The Perfect Money Piece With @Mirella Manelli | Kenra Professional

Hey it's merle minnelli here and today i'm going to show you how to create the perfect money piece. So whether you want to create something really bold or really subtle or something in between this is going to be the perfect technique for you and i'm using all camera color. So let's go ahead and get started so to get started on our bold money piece sectioning. I want to kind of see where the hair naturally falls, and typically i am going to use a center part here. So, even if she wears her hair on the side, you kind of want to use that as a guide, but we're going to just use a center part. So that way, if she wants to wear it, either way or right down the center, this will work perfect for that. So one of the things that i like to do is to once i have it parted down. The center is to cinch the hair, to kind of see where it naturally wants to part on the sides. So what i normally do is i comb the hair down and then just push the hair up and you can kind of see like where it naturally wants to kind of part. So this is going to give me like a nice little guide and then from here i can go ahead and start detailing it up. So now that i have this completely sectioned out, you can see about how far back this money piece went, but we're going for something really bold here. So this is why you want to kind of see where the hair naturally wants to fall, and then, once you split this in half, you can get a nice visual for about how much hair is going to be blonde or where that money piece is about to Live so if you want to take a little less, you can kind of go from there. So for this project, i'm going to be using counter professional blue powder lightener and then i'm just going to mix this up at a one to two mixing ratio. So i just like that consistency for my highlights, but you can do one to three. If you want your lightener just a little bit more of a thinner viscosity now that we're all mixed up, i do want to point out that if you want the maximum amount of contrast, you're just going to go ahead and put in your money piece and that's It but i want to soften this, look up just a little bit, so i am going to add in a couple highlights right here throughout the hairline, so i'm going to go ahead and do that first, so you're just going to brush the hair completely back and Then you're just going to weave out this hairline and on a real person, it's much easier, you're going to clip this hair away. So this just gives you a little bit extra control when doing these hairline type highlights. So i'm just gon na add in my foil now it's completely up to you like how close you get up into the hairline. Some people, like it a little rooted but most of my clientele likes their highlights all the way up and you can always go in and do a little shadow root or something like that. I'M just going to add in these highlights right here making sure to overlap and not swirl. So that way i get the best saturation possible and i am a tri-folder. So if you watch any of my videos, you know i love tri-folding and then i'm just going to add in one more right on through this side, and this again is just going to give me a little bit of added softness throughout this side. So you could do two back to back if you want it with no hair in between the foils. If you want something super bold on the side, but typically what i do is i take out a small section here and i leave a little bit of hair in between, because i want that softened effect. I'M just going to baby like that and i'm going to do the same exact thing to the other side. So now that i got my two side sections going on and again this is just to add that little bit of softness. So that way, when this bold money piece falls, we just have a little bit of added blonde coming down through the hairline when she wears her hair down. But if you want maximum contrast, you don't even need to add these in here. So, in order to start this money piece, what i'm going to do is pull all of this hair back, i'm actually going to do the same thing that i did to that hairline, which is weave out towards me, those baby lights. Now one of the things i love about this technique is that i don't really have to worry so much about bleeding or anything like that, because this very first hairline that you're doing there's no hair behind it. So that's what makes it getting started right here or in that type of way is great, so i usually apply my lightener just a few inches away from the root area, and then i start to move it up by pushing my brush a little sideways. This is like my favorite way to get as close as possible to the root, but without it going or over saturating right onto that hairline. Now, for this next section, i'm going to do the same exact thing: i'm going to brush all of this hair up and back and still bring this forward. So there's not going to be any hair in between these foils now. The whole reason why, in case you're wondering about why i'm doing back-to-back baby lights, with no hair in between you're, probably thinking like well, isn't that just going to make like one big slice, and the answer is yes, and no it's going to give you that really Bold piece like a sliced wood, but since we're weaving these what's happening is we're changing the direction of where that lightener is placed right at the root. So it's going to give you kind of like a little bit of that grown out, jaggedy effect, which is exactly what we're going for as an end result. Whereas a slice is going to give you a really harsh line and when it comes to many pieces, it's all about that customization and making it look just a little bit more different than you know the hairstylist next door to you can offer. So i'm going to do one more back to back a little baby light and then we'll start changing this up just a little bit so for this next section. Now that we got those three back to backs with no hair in between, you can actually continue on with this. If you really wanted something super bold, but i'm gon na start softening this section up, because this is where it starts to get really really thick. So what i'm going to do is take a really small slice and i'm going to weave that, so what this is doing is starting to incorporate that natural hair or whatever hair she has in between. So that way, it's not just all solid right here. So i'm going to take this and i'm going to weave right down here so now we're going to incorporate some of these brunette hairs throughout. But you see it's still pretty soft and subtle. Another thing that i'm going to do a little differently than i did with those front pieces is i'm going to change how i do my application, so i don't want to take it all the way to the root. So again, that's part of your customization. If you want to take it all the way to the root you can, but what i'm going to do is apply this lightener here and in order to soften this line. I'M just going to do some quick stroke motions up to bring that lightener up just a little bit, but without taking it all the way up. So that's just going to diffuse the line, so i don't have a harsh line from my lightener. So i'm just going to do a couple more of these until i have a really tiny triangle left on the very very top i'm just going to do one more and then i'm going to show you how i finish this little top piece off now, really quick Tip, if you want your foil to get really nice and snug to the root area, is instead of holding the hair out like this and then shoving it in this way, you'll get a little bit of a bevel on the very very top. So what i like to do is hold the hair completely straight up, insert my foil and then bring that down. You'Ll, get it much much closer to the root. Okay. So now that i got my three back-to-back baby lights and then i have three back-to-backs, but with a little bit of hair in between each of these, you can see how it's starting to soften. Now, what i'm going to do with this very very last little piece of hair here and it's kind of shaped into a little bit of a triangle. So what i'm going to do is actually finish it off with the teezy light. So this is going to give me the maximum amount of softness and also give me a little bit of rootage going on. So it doesn't look like a triangle there. That'S the last thing we want it to look like, but we still want to incorporate this hair. So you're just going to tease it down all the way hold this up and now we're going to get a really nice effect. From this very last section and same thing, i like to apply just a few inches away and then do a few strokes up into the top part. So that way it diffuses that line. So we don't get a harsh line from applying the lightener straight on like this. Now that we're all done putting in her foils i'm just going to let her process and just periodically check her foils, i'm going to check him about 15 minutes. But i have a feeling for how light i want to get her. Ideally, i would love to get her to a nice level. 9. 10.. I'M going to probably take these down in about 30 minutes or so, and then we're gon na get ready to do her final toner. So it's been about 30 minutes and i went ahead and shampooed and conditioned her hair out and you can see we got a nice pop of blonde going on here in the front. But what i love about this technique is, you can truly customize it. So if you want more pop of blonde something, a little bit more contrasty and bolder you're just going to put in more of those back-to-back highlights, but you can really see how it transitions from that really strong blonde into the brown towards the back, which makes this Really the perfect technique that you can truly truly customize and then, furthermore, we got these nice little highlights throughout the sides here. So she does pull her hair back. We'Re going to see some pop of blonde going through the side which will marry and blend into that. Bold money piece that we created on the top so now we're going to get ready to do her final toner and i'm actually liking the level that it lifted to. So i think i'm going to go in with 10n in demi permanent, so i'm actually going to mix up my demi permanent at a one to two mixing ratio, which is what i love to use for general toning. So i'm going to mix up my one part of my color and then do two parts of my nine volume developer. Now i chose 10n again because i really love the way the color lifted. So i'm just looking for a nice, sheer control and to go ahead and polish up those ends from that freshly bleached hair. So for this toner application, i'm just going to actually apply it from roots to ends. So pretty simple, because we're just really focused on this hairline here and i'm also going to apply it to the natural brown hair and i'm not concerned whatsoever of it color shifting at all, because this is deposit only so it's not going to affect any of the Hair that hasn't been lightened and then once i get this toner on completely on the hairline, i'm just going to process it for about 15 minutes or until i, like the tone that i see and another thing that i love about the demi permanent hair color. Is that i don't feel any anxiety as it's processing and freaking out if it's over depositing, but a good general rule of thumb is once you see the color that you like visually with the toner on the hair, i always say: wait an additional three to five Minutes before completely removing the color off and then usually i finish this off by doing a really good rinse and then a nice good conditioner to seal it off and here's the final result of our perfect money piece using all kenra color. So, just to give you a little recap: we went in with a triangular section towards the top and then on the sides we just added two back-to-back baby lights and through that interior we added those more back-to-back baby lights, with some tz lights, using blue powder lightener. At a one to two mixing ratio with 20 volume developer and we processed for 30 minutes and then for her final glaze. We went in with demi permanent at a one to two mixing ratio, with nine volume, developer and 10 n and then just processed for 15 minutes and then for her final style. I went in with lux shine. Oil from the kendra platinum collection on damp hair gave her a nice blowout and then gave her some really beautiful, luscious curls and i'm loving that luck shine oil because it gave her that thermal protection we need along with that shine. So i really hoped you enjoyed this hair tutorial and if you did give this video a thumbs up, make sure to subscribe and make sure to check out my other hair tutorials on this channel and i hope to see you guys next time.