Mileydy 8: Gray Hair Coverage

Want to do balayages all the time. You got a lot of work and it takes so much time, but they said she comes to me and she wants to cover her grace, which I am I'm great too. Okay and she has curly hair and she has fine curly, hair. Okay, we'll talk about formulation right now now I already asked all the questions. What is the first question in my mind? What is the first thing that I looked at anybody? What did I look up? Um, that's it I'm already under her undertone, so I already know that she might have a strong undertone. We already I mean I can ask all the questions. She has a little bit of moles. Also it's the same as freckles. If the person has a lot of moles a lot of times tell you undertone is strong, so I already know she's gon na pull warmth, but I asked her: do you um? Do you want more of a warmer tone? You want more of an ash, a cooler tone, warm warm um, so she says warm and we're gon na keep listening more cool, okay, just just so I can make the formulation becomes a lot more difficult, Okay, so so the first thing. First, we know that she had a flat cuticle, curly hair is high porosity. I mean she's getting it's going to be porous because she has curly hair period. Okay, so she has a flat cuticle and then the next thing that I'm going to do is determining her level that she is is really important. Okay, so I look at her steam Life by the way I don't know never put your hands on a client. Unless you ask, can I please take a look. Ask the question: never go. Oh, let me do that. No ask please it's really important. So I take her hair and I look at her cuticle and I say if I had the book right here, I would say that this is a level three four okay. Now the percentage of gray is really important. So I'm going to go by the percentage of grade where she has it the most. I'M not going to look back here because back here a lot of times. The percentage is not very high, so she has right now percentage, I'm gon na say most coverage about 40 right, so she has 40 percent. Sorry, I'm just saying that for purpose, okay, 40 great and she has a level three okay, so her undertone is going to be warm, so less categorize around the tone as this dark. So I'm thinking in my mind, she has this much red. She wants it cooler right so around the tone is strong. Now can it if I put by the way, really quick if her undertone is about 10 drops of red? How many drops of blue do I need to cancel it out? Ten ten, I need 10 equal. The cancellation equal, the console, if you really want to correct it equal the consolation, you don't have to always fully correct it, but always equal. So if I'm going to be here, I want to make sure that whatever I'm canceling with is as dark as the undertone. So understanding somebody's undertone is really important, but I always go by that. So I need to in this will have to be darker to correct it. You'Re not going to put light blue on this and expect to be corrected. It'S not going to happen. It'S going to wash out into washes and the client is going to call you okay, now this level, if you were going to tell me from 1 to 10 10 being, I was going to tone 10 BB from Chase EQ. If anyone knows how 10 you know, does anyone know she kill yeah, yeah level, 10 BB? This will be What level in shapes. Just guess. Is it so dark at like a level one? This much blue could be easily a level three or four right or level. Five, so that means that this will be a level three or four level five right, so I need to cancel that this is the problem. Gray hair does not cover with Ash color; it needs all the colors in the rainbow. So how do I put this in her right now, because this is the color that I'm going to formulate back there, I'm going to formulate an ash color to make sure that her red is canceled? Am I losing you guys so you got this? Is this hard right a little bit right, so she has at what level? Is she right now? What level did I put in there three? What is her undertone red if I'm going to go to formulate a color in my in the back, I'm formulating the color and I'm gon na I'm gon na tell you which level I'm going to put in right now, and I want to come here and formulate The color and I'm going to put it on, I need to make sure my color has that much correction color to correct the red that is going to come out because she says she wants Ash. Are you with me yeah, okay, so saying that I'm going to go back and I'm going to correct it now, there's a big problem here, her curls, the diameter of the hair is thin. So I'm already thinking this color. It makes things a lot more complicated and I explained to you in a minute not only that please people feel the skull the person she runs warm okay. Why is that important? If you put 20 volume on this client, she might get hot roots? How would it happen because you're not using the right developer and you're, not feeling the client's temperature and you can ask her? Do you normally run hot yeah? It'S important. How Roots happen all the time, the biggest problem, with any status graduating and going? I know plans stylists have been doing here for five to six years. They cannot formulate root color, they can do balayages funky. They cannot formulate what colors okay a lot of the time has to do with that feel the client's heat and know their undertone and also the diameter of the hair. Now guess what who thinks to cover great? What developer? Do we have to use 20 20.? Who said 20? Lift your hands? Okay, that's what they teach you here right on most places when you go out there, who's at 10.. Okay, so turn on mine. I use guess what I do. I use 10.. I use 15. I use 18. and I always use a scale to do this. I use all those three depending on the level most of the time I use 10. okay. So this is why they don't teach you here, and this is what I learned about 15 years of my career sucks, because I wish I would have known before. Okay, so what covers gray, hair developer or color opens up the cuticle, so the color can deposit inside right. The book tells you that right. Yes, that's incorrect! That'S wrong! That'S incorrect because you do need developer. You do need developer, but the color itself is what covers the gray, I'm going to tell you that in Old School back when we used to back 20 30 years ago, we some of the status will use two parts color one part developer. Okay, then we use more color versus developer. That is incorrect. What covers the gray is the color? Yes, you need developer to open it up, but if you have a client that has a really difficult great coverage like you cannot cover it, I go online and the number one question this color line is not covering the gray. This color Lines. No, it's not the color line. It'S your knowledge, it's what they have taught you. It'S not the knowledge that you don't know is that they have taught you this. So what covers the gray is going to be the color itself I normally formulate. If I have. I always work with grams. By the way you should always feel colorless. You should have a scale, always go grams and no ounces, I'm not a big analysis, but grams. So I will put 40 grams of color and, if they're really difficult, I would use 30 grams of developer and then on top of this this way the question is 20. 30. 15.. She has a thin cuticle. Do I need to lift okay? What happens when you lift a cuticle huh, it turns brighter. What else happens? What comes up you expose the underlying pigment color correction right here: do you wan na? Do you want her undertone to come up bright orange and now you have to deal with a big mess or her roots, because it's orange? No! So guess what I don't work for 20., because 20 does that if you put 20 on a thick thin cuticle, it's going to lift and then now you have to cancel and you have to correct. So I don't use 20. if I feel per second. First of all and the consultation, I always share this you're coming to me for your great coverage, and I want you to understand this. It might take three times for me to get the color that you desire the first time you come in. I use the scale and everything I write everything down the second time. Something does happen at home. The Fading process of a permanent color can happen, and sometimes it doesn't fade the way I want it or the way you want it. But it's not on me - and I say this a lot. Your hair goes through an oxidization process and some of us are here oxidized more than others. I always describe this as cutting it up. One half what happens to the Apple? The same thing happens with hair. Is it on your color? Is no it's not on you. If her hair goes home and she comes back two weeks yellow it's not on me - she went home, nice and beige beautiful, but she's coming back, yellow her hair has oxidized, but I am teaching her how to clarify her hair to clear clarify the accusation process. So I say to them: is it okay, if you're patient enough or you communicate with me, but you understand it might take three times to get the correct level of deposit color in your hair. She says to me: yes, it's communication, make sure you have that communication with the client, so coverage color, developer 40 to 30 little Gramps. Who understands? Is there any questions on this by the way? Okay? So I'm going to use 10 volume, her okay, but if I have let's say that she's coming in, she has a lot of great crazy amount of Grays and her hair is really straight and she has a thicker cuticle. I might use 15 on her, the thicker. The cuticle the higher the developer, because the developer has to work that much harder to get in here, especially if it's gray hair, because the gray hair becomes very like stubborn, thick straight gray. Hair is really hard to cover. But when you're talking about this type of hair she's, not she shouldn't be that difficult to cover. For me. Okay, now the gray hair in the front versus the back, I'm going to do one formulation or two formulations on her two two formulations, I'm going to cover the front one color and cover the back another color we'll go into that. It'S way too difficult any questions on this. You guys have moms and theas and cousins that you can cover the gray, stop practicing. This 10 volume now hear me out. She wants level, let's say that she wants level four or five a little higher correct when you are dropping your developer, make sure that you make your color a little higher or unlevel. So I can color her. For example, I'm in a formulate for her six n, a okay with some, so my formulation for her me. We have anything to clean it up. Okay, so for her, my formulation will be this. My 6na does cover gray. So I have that on me. So I'm like I don't I don't have to worry about that, so I'm going to use um 30 grams of 6 n a and then I'm not going to put a five on her because you have to think cuticle. She can also go darker. It'S too much too much pigmentation and then I'm going to put another 10 grams of I mean I'm gon na do seven, because I need to make sure that it's less 7 grams of six and N now. This is the warmth that you need to cover the gray. The gray itself needs to need a little warmth. Okay, so this is pretty much the one thing you need to cover the Grain, and this is going to be my main formulation, so she doesn't get too warm when she oxidizes any questions on this okay, but if a root color was a little bit darker, I Could put in a 50 gram formulation, which is probably a lot of micrograms, I can put in an extra eight grams of five and a if I want it cooler or five and N. If I want it warmer, I normally have three colors in every formula that I do at least three colors a lot of the times. Sometimes I have two, but it's never one. I never color one. I mix them with a whisk, and then you have to make sure by the way, make sure that you mix your color really really well. A lot of the allergies that happen in the scalp is because you did not mix your color correctly. So make sure that you do that in the USA, clients about the allergies before you start doing the hair. So this is my main formula, always primary color, the primary color that you wanted to cover the gray or what you're going for secondary to make sure the degree itself covers, and it has the warmth enough to cover - and the third is to drop to the level That you need a lot of times. I don't want it to be one color, a one-dimensional color. So then, from here she comes back and she says to me be graded and cover that much and I want more coverage in my gray, something black like a cape, something okay, I mean I need something: black translucent anybody wearing something exclusive; well, okay, we're just gon Na imagine so I say to her: do you want your gray coverage to be solid and I word it in purpose shoe polish, because that's what it looks like it's flat and it's solid and I explained to her when you have solid what happens when you have Solid coverage and then her hair grows out. Please someone raise your hands you. What she's more it shows more correct. Does she want to come every two weeks? Do you want to come here two weeks? She doesn't want to come every two weeks, so guess what this is old school. It doesn't happen anymore, either. Okay, when you go to New York and you go to Redken Academy and all those they're going to teach you not to color like this anymore. It has to be dimensional and you have to be see-through, so the new modern coverage is more see-through. It'S more dimensional, it's more lights, traveling through the hair. So that means that's not 100 great coverage anymore. Yes, and no! Yes, yes, you can put more one thermal goal to achieve that if you want 100 more gold, more coverage, but that means that I'm going to talk to my client now about coverage. Hey, do you want more of a solid coverage and come more often, some people do some of my clients come here two weeks I don't care they're like I don't care, I want it gone or do you want more modern again, there were more modern coverage, which Means that the gray will be a little bit more visible, it kind of will look like highlights uh in your hair, but then in a couple weeks, you're going to see it a little bit more. Will you be okay with that and a lot of the times? They want more of a modern coverage? Okay, which means the formulation doesn't have to be so warm, because what makes it solid is going to be the double end and the one right. The formulation doesn't have to be so warm, so did I discuss them with her, but let's say that she comes back and she's like. I think my hair is um too warm. You turn too warm now. I need to make sure that I add my formulation that sticks and end a little bit more in I put more of the five in to make sure that I get more pigment. This is really hard guys. I mean even if you've been working with me for a year, I still formulate for some of my stylists. How do you know the difference between 6ma and because she knows her colors? No, no! No! No! No! That'S a good question. That'S a good question say it again: sorry, how do you know the difference between the six Okay? So I'm gon na give you a minute for another manufacturer's trick: um, six and N is what can anyone neutral, neutral and and that natural okay? So so, let's say we have six and N: isn't it patch? Okay? So I'm gon na I'm gon na tell you a little trick. First letter of anything is your primary color right. We we learned that in Shady Q right the second letter is going to be a secondary color. What is natural, what is natural is anyone tell me, I think it's all three pigments together red, yellow and blue okay. Would you guys diets before you know when you mix all the colors? I was trying to make it here, but we had too much blue and you make solid color, eventually you're. Turning to this muddy Brown and you're, like what the heck is going on, guess what you better know your color line, because every manufacturer makes a different natural is blue. Redken is warmer, the other color is going to be more gold. No you manufacture and ask them. What is your natural look like or play with them to know, because I can tell you each manufacturer is different now this is another trick. You know why they may seek and then for stylists that don't know color, that's it because NN means double pigmentation or natural to cover gray. But you know what it also means. This is what it means. It'S the same thing. What does that say? Five inches six and N is the same as 5n stronger pigmentation at a lower level, but guess what they don't think beneficial think that we know what we're doing so. They'Re like, let's make it easy for them we're going to make a 6 an end. Is this Shades EQ any color light? Okay, any color lines: double pigmentation equals one level lower. So when you're formulating it, you don't have six and then get your five and then out it's the same thing. Okay, it just made double pigmentations A lot of times more solid, more pigment stronger. So this could be this, and this is the same. The same thing just drop a level. That'S why it's really important. I understand the undertones and how darker, like you, know, versus this versus level: seven versus level four understand visualize, when you're kind of sitting visualize, where you're working it undertones undertones undertones, how I cancel, enhance and cancel and enhance what you're doing with that client. Okay. So I would use something. So those are your only two ways though, but it's not that complicated or enhanced it. If they love the red, you give them red right or what was it Castle or enhanced means they love it cancel. It means they, don't they don't and you cancel it somewhat, but always try to cancel. Never the word Ash. Take it out. I always try to if you as much stylist stay within the gold, because it's easier to do. Okay. Ash is really hard to get a gray hair to cover Ash. It'S really hard impossible say they don't know how to do it at the beginning. Not even that say you know what I don't think for my experience. This is something that's going to work with you. It'S also is really difficult. The way it facing use your words to change that client's, mind, persuade that client and make sure they can trust you when you're talking to them - and this goes with makeup - with nails with the whole entire industry. Barbering everything hey - you have uh this big old flip over here and we need to show over there and you know what I'm talking about they had. You know some, Mr Football head, that you have to shape a certain way he's going to convince them to do a different haircut. Our job is to convince our clients to make sure that what they're looking to get is something the a is modern, beautiful enhances, with their shape of their face their skin tone. All that any question formulations really are, I feel so bad because I feel like this is just I don't have enough time to teach. I can teach formulation for three hours, it's like the tip of the iceberg, it's the tip of the iceberg. Yes, what did you say and and meant it was true pigment or natural pigment or double pigment? What did you say so? Nn is a double pigment which is the same as dropping a level in any kind of manufacturer, so drop a level again know your colors, who here works with sushkov anybody, color, no, no, no bleach, color, okay, search cuff, is one of the lines that I don't Work with I refuse to the pigment is so strong, so strong and it guess what I bleach do I want to bleach through a strong pigment. No. Why? Because I can't get to the damn I can't get to the cuticle. I can't get to the white the beautiful banana inside. I don't work with social, I don't color with them. It covers and it's matte the colors are matte shoe polish. I don't work with that. Don'T no need for that. So I normally cover with artego, which is a European line, and I use Redken, because I I've been doing tracking for a long time and it's easy to get right. But um you work with whatever you want to just make sure that you're educated on that color line.