Hair Transformations With Lauryn: Platinum Silver Underlights On Previously Colored Hair Ep. 47

Is what's up guys welcome back to my channel today, i'm going to be showing a hair transformation where this client is going to be getting some underlines. I know the underlights has been very popular lately, so i wanted to do another video showing my full application on this. This is her before and she has some previous color on her mids and ends there that you can see. That is that brown tone and everything at the root is pretty much virgin. We are chopping a lot a bit of her hair off first, so we'll be working with mostly virgin hair, so i've already pre-sectioned my client's hair and so i'm taking slices back-to-back starting at the nape here and i'm using my frimar foils. I use a foil cutter to customize the length of my foils for all of my clients. It makes it a lot easier if my client has a little bit of longer hair than the standard foil, and also guys these soils are really pretty. This is from their tie, dye collection, and it has like a nice soft texture to these foils as well to prevent them from slipping or even getting those like foil paper cuts um, and i really love them a lot again. You can find them on framar or like salon centric but yeah. So i'm using the pulp right, blondie, f, lightener. I started with 10 volt since we're going to be bumping all the way up to 30 volume, as i get towards the front, but i'm just taking very paper thin slices as you can see, and making sure that i'm fully saturating the hair, as i'm applying the Lightener, since we are trying to get somewhere somewhat a level 10 to get her under light as light as possible, it's really key to saturate the hair fully to get the maximum amount of lift. Also, i just want to talk about hair texture really quick. My client here she naturally is about a level three or four, and she has medium to coarse hair. It is thick kind of asian hair, so it is a little bit hard to lift. So that is why it is really important to take very paper thin sections, but blonde af does a really great job at lightening. Um nine levels of lift it just might take a bit longer than other lighteners, but honestly, the slower the better, because it keeps the integrity of the hair and makes sure that the hair is nice and healthy and soft. So, whenever i do under lights on my clients, through during the consultation, i will ask them where they want to see the color peeping through when they wear their hair down um and oftentimes. They just want to see peekaboos of it on the sides. So, by doing that, you kind of have to take the sections pretty far up the head. Otherwise it's really not visible at all. So i like to take this back part of this head and this part, since her hairs are going to be peeking through when she brings her hair forward right around her neck. I just make sure that i go enough up there and then i also do check where her layers lay. So she has a lot of layers. You don't have to take this section up too high, but if she doesn't have too many layers, you do have to add more color to the back section here, so that you can see it when she wears her hair down, even though i've lightened this client before. Whenever a client comes in asking for any type of platinum or silver tone, i always let them know that in the case that their hair doesn't lighten to a nice clean level, nine and ten, i do talk about other options of different tones. They could possibly get just in case if their hair doesn't lighten and the reason why i bring that up is because sometimes you don't know if they've put different products on their hair in between the last time that you've seen them. That might interfere with the color. Sometimes, if they use like bad shampoos or anything and create build up on the hair, even from like their water at home, there can be mineral buildup on the hair and it can interfere with lightening um the hair and getting to a nice level. Nine and ten because the lightener technically has to eat through whatever is on their hair before it can start lightening it. So it's good to talk about different color variations and colors that they might be getting that day. Just in case that their hair doesn't get light enough. And i always like to under promise and over deliver. And that is the key to making your clients happy and talking about all of their options and doing a very thorough consultation. So whenever i do any type of underlight on any of my clients, i always tell them that we probably won't touch it all the way to the root just to save some time and to save them money. Because if i were to go back in and hit the route, it takes up like an extra hour or just it takes up more time and essentially is not necessary. If they're not planning to come back in within four to six weeks to get it retouched up. Because it's gon na grow out anyways with that being said, i would say, underlines - can be a little bit on the lower maintenance side, because when the roots do grow out, you don't see them too much. If you wear your hair down, because it's all underneath. So i mean i never tell my clients they need to come in sooner to get the rich touch up. I just tell them it's really up to them and when their roots start to bug them um, because it is the on the underneath and if they like it, a little bit more rooty and they don't mind it growing out. It'S totally fine. But if i were to do a touch up on this color, i would probably do the exact same thing where i would highlight doing slices back to back and just hitting the root of whatever. I did previously also notice. How, when i place my foils, i just place them right. On top, i don't like to fold the hair, that's in the foil, because when you do that you can create some warm spots and that creates an uneven lift so to try and get the most perfect. Even lift as possible, it's best to just leave the hair laying flat on the foil without folding it and, as i apply the lightener too, i do kind of brush up as i get towards the root. So i can try to prevent any type of super harsh line. It kind of just softens that line of demarcation, just a teeny bit um, so that when it grows out it doesn't look so harsh of a line, and here i do start at the hairline. I'Ve already done the other side there, so i'm going here, um and matching. However, far up, i went on the other side and again just taking very thin sections like enough to where you can see through the hair, just to get that even lift, especially here around the face and in the front, because this is where they're going to see. Most of the color, so you really want to make sure that these parts of the hair are for sure, fully saturated and the lightest and then quickly going back to where i place the color as far as where they want to see the peekaboos. So for here on my client, when she wears her hair down, you can see at the corners of her hairline right around her temples. It kind of um is a corner there. So i do go a little bit above that corner, because you'll see that the hair is there when she wears her hair down, they do peek through, and i want her to see um the blonde when she brings her hair forward. Also, by going further up here, like above the brow um with the under light, compared to the back section when she pulls her hair and puts it behind her ear, she will also see peekaboos of the blonde, which is really cute, and most girls like throughout the Day we all put our hair behind our ears, so it's a really great placement to make sure that your client gets enough color, even when they put their hair down behind their ear. All these little things you got to take into consideration so that your client gets the most out of their color and you do the correct placement for what they're going for so for this color application, i would say, depending on the density of their hair and how Far up or how much under light they want, i would say this probably takes me anywhere from like an hour to an hour and a half to foil, even though it doesn't really seem like a lot of color, since you are taking very thin sections back to Back and making it solid, it does end up being a lot more work and does take up a lot of product because you got ta fully saturate and make sure that you're taking those really thin sections so that your client can get as light as possible. When i first did this, i didn't think it was going to take as long as it did, because it really honestly didn't seem like too much color, but once you go in there and you've done it a few times you start to realize, like oh my god. This is a lot more work than i um thought and what you can see in the picture, because it's like all hidden but yeah. Just if you've never tried this. I would just anticipate that it is a little bit more work than um. What you see, because you got ta, take in consideration that the hole underneath is completely solid. So this is what it looked like when i was completely done foiling her, you can see. I went a little bit higher up in the front and then a little lower back in the back, just because i didn't really have to and she's gon na see more color. So in the front. So i'm gon na go ahead and check that first foil that i have already placed, and you can already see that she's lifting beautifully it doesn't look like. I have any unevenness and honestly all of that saturation will pay off in the end. So this is what it looked like when some of her foils were ready to be um washed out. I do pull them out and then i kind of emulsify them all together and kind of marry all the ends, so that i can make sure that everything is fully saturated. But look at how clean this lift is guys if you put in the work when you're foiling. You will thank yourself later because you won't have to re-lighten, but this is what her hair looked like with no toner. I did purple shampoo her with some barcelona and you can see at the root it's a little bit lighter than her ends and that's because she had that previous color on her ends. But we are going to be toning with the pulp right, rapid toners. So a little quick tip about the rapid toners guys you can really customize what shade you're going for so for her. I mixed up silver and violet, and i've been getting a lot of comments when i do mention silver and violet toners that they're too dark. Yes, if you use them and mix them one to one and use them to the full processing time they can get pretty deep. But the way that i mixed hers is. I asked my client if she wanted to see more silver or more violet and then it kind of changes, the ratio. So i believe i mixed her formula um. I did probably two part silver to one part violet and then for mixing it with developer. I did um one part color to three parts developer and i mixed that with six volume and what that does is dilute the color and makes it work a little bit slower. So i applied the color at the root first to kind of create like a slight shadow root, and then i apply on the mids and ends there just to create like a soft melt and graduation in the color. But i do watch it and make sure that everything is fully saturated and i like to brush brush through and just apply the color until i feel like it's fully saturated and then i took my client back to my chair. I prepped her hair with the copenhagen leave-in conditioner from pulp riot, and i added some munich hair serum, which is their heat, protectant and cocktailed it both together before i blow dried and look guys. Look how beautiful this silver tone is. Yes, there is some warmth there because of her previous color, but overall, it's like a pretty nice, solid silver toned blonde and what i would recommend her to do when she is home taking care of it is to wash her hair, maybe like once a week if She can and use purple shampoo, especially on the blonde parts she doesn't have to use. Purple shampoo, where her virgin roots are where her natural dark is, but where the blonde is, i would highly recommend using a purple shampoo and even leaving it in the hair for, like maybe a few minutes, to help tone and keep that gray tone in well. I hope this video was a little bit more helpful, as i showed my color application a little bit more in detail, if you guys have any other questions or anything um or problems that you come across when doing under lights, feel free to dm me or comment Down below - and i will help you guys as much as i can as always. Thank you guys so much for watching and tuning in to this week's video, and i will talk to you guys next week you