Flavian-Trajanic Hairstyle: Orbis Comarum
- Posted on 01 October, 2012
- Hair Styling
- By Anonymous
Janet Stephens' tutorial for recreating the "orbis comarum" ("circle of hair") coiffure, the most popular Roman hairstyle of the late 1st century AD. Techniques include rag curling, and hairpiece construction. With essential bibliography.
Background Music ("Orbe Comarum", ISRC QM-UDL-12-00013) created by Janet Stephens, jntvstp, using Apple Garageband.
The Orbis, kumara or circle of hair coiffure was the most popular hairstyle of late first century AD tall fluffy front hair was balanced by a braided and loop ponytail or a large wreath bonnet. The back of the head. Many Roman women had tight natural curl, which made the front hair easy to arrange. All they needed to do was to cut their front hair into a mullet shape, while leaving the back hair long women with naturally straight hair, had to curl it either with a hot calamus trim, curling iron, as attested in literary sources or perhaps with rag curls using Felt fabric, as I suggest here for stability, the hair could be back combed and loosely stitched with needle and thread crucial reinforcement in the days before hairspray. The back hair was more problematic. Extreme length and density was essential for the refund, but not everyone naturally possesses such length and density. Although male poets and moralists disapproved Roman women frequently resorted to wigs and hair pieces when their natural hair proved insufficient. Close examination of Orbis, kumar and portraits indicates that most could have been arranged from the sitter's natural hair. The occasional false bun may be detected in this tutorial. Our model's short hair and fringe will be transformed to that of a fashionable Flavian lady by careful rag setting on felt arrangement and the addition of a false wreath bun, although wet curling is not attested in literary sources. The facts of daily life in Rome made it a viable alternative to the weaker calamus trim. Curl, the Romans loved to bathe many even bathe daily. They would have been familiar with the effects of water evaporation for changing the shape of hair. Also, the Romans were creatures of daylight. The hair could be set at bedtime and dry by morning. Rag curling procedure wet the front hair and wind it around strips of felt, which have been cut to a size appropriate for the desire to curl diameter. These strips were cut to approximately two inches by nine inches or 5 centimeters by 23 centimeters. As you can see, the curl is secured by tying the ends of the felt across the base of the curl alternating. The direction of the curls causes the hair to be fluffier. Once it is combed out, you will only curl the front portion of the head from ear to ear. Allow the hair to dry overnight in the morning the following period. Appropriate tools would be used to dress the hair hair Bodkins for parting combs, for smoothing and teasing needle and thread for stitching the hair in place and leaf spring scissors to cut excess thread. After removing the rag curls from the front hair divide the back hair into many small braids using the hair bodkin and the comb with needle and thread bind the end of each braid. So it can't unravel twist. The braid ends together and stitch the entire mass low on the nape so that the ends of the braids are concealed stitch thoroughly. A firm foundation is necessary for the false bun to stay in place, creating a false brief, bun anachronism alert. Most of ancient wig making technique is lost to human memory, but from literary sources and artifact sample analysis. It is believed they variously used. Human and animal hair. Leathers and hides grasses, animal and plant resin, glues and beeswax as materials. The following section intentionally uses modern synthetic materials and tools and means only to invoke the spirit and contour of ancient hair pieces. Separate a strand of hair and tie a knot at the center of the strand. This will give you an anchor for subsequent work. Combine the ends of the hair below the knot, divide, this hair into three strands and braid the false hair all the way to its tips. Synthetic hair tangles easily so be gentle with it after braiding to the end of the strand, bind the end with needle and thread to keep it from unraveling. Repeat this process on as many strands of synthetic hair as you desire, you may wish to choose synthetic hair that matches the natural color of your own hair or blend different colors to create an effect once all the braids are finished set aside, one of them with The needle and thread string, the other braids together through their knotted ends, then bind them together securely once the knotted ends are bound together, smooth out the braids and decide how wide you want. The finished wreath bun to be at that mark bind the braids tightly together with needle and thread once all is secure, cut the thread to release the needle then carefully cut off the excess braid ends Stitch. The butt ends together to form a ring. We will finish the wreath bun by using the reserved braid to conceal the join stitch. The knot end of the reserved braid to the underside of the join then wrap it tightly around the join twice and stitch it in place. Wrap the remaining length of the reserved braid loosely around the wreath circle then stitch. The end of this braid under the join point be sure to stitch securely once all is secure, clip off the excess thread and your hairpiece is complete. The key to a natural-looking hairpiece is to match, as well as possible the texture density and color of the natural hair. It will be worn with attaching the hairpiece using a blunt needle and thread stitch, the wreath bun to the back of the hair place it so that it aligns well with the natural braids concealing their ends, use thread that matches the color of the hair stitch until All is secured dressing. The Orbis Kamara volume comb, the previously curled hair comb, the hair thoroughly and break it up. So you get maximum explosion of curl for extra height backcomb to strengthen the shape. There was no hairspray before the 20th century, so this hair will be fragile unless it is reinforced by internal stitching with needle and thread tie a slipknot in the end of a thread attach the thread to the hair by passing the needle through the loop of the Slipknot using a twirling motion with the blunt needle loosely stitch, the hair internally, so that the stitches do not show this will stabilize and refine the shape use this technique to stabilize the entire form. The continuity of the thread gives the Orbis camarón internal strength, check your work visually for balance, that's the end lightly and carefully backcomb again, if necessary, a light touch is essential. The style is now complete.
Comments
Janet Stephens: Rag curls are a suggestion of mine, they are not attested in ancient sources, but I believe them to be a viable alternative to heat or reliance on natural curl, only. For "provable" period accuracy (of particular interest to period reenactors), you would use a calamistrum curling iron heated over flame or in hot ashes. Benders and sponge rollers will do a nice job if you don't need period accuracy. Have fun!
Bailey DeVoe: I remember seeing female roman busts and being amazed at the styles, by god how was that possible! Thank you for doing the work and showing us how!
Janet Stephens: Woolen felt was a staple fabric in ancient Rome and my goal is to use period appropriate tools wherever possible. However, I do like felt because it is easy to work with, doesn't unravel (leaving strings behind in the hair), it grips well when tied and is bulkier than many woven fabrics (you use less and get cleaner curl on the tips of the hair). You may, of course, experiment with any fabric you choose: it's your hair! cheers, J
crazydougfam: It looks so historically correct it's eerie how real it looks!!
Janet Stephens: Thanks! In my videos I try to use only the tools and materials that the Romans themselves may have used,but if I can't be sure, like on the hair pieces, I will dispense "anachronism alerts" accordingly. If you don't care about strict "re-enactment", you should absolutely use whatever tools you feel most comfortable with to get the effects. cheers! J
Rebecca (eezepeeze): Interesting, as always. I also would love to see how to do this on quite long hair. I always enjoy these videos.
Maribel Navarro: Hi! love your channel! I was wondering: do you think they might have boiled flax seed and used the juice/gel to make tighter/more defined curls that also stayed? My mother used to use that to make my ringlets stay hight, tight and bouncy when I had very long hair as a child.
darkangelfinn9: A professor in one of my college courses sent my class the link for the video. This completely blew my mind. This is so amazingly awesome!
emperorofpluto: Bravo! This is what springs to mind when I think of Imperial Roman hairdressing and have always wondered how on earth these ladies achieved such a dramatic look. Unfortunately - at least according to some contemporary poets - many of the most ravishing beauties of Imperial Rome had "black, rotting teeth" or (no teeth at all) and foul breath, as someone famously wrote about a certain Claudia, although apparently deliberately blackening one's teeth was even fashionable at one time. Anyhow even though I'm no hairdresser I find it fascinating to see how such a style might be replicated. Kudos.
micro-babe: I'm so glad this exists. Flavian fashion was CRAZY.
D'ara Grace: It had never crossed my mind that sewing was involved in the ancient hairstyles, but it now makes so much sense. It actually, now, seems rather obvious. Lol. Thank you.
S. Collins: Wonderful resource. Thank you so much for making this! (Also, I loved the subtle livestock sound effects in the background of the soundtrack.) :)
Anna Ferrara: I love your model's sudden sassiness, it made me laugh. :) I love these series of videos! Thanks so much for your tireless research and work!
eme foulquie: Oh, I see. I was wondering because I use the rag curling technique very often in my own hair. Congratulations on your videos, by the way. The new ones with the models are amazing. I'm enjoying them very much.
J. Wa.: I'm really curious about how stitching compares to modern hair spray in terms of endurance and stability of hair style.
twominutetips: Beautifully detailed. Love ALL your videos and these ancient ways of hairstyling. Thank you.
Janet Stephens: The frame hypothesis has been floating around for decades, but, so far, it is not supported by the artifact record or by primary sources. While not impossible, I doubt that frames were used in the natural hair, but they may have been necessary in some hair pieces. The true difficulty is in distinguishing between real hair and artificial hair in sculptural contexts. cheers, J
LBCiddio: I love this!!! I've always loved busts of women with those amazing Flavian hairstyles; now I know how they work!
Gineen Cooper: such a stunningly beautiful hairdo!! it was amazing to see ancient art brought to life. i'm recalling the average boring hairdos of today, how they pale in comparison to the wonders of the past.
Tali: I love these videos, everything about them. But I just can’t get over the fact that the women maybe cut their hair into mullets for ~fashion~. History is wild and that’s why I love it
KateandBree: Yes, I use this technique when I have time on my hands during the day and have a fancy place to be in the evening, but want nice, flowing curls. My hair is layered, but my longest layers are midlength (ending at the bottom of my bra) and the shortest end at my shoulder. This is the only way, aside from pin curling, that my hair holds curl. The difference between pin curls and these curls is that I find these curls are more flowing and "s-shaped." Pin curls look like Shirley Temple curls to me!
Janet Stephens: They probably did, especially as the trend was just beginning (middle first Century). I'm sure many roman women were reluctant, at first, to cut off their front hair for what may, at the time have seemed a "fad". After the style was established, hair cutting would have made the style easy and inexpensive. Near the end of the fashion, many of the most elaborate and mannered examples (e.g., Marciana and Matidia) were probably hair pieces. cheers, J
Janet Stephens: I got it from a midwestern needlework catalog called "Nordic Needle". You can find them on-line. cheers, J
Janet Stephens: Sorry about the slow response! The model's hair was clean ( in the modern sense). Roman's bathed frequently, but we don't know for a fact what they used to wash their hair, or how often. They may have used egg yolks, struthium (soapwort root extract) and/or "ash water" or other unknown concoctions. To remove stitching, stretch the hairstyle to find threads, then clip and stretch again until all the fragments are removed. Be careful not to cut your natural hair in the process! cheers, J
Louise Anne Bateman: Another interesting and entertaining video, Janet! I'm guessing that with all that thread, this is not a hairstyle that would be worn on a day-to-day basis. Could it be worn for several consecutive days? Apparently Geishas redid their hair once a week. Would love to see it done on someone with naturally long hair, to see how the back wreath could be created.
ChrisSunHwa: So neat! :D This style really suits your lovely model! <3
Lucie Melahn: Fantastic demonstration. Do you have any indication of how long the hairstyle would last? It looks like so much effort, but maybe that is because of my modern eyes. It looks as if the braided bun would last quite a long time, maybe even a few weeks. Could the front have been recurled while the back was left in place?
SimderZ: I always wonder how difficult it was to remove all that stitching. Im guessing its hellish. I have very long hair, i can imagine the tangley aftermath
Janet Stephens: Yes, the front could be restyled, while the back was left in braids. Also, if the wearer slept on her back, the hair would be even less disturbed from day to day. Cheers, J
Rene Jean: So interesting! While at the Roman Baths in Bath, England a couple of years ago we were treated to several ladies strolling around in lovely period Roman garb. But the poorly done "period" wigs were very distracting and disappointing. I wish these ladies had heard of Janet Stephen! I am an American Civil War reenactor. To your knowledge is there evidence that ladies' hairstyles of that era used needle and thread to secure their coiffures? Hairpins don't always hold as well as I'd like.
6564878iyu: I love stuff like this. Thanks for uploading!
KateandBree: Ah, the days before hairspray....that must have sucked. Thank God for hairspray!!!!!! And mousse. And heat protectant! Heaven knows how fried those ladies hair were after the curling tongs! Beautiful and wonderful tutorial, as always. I love how you tell us when something may not be from that era. It makes me feel smart!
Rachel Stephens: I randomly had a pack of unused synthetic braiding hair lying around. I made the hair piece you show here. It was fairly easy and took me about 90 minutes. I did use a small rubber band to secure all of the loose ends, because I was having a hard time keeping the cut ends together with thread alone, while trying to stitch the two ends together to make the circle. Here's my picture of my finished work: https://www.instagram.com/p/BYecs2XBYJh/ Thanks for the tutorial!
Diekje: Poppaea Sabina (or so is her name written in Flemish) was considered one of the most beautiful women of ancient Rome. but did she have special hairstyles you can show to us? second question: it seems that all your models have wavy or curly hair. weren't their any hairstyles for strait hair? thanks for sharing these amazing videos.
LoisLane11111: Beautiful work, and impressively researched. You mention a lack of hairspray for holding curls in place - (understandably). However, have your come across any mention of hair gel? I know my mother said in the 1940's women used to boil barley and use the gel from that as setting gel. Also, I have a reproduction 1940's hair style booklet that says to make a setting gel from boiling bilberries. At least I think it said bilberries - I can't find the book at the moment! It seems likely Roman era women could have had something similar, but I haven't seen an mention of it in anything I've read.
Sarah Giles: When I got married 10 years ago I took a picture of this style to the hair dresser and said that is what i wanted... She then unfortunately said she had no idea how to do it and we went with a simple bun.
Sanjay Ramcharan: Really like your tutorials!! Really nice to see!
AlanaFounder Ⓥ: Naturally curly hair would have been SUCH an advantage in 1AD
Bernardine L'Ermite: Awesome !!!... And beautiful model too ! :-) Thanks so much for sharing !
Honey Golden: This is fascinating. Thank you! Subbed.
lizzielaaa: Genius to sew the curls at the front in place - no hairspray or else back then, natural sources like flax seed gel or whatever cannot be used with this kind of fluffy hair... I would have never thought about sewing it together :D
Croix de Lorraine 1935: Very, very interesting!! Never knew that women would stitch the hair!! I have also learned so much about the different methods of curling the hair, and the different types of hair gels ( really very cool, for lack of a better word!! ) I've previously known about rag curls because my Maman used to use them as a young girl. I'm growing out my hair, and have a great incentive to keep on growing it to quite long, though not as long as my bottom, however!! I'm definitely subscribing!!✝️⚜️
Delioncourt: You sound like Sigourney Weaver. Which is awesome. I love your channel and have been watching your videos for the past two hours. I love historical beauty techniques and styles.
O.Alden Productions.: I love this needle and thread technique
India Butts: I wish you did more tutorials!!!
Schrödinger’s Kitten: Haha maybe I’ll show this video to my Latin classes! One of the characters in our textbooks has this hairstyle
Kodanikage: This style could totally work in today's society
Noblebird02: I would love to see you do Elizabethan hair.
02sweden: Wow, that is pretty. A bride of today, would really stand out from the rest, wearing this hairstyle.
Mary West: am a new fan. love your work!!! do you have a video about the long hair styles of the 1920's? like those on Dowton Abbey? some of those appear to be loose curling oval shaped buns at the base of the skull. Just wondering how they are done. I feel that the hair styles then and probably with any era where hats were in fashion, were, flat at the back of the head so the hat would fit. even the short hair bobs seem to be flat at the back so they could wear those skull caps. From watching the regency and victorian era shows they seem to be styled so a bonnet could be worn. Do you have an opinion? Thanks.
Hsama The Brazilian Baroness: LOVED IT! And for "hair spray" women could have used a bit of beer as well. ;)
DNA Leguillou: You must have lived during those times. Amazing job
1taffycat: Was the hair clean when you started? I've found a lot of curling hairstyles or braided hairstyles hold better if the hair isn't freshly washed but you talked about how they bathed often - would they have washed their hair each time they bathed? Also, how was it taking this style out? How was it getting the reinforcement stitching out? Thank you so much for your videos, I have learned so much, I try and recreate historical hair too and I am amazed at your innovations and insights.
Janet Stephens: Wow, I'm so late in responding! Yes, that's MY KID! Isn't she fabulous! So smart, and such a good sport! cheers, J
Jamie Pollard: The fact that this channel exists fills me with happiness again and again
JoAnn Abbott: I have very long straight hair- I can create the back with all the braids easily I think, but would they create a false curled front piece, do you think?
Sabrina Tschäß: The music is wonderful! Put me in a good mood. Great video. I love your channel.
andrea marchi: Nice job! Probably they had a piece to increase the hair in the front and something to shape the volume (like a metal cage).
Die Böse Königin: It's beautiful
Kittima: My goodness! What a lot of work!
Janet Stephens: I don't know if they sewed the hair during the civil war, not impossible though. There should be 19th century fashion periodicals (check out the Library of congress website perhaps?) which might be of help. Cheers, J
Jervi Lopez: It looks like renaissance hair from the front!
Golden C.: Did they have to redo their hair every day or did they leave it like this for a while? It seems like a lot of work to do each day.
M O N K E Y - T R I A L . . .: Your model is gorgeous, this hair suits
S.J. Howland: Would that type of rag curling work on long straight fine hair?
emily schwellenbach: love it
Eva Rinaldi: So can she get the thread out without damaging the hair?
KrlyQ: Lovely.
pstCali71: I wake up with the top of my hair this curly and messy, now, I just need someone to do my back . Done. Soooo interesting
Vee: Where do you get that kind of needle?
Me Doing Stuff: My mother and grandmother used rag curlers when they both were little.
Magnolia Crow: Would this loose stitching technique for curls last for more than a day, or would it need to be taken out before sleeping?
Gemma Grundy: I love this music I wish I could have the soundtrack to listen to
abitconfuzzled: Some the the busts show what appear to be very structured front sections (is that the Orbis Comarum part?). Was it possible they combed the hair over a frame?
beckmannm: Could you do a video of the orbis comarum with long hair, not using a hair piece?
Tinyfată: Question ... how were the threads removed ... ?
kolobite: Around 11:20 in the video, I heard cattle lowing in the background! Great video. :)
maisondusuave: It must have been a nightmare to take it down with all the stitching all over.
Samantha La Rocco: I love this! Also am I hearing sheep in the background?!
Vanden Bosch: I wonder if they didn't use also something like sugarwater or honey water to stiffen the hair, so it would keep it shape
A Adams: Your daughter's name is Cat Stephens. I love that.
shell matheis: Amazing. But was This an everyday hairstyle?
marmite400: Very good;
Nancy Davies: Where's my ornatrix when I need her?!
Lady Karen: wow that's a loot of work
Alnair Yorim: Ancient Rome's version of a poodle hairstyle.
eme foulquie: Why felt? Does it makes a difference compared to using other kinds of fabric?
Alli M.: God bless hair spray
precisely one tomato: very 80s not 1980s, just 80s
kooolkidninjamaster: Did anyone do the circle hair by their own hair or did they always use fake hair wreaths?
precisely one tomato: very 80s not 1980s, just 80s
Abdullah Al Nahyan: Like 1980s
mx mars: should have used someone with real curls
Orito uwu: I REALLY LOVE YOY
Chara Choppel: Are you sure that sculpted hair above the forehead is made by teasing? To me it looks like lots and lots of tight and hard little curls built up to a gigantic mount.
L: Who's here from AS/IS
Rapha Osigeli: Who's here from quora?
N C: Roman mullet
Emily Jones: 8They had hair like that of women, and teeth like those of lions. 9They also had thoraxes like breastplates of iron, and the sound of their wings was like the roar of many horses and chariots rushing into battle. Rev. 9:8-9.
Susan Jaeger: Yeah ok rag rolls, we did it as kids. But these women are doing the same thing we women today AND my mom's days are doing. They're using illusion pieces of hair, clip in hair, wigs, etc. STOP trying to make us believe that these people were so back woods. You insult us. These cultures had ties, bands, pins and clips for their hair...JUST LIKE US!