Authentic Civil War Hairstyle
- Posted on 03 September, 2014
- Hair Styling
- By Anonymous
Janet Stephens’ easy tutorial to recreate a woman’s hairstyle worn during the American Civil War (early 1860’s). Learn how to use two-legged curl papers and a back comb. Based on a portrait statue of Ellen Walters, wife of William T. Walters, Baltimore, Maryland.
Ellen Walters, wife of the wealthy Baltimore entrepreneur, William T Walters, is depicted in her marble portrait wearing a typical hairstyle at the early 1860s. Her hair is arranged in a bun at the nape, with curled hair draping over the ears. Mrs. Walters hairstyle features a simple lace headdress in the first half of the 19th century. It was common for married women to cover their back hair with a piece of lace or a small cap. During the day, reenactors may easily find suitable vintage lace for this purpose. At thrift stores period, appropriate tools for Ellen's hairstyle include heavy-duty 3-inch wire. You pins a long back, comb of boar, bristle brush and a comb of wood or horn for safety. I will use a modern electric curling iron. I will use two-legged curl papers to help mind the curling iron ringlets, two-legged curl papers first appear indeed arose encyclopedia and were used to both shape and to preserve curls in the hair divide, the hair from side to side with a center parting, depending on the thickness Of the hair create a two to three inch deep vertical parting, all along the hairline comb, the back hair toward the nape gently twist, the hair into a bun secure the bun, with several you pins, leaving the top edge of the bun free from pins. Oh, you you to curl the front hair into ringlets, divide each side section in to hold the Strand low curl, the hair upward into a ringlets almost to the ends. You want two ringlets on each side of the head to prevent the hot ringlet from relaxing wrap. It around one leg of a curl paper, then twist the two legs of the curl paper together to secure it. You you you once the ringlets have all cooled: remove the curl papers either by unfolding them. If you wish to reuse them or by tearing the joint. If you plan to throw them away loosely swag the ringlets over the ears and wind the ends around the base of the bun. Oh you to insert the backcomb hold the teeth perpendicular to the edge of the bun. With a concave side, upward gently push the teeth toward the head and with a swiveling motion, push the comb in so that it lies snug and parallel to the scalp Center. The lace headdress over the bun, secure it with to you pins fold, the edge back to give the headdress a double flounce and the style is complete. Ellen Walters was known for her charming personality and genial manner, while she and her family waited out. The war in England Ellen died of pneumonia contracted during a visit to the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, London, her and her husband's love of art collecting helped inspire their son. Henry to found the Walters Art Museum, you
Comments
Cyla McKaine: I love these videos. History does not like to care about the little daily details like hair; gives a good persective in the daily life of a person. My question is if modern curling irons had not been invented at this time what did they use to curl their hair, a heated tapered iron rod or something like that?
michelle stein-evers frankl: I've always wondered about a style mentioned in gone With the Wind that vexed Scarlett. It was called the "Cat, the Rat and the mice" supposedly it consisted of three buns, in graduated size, along the back of the head. have you ever seen it? It was supposed to have come out of Godey's Ladies Book.
Rebecca (eezepeeze): These are some of my favorite videos. I love the history portrayed. I was so happy to see something from this time period, as well. I hope you will do more 18th and 19th century styles
Katie Sabo: Love your work, Janet, and I share it with my students in my Fashion History classes! Would it be possible for you to do a tutorial on late 1910s hairstyles [specifically 1916-1919]? I have always been curious how women managed to have the soft folds over the ears AND the swoop of hair over the forehead... was it with false hair? Or was a special haircut required?
Jennifer Smith: The marble portrait of her showed the curls going the opposite way(inwards), didn't it? Love this! Tnx!!
JJJLongHair4u2c: So interesting and pretty! Thank you for all of your time and efforts in re-creating this style.Love to hear and see this history of hairstyles, especially buns.
beth12svist: Thank you so much for making and sharing these videos. They are by far the best hairdressing videos on YouTube - informative, clear to follow, and historical to boot! I wish you good luck in your further endeavours.
Minarette100: This is really beautiful, and I think it's a hairstyle that still can be worn today (perhaps without the lace). Thank you for explaining the style, I think, Iwill try it on my own. It's still a beautiful hairstyle for a visit at the opera or the theatre.
Sofía Rosero: Thank you for sharing---I love Victorian hairstyles! Although between Victorian and Edwardian hairstyles I would choose Edwardian, they are often so beautifully inspired in ancient Roman hairstyles...
ladollyvita333: Curl Paper! So amazing. All these little things women used and did to style their hair, and they're still relevant in modern hairdressing. I really enjoyed this!
Elizabeth Unger: I love the detail about the Walters Museum. It’s one of my favorites to visit.
twominutetips: Wonderful - thank you so much. I really enjoy your well researched presentations.
Heather Sheen: As a Civil War reenactor and researcher, I love this video! Recreating the hairstyles of the time is so fun! The only caution I would add is that the lace caps of the time period cannot be properly recreated with doilies. The style of lace doily you find in most antique stores is completely wrong for the period (as is the doily in the video). Even the simplest of lace caps in the 1860s were marvels of construction when you examine them, not simple doilies. But of course, if you're just having fun with a new hairstyle, a doily is fine. :)
Kate W: Would this hairstyle be similar in Europe or did they have a different style there? Also, would this look better on straightened hair or would curly hair work fine? I absolutely adore your videos and am so appreciative of all the time you spend researching for these looks!
calenlass: I've been doing a similar style for years, but my hair is naturally curly, so I can do a sort of cold pin-curl with the front curls and it looks more or less the same.
Amanda Harvey: I have extremely naturally curly hair with a strong natural side part and a cowlick that prevents effective center parting. I've always wondered what a woman with hair like mine would have done during a period when smooth or center-parted hair was the standard-- tried to do so and looked stupid, or eschewed fashion entirely? Medieval fashions with long, bound braids, Civil War Era, and Edwardian era styles tend to be particularly difficult for me to achieve. Any tips on what a woman with hair like mine might have done?
keyholes: Oh I love this one, I'll have to try this, thank you!
DocFrobnitz: The Civil War was a century and a half ago... women in Utah had this hairstyle in the 1990s. (They might still, but I haven't seen this with my own eyes since I moved away in the 90s.) I'd rarely see a cloth headdress in the cities, but they were the height of fashion in the small farming towns. (One of the videos on the side of the screen shows "Womens fashion from the 1860's"... the picture could have been taken on any Sunday when I was a kid in Utah. Friends often joked that we were a hundred years out of touch with the rest of the country, but after watching these videos it was clearly closer to 150 years.)
Robbin Lynn Spencer-Buchtel: May I inquire as to where one might get two-legged curl papers or what the L x W would be for creating my own? Thank you so much for doing this tutorial.
Kay Eff: This is my absolute FAVORITE video so far! Don't get me wrong, I absolutely adore all of your videos, but this has by far been the one I like the best. (Of course, I'm the daughter of a Civil War buff, so...)
Jan Franklin: Fascinating as always.
Jo Mercer, LMT: Two-legged curl paper--I've never seen that before!
Fiona P: Just wondering. Was the lace worn for beautification purposes as fascinators are or was it worn for modesty purposes? To cover up the exposed back of the neck. Or was it for both reasons?☮️
Maxine Phoenix: Good Stuff. Recently took my son to the Donkey Convention in Downtown Vancouver and was inspired to braid hair in the olden style there. Very Good stuff.
Melanie W: Is there any information on how to style the smooth over the ears style of the 1860s? I am thinking of the way Olivia de Haviland had hers styled as Melanie in Gone With the Wind. That style is seen in many old photos, but I have no idea how they achieved that shape.
5hallsLYKKK: Very pretty!
Heather H: Wow, that's a LOT of work!!!
Scarlet Letter: Much prettier than in the old photos
Janet Stephens: Dear Kate W, Thanks for the question. American women usually followed Europe's lead on all things fashionable, but older women tended to be a bit more conservative in general. For other great hairstyles, consult 19th c. Harpers Bazar online, Hearth Collection, Cornell University. cheers! J
Estelle Champagne: Magnifique !
jenacorn: I find that U pins always pop out of my hair pretty quickly. Do you have any suggestions for working with U style hair pins?
SandyzSerious: Excellent.
susanht67: They also often rag tied different section before bed to use in the morning.
Giovi Londos: thank you amazing video
Watch Servant: Wish I could go back to this time for a day
patrIcia malone: I love these hairstyles but my hair would fall out ten times bending over to tend the fire and pick up the baby...ha. I wonder if they used starch or egg whites to stiffen the hair or such. Hummmmm
saffron fields: All that work to make a nice bun and curls just to cover it up with a doily. ♀️
Janet Stephens: Michelle Stein-Evers Frankel asked about the "Cats Rats and Mice" style from the book Gone with the Wind. I checked Godey's online at archive.org/stream/godeysladiesbook00phil#page but can't find it. If somebody else can, i'll be glad to try it out. cheers, J
TheVineRhyme: Interesting channel.
PAULO BOCCATO: Elegance
andré rasemont: Dis donc, c'est chez toi cette déco???? Hotel particulier, château? Quoi donc? Ces lieux sont l'image de ton bon gout, il n'y qu'à voir tes beaux et longs cheveux, ton adorable visage, chez toi tout est beau. Image sans doute de ta chambre, cheminée, lit à baldaquin, et je ne vois pas tout. Il y a un moment que je te "chasse" pour t'admirer, je te trouve si jolie, mille fois bravo..... Merci Je te recommande de fuir le coiffeur -tondeur-teinturier, et surtout le plus grave le tatoueur prédateur destructeur irréversible de ta beauté, Le fréquenter serait fort dommage.
kocis8000: Coiffure called "Cats, Rats and Mice". Read on Gone with the wind.
andrea marchi: The technique and direction of the curls are both wrong....