How To Highlight Around The Face | Hair Color Tutorial

As an artist, one of my favorite things to do is color this beautiful makeover story. We went from a lot of length into a nice stronger bob shape. My job as a colorist is to bring some lightness and brightness to this. Some softness to it, while not taking away from the strength of the shape that the scissor put in so we're blending. These two looks together, so i have a technique. That'S a combination of foiling mixed with a little hand, painting and really comes down to the art of toning. That'S going to bring this cut to life. So what i'm working with around the sideline the sides of the hair here is a nice little weaved out section. I'M looking to increase the concentration of blonde around the face, so i'm going to work with synchro, lift plus and 20 volume. The reason why i'm choosing synchro lift here it's going to give me up to nine levels of lift. I don't really need all nine here. That'S why i'm using a 20 volume and really what i'm going to do is just allow that product to do its thing. It'S going to give me a nice clean, even lift the 20 volume is going to make sure that i'm not lifting too quickly. So the technique in the back can catch up with the lifting in the front. It'S the perfect choice, really great amazing lightener. If you guys haven't used it check it out. So following again, just a nice soft weaved out around the hairline and really putting these foils close together. So i'm increasing the concentration of blonde around the face, that's something i'm always trying to do. When i talk to my customers or my clients or my guests, whatever you want to call them, i'm always trying to ask them. Yes, you want to be blonde, or are you talking about the amount of blonde or the level of blonde or both? I think asking questions like that really does make a big difference in what the guest is actually asking for. So in this case again we are looking to get a nice level. Nine blonde eight eight nine level blonde around the hairline here, um, eight and a half nine - would be our target goal and we're really looking again for an increased concentration of blonde really softening that hairline. So working around weaved soft weaves soft weaves. We'Re going to continue to work back up up the hairline here, i'm splitting the hair in half the sections in half, because you know for me it might take a little bit longer to add more foils, but it's better than getting those bleed marks by trying to Stretch a large amount of hair into a smaller space. It doesn't always work, so don't be afraid if you guys have those bigger kind of wider sections to split them up into two. So, as i finish this up, i'm working all the way back to that pre-section. I made you can see, there's a little triangle section that falls just from that midpoint of the head right behind the ear forms like a little triangle base to the top, where we're going to do something different in that section, we'll get to that in a minute. So i'm working right up to that hairline. Once i hit that division mark in between my sections, i'm going to go ahead and do the same thing on the other side until all this meets in the middle and we have a lighter brighter synchro, lift plus and 20 volume hairline all foiled out all right. So now that we're foiled around the face, i'm going to save some time in the back and a lot of times, that's what we got to do as color is: how can we save some time um and - and why would i be needing to put a ton Of foils back there all those layers that are going to lay over top of the stronger cut shape in the bottom. So i really just need to take up space and add some softness here. I'M going to work with my skylight, which is our kaling clay hand, painting or balayage lightener. It is the perfect choice here. It has a nice kalin clay, shell, which is going to act as an incubator, and i'm mixing that with 40 volume, that 40 volume is going to give me the intensity. I need, since i'm not closing this off into a foil um. You know i'm not getting that incubator from foil i'm getting from this clay, shell, so increasing the energy is going to help me get some softness and some extra lift in the back. So what you guys can see is i'm taking these inverted v sections right and i'm actually grabbing them, pinching them towards the end right. There i sprayed a little neuro protect, which is a styling product, but in this case it's allowing flyaways. That might be happening from my rubber gloves. It'S allowing those hairs to kind of stick together and it's not going to alter our processing at all here. So i spray that to keep everything flatter and now working with those ends, i'm applying my highly saturated ends really working it into the ends and then just softly, bringing that or blurring that line away by softly moving that brush up. So it's really in the hands here: it's in the wrist, it's how you guys are painting, but it's also what you're feeling with your fingers. I want to feel where i want it to be lighter and brighter. I really got to push that product in there and make sure it's saturated, more products going to give me more lift, that's any any kale and clay shell or any shell light or any balayage or hand painting lightener you guys are working with that is the truth. Use your hands to drive it in a little bit and then put that coating on the top to make sure it stays nice and moist for a longer period of time. If lightner dries out, it stops working. So the key with with clay lighteners is to really add a lot up base it layer it keep it soft where you don't want to get too much lift and more of a blend but layer it where you guys want that lift. So i'm just working this up, it's purely visual back here and again, i'm not looking for a high concentration of blonde, i'm not looking for a high level of blonde back here, i'm really looking for a softness and a blend just to add some movement. So when she moves her head, the shape stays strong, but the color kind of gives it a little wave. You know so you can see that there's a little bit of movement placed in with the lightener here, so we're also working with what she previously has. You know and we're working in that so where she's already previously lightened she's going to lighten a little bit more. So it's going to give me kind of an organic feel and a lot of guests. They love that you know and and giving them the best of both worlds, sometimes works as well. She has that foil placement that traditional pop from a from a weaved out foil in the front, and she gets to experience that balayage love. That'S you know that blended hand-painted result into the back, so she really does have the best of both worlds going on so uh. Also what i love about, uh paw mitchell skylight, is once that kaling clay. Shell starts to form it forms rather quickly. It prevents transfer. So i can really just drop my sections on top of each other and not worry about bleed marks or things like that because of that kaling clay, shell, so using we all have a lot of lighteners selections and choices out there. It'S choosing the right, lightner and knowing when to choose it. That really makes a big difference. So experiment play that's what makes us artists when you guys are working with your hands all right so now that the back is done, i'm going to work in those little inverted triangle: sections along the side, i'm going to take a slight diagonal approach. This is about as much of a styler as i can be, i'm going to teasy. What i'm doing, when i tease is i'm removing weight from the ends, pushing it up to the regrowth, which is going to give me another lived-in effect slightly different than what i've done with the balayage. So i'm going to tease these kind of back to back and again you're really looking at how much lightness you want. You know the less you tease back down the brighter you're going to be on those ends. The more you tease, the softer, more blended you're going to be so there's a personal preference that comes in here. Also hair texture is really going to tell me a lot about what to do and when what's their hair like is it thick? Is it thin? Is there a lot of it a little bit of it all those things take into consideration, so uh we're gon na leave that regrowth down again, we don't want that color right to the root. We want more of a lived-in effect. So all three of these techniques are going to come together and again they're going to blend what we're doing a little bit but also add you know in some ways a little bit of strength of the shape. You know it's kind of what's on trend in the salon. It'S nothing mind-blowing here that we're doing it's really kind of simple basic stuff that you know you guys are going to have clients and guests that you know they're going to want. These looks and that's what we're trying to do give you some some looks and some techniques that you can build into your repertoire that enable you to earn a living and make some money on on your clients here also, you know these are all can be used In one technique like this, or they can all be broken up into several different ways and used differently um, you know so take it as a starting point. So all that's done now. We created our three different movements. We are now going to go with chroma, xg and tone. We are working with six stroke, one one, seven stroke, eight, zero and ten volume and we are going to work with ten stroke. Eight one, eight stroke, eight six on the ends um also at 10 volume. So we're replacing our six ash ash and our seven pearl natural and ten. This is our deeper tone. We'Re gon na paint that right over in this bottom area here we wan na, add depth, but we've already just kind of created that lightness and softness with our hand, painting we're gon na continue to paint that six one one, seven eight zero on all the regrowth Through here um - and you guys will see us really kind of painting that in we're adding dimension again, we wanted this look to add some strength to the ends. That'S why we added a lot of lightener to the ends, but we want to add some softness and blend at the root. So you know it has a little softer feel of the regrowth and your eyes are drawn to those stronger blonder lighter ends, giving that shape. Some strength visually with color, just like strength, was put in with the scissor. So same thing, six stroke, one one, seven stroke, eight zero, ten volume, all the regrowth; and now what i'm doing is i'm taking our ten stroke, eight one um and our eight stroke, six or eight v and ten volt, and i'm applying that to the end. If you guys notice, i left the hairline out uh. Initially, i did all those sides first and then put the hairline in just because i want my hairline to be a little bit brighter, so put it on last. You know where the longer something processes a little more depth and processing time you give something a little more depth, you're going to get from it. So i put that left that hairline out a little bit just so it stays a little bit softer, not much, but a bit, i'm applying this six stroke, one one and the seven stroke, eight zero, ten ball at the root and then i'm taking that ten stroke. Eight one eight six and applying it on the ends: blending that together i'm gon na process it for 20 minutes and now matt's gon na take it away with his hair ai training, all right guys. So i want to share with you this brand new technology and device by paul mitchell. This is hair ai. You can pick it up on the app store uh. So basically, what it does it walks you, through a consultation with your clients. So once we finish janelle's hair, i asked her a bunch of questions. I scan her scalp, i scan her ends and then it's going to give me a breakdown, a hair breakdown that i can send to her. So she knows exactly how to take care of her hair, but not only is it going to do that, it's also going to help recommend products in the salon and she can purchase them right there through your online store or right there in the salon. You can give them to her and she can walk home with it. So it's a super cool tool. I know you guys are gon na, like it check out hair ai by paul mitchell. Now that everything's styled out - and it's looking really good - you guys - can see the beautiful results that we have. We have that little pop around the face that roots kept in that softness is in through the back um. You can see it transitioned from dark to medium to light around the face. We have a beautiful, happy, happy guest here with a great makeover and crema xg synchro lip plus for the stars in this. One guys have fun with it, make it yours, and hopefully it helps you guys, earn a living behind the chat.