Welcome to the life of hair, my name's James Atkinson, and I first have to apologize for my croaky voice in this video. I'Ve got a bit of a cold at the moment, but I still wanted to bring you this video, because it's one of those haircuts that I think is so important to have in the tool kit and it's a bit out so soon ABC DVD classic. It'S the short round, graduation, one of those haircuts that when I learnt how to do it, I realized how vitally important it was to be able to execute it. Well, and I think anyone that's been on the shop five or more years should really have this. One nailed it's one of those haircuts. I wouldn't really first remembered being showing this haircut and watching it a million times on the ABC DVDs. I never thought I was going to be able to do, but once I got it, it was one of those haircuts that has stunned me the test and time I've used it so millions of times now. So, let's get on with this one and we'll see you at the end of the video stop with the pre section, as always on this haircut very, very simple square, pre section. This gives us the opportunity to leave lots of weight built up in the occipital bone area, which is very important for this haircut. The first section nearest the hairline and we're going to hold the hair between our fingers as a 45 degree angle. So our knuckles are tight to the head and our fingers are angled back towards us, as you just saw from the side view and from head on we're going to take subsequent sections. Once you cut out guide lengths that run diagonally backwards towards the nape area, keeping the 45-degree angle with our fingers is absolutely paramount. With this technique, each subsequent section is no more than a centimeter wide and we're keeping our fingers angles at 45 degrees with the head. In a neutral position, if your client is moving their head around a lot, please stress to them how important it is for the outcome of your shape. Then they keep the head in a neutral position as that you would remind them to uncross their legs. Should you be cutting a long length, always concentrate on clean section, guys taking clean set is of impaired amount importance when it comes to precision work. This is the first section in the nape. It'S just a continuation of the top section running down into the neck area. Where we were cutting tight to the head shape, each subsequent section is then over directed back to the previous section. This will build up shape towards the opposite of bone, always cross-check your haircuts as you go. It is better to cross-check earlier than later, when working on the opposite side of the head. I point my fingers down. As I said before, my knuckles were typed to the head, on the right hand, side for a right hander and, on the left hand, side. Our fingertips tight to the head - and I cut a 45 degree diagonal line once I've cut my first two or three sections and make sure that I cross-check cross-checking is, is so important at this point to make sure that you haven't gone too far off track. If you're happy with your balance, carry on keeping your fingers held at 45 degrees and cutting that diagonal line that travels back into the nape area, this is graduation, so it should be shorter and tighter at the bottom and building up in length quite quickly as it Gets higher up the head shape, remember to be over directing each section to the previous to make sure that you build up a great shape in the occipital bone area and make sure, when you're cutting the graduation that you're pointing your fingers into the opposite corner of The head that you are working on as my fingers are pointing down right over to the right hand, side corner of the nape as we look at the head now. This is so important guys. This will really help you build up that graduation, with beautiful symmetry. As we've worked across both sides, you now need to go back and cut off this small amount of weight that we've built up in the center back doing this technique, taking horizontal sections, elevating the hair straight from the head and just taking off any of the weight That this technique will naturally build up once you've done that, and you have completed this underneath side as far as the wet basic shape goes. The top is incredibly simple. We take horizontal sections that we comb down. We find our guide from our underneath sections and we cut a horizontal line that travels towards the front hairline, not too much tension at this point guys. It'S really important that we're not squeezing the hair too tight through our fingers, but we have got the hair gripped firmly. A thing to mention is to always work on consistently damp hair, whether that be on the slightly drier side or on the wetter side. This will always help with your consistency with precision haircuts. This, as I said in the intro, is a classic Vidal, Sassoon ABC technique and in ABC's they talk about consistent, dampness and even tension on the hair. So much and it is absolutely paramount, executing a perfect result. I remember when I first saw this haircut on the Vidal Sassoon ABC DVD. I fell in love with it instantly, and all I wanted to be able to do was execute it as well, as I had seen on the DVD, I'm still practicing guys, but after many many years of cutting this haircut over and over and over again, I feel, Like I can safely say, I can pull this one out the bag anytime, I feel like there's still parts of it. I'D like to improve on, but that's the joys have been a perfectionist once you get to the center. Make sure that you stop at that point and then move on to the other side and repeat the process, exactly as you did on the opposite side, horizontal sections, as even tension assumed, be possible but not strangling the hair and keeping the hair evenly damp. Once you have done that this technique is nearly done simply dry, it off using a simple wrap drying technique, making sure there's not too much elevation on the hair and then go back and refine. As I say in all of my cutting tutorials refine refine refine. This is what makes you stand out between you and everybody else. A quick tip with scissor over comb here guys is to make the scissors move twice as fast as the comb does. This will always ensure that the comb and the scissors are moving in synchronicity. Giving you seamless, scissor over comb scissor over comb is one of those techniques that I absolutely love and they said the finished results with the teardrop fringe that I've carved in there and that softer sweeping side from where the hair is pushed over to the right-hand side. This is an absolutely classic technique, one that every stylist should have in their tool kits. As I said in the beginning, there are so many ways to use and wear this haircut. You should all try and master it as best as you can, and there you have it a short round, graduation of a guy said of Vidal Sassoon, ABC classic and a haircut that can be used in so many different ways. I'Ve done it that it's fully connected. It'S the classic pure shape you can use disconnections. You can make the fringe longer. You can make the fringe shorter. You can do whatever you like to it. It is totally your call it's one of those haircuts that can just be adapted to whatever. So if you've enjoyed this, then please share it with your friends, subscribe to the channel and smash that thumbs up button. And if you don't like this, then double click the thumbs down button and I'll see you again very soon. For another episode of the life of hair
Comments
Health and gardening: Thank you so much James. Great video doing Sassoon cuts, absolutely brilliant idea. You did a wonderful job with the cut too
Face Up: Yes this is the IT cut right now where I am (Atlantic Canada) at least for my clientele. The best standard classic ever that can be textured and broken up beautifully, should you want it to be... love this! Great step by step on one of my favourite shapes! You rock!
Face Up: Love this so much! Your vids are my most favourite! Precise, perfect and best descriptions of what happening and why. I do want to do a Sassoon workshop sometime. Keep me posted if you’ll be offering one! I’d be happy to come learn from Canada!
krislupi66: Michael, can you do a video on the different ways of holding your cutting shears? That would be a life saver, thanks for the consideration in advanced and staying tuned to my notifications ✂️
Rain: GREAT cut. I love this cut and felt the same way about it when I saw the DVD. Demi Moore sported it in the movie Ghost and Chyna Phillips looked cute in it too, on the Wilson Phillips "Hold On" video. I modeled it for a creative hair artist when I was in my eartly twenties. LOL! OOH! it was made popular, too, when Bridget Fonda wore it in Single White Female. GORGEOUS!
Heather G: Beautifully done James! I'm curious if you would share one aspect of what you would like to improve. During you cutting the top I asked myself how much tension, and it was immediately answered. Thank you for the vid.
Praphasri Sukhilak: Thank you James, you are amazing. I can understand the cutting tecniques better than abc dvd , it is a great tutorial.
KhunnineJamieMelbourne Thai: Hi James. I would like to say to you. It is so great video.This is what I am looking for ages.I keep copying you. It helps me a lot. I love Vidal Sassoon technique.And you are great Educator. You are giving more and helping all hairdressers a around the world.That's my opinion. Thank you for sharing. Jamie Melbourne Australia
Hopper: Dear James, love all the vids you show. Thanks for sharing! Is it possible to show the hair cut of the late 70/early 80s? The layers which look like cascades. One runs through with fingers and the ectreme edges of the layers were shown. Sorry for my uneven description. Thanks!
Lin Chau: Thanks so much James . I love all your videos. I have learned a lot from it.
Robin: Brilliant! Love this style James
christhecelt: This is such a versatile cutting technique. A nice demo. Thanks.
kimmy0868: When cross checking the weight line, curl your fingers under before taking that lip off, it will help blend that line right out. GREAT CUT, I’m gonna try it on myself tomorrow, wish me luck lol
Mordecai Ribgy: Great video James, please make a video explaining the scissor hold technique. Thanks in advance
Kate Redsull: Hi James, when you start your haircuts how do you know how long or short to take them for different looks?
Mark Conway: I'm barber watching these love how easy you explain I'd say your great teacher to learn from
Pam souen: Thank you so much James. Could you please do the Lisa Rinna haircut please ?
paulabevan: A great haircut it was one of the 1st haircut i learned by a team that was working at Vidal sassoons i scare you now that was 1980 ish
O’ HAIR: Love the shape!
JD Blatz: Love it!
Alla Gorbacheva: amazing technique!
Hina Malik: I have no words of praise.Excellent James.lovely Hair cut.❤
Jen Dodd: Brilliant, thank you again
CARLO VÁSQUEZ: Love it
kathy neely: NICE !!!!!!!!! thank you so very much
Рашад Балакишиев: Супер
parveen khandelwal: More pixie cuts plz sir♀️♀️
Adrienne Boullianne: nice cut, nice jewelry, nice vid! hey, y'all in england need to take your vitamin D bc of low sunlight...! (sorry, cant help myself). thx james!
José Rustveld: James another Hit for me. Thanks
Angela Unique: Well done
mark tizard: Classic Sassoon
Perla Rodriguez: so nice