How To Shoulder Length Layered Haircut Techniques Tutorial

Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from free salon, education.com and after you check out this video make sure you go to our website free salon, education, comm and join our email list. It'S our blog. We send it out weekly every Monday, so you get the news on everything that we're doing and updates on all the videos that we put out and just really anything cool that we're doing you're going to get through that. So it's going to go instantly to you. Every Monday morning, you'll get you're splitting hairs, episodes and everything else so make sure you go to our website sign up for that, and I hope you enjoy this video hey guys. This is Matt Beck from free salon, education.com and I'm here with my pal Thaddeus Boland and we are gon na walk you through his latest haircut. It'S a chop inspired. So what I like about this haircut is it's pretty much the big trend with celebrity hair right now. It'S what do you do with this long hair so that wanted to get us started? Hey man! I'M really excited to talk about this, because it's good really show you how to remove a lot of weight when you're coming off a lot of hair, which I've noticed said like when I was a just starting out. As Silas said, it was like really tough to like chop somebody's hair off, and then you had all this like awkward weight like just hanging around the perimeter. So what I always like to start off with is a nice clean, sectioning and making sure that I'm working with the shape of my clients head so not only think about her shape, but also think about our density. I'M sectioning off a nice chunk off the top of her head. So that way we have a lot of hair to play with during the dry, cutting for not only the fringe but as well as the layering yeah. I think you make a great point about hair stylist and when we do these cuts, it's like what do you do with the medium length cut, and this is a great example of how to remove the right amount of weight so that you don't have that big Chunky layering, like you're, saying like what we've all created in beauty school. This is a good way to make that that go away absolutely and like. You also have to think about like the shoulders like which way the shoulders really pushing the hair, which way ears are going to push in the hair, because when you go medium, light like the hair is lighter. It'S going to be being pushed around at this point. Right, as you can see, I'm keeping our nice clean sectioning so that way, the sections of that not working with or staying out of my way like there's, nothing more annoying, not to me, while doing a haircut then having a piece of hair from my next section. Getting in the way of my comb as I'm trying to get a nice a clean line to cut - and it looks more professional absolutely so I tried to try to flash a good good look at sectioning, but sectioning is important and you can see how clean your Lines are you why don't you go over the razor part, so I really love the razor, especially using it in a horizontal fashion, for this haircut, because by doing this, you're going to get a really diffused perimeter so right off the bat you're going to start off With softer lines, removing weight and as we're going to go through the sectioning, we're going to focus on like the stroking of the razor in different fashions. So this first cut just getting the guideline in there. I'M taking a shorter stroke to make sure that oh, we had like a little bit more of a solid foundation like so that I can see the hair through my next guide yeah. I think the key thing for me in any any haircut but with razor cutting people jump too quickly into grabbing big thick sections, and this is a great example of just showing how how you should take nice, fine sections and then change the way that you use. The razor and that's what's going to affect the weight in the haircut absolutely yeah, even with a razor like you're, still going to want to make sure that you're taking like using good technique using good, sectioning and you're, going to notice that I stay consistent with the Strokes that I use throughout this section on not only the sections I'm picking up, but also when I move to the right side, because I'm working on the left side. You gain going through the layering over there and just removing a good amount of weight. Because Abby's got a ton of hair, so the last thing I wanted was for after we styled her to still have a ton of hair when we're looking for a nice PC haircut, something that's gon na give her a lot of movement, yep and and you're keeping Square in the back, absolutely so pushing that weight right right to set right behind the ear and right where the density kind of starts to go away. So I like that about this haircut as well. This is what's funny. Is you weren't in the salon yet today, but I actually did this exact haircut on my guest. Oh nice, I had a girl come in and she wanted to chop her hair off. It was pretty much the same situation. She had a little slight wave to her hair, so I got out the razor and I did this exact sectioning exact haircut. It worked great yeah. The circus came great great, like whether you have a client that has straight hair or wavy hair or if they do have wavy hair, if they want to style it smooth, because he's going to look fabulous like either way yeah. It'S funny that you say that, because uh two days after I did this haircut, I had one of my clients who she also has a ton of hair and has like a nice wave to it. She came in and she's like that. It'S time I'm kind of awful. My hair, like I need to change its we're about to get into spring we're about to get in summer like I want to start these seasons off differently yeah, and you know it that's what I love. I love that we're putting out these haircuts that our salon, friendly, you know like this - is something that you could use throughout your whole entire day. So, oh absolutely just make sure you change the razor blade yeah yeah anytime. I start a razor cut. I always like to make sure that I have a fresh blade that way. I know that I'm let me kind through the hair and the hair is just going to cut like butter and dad's using a feather razor, which is probably one of the most popular razors. You can get it's got a guarded blade, so you're not going to cut yourself with it, but the blades are really sharp a lot of times, even the one that you get in beauty school. Usually, the blade is so flexible that as soon as you start cutting into the hair - oh yeah, it's it's just not strong enough! So I love that feather houses. We have it on shop, FAC, calm, so or just free salon, education, calm, but it's it's affordable and it's a quality razor that you're going to love. So why don't you talk about? This is an interesting part. So this is what my favorite uh texturizing techniques, with a razor I've only ever heard it. I'Ve been used as like more of like an etching technique, and what you're going to be able to do is really use the razor as a pencil, I'm even holding it. Like a pencil and I'm just going in there and removing the weight almost as if I was point cutting, but I'm pulling the hair straight down, so I can actually see like how much weight I'm removing at point in time. If your guest has finer hair and not as much density, you may not want to use this technique on them. Yeah, you probably would have got the same result already from the using the bigger strokes of the razor in the first place, but this isn't my first time cutting Abbey's here. So I knew that uh. We could definitely go through and take some texture out, even while our hair is wet, which is another thing you want to think about because, as you cut through it with the razor you're going to be taking out a little bit more weight than you would, if You were cutting a with your dry cleaning, shears, uh and kind of while the hair is dry right. So I even uh sectioned her out before we did the texturizing. So that way, I made sure that I was focusing on the weight that was underneath the occipital, as well as the hair that was coming from that occipital. What, if you look like you're, not grabbing that whole entire panel of hair you're, going you're, scooping underneath and see that you can see the hair underneath that section right there you're just pulling the hair that has to do with that section and too often we grab The whole entire thing just comb it up in our hand and just start cutting away and, and you lose your guide there - you don't have a guide so late. This works well so and then throughout the sides I'm just going to hell of it ever elevate. It ever so slightly so that wake is a like a little bit of a gradient right through there, because we have less hair or hair on the side of our head, because we have an ear there, which yours typically don't grow a hair, at least not as Long as that's coming out, hopefully dude that would be really creepy yeah. If you got your hair that long, I recommend, could you imagine if we were doing your trims, yeah you're, just gon na walk up cut it actually uh? What was the next time Joe, is a Joe coming in okay, so on, but uh we're just going to use that elevation as the texturizing, because one we're going to go through and put in a lot of texture with the dry cutting. And I don't want to remove too much weight because of having less hair here. So we're just going to use that elevation to remove a little bit of weight and then uh focus more on the weight when it hair's dry. And I think it's important to to look at the fact that you comb over and over again you'll comb. It you'll cut it, and then you recom it just to make sure that you get every hair and they'll all line up nice because sometimes with a razor. Some hairs can snag or whatever so, especially when you're using a guarded razor um. So I think it's good you go through and you check it and just make sure the line take your time with a haircut. That'S what people come back for is when you spend time really focusing on each section. Oh absolutely and like the last thing you want to be going through with the blood dry and then all of a sudden find a hair. That'S like six inches longer than the rest of them, especially when you're chopping somebody's hair off like we did right and let's look at the importance of that top section right now, because we're about to get into that. So I think the way that it rides the parietal and goes down. I mean you're gon na. Do this quick blow-dry, but I think blow-dry this faster this, but you can see the overlay of that that section, because now it's all smoothed out, you can see the overlay of that section and how it falls. Why did you pick that sectioning him on the top? That way, well, I wanted to give like her some extra hair up there for going through and doing the layering. So that way we had a ton of movement cuz, as you can see like she, like, just dropping that hair down best prime example of how much hair she has yeah. You couldn't even see the bottom yeah like you can see the guideline. She essentially had an undercut for like a short haircut and in a long haircut right, but what I'm doing right now is, I left a ton of Harran, because not only are we doing a layering with that top hair, but we're also doing a nice uh fringe, Like that's going to frame her face very nicely, and I wanted to make sure that we had enough hair to give her a lot of framing around her face. But it was nice and layered as well as be able to get in there and have enough texture throughout the haircut and to give her lots of movement and really be weightless yeah. And I want to talk about this tool that you're using. We can talk about that because this I'm madly in love with these scissors that there's like the first scissors. I want to steal from that because I don't have one, but it's the blacksmith fit Puffin from Mizutani and he let me use them the other day in the class we were, he was teaching this haircut actually we're doing a dry, cutting class and I've never really Used the dry, cutting scissor and you decided to get one yeah. This was the first pair that I've ever used me. I had any embarass, always dry, kinda chairs they just it intrigued me. This is a shape and treat me yeah and the concept of having to share just for dry cutting, which, like we all, should do like a good amount dry, cutting not to fix your haircut right but to like really put your signature on it really customize it To your club yeah and add the details and just the buttery feel of that scissor. When I went into even a mannequin head it was like. I fell in love. I I called miss Donny, I'm like I have to have one of these so um. I think it's cool as you go through it. You can see the point cut. You can see how how easily it's removing the hair - and I love that this technique that you're doing here, it's elevating the fringe, so you're cutting a face frame. You'Re, cutting a bang but you're doing it with elevation, instead of pulling it down by the nose you're going in there and elevating it to remove the weight around the face. Absolutely Abby, like we've, said the countless times I were probably up to like five times or six times up by now. She'S got a ton of hair, so I elevated it probably a little bit higher than I would typically yeah just because you don't want to have like too much layering on somebody who has less density, but the more density you have like the more layering you're going To be able to get away with right, so we definitely wanted to get in there and release some weight. So it didn't. Look like we barely touched anything or just did some slide cutting around her face, because I wanted it to be like some distinct bangs right, but definitely some light bangs. I didn't want, like a super heavy bang, alright. So what we're doing right here is a teasing cutting technique. I love this for not only just any more texture lately going through and texturizing, or actually doing some cuts you're going to want to use a smaller section of hair, then you're typically cutting with layers. Just it that way, you can have a little bit more control of what you're cutting, but what you're going to be doing is, as you're moving your shears towards your guests, head you're, closing your shears very smoothly and very slightly so that way, you're not actually tearing There yeah you're cutting each piece like very, very, very slightly each each way, so that way it gives a nice diffused look yeah as you're pushing your scissor in it's just a slight close, and then, when you release it, you open them up slightly. So it's just as that motion goes in you just slightly close. It work it back and forth. That'S why it's it's good to call it kind of a teasing technique, because you are pushing the hair in a little bit but you're not trying to just carve away at it. Oh yeah, and that's exactly what why I say it. That way is because, like you don't want like, I don't want somebody to just like hold this year's uh slightly open and just like start shredding right. What you're going to be doing is so you are pushing the hair, which is why it teases it's a pretty extreme technique. You may want to warn your guests before you. Do it, but uh it's a fun technique. It gives a great look like you can see. It'S very soft like and we haven't even finished with the style. Yet this is like the anti having your guests come in and say I want the three layer: haircut, oh yeah. This is five billion kajillion later right. It gives it a smooth feel to the layering. You don't see a stack of layers whatsoever because of the teasing technique. On top, like you built the structure with the razor at the bottom. For the most part, I mean it's, it's the diffused structure, but there is some structure into it and rhyme and reason now. You'Re just going through and shattering the top to lay over top of what you did and that's you know, that's what really makes this haircut cool and work well, what you're going to want to look for like when you're going through this haircut, you can put these Layers in is your guide line is coming from the hair that you cut with the razor, as well as your previous section. So once you see both of those fall out, you're going to actually want to pinch, the hair you're going to be able to see it. Pretty well in this slide right here and if I decide to do a cut there, we go so see I just pinched the hair, so I'm not holding it like in the traditional layer form right. You just get more tension. Oh yeah, you're gon na be able to get more attention like the hairs like when we slip in through your fingers, as well as um, trying to hold it if you're or cutting layers. Normally, it's just going to be painful, like a very frustrating you're, probably give up after the first time so you're going through, and I notice on the on the weak side, you over direct back a little bit more and I think that's cool, because it's gon na Push a little bit more weight to the weak side and fill it up a little bit, and here your your more rounding the corner, because it's a heavier absolutely! You always want it like. If your guest has a distinct part that is very dramatic or not center, yeah you're definitely going to want to make sure that you treat that weaker side differently, because just like having a on the sides of the head in general, there's gon na be less hair. There so yeah I mean we all have that guest. It'S like. I don't understand why this side is longer than this side. Well, sometimes it's supposed to be like that there there's different weight on each side of the head, especially if you have a side parting. So you know you got it, you got to kind of share that with your guests, help them understand it, but this is a perfect way to go around the head and and lighten up the heavy side. Did we already talked about on splitting hairs, uh things, hair dressers, don't want to talk or want to say to their clients, but don't I think we did. I think we had a segment on it. I you know I we have one coming up with. You know things that that I we wish, we could tell them. Okay, I think it. I think that's what you're saying well I'll give up my two cents on this one, hopefully without destroying it, but I always like to give my clients like as much information as possible, because there's so many times that I've had a client tell me that they want Something and then after we do it they're, like I didn't realize it was going to do that. Why didn't you tell me that it was going to do that right so like having that client? He says this layer is shorter than this layer. Explain to them be like well, you have less hair on this side because of how you part your hair like, so we need to layer it differently right, like it's, not a secret like like, don't try to like step around. I love it even though you're working and dry cutting right now, you're still nice and clean you're thoroughly going through, like you've, picked up that section a couple times just to make sure because we're we're doing techniques that are not precise, so you you could go through And check them and recheck them, and now yeah you can see how those layers just kind of shatter through. I love that I love this. Look. Oh yeah, it's stunning because, like you, can have a very conservative client in your chair or somebody who's about to go to the no effects or Rancic concert and wants to like just like put like half a pound of wax in their hair to like it like. As much texture in there as possible, they're gon na say, like have found a weed know why I was like crazy going where's he going. I think that things you don't know is that weed is actually really good for styling hair right. So Dre, I just quickly pop that right into curls um. It was the weed yeah, but she I look at that. I mean it's just it's it's a great look. I love the chop to it. It'S definitely one of those things. Yeah, there's the before she's tossing it around she's, saying goodbye yeah. She was a little freaked out at the at the beginning, but now I mean look it look at the transformation cool waves. Do it she talked the entire time. I think that when you get nervous and you're about to chop your hair off she's just talking and talking but look at the layering, I think it looks really cool that I think he did a great job yeah. I told her. She wasn't allowed to be nervous because she stopped me during my workout to actually say hey. I want to chop off all my all my hair. Thank you well guys, thank you so much for watching and hanging out with Freesat on education comm. We appreciate your support. Please subscribe to us on youtube. Follow us on facebook, find us on Instagram and all the above and yeah check us out, uh and yeah. That'S it anything that, thanks again for tuning in new ice cream is bad bull. Nice! Alright, we'll see you guys on the next video you