The Best Layered Haircut Tutorial | Full Class

Welcome to the mattebeck podcast woke up this way, he's got a lot of cool stuff he's going to show you today the latest news, industry, topics and business tips for all hair, stylists and salon owners. It'S time to flip the script grab your precision scissors, barber, combs and swivel twist razors, let's cut a bob, a quick shack pick to cut with a little bit of flavor check out the live flashes product reviews, let's rock on don't forget to check out free salon. Education, it's gon na be a great day, guys good to see all of you very cool, wait! I'M looking for wow! I see everybody's profile pictures now. That'S exciting! That'S helpful! Hopefully, today now here's the deal hopefully today, we're gon na have full success with our live stream right. It'S friday, freestyle friday super excited to share with you guys, whatever you want to learn which i actually uh have been sent some ideas and i think i'm going to go with that uh, so very excited about that opportunity. Um i'll tell you guys about that. In a second um good to see all of you guys, this is super cool. So normally, when i see your chat, let me throw up a couple of your uh. Some of you guys don't have profile pictures, but look at this adrian look at that picture cool. What else we got? There'S lynn check it out. You see everybody's profile picture, very cool, uh, nice, all right guys, so you guys know the drill. This is what you do if you're new to the show type new in the chat so that everybody can say hello to you if um also, i mean fixing some chords here. Also, if uh, you have a question during this class, all you have to do is type q and put your question in the chat and then that way i can see it easily uh, as i'm searching through uh i'll see your name i'll, see the queue, and I can put the que uh. I can answer your question very easily: um freaky friday zelda. What'S up no profile picture on zelda awesome sylvia good, to see you mario good, to see you patricia welcome to all the newbies in the chat uh. We got a ton of og's in the chat people have been with this show for now, 42 episodes. You guys are the best. Some of you guys are staying up super late, some of you it's three o'clock in the morning, some of you it's early morning. Some of you, it's perfectly in the middle of the day um, but thank you guys so much for joining me. Uh today, we're gon na be cutting some hair. It'S gon na be super fun. I want you guys to share this on whatever social platform. You are on right now, uh, if you're on youtube, if you could share it over to facebook too, that would be great. Let'S grow this room as big as we can get it today, guys it's friday. I'M i'm we're gon na have some fun. We'Re gon na have a lot of fun, all right, maybe og's, just right og, if you're og, right og in the chat. I, like it, snowden good to see you. This is cool. I like seeing the um profile pictures david, welcome good to see some new people barbara. Thank you so much appreciate that see. Tiffany og og with no profile pic - i bet all of you guys - are gon na - have profile pics by next week. Now you will now you will sarah good to see you all right. Cool blanca awesome awesome, seeing all the familiar names, fajita, okay, so here's the deal, let's see um. We already got some questions popping in so i want to uh start answering some questions, but also based on the way that we're doing the class today. I want to get right into it because uh we're going to try to bust out as many haircuts as we can on one mannequin head from start to finish so uh no blow drying on this one. I'M just going to do a bunch of cuts and share that with you guys, it's gon na be a fun challenge. I'Ve never done this before uh all in one sitting, so we're gon na do basically a long haircut. We'Ll do a long, layered haircut then we're gon na go into a medium-length haircut, then probably a bob and then we're gon na go into. Let'S say a pixie um and just cut that thing short it'll be super fun uh. So hopefully you guys are in for the ride with me. I don't know how long this is gon na take, hopefully not too long uh. So i don't wan na talk too much but uh jess. Thank you so much for submitting uh that idea on the app. So also, if you guys are not on the fse now app make sure that you download it. That is our app. It'S a free app. It'S a community based app uh, where you can see everybody posting their work, um beautiful work in the uh. Oh cool looks like we've updated some things um to make pictures fit a little bit better and yeah. So it's super cool guys. You guys are sharing your work on there. You build your own profile. Let'S take a look at somebody's profile, real quick, let's highlight somebody who we got here, let's just say: hopefully they have i'm also putting in the ability to search for stylus just to make it easier for me to to share with you guys, people that i know Are really killing it with their profile but um? So let's just say here, so you build a profile, it's got all of your information. You got all your work on your profile as well, so i love seeing you guys really building that up. Um, that's really cool and then also when you click on the education button, you can watch all of our past videos. Today'S video, you get alerts when we do live classes all that stuff so make sure the app is called fse. Now you can download it on the app store, i'm going to play a quick little promo video, because i really really it's so important uh for you guys to go, create a profile that really builds this community even stronger, so check out what the app is. All about and then we're going to get started with the haircut. So take a look right now. Here we go so uh you guys it's free, so go in there download the app and uh build a profile set up. Everything start sharing your work and i'll make sure that i hit like on it for sure super excited, so jess is saying all newbies, please share. So, if you're new, to the show, please hit the share button, that's all i ask these videos are always free um. I just want you to hit that share button. That is, the tip jar like jess is saying just hit share so that we can get this out to as many people as possible uh and we can learn together. So thank you guys so much for that. Let'S get started with the class, so today i've got my mannequin here. Um we've got all the camera angles. So not only do we have it here, um we're going to be able to do some close-up shots here, and we also have our overhead right here so that i can show you guys all the different angles as i'm cutting. So it's going to be really fun and should be very educational for you guys as well um, i'm going to start off, throwing things so here's what i'm going to do so, i'm going to start off by brushing the hair back so straight back off the head. We'Re going to do a long, layered haircut, so i really want to go over sectioning with this cut, because sectioning is so important in every haircut, but when you are working with the head shape uh that that's what i want to be my main focus during this Class, so here we go so we're going to comb everything back, i'm going to create a u-shape around the top of the head. So let me pop over here there we go. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to comb the hair in the direction. I want to part it right, so if i want to create a u-shape i'm going to comb around and just let the hair get flowing in that direction about halfway around the head, just like that and then once i'm there then i can just draw my line Very easily around the head and i get a nice clean parting, so you see that that's kind of the key for getting clean sections when cutting hair. So now i'm going to keep combing everything around the head towards the front. I want to mark a spot that looks similar to the other side, with my thumb once i get the hair comb through and then i'm just going to follow that line and bring the parting or the section over to my finger right there. So now i got another clean line: comb this up. Oh all, right, i'm gon na turn her and i'm gon na show you guys from the front. Go back this camera out a little bit perfect? Okay! So i comb this up in the air just like that, and now what i'm gon na do is twist. It turn it make sure it's balanced, go twist, it nice and tight around and then i'll clip it. Let me rotate her, so you can see so the section kind of rides, parietal ridge then comes up mid crown right around this area and then works back down, parietal ridge on the opposite side kind of a diagonal forward, slight angle, to that parting. Now, what i'm going to do is i'm going to split the head in half so right at that division point so where the head divides in half. That'S where i'm going to section it. What i want to do is i want to make sure that i match up with this hairline, so og's in the chat you've heard this before. But what i'm going to do is i'm going to match this line and really what i'm aiming for? Is this hairline right here on your guest? You want to basically draw a line straight from there up to mid crown following that hairline. So that's where i'm going to comb the hair in this direction and then i'm going to work just diagonal slight diagonal forward and try to match up the best. I can the hairline to the part line. Oh, that's super blurry, that's not a good there. We go locked it in now, no works so i'll comb that hair out maria happy healthy friday to you as well, thanks for joining now twist twist twist and we'll clip all right. So you can see that section easy, i'm gon na do the same thing on the opposite side, finding that hairline. So i look for where it is. I start combing and i draw from the crown down to the hairline: go a little bit more over there. We go i'll comb that straight out to the newbies of the show. There'S no camera guy here. Oh it's, a one-man one-man show. You ever see the drummer that has like the symbols in between his legs. That'S this class. So if you see me stop move the camera around uh stop play music, you know, keep things rolling. That'S me juggling and symbols between my legs. Okay, all right! Here we go so that's the sectioning for the sides and the top now we're gon na move into the back straight down like that and i'm gon na flip pop. Here we go so now we're going to go straight down center back just like this and we'll comb. It so vertical line straight down the center back and then i'm going to come over this way and i'm going to draw directly over from the occipital bone to behind the ear horizontal line. Just like that, and i'm going to section this up and clip it away. As well, then, we're gon na do one more section and then we're gon na be ready to cut just like this over follow the occipital bone feel that bend that curve right there in the head i'll comb this straight out, and then i'm going to explain as Soon, as i get this up, why i section this way pretty much on every cut that i do um so that you have a better understanding of sectioning and why we do it the way we do it all right, so we clipped that away. So now we've got our basic sectioning throughout the head shape. So what i'm going to do is i want to go over that break it down, for you guys real, quick um, actually, let's flip to pop here, okay, so the way that this sectioning works and one of my favorite things about uh, this type of sectioning. Is it really just separates all the different curves in the head if that makes sense, so what we're doing is we're separating at the parietal ridge, which is this curve here so as the curve, so basically, this whole top section is almost flat. It'S got a slight curve to it see a little bit of sunrise to it, but it's not super curvy right then, once you pass this line, it curves into another section, another surface, another uh angle, so this part down doesn't really curve too much. So we separate these two sides. So when you look at right here, you've got parietal ridge. So as it comes around, we section that off as it curves around this way, we section that off so now everywhere that we're working in every section that we're working we're. Basically, working on a almost semi-flat plane, so anytime, i elevate the hair, i kind of know exactly how i'm elevating it through if that makes sense so um. So we separate that then in the back here this curves a little bit more. So as i look into the back uh the center back here, i divide it so we're just working on this plane and this plane and then we've got everything from the occipital bone, which is another curve straight down on the head. So that's how i separate it. Uh all through, like that, all right guys remember as i go into cut, if you guys have a question type q, uh and then put your question, and i will try my best to see it on the chat as i'm cutting it's a little bit hard, sometimes Because i'm looking at this, so i'm not looking at that, but i'm i'm trying to look at both so just keep posting that question through and i'll make sure that i try to get to it um as i'm cutting all right. So let's work this haircut so we're going to start from the occipital bone down, i'm going to say occipital, because it's more comfortable for me and i don't really care you guys know what i'm talking about um. So i'm gon na tilt the head slightly forward now. Why do i tilt the head? I tilt the head because it makes me more comfortable, not because it changes the haircut right. So if i tilt the head and as i'm cutting i'm working this angle - and i want to cut it - let's say straight out like this right. If i wanted to do this same angle and her head was like this, then my body would be like this right. So the real reason why i tilt her here forward is because now my body position is basically straight up. It'S comfortable and the more comfortable i am when i'm cutting hair. The more consistent i will be with my hair cut so just be aware of body position in that way. So what we're going to do we're going to start actually going to shift her this way tilt her up a little bit more we're going to layer this um, not so much concave, because we're not going to collapse the shape, but what i want to do is I want to elevate it up, so this would be basically 90 degrees out from the head. The head curves like this, so i want to come just a little bit higher than 90 and start cutting my line. I'M also going to be using five and a half inch scissor uh. This is my limited edition, scissor from mizutani. I think we still have a couple available on shop fse. So let me see if i have yeah, i have a button so on shopifsc.com, if you guys want, if you're looking for a scissor, we have payment plans on all of our scissors. Now um, so you put half down you break it up in payments, makes things easier, also the clips the comb all this stuff is available for purchase on our website. So if you want to get it, this is a five and a half inch scissor. It'S my precision scissor and it's kind of my go-to, so i designed everything from the handle to the blade to be comfortable in my hand and with the style of cutting that i like to do so as i go through here. Let me see, i elevate the hair up, i'm using the looser teeth of the comb, not pulling a ton of tension into it, and then i'm just going to point cut my line now. I want a pretty precise line, but i don't need it to be perfect. So i'm just going to go through and point cut it straight back through check it. So now that's our first cut into the layers. Now i go vertical section right next to it, take a little bit of that old hair, bring it in now, i'm combing the new hair towards my guide. Now i know some of you guys black shirt. We get it black shirt, black hair, dark hair. Here we go okay, so now you can see better so straight up in the air, just like that and we'll cut our line. Now i'm going to pop into this angle here, so i go a little bit over and basically once i get to the edge of this hairline staying in a box so instead of over directing over to behind the ear, i'm staying straight back. So if you look at this as a box here, just like that, that's what i'm staying into so let me see if i can do this, i can balance it. So this is my box right. So everything comes straight back, so i follow my guide traveling around the head, but then, once i start to get around this corner now, it's coming straight back slight over direction just to preserve a little bit of length in the front of the hair. The good thing about this is that we've got the hairline that we left out on the edge, so that will help us from getting that hole that we're talking about or that rounded shape that kind of follows up the head shape so, but, as i'm working, i Just go straight back from the head shape just like this up cut through and then the last little bit bring that back to me and cut biggest thing for me, uh with longer haircuts, um, and i know some of us could think that longer haircuts are kind Of boring in the salon, let me flip over here real quick, so a lot of us could think that longer haircuts are kind of boring in the salon, but here's one thing: i want you guys to think about when you're cutting the perimeter or the interior of Long hair, our goal is to make sure that the hair is staying. Healthy, looks, healthy, has a style has a shape to it. So for me, i get the joy out of looking at the ends of the hair and saying well: where does it look weak right and then, where it looks, weak is where i want to bring that haircut into it. So if a client comes in they're, like you know, just take off what you have to then what i'll do is i'll actually go in and show them where the density looks weak and where the hair looks weak in the haircut and then that's where we'll usually Take it as long as they're cool with it so just make sure that anytime you're thinking about a longer hair, it's about keeping it longer, but about making it healthy and about keep. You know having a shape to it all right. Here we go so i'm gon na do the same thing here, still moving across creating that kind of square back, but now i'm pushing the hair away from me. Just like that. I find my guide and i cut through all right. I see some questions as soon as i finish, the back i'm going to go through the questions, real quick make sure we answer them all and then i'll move on to the next section, so combing it forward. So everything is coming straight back not over not over directing it just straight out from the head there we go last bit not much to cut point cutting through again. Also, i'm not really worried about that tension uh past the second knuckle, because this is a pretty tension, free haircut, uh and i'm doing point cutting to soften so just make sure that it's consistent, but i don't need it to be perfectly precise and we just check Our links we're all good, and that is the back of the haircut now i haven't. I cut into the perimeter when i elevate it, but i didn't cut a lot so if we need to make that stronger at the very end, i can always do that. All right, let me uh hit up some questions. Real quick, make sure that we're all good camera back on. Thank you very much here we go okay, so cue, matt, are you point cutting the hair? Yes, michelle um going through point cutting, because i want to create a soft line in the haircut. I don't want it to be a hard blunt line. You totally could do that and my point cutting is pretty precise, so i'm still cutting lines uh, i'm just not cutting them as precise. Let'S see next question, that's why one side is shorter, not sure, not sure charlene. What your question is. Um, let's see, is it 45 actually put a q before your question? Is it 45 or 180 degree angle uh? Just because i don't want to miss your question: um 45 or 180. It'S neither one of those. What it is is so when you look at the head shape right, so this is what we're taught in school and i've talked about this before, but i want to really drive this point home. What we're taught in school is that when we take hair from this part of the head - and we hold it at this angle, come on camera come back to me. There we go when i do this, this angle in school. We'Re taught. This is a 45 degree angle right. The problem is right here from the occipital bone down is flat and already at that angle right, so because it's already at that angle, if i come straight out of the head, i'm at 90 degrees right. So what i'm doing is i'm elevating it here, so i'm coming about in between so 180 would be directly straight up right, i'm not doing that, but i'm not coming out 90.. So i'm right in the middle of those two, so whatever that degree is 115 degrees right. So beyond that, i don't really care when i think about um the different angles of hair cutting. I look at the fact that is it 90 at 90, everything that and above gets seamless and just removes weight right. Everything from 90 down builds weight, so i look at, is it 90 or is it above um? Zero is going to be the heaviest point that i really want, so i try not to go anything below zero um and then - and that's pretty much the rules that i that i go by when i'm cutting here. So it's a little bit above 90 degrees to create layers all right next one here, you guys are awesome by the way uh keep up the questions really appreciate that um. I don't see any other questions in there, so hopefully you're good. This is why it's important to put a cue before your question like this uh, because i just scan through it really fast to make sure we're on the same page uh. So a big q helps me see it quickly, um as i'm going through. If you finish the back and they have one short side, do you cut more on the long side? I do to make it healthy and even so maria that's a good question. Uh. Thank you for asking it i so here's. Let me get into more why you have a shorter side most of the time or not, that you have it most of the time, but because the reason most people have it uh end up with a shorter side. It'S because of the guideline right, so um. Let me go to this camera here so as we're going through the head go here, so as i'm going through the head and i'm cutting when i'm working my way this direction, what i'm usually doing is taking a section and bringing it so taking new hair and Pulling it towards my guide right, um see if i can get a better. Actually overhead might be the best okay cool. Let'S do this so right here right, so i'm usually taking a new section of hair and when i'm working this way on the head shape. So i'm working this direction. I point my thumb up, uh, depending on what we're doing right, but let's just say now: i'm combing the new hair. So this is my new hair. I comb it to the guide right comb it over to the guideline cut. It drop it now. I'Ve got a new guideline and i pick up new hair and i bring that new hair to the guideline and i cut it right that little shift depending on how thick of a section you take, because if i take this much hair now look how much i'm Bringing over and how much over direction is happening from this point to get it to here. So now, when i cut it and i drop it now - i have a guide - that's even longer, to then cut and drop it. So everything starts to get longer. Now, what we'll typically do is then i'll take to work on the opposite side. I'Ll take a piece for the guide right then i grab a section next to it and i comb my guide towards the new hair, because i just keep doing the same thing and i work my way over and so what i'm basically doing at that point is: I'M taking my guide and i'm pulling it, which is making it shorter to then cut this piece. Then i cut this piece drop that down now i got a new guide. I bring it over to this piece, i cut it. It gets even shorter, so it keeps getting shorter and this side keeps getting longer so now, all of a sudden. At the end, i end up with two different length sides if that makes sense, so the key is to be consistent. I take a section from the middle small section and then i take a small bit of more hair right, so i take more guide than new hair. I bring that over and i cut it so now on both sides. So, if i'm cutting on this side, i take my guide and my new hair and i comb it the new hair towards the guide. Then the same thing happens when i get to this side now, i'm combing this way into the hair to comb the new hair into the guide instead of pushing the guide to the new hair, and that will help me keep both sides balanced and even throughout the Cut so it's very important to be consistent and do things exactly the same on both sides, so you get a very similar result in the end. Hopefully that makes sense. I think i explained that uh well, but not sure you guys can. Let me know all right. Adele, what happened to the large bang cut video mat, so adele um that got broken up right, so we got an interruption in our stream when we were doing that. Class um and i have to put the class together uh and also failed to record on my computer, which is a hassle um, but i can pull it off of youtube. I just haven't: haven't done it yet, so it will be back up this weekend and i'll post it on the app for you guys, all right, cool, all right, maria i'm trying to uh. I'M reading your question i meant like if they have a little short area that breaks or they twist the hair or have a thick heavy growth side. Um i mean those are all like really unique situations. I feel so i i don't know if i without seeing it can give you an answer on that um, if you, if you want, go on the app and post a picture of that scenario, and this is kind of why we have the app post a picture Of something that's a challenge and ask a question, and then you have me and the community we can all go in there and try to figure it out together. That'S kind of the bigger bigger goal of that uh app, all right cool. All right, you guys, are awesome. Thank you good to see you guys all right sweet all right, we're all on the same page, all right. Let'S keep this thing rolling, guys make sure uh. Do me a favor hit the share button? If you can uh and we're gon na keep going here, cheers coffee all right. So i'm going to wet the hair down a little bit because talking too much keep everything evenly saturated, i'm going to switch my comb color, i'm going from red to green nice! There'S! No reason behind that, except for to show you that we have all these different colors of beautiful combs all right. So now i'm going to let down the right hand, side see how that matches up from the hairline up to the section that is going to ensure that we don't get that hole in the side. This is a totally different density of hair, totally different section. So when i go into that, i'm going to think about that, but for now we're cutting the same section same density all the way throughout it. This is going to be a pivoting moment throughout the top of this cut. So i comb the hair down just like that. I'M going to work through it, i'm taking vertical section straight down center back to start my get. My guide is going to come from the bottom uh section so i'll pop back over here. So just like this just mac, my favorite comb to use is the ys park 339, which is what i have in my hand: uh absolute favorite, one absolute favorite, all right. Let'S see, let's zoom out a little bit, i love okay mill. We got ta, it's fse lin, i'm glad you love cutting fse right, so fse like this fse there you go free salon, education, sweet. Why is it your favorite good call, good question? So there's a couple different things and i actually let me put this down. Let me grab something real quick here. We go um. Where is it? I'M gon na find a another version of a comb for you guys here, of course i don't see it. Maybe i don't have oh yeah. I do right here. Perfecto, oh okay, that's gross! I just figured out what barbicide does if you leave it for a long time. I don't use these on people. Okay, i don't even use these combs. That'S why all right! So let me show you this. This is so gross all right um. So here is the 339 comb right. So i love this comb because it has pretty loose teeth but still keeps good amount of tension for precision cutting. It also has fine teeth for precision cutting and it's nice and small. This is a 335, i believe comb. So you can see the difference in size if some people like larger combs um. I know a lot of people that do i'm just not like for longer hair. Maybe it would be cool, but for me i'm never cutting more than what i hold in my hand. So i don't need a giant comb to work through it. So um i like the the length of it uh this the tininess tininess, that's not gon na work uh and i just like working with a smaller comb as i go through it. So let me turn so you guys can see better this, so i'm gon na come straight out from the head and i'm now going to follow the round of the head. So i'm going to do point cutting again through it and now i'm going to take comb and shift to follow the round of the head up to really get some layers popping in that haircut. Right, i'm going to take another section right next to it. Take a little bit a lot of the old a little bit of new. Add it in there comb it out all right cool! Sorry, i'm just looking at your chat there. So straight out from the head, like this point, cut my section cool a lot of old a little bit of new bring it in. I think it's tom harris, good friend of mine, um learned a lot from tom, the beginning of my educator, career and uh. I think it was him - and i don't know where he learned it, but everybody learns from somewhere right uh that i take 25. That might not have been the exact number, but that's what i think in my head: 25 new hair to 75 guideline. So i take a lot of guides when i say a lot of guide a little bit of new or a lot of old a little bit of new. That'S what i'm thinking in my head percentages. I think sometimes confuse people, so i try not to use them that often but uh. I try to do mostly guideline so that the new hair isn't being over directed too much in the haircut. I just continue working across until i get to this corner here and i'm point cutting my line again. I'M point cutting my line so that i get a nice soft fall to the hair um a lot of times i'll do a haircut i used to. I would do a haircut and then i would blow it out and then i would do a ton of dry cutting because i needed to soften those lines. If you don't put a hard line in the haircut to begin with, then you don't have to take a hard line out of the haircut. So there we go drop this out snowden. I can't think in terms of math. I agree. It'S math was not my uh. My strong suit and we're an artistic industry, so sometimes i don't think math i mean some people are good at math. They just are. Some people are great at spelling. Some people are great at you know, different things that don't really have to do with our industry, but at the same time try to keep it to to meet up with the masses right all right, so grab a lot of old to start. My next side here and a little bit of new and now remember what we talked about earlier now, i'm pushing the hair away from my body instead of pulling it towards me, and that is to make sure i keep consistency in my guideline point cut through it. Just like that, bringing it back bring it back when the cameras go black like that, just a little fun fact for you guys it's because for some reason, good cameras have a shut off point after, like 30 minutes they just shut off. So i got to turn it back on all right here we go point cutting through then i re-comb and i elevate because we're working on a curve right old, new comb point cut. So let's ask some questions to the chat here. I want to see some stuff so first off, where you watch them from post that in the chat love to see that, and so let's post that first then i'll ask another question a little bit. So where are you watching from city state country whatever? It is? Start seeing it love seeing who we get to reach all right good, to see you good to see snowden, what state are you in in the u.s and are you back in the salon, yet i think we're getting to go ahead late next week, maybe end of The month, sometime, jersey, all right, david, close close by practically neighbors david's, starting back in the salon, soon huh, all right, almost done with this back section, virginia good to see you renee point cutting and then elevating to round off that corner that edge last section elevation And there we go all right so now we've got nice consistent, beautiful layers working through the back of the head. You can see just like that, uh all the movement, all the layering throughout so pretty sweet. Let'S see where we're at here all right. So now we're going to move into the sides. You see that layering on the from the front too. Actually, let me pop it around, so you can see the shape you can see how it builds up right and that's kind of like the goal. If i didn't, if i didn't, keep elevating so if i would have worked this section and just brought it right out here and cut it, the problem with that is at 90 degrees right here. This is zero. So if i keep elevating only to here, you get that heavy heavy shelf that happens throughout the haircut. So, in order to not get that, i do a slight shift when i get here, come straight up and cut at that point to try to keep it right at that 90 degree level. So i don't get any weight build up throughout it. Okay sides. Let'S see, i think, we're gon na go, go heavy face frame, long face frame, because i want to leave some length in the front. I don't want to layer it too much because we're gon na do other haircuts, so so we're gon na do a nice face frame through it. So i comb the hair out and down, go like this, so i'm going to do diagonal back parting, i'm going to bring that forward towards me and i'm going to go parallel to that parting. What this is going to do is as soon as i cut it. A long face frame as soon as i cut it what's going to happen, is it's going to drop shorter to longer so those pieces get longer so it starts creating a line that goes backwards, so it starts creating that face frame but then also layering that works Towards the back of the head, so just be aware, as i pull so now, stationary guide right come in here, i'm going to point cut the line just be aware that, as i cut that and now i've got a piece, that's even further away that came over Here so now it's going to fall even further back, but back into the haircut. So it's creating that layering with the face frame at the same time forward, and i just keep cutting at that stationary guide until i run out of hair. That means that the two sides are now connected, probably just bring all this a little bit of hair, just a dust through it. So nice long layers now in the front turn her. So you can see you see how that shape starts. A little shorter gets a little bit longer go right here, so you can see better. So it starts a little bit. Shorter gets a little bit longer towards the back of the cut, so that gives you kind of that v shape effect, not that v that, like extreme v, that you're thinking but more of a rounded kind of fall to the haircut into the back. So now i'm going to do the same thing on the opposite side through here. Let'S see it's too boring, though all right comb, this hair down and we are going to do the same thing put it here now. Somebody in the chat is thinking where's. He gon na get his guide from where's that guide coming from. So what i'll do is i bring these pieces here and i can, even if it makes you guys more comfortable uh in the salon. You can bring it right here and take a little piece. Go overhead so here take a little piece: hold them evenly out and cut it now. You know kind of where to start this section as you bring it over um. You know where it matches up, so i now see that guide there parallel to the parting. So i know that this section will be similar, nothing's ever really exact, similar cut it through diagonal back through here diagonal back just keeping that stationary guide guys keeping my fingers parallel to the section point, cutting my line, make sure it's nice and soft, and that is That now both sides are cut cool. All right. That'S a good question! Jeff! Sorry, i'm just reading questions um, so you're always asking us what we want to learn. I would like to know if you could teach us one thing that would change the way we think of hair. What would it be? Well just here's the deal. The way that i always teach is to try to to do that exact thing, but based on what you wanted to learn in the in the first place, almost tripped and felt that would have been hilarious um. So that's kind of that's what i'm always thinking about. So how can i teach it a little bit differently? How can i, even in this layered haircut, we've taught things similar to this before, but you know it's just always trying to share it in a different way, so that you guys can understand hair a little bit better. One thing: i hope that you kind of take from today's class already is that over direction of the guideline, because that's really a game changer in the salon world, when you're trying to cut something and have it be balanced, um throughout it. So i think, that's probably one of the biggest challenges for hairdressers, hair cutters is keeping a shape balanced throughout the entire time, all right. So this is something fun. I'M going to teach you guys through it. Let'S put it this way. I always take your suggestions, but then i always flip them to what i would want to teach you so um definitely don't feel like i'm holding back in that area at all um all right so - and this is no different in this section right here. So what i want to do is show you guys a fun way to cut the top layers. Um, i'm going to utilize these shorter layers in the back, as kind of like a way to elevate this haircut. These are going to be disconnected and fall over top of it, because they're going to be the longest point in this cut, i like to do that a lot because it builds volume in the back of the hair without cutting too many short layers on the top Of the haircut, you can already see that shape how it kind of builds up this way and then builds back that way. So what i'm going to do is add life and layers to the front of this cut without cutting too much hair off, which is going to be by taking a horizontal see. If i can, i'm gon na need both views on this so overhead, so i'll. Take it and i'm gon na section the fringe area first out like that, and what i'm gon na do is a fun technique that uh my pal samvia who's gon na, be on the show on monday um. I learned from him. So i take this in my fingers and i'm gon na grab it and i'm gon na twist. It once bring it up over to me just like this. So now i've got it twisted and i'm going to point cut that front piece. What twisting the hair does? Is it actually over directs? So it takes this side of the hair and pulls it over to this side, so it actually makes it fall just a little bit longer in the haircut uh. Now. What i'm going to do is i'm going to continue through this shape here. Let me see if i can so i'm going to comb it across and then i'm going to show you a different angle when i bring the hair back forward, so i'm going to bring it forward towards myself that pop to this angle, so i comb the hair Straight out, and then i take the hair and i twist it like that in front of the head. I see my guide and then i just start to point cut the hair in a condensed form. Condensed means that we're taking a lot of hair at once and bringing it forward to cut it. I'M going to do the same thing with the rest of this section. Bringing it forward to me like this, take a little bit of that old section here, bring it forward towards me twist it around flip it, and then i see my guide and i go through, and i cut just like that. I really chop it up with the scissor. Obviously work for clean lines, uh and cleanliness with it, but chop it up now, what's happened and what's really cool about this is that what's cool about that is when i lift this hair up, we've got. Let me take a straight across section here: you can see we get this, oh no! You can't see this would help. Okay, so pull this up and you can see you get a short to long line. So that's gon na fall, layered and fun like this. All right, let me spin, you can see all the layers that happen in the cut tons of layering pop through it. Nothing feels too built out because we cut the shape the way that we really wanted it to be. We wanted it to kind of fall. Nice even feel to it nothing's too bulky, because we went over 90 degrees. We were aware of the head shape throughout the cut, but you could see even as a wavy cut, how well this would fall. How nice it would look here is my thing uh with this class, as i'm going through it, let's see where we're at timing wise, so we're already 56 minutes in so i think our challenge for this class is going to be. I can do two things. Let'S put it i'm going to put it out to you guys, i can do one more cut, because otherwise this class is going to be hours and hours long. So i can do one more cut or i can blow this dry show you the end results uh. You guys, let me know in the chat right now. What would you like to see uh this blown dry finished and we can have our blow dry dance party thing. You guys can dance all blow dry, i guess um and then or i can cut another cut and i probably won't show you a dry end result. So let me know in the chat. Oh, let me see all right. We got one. So two boats blow dry end result. Please got another one cool thanks millions. I learned how awesome all right cool, so we got end result here. Rita is saying one more cut, one more cut, one more cut, whoa all right blow dry finish! Oh! This is this. Is tough? This is a tough split here. Blow dry blow dry blow dry, one more cut! All right i mean you guys are. This is very uh blow-dry wait who's! This jess, who had the idea for the class is saying blow dry. So i think that's a good idea uh, because a lot of you guys are saying blow dry. A lot of you guys are saying caught two and i really like you guys. You don't even know how cool that is that you guys want me to keep going, even though we've been doing this for an hour, so i'm gon na blow drive um. I wan na show you guys the end result. I feel like it's gon na, be a better finale to the class. If i felt like i could get five haircuts in then i would have done that and maybe i could have and maybe one day i'll do it with a razor and we can really bust out some haircuts, we'll revisit this idea um, but for today i think This is a super cool layered cut that i want to show you guys uh what it looks like so um, let's get into the blow dry product application all of that stuff. Let me flip over here um. Thank you guys. So much uh make sure if you can just share the show, we're about to uh start drawing real, quick and then um all right cool, so we're gon na use the five damage. This is the protective shield um. Let me see if i can zoom in here. So this is cool because it's a uh, a uv, it protects from uv damage and also thermal damage. So i'm gon na put that in the hair. Obviously she um this is sadly the end of her life. Really not really she's got many haircuts left to live. So uh that was too much. I do that every time, so a little bit goes a long way. Do a couple pumps of that product through it smells delicious, actually smells like christina. She uses this stuff, so i smell it and i think of think of her. That'S my wife, by the way, those of you that are new in the chat. The ogs know that, but those you guys are new christine is my business partner and life partner, all right. So now i brushed that product through the other good part about blow drying. This is, i can do a little bit of dry cutting at the very end for you, guys, which i think you'll enjoy as well um all right, so that product's in now, i'm going to use joyco power, whip. Um super good foam, not gon na use a ton of that either it's got a real strong hold to it um. So i'm gon na put that in the hair, all right. Okay, so now we're gon na start the blow dry. I'M gon na use a good old samvia blow. Dryer love this thing: super powerful, um, fun little jet rocket blow dryer to use uh. Let me put on some good vibes, happy music and i'm gon na turn the mic down a little bit. Um i'll go through certain tips about the blow dry, but for the most part i'm gon na i'm gon na power dry it to 80 percent dry um. That'S why i have the thermal protectant in there and the foam i want to get that set. Then i'm going to start doing some more brush work and all of that, but i want to get the majority of the moisture out. First, all right, so here we go all right. So now what i'm going to do is i'm going to go through section off the top clip it away we're going salon reality on this guys. Nothing fancy here, not that we're not fancy in the slot. That'S what i mean. Okay, that's not what i mean yo now, i'm going to add in a little joyco thermal protecting spray uh. Now that we're 80 dry. I want to make sure i keep that thermal protection going, because this is where the hair can get. The most damaged is during the blow dry when the hair is dry. So i got that in there and now i'm going to smooth this to do dry, cutting, and i want you guys to see it. I don't want to blow it out big and hide anything there's going to be some disconnection, so i want to go through and show you guys how i take care of that. So with that being said, um understand that this is a blow dry for smoothing the hair out and getting it ready to dry cut all right. Here we go okay, so so you up uh uh uh almost there. I literally picture all of you guys at home. Just clapping not clapping like for me, but like clapping for that song, like just at that moment, i'm just picturing, it doesn't mean you have to do it, i'm just picturing it. Okay, we're getting there. So now, what i'm going to do is i'm going to iron. It out um, so the ironing is one of the most important parts so basically to break down the uh the blow dried that i did um the blow dry was a flat wrap around the head uh. The reason i do that is to kind of build in the shape of the head for dry cutting. Now what i'm gon na do is i'm gon na go through and i'm gon na iron it out um. This is a paul mitchell, neuro or no palmetto express ion style. So i'm going to use that iron to work through it and i'm really just going to build in the curve of the head talked about this in past classes, but um when you really when you want to do dry, cutting you want to get the hair full. Like kind of flowing with the head shape, because that way, you can see any of the weird weight areas that happen, and you can address it. If you curl the hair or you blow out the hair use a even a round brush you build volume, and sometimes it can hide different weight issues. So this i like to smooth it out polish it out and then i'll really be able to see where the hair doesn't lay correctly on the head shape and then that'll help me uh adjust it dry. So i'm just working my way around the head now uh mid shaft ends. I already got the base with the blow dryer. So really i just want to get the ends smoothed out and then we'll be good to go. You guys doing in the chat all right. Here'S my next question for you guys to answer in there. Um. Are you back in the salon? Yet yes or no back in the salon? Yes or no camera's off, go to this not dead, just off? Okay, we're good we're good! No christina says no georgio says no, i'm a no two. By the way, i'm a no somebody was asking uh in the chat. If i would ever do a live model on one of my videos, i have done live models on the videos um. It'S not my favorite thing to do uh, because my favorite thing is to teach and not to uh, try to please a model. So it's not my favorite thing to do. I do understand the uh value of doing a live person um. I try to make this as realistic and really just educational as possible um, and i like to be able to do whatever i want to do on the hair, not whatever the model restrictions are so, and i come up with like the ideas for these classes. Prior to the class, except for freestyle friday, it gets a little bit more uh open for you guys to suggest, but for the most part i come up with the idea for the class the day before i put thought into it and execute it the next day, If i have a model, that's a totally different thing: that's not really it's teaching in a different way! So i'm not saying i would never do it for sure um! It'S just never really in my plan, plus we're not allowed to be around people right now, so that makes it hard too, but eventually uh when the sun's back open. I'M sure i can bring one of my clients in here or something and it would just be a fun kind of hangout and you know i'll mic them up and everything and they can talk to you guys be kind of fun. So that's a possibility for sure what we got yeses, some yes more, yes, is open than i thought. So that's good news a little nervous that the rise in uh cases in florida is gon na slow things down again, but that could just be the media chatting. It up too, i don't know all right. Almost there, i'm working my way diagonal back. I try to go diagonal when i'm ironing so that i don't leave creases in the hair um sometimes horizontally. You can do that. So that's a little quick fun fact there.