How To Cut A Long Layered Haircut With A Razor

Hello, hair brains, world, look how we're calling brainetics. My name is sabes McCoy and I am a senior Arco, a global educator and also the creator co-owner and creative director of House of pop. Look it up on Instagram and we are here with Brooke and it has really really looking long hair and we're going to work on. I want to keep it really kind of simple. Today, we've been doing these facebook lives for a bit, and so this is our last one of the year, so it's gon na be a lot of fun. I'Ve got Nikolas on the phone camera there, I've got Kat, shooting stills and a very special guest is my favorite photographer in the entire world. Connor Allen he's here to hang out with this. So what I want to go into first also ask questions. Let us know you're here say hi what country you're watching from all that sort of stuff iron Co says hi dougie. So the big thing is with Brooke she's got really long hair and she she is science she's with amazing management, company called ma'am. So she she is getting work, and so I don't want to do anything. That'S going to set her up there. She'S gon na be limited on jobs, but we had a big talk and I think consultation is where a lot of people kind of go wrong because we get in the salon and we're like yeah. What do you want? I want this great. Let'S go shampoo you and we don't get into the heart of what's going on, so I have a really good consult with Brooke and one of the things that I like to ask. Besides, you know the typical you know: what's her routine, that sort of thing what's your background, the big thing that that I want to concentrate on is what was her worst haircut like if he asked that all of a sudden, your consultation has taken a completely different Kind of spin and Brooke one time, chef, banks and that didn't go over all that well and for her it's just because it's just trying to grow them out what to do with them. She doesn't blow dry. She washes by often know irons. No, no! So this has got a dry, very natural for so, if I lock her into bangs that might throw her in a world that she doesn't want to be in the other thing she had done if somebody gave her a bomb and she hated that - and there is Such a thing as long haired, girls and short haired girls in Brookes definitely long haired girl, so we want, but that does it tells me what we're not going to do. I'M not given your bangs and not cutting it off. So what we talked about, then. I asked her what her best haircut was, and she said you know as long as it works were and dries good, that's what she wants. So that's what we're going to do, but right now it's obvious hair takes up the majority of our upper body, so she starts just losing this, so we're gon na bring it up. I'M going to open her face a little bit more. The big thing is, I'm not going to give her bangs, but what Brooke tends to get is what I call like the daughter from The Incredibles great. So she only has half a face and I want to open this up, so we can see all of her. I am gon na be razor, cutting it and the reason I'm gon na be razor cutting. It is because I don't want. I want this to just grow out into something else. I don't want to walk her into she's, got to be back in six to eight weeks for a haircut I'd, rather her be back in about three months, so I am gon na be razor, cutting it I'll, probably be doing a little bit of scissor work. So what we did was shampooed her already with television, shampoo and conditioner from Arco and she's actually getting this little bag. So this is the bag we're gon na be using on it. So that's what we're gon na be doing. It'S not gon na be overly technical, but I do want to get into you. If you have questions about the razor that sort of thing I want you guys to ask otherwise we're just gon na hang out. You got people watching from Bosnia. Yeah we've got Roger watching from Netherlands Franco from Antarctica all around the world, starting on this simple section, I'm actually gon na end up, probably having her stand up not yet, but when I start, you start having to work over the chair, so you're automatically getting a Graduation - and I want this, this perimeter to be clean, so one thing in the consultation that I found is that Brooks had some breakage, because the rest of it hangs way down right. The breakage is already going where, where I want to be, which is really cool. The other thing that I want to concentrate on is taking a big enough section that I have here to cut a lot of times we can get into where we take too small. Of a section because we're trying to take this quarter or half inch sections and there's not enough hair to cut so instead of taking my sections for her head, I'm taking them for my perimeter, so I take a bit of a bigger section just because she does Have that breakage there's some Washingtonians watching mm-hmm some people from home Washington as much as I know, yeah, I think so. So the big thing with the razor it's like razor 101 is there's the tip of the blade, the heal, the blade in the middle of the blade or the flat the tip I'm going to be using for the right side. And if your left hander just switch everything that over just sever well I'll use the tip on the right side, the reason why is because I can get the blade right into the section right. Thank you keep it to where I'm actually cutting a line, instead of just thinning it out to nothing. The part that we want to watch is for right. Handers is the left side because I need to use the heal on the left side, but in order to cut my line, if I just hold it straight down - and I cut it - you can see I'm actually cutting on top of the section. Instead of on side of the section, so if I want to cut on the side, I'm gon na have to bring it out, which now I'm elevating now I'm getting graduation, which I don't want. So when I cut the left side, I'm actually going to twist my hand around so that I can cut a nice clean line, I'm going to cut straight to her back. So when you get done it'll, be there it's just much nicer. Instead of having a really strong lying on the right side and we're really weak lying on the left, so I'll show you what that looks like cool I'll, just bring it straight in and I'm going to use a fairly short stroke. So you can see what you just cut this benefit of a razor. Well, let's straight in remove that now I get a much cleaner line. So now I can move into my right side use the tip of the blade Brianna wants to know why razor instead of scissors, I cut it with scissors that I can do this haircut with scissors, but if I cut it with scissors cut the block line, even If I point cut, I'm still cutting blunt, which means she's. That line is gon na grow out, much quicker, where, if I use something, that's a little softer and variegated that lines gon na grow out, much softer and basically I'll just grow into something else. Where a lot of hairdressers will pre book their clients six to eight weeks, I tend to book my clients every two to three months and that's so I want it to grow into something else. I don't want to lock them in, but if I was doing something a bit more precise, then then yeah I've used scissors. Are you using a cutting sprayer yeah? We'Ve got some one by Armco on there right now and that just adds a little bit of slip to there not much. I don't want it really silky. Her hair is already super healthy and strong. I slice with the razor, if you think about I was thinking about this the other day, except when I'm petting, all I'm doing, is using it to erase what I don't want, you're just working my way up in the head. So now I'm to the part where I call it the play space. So everything from me out Sifl about your hairline, is making up my perimeter as you can tell it's super strong, but here's where I want to when I'm above the occipital to the bottom of the crown it's free space. I want to break this, so I'm actually a section s and have Brooke sit down. I want layers in this, but I don't want to do them technically, because if she gets booked for a job where they want her to have silky straight hair and they're gon na Flatiron it I don't want them to have to mess with the layers. Okay. So what I'm going to do, instead, which it's nothing basic about this, I'm going to bring it down low elevation. So don't want this, because what I would end up doing is going to short, so I'm gon na keep it at a low elevation and all my layers are gon na be internal there's, my perimeter, so I'm just gon na go in you very lightly. Take out my excess, we did it slow from you guys at first, so you can kind of see where we're going with this. So we have marina watching from Italy and in Italy, I'm gon na be there in. May she just says Italy for right now. She says: she's got a struggle struggle with a razor with keeping the guideline any tips because you're just good so yeah. You know free, that's a great question. The only thing I can respond to that depends because it depends on what exactly you're thinking about too many times we get in with a razor, and we try to use it like a pair of scissors and so we're looking for that blunt, clean line. The whole point with erasers that you don't have that blunt clean line, so my advice is work. It that way we're using the tip on the right, the heel on the left, because the only thing you're ever going to use the middle of the blade for is for cutting in a hairline and for layers like what I'm doing now. So keep doing. All that. But just loosen your ass, you know loosen your eye up a little bit and let it be a little bit more free. Instead of trying to cut like precision with the razor you can it's just going to take you forever. So what you can see now is just what that does. Is it just started to open up this wave? That'S in her hair right, but you can't see it by comb it all straight down. It still looks like one leg there, but all that internal layering or inversions. That'S what's waking all this hair up, I'm cutting it right down to my perimeter. Claudia says hi from Portugal, hi Claudia. What I'm not going to do is do what I was just doing when I get to just behind the ear, because this hair is much weaker and it's only. This is my chair. If I go and cut into that all this is going to start bouncing up. So I'll avoid that area so Kelsey's asking, would you still do this cut on somebody who's, really light blond, color processed yeah if their hair can take it, and I think we get a lot of those questions? Would you do this with this person? Would you do that with that person, don't think of it so much it's like you've already gone to training you've already been educated. Don'T those those bits are already in your head, I'm not doing a haircut, I'm doing Brookes Erica, so her hair can deal. Can do this if I have somebody else in my chair that maybe their hair can't handle it? I wouldn't do it, it's all individual. You know you guys have heard me say this before it's like I'll. Never do this haircut again, it's a one-off! It'S just for Brooke, Katelyn Butler, says hi, but that's where you get. You know your precision cutting stuff you do like. If you get assessing and you go to school, learn all that because it's important but don't let it dictate later, how you do it. This is like a suit. We go into get into our clients come in and they want to Bob, and you give him like the most perfect Bob ever, but you did a perfect bob, but is it the perfect haircut for her? That'S a huge aspect. That'S fantastic! Her hair's already there and I want this already knew. I want this to be quite grungy like 90s and she doesn't blow dry. So why would I walk her into something? That'S has to be dried. It'S just a better look for her, so I'm gon na get in the front and you can already see where it's either broken or been cut. Yeah. It'S been about a year since, since she's had a haircut, so it's like less breakage, but I'm really liking it. Like really liking, where it's hitting my first thing is, I got ta, get rid of this and I got ta get rid of it, not because somebody who made up a haircut tells me I have to get rid of it. I have to get rid of it because it's for her face like there's a body down in here and I've got to remember that that the haircut has to fit this and it has to fit this. And if it doesn't, you just did a really great haircut. But made a girl look, I'm gon na have her turn her head, because I need a flat area to work on not saying you're flat, just because I can't do it on her shoulder because, as soon as I hit shoulder, I'm gon na be lifting my fingers Out causing graduation and again, I'm cutting perimeter now so I have returned her head, so I can just work in this flat area and they don't have to worry about moving things around is what that looks like if I have her head this way and I'm cutting Over here I'm elevating here, I'm not I'm just watching where your hair wants to bend, bring it all the way over to the side, because if I pull it this way, I'm gon na push back, and I don't want to push back. I want it to come straight now. That'S already literary. Some people are asking if you would still be razoring when the hair is a little dry, because they're saying it looks not wet anymore. Those reason why is because it's damn it's got a little bit of slip to it, but what hair will lie to you? So if it's too wet it stretches and it's not sitting where it's going to sit when it's dry, so I want it damp but not wet. The other thing is I'm cutting with the edge of the blade. So I'm not shredding it. I'M actually cutting my line and back where I left off, and it just falls in there great and then there's my into my length I'll work that all the way down now I'll just connect. Turning my fingers in so I'm still cutting a straight line. Nothing over directed yeah, I'm just erasing what I don't want to see it's like. If it doesn't need to be there, then I'll use the blade to erase it. I'M not cutting a sharp line. There'S two things I need to see which is cheekbones and jawline. I can't see that I'm dude might do it for a fashion reason, but on a wearable reason, it's like I've got to see, keep growing and drawing because that means she has a face same thing. I have to turn your head, so this hair on this side is a bit finer, so I'm gon na go in and hit it with a little bit of one, but I'm not soaking it and how that looks if you are using scissors, like I said, I'm Doing nothing that I can't do with scissors. So if I was gon na do this with scissors comb, it the same way straight down, but what I'm gon na do is I'm just gon na go in and talk it not slide you're just going to talk that bit, but you see the difference. It'S just very heavy, very blunt by the way these are my favorite scissors from Mizutani and they're. Eight inch so make boys, but now I'm just going to go inside the stem of that I'm a loose in this back up softer, but that's the difference. It'S a razor cut because I'm using razor, but the tool doesn't make the hair type. The hairdresser makes the hair okay and the person you're putting it on, makes the hair we're in Washington State and get the snowing earlier today, don't remind me this world using the tip of the blade. You got this long piece right here, but I don't like it's because I haven't dealt with him yet so again, not classically Larry. Now I'm gon na go in do some internal. I love hearing all the shutters going off, so I highly recommend you guys find yourselves really great photographers library, so it's like I've got internal airing for conversions through the back. I got some here in the front, but now I want this crown to jump most of you, you know mean it's like I'll cut this until it's dry. I want to see exactly what's what's happening, but what I'm going to do is just a slight arrow head. The tricks trick about arrowheads is that, first of all, you got ta get your section drink. That helps. The trick is, is that you can't? This is going to be your part that falls over. If you cut an arrowhead, you need that cutting that off you're gon na have a ledge. We don't want that, so I'm actually going to start where that wants to bend ever so lightly. So what that? Does you can see it just jumped loosened all that up? That'S what you wan na see, if you guys want to see more of this one of our co-founders Howard, McClaren is going to be in Seattle next month. So if you live in the area, get your tickets, our code column and go see him he'll be doing a lot of this will probably explain it a lot better than I always check with your agent before you came here. So my big thing is sleep. The meat of it's done. That'S, you know super quick like 15 minutes, but now you got to look at it. You go make sure it all works, and then you customize it. I can work that still think we're a little heavy on that. Okay get cozy. So I'm taking Wade out and then captain Romo Holly that works we've got a face. Let'S see it on this side coming for me, yeah, nice, sir, that's not good! Somebody started seeing what looks you can get. This is really horrible to cut something symmetrical and then wear it asymmetrical, and then you get layers on this side and it's one length on this side Goldman. So I hope this is making sense for everybody again, especially if you're used to having like training where they give you a haircut to do, which is great, builds practice. But after a while, it's like you've got to be able to customize it to your client. That'S one thing: Arne Cohen house, a pop that we work on. It'S not about the haircut it's about how the haircut works on the person. I think so cuz they just stopped asking questions. I answered them all. Well, it's almost. You know, cocktail thing yeah. On a Monday who needs a Monday cocktail, so what I'm gon na do now is take a little bit of high dynamic, which is just a moisture and shine cream, which is just that it's just moisture shine. I don't want to put anything in her hair. That'S gon na make it cuz, I'm just gon na hand dry. This pose blow drying it into something I might use something else, but hide is super soft remind me of an oil-based cream. We used to use in the 90s that made the hair super soft. Put it in, let it air dry or you could still blow dry with it and that's what I got the oil. So you don't want meat as much oil in there we used to high-dive just wakes it up. I don't know if you can see in the light. This is all this texture now that she didn't have. But what I'm doing now is I'm not looking at the haircut I'm looking at her and I'm moving this around making sure that everything I'm seeing I'm liking and that's where, especially once you get into editorial and you start working behind the camera start training your eye. I start seeing this and what I'm looking for is drama looking for not just oh, it's a great haircut, but it's a great look, but that's just where she's shining key, which is basically just a leaving conditioner on steroids. Just kind of looks, get that thought. What'S in it just looks good, that's how I that's, how I'd have her hair dry you just twist it just let it go. Let'S speed things up a little bit of time-lapse photography, but he uses the future. Instead of I don't want loading it all over the place, I wanted to still be like that. Every day, if I get in there with a blow dryer, I might fall apart this Amina can't taken like does it look like she had lost? That'S why I like haircuts like this, it's done for like can we go out and you teach we'll talk about the product if we need to, but most of time it's about why? Why did I tell it this way? Why did I pick this product? Why am i styling over we healthy as an iron set brushed out red carpet they're? All she tells me she doesn't use products, I'm not gon na if it works okay connection here, where it's just pretty healthy, clean hair, but it moves so much better. Now it's lighter, there's nothing! You can't do to it. You still put it up. You can still set it. It'S just cool there. I don't have to use a billion products in it. There'S a pick the right one, sometimes like later in later in life, when please work, do something, but I love clean this clean hair, so I'm meticulous offering this let's it so I can see her, but I think it needs some more shine because I know I've Got food photographers: here's now she's got some pictures taken. Let'S move it up a little bit so nice and glittering. It'S just like super cool. It'S not glitter, but it's shiny and sparkly and it doesn't weigh anything, especially if you're going for like a grunge look. We don't want too much on our ends. You should look beauty on the top, that's where the Brook and I had a chat about over washing her hair. What'S a healthy amount to watch when it so especially girls have long, hair, they're working out the yoga, freaks and stuff like that, and it's like sweat isn't dirt. It'S just salt water. We use that little dry shampoo Brooks getting some spiritualize dry shampoo and she leaves but oil comes from here, and it's got to get down here so for over washing it never has a chance. The hair of the ends are going. What about me - and so I like just rinsing it using a like a foam cleansing conditioner like analog, we're the kind of cleans the hair but keeps the oil in it. I don't like this, but when I cut I tend to treat the cut like I'm on set. So it's like anything you don't like. I can cut off. You can change it. I'M here, fantastic, nice, simple, clean you did your shoes. Do a soul. Do it was like a song we'll give them a shout out yeah, it's like super 90s super, pretty simple, clean, no fuss. Remember clean hair can be a look just like a second. I think and build this a little bit more, some on my station, so it lasts until we get her on set these little trophy, but that's the thing and anybody that's been in my classes. That way I talk about it's like get. The haircut done. Haircut takes like 10 15 minutes, get it finished and use the rest of the time to see what else you can do. She'S gon na play with it. That'S a bit more like glam mud club Garen did an amazing look, but for a nursery. I love that idea might Club us an amazing club in New York in the eighties and all the girls kind of had a look. So that's fun. That'S I can get all these changes with minimal effort, but you just have to play and after experiment and that's why the clients are coming to sit in your chair, so you want to play. They want to experiment. What can I do with it? Instead of walking him into you, you have to do this because if you tell your clients, they have to do that. That'S exactly what they're going to do! You'Re coming back! I can't see in your bag. It'S cool, hey, see how it changes. It'S amazing: what a haircut can you somebody loosened up all that weight. I just want to encourage everybody to play with their clients. Show them all this. If you don't they don't see it, they don't know it. You get a injustice to them. Sorry, I just looked really cool again. It'S just got my dive in freshly shampooed high dive, a little glittering put some oil into it, a little trophy to get some tack in it. Just my hands no brush. It'S like all the looks you can do on camera. Put them on your Instagram sweet, good, okay! Oh all! Right! Let'S go get you your bag, so she's! Getting television, shampoo and conditioner. Some Death Valley, dry, shampoo, you're, getting shampoo dry shampoo, a little baby bottle of high-dive, because she's gon na come back on behalf of Arco and hair braiding and helps to pop. This is our last one of the year. It is the holidays, so we want to say, Happy Holidays, Merry Christmas, Happy, Hanukkah or whatever, whatever you use helpful and we've got amazing things coming for you next year, so go Oh calm and share class schedules. Like I said it, I'm going to be all over the country, but for the person from Italy, said hi I'll be in Milan in May, during a two-day class there so get your tickets, otherwise happy holidays and