Long Textured Layered Haircut & Hairstyles Tutorial For Women | How To Cut Layers

So if you've seen me on here, awesome um, if, if you have any questions, comments or feedback, please let me know, but it's valentine's day. So i'd really like everybody who watches this to love me. So what we're going to do is we're going to talk about uh dry, cutting because something that i've noticed um i did a i've done, a razored bob. I did a shaggy long, bob and um. Today. I wanted to go in a different direction, because i've noticed everyone seems to be only talking about shags and bullets, which means that the more people talk about it. The more i feel like it's not far from being on its way out, because the more trendy things become the less uh hip. It is to subscribe to them. So trends uh, i think, are always going to rotate around and i think long pretty hair is always going to be. You know on point and um something i've noticed a lot in the salon is my clients want to be really protective over their length that they grew out during coated. Now, when someone is protected over their length - and the first thing you do is start by cutting the hair for 20 minutes in the back of their hair, where all their length is targeted, they're going to be a little bit, you know unsettled. So what kristen uh kristen is a very dear old friend of mine, so what we've done is uh we've just ironed her hair out smooth and i'm looking at the shape and assessing it, and i'm just seeing what's going on with it, because i really want to Use dry techniques that are really applicable to salon work uh to keep as much length while giving it as much interest and movement as we possibly can. So we want to keep her length as much as possible, but you know she does have some anthony cleaning up from having fine hair. That'S been highlighted a lot. She also has a little bit of a kind of natural concave shape in the front, which tends to be a pretty easy thing to achieve. When you have hair, that's layered, plus you look at the pattern of the hairline and how it drops towards the temporal corner, and then it comes down. So i'm going to start off by cutting her interior layers first, because layers are going to remove weight right. One length, hair cutting, builds the most amount of weight, graduation, which is anything from 89 degrees to zero degrees or, to one degree, is going to build up a shape and anything from 90 above off. The round of the head is going to remove weight, so we're going to remove weight and i'm going to do so by creating a concave layer using a slide cutting technique, but on a bias. So in our education program we used to have a haircut shape. That was called the sway, which was a variation of an old sassoon technique, but the sway was essentially a combination of graduation layering and bias, cutting that was uh. All you know put into one shape to teach students how to cut the posh by short haircut so and a bias is when anything is cut into infinity right without n. So i'm not going to worry about my length until the end, because what i want to do is remove the most amount of weight possible and then create a strong outline from that shattered outline. So i'm going to start from the crown and i'm going to take a center section, okay and i'm going to comb it out using my wide teeth. First, because you don't want to go through for broke right with with your fine teeth and rip through all these tangles. So i'm going to use my fine teeth to detangle the hair and then i'm going to flip my comb around right and it's not just a trick. It'S really actually helpful for salon work right, so wide teeth flip through with my fine teeth. So i actually have a fair amount of tension and i'm gon na hold the hair up where my length is starting to drop out. Okay, now here's the bias part. So here's my concave shape my left arm. That'S holding the hair is elevated up and it's pointing the internal shape downward towards the ground, and my cutting arm is diagonal working up. So this is a really organic concave flow. Okay. So now i'm going to take my cutting scissors, my shears and i'm going to only cut with the inside of my blade right here and i'm going to work out into the length of my shape. Sliding as i go towards the outline okay. So i'm gon na do that one more time, so somebody was just asking about. Could you show us what it looks like before? Basically, with uh with her hair is very long. If i get in here, you can see there is barely any layering in her hair whatsoever, and so what shawn's doing is actually adding some shape to this just extremely long, just lightly layered hair and actually going to create a lot of movement through what he's doing. Basically, if you look at hair, that's this long, especially when it's on the finer side, she has quite a bit of hair, but each strand is fairly fine and it's been chemically treated with some uh. Obviously, with some highlights what you're doing is, which or what shawn's doing is he's trying to add the movement and actually let those layers show as well as what let the highlights show a lot of times. If you were to just try to put in say two or three inches worth of layers into some long hair, like this, that's been highlighted, you're going to end up with polka dots or leopards leopard spots, totally that just do not become flattering, but by the way That shawn's cutting, so he mentioned something called bias. I know sean knows a bit about this because his mother was really into clothing as well, but the actual cutting of clothing called bias. Cutting is actually made to cut against the grain of the fabric. So when sean has taken this vertical section, you would think he would just be lifting up and cutting horizontally, but instead he's cutting concave and because he's cutting up and out with this slicing technique that is actually cutting against the head shape. That'S creating an internal concave. That'S going to add a bit of volume through the crown, but then it's going to hug through the occipital bone and let the hair kind of move at the bottom. Absolutely i mean that's about as well explained as it possibly could be. The whole point of a concave one where, when um uh designers and seamstresses were working with it was it it wasn't. It was supposed to be a really kind of just uh, a line that flowed and flared into infinity right and my mom would talk about bias. Cutting so when i was growing up, my mom was a seamstress that did all the ballet work for, like the bernal university ballet program, every other uh ballet program in metro atlanta, i mean uh, my daughter dances at the studio that i used to sit in the Car waiting for my mom to get out from fitting this board, so you know it's: it all is applicable to the same when you're using scissors and you're cutting with any kind of fabric, and here is a fabric. It all applies right so now you'll see that i'm working towards the sides. This is where your concave shape is really important to maintain okay, so i'll spin, the chair, so we can see so again, everything is still working up and the fine teeth are important and you can also see that my roots are all combed cleanly off the head. It doesn't matter that i'm working with dry hair everything is coming perpendicular to the floor so that i have even direction for everything to work in right. So now here's my guide and you can see just like all cutting whether it's whether it's dry, i have a guide and i'm starting from that guide and i'm working up and out sliding throughout the length my shape. Okay, i've actually got a friend of mine uh. His name's charlie gray, over in london he's a he's mostly does men's education, but he does do some women's as well, but he i was actually watching him, do a demonstration about two years ago and he said something that was one of those well yeah. It was one of those things that you've been doing your whole life, but you don't realize it, and one thing that i've noticed like with sean is see how he grabbed the hair at the root when he just combed through just like what he was saying. The roots uh, saying straight, it's saying: taunt, it's not going to have little buckles in it. What charlie had mentioned was like whenever he combs out of the head, he makes sure that he puts his hands close to the head to grab the hair. That way, it doesn't end up buckling a lot of times. You'Ll see people that'll just grab halfway up the shaft and then, when you go to cross check their work, you find all these bumps ridges hills and valleys. You don't necessarily know what they've come from and really what it's come from is the fact that they didn't comb the hair properly. Absolutely that's i mean you know the foundations and the basic techniques of hair cutting are so important for you to learn and master, regardless of when you went to hair school or what trends are prevalent in popular culture, i mean it's so important. That'S why it's honestly! A blessing and a curse that right now our hair cutting education culture is so over saturated with uh social, media-based, uh kind of guerrilla education, because sometimes these people do really interesting things that are executed in a way that you know it's not that i'm the best. The best hairdresser in the world, i'm not, but i'm definitely well trained, and i train people to also be well trained. So when you watch someone who just twists the entire head into the front and just takes texturizing scissors and just goes like this - to do something that looks cool on instagram, it's just like, oh man, but you know again. I think that we have to remember that all the basics apply no matter how long you've been cutting here or what type of hair cutting you're doing right so again, working my way through now, i'm just gon na i'm just gon na continue my way through, because My center guide is my basis for the entire haircut. So if you were a novice and you were trying to establish symmetry, what you might want to do is do the entire back from the line of indentation back right, but i'm going to just work my way through. The only difference is that, because i'm going to do a different type of graduation in the front, i'm going to start over directing this hair back now, you can see how right now we have a flat plane that is not going to land the shoulders nicely right. So what i want to do is i want to collapse that weight so that kristin still has a nice amount of short internal movement while having it lay really nicely into the shoulders, because there's nothing to me that you have to work harder to make something out Of than a long flat line right, that's why it's so interesting that so many uh girls that curl their hair want one length haircuts now, because by default one length, hair below a certain length doesn't do anything, which is why they have to work so hard with A curling iron and dry shampoo to make something interesting happen, whereas you could just really politely and uh professionally talk them into some different movements so that they can have options with their hair right. That'S why i think it's important as a hairdresser to always try to dominate the conversation with your clients and steer them in the right direction, because i let my clients show me pictures of what inspires them all day long. But i still talk to them about what i think those pictures need to be and how we can translate that to be something good for their hair and their face shape. Yeah somebody just asked a question and go was um. Why not put some wax in the hair to make it easier to control? That is a possibility in some cases uh with chris and tear here. I think that would actually make those and sticks baby fine yeah. It would probably stick way too much to for him to use the fine teeth of the comb. Instead, when he was prepping the hair, he uh smoothed her hair out into just a touch of a very, very light, uh aerosol hairspray and i believe, that's giving him enough control without uh, without making it stick, even with that little bit in the hair that actually Still will make this baby fine, um highlighted hair, stick together, i'll show you guys that real, quick, so um, really subtle, subtle, a beta plug right. So i love air control because to me air control was dry. Shampoo before dry shampoo was a marketable product. It'S a granule-based hair spray, so i always tell my clients, if you're not looking for hold, but you want something to grit your hair up when it's too clean, hold your hand out, you can feel it it's very dry. It just gives a little bit of a granule kind of texture, so what i did with christens here was just a little bit of dry spraying through the internal shape right and then i'll actually comb through it with my white teeth. So i can distribute the granules and then it's a lot easier for me to work with, because i still plan on taking her very straight smooth hair, which i don't think she really loves. Having that much and putting some waves into it to just show what it looks like with the layers that we cut into the hair, when i'm done and the more wax you put in to assess the shape when you're cutting it the more limited you are from How you can finish it when it's dry, okay and we are getting people logging in from all over the world, uh people from the middle east from europe all over the place that i've been seeing uh. Thank you all for logging in we love. That'S the greatest thing about this hair braiding community is the fact that we can share our techniques on all sides of the globe, uh just instantaneously, and it's not. We don't have to get into a plane. We don't have to go to a uh to a seminar to share some education. Uh we've gotten a couple of people thanking you for the tips um one person asking: where are you located we're actually here in atlanta georgia, we're at van michael salons here in atlanta, georgia we're right now at our east cobb location, our east cobb location is one Of two locations that are closed on mondays, so those are the two locations that we typically do: our education out of um on mondays. So that's where we are here as well as people are coming in from texas and toronto. Multiple people from toronto, uh we've got all yeah, we've gotten a bit of a cold streak here for us, but i is nowhere near the amount of uh cold that you're getting there some people over in scotland. I just want to say hello to all of you and thank you very much for logging in once again i'm daniel holzberger, with van michael salons. This is my good friend sean and he's been an educator with us gosh now i've known sean since he seemed like he was a little kid and now he's a grown man and uh. You know now he's got little kids, so it's amazing to see him grow up and become such an amazing hairdresser. What he's been doing so far is for those of you, who've just logged in as he's been doing, pivoting sections with concave layers. But what he's been doing is he's been cutting a bit of an arcing, biased section throughout, so that he can actually create a little bit of volume on this extremely dense, yet fine hair, it's extremely long. He has not even touched the length whatsoever just took it from almost completely one length to creating a nice internal layer and he's been working. He worked. The left side first worked pivoting sections until he hit basically right at the top of the ear and then over directed everything back so that it would maintain some length through the front, because i know that he's going to come back through and re-cut that front. So, as you can see right like i'm, going to double check my internal guide, because if i create a concave guideline in the center okay and i pivot each subsequent section that is stemming out from my point of origin, i should have symmetry and balance from side To side, okay, so now, what's really easy to do when you're rounding through the head shape is to end up uh, either on your weak or dominant side, gaining too much length or losing too much length. And i talk about this a lot with my students and the easiest thing to do with that is to change your body position right. So, thankfully i have symmetry now. The nice thing about this haircut is, it doesn't have to be exact right. I want symmetry, but i don't want absolute perfection, because the whole point of only cutting with the interior uh of my shears is that i want to create a razor type technique right and not ever closing my shears away, i'm always pushing the hair so think about This right, when you're working with your shears, the tip of your blade, is the strongest part to cut with okay you're, always going to get the cleanest line. If you cut this way now, if you only cut with the internal area of your shear, you're, basically pushing the hair, which is why, when you're teaching people to cut a one length outline teaching them where they start cutting like this is really bad. Because they're going to have to constantly go through and re-cut, because every time they cut they're pushing the hair a little bit more every time right. So this i'm literally pushing the hair to create a softer razor type line. So real quickly put those scissors up again. Let me and open up so so i just want to show one thing. This is blunt right, so this is the tip of the sheer is where i would be cutting a precise line with zero push whatsoever, whereas this, what i'm actually doing again for me to show one thing also, so what i'm actually doing with my shear is: i'm Not opening or closing, all the way, i'm literally using the interior of my shear to actually push the hair and i'm just basically creating a little bit of a razor type technique that every time there is the smallest amount of hair that comes off like a razor Close your shears, let me show you something so also, if you look at this with the sheer see how this is thicker than this, what happens is you're cut you're much more convex here than you are here. Your blade is closer to 43 degrees of angle. From the tip forward, so that's going to be the closest thing to a razor blade to create an actual clean cut. So what ends up happening is when you do open and close that closer to the bolt. You'Ll actually have a tendency to push, because it's a little more convex. That'S why the large um dry, cutting scissors are actually more rounded than they are actually a straight line because they're designed for slice cutting. So, whenever you are doing whether you're doing it wet or dry, if you're doing any kind of a bias or a slice you're going to want to tend to stay on a little bit more of the fatter part of the shear. Now a couple of other questions, i'm just going to catch back up with was somebody asked. You know what was the dry product you used? He used a product by aveda called air control. It'S a very light, hairspray very low alcohol base. So what ends up happening? Is it almost works? I'M not quite exactly like dry shampoo, but it does give that little bit of grit that dry shampoo does, but it doesn't have real hard hold because of the lack of um alcohol. I don't use it to hold clients hair, usually what i do is i use it to dirty up very clean hair. That'S not behaving as well as it could be on the second day. That'S what i use it for very easy way. A couple people are asking. Yes, he was using pi sectioning. Basically, he started off uh to gain his length or to gain his outline. He took his length from the center back to the pivoting sections, elevated those straight up and then cut with a slicing concave. He got his guide by basically looking once the outline fell out. He then looked and said what kind of where do? I need to start my point to create the proper angle that he wanted, so he was able to start his guide by looking at where the outline was going to be, and then just shifting his fingers down almost like. So how you're watching him do this as well he's just eyeing from short to long at that point right exactly so and again remember with long hair the whole point of layering the hair is to create movement while having respect for where the outline sits, okay, which I'Ll show you exactly what dan was just explaining real quick. I chose my outline by allowing the length to dictate what my outline length should or where my internal layer should be right. So if i'm going to have my length sit this long, i can't quite take layers. This short. Can i because natural law of physics would say that, when i cut my line out to the the exterior of my shape right, i'm actually going to be cutting three inches off of my outline. Whereas if i were to pull to where my outline just begins to drop out, then wherever my outline drops out is the shortest point of my concave layering shape. Now, if you want shorter layers, that's when you can get into either disconnection or a different layering technique. Right, so something that we explain a lot within our within our education program is the importance of using images, rather than just describing what the client wants and what you're going to do, because our lingo is different than their lego right. They'Ll use words like choppy right. My favorite is when they say like. I really want a layer that sits here and then a layer that sits here right that doesn't mean anything or when they say. I really want choppy layers. You'Re like well. You'Ve got really fine hair. So then you show them images and if they show you images that are really short, but they have really long hair. That'S where concave layers might work if they show you hair. That is a lot longer with the layers, but maybe it's more texture on the bottom. That'S where, instead of you having a concave layer, maybe you're going to shift your angle to where more convex, where it's a flat plane, that's relative to the round of the head, where you actually take more weight out of the bottom outline while leaving the internal layers A little bit longer and then maybe you can break that up with a little bit of dry point cutting at the end. Okay, so you have to let your portfolio dictate what you're going to do and you have to be a professional hairdresser and actually describe and discuss it with your client so that you don't let a person who doesn't do hair completely control the nature of your conversation And i would say the longer you do, hair the better you get at uh, owning that side of your chair, but you do have to take control of the chair uh, because clients, i think, are a little bit too educated nowadays. So sometimes they tend to be a little bit more dominant with what they want and might not be the best thing for their hair. But i don't know how you feel about this daniel, but like um at this point in my career. I know that if someone comes to me for something that's really in bad taste and they come to me multiple times asking for something that's in bad taste, i'll. Just eventually explain to them i'll, do this and i'll make it look the best it possibly can look, but just know that it might not look the same as the picture on you yeah it's one of those things that goes back to educating your clients. You know. Luckily, for me i have been working for van michael for 22 years at this point, so i've got some clients. I have quite a few clients. I'Ve had for more than 20 years, so i can be extremely blunt with them, the ones that are still alive yeah. Well, you know, you know, that's that's how i check you know if i get no, should i check the obituary? Oh my god, so no, the um, but the truth of the matter is once you have had clients for a long time. You can be a little more blunt with them, but i still get new clients. I had two new clients in the last couple of days and you do need to be a little more guiding with them um. But at this point i also am at the point where i want to make sure that i'm educating them not just pushing them in a certain direction right and actually somebody's saying something about that right now, they're saying it's the the best thing uh to educate the Customer on what may be the best advice for their hair and what would be the best for them, i'm always straight with them, and i've had my salon and spa for 38 years geez that that is very commendable, because i have uh numbers, don't lie. Yeah. I'Ve been a salon owner for now for 12 years and um. I have to say it. It is not the easiest thing a lot of times. Hairdressers don't realize how hard it is to actually be a salon owner. Another person saying yes, they trust me when i speak even my new clients, because educating them is so important. Yeah i'll give you guys a real quick, uh, a story or tidbit a good friend of mine antoinette binder. She is the global creative director for aveda and has been with aveda for many years. She was one of my mentors when i was younger and she's still a mentor in life at this point with me, but she said something she said something on stage. One time we were doing a hair show in cincinnati, and she said that the three most important words that you could hear from a client are, i trust you and the thing that is amazing about that. Is it's so true as soon as they trust you. That'S. When the service is going to be so much easier, if they know where you're going with this, if they don't have any kind of apprehension about you doing their hair, they are going to enjoy this so much more, rather than in a situation where someone could be Like white knuckled underneath the cape and worried about every snip that you do, you really want to gain their trust and just like um, i'm sorry, you got to get the name. Pena said just a minute ago that educating them is very important, because you want to gain their trust, and i can't tell you how many times by the time, i'm done with my consultation, that a brand new client will use those words will say: do whatever you Want i trust you and you really do have them once you have those three words. It'S true uh. I i always it still. It still blows my mind when people say that, because i'm like well cool you know, i i mean it's. It'S yeah. It'S cool that people trust us with with their image. I mean because when you think about it right, your hair is the mantle that sits on top of the fireplace it's the first thing everyone looks at, so it is a big deal. Okay, so now we have a shape, that's really, naturally starting to happen so uh. Something that kristen did tell me was that she didn't want a lot of really short layers in the front right. She does have a natural concave shape going on. So what i'm going to do is i'm just going to really lightly slice through it to create a little bit of a pieciness with what's already happening and just give definition to the shape. That'S naturally there already right. So i don't want to like really aggressively pull through the hair, so what i'm doing is i'm using my index and my middle finger on my left hand to just grab the hair. That'S naturally, there already and just give it a little bit more of a pc definition to it, because it's already there, the hair already is, is laying this way, i'm just making it look like something, definite, okay. What i like about this, i know some people don't really like to do any kind of a frame in the hair, but the way i look at it, the hair is the most fine and brittle around the hairline, and if you don't do anything to it, it Doesn'T do anything so this i'm giving it a natural like a more established uh shape, okay, and i'm also doing so by if you'll notice, i'm not closing my shears all the way, creating a really definite aggressive line, i'm still going through with a razor type technique And just slicing through to give it a wispy airy flow to it. Okay, i think that's a really important thing to know how to do. You know a lot of times when people have fine hair. Obviously, the hair around the front hairline is drastically finer than the hair around the back hairline and then on top of that, it's usually had the most amount of you know: um damage done to it or uh that or just actually just you know, environmental damage to It from the sun from uh from blow drying from everything that you do to the hair plus any kind. Generally speaking, most women want their hair to be lighter around the front. So it's very easy for people to almost either leave hair alone around the front because they're afraid, if they cut anything, it's going to be gone or they go way too much and all of a sudden there's big gaps in the hair. But this little technique that you're doing is phenomenal to me, like he's just holding the the hair so gingerly, just using a little bit of tension just so that he can slice through and then create this really nice soft line. I mean that looks so much denser. Looking right so one side to the other, it's drastically different on how much healthier it looks on the right versus the left, but meanwhile it's it's still has that texture versus just a solid line that you created well right, so it has texture but also is still Respecting what she discussed during said, consultation, where she doesn't want a lot of aggressively short layers. These are still the same type of outline shape. That was already there. It just is more purposeful, okay. So then, again, you have to change your technique from side to side. Right, the same way that we would cut on this side right versus cutting this way on this side, we're able to go this way on this way or on the right side. What i have to do is i have to uh flip my cutting hand around. So i'm working in the opposite direction. Okay, so you and the other thing that i like to mention, also is, when you're doing any kind of slice cutting whether it is the way that he was cutting the bias up at the top or whether he's slice cutting here on the around the face. He'S cutting with the hair with the grain of the hair, absolutely he's cutting with the cuticle so that it doesn't blow that apart a lot of times, people will go against the cuticle. It makes an amazing look, but what ends up happening, especially if it's chemically treated hair, is it tends to blow that cuticle up? This is absolutely uh, something that is a must, in my opinion, if you're gon na do slice cutting always cut with the grain of the hair cut with the cuticle. Well, it's like anything right, like i mean again here, is a fabric, anything whether you're chopping through wood, whether you're slicing a piece of meat. You know i mean if you go against it really hard. You can hear it scraping because it's not it's not a natural cut right, whereas this one i'm just working through with the grain, because here, if you look at hair under a really fine microscope, it almost looks like a twig. You can see it's grain, okay and if you go against that grain you're going to blow it out and you do it all over the head, it's going to be really blown out and really just not flattering right. So now again, i'm working from the internal out to the outline of my shape. The reason why i'm doing this is because um i'm trying to just work out to the corner so where i don't end up working from my corner in and getting too short by the time i get to the inside of my shape. Okay, this is the shortest point that i don't want to take any shorter, so i'm working from there to the outline and the right side of her hair is a little bit more aggressively uh, let's say pre-concaved, probably just due to you know, being a little bit More chemically loved yeah, i was going to say, also you're right-handed as well correct, yeah, yeah yeah, so it sometimes has a tendency to get a little more blow-drying on that side as well, just because it's a little more aerodynamically correct. So now you can see sean's going through. Just the same way looks like we are getting tons of people from all over watching. I do believe you have a new best friend in our friend uh uh pena, that uh er pina that is uh been watching. You cut hair she's, been doing hair or owned a salon for 38 years, which is absolutely amazing, but she keeps giving you tons of compliments uh. This is really starting to come together. I mean really his internal shape at this point looks about perfect to me uh. I mean really it's one of those things that when you saw him start with this hair, it was almost completely one length except for just a little bit of face framing, and we have made a couple of jokes that we think that that face framing may have Been created by bleach, more than actual scissors, and although my friend mallory did an amazing job covering her hair, it's just the natural byproduct of what happens when you want money pieces, but you've just got a little bit of you know a little bit of a brittle Hair texture, that's it, and this is to me this is just where you try to also work in tandem with your colorist right like if someone has fine hair - and you know that a certain color is the end objective you're going to have to communicate about the Way it ends up being cut and the way it ends up being called at the end. Okay, so now all we're going to do now. This is the important thing right because now we're finished with our overall uh internal layering shape, so the hair is finest at the length that it possibly can be right. So important thing for me to discuss with people when you're cutting long hair and the outline okay a lot of times i'll, see my students working with these capes and they're all bunching up right, and so i can see them spending half the time trying to hold The hair so easy to do, pull the cape so that it's taut at the shoulder take a clip clip it flat surface to work on. It seems so simple right, so i'm going to raise her up so that it's a little bit more comfortable on my back, because i had it back in the other day and i'm pretty sore and i'm going to tilt her head down. Just the same that, i would in any one length technique right all the same principles apply okay and using a freehand, i'm literally just going to connect point a to point b, where the hair really starts to break up from the front outline going back to talking About those scissors, you can see he's cutting with probably the first third or maybe half of the blade, because that's where the blade is going to be the smallest. That'S where the blade's going to be the sharpest it's not going to push the hair. It'S going to cut the hair, that's right, and this doesn't come through on camera, nearly like it does in real life. The the quality of her hair has just jumped tenfold by taking that, whatever it was an inch off the bottom and just an inch yeah. Just an inch yeah and then throughout the hair it looks so nice and silky, whereas when i first, this was the first time that i met um when i met kristen when she walked in, i was like wow. Her hair she's got amazing, hair, but boy. It needs a haircut on the ends and now looking at it, it really is night and day different on how beautiful the hair is. Yeah i mean literally sometimes that's all you need. I mean if you look at the ground, it's not like there's a ton of hair. This is where i think hairdressers need to sometimes remember when they're cutting people's hair, that it doesn't have to look like a butcher shop on the ground. Every time someone comes in for a haircut right, they're paying for their time and they're they're, paying for your expertise, they're not paying to leave every single time feeling like they got the most dramatic haircut, which probably sounds a little bit ridiculous. Coming from me, because i've been told that i tend to be a little bit scissor-happy, but that also could be because my mentor rob this captain says you're happy now we i mean. I definitely think that it's important to make someone feel like they got a good haircut and um even as much hair, sometimes as my mentor would cut off of people's hair. I never saw them leave with anything, but the biggest smile on their face, feeling that their hair was amazing, and so all i've done is cut just what needs to be cut off of the hair and left everything else. Right and i'll. Tell you what a shout out to mallory the color does look unbelievable yeah absolutely, and it is now that these ends are cut off. I mean it is so it's such a beautiful, almost kind of beige color. It doesn't read quite as beigey on the camera as it is in real life, but i have to tell you the hair. It looks uh the best way to explain it right now the hair looks expensive, it doesn't look like it was just you know like she. Just ran into some beauty parlor and got some highlights, it looks like she has been had her hair cut and color done, uh very well and very professional. See i told you, you didn't look cheap, i told malory. I trust you and just do what you want to do. She said she said. I trust you did you hear that in your brain i see her next week to a different person, yes to mallory yeah. It was mallory's birthday this past. What was it uh? Actually, no no mallory's birthday is today. Oh well, happy birthday, the girl that colored kristen's hair, happy birthday and it's my eight-year-old's birthday today. Just so you saw that that's pretty amazing the cute hold on a second. We have to do this real quick on here, brian, because this kid is the cutest kid you've ever seen in your entire life, you're, not biased or anything. No, oh, so adorable, what's even what's even more cute is her big sister that we took a picture with. Is wearing her mom's, a leather jacket and one of our old metallica shirts, just owning it get out of here yeah, your oldest, is starting to look more and more like you, every minute, dude, it's insane, so she acts like me. That'S it like another question. Does this layering work on thicker hair, absolutely this hair? This will actually work on textured hair as well - maybe not extremely textured, but absolutely with the with any kind of wavy thick hair. Because what has happened is it's been cut on a concave, so the whole idea of a concave is it? Is it collapses hair it did because of the roundness of the head and because of the way that it was cut on a bias will create some volume in the crown, but it won't create a gap or it won't create any kind of a ledge. So yes, this can absolutely be cut on thick hair. It'S actually perfect for thick hair, it's perfect for wavy hair! Really it's just it the only time it's not good on hair is if it is extremely highly textured hair. If it's highly textured because of the distance and the proportions between the top and bottom, it may be just a little bit too aggressive, and you may end up with some separations of layerings. I tend to stay steer a little more towards like convex versus concave. When you start dealing with highly textured hair totally - and it's all i mean again - and also someone with really curly hair, this might not work as well for because with really curly hair you're all and that is by default, also highly textured hair. It doesn't matter if it's on concave caucasian or african-american whatever it is um, because the the more collapse an internal shape is and the more weight you remove in um in relation from the nape to the outline, the more the shape is going to separate internally right, Which is why a lot of times long square layers tend to work best for really curly hair because of the nature of curl right. So what i'm also going to do, because i want to show off - and this is something that, if i ever, if i ever dry - cut someone's hair a lot of times, what i'll do is i'll give them the option of having it. You know they can leave with it straight or they can leave with it curled, and in this case i want to show both looks right because they just sat there and looking in the mirror at what i'm doing with it straight. So now i'm going to show them what it can look like, curl too and um curls with long hair. It'S really important to remember that the whole point of it is to look disheveled and to look lived in right. So the number one technique that i try to show people is, first of all, to alternate right and left right to go back and forth. So my row below i did right the row above i'm going to go outward towards the left and i also tend to grab towards the roots twist it towards the roots and then pull downward with gravity so that the hair strand itself is a lot looser right. It'S just like a perm technique. If you do a horizontal curl, like so you're, going to have a much tighter curl right, almost like a surely a temple kind of curl right, whereas if i take that same exact strand of hair and spin, it diagonally downward, i'm going to loosen it up to Where it falls much more naturally and softly, okay, and in going through and curling right to left and alternating, as i work my way up, the head, i'm also doing a bricklay pattern which uh. If we all remember from hair school, bricklay perms tend to lay the most flatteringly, because you're staggering the point that each curl naturally falls at okay, do people still roll perms in here at school? They do. Okay, you know, what's bizarre, is that a lot of my students that have started with me in class over the last six months? Uh did not take clients because they were virtual and hair school. So that's something that's really interesting. I think we all because kobe kind of messed everything up for well everything - and we all have to remember that, like it's more important than ever, to take accountability for your education and your craft and if you are learning from home, get mannequin heads practice at home. If you're learning on a salon that has a training system like we do, then you know utilize your time to your to your advantage right, bring in models and work on mannequins like if all you ever do is watch a computer screen or watch a phone without Executing anything technically with your hands you're only going to get a small facet of education, okay, so hair is always most flattering when turned away from the face, so i'm still turning it away from the face from the cheekbone down, but i'm also keeping a much looser Curl and going diagonally downward with the floor, but then i'll come behind it and i'll do two curls towards the face, because i want the hair to all move loosely. Oh, we just got a shout out from uh one of my uh facebook, friends, uh sid satong sid is a awesome. Awesome educator out of london he's a former sassoon guy has his own academy in london. He actually focuses on mostly on barbering uh. He is one of those that is another one, that's just amazing to watch when you see his demonstrations, when you see his in-person classes, he does everything from color classes for men to uh, wet shaving. I mean everything across the board. So i, if you're ever looking to be in london and take a class on especially on men's stuff, definitely look him up, he's an amazing amazing educator and a great guy. We see him here on the hairbrained group all the time i love seeing him here. I'M also seeing people uh once again, all across the pond and a few people mentioning that they love doing perms. And, ironically i actually, i had a young man in my chair on friday. He just had a burn wow. He has a mullet too, or did he just have a problem? No, no! No! No! He had long shaggy hair uh. He actually had uh, went through a pretty extensive jaw, surgery and so hadn't. Had his hair cut for about six months had unbelievably thick straight hair and his sister told him that he should get a perm. He came in. Oh my god, we cut his hair and he ended up walking out. Looking like jon snow yeah, i was, i was actually one of the best firms i've seen in a very long time, but yeah i mean so i don't uh. I don't doubt that some texture is coming back in here. Look, it's like anything, and i always tell my clients is because for a while right um, you know we are teaching a abc type curriculum right like we're teaching the basics layering one length, graduation, squared triangular round. Those are the basics right and a lot of my students for the last couple of years haven't been particularly keen on really absorbing and retaining these basics, because what's trendy long, loose, wavy hair that has texture right so something that i always have to remind them of, Because i'm not that old, but at 36 be quiet, i'm not that old! At 36. I have seen trends right when i went into new talents in our protege program. 15 years ago, girls with pin straight hair had comb overs from all the way over here and wanted me to iron their hair straighter right. When i got into hair it was because every uh cute girl that i had a crush on that went out dancing to 80s dance nights had asymmetrical haircuts with rat tails. That was awesome, and you know when i started working for van michael and i started paying my way to go and do hair shows with them. I was, of course not on stage, but i was backstage. You know, pulling bobby pins out for daniel and sleeping on the floor of the lobby and stuff. But you know it was because we were doing cool asymmetrical, hard, geometric haircuts and those are starting to come back as well as weird things like mullets. I i had a teenage girl the other day that dressed like she was in the craft, but she basically wanted a meg ryan 90s shag. So it's important for people to not take anything off the table when you're learning in your training uh, because you never know what trends are going to come back around. I never in a million years thought that i would see gen cos come back and they're back. So jen cos can come back so can perms yeah, it's amazing! You! You mentioned that right. When covid started, i was actually taking a a class at men's fire in london, and what i noticed when i was in london walking around whether you're talking about in the heart of covett garden or out in camden town, is guys were wearing these really loose. Um straight cut jeans that were that reminded me of jenko's so much except for that they were short, oh yeah! That'S why i rise. They were high-rise jenkos i was like this is so so everything does come back around. So i do have to say that uh uh, exactly what you're saying jokes for guys that listen to corn and lembesit they're gen codes for guys that listen to travis scott jenkins, yeah jenkins, not jen, jenko jake, don't tell me, i wore them too coz. I think, though, that trend is a play on the 40s prisoner outfit. Oh okay, yeah it is lately it's like gauchos almost no, it definitely has that's where it comes from. Don'T knock karate pants until you try them listen. I got one kid who wears the taekwondo karate pants. You know seven days a week, all right, so it looks like we are finishing up here um. This is beautiful. I mean very, very salon friendly a lot more interesting way of creating those layers, especially when you start dealing with hair, that's extremely dense, but each strand being extremely fine and being chemically treated. Somebody had asked if you needed to treat chemically treated hair before starting this. It'S not a bad idea to use like a leave-in, conditioner um, some sort of something smooth when blow-drying the hair before you start well and still like you've got a hair that doesn't want to lighten up easily using olaplex or something like um. You know aveda's um, daily hair repair, uh, the botanical uh, you know stuff, i mean i think it's really important to like always treat the hair to feel good, because you don't want someone with really fine hair, that's blown out from bleach and you're going through and Scraping through with scissors so, but you know the important thing here, is it looked great when it was straight, it looks great when it's curly um. She still has all of her length really and but she actually has like some of these shorter pieces here which bounce up with his shoulders when diffused out a little bit more, and you know, i just think that it's important for people to focus on things that Are salon friendly because, like i said, like shags and mullets and shaving i mean that stuff's awesome and it's important to know but remember to you that you have to do things that clients want in the salon and a lot of my clients with long hair. Don'T want to chop it all off and they really want to feel like i'm listening to them with them, retaining their hair as much as possible. So i think that's what we did today so practice with all these types of techniques on mannequins. First, because you don't want to learn how to slice through hair in a razor technique on a live model right or you can just remember that it's important that they know that you're learning and uh have fun with it cool. So thank you. Everybody