3D Red'S Hair Color Technique | Full Class

  • Posted on 20 October, 2020
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What'S up guys welcome to today's class we're gon na have a lot of fun uh today we're gon na do something totally different. We'Re gon na do some hair color today, i know you're all very excited about it. Uh. What'S up lynn good to see you mallya tiffany, mary liz? What'S up, what's up kylie carol, all right so before we start the class today, obviously this uh! This is we're gon na learn. So i want you guys to post your questions, type them in the chat. Um, let me move some of this stuff out of the way. If you have a question type q and put in your question, i'm going to move these questions over here. Let'S go here, move that there oh whoops uh. Let'S see, let me go over here and uh. So if you have any questions, type q put in your question in the chat, if you're new to this show you've never watched. This show before then uh type new in the chat and if you're, an og you've been watching this you're an original we're 64 episodes. In uh 64 classes since march, since the the quarantine and all of that uh, we went to town on teaching. So if you guys have been watching this for a very long time, type og in the chat as well uh, this show is brought to you by my friends at minerva, beauty uh. If you're looking for salon furniture check out minerva, i can't talk. What was that uh go to minervabeauty.com and pick up your salon? Furniture? I literally just did a virtual, hands-on class for the last hour and 15 minutes uh. Hopefully, some of you guys are on here um, but we were working on a zoom call and it was a lot of fun um, but i've been teaching for an hour straight already, so this is going to be very fun very interesting and today we're going to Be doing color so check out we're going to be doing reds we're going to call this class 3d reds, i'm going to try to create some three-dimensional, uh kind of deposited color, basically so a color technique. This could also be used for toning, that's kind of where i want this to go. So not only is it a great uh technique for toning, but also you know you can do it as a block color technique as well. So audrey good to see you thanks for joining, let's see, adele, what's up good, to see you all right so again the chat kind of flies by so it's hard for me to uh, see your questions, but if you type q and put in your question that Gives me a much better view when i'm scrolling through to see when you guys have those questions, and i can answer them again - we're going to have some fun. So, let's start coloring the head. I want to talk about my formulation: choice, those guys that are new. I mostly cut hair, but i have educated color for a long time so today i decided to change things up a little bit and come up with a color technique for you guys so we're gon na use 20 volume developer on all three um. All three formulas here: let me lock that in for you, so we've got a 5nc. This is all joyco lumashine use, whatever color line you want just obviously know kind of what we're doing so. We got our nice uh, natural, copper and then we have a copper, copper, a level six, and then we have a level eight uh, which is an eight nwb and then eight and c. What i want to do is just warm up a nice beige tone for the lightest, color and then kind of where this is all coming from. Let me move over to the doll head here. This is the cut that i did in my virtual, hands-on class. Yesterday. Uh beautiful face frame haircut, so what i wanted to do is just kind of highlight this and create a color technique for this particular hair hairstyle. So i hope you guys are excited to learn this with me here all right, so i'm going to mix things up. Let'S get into the chat here, yep yep in here please help me kathleen. A lot of people have thin hair. We uh i get a lot of requests for uh fine haircuts. I live in north jersey need a new stylist hey if there's any stylist in the chat, that's from new jersey, please let barbara know that you can help her out all right kind of been watching for a couple weeks. Now, i'm hooked thanks judy. That'S awesome! All right here we go carly. You want to take a seat over here, carly's going to help me out, see it for her. There you go all right, so carly can see your questions for me. Let'S start mixing some color all right. So first we're gon na mix up the 5nc. You guys could measure this stuff. Obviously i recommend measuring it. Here'S the reason why a lot of people don't measure color, but if you mess up your measurement - and you add a little too much developer into uh, your color bowl you're, going to dilute the pigment so you'll get less gray coverage all that stuff. So just make sure that you do that for me today, i'm going to do about half this tube, actually we're going to go the full tube joyco paid for this. So we'll go all in. Thank you, joyco, okay, so full tube and then two ounces of developer pour that in 20 volume we're working on blonde hair. I could use 10 volume probably could use five uh we're just depositing now, six cc, it's gon na, be our our medium tone, but our most vibrant. So my goal here was to have a nice kind of natural looking base. The 5nc will give me that natural feel nice little copper, red and now i've got the 6cc, which is going to be more of a vibrant pop of copper um on the hair color. And then we have a nice bl blonde tone at a level. Eight that we're gon na mix in that copper but keep the beigey feel to it as well. So i lost who asked this question? Oh, so you can move the mouse over and scroll up just like kind of swipe with your fingers, two fingers, or maybe one there like again um - why 20 volume why 20 volume? So i tried to kind of explain this, but um i'm going 20 volume just because uh i just want to keep it standard throughout the bowls, i'm working on blonde hair so, like i said if i was doing a toning technique, probably 5 10 volume. This is permanent hair color. I wanted to get it's on mannequin hair, so really those are kind of my choices. Just i just want to add a little more strength to get into the mannequin hair nikki asked if the 20 volume um she said, will the 20 volume not lift it? Well, no, i mean because she's blonde, so it's not going to lift her any blonder than she is, but it will open it up. Like i said guys, it depends on the canvas. So if i was going to uh, obviously, if she was blonde, i did a blondie technique. I did balayage. I was going to use this as a toning technique. Then i would go in five volumes, so i didn't get any lift um, i'm not really afraid she's not going to lift so, but i do need the intensity of the 20 volume all right, so i'm going full in with the 8nwb and then i'm going to Put in the 8 and c right into that same bowl, so nancy, i see your question there um. I looked at my email right up until the class. I didn't see anything so i apologize for that. I send the link out the day before to everybody that bought a ticket, so send me an email again and i will make sure you get the replay of the class and make sure that you're ready for next week for sure. Okay. So i got all this stuff. Let me get rid of this. We'Ve got all of our formulas. I'M just gon na put that right there. So ks asked: how do you know what color to mix with another color? Are they the same level or is it variety? So the reason i i mixed - the 8nwb and the 8nc together, my goal was, to just add a little more of that copper tone to the 8nwb, so they were the same level. Obviously, no, if you mix like an 8 and a 6 together, you're going to get probably more like a level seven, so you got to be careful level wise what you're choosing, but if you're choosing the same level, it's just more your artistic feel so uh. Just deciding well, what do you want your tone to be 8 and wb would have been fine by itself, but i wanted it to kind of go with my 5 and c and my 6 cc to have that little bit of copper feel. So that's why i mixed it together. All right, monica said, is that good? Is this good for gray coverage, so coppers i mean so anything with a browner base. I would put, i would add, into to my colors, so the nc i feel like i would. I would be very confident that i would get my coverage. The cc would probably be super vibrant on gray hair, especially lighter gray hair, so i would probably add a little bit of a brown base to that, and then the 8 and wb would be fine. What i find is that sometimes, when you have too light so if i went above a level eight, then i i lack a little bit of gray coverage, um or if i lack brown pigment, because the way that color works guys for me or what i know About it is that brown plays as a filler right. So if you have super blonde hair and you're trying to um, let me do this. If you have super blonde hair and you're trying to uh take it down levels, you've got to fill it. You'Ve got to fill it with the lacking pigment, so let's say she's a level nine. You got to fill it with the oranges, the reds, to bring it down to that level. Five. If you don't, then um, it won't take so we're kind of working. In that same scenario, a little bit, except for the 6cc, i'm excited for the the vibrancy in the copper, we're putting it on blonde hair, and then the 5nc has a little bit of brown in it. So we'll get that kind of filler effect as well, plus we're playing with oranges. So all right, many of you guys, are excited about this. Let me know in the chat: let's see a hundred or your favorite emoji, i don't care which one it is. Could you please write down the color formula in the description below yeah for sure actually carly? If you hit on the text, i teach you something here: get that text right there yep click that and you could type in so do you know what they are kind of 5nc, let's put 10 volumes, so we don't get 120 volume questions uh from people just Checking in because that doesn't really matter, what's that, based mid shaft yeah, all right, so carly's writing down the formula for you guys so it'll be up there in a sec. Here'S our beautiful cut from yesterday's class. If you guys took that, thank you for doing that. Um it's one of my favorite cuts. I'Ve cut in a long time, so some long layers throughout the back here. So i want to create some dimension and depth within that um. So then it was 6cc and then 8nwb with 8 nc, yeah and wb cool. All right so that 5nc so then you can move it. Carly, like you, can pick it up. You can make it smaller, move it to the other side. Maybe there you go cool, yeah nailed, it all right so base mid, shaft we're going to be doing the 5nc 8cc 8nwb, with the 8nc we're going to be doing throughout the top to really pop that brightness. So the way that i look at hair color is, i want to make it as natural looking as possible, so um, so we're going to play off all of our sectioning in that way. The way that we're going to make it three-dimensional is i'm going to use some triangles. Some zigzag partings create depth within it. So let's go right here and i'm going to show you guys the back here and let's, let's get messy here. So i'm going to start in my depth area right here in the back. So i'm going to start by zigzagging across the back of the head. Just like that, the deeper those triangles the more depth i can create so twist that up and away clip it. I use a couple here, all right, so i'll turn it. So you guys can see so look at the uh, the zigzag, so that creates that depth. So now i'll use my 5nc and i'm going to come right up into the hair, i'm going to start painting those triangles and i'm really not. I i color hair way different than i cut it. So there's nothing precision about my uh, my hair coloring technique. I actually think the more organic you can make it the better, so colors might argue with me on that. But for me i like to really blend these tones together. So i'm going to work that 5nc base mid shaft ends at the very bottom, and what i was saying earlier is that um, when you work with oh yeah good, when you work with color, i think having a more natural feel is the best. So having it be the deepest tone in the bottom not saying color, black and color, it white, like the deepest tone like it's two levels different. So i don't really want uh things to be that crazy, uh highs and lows. So i'm going to work all that color through where's, my comb here all right. So that's the first tone so guys i did use 20 volume and this is going to come up, but i'm only doing that for the mannequin. I should have just poured 20 volume in the 10., so another zigzag here across, and this is why this is a great toning technique as well, because it's very quick, so you're just creating depth with the zigzag. So now i'm going to go with my 6 cc tone through it paint through here carly. Can you go to number five camera? This is where i get color all over my stuff back out a little bit just hopefully not on my shoes. So i'll ask all right so 6cc painting this entire section again, these are only one level different. That'S why it's? Okay! If they were crazy, different levels, then i would change things up. Just a little bit maybe add a depth root and then add in the lighter, more vibrant tone. Mid shaft ends. Okay and remember guys, if you have questions type q put in your question, carly will read it to me. I can see them. Let'S try to get this as interactive as possible. Doesn'T even have to be about this technique can be about anything so monica said um. I want to ask what color brand would you use instead of these colors? If you didn't have like what i don't know, i don't understand so to to help people that don't have this color brand like if you're not using joyco um, then just find there's got to be a neutral, copper and if there's not just find your copper and Add brown to it. That would help kind of create that tone and then use your straight copper for the medium tone and then, whatever your nb um, add a little bit of gold to it and add a little bit of copper to it like you can create those kind of tones. It'S pretty pretty simple stuff ray said: white shoes in red color. Are you crazy? I know i know i wasn't thinking uh about it at all. It'Ll be fine, it'll be fine. Oh i just went flying all right. So go back to that front camera a little bit number two yep! So here's our zigzags into our second section, so we've got our five nc below and then we've got our um six cc here and now i'm gon na do the same thing. Here'S the other thing guys a little fun fact um. While this process is i'm going to show you guys a dry haircut, so stay tuned, see what i did last time. I called it. Carly see all these buttons. I mean i put color all over them all right. So now we're still working through the back here, but i'm gon na start working with my lighter tone now so zigzag through we'll go here, zigzag zigzag! This is all in the crown area. I'M gon na go a little deeper like that check it out all this fun hair coming off here so now clip this section away. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to work that 5nc right now in the base of this section. So this is going to be our deeper tone into these triangles and then we're gon na melt. Our eight our level eight color into the mid shaft and ends so i'm painting it through those zigzags. So imagine doing this at the bowl, especially in a minerva bowl right you go through. You can zigzag real, quick apply. Your toner do a few different tones for your toner and then you get a multi-dimensional blonde doing this technique. So it's a it's a pretty cool way to create options in your color, and you can also charge a little extra for a more customized toner, which makes sense so now. This is my level eight i'm going to work that mid shaft to ends um ethan would like to know. Is there a brand of color bowl and brush that you like to use, or it doesn't matter yeah i mean it doesn't really matter for me uh. I do like the um. What'S that brand that i like from r i like for more stuff, uh, bowls and brushes. I, like liz, said if you're using such big sections, how are you being sure that the color fully saturated the hair at the base or the root um? Well, i'm combing it through so uh. That'S another thing and they're not really that big of sections they're a couple inches but i'm, like, i said, not a precise color, but once i get that that color on then i'll comb it so now i'll start mid shaft to ends, because this is more of A color melt and i've got a deeper base, so i'll make sure that that's through there and then i'll work that color through on each little part here to make sure. Then once i get that i run it through my hands a couple more times and then i'll also give a little extra saturation to the base before i leave it alone for the rest of the processing time. So, just like that, ks said. Why are you zigzagging? I'M zigzagging to create uh depth into the the movement of the the hair, so we have some layers underneath here different things going on. What i want to do is when you come up in those triangles. It brings this level five into my level six. So it's kind of they start mixing and matching. Instead of going straight line and just having a color, color or color, it's a more diffused feel to the color. All right, let's go so i want to start getting in, and this is where i'll start to. Like look at what's happening in the head, so as i lift her up start looking at what i'm creating so i'm gon na do a zigzag in the side here. Why are you going from the 5nc to the 8nc and not the 6cc, because i don't want hot roots, so i don't want fiery copper roots in that hair color. That'S that's really. My goal is to not have that. So the only part that really is going to have that is, that little blanket in the bottom and now i'll work that copper through um, which will give me some copper pieces. So this is kind of that triangle thing too, in the in the zigzag. If this piece up here is colored, 5nc and then 6cc, and then this is but then this piece is colored a different color. Now you've got different variations of different colors, even though i color the base with the 5, the five uh nc, it's still giving me a variation of highs and lows with the mid shaft ends, so that's kind of where my my head is at when i'm painting This stuff on, can you use this technique with all color applications? Yeah for sure, like this is a black color technique. Um, i would say like in a nutshell, um, but here so you can really use it with any color any tones. Uh use it for toning. It'S a pretty versatile thing so there and then i'm gon na do the level eight, because this is the very bottom section, and i don't want that. Copper popping uh straight out the bottom: that's just personal choice: there we go and re-saturate 5nc now working through the top here brush. So this is how she parts her hair. Uh is off to the side. I'Ll show you guys that real quick, so you can see where we're going to move to. So this all falls over this side and she parts over there. So i want to be careful when i'm moving with these zigzags that the top is going to kind of have its own feeling kind of more of an organic feel, instead of it being so blocked through the top. So what i'll do is the first thing? I'M going to grab this whole top section and i'm going to zigzag through that right around that parietal ridge area and i'm going to clip that up and away like that, i'm going to come around the other side. So now we've got this kind of underneath zigzag over to this parting. Now this is all underneath and then everything else up in my hand, this is all the top. So it's important to know where that top's going to fall i'll twist, this up clip it away. Question how much would one expect to pay for something like this in the salon? So if i was charging so it depends obviously based on your your pricing. So let's just look at it from a a basic pricing standpoint. For me, this is a black color technique. So if you have a multi-dimensional color price, that's what i would charge for this. So, instead of doing, let's say like a um, a single color on one of your guests, even if they're an older client, instead of doing a single color, you could do this kind of multi-dimensional color and create movement in their hair and just up charge. It a little bit so. Let'S say that your single color, 60 bucks, then i would say this would probably be like 110 80, something like that. Um just you're not using a ton more color, even though i mixed a lot in my bowls today, but in the salon like you're, just using probably like an extra bowl or maybe half an ounce of of each tone. Just to add in a little bit of uh difference so just to change things up, no one wants a single color every single time so going in there accenting your hair cut a little bit, creating something just a little bit new. Maybe adding in some of these fall tones, that's always kind of a win-win lindsay asks. Would this be difficult to do again when you have free regrowth on the client so lindsey? This is the greatest part about this. I'M doing the 5nc pretty much all the way through the route, so it's a 5nc touch-up. So you don't even have to do this every single time. You could just do the 5nc, touch-up and then every other time add some dimension in there. Does it need to match up every time no way so uh and also, depending on you know the base or whatever um you could like, depending on what her ends fade to and all of that uh? It really will help. You decide whether you're gon na just go in, and and do it all organically again or if you want to follow a little bit of a pattern, because no matter what it's going to be pretty similar. So this is now we're going to add in some of that copper tone again, but still doing the 5 nc base through it and then the six cc through mid shaft to ends go just like that there. It is last section underneath right at that: parietal ridge it'll be again five and c, and then the eight nwb, oh here it says, a-n-w-m-b, it's got my initials in it. Somebody'S googling that one all right, there's that shirley wants to know. How long do you leave the dye on before washing it out so 35 minutes we'll process and then we'll wash it um and then i'll blow it dry for you guys, and you can see it again, those of you guys just tuning in i'm gon na, do A haircut while this processes i'm a dry haircut, his battery died. We will be right back. You, sorry, guys i'll be right there, just getting the batteries for the microphone alexa. This is the joyco um lumashine and it is a you are correct, unnatural, warm! I believe it's is it natural, warm beige or brown. It is a natural, warm blonde, warm blonde beige blonde. Okay, that's always fun! You never know when those things are going to go out all right so now we're moving in this is the pridal ridge on the opposite side, so 5nc here danny asked. Would the process be different? If you start with a brunette, would you need to bleach first uh, no uh, so it would be more subtle for sure, like you'll, be able to see the pops of colors on this, because it's blonde, obviously um, but you and i'm gon na put the copper In this part, but you uh you could just it would just be more subtle so like if i had a client who is a level six single color, let's say and she has gray hair. I would do her touch up level six and then her ends. I'D probably just try to throw in different tones through it, so like adding, maybe a little bit of copper to it. Um or adding you know just a different, maybe an ash, to add a little depth and then create like an nb to give you kind of more of a caramel kind of softer brown yeah. Those those kind of things create that dimension in the hair. So then that way you can, you know just create that movement like if i was going to try to accent a haircut. I might do a an ash based tone underneath to show depth in that haircut, but at the same level, so i could do like a level 6a which might feel more like five-ish and then do like a 7a highlight or something like that through it. With these zigzag partings just to just to pop a little bit of movement into the hair, all right so now what i'm going to do through the top? You want to go the top view carly. What i'm going to do through the top is just paint this like a regular touch up, so we did all the zigzags through it now. I just want to really create a nice soft color melt through the top um. You could paint this. You know just the level eight uh for me. I want to keep the base kind of at that level. Five bring in some depth. Maybe a shadow root uh look to it, so i'm gon na paint that and then all the way through this top i'm just gon na color melt the level eight in so just like this paint, my five again and then i'll work, the the entire ends. Michelle said i just want to thank you for the cut last week went into work the next day and so owned. It came out. Absolutely stunning. Wait did who's cut like i'm, assuming the one that you that we did, video yeah, oh, oh, she owned like doing it. I was like whoa at least i think that's what jimmy and michelle yeah. I think she does too. Okay. Sorry, i'm a little slow. She um, i thought she met. I gave her a cut. I'M like did. I cut somebody's hair last week and uh she owned that that's what i thought all right so same thing. This is gon na, be through those mid shaft to ends blending that color. Keeping that level five at the base do these ends too. What do you do when reds won't cover resistant, gray, hair and what is the best shampoo for red since it lightens so quickly, so they make a lot of great red shampoos now, but i also think that um with gray hair, adding brown, so i think a Lot of people don't think about that, but gray hair is really no different than blonde hair and when you put red or any color on blonde hair or lighter hair a lot of times, you need that filler for it to hold. So i would just add some brown to it and then you won't really have a problem all right, so you can see that's that depth, that level five and then it works into my level eight to create that shadow root. And now i'm just working my way through the top guys like not really not changing things up too much just coloring the bass normal touch up and then going through mid shaft ends with the lighter tone you could mix in a little bit that copper. If you wanted to, if you had a guest that was looking for a little pop in the top, i couldn't even say that on purpose a little pop on the top. But for me i like it to be nice and soft, so um, you know i'm more of a salon friendly kind of natural feel, even though we use some of that copper in there, it's still going to have a really nice natural fall to it. Okay, any other questions. Carly hmm. Would there be a difference if you first colored the root and then went back through no, no, not at all so um. That'S a great question. I i'm just doing it at the same time, so i don't have to go back. Um - and it helps me make sure that i'm you know saturating everything it just. You know making sure that i cover everything. So i take smaller sections because i'm doing the same thing all the way through and then i do the ends. Okay, almost done ks asked. If you travel um and have class in any salons um, i used to teach classes in salons all the time, but i no longer i'm doing it this way now i just enjoy the digital way of teaching and traveling's a bit scary right now too, so so For now i'm doing this but uh, but i do like i'm looking into doing virtual salon trainings for sure in some way or another. We do really like these zoom, so we've been doing hands-on, zoom classes, uh, where you buy tickets, for uh learning, fundamentals of hair, cutting and different things, and it's been really successful and honestly, i think it's more beneficial than even a hands-on class, because you're. So as long as you have the right equipment to do it like for us, we can show multiple angles. I have a big screen, so i can see people working um, so i feel like i'm definitely equipped to do it and i can visually see everybody right in front of my face working so for that it's definitely uh it's it's kind of a it's become one Of my favorite things is to do those classes because i like interacting with everybody and like right now, it's there's a chat going. I can't really read it because i'm working so it's harder, but on the zooms you can talk to me. So it's just a different feeling. Monica said, would you use any gloss at the end, so i mean this color is real shiny, so i don't really feel any conditioning like i don't feel like. I need to um. I guess it would depend um. You could also do this technique with a gloss, so, instead of um doing it with hit permanent hair color, you could do it with a gloss or demi uh things like that at the bowl, like i talked about like doing this as more of a toner than Doing it as a you know, block color technique like we just did, so it's really up to you guys what you want to do with it all right. There'S one thing i want to: let's comb through this five here, a little bit the bottom section and we're good all right so now, once i get it done or applied, then what i'll do is just kind of go through everything. Color dread it a little bit. If i see kind of melt some of these colors together, if i want to just depending on the look you're going for, do you want to go to the side view carly, so you can see all the different fun colors and levels, and that's why we do The zigzags, because it'll pull some of these higher and some of them lower than others, but it's gon na be super fun. You can see that shadow root in there. You see how much i painted her face. That'S always good too! No! I love that this is the best part about pivot point mannequins. They don't stain. So when you make youtube videos, you can make that go away and no one ever knows it happened. Not lives, not lives. All right. So now we're gon na. Let that process also carly's gon na check it for any uh any little mistakes i made in there and it's going to come back in 35 minutes a brand new lady. So here's the other thing that we're going to do and carly. If i run over a little bit on this cut because we're doing a two fur today, twofer two for one - oh, let me go here all right. Thank you. So much shirley appreciate that um all right, i'm gon na make this color formula, go away for a little bit, um five and six to the root and eight on the tips yeah pretty much eight uh. That was that was about what we did um biggest difference in there uh is. I did use that six cc as well in in a couple places just to pop some copper into the color from our color defender for the face for sure. Joyco makes a good color uh remover too, for the face um, all right, sweating, already guys you're working me here, good job, good job, all right, so here we go. Let'S do some dry cutting now. So what we're going to do is i've already got this pre-colored? Lady here and what i'm thinking is we're going to do a dry cut kind of long bob feel to this head. It'S like a hair shell. Today, all right! Originally, i was going to do a q a during the processing time but uh today. Today'S special so we're going to smooth this, i'm just gon na polish it a little bit here. My hands are sticky from the gloves all right. Let'S see here, tiff no cut just color today, lynn you're wrong, you're, wrong lin, we're cutting now we're cutting. Now, all right, you guys know i'm not just gon na color hair i have to like i'm going to cut it. I have to cut so a little iron. Let'S get her smoothed out a bit and then i'm going to go in i'm going to cut a long bob using a really fun dry cutting technique here. So if you guys are watching - and you want to know when i go live, send me a text. Uh 215-608-2612. That'S my number just say: hi and that'll activate you into me having your information and being able to text you when i'm about to go live so you never miss these live classes. Stephen asked: where can he buy these mannequins? So these are pivot point mannequins uh, i'm not sure you can go to pivot point or pivot dash point dot com to pick them up. I like using the gwen, which is the one i had before this is the diane. I believe she's got a little bit. Thicker hair than gwen um, so it just depends on what you're you're looking for, and i also love the erika which has brown hair. So they all have the same face. It'S weird, but what's your number again? 2. 1. 5. Oh, you can hit this text. Yeah cool right so make my nerve that one and do this there. It is so yeah just send me a text to that number below and it'll. Let you know anytime, i go live on any of the channels. Also, if you download our app fse now on the app store, you can you'll get alerts when the classes are coming up too all right. So i just wanted to smooth this out a little bit. I was going to cut it wavy and i changed my mind. That happens a lot so sorry for the delay here, but we got 35 minutes so carly. Can you really like actually make sure that i didn't miss anything on that yeah? Did you look at it? I did oh okay, it looked good so now we can blame carly. Could you do like? Could you make this a side? Part haircut? Are you doing yeah somebody asked for that yeah yeah. Your wish is my demand. You got it all right cool, so we'll base this off of side parting and we're going to do a long. Bob who's excited put your hands up. Who'S excited all right. I'M going to use my minerva blow dryer to power this to the side a little bit because she wants to be in the middle, but all right, so i'm going to blow it dry a little bit. Can you turn my mic down a little bit number one! Yeah like further cheryl, it was joyco all right, she's staticky, i'm gon na try to make this go away. I might might be even changing my mind again. Oh there we go look at that bam. Here'S a little fun tip for you guys if you want to make static, go away in your hair, hair's feeling a little fly away, just grab a little blonde life, brilliant glow, all right. Let'S cut a long bob together, so we're going to start off in the back. What i'm going to do! This is going to be very simple sectioning because i don't want to over complicate anything for you guys and it's a dry haircut, not a wet cut. So we're doing things a little bit different. Okay, i'm gon na get a wider tooth comb uh when you cut dry hair, it's good to use wide teeth, just for the ease of combing; to be honest: okay, zoom in let's put the minerva logo back up that one and get rid of the text one. Hopefully you guys got that written down, so it should say minerva. I think there. It is all right. So i'm going to go straight down center back like that and i'm going to comb the rest of this hair over basically working that occipital bone area. So i'll comb, the hair over and i'll slide my clip up in there do the same thing on the opposite side here straight over and then i'll slide. My clip up under a little tighter okay. So now i'm going to start working in this center back she's got a little bit thicker hair than the previous mannequin. So let's just pretend like she's got pretty thick hair cause. She does uh. So when i think about this haircut, i'm gon na think about it. In a more thick hair way, so i'm gon na take a vertical section out of the back and i'm gon na work a tease, cutting technique from short to long. So i want to work that tease cutting technique because that'll give me a soft line, and you guys know this watching me for a while. But if you're new to the show today, um here is: oh, my gosh just stepped in my own way. Okay, so if you're new to the show uh you half open and then you push in and close, so it's a half open or it's open and then half closed and you're just teasing into the hair pushing into the hair and half closing through. So let me show you this. I'Ve got my vertical section here and i'm just going to work short to long just like that, and that will start my cut. So then i grab another section of hair. Bring that over to that center point like this, i'm going to work short to long, you can just shut it off, hit the power button, all right and again bring it straight back to me, i'm not over directing all the way to the center, i'm just over. Directing slightly back uh towards the center towards the previously cut section, is this the puffin? So this isn't the puffin, but it's very similar. So this is mine, actually uh. It'S not released at this point um, but it's it's a similar. So it's got my handle uh, but the same kind of blade as the puffin. So if you have the puffin very similar, if you don't have the puffin you're looking for a dry cutting scissor, just wait, because it's coming so working my way through now, i'm not worried about this outer perimeter line. Okay, so that i'm going to iron again, because this hair needs to be ironed again and then i'll cut the outer perimeter last, but also in a long bob. You kind of want that textured broken line. So i'm not really that worried about it same thing. On the opposite side here so comb, the hair towards the center towards the previous section and i'm going to cut short and get a little bit longer there. It is and the same thing here like that, so now i'm actually going to iron this. So you guys can see what it really looks like because right now it's it's got that slight wave to it. So let me iron it so i'll. Just give it a little bevel. So you'll start to see it like how it starts to soften in uh. Once you start ironing it and that's because of that tease cutting it gives it a really soft line, then obviously, on the bottom here: iron that okay, so i'll, let that be for now, because that's good enough and then i'm going to go in and cut the Next section up: let's do this, i'm just going to work this side we're going to do a stroking technique now, so we're changing from tease cutting to stroking. So like this, my guide's going to come from the bottom, i'm going to take a diagonal slight diagonal forward. Section there's my guide: it's going to fall out and then i'm just going to work. This is a full close of the scissor all the way down. Now i move over bring this back to the previous watch. It fall out still diagonal forward, bring it back. Watch the guide fall and just keep working my way, bringing the hair straight back, and this is the part side. So there's a lot less hair over here, but because we're over directing back and we're getting further away as we move up on the head, it's uh. It'S getting longer in the front back here. There'S my guide last little bit so now. We'Ve got a nice textured side, i'll smooth that out in a second, you guys will really be able to see it. Do the same thing on the opposite side here. Go who's tried this put your hand up in the chat, so now i'm working top to bot or bottom to top. If the client has curly hair yeah for sure it's a good technique for curly hair, i might go more tease technique, but but you can always do this too. Uh just depends because with curly hair you don't want to hold it too tight um. If you're going to wear it curly, you don't want to pull the tension too much, so i would just kind of pull individual hairs out and cut it. This way not individual hairs, but sections like smaller, like i, i might pinch a little bit of a section and just come in and cut it that way. It'S all coming back, i'm really just cutting this at a basic stationary area, not necessarily a guide, but just bringing it back to start to see how it works its way forward. It'S hard to see a right now screen. Let me start ironing and you guys can feel it coming together. She'S frizzy angelina said she is still afraid of doing the tease, cutting what other techniques would you recommend um point cutting if you don't want to do the tease cutting is fine uh. I think i like the tease cutting, because i feel like it just gives me a real soft effect. I think it's safer than point cutting to be honest, but if you're more comfortable uh controlling your point, cutting then do that there's nothing nothing wrong with it, but and then the stroking technique, which i was just doing. You know that you could do point cutting as well um, i just kind of like the flow of of the stroking technique. You'Ll start to see uh kind of that nice bevel and that smoothness to it we're gon na cut this using some pointing. But that's what people like the uh, the the way that you're able to cut with dry hair and cut a really nice long bob with this technique is really cool. Lindsay asks how low should you go from the hairline at the back of this cut, and also is this cut cut into a side parting, and can you do a center and then move it to the side, so we're doing a side parting, because that was the Request at the beginning, um, here's, the here's, the rule in my in my opinion, you can't do the bangs have to kind of go in the direction that that the client's going to wear them. You can't really have the best of both worlds, but you're better off cutting it like they were going to wear it in the center. If they're gon na wear it both ways like don't cut it to the side like we're doing, if she's gon na wear it in the center, so to kind of answer that you can't, you can't cut it, i can't cut it to the side and then have Her put it in the middle, but vice versa is okay like it would just be a little weighty, i'm going to cut a side bang in a second with that technique, though. Okay, here we go yeah how long it's been carly yeah. We have um 10 minutes. Jeez, look at that. It'S like salon reality, hair cutting, i'm almost done doing a cut, while my color processes like the old days, not the covid days peg asked if this is better for thick hair or thin hair, i would say uh i like doing it on thick hair, um, thin, Hair, it does create a really nice texture, but you want to be very careful about soft lines and taking out too much weight in thin, fine hair. So so i would probably use a little more point cutting something i can control a little bit more. Here'S where i want you guys to start to see it here, like this shape that we're building it's kind of dark in that, but right now, a little bit tiffany asked how you are liking, your iron um. I like it a lot. It is a little bulky in the hand when you have a comb and this um it's one thing, i'm kind of noticing, but weight wise. I thought it was going to be a lot heavier. It'S heavy, but it's not that heavy. I love the plates um out of any iron i've ever used. The plates in this thing are really good, very smooth. So when i first got it, they were very sticky, but that's pretty typical of an iron until you get it broke in a little bit. Uh and then once it was broken in now, like it glides over the hair better than any any iron i've i've used, and i also really love the curls that it creates like i can. I can't even feel that i'm you know like when you put an iron on the hair and you feel it on there. You feel like somewhere, where it might feel a little crunchy or whatever like it, doesn't feel it feels so smooth like almost like you don't have a section of hair in there. So definitely a plus. Just so, you guys know dyson didn't sponsor this video, but they did send this to me for free for a different video. So you know, i think technically that means they paid me paid me off. I'D tell you guys the truth, though it is like bulky like in this feeling right here, trying to pinch a comb in between my fingers. If you had small hands, i think that would be a problem. That'D be harder, so i think you'd have to take your section. Maybe put your comb down, i don't know almost there guys. I would have thought she was already dry. You'D have to do this much styling cool all right. So now i'm going to cut the side fringe. It also does this really annoying thing where it yells at you? If you don't turn it off, i wonder if you can turn that off. I don't know, but all right so the side fringe, pretty simple, too diagonal forward parting here and i'm just going to bring this hair over to me and i'm going actually i'm gon na i'll do the stroking technique with it. So just like this and then i'll pick a point where do i want that to to begin, and then i have that section in my hands and i'm just going to work across. You could point cut this too. You could blunt cut this whatever you want to do. I just like doing that. Stroking technique across so another diagonal section, bring it over to me see that guide fall out, and i just work my way across you go to the top view. Carly really dark does right all right, one more section here bring it over to me, so i'd really just go to this fringe area. So when we talk about like the fundamentals uh, where the hairline meets, i don't want to go any further than that for the fringe. That starts to turn into a face frame or sideburns, depending on how you cut it i'll work my way across all right now, let's go to the front view now. This is what you guys are going to love so well. Let me connect so i'll grab a little piece here, there's not much to cut on this side. It'S the weak side, so just a little bit but watch how light this fringe is now after we cut it. So when i bring it over here, it's so lightweight and layered, it's a very light hairspray. So i want to be able to comb it out in a sec, but you can see how soft that falls. Obviously, you can blow dry it with more volume than that. If you want to, but it's got a really nice feel to it: yes, youtube it's in her eyes, i know, but i blew it dry to be like that for dry cutting when she blows it dry she'll, give it a little more volume all right. So now i want to cut into the perimeter real, quick and then we'll be almost ready to see our our color spin her around. So now you can see this shape here. That'S what my focus is and then this outer perimeter i haven't cut at all. So i'm going to go into it kind of just like this and softly point into the edge of this cut, so you'll start to see it. Turning into more of a you know, looking like a shape because the outer perimeter starts to go and match it, and then here slide a little bit, remove any pieces that are not matching up and then i'm going to do a little blow drying real, quick. So loud wow in that microphone all right a little bit of blow drying. So all right! So what do we think? How are we feeling still got our color to go through almost there halfway? Well, we're more than halfway turn up my mic. A little bit cool phone number to get texts is 215-608-2612. Here'S kind of our you can see that build up of weight in the back uh. That kind of long bob feel it's very organic. It'S not a normal bob right, so it has that kind of movement very textured line. You can make that as precise as you want, but doing that kind of stroking tease cutting technique really gives it that organic lived in appearance. So glad you guys like it. I can see it in the chat uh. Let'S talk for a minute, carly's working on getting that mannequin ready so that we can showcase it all right. Let'S see now, i can see your your chatting. What type of sheer do you use for this cut? I'M new uh is, it loves, loves um. Let'S see, let me show you what we use today, so everything that we used on the on the class except for the minerva blow dryer and obviously these cutting stools and all that get at minervabeauty.com salon. Furniture. All that stuff uh tools, scissors combs, clips everything i used in that aspect you can get on shop, fsc, which is our online store um. This is a five and a half inch dry, cutting scissor um. I sell all my zatani scissors, the one that i would look for on. There would be called the puffin. This is exclusive to me this one because i'm designing it right now. So if you want to wait a little while you can wait, but i don't know when it's coming so but mizutani puffin is a good dry, cutting scissor that i have on there um all right. So that's that, let's see oops all right. Thank you. So much all right, you guys are all awesome. Let'S see what's the country code, two country code is probably i don't know, it's probably one sweating sweating. Oh. Thank you stephen. I appreciate that uh. Thank you tiffany. Thank you, lynn tips. You can give a student to be successful uh when first starting out practice so um one of the biggest things i think for me is uh. If this is your career, there's something you love to do you have to obsess over it a little bit to learn. It um being in these kind of classes is a good start. I think too many people get complacent in this industry um they start taking for granted that clients are going to come uh that kovit's not going to happen like all these different things. I was just never satisfied with. I just wanted to keep pushing in my career. I think that's that's really the the key thing, if you're really truly doing it because you love it, then you'll be successful at doing hair for sure if you're doing it as a job, because you couldn't figure out what else to do then you're gon na have A hard time because it's a people, business, um, it's something that you have to uh. It takes a lot more than just knowing a good haircut to be a successful behind the chair, stylist um. So good luck, andrea! Good luck! Thank you! So much not sure who that is, but that's hopefully a good thing. Let'S see, thank you, adele all right cool, all right guys. Soon we are going to uh unveil the color that we did earlier. So if you guys haven't um, if you weren't here, let's recap it uh. We did a hair, color technique, uh multi-dimensional. We pull up the formula should be in there. Maybe not oh here it is so here's the formula that we did how's it look. Did i miss anything all right, good um, so the base mid shaft? We did 5nc base. So we did a 5nc 5 natural, copper uh from joyco lumashine uh we put 20 volume in there. You can use 10 volume uh. It was all deposit on blonde hair.

Stephanie Gioffre: Beautiful soft movement....Love it

Sam Jarrar: I love you , am a big fan of you , your work , your voice , you are a great hair dresser , I wish you more success ,I am watching you from Jordan

Donna Jasmin: On the second zig zag section in the back ,did you zig zag more then the bottom zig zag?

Елена Ченгаева: Hello, Mr! Your chanel is so cool!!! Thank you very muchYelena from Kazakhstan

Zoon Politikon: This makes me want to go back to Auburn, haha

Juju🐈 vlog: Love it

CJ D: @Barbara (chat is not up yet so i can't see full name. Hope u get this) I know a good one in northern NJ, one in Morris area and my gf in south Jersey. I can find the names of their salons if u like.

Lisa Rios:

Queen of Sparx: Good morning from Washington!

Maria Morales: Thanks i'm love to much rocy

Stephanie Gioffre: Good morning from Delaware

Latchme Persaud: QUESTION

academy shoji: Shoji_barber

Latchme Persaud: Q I LOVE TO SEE YOUR V

Prudence November: New

academy shoji: Iran

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