A Very Detailed Tutorial On How To Sew A Pixie Cut Fringe On A Dome Cap Using A Sewing Machine

Hi family thanks for coming back here once again, but if you're new here kindly subscribe to my youtube channel, please, like my video and turn on the notification bell, so that each time i post you'll be notified. So these are the tools we are going to be using for um the pixie cuts and i'm using the block head size, size 22 with a dome cup, and the dome cap is very light at the ends where the band is elastic. Band is is very light and so i'm adjusting it onto the block head and i'm going to mark the places i'm going to be sewing. The tracks on, or the hairpiece on, i start making on the band at the nap area and i make sure the tracks are going to be very close, because it's, the hair is light. You need to sew them closely together, so that you don't have um potholes or a lot of spacing in between, and this will prevent potholes when trimming it, because we definitely trim it and if they are not closely um sewn together, we are going to have depression. So we are going to have places where the hair will be very light, and you can see that that area is very light as compared to the other sides. So um, that's how i'm marking it. I don't think it's that visible for you to see, but i think you can make do with this so um, since it's a fringe, pixie cut whatever i do on the right side, i do it to the left side and the ceiling is going to be at The crown area that would be supposed the ceiling is supposed to be in the middle, i'm marking the dome cap with a crayon. There are different types of dome caps, but i prefer using the breathable ones, so they are very tiny holes in this one and the dome caps do vary because some of them have very thick buns, but the one i'm using has a very light band. So this is going to prevent the cup from shrinking. I'Ve tried using the dome caps with thicker bands and it didn't go well because the cap shrunk, but using this with a very light band, this particular type of dome cap, it came out perfect, so sewing a pixie cut on the dome cap is just okay. You shouldn't have to worry about it if you have the right dome cap to use, i'm still making the markets on the dome cup and will soon be changing the pattern. So please stay tuned when you get to this part, that's the sceptile area. You need to mark them closer than it was at the bottom. Pardon me my lines are not very straight, but it should work. So don't really so fast. You are making the right demarcations on the net. That should be fine. You shouldn't have to worry about it. Being straight, but when i'm sewing i'm going to be making it very straight, so that shouldn't be a problem and with where i'm marking from i start marking from the band. But sometimes i jump that particular step, because when i stitch with the machine on the band at the frontal area, it really shrinks the cap. So if you try on the cap before sewing when you saw the other tracks before um wearing it before sewing it onto the band and it feels big, then it's okay to sew on the band at the frontal area. But usually i skip that step and then, when i'm done sewing and i feel like i need to put something. Oh, i need to make the front fuller. I then can sew on the band, but when i'm sewing it, i make sure i use my fingers to straight and stretch it out to be able to prevent it from shrinking. So i'm marking the middle area, but i make sure the where i'm going to seal is directly at the middle. If not, you have your ceiling, shifting to the side, the left side or to the right side, which is going to look funny, but this is a fringe. So definitely the ceiling has to be in the middle. If you are able to make your demarcations or your lines on the dome cap, then we've crossed the first step of sewing on the dome cap with a sewing machine. So i'm going to be using the zigzag and then i put the speed on four because i want it to be fast and then i make the intervals of the stitches or the zigzag between three and four and then the tension. I make it also between three and four, so it depends on how far you want the stitches to go, but i i prefer using these measurements - and i put this on the higher speed, which is four and i make sure i put it on b, i'm using The butterfly sewing machine, so i put it on b, which is zigzag and it's perfect for me to sew and i'm going to be using the black pail 24 pieces and i'm going to begin stitching. So i'm going to start from the first line and then i'm going to go on with the same method or steps for the other tracks. I make sure i stitch back and forth at the beginning of each track and at the end of each track. I make sure i stitch back and forth so that my tracks will be secure. I don't want any hair sticking out when i'm done or when the customer or client is wearing it. Then it keeps coming off that thing can be so annoying. So i make it a point to do that all the time. So, as you can see, it's neatly sewn down and i'm going to be repeating the same steps on each track or each line that i've made i'm going to sew track. Each track is to one line until i get to the occipital area, where i would want to double it to make that place. Look fuller, sometimes doubling at a point will help you it's faster and it's better because the more tracks you stitch, the more likely your cup will shrink. So you can do that just to avoid shrinking off your cap and to spend less time stitching onto the cap. Mind you, you need to keep the cap flat on onto the sewing machine so that you can stitch to prevent any folding of the cap, because if any part of the cup folds it's going to shrink or it's going to be uncomfortable when worn. So, at all times, you must just make sure that the cup is flat onto the surface that you are sewing onto. I strongly believe that if you've been able to sew the first two or three tracks, then we can make it to the finish. This isn't difficult. So if you just follow these steps that i've given you'll be able to do it so don't be discouraged if it doesn't go on well, the first time just keep on practicing, you surely get it. I didn't get this thing in just one day: i've made mistakes with the first or two cups and i realized um. I had to make changes, because if this particular method doesn't work for me, i use another and, as i continued practicing it just went well. For me, so this shouldn't be anything discouraging if it doesn't go well, the first time your cup might be too small, it might be too big, but you can make changes to the next one that you make, but i'll definitely be making a video on how to Make a cup smaller a dome cap smaller when you are sewing a pixie cut like this or any other wig, because sometimes the dome caps are usually bigger. If my head size is size, 21 or 21 inches, and then the cap is bigger, i might have a little bit of air or balloon um at the hospital area, which means i'd have to reduce it before i start stitching, but in my next video or any Other video that i'm going to make i'm going to show you how to reduce it before you sew just to prevent that. But you must also know that. Okay, if this is the method i used for this particular cap, that it didn't that didn't work. For me, then, it means in your next cap. You must know what you did in the first one that didn't help you so you're going to be making adjustments or changes to that particular um area. So that should help you better your skill when it comes to sewing with a dome cap using a sewing machine. As you sew make sure your fingers are firmly placed on top of the um tracks so that it doesn't shift or move to any other area that you don't want to sew onto so just make sure you place your fingers on it. While you stretch out the cap, don't expand the cap, you are just laying it flat onto the surface so that it doesn't fold at any time. As you can see me, do i'm not stretching out the cap, because if this is an elastic, it has a bit of elastic in it. So if you stretch out the net, then it's going to be bigger, so i just make sure that i use my fingers to lay it flat. As i stitch my tracks, i'm going step by step and i'm still using the lines as my guide. So i'm going to sew on each and every single line that i made on the dome cup so far. This is what the inside of the cap looks like, but they are going to be excess threads which will be cutting them off anyways. So either you cut them as you stitch, or you cut them at the end of making the wake up. If you don't cut them out or off, they are going to be hanging out and your work is going to look very, very jetty. We are not giving up, we are still continuing. This may take a while, but we are not giving up. So let's do this. So you see the threads taken out, i'm going to be cutting them off very soon, but maybe that's going to be when i'm done or as i stitch so and i've gotten to the point where i have to go around onto the cap. So i'm going to go around in circles, because i've gotten to the point where i would have to seal it so soon get there so kindly stay tuned and i'm showing you the frontal band that i didn't sew. The wefts onto i've gotten to the occipital area and i'm doubling the tracks so that i will sew less onto the wake up. So now i'm stitching the tracks in circles. So i'm going to go around before i seal it. So i'm still going to use the lines as my guide and sew all around till i get to the middle area that i demarcated for the ceiling, so i'm still stitching the tracks in circles and i'm going round. But at this point i doubled my tracks. It'S up to you, but that's what i just decided to do to avoid a lot of stitches, so usually at the nap area. It'S advisable to use single tracks to avoid bulkiness at the back, but as time goes on, it gets to the occipital area. So from there to the middle part or the frontal area, you can double your tracks. So that's exactly what i did the reason being that i want the nip area or the back to be flat so that the occipital area can protrude. That'S why i double the tracks and i wouldn't want the top to be flat. That'S why i also doubled the tracks when i got there, i'm going to sew on and on and on until i get to the area where i'd have to seal. So i'm going to stitch until i get to the area where i demarcated for the ceiling to be. You can see that the cap is trying to get in my way, but you'd have to position it in such a way that the other parts do not go beneath the needle. If not, you sew it to other parts of the wig and your work is going to be really really really messy, so you just have to be careful and make sure at all times that the cap is flat. This side may be a bit difficult, but you'd have to take precaution, i'm still going around in circles. Until i get to the very point where i'd have to seal it. So sometimes i'm able to use a sewing machine to seal it to the very end, but for beginners you can also i'll show you a different method of um sealing it so, but whichever one you're comfortable with you can give it a try. I'Ve gotten to the very end and that's what the inside looks like. So i'm cutting off the excess threads that are hanging out just make my work. Look neat, you can't certainly leave them in there. You'D have to cut them off. So we've gotten to the point where we'd have to seal, so my cup is ready, almost ready, okay, and so this is the part i didn't sew the tracks onto, but you can decide to put or stitch um tracks onto it if you wish it's optional, but If you want your phone to be full out, then you can stitch onto it. So from here we are going to be trimming our hair, so i placed it back onto the block head and i'm going to be using my trimmer. This is a tab that you can put blade in, so i've inserted my blade and then i'm trimming it because it's already shut, we didn't need to trim much. We just have to reshape it to the desired to our desired taste, so be mindful when cutting, because there are two sides to this trimmer, so i usually use a type that will cut less but there's a part that will cut the hair blunt. So if you're, not careful and you use the wrong side, you might end up cutting too deep and your work wouldn't go as planned. So that's how i'm using it, but when i turn it i'm trying to get some ends to be blunt, but i usually use this when i'm at the occipital area, so i'm trimming the sideburns now and i'm careful not to cut it too short. If not, when you wear it you're going to have your own hair sticking out and it wouldn't look too good. So usually i leave that side to be a bit long, it's by choice. So that depends on you and this is the frontal area and then i'm going to trim just a little bit. I wouldn't trim much too because i wouldn't want the front to be too light, but if of course you want your front to be shot or shorter than what i have here, i decided to trim some more, so i'm still trimming it so guys. This isn't as difficult as you think it may look until you give it a try. So, let's just start from the start and then see what we can make out of this. If i've been able to do this, then i believe that you can also do it. So kindly give it a try and please give me feedback if you've been able to. I am from accra, ghana and i also teach how to make wigs and weaves. So i'm going to leave my email address in the description box below and you can contact me if you have any other questions and i've attached my instagram handle and facebook handle. So you can always send me a message whenever you're having difficulties and i'll be glad to assist you. So at this point, i'm just cutting off the excess hairs that i don't need, i'm just shaping it, but i'm not really trimming much, i'm just dressing it so that i don't have stray hair sticking out or out of place. So i'm doing the need for so at this point i'm going to be tonguing the hair, but your heat should be up to about 230 degrees in order to be able to style the hair to go in the direction that you need or to um lie down Nicely i use the bonding glue coupled with the spritz, to give it a firmer hold. I start sticking the track with the glue onto the cap, and i make sure i set a bit of pressure onto it so that it can stick properly. If you don't do so, it will easily come off and then again that's what i'm going to use for the final seal. So i put a bit of glue onto it and i i roll it inside out. After i'm done doing this, i'm going to use heat or straightener to press it flat so that it can lie down flat. Then, after that, i will add a bit of glue to the m the place where i'm supposed to put the seal in, and i apply a bit of spritz and then press it in so that will be complete. So when i'm done doing this, i just use scissors and i press it in or you can even use a tail comb or any other sharp or pointed edge to push it in to ensure that it has a firmer hold. So you can decide to put a bit of spritz all over the hair and you're good to go, i'm using a wide tooth comb to style it a bit and i'm trimming the sides that are sticking out, but all said and done. We are through with this. So this is the outcome of the hair. I didn't really style it. I didn't style it that much, but this is what it looks like. I think it looks okay, so you can either have it looking this way or the previous um one that she saw me style so guys if this video was helpful. 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