Haircut Tutorial - Wavy Hair With Layers

Hey guys Steven a Salonga here and today, I've got a really cool tutorial for you guys, I've been getting loads and loads of requests for this over the last several months. This isn't a celebrity haircut, but this is great for everyone who is either in the professional salon, environment or you're. Cutting in here yourselves, good luck with that one if you do, but this is how to cut layer, long layers on curly or wavy hair. So I've got this really cool mannequin from her art products. Calm named Gabriella and the mannequin has naturally kind of wavy hair. So I'm going to show you guys how to achieve long layers on wavy or curly hair, alright guys. So I'm going to do this kind of step-by-step because I've been getting a lot of requests from people that like when I do these types of tutorials, that everything is kind of step-by-step. So you can follow along with me. So I'm going to do that for you guys, so what you want to first do is make sure you've got. You know, depending on where you going to wear this or where the client or whoever is going to wear this hair, just want to make sure that you know you have a good idea and a good structure and plan in mind of you know how long you Want this, where you want the layers to be, and all that good stuff, so what I would like you guys to do right now is just comb make sure the hair is thoroughly comb through all right and I'm using a hair cutting comb for this. You can use a brush to get through it, whatever you want, it's totally up to you, alright, but what I'm doing basically now is I'm setting up myself for success by sectioning. The hair, alright and every hair type is different. Some people obviously you're, going to have a lot a lot of hair. It'S going to be, you know some fine texture, some thick textured, some really really curly. You know some, not so curly. So you know, I know everybody's got a mix, but this haircut literally will work on whether the hair is curlier than this, but definitely it is good for wavy hair. So what I did is, I went, you know pretty much down the middle and then I created a section right in the top area at the top of a head like this. Alright and that's the division point which separates the front and the back just like that, and that goes the top. Basically, it's right behind the ear so do that and if you need to pause the video go ahead to follow along, but basically I'm just going to keep this because this is going to be a little bit longer video. But it's give me a lot more in depth to really help you guys, okay, so the first thing I want to do - and I have this zoomed out quite a bit, so you can see what's going on here. The first thing I want to do is I'm going to cut my length in through here alright - and you know, obviously I'm using this on a mannequin stand, so I'm just going to raise a stand up a little bit like this, but on this is what you Want to have you want to have basically yourself ready to go. If you need to section this, if the hair is really really really thick, then you can take this and section it like this, and you know cut it in half like this. So it's not too much hair alright. So that is a good way to start to make sure everything is going to be pretty even in balance, so just take a section and then clip it off the rest of the hair, just clip it. On top like that, and again I got these clips from here. Our products calm as well. You can get all sorts of tools from here our products wire. That'S why I love them. You can just go to their site. You can call uptown the salon guy sent you and they'll definitely take care of you guys. So now, let's establish our length all right, it's totally up to you, but I want to cut this to where I'd say it's about right here and will fall probably just about to the middle of the back. I'D say: maybe not that far down, but but you know not up those shoulders, but about right here you can see that's the length all right then take your next section, bring it all down, and you can pretty much see your guide right underneath I'm using the Fine teeth of the comb just because I want you know I want to be pretty solid on this right now, and the baseline always looks better when it's a little more solid, alright, especially with curly hair. I think our wavy hair it's good to have a good, solid, baseline and then the texture comes from obviously the curls okay, so I'm basically going into the corner here, as you can see it or holding everything straight down like this. Alright, now that's done. Go back to the center, which is where your guy is going to be and then again cutting it straight across or cutting it blunt alright - and this will pretty much finish our last section here throughout the back. Alright, so there we have it that's our length in the back right through here now what I want to do since we're working on the length I want to get all the lengths out of the way I wanted to set this up. So I know you know how how much more I need to cut we're going to start the layers and all that good stuff. So here you know and again, if you need to pause the video pause, the video, but you should be following along quickly pretty pretty easily and pretty quickly on this. So here we are the sides. Alright, the sides makes you take your guide from the back and now we're going to cut straight across working towards the front of the head and towards the face now at this point right here. Alright, this is where you need to start realizing and thinking. Where am I going to take this? Alright, as you can see, here's the side of the head right here? What you want to do at this point, okay, is now is where you start you're angling. This is where the where you're setting yourself up, where you know where the layering and everything is going to fall. If you do it right here now again we're going to keep somewhat longer layers. Okay, so we're not going to go too too short, but you do have to angle this up a little bit because it's always better to have a nice face frame throughout the front, even if the layers are going to be a little bit longer, especially on curly Or wavy hair, so, as you can see what this is done already is this is created already a nice shape. I mean you can just create a create a face frame like that and then basically that's it I mean. Sometimes you don't even need to go too crazy with this, but here's where the front layer is right here in the front and as you can see, it works all the way down this way, all right. So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue this on this side of the head? So again, if you need to pause, it go for it, but I'm going to try to keep this moving. So now I am on the opposite side of the head. Alright, I'm again taking my guide from the back section that I cut in the back and now I'm working forward this way towards the face, basically cutting it blunt and now again here we are, we have to work towards the front alright. So now I'm going to angle, my fingertips are pointing this way when you're, wherever your fingertips point, that's we're going to cut you. So if we're pointing like this, it's going to be straight if they're up this way, it's going to angle upwards, okay, so there's my fingertips there. If I want to cut and I'm going to work this upwards towards the front of the of the face here, alright again now there's this is interesting because you know, if you're not too experienced with this you're like hey. How do I know if it's even or not? How do I know you know, what's going on and hey I'm not perfect, and sometimes things are a little bit off so a little trick right in through here, I'm just going to zoom in a little bit. This way and is to take the hair like this, bring it straight forward this way, okay and take pretty much the same section on on both sides of the head and we're going to do is just comb it straight down like this. All right now, look see. Look at this: this is where this is how much we're off a little bit over here. So what we're going to do is now we're going to just cut that straight across, like that. Alright, now we'll bring this section over okay, and then that means that we had some more hair to cut okay and that's fine, not everything is going to be perfectly balanced on the first shot, but now look what we've done now: we've evened it all out. Okay, so the best way to do that is to take both pieces like this, bring them together and if it's too long, then you simply just have to cut it all right. There you go now. Look. This part is little bit too long here on this side. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to cut it, and this is definitely important when it comes to balance. All right balance is key with this, especially with curly, hair or wavy hair. You want to make sure everything is even so just bring this towards you and then everything else will kind of start to fall into place. Alright, there you can go, you can cross u-w check it like this, make sure you're completely even all around alright and then gee. I think I must be I'm just I've had too many drink because I'm a little off on this side. Okay, I'm kidding I'm kidding, but I'm just going to clean this up here and then we are pretty much now finished with the length all right. Now again, you could actually leave this. You can leave this as the haircut itself. I mean you created a nice soft. You know longer kind of face frame right into the front. All right, you can leave it just like this. If you wanted to you know, I mean, but we're going to do layering you're, going to focus on the layering now all right. So now we're ready to start layering we're in the back of the head and what we're going to do we're going to go right to the top back of the head, and this is going to be our first section alright. So what you want to do is take a section straight across in the back of the head, all right straight across okay. Now what we're going to do so, you can see like this. Okay, we're going to comb it straight up from the head now again, since we're doing longer layers. We want to keep this a little bit longer. Obviously, if you cut the hair to here, or it's not long layers, okay longer layers means basically that the hair, the layers fall down towards about towards the bottom. Okay, it means they're, not too short, they're, not really medium, but they're a little bit longer a little bit safer. So let's cut the hair to where it's about this length. Alright, and it's really hard to kind of measure. This um, you know I'd, say like maybe who knows a here's, the comb right here. I think this is called about six units of inches or so seven. So I'd say about maybe you know ten to two inches to 12 inches on the top of the head. Like this, alright, that is your guide. This here is your guide. Okay, now what you're going to do - and this is this - is I'm going to spin the head around a little bit this way, so you can see, because this is really really really crucial. Now, what you're going to do is you're going to split the head down? The middle like this in the back alright and we're going to go and we're going to now start layering. The back and the way I like to do this to keep consistent and to keep even alright is, as you can see, I got this section now. I'M combing it straight up from the head like this all right straight up from head. This is the back of the head, pulling it straight up like this. Looking for my guide, which is right there all right and then I'm cutting straight across everything is held straight up, I'm cutting straight across. What that's going to do is that is going to keep everything consistent, all right throughout the layering from here to here. Okay, I'm just going to bring the camera down a little bit, so you can see better. So we've got this section here, layered now, we've got all this depending on the thickness of the hair. You could probably take one more section down in through here and then comb it straight up. It'S totally up to you, but I would only do I'd say one section like that and see it's already starting to blend anyway. But now from this point on, what you need to do is connect that in through the base line, if you layer too much you're going to create a really fine base line, you don't want to do that. But now what we're going to do is we're going to comb the hair straight out. There'S the part that we cut right there from when we hold it up and then you'll be able to see on the bottom and that's what you're cutting you're simply just connecting connecting that's it you're not cutting too too much off you're just connecting this, so that It has a smooth flow in through the bottom of the head, so I'm just going to finish working this way, and hopefully you guys are following along we're doing this panel by panel. Obviously, as you can see, if you need to go back at any time, you definitely can go back uh and you know and try to catch up or or go back over any areas that you might be kind of lost on. But what I'm doing, as you saw here in this side, I'm pushing away this way. I'M combing straight back this way, because I don't want to create any sort of thin areas into here that helps leave a little bit of weight into the corners all right. So this side is finished now we have to do the other side alright. So what we're going to do is the same exact thing: we're going to comb this. You get a nice clean section, all right there we go take a nice horizontal line, and this is your. This is your section right here, I'm using the white teeth, because this is where it's okay, to have the layers a little bit more softer. Okay and the white teeth allows for that: it's not so it's not so stiff or so tight as far as the comb goes and the tension. So we'll do one more section right in through here: pull it straight up from the head, all right and cut it straight across and there you go now. If you want to see how you are as far as the balanced comb, both sides. Alright, both sides straight up like this and everything should be relatively on point and well balanced, all right. So now, let's do this now: let's do this side, the back comb it straight out. Alright get this out of the way you don't want to cut this anymore, because you already cut that alright. So here we go now we're ready to work in through the bottom here and we're going to continue to work all the way down panel by panel on the back of the head all right. What we're doing again is we're just connecting we're connecting and we're blending everything in all right now we're coming towards the center alright towards the center, because you want to keep that weight in through the corners here. You don't want to make it too wispy or anything on the bottom right. You want to make sure you leave that way throughout the bottom and here, and this will help do that so you're pulling it back towards you, okay. Now, at this point, everything should be blended in through the bottom here like this. As you can see, it's got a beautiful shape to it. Alright, if you need to double check on the very very bottom, to make sure it's all blended, then you do the same exact thing. All right go all the way down to the very bottom start in the very, very middle and blend it all in and connect it all right, don't cut too low. Do not cut your base line because you will create holes in it all right. So just continue following this way. It'S like it's like a nice pattern. Alright, again, you want to set yourself up for success here. You want to make sure that everything is well-balanced. Everything is on point. Everything has a great flow to it, because at the end of the day you know this is going to be worn by somebody. You know, and you want to make sure that the more the more you put into a haircut the more it's going to show. Okay, so I'm just going to continue on this side, go all the way to the very very bottom of the head, and there might be a couple little pieces that you might need to cut all right. But hopefully you guys are following along. If you need again to pause it go ahead and pause it, and then you can pick up so now the back is complete. All right, the back is completely done. Has a cedar full shape some nice long layers remember this is your shortest layer. So, wherever you cut this, it folds about right here, you know so now we're done with the back and now we're going to work on the top all right. So now we ready to work on the top. Here. Is our guide right here? Alright, this is what the piece that we cut from before. What we're going to do is we're going to go right down the middle and we are going to take a new section, alright again right down the middle and we're going to connect and now we're going to cut the layers in the back and now we're going To blend them in through the front okay, so every section now should be should be basically going from here to here, okay and we're going to do a panel by panel pulling the hair straight up. Let the corners fall out right here, comb, it straight up. There'S the guide from underneath right there and cut straight across okay we're going to follow this pattern throughout the whole top of the head. Alright, here's our next section and then next section right in front of it. Alright! So now what we're going to do is we're going to take part of our last section that we just cut, and you can do that by just sliding right across like that. Let this let the corners fall out from your comb, and now we can cut straight across there's a guide again and, as you get towards the front, there's going to be less and less hair that you're going to be cutting alright, because um we've already established the Front the face frame: okay, let's go right to the front now and there you go split that down till it's more of a defined area. Maybe take a little bit more this way and now we're going to cut this basically straight across alright again, there might not be any hair to cut because we already established this face ram all right. There see it is not much now to check to make sure you are in good balance, and everything is okay, the top of the head. What you want to do is you want to turn the head this way and we're going to cut short to long we're just going to blend this in alright we're going to angle our elbow up towards the ceiling there really nothing to come off, but if there Is anything this is where you cut it this will. This will let you know if you're in good shape and if everything is balanced. Okay, you can do that throughout the whole top here, just a very, very top just to make sure everything is balanced and has a nice flow to it. Okay, just go right in through the top that you just cut, don't go too far into the corners at all, because again you didn't cut that just go right here in the area, that's directly where you just cut all right and then do it. On the other side as well, everything should be pretty much even and balanced at this point, so you should be in really really good shape. All right. They don't don't feel like. Oh I'm going over this too much or this is taking me too long. Trust me, this will show in the end, and it will it'll help with an amazing result at the end, when the haircuts finished all right, so now we're ready to work into the corners here. Okay, now, what we're going to do is we're going to start in the back area and we're going to comb everything basically straight out from the head. This way, there's the corner right there, I'm going to cut that straight across now we're going to all the way through the bottom, and there should not really be anything that needs to be cut all right. If there is then just skim it let the bottom fall out. The hair fall out on the bottom, which is the which is the actually length, and you don't want to cut that all right. Moving on to our next section, you're, taking a piece from your previous section, alright, we're just rounding that out go all the way down, which should be right around the ear area and there's probably just a little little bit. That needs to be cut next section again. Now we're working towards the face now we're just going to round that out and then again right down to the very bottom. Just a little bit needs to come off and, of course, the very very front here. Just pull this back towards you want to over direct this back. Alright cuz! You don't want to make it too fine or wispy in the front over dreck back, and you should be good to go. Okay now, the other side. This is done. This whole side is done right here now: okay, now we're going to work on the opposite side. So what you can do is you can actually change body position and now the clients face is facing you. Alright, if you're doing this yourself on yourself again, I hate to say, go to a professional for advanced stuff like this. But what you want to do is the same exact thing on the opposite side. But now what I'm doing is I just change my body position. So there's a corner needs to be cut and I'm just cutting it off. Now, I'm working again in towards the bottom section and there's just a little little bit that needs to come off. Alright, if you're cutting too much a lot of hair than something went wrong somewhere, okay, you should not be cutting a whole lot of hair unless you're going super super. Like you know your hair down to your knees, you know, but you should not be cutting a lot of hair. Alright, I'm just finishing this up here, there's the bottom part and then my last section is right, the very very front again: I'm combing us a little bit away. The buns work, I'm coming towards the back of the head, just over directing a little and pushing away. So I leave and maintain that that weight and that length in the front, so the haircut believe it or not folks, is actually finished all right. What you want to do now is I like to just go in like this and check for balance and just pull everything out with your hands right out with your hands like this and just run your fingers to it. The best way to check haircuts guys is to run your fingers through it and if you feel anything that feels off, then that means you need to go back in. But if you follow this in my instructions - and you you know, can follow along and in cut everything how I suggested you will have a beautiful long, layered haircut for curly or even wavy hair. This works on hair, that's actually curlier than this um, and this is a great haircut in general, but what this will do now is, as you can see here. Alright, I'm just going to. I have the zoomed in a little bit. What'S going to happen is, as you can see there, this has a beautiful and this manikin actually already has naturally kind of wavy curly hair. Alright, there you go it has it brings out the wave, it brings out the cruel and it's gorgeous. Now. As far as styling goes um, you can treat this a few different ways. Okay, I'd say the best way to treat this is probably by putting some sort of curl cream or something in it. Um, you might want to diffuse a diffuser, you don't want to or you can let it air dry put it put cream in and let it air dry that's the best way with curly hair. Sometimes so you don't want to ruin the curl. The last thing you want to do is to comb it through. You want to really really preserve all the curl that you possibly can, but so what you do is put some product in it and let it just sit there. If you can, let it air dry, then let it air dry that will work out the best and have one have really any frizz, because you're not really messing with the hair texture. If you were to blow dry it, I would say, use a diffuser and don't use too many. You know too much of your hands will just let the the diffuser kind of do everything. So I'm just going to put some product in it and then we'll pretty much be finished. So I'm just taking a hair cream like this lacy looks like a conditioner, and what I'm going to do is I'm just raking this through very, very gently all right and I'm actually scrunching this. While I apply it all right - and you just want to really scrunch and be very, very uh thorough with this all right and as you scrunch this in you want to really what it's going to do is get really going to enhance the curl, and you do That by simply just kind of lifting and squeezing this way, you know squeezing up that rouille enhances it all right, even through the top here, just really really squeeze and work that product in all right and that's going to give you a beautiful curl with really really Beautiful long layers, so I'm just going to let this air dry and I think it's a beautiful shape. I just really wanted you guys to to see the haircut, but I had a lot of fun doing this. Please guys, like the video you guys have been doing amazing with the likes of rumens a lot to me. I love the comments. Please subscribe, because if you subscribe, I can respond back to you. You know and hey if you like this video share it, and I hope this has helped you guys. So thanks so much for watching and I'll see you all next time, with more tutorials from the salon dye, you