Medium To Short Haircut Tutorial

All right so we're going to start off by sectioning. The mannequin sectioning is a really important part of hair cutting because it plans out exactly what you're going to do with this particular haircut. What i'm going to do is section it right at the parting. On the left hand, side i'm going to section it straight down the division line, which is the high point of the head down to directly behind the ear, and then i'm going to take a little square out of the temple area. That'S going to play a key role in the haircut later on when we cut it dry, so i braid off what i want to be disconnected. Sometimes i like to separate the way that i section off, hair so i'll use clips on things that i'm going to cut wet and then i'll braid things i'm going to leave for later. Sometimes i change the color of the clip. It just keeps you more organized throughout the haircut, so this sectioning is basically two small squares in the temple area. Then i have the bigger rectangle for the heavy side of the haircut and then i have a smaller square for the weak side of the haircut. Now. The scissor i'm choosing to use today is the scorum rusell mizutani scissor. It'S a special edition, scissor that we just became available on freesalon education.com. It'S a six inch scissor. It talked about the benefits that i really love about the scissor. Now you can watch it in action as we cut through this haircut. It'S just super powerful. It was one of my favorite things about the scissor. You could really feel the quality feel the power as you cut through the hair. So now i comb everything uh to the side. I part directly down center back and then i take diagonal forward sections to start my cut, i'm going parallel with the head shape. So what i'm trying to do is collapse. The head shape and create a nice soft feel to the back of the haircut will build up the weight when we get more towards the crown area. So right now, i'm still elevating the hair pretty high in this portion of the haircut, even though i'm up on the crown, because i want to bring that weight up much higher than i would normally do on a bob. That'S why this is more of a short haircut, not so much of a bob, but some people might still consider this a bob length, so we're working our way down the head shape, just smoothing that out this could be for a guest. That says, you know what it's a little too heavy down at the bottom. Maybe they weren't looking for that they want a little bit more stacked up. So this would be a great haircut for that so see still how high i'm lifting my fingers, i really want to remove a lot of weight from this haircut and get a nice smooth feel to the back and i'm tucking my fingers in so as i move Down the head shape, my finger angle will shift more towards the head so right now, i'm parallel coming off of the head shape and then, as i work my way down the head shape, you can see how my finger angle shifts also the way i hold the Scissor shifts because it makes me more comfortable, so i take my thumb out of the scissor the normal way, and i put it in the back um direction of the scissor just to create a more comfortable feel for the scissor. If you use a swivel scissor, you wouldn't have to do this. You don't have to do this in regular hair cutting either. It just seems to be more comfortable for me as i work down certain sections, so you can see how we've kind of pushed some weight forward that all comes with that over direction. So as we worked our way down, we over directed everything back pushed a little bit of weight to the front. Now i'm going through a scissor over comb. This is where this scissor really shines, which i one of my favorite things about. The scissor is working with it scissor over comb, it just blasted through the back, but really i just did that scissor over comb as a almost like a cross check through the back, because i went through and cut diagonal forward almost like diagonal vertical um in my Sectioning in my fingers, so then i go through horizontally with the scissor over comb, which just cleans everything up, make sure i'm nice and consistent with my hair cutting so same thing on this side. The only difference is my fingers are now pointing down talked about this. A lot in the past, but if you've never seen any of the videos, the reason i'm now pointing down is you have to stay consistent with the way you comb. Comey is what makes you a great hair cutter. It'S not has nothing to do with cutting the hair. Has everything to do with how you comb it? How you place the hair? How clean you take your sections, so what we're doing is we're pushing the new hair towards our guideline. Our guideline is coming from the center being traveling across the head, but you want to push that new hair, which is coming from the side into the guideline. Instead of pulling your guideline from where it lives over. That'S just going to stretch your hair cut out and then you're going to end up with two sides, one side longer than the other. So now i'm just going to go through and soften off the graduation that we created in the top crown area of the haircut. So i went through with a little bit of high elevation just to round off that corner a bit and then i go through and just a little point cutting to soften right at the low crown area horizontally, just to soften the shape and we'll go through scissor. Over comb, then, what i'm going to do is blow dry, the entire back section, the back half of the haircut, because i want to see how it's laying - and i like to go through section by section in a haircut to make sure that it's right before i Move on to the next section, so you can see that shape. That'S been built up now. What we've done is we over directed all the hair and the wet cut back towards us so now what i want to do is elevate it straight up vertically and just point cut into it to remove a slight bit of weight, because sometimes when you over drag Stuff back, it's going to be a little bit heavier than you want it to be in the end result. So i just over direct it back and do a little bit of point cutting to soften it up. So now we're going to work on the side section of the hair just directly above the disconnection, and what i want to do is over direct that back to my previously cut section. So i'll get my guideline from the side of the head right at that division. Point then we're over directing everything above the ear. What that's going to do is give me a little bit of length pushed forward and also remove quite a bit of weight because we're following the round of the head, so it'll be a nice soft uh angle to the side of the hair. But it pushes that weight forward, so it'll be a nice soft. Look. So now we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side taking that guide from the bottom and i want to create a short to long portion throughout the top of the haircut. So the longest point is going to be over the part and i'm following the head shape from the rest of the haircut down. So just allowing that longer piece to sit on the top kind of gives them some flexibility throughout the top of the haircut. But it also blends the haircut on the side if they style it back so once i get that cut down now i let the disconnections out, i add a little bit of the bracado mousse and i'm gon na go through and blow dry the rest of the Haircut, nice and smooth now it's gon na look a little funny as we start to blow dry this haircut only because we have those disconnections in there, but trust me we're going to cut into those disconnections. So it won't look like you. Have those long pieces hanging down the great thing about leaving the disconnections in the haircut is that now we can go in and customize them to fit the haircut that we're looking for. So you can start to see that shape that happens on top and how it kind of collapses right before the disconnection, and then the disconnection gets nice and thick. So that's what we're gon na do is go into that with a razor and cut into it, so that we can soften it, connect it to the haircut and give it a nice cool flow to it. So go through with our vibra straight iron. Just to get it nice and polished and then we're going to use our carving comb razor. This is a really cool tool. We have on freesalon education.com it's 34.95, it's a great price and to add to your kit and it cuts dry, hair really well, but also cuts, wet hair really well so we're going through with our 100 carved side of the carving comb and just pinching the hair And sliding the razor through to create our lines. So we want this to be nice and broken nice and soft. So it's a heavy stroke with the razor which will create some kind of light airy pieces through there, and then i just pinch and cut so you can see how it just breaks it up. I like the pieciness of that that haircut i like the shattered. Look. That'S the whole purpose of the razor. If i wanted more of a blunt look, i would go in with a scissor and then i can even go through with our bang area and just soften that a little bit now we're going to do what we call kind of a point cutting technique with the Carving comb the cool thing about the carbon comb, is it cuts on both sides, so it's got 100 cut side and a 50 cut side. So we just go through lift up the hair. You can slide the carving comb across your fingers and it point cuts and takes out a ton of density throughout the haircut and you get that kind of textured pc look um really easily, which is pretty cool. Now we're gon na go with our procado carve. It'S a texture cream and i'm gon na use that to style, and what i like to do is run that through my hands for just about 30 seconds just to get it. It starts to firm up in my hands and then, as i go into the haircut it styles it a lot more. It doesn't give it a wet look to the haircut, so you can see all that texture that pops out using those disconnections using the texture techniques, cutting those shorter layers, and that is our end result. Hope you guys like it. Let me know you