How To Balayage Dark, Long, And Thick Hair - Foilayage Hair Technique (New Method!)

What'S up welcome to my youtube channel in today's video we're going to be doing my signature wash technique with a twist, so stay tuned, alright, guys! Welcome to this video. I am so excited to be sharing with you guys this new twist to my signature, foliage technique. So my model today has about a level 5 hair and she's got some brightness already on her end, so we're gon na be refreshing. Her hair brightening her up, adding a stronger, muddy piece in the front, and I'm going to be sharing with you guys, a new secret sauce that I found for my blending agent and it's not lightweight conditioner, so stay tuned to find out exactly what it is. Alright. So this is our starting canvas. You guys can see. She'S got definitely some whiteness and there's some good dimension already, but she definitely still has a lot of depth, especially through this back section here. So we're gon na be brightening her up bringing all of this up. It'S been six months since she's gotten her hair color done so we're gon na be brightener up, giving her a lot more brightness breaking through kind of this dark whole area and just really getting there. Some really fun beautiful color for summer, and one last thing that I want to make mention is: she definitely has a lot of depth underneath her hair, like I showed you, so you guys can see author here that sometimes a client might not feel super blond, because They'Re kind of dark through here so we're gon na show you guys how to brighten up this area, give it lots of lots of depth and make sure that this area doesn't feel too dark to your clients. Alright, so I am going to be mixing up her Lightner and I actually love using this double-sided Bowl, because it allows me to do two formulas, so I'm actually going to be doing just a 10 volume with olaplex just for those the lighter ends. I just want to brighten them up a little bit, but not too much, and then I'm also going to be doing a 30 volume to start with we'll probably bump it up to 35 for some of those darker pieces, but that will start with 30. So I'm just gon na mix that up here and of course, I'm always gon na put in some olaplex and then I'm going to show you guys something fun and new that I'm gon na try all right. So previously. In the past, I have used a lightweight conditioner for my blending agent, but we're actually going to be using the biology, color Kerr, aesthetic, milk, rinse, and so I'm going to put this into a bowl here, just kind of squirt a decent amount in there. And this is going to be used as my blending agent for our coils, I'm going to show you guys a really fun technique with using this, but I am really excited to show it to you all right. So I'm gon na section your hair to start just the front from the back. So I'm just literally going to take a section just right behind your ear here and I don't do super crazy sectioning and I just barely kind of clip it out of the way. So we're just going to clip that away and we're gon na start here in the back section and what I showed you guys. She'S got a lot of depth underneath here so when she wears her hair up, there's so much darkness and a lot of times clients when they pull their hair forward. They want to see this brightness in here, so we definitely are gon na want to brighten this up. So when she wears her hair back, she gets that nice, beautiful balayage, look so we're gon na start here. She'S got a really nice square of hair light. So I'm not gon na do a diagonal back section just like this and we're gon na start right there. So let me just clip this away all right! We'Re gon na take our section right here and I'm going to weave it out and all I'm gon na. Do is I'm going to end up believing this piece out, because I want this to be our natural low light. If I took the entire section and did it, what would happen is you'd have a really blonde chunk right there. So we don't want that. So I'm going to tease this section right here, just ever so slightly and I like to start my teasing kind of just mid-shaft up and we're going to do that right there and then I'm going to take my foil right here, and this is where it that Blending agent comes in so I'm taking my blending agent just right here and applying it right below. Where I did my teasing, so you guys can see the teasing's there. We got the blending agent and then I'm gon na go in with my 30 volume, because this is the much darker section here and start just applying it through the length of her hair. Now you wan na make sure that you're really saturating this hair. Getting it fully fully in there and then I'm just going to go through and just kind of blend this up into that blending agent, that we did so just kind of slightly feather up in there. One thing you do want to make sure that you're not going all the way up into the teasing area, because then that could cause bleed much. So I'm just kind of going right where that blending agent is and then all I'm going to do, is I'm going to take another coil place it right on top and then that is going to incubate this entire section fold this up and then walk it down Into place now I'm going to go to my next section, so you guys can see. This was the piece right around her hairline. Now I'm going to just kind of slightly vary my angle and go a little bit closer towards that bottom corner of the nape of her neck. So we're just going to take this, and I want to make sure that I'm doing this to get all of that. Brightness and then you guys can see how much darkness she has through here. A lot of her lightness was through the top layer over here. So we want to make sure that we're grabbing all of this and definitely getting some brightness in here alright. So I'm going to again do this and this is a little bit wider of a section, so we will need just a little bit more out. We don't want to again have her be an ombre. Take a look. She does have a lot of brightness already, so we're just kind of enhancing that and bringing it in so again we're gon na tease this up and grab our longer foil. Now I love these foils. If you guys have not used these foils, yet they are amazing. They'Re from frame R and, of course, they're, my favorite color, the rose gold color, and I absolutely love them because you can tear them to the links that you want them to be. So this is great, especially for clients like her who have this insanely long, thick hair. It'S really hard to bunch that up into short foils, so Freight more makes them in this nice beautiful long roll and then I can just paint. However, I need to now. She has a little bit of lightness down here at the end, so what I'm gon na do is. I have saturated it with 30 volume, but I'm gon na go through back with our 10 volume and just kind of rely ton of those ends down here. So it almost created, like a 20 volume down here at these a little bit lighter ends because she definitely has some depth in there. But I don't want it to be full 30 volume for the whole time so just to ensure that her ends stay healthy. Of course, we did use olaplex but make sure that we put a little bit of lightness in there too. So now, I'm just going back through it again just kind of blending this back up into our blending agent. That meant that acidic milk rinse is gon na. Be so so amazing and all I'll kind of explain a little bit more as to why I use it as you go through this process, but for now you guys can see I'm just feathering it up in there and one other thing that I do like to Do sometimes is you can see how maybe this might be a little bit solid, so I'll, take a clean dry brush, and I'm just gon na drive this down right here and just kind of smooth it out a little bit kind of blending anything else that could Be there now she obviously has dark dark hair, so we want to make sure that there's a really gradual lightness and a really nice variance all the way down so we'll take this foil place it right on top and again, this is also a foil from frame. Are these are their pop-up foils, but I love it because it just makes a beautiful rose. Gold color and, of course your clients are gon na love this first, it's just silver foils. I just think it's kind of fun, so just gon na lock that into place and we're gon na do the exact same thing on the other side of the head, all right. So what I did from where we left off was. I did two diagonal backs to one straight across, so I did kind of that halo section just around the hairline and then they just continued up the head so doing two diagonal back B sections, two one straight across you guys can see. This is my straight across section: here's my diagonal backs and doing the exact same thing so now that I've done a straight across one, I'm going to do another diagonal back and you guys can see we're kind of getting to the top crown section of her head. So I'm going to kind of connect my front section to the back right here and we're gon na do just about the Reed quarter of an inch thick about half an inch to 3/4 of an inch thick section. She does have a lot of hair and she has enough lightness, so I'm not really too worried about putting in so much blonde, but you guys can see so I'm gon na do my two just right there. My two V sections right here and we're going to do two of these guys and then one straight across and then I'll show you guys when we get to there. But let's, let's actually go through this section right here, just as I'm catching you up. So you guys can see she still has so much depth through here, there's not a lot of brightness, so this is gon na be really fun to bring in a lot of this step because, like I said, a lot of the depth or a lot of the Brightness was just on this top layer, so we still had a lot of brightness to bring back in. So I'm gon na weave this one just like I did with the first section that I showed you guys. That'S gon na end up being our low light piece. So we're gon na leave that out and then we're gon na tease it, and I do like to kind of start some Midway down and kind of tease up here now. Sometimes what'll happen with some clients. Hair they're teasing doesn't want to stay so it'll start to creep down. So what you can do is you can put a clip in the hair just to kind of keep the section nice and clean and then apply your Lightner from here so grab a piece grab. Our blending agent and a one thing I do love about the blending agent is, I can take my hands away from this foil. It'S not gon na slip, so it helps kind of hold lock that foil into place and so keeps it a lot easier for me. He said just so much easier as I kind of move it around grabbing my whitener all of that stuff. So you guys can see she does have a lot of big thick hair. So what we want to make sure that we're doing is really making sure to get that product in there. So there's not any hollow spots on the inside, because sometimes what can happen is there will be hollow spots internally. So we want to make sure that this piece is really fully fully saturated and I'm using my hand as kind of my backboard and then pushing up against that product into my hand. Another thing that you guys will notice as we kind of go up her hair. She has kind of this hair down here where she has some lightness, but then a lot of it is dark. So what I'm gon na do is I'm gon na weave some of this out or darker pieces? So now we've got these light pieces down here. We'Re gon na let those hang out - and I'm actually gon na, pull this guy up and combine it with our 30 volume up in here, so that this piece is getting fully light and all the way through and then we'll go through and tackle the end separately. With our 10 volumes, this is like weeding out for low lights. You guys can see getting it really really in there making sure to fully fully saturate it we'll take our 10 volume. Just kind of touch these little ends down here. Nothing crazy back! Here is our 30 volume, and now that I fully saturated the rest of the piece, I'm gon na go up and do my feathering technique up into it. So I only want to do this blast because I feel like this is the part that takes like the most tennis, and so I wouldn't want to go through. Do it first and then have it move or something while I'm doing the rest of the hair. So I would like to do this a little part blast. So one thing that you want to make note of is during this part down here in the mid lengths and to the ends, I am pushing the product and I'm definitely adding more force. But then, when we get up to this piece up here, I'm doing a much softer lighter touch when it comes to the feathering, I'm not pushing the product and it's definitely more of a feathering kind of technique, so I'm making sure to get it saturated. But I am doing more like surface painting through there, so just something I wanted to make note of, and then I will take my clean brush and just kind of smooth this out here. You guys can see having this clip up here, really keeps it so that that teasing area is it. You know creeping down in there, we're just going to place a foil right on top and incubate it. I'M gon na do that on the other side over here and then I'll show you guys when we get up to this section all right. So we did my two of diagonal backs and now I'm just gon na do straight across all the way up her head, because we're left with kind of this smaller section, and I don't really necessarily need to do tooth diagonal back. So we end up with this tiny triangle, so I'm just gon na do straight across, so I'm gon na do our first one kind of a triangle, and you guys might see that this is a thicker section, but I still want to leave some depth in her Hair she doesn't want to be platinum, blonde or super crazy blonde. Obviously, if she did, we would be taking a lot less sections and I would be charging a lot of money for this because it would take me a while, but I'm going to do a deep weave on this one. So I am capturing hair from down here. So we're gon na do kind of a deeper weave just like that, but we still are leaving some depth in there. Also, when I tease the hair, you guys can see I'm going to tease it. This will also help us keep some depth in there because we're not going super crazy. You know we are gon na eliminate some of that hair, so it does help a lot and it definitely helps diffuse the light hair as well. So now we're just gon na place our oil after blending agent, and I still am on 30 volume. Once we get around to the front of the hair, I will switch to probably 35, but the fun thing is. I always like to check the hair in some of these lower foils just to see how it's processing, sometimes it doesn't, need to be bumped up, but because it's been sitting on for a while, we are gon na bump it up just to kind of catch. It up to speed, so you guys can see I'm adding more product in this mid length area because she does have thick thick hair right there. It is dark. I want to make sure that it is really saturated and then I'm gon na go through and kind of pull out some of these low lights. Now these pieces are definitely on the lighter side down here, but we just have some darker little lights. Let'S kind of touch those up right in here kind of feathering this through, and then I will take my ten volumes still and just kind of touch it down here. The fun thing about this technique is, you can really customize what kind of developers you're putting in there if you wanted to do a low light. Instead, you could do something like that, so it allows you to really customize what you're doing, because I have this whole surface toupee and really get custom to what I'm doing with her hair. This is also gon na really ensure the health of her hair and integrity while we're working okay. So now, last but not least, I'm going to go back up and just kind of diffuse. This line blend it up in there, and this takes a feeling for sure. Like it definitely takes some time getting used to the pressure you put in how you're doing your brush, so I would just recommend just keep playing around and figuring out what works for you. So now you guys can see. That'S pretty solid right there, so I'm just gon na take my little brush and just kind of blend this down through making sure to wipe it off real good in between and then place my foil on top, let it incubate so we're gon na continue up on This little section right here and I'll show you guys the very long foil we do right here on the top of that alright, so we are gon na. Do this last section here on the top. She does, I think, has a lot of lightness in here already. So I'm not too concerned about this one. I am just gon na bring it up a little bit, so I'm really just gon na kind of do kind of the top layer. Here, I'm not really too worried about it. Cuz. I don't want to make her super super blond. I'M just gon na pull even a little bit more of this out. So all I'm gon na do is I'm going to do the same thing like I did before, but I'm gon na make sure to really diffuse that teasing right there. So we did a lot of teasing and again, I'm gon na clip that out of the way, it definitely helps, especially on sections where it can kind of bunch up really bad, so grab the foil, and this is the section that you really want to pay attention To because here's the thing this is gon na be the piece that will lays over, and so, if it's all chunky or there's lines in the hair, your client is going to notice that it's gon na show up in your Instagram photo. You definitely don't want this. So this is a really really important piece. You want to make sure that it's super super blended and really diffuse nicely all right. So as I'm going through and kind of blending this up in there and be really really careful to make sure that it's blending, while I'm placing the lightener on, I think sometimes when we have clients on a really thick hair, we just slap the lightener on there, Hoping that it blends out - and we get lazy, and so you definitely don't want to do this, especially with somebody with thicker hair, because it is going to show up and you will have problems so even though you're teasing the hair and it's gon na help diffuse. It even though you're using the blending agent, you still want to make sure that it's just blended as possible. I'M gon na go through saturate our ends a little bit down here. Everything is really saturated in there. I'M actually not gon na lock the corners on this one because I don't want it to squish in there. So alright! So now we finished our final. That section, I'm gon na check some of these just to see how we're lightening I'm gon na go remix some Lightner and then we're gon na get to the front alright. So I'm gon na go in and add for a money piece now. One thing that I did notice was she parts her hair kind of off to the side and her money piece on this side is a little bit higher than it is on this side, and this is actually really common when people divide the balayage or foil iaj. Doing side by side, but there's the reason why I like to do these pieces combined so that we don't have that issue. So what I'm gon na do is I'm going to just kind of figure out asked her where she parts her hair so that you're gon na press it right there and I'm just gon na kind of take my section just about 3/4 of an inch wide and The cool thing is with this: technique is you're customizing it to your client and what their hair line looks like, because every client's got a little bit different of a hair line. You guys can see she's actually a little bit thinner on this side, which is no problem, but this allows me to customize it. So I actually want the speed just a little bit thinner on this side. So I'm just gon na take this. Let'S just back away and what I'm gon na do is I'm going to take my section almost like I would a highlight. I'M gon na take this guy and you guys can see. There'S lots of depth in here, and so I'm just gon na kind of weave. It I'm gon na leave out some of those lighter pieces. She does have and we're not gon na actually choose this section, because it's such a fine piece, you don't really need to tease it and especially because we use our lightening agent or blending agent. So I'm just going to use my blending agent right here and again I can take my hands away from this foil. It'S not going to slip our NJ! So another great reason of why it's use that blending agent. Then I'm just gon na paint my Lightner in right here trying to avoid pieces that are already light, so actually just pull this guy out and this is actually a frame our brush. I love this brush because it has that tail comb, so I can kind of be really precision with it or really precise with it. I'M just gon na get up in here and then I'm gon na go back in and I barely have any Lightner on this brush at all and just kind of feather this up into this section into our blending agent and then I'm just gon na literally fold. This into thirds and lock it into place. I'M gon na do two more of these pieces and I'm going to show you guys the front all right. So I did three of those baby like tight, coils and now I'm just literally gon na take this teeny-tiny foil. This is actually getting in some of her baby hairs that she has up here, not the really really short ones, but just a couple of these little guys up here. I do want this to be a little bit stronger around her face, so I am just grabbing this little tiny loss. Coil and doing these types of details on your clients is really gon na make a difference. They will notice the difference between you doing this. One. Last oil - and you not - and this is what's gon na - set you apart from other stylist, so this is just a kind of great little tip anytime. You can add in a little detail like this for your client, it's gon na make a huge difference. They'Ll notice - and I just promise you it will set you apart, okay and then one last thing I like to do, because these little baby hairs are so annoying while the client is processing. So I always just like to get them away from the clients face and then we're gon na place these foils back down, but by getting them out of the clients, face that really helps them feel more comfortable while they're processing. So now we finished her little money piece section right here in the front and I'm gon na go through and do the sides and I'll show you guys what I'm doing alright. So now we're gon na do the pieces on this side and you guys can see. She'S actually got quite a bit of baby hairs in here, but we pulled these baby hairs kind of we incorporated them into our money piece. So I'm not too worried about this little section, but we aren't going to want to tackle this section right here around the hairline. So I'm going to just pull this piece down, and this is going to be our first almost baby light highlight piece: it's gon na mimic what we did in these foils - we're probably going to do two of these ones, just to make sure that it is really Good - and you guys can see it then right here, but that she's also about this thickness here. So we do want to make sure that we're blending it in so that she doesn't have this like blonde chunk running back behind her hair, but also still having enough lightness around her face. So this is a guy, that's going in and customizing it for your client and here hair line. So we'll do a little bit of blood beat a JIT. You guys can see I'm just kind of blending it up into our blending agent. Saying that we're a in this video I apologize and then I'm just gon na fold, this foil into thirds like I would just a regular I like, and with this next piece, I'm going to capture a little bit more kind of up in here now. The key with these pieces is, you do want to keep them closer to baby lights versus thicker highlights because the thinner it is the better it's gon na blend, so you guys can seem actually grabbing. Some of those baby hairs in here now for meteors were a little bit shorter. I wouldn't even bother them because we wouldn't want to have like her fluffy baby hairs being lightened, but these ones are a little bit longer, so we are gon na lighten them. Now. I know sometimes this section can be a little bit tricky or sometimes feel awkward. So, even if it feels a little awkward just know that it feels awkward to me, it does take a little bit of getting used to getting your hand placement down how to hold the foil and stuff so just keep practicing. It will get better, but it sometimes does just go offer it in these positions. That'S totally normal and walk it into place, and now for the rest of her hair, I'm actually going to do diagonal back sections till we reach this top corner here and we're going to do them just the same way. Now. This piece was a piece that we pulled up in our hairline, so we're gon na. Let that hang out down here. These are gon na, be our foliage pieces, so these pieces, because they are a little bit thicker. We are gon na make sure to tease them, and sometimes hair can clump up like that. So we do want to make sure that it is gon na be a nice surface for me to paint on. So if it is all clumped up, go ahead and just rearrange it before you grab your Lightner and try to move it around with your Lightner in there it'll be a lot easier on you, so I'm going to continue up the head just doing the angle back. So we reach that top little corner piece and finish up this session, all right, so we finished her entire head. Just as a recap, we did two diagonal back sections one straight across and we did that all the way up her entire back section until we got to this crown area where we did three straight across. Of course, every piece we weaved teased it and then added our blending agent before we did the lightener then on the sides we did our money piece in the front and then two diagonal backs and then all the way up into this final last corner these pieces. Sometimes we'll do a foil in here, but with her I want to leave a little bit of depth. So what I'm going to do is right before we let the client walk off in process. I always like to check the last foil of the last section that we did just to make sure that there's plenty of blend happening in there so sometimes well. Even just take my brush kind of move, it around make sure there's no pollow spots and you guys can see it's already lifting beautifully. She has some beautiful virgin hair with some lightness already in there. So I'm not too worried about it. But if you ever see any kind of spa ninis or something already happening here, you're gon na want to go back and check your foils, because if this foil is spotty and has issues chances are, you might have other foils that are spotty as well. So you shouldn't, if you do the technique correctly, but you just want to go back and check, so this is looking really beautifully. We'Re gon na go let her process for a little bit. I'M not gon na put her under heat, because it's already looking good. Unless we need to just kind of warm it up for a little bit but know a little process all right, so I just finished rinsing her hair. I did do a little promotion poo to kind of pre tone, but what I did was I mixed up. Some shades eq - and this is gon na - be our main toner. Sometimes if I do use purple shampoo, it's just a pretty tone a little bit, but I know that we're always gon na do a toner after that. So this I mixed up. 9Gi 9 + +, 9 P equal parts, and so I'm going to apply it starting at the bottom of her head. So they lift up okay, so I'm gon na start applying it kind of at the area where it is the most warm. You guys can see that she's definitely got some warmth in here and she was pretty dark to begin with. So I'm happy with how she lightened we're gon na start kind of in there, and then I'm just gon na keep kind of working on my way down. I am gon na leave. Her ends out just a little bit till I get towards the end of her processing because I don't want them to get too muddy. So I'm just gon na start applying kind of down here and then we will work our way. All the way up through the entire head and probably live this process from anywhere from about five to ten minutes. Alright, so we just finished blow-drying her and have you ever have a moment when you're blow-drying your client and maybe there's an area? That'S not totally blended, but you're a freed entire client because you don't know how to fix it or you don't have time to take them back to the shampoo detail and do all that. And so you just let them go home crossing your fingers, hoping that they don't notice this little spot that maybe wasn't totally blended. It happens to all of us, especially on clients that have darker hair there's a spotter hair that I noticed when I was blow-drying that wasn't quite the way that I wanted it to be. So I'm gon na share with you guys a quick little trick that you can do that takes maybe 5 to 10 minutes and if you address it with your clients, you are still in control, the second that they say: hey, there's like something funky right here or They have to come back that takes you out of the driver's seat, and so it's actually really important to make sure that you're addressing things like this, while they're in the chair, fixing it right then in there and keeping it really simple. So all I'm gon na do is there's a little spot kind of right here to me this is kind of me being OCD. It'S sometimes hard to see in the light it's a little bit spotty, so I'm just literally going to pick up kind of the area where I see it a little tiny bit, spotty honestly, not even that bad, but I'm going to take a foil and I mixed Up jay-z q 5n in my little mixing bowl, and so I'm just literally gon na blur. It just write down like that. Just bear me over that little spot that I feel like it's a little spotty and fold it up, and then there was one other spot in this section as we parted her hair kind of more towards the middle. That bothered me. So I'm just gon na. Do the exact same thing put it in these two little foils rinse it out in a towel, and then we should be good to go alright. So now it's processed for just a few minutes. So all I'm going to do is I'm going to pull this foil out and I'm just going to use a spray bottle. The reason why I like using jzq is because you don't have to necessarily shampoo it out afterwards, so I'm just gon na make sure that it rinse it really good with a spray bottle and just kind of pull it through with this towel and then we'll just Dry, this little section that we just put in so now. You guys can see that just blended that little spotty piece out and now she has a beautiful blend - and that took me - maybe 10 extra minutes, but it's so so worth it. So your client doesn't go home unsatisfied with their color, and here is our final result. Oh my gosh, I love how it turned out. We got so many beautiful blonde tones in there super blended, and that tip, where is shared with you guys, is that last five minutes makes such a big difference. So I hope that you guys try that out. Even if you have clients that don't necessarily have blended color, that's a really quick way to fix it before they go home. Alright guys. Thank you so much for watching this video. I hope that you learned something new and that you're gon na try out my new secret sauce with the acidic milk runs from biologic. It is amazing, I love the way that it feels it helps with the detangling of the hair, and I absolutely love how this method works with my signature. Foil attached technique. So if you guys recreate this, look on your own make sure to tag me in your stories or, if you're, watching this video screenshot. It share it on your stories and tag me so that I can see that you're watching. I love connecting with those of you who are watching my videos and seeing the stuff that you recreated. If you haven't already said hi over on Instagram, come on over, it's ten Museum say hi. I want to know what you loved about this video and a light bulb moment that you took away from it. So thank you guys for watching and I'll see you guys next time.