Midnight Blue Violet Black Hair Tutorial

Hello to all the head that season the land i'm here with my modzelle amanda hi, i'm amanda and my best friend ariana, so we're gon na have a lot of fun today. The thing with amanda is when you lighten the hair. It goes through this orange red type of stage into the gold yellow before it goes to blonde. Our goal really is to get her to a nine, even an eight if she could get to an eight i'll be happy. This looks like it's a level four five ish, i'm gon na, say a four that has been faded into a five. My fear is that she is gon na stay, looking orange, so you can see here her natural level is about. Oh, that looks like a four down here and then her natural looks like it's a five, so she's a five and down here's a four, so we're gon na have to lift through some color, but i'm gon na find a way to balance it out, because today We'Re gon na talk about midnight, so let's go ahead and have a seat: amanda, okay, uh we're gon na wrap her up in the body condom, okay, so the goal for today is the midnight collection. So we are gon na utilize, midnight blue one three and the midnight violet and maybe a touch of midnight fantasy five. I want to lift the hair up a little bit, so we can add dimension to it, so it can look very beautiful. So some of the blues and violets can come through so let's open up here and take a look at her hair. Very, very close. If you look very very close here, you can see her natural hair color about four to five inches out right through here, which is level five, but look at this middle band right in through here. This middle band is the darkest. It almost looks like a three into a four you can see where her natural looks more like a five, and then you see this three and then you see the four down the ends, so this middle band is what i'm afraid of it looks like a shadow Root has been put in, let's just hope that it's going to come out when we highlight her hair so we'll just keep our fingers crossed we're going to use our magnum 8, which is our powder lightener that lives up to 8 levels. If you have not tried magnum eight you're missing out, you need to try it. Everyone loves it. It spreads so well. So, with magnum eight, i love mixing one to two ratio. I'M just gon na do 50 grams, because girlfriend has a lot of hair all right and we're gon na use. 30 volume always make sure to use the delicate developer. I'M very anal when it comes to measuring, because i feel like when you don't measure you don't get consistency and a lot of times as humans. What we do is we like to blame the product? No, sometimes we got ta blame ourselves. We got ta hold ourselves accountable these days. Just do it right, follow the directions and you won't have to hold yourself accountable, because you know you follow the directions and doing things the right way like they're supposed to be. Okay, all right so get the whisk and we're gon na whip her on up. So the consistency is beautiful. It does have that subtle, lavender tone to it, and it just spreads so well and we are going to sprinkle in guy tang collagen powder and what this will do is it protects your hair during the lifting process, when you're lifting the hair is when the hair Gets compromised right so you can use a quarter scoop we're going to sprinkle this in okay. This is a new guy tang more to me, color board, color canvas system, so we're going to adjust this and go ahead and sit on back darling and just like. So we can adjust to your client's height, so we're going to bring this right on and look how close it gets to the hair. So you get to turn the board left turn the board right to adjust to the hair. So what we're going to do is we're going to start in the nape area. First, all right! So let's go ahead and section the top out of the way. So we're going to take a horse shoe section. Okay, so i'm going to section the parietal area out the way as well, because we don't need to work on them, yet those are going to be her money pieces that we are going to target later near the end, i'm just going to dissect straight down to The nape and we are going to target the nape area because we're creating under lights right these under lights, ensure that she has a nice face frame. So we're going to go ahead and clip that up out the way like that - and this is area we're going to target. And if i stretch this out, you can see all the banding light dark light. So now we're going to lift the hair up and take notice how all the short hair comes out. So you do not want to highlight the short hair bits because you don't want short hair to stand out and the cool thing also about this board. Is you get to lock the wheels underneath and keep it stationary you need to so this is all the long hairs you're going to be highlighting and then take the short hair right underneath that move it out the way tuck it under the board, just like so Grab your foil like so, and paint magnum lightener on the hair, just like so look at the consistency of the product. It just penetrates and spreads so well, and i use an extra long foil here. These foils are really really long, and what i love about having the color canvas system board here, is that i'm able to apply the product with pressure and take the pressure off of my back. That'S how it takes the weight off of your client. I notice at the end of foiling my clients are like theirs tilted back. No one wants to have their neck in pain, so save the client you or your client you're right, ariana. So i'll put the link below you can get the color canvas system on the website. Color canvas systems.com, actually what's really important. I find is to really spread the hair out to make sure you penetrate both sides and then we're going to do an overlay to lay the full right over. Another thing i want to add is the board is really cool for when you want to do this. Let'S just say: i just need to paint on the foil first with the lightener, so that way the foil has lightener and product on it. So when you place it down, you already have the product and the hair sitting right on top of it. I'M just gon na comb it lightly, so it spreads the hair out, so it lays flat and start from the mids work. Your way up, just like so and i do about probably four to five panels here on the left side of her nape and then the same thing on the right side of her nape. So one of the questions i get asked the most ariada, it's like how do you use the foil board on the top of the head around the face? What do you say about that areata? Well, we talked about this before you know. You have a fork. You have a spoon, you have a knife and you don't go and eat soup with a fork. So we have the board to make our life easier down here. But when we get to the top and to the front, you can use another tool, and usually you don't need to most of the weight of the hair. Is back here. You'Re not necessarily going to need the board for up around the face and up at the top, because life isn't as hard up there when no life is not as hard up there. Hair around the face doesn't have the weight and it's easy to foil around the face back here you have all this bulk of hair, so this is what the color canvas board is for it's to take that pressure and weight off of you back here, because this Is the hard part this is part where, like oh, my god, it's taking forever and i think for me as a hair stylist, i don't know about you ariana, but sometimes i get bored of doing what i'm good at when you're doing the same thing. Over and over for the last 17 18 20 years, you know you're good at it, but then now what? How do you evolve? How do you change when every time we come up with new tools, people are always skeptic. They either go. I'Ve seen that before that ain't, nothing new, i see it back in my day, so that's really important sometimes is to adjust with the times because a lot of times our clients are coming in and they're asking for something new and if we don't have what's new, Sometimes we could lose our client and our client will go somewhere else. It'S hard to like learn new things and play with new toys, but i definitely encourage you to do it because you have to evolve not only as a stylist should you evolve, but we should evolve as human beings. You know because if we don't evolve, you know sometimes we could get bored of ourselves and you're searching for new meaning in life and sometimes the new meaning is about evolving and searching for what you like. So now i'm going to do the same thing on the opposite side and that's all the force we need underneath and we'll be back. So i already finished all of her nape area. As you can see, i'm reaching the occipital going up to the apex top of her head. I'M skipping one inch slices doing thin panels across the way. I finish this side, i'm gon na move this board out and the cool thing is because there's a wheel on the color canvas board. I could just go like this and voila. So, on this side, when she tilts her head down, you can see this is where her part is. I don't want to go with the florals all the way up to a part. I want it to veil over the highlights that she has in the foils. You can see, as i lift up that section, there's about an inch of hair in between and then under here. This is where her nape is, and there is four back to back foil so under here - is that under light piece, then an inch we're going to repeat this again, so you can see and then a slice of foil, that's back comb, then an inch of hair. Then it just repeats so there's only four foils on this side and of course, we left this veil right at the top voila and we repeat the same thing on this side. This is really important. You want to keep this piece veiling through the back, because you don't want to see any highlights popping through where her cowlick swirl area is and take a thin slice. You can see how her hair is really thick up here, and it gets finer as it goes down, that's very, very normal, and by highlighting her ends, they actually create expansion and make the hair seem and appear a lot more bigger, which is a good thing. So take a thin slice right up here at the top. We are going to back comb right underneath here and that backcomb is going to push the short hair back. Hold it down. The panel remember not to rope the hair and i'm going to move this hair out of the way. So that way, you can focus on the hair up here, tuck the foil in right underneath and i always have to do like a little comb through just so. The hair lays flat and then we're going to position the board up paint magnum eight right onto that hair and again, if you need to sometimes i like to drag it up just a little bit higher pull see. I hold the foil up here and then paint that down, because sometimes i just want to go up and create more of a jagged line pack that product on and then overlay the floral and now i'm going to head up around her face and we're going to Do the money piece now, as i head along the front of her face frame, you don't need the board in front, because this is so easy, so i'm going to introduce you the long board, so i create this with alicia fox from color canvas system. This is a smaller one. This is the medium length one she has long hair, so most likely i'm gon na have to use the extra long one, and what i love about the board is that when you get to the corner here, you see that it's tapered off on the edge so That way, you could get close to her scalp edge area and you have a rubber corner edge here, so you could lay it on your chest or stomach or wherever you decide to put it, that's comfortable for your arms and you have a flat surface to paint On, let's take a look at her hairline here: okay, we're going to give her a big money piece here. You know we're all about the money piece, but what's really important about the money piece is you got to get the face frame and otherwise, if you only do this piece, then it looks stringy in the bottom and there's no connection here. So you need to bring the parietal area in so it all connects. So it looks bulkier and thicker. So that being said, i'm going to move this up out of the way. So what i like to do is fold the foil over the back of the board right here, so the flap will be fold out because you're going to paint on this side. So this is the guy tang, my thick body spray. This is our texture spray, because amanda has very slippery hair, so we want to put a little texture and grip to her hair, so we're going to spray this on her hair right before doing the backcomb around her face shake this just like so, okay, so over The wreck towards you and then see how i backcomb that take notice because of the my thick body. I could get really really close to her routage right there. So now i get the board anchor it in and notice how my finger position is with my thumb index and my three fingers here in the back with the pinky i hold the board and what i love is having that flat surface to paint on you all Amanda and i have become besties over here, amanda tell us about yourself, because you were asking me a bunch of things, so i want you to go ahead and just ask away, and so i'm from chicago and i'm a model and influencer but um. I was asking guy and i want to ask him on camera, so you were saying earlier that you used to be. You know, really uncomfortable in youtube videos. You know speaking in public and things and now you do it all the time. So just how did you overcome that and any advice you have for people who might be for me it's about having purpose and because i know for me, representation was so important for not only the gay industry and for me being asian, because i've never seen anyone That looks like me and they end up growing up. So i was like you know what i need to put myself out there, it's important for me to fill that void for myself. So i was like you know what i'm gon na face. My fear do it and i was scared the whole time because i'm like they're all gon na look at me and they're gon na judge me and they're all gon na hate me, but then it felt so liberating and once i did it, i felt free from Myself and it gave me so much purpose and that's why i said like you know, if you see something that's missing out, there don't be afraid to be that person to fill that void for yourself, it's not about following a path. That'S already been paid, but it's about creating your own path. This is something i always talk about. People always think that they want to follow the yellow, brick road to emerald city, while the yellow brick road get to the wizard of oz. And when you get to the wizard of oz, you realize he's just a man behind a curtain he's not who you think he is because everyone like say, oh, you know, get to the wizard. He has the answers. He has magic powers and then it's all like a facade, and so that's why sometimes a lot of us we chase certain dreams but those dreams. When we get there, it isn't what it seems, because it's all an illusion. So that's why it's really important for us to not chase a dream. That'S been put out there but create our own path and being able to do that. You have to visualize it in your head. If you see it in your head, it exists amanda. You said you want to put yourself out there more. What void is it that you want to fill for yourself? I really have always liked people. You know like talking to people and things like that and giving any knowledge that i have. I just genuinely have a passion for connecting with people like i'm always so friendly and outgoing, so just to be able to you know, create more music, video or not. Music. Videos youtube videos. Okay, music feels you. Can you can't be like you, you know what you could do that too. Hey, if you guys know what we're talking about too yeah cause. You never know. You know what, if that's, where you need to go. Who knows i like that yeah? It'S like never be able to. You know, put yourself in a box and hey listen. I will provide amanda's links below if she starts a youtube channel. By the time we release this video. You can stalk her if you need to and her instagram. Yes, i'm on instagram we'll stay connected, so you can see what i'm doing at the top of her money piece, i'm doing back to back, highlights here, full slices. I want these blocks to be big, because i want you to be able to see them and i'm gon na do the same thing on both sides and we'll be back all right. So you can see. I finished following amanda's whole entire head. Her face is down here, but i want you to see. What'S going on so i'm gon na base amanda's hair with one nb midnight, blue and level. One is black, so we're gon na get a blue black. I choose to use demi permanent color because we're glazing her beautiful brown hair. We are taking it deeper and i love that it's gon na create like this blue black cast to it. There is a 3mb as well, which we'll utilize later, let's take a peek at one of the first foils in the back, so you can see how well she has lifted with her un virgin hair whoa whoa. She lifted a lot higher than anticipated. This is amazing. She lifted to like a level eight. So what i love about midnight, blue one, is take a look at the color in the bowl. Look at the depth of that tone is so beautiful. It'S gon na add so much shine to her hair and it's gon na cool down her color okay, because we're only depositing over her brown. You will take notice that the blue tone will make her brown look very, very smoky and cancel all the warmth that you see. So i know a lot of folks always want blue black to show up on hair and the reason why it doesn't because hair naturally has orange in it. So after i finish applying her base color here, we're going to let her process for 25 minutes for the demi permanent color and we'll be back to do a final glaze of the midnight blue midnight violet and a little touch of midnight fantasy mixed in we'll be Back we're back with amanda, so this is the pre-lightening stages. It'S the in-between stage so think about this paranormal heritability situation, some parts of her hair lifted to a level nine. Some parts only lifted to level eight. This is normal when it comes to paranormal lifting, because her hair was an all the way virgin. So the virgin parts lifted lighter like right up here where it's grown out. You can see where it lifted lighter and the 1mb bled into it, which is fine, because i want that to happen because we're going over it with more midnight blue at level three and midnight violet at a level three and midnight fantasy on the end. So it's all gon na work out and play in our favor, so a lot of times just because things come out paranormal and the canvas is not clean. You want it that way, so it works in your favor. So don't ever feel bad if it doesn't lift perfectly, even because it's all about the end goal, what you're going for so i told amanda our end goal is to get her the midnight blue, the midnight violet 3, and also the midnight fancy. So the midnight fantasy is mainly to kind of frame around the face and on the ends, only so the color bursts, but we want the tone to primarily be midnight violet throughout. So this is the perfect canvas for that and you can see how it's darker right underneath her neck coming through and it ombres itself underneath here and just sew right through there. She got her money piece here and when she turns take a look where her money piece is so now we're gon na go over it with our demi series. I wan na show you our beautiful formulation right here in front of us, so you can see right here. We have the midnight blue three midnight, violet three midnight fantasy 5 and it's all about creating a color mouth right. You don't need to make it all blocked out at all. Even you just want to blur it through, because you want all the color to just blend seamlessly, so her shadow router should be blue and then violet and then fancy where you have more of that berry tone. So anything that has blue in it will always look darker, so demi permanent color is the key here with demi permanent color, it's acidic at least with guy tang identity. When you're mixing one to two ratio, it's acidic make sure you mix it with six volume, dedicated developers very important, and we put the collagen powder in here as well. And that's key point here: you want to make sure you put the collagen powder in because, when you're working with pre-lightened hair, you want to repair it as your color and for me it's very important that you'll see that i love applying color over dry hair. I know a lot of us like to just apply color over damp hair, but think about it when your hair is dry and you apply color on it. It'S absorbing everything, but when you have water in your hair, the water dilutes it so it's like kool-aid. You know the more water you add in it's not going to be as sweet and it's not going to look as you know, saturated and taste, unsaturated the same thing with your hair. You may think you're getting the color you want at that moment, but it's not going to last if you're just applying it over damp hair. I know i know we want to take shortcuts. Life is hard and everyone wants shortcuts in life right, ariana yeah, but sometimes the best thing comes to those who wait and who are patient amanda. How do you feel about that? I feel like you're, giving us gems today, gems, i mean i mean the thing: is we all want shortcuts right everyone? Does they want the elevator? They don't want to climb the stairs you know but think about. If you, if you'd, be running, stop signs and running red lights, you could be wreak havoc and cause trouble here. You get something to get stop and let things happen. You know let traffic flow through. So it's safe, you'll, look, left and right know where you're going. Don'T rush your way through life? Don'T rush your way through your client's process. The most important thing i always tell my client is: this is gon na take maybe three hours or four be patient with me. Okay, you can't rush things in life, so we're applying the midnight blue base right now and what i like to do is i get the base formula down. First, before i start doing the color melt yo, look at that midnight blue three going down so notice how it's not just a straight line across when i place the color in you're. Seeing the placement being very erratic, some pieces are lower, some pieces are higher, so it almost creates a balayage effect. You wanted it to be erratic. Not boom boom boom. So take a look at the colors in the bowl. So far, so look at that midnight violet. Look at the depth of that in the midnight fantasy, so keep in mind, i'm not really showing the fantasy by itself, i'm using it almost like a merge. I want the colors to just kind of bleed into each other, so just all fuse and blend in so we're gon na go right back here, ariana, so i'm gon na start at the bottom, because i like to work my way up so at the bottom. Here you can see, i dragged the midnight blue pretty low. So now i'm gon na go in with the midnight violet so notice how i'm leaving out the tips. So the tips is where i'm going to come in with the fantasy. The midnight fantasy is going to come in right on the tips and i'm just going to do this working my way up and it's really simple and keep in mind because it's demi it doesn't have ammonia. Permanent color has ammonia so with ammonia. It expands. So you have to use your hands to push the product in like keep swiping push, so the product can penetrate and spread. So you just got to make sure you go in swipe penetrate just like that. I'M gon na do this all the way up till i meet her money piece process for 25 minutes and we will return to show you the results. Are you guys ready for the reveal here? We go three two one. It'S midnight forever from your disasters. It'S midnight forever. How do you feel girl gosh? I love it like a mystical, goddess, mysterious, mystical goddess: oh my gosh. I love that midnight blue from inside. You can see you can see right in there that depth. It has a royal tone to that blue right. It'S amazing everything is like a raven, a deep sexy raven. It has so much dimension. When you look down, you can see that blue black from the midnight blue level, one into the three that we ombred in and you can see it face, frame that money piece and that midnight violet with the midnight fantasy blurring together. It just pops and just creates so much movement. Try the midnight shades, i'm obsessed with it. Ariana'S obsessed with stuff you're obsessed with it all right guys thumbs up subscribe. Follow me on instagram facebook, twitter, tick, tock, because we're all about tick, tock, comment below tell me what you love about the video and i'll see you guys soon and download my album more to me, 1981 and multi-perspective. You can purchase all these colors at cosmoprof, armstrong, mccall and identitycolor.com. Okay, signing off bye now,