Full Highlight Tutorial | New Techniques!

Okay, so we're gon na start this. I see blonde hair tutorial by parting her off. I always like to go off of my clients, natural part, so it's really good to ask them where they part their hair, wear their hair Lee's naturally, and go off of that. If they are at Osler and they can go either, which way then I always go off of the middle so that no matter where they part their hair. It'S going to look amazing, and today we have mixed up joy, cool blonde life with 20 volume, and we added one sixteenth ounce of olaplex for a little bit of protection. This is going to ensure that we get really good lift with her hair, but also keep it really safe, as we do it, and this client specifically haven't had her hair done since March, so she does have quite a bit of regrowth. Our goal is to get her as blonde as we can give her a nice platinum, icy, blonde tone. She really likes the cool tone. So that's what we're going for today, but you can see that since she has quite a bit of regrowth, she does have a lot of contrast in her hair at the moment and her ends are faded out tomorrow, like a yellow, toned blonde. So we're really gon na try to knock through that today and I think a lot of people get really intimidated by overlapping and they get scared that you're not supposed to or that you're gon na fry your clients, hair off and trust me you can it's done. The wrong way, but in today's video, we're gon na be teaching you how to safely get your client to that icy blond color. So for this specific video we're going to be doing a full highlight pattern and I like to vary my patterns based off of the result. I want so since we're wanting to do something. That'S pretty bright, I'm going to be giving her maximum brightness maximum blinding and we're gon na start at the nape of the neck and work our way up. So I'm starting by doing a baby light right here at the nape and I'm going to be taking it down. As far as I need to mainly focusing on that regrowth and then feathering through the golden ends to kick them out a little bit, the tools I'm using right now are, of course, frame our foils, I'm also using my jay-z Styles long blonde and comb. We do offer two different comb sizes for highlighting I like using the longer one for baby lights, because I do feel like I have a little more control with it and then our shorter version I like to use for TV lights up until about mid ear. The head has been narrow enough, where I can focus them all in the center. But if I continued in that pattern, then we wouldn't get any of the sides. So now I'm gon na start transitioning to the sides and all I'm doing is doing a straight line and it's almost going to be bricklaying with the pattern. I was doing down the middle and since you already have a bunch of foils in there, they usually work. Really well as a base to support these foils as well. I'M gon na start by doing about two or three foils up here on this side and then I'm going to transition over to the other side. Now that I've gone up each side with about two or three foils, I'm heading back to the middle, and now my pattern is going to be two or three foils in the middle two or three foils on the left and then two or three foils on the Right - and this is going to give me a good pattern that accentuates brightness but also covers everything so when she pulls her hair up she's going to be bright all over, she does have a pretty dark base. Naturally, I would say she's about a level five and her regrowth does show pretty quickly. So, even though we are doing an icy blonde, I still want this to be low maintenance for her. It'S not like we're going in and painting Lightner straight on the scalp. We'Re doing baby lights because we do want it to look natural but still really bright and cool. So I know a lot of times. It can be intimidating to overlap blonde on to previously lightened hair and there's definitely a time and a place for it. But there is no other option to get lighter than to overlap, so you just have to make sure that you're doing it safely. For example, we did add olaplex in this whitener. That'S going to help protect the hair as we lip keep it really healthy and strong, and while it may dilute your processing time, it's always worth it in the end, I also used a lower developer. I never go over 20 volume when I'm overlapping, because that is just asking for trouble. 30 or 40 volume is going to blow open that cuticle, whereas 20 lifts pretty evenly and stays at that level, and since she already is why I don't need anything more than that on those light ends, and then, if I do let it process long enough. It'S also gon na lift her regrowth to where I want it to be as well, and especially since that is virgin hair. It'S going to lift beautifully with a 20 volume when it comes to blogging. There are a lot of different stitch patterns. You can use I'm a big fan of baby lights, just because I think they do look the most natural, since we are wanting her to look pretty solidly blonde baby lights are going to be our best bet, because they're going to look like they literally grew from Her head that way, but if we were wanting a more defined blonde with texture and dimension, you could do a bigger stitch pattern and do chunkier highlights in a sense not necessarily chunky in the sense that you're picking up more hair, but just the space you leave In between the baby lights, that's going to give you more dimension where I was right here, I'm doing a really fine baby light, so it almost looks like a slice and that's going to give us a more solid appearance. It'S important to let clients understand that, depending on their hair type, it may take a few sessions to achieve the icy blonde, since she is blonde with just some regrowth, it is going to be pretty easy within a session or two, but at the same time, depending On how the hair lifts their texture, their density in their natural level, it could take more than that. So just make sure you prepare your clients for that, because this icy cool blonde is considered an unnatural tone and it's kind of a fashion color in a sense, because you have to use toners to get what you're wanting you can't lift hair out to icy blonde. It lifts out to pale yellow and then you have to custom tone it to achieve that result. So because of that, it kind of becomes a color correction with some hair types, and even though she has natural regrowth right here and faded blonde ends the more regrowth they have the more challenging it can be because if that regrowth extends down and almost looks like An ombre, you're gon na have more to work against and that could take a few more sessions. I always like to start in the back of the head first, because if it does process quicker, you can remove the back files, put them in an olaplex treatment and let it sit while the front continues to process, and this makes it a little bit easier. So you don't have to use a squirt bottle to squirt foils out it's just easier to dunk um back into the sink and then also keep in mind that we may bump up our developer as we work our way up the top of the head, depending on How quick of a foiler you are? You can start with a ten or a twenty and move your way up to 30. Since I started with a 20, I think I'm gon na stick with it and then just rinse the back when it's done, because I don't want to put anything higher than 20 on her ends. Even though we don't have a middle section anymore, I'm still gon na vary by doing two or three on this side and then jumping over and doing two or three on the other side. Because if you get too heavy on one side, it's gon na be harder to maneuver and work on the other side, because the foils could be in the way. Now that I'm in the triangular section, I'm starting at the base. Doing a highlight right here in the center and then I'm going to be working my way up that triangle, as I reach this triangular section, I'm starting at the base and just working my way up. This section is really great for your clients that have stubborn calyx or for hair that splits in the back. This is going to be your chance to really pack those foils in and give them a blond appearance towards the top of the head. Okay, so we're now heading into the front sections of the hair. This is a really important area for the most blonde clients, because this is really where they see the most brightness when they look in the mirror and when they pull their hair back. They want to be able to really see that blonde. So we're going to be doing a really focused hairline. So, as you can see right here, I have a slice sectioned off and I'm going to take my foil hold the hair out with tight elevation and put my foil underneath holding it tight the whole time and then we're going to paint this whole section and you'll Notice that I now transferred to a smaller brush, I was using the larger goldwell brush for most of the foils and now that I'm doing hair line I'm doing the smaller gold bail brush. I love the blend that these brushes give and the small ones really good for hair line details because I can get in closer without having my product bleed, and it gives me a really accurate idea of where my products going. I'M just going to be doing a few slices brick laid reaching over to the top of the head. Okay, now that I've done a few slices here in the front, I'm transitioning more towards the top of her being area still doing slices for maximum brightness, and if you notice, I am using a different foil color for these pieces. Specifically, these pieces are going to process a bit quicker, even though I did them after these only because the hair up here is so fragile and since it is her bang area, I want to make sure that we keep these pieces healthy. Okay. So now that I'm done doing all of the slices in front I'm going to fold the foils over and now we're gon na start transitioning into baby lights. I did a lot of slices here because I do want her to be pretty bright, but if your client wanted a more natural-looking front, you could just do highlights and not do slices or you could just do a few slices and then transition into baby lights. A little bit sooner, I'm a big fan of working on an angle, especially when it comes to the front of the head because, as we all know, the head shape is round and you really want to follow the curvature of the head so that all of the Hairs lay really naturally, sometimes if you just go straight up the side, it ends up looking stripy and it doesn't look as good as it could. If you did it this way, when it comes to baby lights, I have a few tips and tricks that have really helped me perfect them in hair school. I feel like we learned to traditionally highlight one way and then baby lights became a trend and it kind of changed the game. There'S nothing wrong with doing a thicker highlight or a traditional highlight, but beauty lights have become so popular because it gives our clients that really natural look and also give them longevity when paired with their roots. Mudge baby light is such a funny term because it is something that's trending right now, but it really just means a fine highlight and I'm a fan just because I feel like finer sections tend to lift easier. The chunkier highlights tend to lift a little bit warmer and they take longer to process and also like we had talked about before. They just blend a lot better and it gives your client a really natural look, even if you're doing a color like this one when it comes to mixing ratios for Lightner, I always like to start with about a scoop or a scoop and a half. I never like to go over that just because Lightner can swell the more that you mix up, especially if you're using a higher volume developer. So I always start off with one scoop and work my way up from there. This piece between the front and the back sections can be kind of tricky if you're doing a more dimensional look. You could easily leave this out to give more depth right here, but since we are doing a brighter blonde, I'm going to go ahead and foil that so that I can have maximum brightness in this section. Saturation is key when it comes to sections like this around the face. You want to make sure you saturate really well, so we're gon na start by saturating down here, moving our way to the top, and then I always like to maneuver my foil. For example, I'm tilting my foil to the right to get this section and then I'm going to tilt it the opposite direction to get the left section, and you can see that I'm also going in and feathering to kind of help soften the line. This is totally fine to do as long as you saturate. First, if you start with feathering, then it may be a little bit warm because it isn't saturated enough, so you want to make sure you saturate first and then feather second you'll notice, that a lot of clients tend to have baby hairs around the hairline like this. That can be due to stress hormones having a baby medications. Anything like that, and you want to naturally go in and grab these and make them light, which is ok but sometimes enhancing. Those darker hairs can actually make them stand out a little bit more. It'S kind of like, if you think about when you contour and highlight your face, if you contour, it makes it recede and if you highlight it stands out. So if the baby hairs are really really delicate, highlighting them with Lightner may make them more obvious. So use your judgement depending on your clients, hairline and decide if it's best to leave them out or include them in the foil. Okay. So now that she is all in foils, I'm going to be mixing up a shampoo cocktail and we're going to be saturating. All of her ends with this. The reason we're doing this is because you can see that her ends are a little bit of faded gold and since I'm trying to eliminate as much dimension as possible, this is going to help kick out those gold ends without incubating them in a foil. So it will be more gentle on her hair, but it's also going to help lift it out a little bit. You do have to be careful when doing this, because it can look splotchy if you don't blend it. The right way, especially because you're going up into the dark areas, we really are just using this to puff it out. It'S not going to be an exact science you're, just going to be basically covering everything. That'S dropped out in this shampoo wash and you could do this at the bowl as well, but I do want it to sit on a little bit longer, so I'm going to be doing it while she's in foils okay. So we are now ready to go tap and tone her at the bowl. So I'm going to be mixing up her tap, which is going to be shade, the cute gloss 6n and I'm going to do mostly 6n, I'm doing 12 grams of that and then I'm going to add a little bit of 6 na I'm gon na do about 3 grams, taking it to about 15 grams total and then I'm gon na even that out equal parts, taking it up to 30 grams with the processing solution. The reason I'm choosing to do this is because, no matter what I'm doing on my client, whether it's a tap a shadow or a smudge, I always use their natural colors. So we have a really nice grill out with no warm tones coming through. The 6n is really the tone I'm looking for, and the 6na is going to help counteract any warmth we achieved, while lifting for the toner we're also going to be using shades of cue glass again, they finally have their level tends out, which I am so excited About so we're going to be doing half an ounce of the 10 VV half an ounce of 9 P, a dash of 9 V and a dash of 10 n. The reason I'm doing 10 n is because I don't want it to go too purple, but I do have enough V and P in there for it to get as ashy and cool as I would like it to and we're going to even that out equal parts. As well so we're taking that up to 3 ounces total. So with my clients that, like to stay really blonde to the route, I still go in and do a little bit of toner at the base. The reason being is because I think that doing this makes the color look a little more expensive, it blends better and they have lower maintenance but they're, not necessarily going to know. I did this. It'S just gon na help it blend and look a little bit softer. So we're going to use a technique called a root tap right here, I'm taking my brush and I'm just tapping. So as you can see, I'm not extending my brush down and painting on I'm just barely tapping to diffuse the line and I'm going around the perimeter. I parted her hair off of her natural part and then on the center in the back, and I always like to do the perimeter first and then I go work on the inside of the hair. Okay. So now that that's been applied, I'm gon na come back to the front section and I'm going to tap everything that we sliced, and this is up to you. If you want them to have a heavier hairline or a bigger many piece. You could just leave these pieces alone, but I personally feel like it looks best to at least tap them a little bit, because it helps it blend better, and this isn't going to sit very long. It'S just going to help diffuse it so that it blends really well with the rest of the baby lights. Okay, so that route has been sitting for a few minutes and we're now going to be applying the shade DQ gloss to the ends. This stuff usually works. Pretty quick so when working with shades make sure you watch it, I always say: there's no real rule of thumb with how long you should keep these toners on. You just need to watch it and see what the hair is doing with the root tap. I always say: root taps really only need to be on like three to five minutes, because it's not anything too dramatic with smudges and shadows. You do leave those on a little bit longer and then the toner. It really is just playing it by ear and seeing how the hair is taking it.