Red Hair Balayage - How To Do Redhead Foilyage Without Fear!

Hey welcome to my YouTube channel. I am so excited to be diving into redhead balayage today., I'm going to show you my signature, foilyage technique that is going to get you amazing results.. Now maybe you're wondering how the heck are you going to show me this in your bedroom? Well, a couple weeks ago I had my assistant Elena come in and we did her hair and you are going to LOVE this transformation.. So let's get into it. *Intro, I'm a big deal and I can do hard things*, So a little backstory Elena and I have been working together for 3 years. She initially came in to help me with my in salon business, and now she is the guru behind most things that you see she is a wizard, and the least that I could do was to give her some bomb ass, hair today.. So she loves getting red hair, and so I was so excited to be able to show you something a little different, because I know red hair is something that a lot of stylists shy away. From., It's scary.. I remember the first time I gave someone- they wanted natural red hair color and I gave them fire engine red hair., So I'm so excited to show you this transformation. We've been doing reds and different coppers on Elena over the last couple years.. But today we went a little punchier, some peachy, some corals, some coppers and you are going to love it. The placement. Oh, my goodness, you are going to love it. So take note of where and how I'm placing it and let's just get into the tutorial.. Alright, let's go., Alright well a tutorial would not be a tutorial without a good before and after.. So I'm showing you what we're starting out with she's got faded roots ready and there you can see there on the right. The beautiful end result which I'm going to walk you through step by step, today., I'm so excited. Elena's, so photogenic, she's, so much fun to hang out with.. So of course, I had the best time doing this.. So I started with Redken flash lift because I was doing foilyage with this., So you can see I'm mixing up speedy, speedy, speedy uhm. As you know, and here we go. Into the tutorial., You know I have fun making these voiceovers for you.. So I start at the back, because I had a heat reaction happen to a client once and that was no fun., Literally within 10 minutes. Her hair was like bubbling like. There was a fire. Like legit, I like leaned forward, and it felt like. I was standing in front of a fire., So you know just to- my 20 years. I'Ve only ever seen it happen twice. Please take note of the sections I'm taking as well and if you've got any questions, leave them in the comments below.. But I need to tell you this story because I feel like we don't talk about it enough in our industry., The heat reaction was terrifying. There was no way to predict it unless you know I would've sent her hair away to the lab. And I think us hairstylists need to stop taking so much responsibility when unpredictable things happen.. So if you wan na hear more about heat reactions and how to prevent them and how to navigate through them, hit me up in the comments below., I will share. I share candidly about the quote-unquote failures. I don't really consider it a failure., But I can talk to you a little bit more about this., So you can see I'm going on a perpendicular pattern. Kinda it looks angled, but I'm actually going parallel to her hairline and doing a combination of weaves and slices.. The reason why I'm doing foilyage is because we wanted to get more punch - and the thing is with open-air balayage - is like a slow cooker and foils are like a hot oven, which means with a hot oven. You can cook things faster. Uhm. There is more potential for damage, but you can see I'm going through I'm taking into account that her ends are pre-lightened. Slices, going angled back and forth. You can see there going nice and close up to the root., Making sure it's fully saturated whooshing around those ends.. I could've used extra long foils, but they I had the pop-up neon switch foils from Framar and uhhh hello, they're, the best I'll link them down below. If you wan na, get them yourself., And here we go all the way up. Just like that, and in a couple minutes, I'm all the way to the crown., I'm backcombing a little bit. I wan na give her a little bit more rooted. I want her to have that lived-in. Look as if her hair, just like, naturally goes beautiful red.. So you can see there always having good tension not going up into the backcombing and taking the side of my brush fully saturating it using a mixture of 10 vol and 20 vol in my lighteners.. So I'm you know taking into account where I am at the head, how long it's going to be on her hair that sort of fun stuff., Anchoring it in. There we go., So they don't slip. Being a chatty Cathy there for a hot second with her.. We had SO much fun.. This was like this whole process. -'Cause, it's a double process took us about 5 hours.. So just so you know like this is no small feat and if a client is wanting something like this charge accordingly and be ready for the time., I think that's one of my biggest frustrations when I first got in the industry is like I'd. Go to these classes, I'd learn these things and they'd be like ``, yeah, yeah yeah'', and it's like in reality. I didn't have the time or no one told us about time, predicaments. or like we always booked 2.5 hours for every highlight.. So if someone wanted a double process, we'd be like ``. Oh sorry, should've told us ahead of time'' but like how was our client to know if they needed-, you guys, know, I'm passionate as all gets out trying to think of without swearing about communication.. So if your client, you know, consultations are so important to know their expectations !'Cause, how disappointing to book a hair appointment, not knowing how long something you want takes'cause they're, not the professional, only to be disappointed. So custom consultations. You can educate your client so much on the importance of coming in beforehand so that you can prepare and give them the best hair. Okay going around the hairline.. You can see I'm going in at an angle here, I'm getting that foil, nice and tight and close.. I wanna make sure around her face it's nice and bright, but I'm still softening it. I'M not going right up to the root, but pretty darn close. Full coverage. Here.. Am I talking too much during this tutorial *laughs*, I feel like I'm just really excited to be sharing this with you.. You can see how 1 ) can we just talk about my salon renovations and how beautiful it's looking in there Holy freaking cow., So yeah, I'm not taking completely horizontal ,'cause if she pulls her hair back. I don't want it to look super stripey. Uhm, but I don't want to go completely vertical so when she wears her hair down, it's stripey.. You see what I'm saying there. So I'm going at those 45ish between like 30 and 60-degree angles. There's right around her part. I made sure to ask her where she parts her hair the most she did. Let me know that she's going to part it on the side and the middle, so I took that into account.. I'M doing slices around you can around her hairline. Uhm once again just to get that more impact that more pop. Full coverage.. Why don't I just shut up here for a second and just let you enjoy the tutorial and watch. *music*, So you can see here- oop! I'M coming back, I'm going to sneak in and say something I'm going back to back around her hairline'cause. I do want that brighter pop around her face.. So I'm not scared to go back-to-back slices. You can see that little bit of backcombing there so that it gives it that softness at the root, but I do want to take back-to-back., I'm not scared about doing-I. Think .... I can't quite remember. While I'm doing this voiceover we'll see time will tell. I think I did 2 or 3, or I might just do a weave next to like soften kinda as it transitions out to the rest of the hair.. Don'T you wish you could work this fast in real life? Wouldn'T that be nice.? I wish there was just like some button two times that we could just like: `` boom boom boom'' through our client., Oh yeah, so there I take a little bit more space and now I'm going to ... weave, I'm pretty sure I weave .... Let'S see if I remember right, *laughs*, oh I don't I slice., I slice.. I was wrong. Oh my gosh Ahhh ... *laughs*. I hope you like these commentaries. Uhm, but there you can see I'm going a little bit farther away from the root as we take this section so that it's starting to give that rooted. Look and the last thing I would ever want you might've. If you've watched my other videos before I say, there's a big difference between roots and a rooted look. And the difference between roots and a rooted look is a rooted look goes. It drops down around the crown but stays bright around the hairline. Right like And when I say hairline, it's not just the front hairline all around the hairline around the back too.. So you know, like those first 2 sections I took in the back, I went quite close up so if she pulls her hair up in a ponytail, you'll see the brightness all around her hairline from the back to the nape to the temples to the front.. But then internally as it gets closer and closer, so if we're taking like rings circles and rings and going in towards the crown, it should go farther and farther away from the scalp as you move inward.. So that's what I'm doing right here. Taking those angled pieces around her hairline and working my way lower as I go ... inward. I was trying to make that rhyme, but it didn't work. Go lower as you go, ... slower, No doesn't work.. I was trying to think of a catchy phrase.. You know who has catchy phrases: Mister J Ladner.. If you want some good catchy phrases for doing hair techniques, he has got you covered. *music*, I'm super curious. This is just like on a personal note, while you're watching the tutorial and soaking, all the goodness in is, do you like voiceovers? Do you like when it's silent? Do you like music, Like do you wan na know, like the? Why, behind everything Uhm, let me know in the comments. Like I make these videos for you to help you, because I didn't have .... I didn't have anything like this when I was like. You know my first 15 years in the industry. And it's so nice that we have these resources, but I wan na make sure that I'm making the videos in a way that you like them.. I don't know if you like, all my rambling or not., I'm going to probably still ramble, no matter what., But I'm curious what-. How do you like to consume your YouTube videos? Do you like the voiceover? Do you wish? I was talking in real time? Do you prefer me to stay qu- like you know, shut the eff up and stay quiet, Uhm ..., I wanna know from you. So let me know in the comments. Okay here I'm going around the front of the hairline there. Oh slight turn in the head, she's helping me out. I wan na make sure this has the max pop. Here's the thing I've learned over my years of hair is sometimes I used to stress and stress and stress over the whole head of hair, and I quickly realized the most important part is what people look and See in the mirror, and so if someone was wanting to be bright blonde, sometimes it doesn't matter as much and I'm not saying to cut corners. But here's the thing we're not perfect. We can't hit home runs every single day, but if someone wants to be super bright blonde, as long as I can focus on getting around their face really bright and what they're liking they're not going to be as (, usually, I know there's room for clients, ... ) but they're not going to be usually as picky about things in the back., So know that if like you're strapped for time, if you're nervous make sure you just spend, I don't want you at the end of the day. I don't want you to take all your time at the back of the head and then be like ``. Oh I'm running out of time'' and rush the front. I used to do that. Be like''. Oh crap. I spent too much time and now I have to rush the front'' or like ``, I have to rinse out early, but the front's only been on for like 10 minutes''. So I don't start in the front a lot because of that heat reaction that scared the POOP outta me., But at the same time, if a client's pinched for time, if they only booked a partial, if, like you know, but they really want a full head and You'Re trying to appease them'cause you're, a people-pleaser like I used to be and you're still learning to say'no', then what I would suggest is start in the front and really focus around the hairline. And let them know. Communication. Back to consultations again, you know that's. My thing is: make sure you let them know like ``, hey the most bang for your buck and to get you something that you love. Let'S focus around the front so that we get the best out of this for you'', but even if you're, not necessarily telling them all that which I do still think we should have very, very transparent communication with our clients'cause. We can't expect them to be the professionals and know the way things go., But I do want you to think about like what they see in the mirror is the most important. Is the most important.. So there I'm making sure right around the front of Elena's hair, whether she parts it in the middle or parts it on the side. It'S going to be nice and bright, and you kinda saw a sneak peek already of how it looks.. Oh, my gosh, I'm like obsessed with her hair. 1 )'cause. It'S something different right! Isn'T it nice ...? I know it can be scary to do something. Different., Here's the ... .. Wait hold on Here's the 3 back to back slices. I was talking about ... right. Oh, this one's a weave., Oh my gosh. *laughs*, Do I have the worst short-term memory or what Uhm ... so .... So it's 2 back to back slices and a weave.. I do around her hairline there.. This helps kinda-. The weave helps kinda soften out so that it's not looking just like a big chunk, but it looks like it kinda like blends into the rest of the hair.. I do love a good weave., Uhm .... I don't remember what I was saying: before., But ... you get it .... This is .... Welcome to the Dawn show. A little bit all over the place, but you're going to walk away with so much good juicy knowledge that you can apply behind the chair. *music*. So I want you to take note. Elena'S hair is really strong and we haven't .... I think we've maybe done foils once before.. So if you're nervous about me putting that lightener on her ends. Her ends-, her hair is very, very strong. Uhm. It'S fine but she's got a lot of it and we were also cutting off a fair bit of hair too. So I'm not as concerned about putting lightener on the ends., So you can see as I'm working more internally uhm I'm you know teasing it a bit more, I'm holding that up and I'm working farther away from the root each time.. So if you watch as you watch how I apply this one, it's not going to go as high up as I did around the hairline.. So remember as you more inward from the hairline. If you're doing a rooted look a more natural look, you can work your way away from the scalp as you enter closer to the crown. *music*. Alright, here's where some fun begins. now that I've done all this foilyage, here's where the balayage comes in hand.. I wanted to give her a brighter all over look., We're doing like a whole shebang, this day.. So I pull out some of those ends. I still use my flash lift. I apply it on the board-. This is a little bit different, I'm not doing the clay. Lightener and then I'm just going to go over because we did want to get her brighter all over and I want her ends to be quite a bit brighter., So I'm just you know going over the ends, breaking them up with some lightener. This doesn't stay on as long as the rest, but I just wanted to lift out some of that color give it a bit of a bump so that we could have a lot of dimension.. Like my favourite, I love dimension.. It'S funny'cause, like I personally, on my hair: don't live dimension, but on other people's hair and when I do hair, I love seeing all the different types of colors that can come when even just applying one overlay color., Which you're going to see how it's going to Look like we did so many different colors in her hair.. When I legit just put one mixture of an overlay color., It's so bomb., So don't be scared.. I know a lot of people- here's the thing I'm here to reduce your stress, your workload and your anxiety. And I used to overcomplicate. I still do, let's be honest. I still overcomplicate things., And so I wan na take the complication out I wanna. Take that's my whole purpose., Like you know, if you've heard of any of my programs and stuff that are out there, it's to take the stress out of everything for you., So I only do one overlay color, but because I've built in the dimension already it takes It differently in different places, and so I don't have to be applying like 3 different shades of red and copper on her hair to get the dimension.. So here we go. You can see how that looks., How fun are the Framar neon switch foils? They look awesome.. So so good. And there we go good good good.. It'S looking great. You can see it's away from the scalp there.. We'Ve got the ends done and here's what it's looking at the sink.. So we pull out the foils one by one: that's different'cause, I don't use foils as much anymore. Only when I want to get max lift. Uhm, it's different to have foils to pull out at the sink. Uhm, but pulling them out gently. Making sure. I think this is the one thing that I can say: clients like the experience that we give them really matters and, if you're not like undoing the sides of your foils and just like, ripping the foils out as much as we're like in a hurry. If you really take the time to gently remove them, it can really make or break the experience for your client. So going through pulling them all out.. Ah, look at how nice and bright her hair got So so good. *music*, Okay! So then we rinse out and it always looks so much brighter with the lightener on.. As you can see, I rinse out. You can start to see a lot of that yellow, which is totally fine, because we are doing reds today on Elena's hair, but I'm rinsing it out., I'm shampooing it and then because I want to make sure I get like the really color really thoroughly through. I go and I apply at the chair. I blow dry, her hair first. So, like I said this was a 5-hour process to get her. This end result something you wan na be really transparent, about., But first a tone., 10VV and 9V with shades EQ.. I wan na get some of the gold out. I wanna get it kind of a blank canvas, so I first tone her to get some of that extra yellowyness out.. Just to give me, you know, give me a little bit more of a blank canvas and even things out.. When I do reds and pinks, I do like to have a little bit of a cool base in them., So there you can see how her highlights turned out. I know they look scary. But remember. I know that I'm going in and I'm applying an overlay, and so I did do a root shadow first with Shades.. I don't if I have ... if I actually have that in here., But I do apply a root shadow first about half an inch down from the root of like, I think it's a level 6, but there you can see Whoo. Look at that Owwww. We are not keeping it that way., So I do apply the 6N in Shades EQ just to blend out the demarkation line, and then these are the colors that I use.. So I use a little bit of silver from Pravana Vivids and then I used the Pulp Riot Cleopatra Pink. You can see there and I also used a little bit of this Rouge Blush from Eugene Perma. And I mixed them all together. !'Cause they're vivids, and I know you might ask me in the comments like what was the ratio, I'm not that person, I'm not that stylist, especially for vivids.. I just kept mixing them together until I found a color that I liked and that Elena liked and I put a little bit on a paper towel and showed her, and I was like ``. This is our inspiration. Remember, hair is not paper towel, so it's going to look different on paper towel., But we lifted her hair pretty good. You can see a lot of that dimension in there already. Uh and then went and applied it.. So here I am applying the shadow root. First, just blending out that demarcation line, so she has a natural grow out there and then .... Here'S the pink, Oh, my gosh., It kinda like I always get a little nervous at this point. I don't know about you but like the processing anxiety., but I started at the front first because remember I want that to sit the longest. I want that to be the POW. I want that to be like `` whoo Look at her hair'', so I made sure to go there first, so that it sits the longest and processes. Uhm. This color mixture doesn't get darker as it sits on. And it just looks so freaking fantabulous.. So here you'll see how thorough I am with applying this overlay, and then I let it sit on for 20 minutes.. We ate lunch. We had fun, we laughed. Uhm. Isn'T that what it's all about About? Making your clients feel amazing and leave feeling as beautiful as you already saw them when they first came in. *music*. So when I'm doing the overlay, you can see I'm kinda pulling it over and doing the sides. I obviously wan na keep it out of her face. I don't want it to stain her face and I don't like to have hair lay on her face at all, so I'm trying to keep it off., But I'm also doing vertical sections so that it doesn't get messy. So that I can like apply the color and Lay it down right away, so you can see there. I lay it down on her shoulder. And then I'm going to go and I'm going to go vertically and pull out the next section.. It can get pretty messy at this stage, especially with vivids, so know that it's okay, if you're a messy colorist, it's okay. If you get messy when you get creative. Me too., But using this sectioning vertically, rather than I know a lot of times like. I know we're taught to start at the crown and kinda do it that way and I'm not against that.. I think that's great., But I find this way keeps it a little bit cleaner for me. And I can ... keep it off their face. Keep it off their skin and keep my space a lot: tidier. *music*, Here's an up-close and personal for ya.. You can see the saturation. The one thing you don't want to do with vivids is to under-saturate.. You wan na make sure you get it all in there and covered and squish it in. And who doesn't love a good close up. I feel like we need some like ASMR right now.. Can I make some sound effects while I do it? Let'S see. *attempt at ASMR, crinkle, sounds* *laughing*. I have no idea how that's going to sound.. That is not how hair color sounds going on., But that was my attempt. I hope you enjoyed that. *laughs* Alright. So here we're going to take you next to the rinsing out.. I use cool water, which is not the most exciting for clients, and I emulsify. I love emulsifying color and it just helps I like to make sure everything's covered and make sure it's all the way. Through. Just really get the color really nice and lathered up.. I also find that it makes the rest of the hair shinier So just going through putting a little bit of water emulsifying.. It also helps if there's any stainage around the hairline. You can make sure that you get that out of the way as well., So there ya have it.. I like to emulsify. I can also kinda see how the color's looking. - And it's really just like. I feel like I'm relaxing just watching this right, now. *snoring noises*. I'M just full of the cheesy jokes today I hope you enjoy that.. So here we have it sped up, and this is like the one thing you would never want to speed up at the salon.. You don't wan na rush, the scalp massages.. I feel like I've. Only had one client actually say they don't enjoy scalp massage and I'm like ``. Are you human ?'', Some people don't. So always asking permission., But obviously you don't wan na speed up the scalp massage.. But this is how I do it. And there we go sneak. Peek at the color, it's looking so good. I blow dry it. Uhm. I get a little bit of volume in there and we're set to show you ... the bomb finale *laughs*, I don't know ..., I don't know ..., I feel like. I should redo this whole voiceover *laughs*, But I'm not So enjoy.. Here we have it.. Oh my gosh. Look at all that dimension. It doesn't look like we put one overlay, color on.. It looks like multipe and it's really cool'cause in different light. It takes on different colors.. The video actually makes it look a lot more red where in real life it actually looked more peachier.. So I'm going to actually include a couple pictures that Elena sent me from home that she gave me. You can see. It looks a little bit pinkier here now on the right., But look at that transformation. Uhm she's, happy with it. It looks SO good. And we had so much fun.. So thank you, Elena. If you guys love it, give Elena some love in the comments. Uhm and here's some pictures from home that she sent me as well.. Alright, what did you think? Are you going to try this Make sure to hit subscribe and leave me a comment below so that you can see the epic videos that I'm going to be coming out with soon? You are not gon na wan na miss them.. They come out every Monday., But I'm curious: will you try this? Will you find somebody to do this color on Or maybe a different version of it. Hit me up in the comments below and if you enjoyed this come say, come over to Instagram and say hello. I'D love to get to know you. If you wanna, dive more into Hair Painting or Business, go ahead, check the description below and see all the links I left you., But I'm so excited that you're. Here it was fun to hang out.. I hope you had as much fun as Elena and I did. No go kick butt at some red hair.. Alright, I've left a couple videos here or here for you to check out., You are going to love them., Go ahead, dive, in. And we'll see you soon.