Short Pixie Hair Cut (Square Graduation) | Behind The Chair |

Welcome to that I have hair. My name is James Atkinson. Thank you for joining me in this week's tutorial. This one is the square graduation, a fantastic short haircut on curly or straight a salon winner and one that you will have had requested thousands of times in your careers and the more succinct and easily you can pull it off. You will have a much easier day in the salon, that is for sure. So without any further ado, I just want to say two big, thank you to everybody that has subscribed hit that thumbs, but Burton left me comment down below this week last week and when ever since we started this channel, I massively appreciate you doing those things. It all helps to grow the channel, so please continue with that, and the other thing I wanted to say was a big thank you to this week's new patreon subscribers. I did the first patreon live session on Monday, so if you want to head over to the patreon page and check that out, you can subscribe and watch all of the episodes on the archive there. Anytime, you want, and this week's patreon are Diane Emma Andrew Amy, Lido Jenni under and Donna. Thank you so much guys. It is massively appreciated everybody who has joined the patreon. It is totally wonderful to have you on board. You guys are all helping to bring the life of hair digital Academy to life and also as a little bonus. The first 100 patreon, we'll all have lifetime access to the life of hair digital Academy. Once it is set up and running. I'Ve got such big hopes and ambitions for that and heritage tool Academy, and I cannot wait for you to all see what I have in mind. Have a wonderful week like share subscribe comment. All those good things really help the channel. So please do them just even if they find one thing in this video useful to you and I'll see you all next time for another episode at the life of that. Okay, we're going to start this haircut with the pre section. We have taken a simple horseshoe section running through the parietal Ridge and then section that off cleanly into a horseshoe section that you see on top. There, then taking a horizontal section from the center of the up septal bone through to the top of the ear. And we have now got three clear sections to work from. We then take a center section straight through the center back of the bottom section. We are angling, our fingers, approximately 40 degrees, or so following the shape of the head down into the nape. When you are cutting this particular haircut, each subsequent section is then over directed to the previous, so section one is pulled straight out from the head, which was the first session. You saw me cut section two is then over directed on to section 1, then we have section 3 over directed onto section 2. This builds up graduation due to our finger angle, but also this gentle / direction to each previous section follows the head shape round slightly, but also builds up weight behind the ears. This is not essential for every short square graduation, but certainly helps with the hind the ear area and connecting into the extended length that is round the sides dependent on the length of the sides. You would like to achieve always work with a clear guideline in mind. For me, clear guidelines are the secret to a successful haircut. If you cannot see that guideline clearly, please retake your section and pull the hair out from the head shape again. Also, the size of each section you take is incredibly important. If the sections are wider than one to one and a half centimeters, you will start to create / direction in each section you take. This can have a very negative impact as you work through your sections. So please be aware that when you are taking your sections that you are not pulling the hair too far away from natural form, we are deliberately over directing in this particular instance. And that is because we want the hair to fall in a very particular way. But if we are not deliberately over directing, then we need to be 100 % sure that we not creating excessive out of direction once we are happy with the shape we have created in the back, we can just drop down the central section and then connect from The bottom section in the nape area, up into this section that runs above the Obsidian holding the hair at the same angle and cutting exactly the same line 40 degrees. In this particular instance. It could be 45 degrees, it could be 35 degrees. It really just depends on how much shape you would like to build up around 40 to 45 degrees would be sufficient to get a lot of shape into someone's hair more than that, and you can start looking very boldly and heavy. But that's okay, because if you wanted that, especially on curlier hair types say my haircut, for instance having it be on 45, greens can sometimes be a positive thing, because the hair swells into different shapes, because my hair is very curly. So bear that in mind. When you're assessing the hair texture you're about to cut work with each subsequent section, now pulled straight out from the head shape, we are traveling around now from the back of the head straight through to the front hairline, still keeping our sections 1 centimeter or under. But we are consistently taking the same size section in this particular instance. I am taking a 1 centimetre section, take a clean section as you work and make sure that you pull the hair straight out from the head, and you can clearly see the guide from the section before making sure that the section that you pick up does not Interfere with the hair that you have not cut yet there is the left hand side complete. We will now simply repeat this process on the right hand, side doing exactly what we did before, taking each section straight out from the head and connecting it to the hair below in the center back working our way through to the front right hand, hairline our finger Angle when cutting hair is so important, not only do we need to be aware of the angle that we are holding our fingers to determine the shape of the header, but we also need to be thinking about the tension that we are placing on the hair. As we pull it out from the head and our our fingers straight, are we holding our fingers straight as we cut our fingers our guide to most haircuts? They are an incredibly important part of every haircut. We need to think of them as another tool, not just our hands, but something that is fundamental in creating a successful haircut, so always be aware of what your fingers are doing. I personally never cut past my second knuckle because in between my second knuckle and the base of my finger is a large gap, this large gap changes the tension that I create on the hair. So it is important for me to be aware of my hands if you'd like to know if you have a large gap in between each of their fingers above the base hold your hands up with a closed finger point it towards the light, and if you can See light the base of your fingers, there is less tension at the bottom and you should not be cutting apart. Your second knuckle once you've cut the sections and you can drop down your horseshoe and you're going to do exactly the same thing in the crown. I'Ve split the hair from the crown to the top of the ear just so that I can work with the natural fall of the hair in this area. You will also note that I checked my haircut horizontally once I'd finished at the underneath sections. Cross checking is ultra important guys. It gives you a good idea of whether you have completed your sections by pulling them square out from the head or you'd created any excessive / direction or finger tension. It is really really important to do this before you move on. We are following a very simple basic structure with throughout this haircut, we are just going to continue holding the hair out about 40 to 45 degrees from the head shape and building up the weight. As we move through, you will notice. The hair on top now is becoming very low, but the hair that we initially cut was extremely short and effectively. We are yes cutting curtains before anybody comments down below how we style those curtains of what we do afterwards will make all the difference. Having this very simple basic wet shape in the bag is so important guys, as I mentioned in the intro, it's one of those things that I cannot mention enough times in my videos that you really really do need to have a very, very good understanding of the Basic cutting techniques, it makes your time in the salon so much easier. We have now dried the hair completely flat and we are using scissor over comb to refine our graduation, both in the nape and through the sides. Scissor own comb is another vital technique to have in your tool kit. If your scissor over comb skills need a bit of work, then rest assured is one of those areas that you will never regret practicing you can see. I am just working away any weight lines that I have created either using the hair through my fingers. As you can see now, this is a version of finger over comb or I don't know what it's called really, but it works so beautifully for adjusting any weight created on that top section. You simply pick up the hair and use a scissor over comb action through your fingers and elevate as you do, a wonderful technique, one that I was taught many moons ago and I use daily in the salon. Now we are moving on to the more detailed refining of this haircut, the weight reduction and how the fringe area might sit. It is very, very heavy at the moment, but we are going to address that in just a second. For me, it's about creating the most beautiful shape and then putting the texture in I'm using my favorite channel cutting technique here to start reducing the weight down and create texture and movement in this very, very precise shape. This channel cutting technique for me is my absolute favorite way of reducing weight and bulk. It creates texture not only at the root area, but it does remove weight through the ends too again. Now we are looking to really modify this top area. Using this point, cutting technique to really amplify the texture and also reduce a little bit of the length as you work through your sections, always spend time, refining and making sure that you are completely happy with the work that you have created. And here is the finished. Result: I've styled it with texture, sweeping fringe and really exposed the graduated shape. You could, however, go about styling or cutting this in refining this shape. However, you could go about styling and refining this shape in any which way you choose. It is a wonderful haircut to have in your toolkit and one that I massively recommend that you practice and refine your skills on. I personally, like this expanded shape that has been created by doing this 40 to 45 degree angle throughout the haircut. I know a lot of you will want to work it flatter through the sides, but I am particularly fond of triangular hair shapes and you decide what you want to do as you work through. The haircut have a wonderful week and I shall see you all again on Wednesday for another episode of the life of