The Rachel Layered Haircut Tutorial

We get bored in the salon because we're never trying anything new. If you stay educated, it gets you excited. It gets you wanting to try something new. You try that new thing on your guests, then, all of a sudden you have a higher average ticket. It'S gon na be a great day topic flip it spray it flip it. I woke up this way: what's up guys gon na trade to today's podcast, so it's not gon na be an audio podcast. Today, I'm gon na show you guys a technique. I'Ve already edited the video today we're gon na be focusing on the Rachel haircut, which seems a little crazy, because when I was in beauty school I believe that was like not even popular then so so just going back, we're going back we're going back in time. Really excited to share with you guys this technique, though, and explain why I'm doing this haircut, but also we're gon na do a giveaway. So I want to talk about that and Minerva Beauty. Calm is my partner on this podcast, so they've been a sponsor for a very long time, and one thing I want to encourage you guys to do is in this time now, where we're kind of like trying to figure things out, trying to figure out. What'S going on with the salon industry and just really human beings in general, I want to do more of these live streams so that we can just stay educated, keep each other, inspired and and learning, because my theory is oh, when you get better when no one Else is is like thinking about it right. So for me, anytime, like when I was out of hair school, when I was in hair school, when I, when I went home, I would practice more and the reason I would practice more is cuz. I knew nobody else was practicing, so the way that you get better the way that you kind of grow yourself is to always be learning always be practicing, so we don't know when we're getting back in the salon. A lot of you guys have closed your salon. My salons closed as well. We don't know when we're getting back into it, but we can use this time to really focus and learn so free slot education is going to go even harder. I'M gon na be putting out education even more. I'Ve got great supporters in the salon industry like Paul Mitchell and joy, Co and Minerva. So you know I want to share with you guys that educate and we can do as much as we can together and I want to do these live because then I can interact with you guys and really answer your questions. So I'm gon na play the video. It'S gon na be a live voiceover today. Last time I did a recorded voiceover, but I want you to ask questions during it so that we can all you know, get involved so go to Minerva. Beauty, calm be inspired. So not only do you get inspired from an education standpoint, but also think about your salon and what you want your salon to look at look like when you guys return. I there was uh Justin, Justin Scott. I used to work at our salon. Now he works at a barber shop, but I thought he had a cool post. The other day I saw that his barber shop said that they're closed for renovations, even though we all know that our shops are closed, because it's kind of being forced to at this point, um they're doing renovations, they're, making things look better. So, just because you don't have guests in your salon doesn't mean you shouldn't be thinking about. What do you want your song to look like when you get back? What do you want your policies to be? What do you want? You know just take this time to really reorganize everything, so Minerva, Beauty, comm. If you look at their Instagram app Minerva Beauty, you can get a ton of inspiration from the different. Let me pull it up. Actually, the thing I love about their Instagram is that they're always posting different design ideas, so things that don't even cost you money at this point, you could just go in clean up your salon, organize it. If I can this easy guys, you could do it with me a nerve abuse there we go. So if you look at their Instagram e, you can see all these different design ideas, ways to stay in focus. Buddy you can there, you go anyways, so go check out. Minerva Beauty on Instagram they've supported me for a long time. Support of this podcast. So I want you guys to support them check them out. Go give them a like it'll give them some love. Also we're doing a giveaway today, let me throw that up on the screen here. Paul Mitchell is the partner of this Cass today and we're gon na give away the violets and blues the new violets and blues from their Demi line, so there's five new shades. I believe that's what it is. So you've got three V: 6 V, 1, a a 6 a a and 10 a a and they're gon na. Give you guys a kit of that. So the way that I want you to do this is on any of the social media platforms. You'Re watching me right now. I want you to comment on Paul Mitchell, just right, Paul Mitchell in the comments and then I'll know you want to be in the contest and you'll have a chance to win that and we'll do that, drawing at the end of March, so I'll keep teasing it And then, at the end of March, we're gon na give away a kit of all those colors. So let's get started today with what we're gon na talk about the Rachel right. So the the funny thing is: I'm gon na do a color technique, real quick! It'S a toning technique. I'M going to show you guys what these violets and blues look like um, but the haircut is what we're really gon na learn today, and I want you to see. You'Ve got the Rachel on the one side and on the other side is a girl named. I think Haley Bieber, it's Justin, Bieber's wife, so um a lure magazine is saying that the Rachel's coming back, they're, saying she's wearing it. It'S definitely not the same haircut. So I want to show you guys kind of a modernized version of what the Rachel was um and I'm gon na walk you through that step by step so kind of exciting. The things that I notice about this cut is that it's very heavy and a lot of the face frame, videos that I've taught in the past that some of you guys maybe have watched um. I try to remove a lot of weight from the face frame. So with this we're building up a lot of weight, which is just the biggest difference, I think in this cut she's also got it looks like pretty thick hair. I'M not sure I got to stay six feet away, so I'm not sure how thicker hair is, but I think it looks like to me medium to thick. So it's you know, I'm going to show you guys how to kind of keep that weight in there. For this particular cut, so to start off, let me get myself lined up here, so I don't so. I can pause the video if I need to um. Let me see here alright, so we're gon na switch in got that going alright. So, first off, I'm gon na show you guys mixing. I want to show you guys this toning technique. Let me see if I can play it alright, so I'm gon na use the Paul Mitchell flash toner violet. This is a really cool. It'S a brass free flash finish so you've just leave it on two to ten minutes, and we did some pre highlights on this. Mannequin Carly did it. Thank You, Carly umm. You can see how brassy those highlights are. So what I do is I just go in and I paint that on now, I'm doing it on dry hair. I, like toning on dry hair because a lot of times when you put a toner on wet hair it dilutes it a little bit. So if it's not a strong toner you're, not gon na get the quite the results that you're looking for and I'm just gon na go through paint that all the way through - and I wanted to give this a kind of a finished touch. So you guys could see what these toners do and then we're gon na go in and do the haircut so see all of you guys, posting Paul Mitchell on there see the violet tones coming through process it for ten minutes. I went the max because I want to show you guys that result now we're gon na get into the cut on basically what the cut here I do a center parting, so I'm gon na go Center straight down Center back to section it off. Let me continue it through comb everything down and then I'm gon na split it at the division line. So what I like to do here is notice, where I'm a little further, oh great good job, Matt, so anyways I'll, let it roll, but you could see. I try to get to the point where I'm connecting to that back of the neck nape line area and the reason I like to do. That is because that's the same density. So if you look at this part of the head right in this area, so from the neck, all the way up to the high point, that's all the same density and then everything from behind the ear to the front is the same density. So, when you're working on your clients, you want to make sure that you understand what the density is. So if I'm cutting the back the same as the front and they're not the same density, you're gon na get a different result. So it's just important to understand that so comb everything forward and away also know if you guys, post questions I'll, be able to see them. I can see them on all the chats, so let me know um, then I go straight down center back and what I'm gon na do is just work on cutting a blunt, so straight down Center back across the occipital bone, all the way to behind the ear And I'm a section that nice horizontal line through it now anytime, I take a parting for the most part. What I'm doing is I'm drawing the line that I want to mimic with my finger angle when I start to cut so what I mean by that is. My fingers will now match that line. So I use that parting as my guide, so as I'm cutting across. I just mimic that and then I know that I'm going to stay consistent throughout the cut and what I'm really trying to do is just build a nice thick kind of blunt line on the bottom. That'S why I go from the occipital bone down and just cut one section, and I just cut that through now, I'm gon na let the rest of the back down and now we're gon na start to elevate and create layers. So there's a question on here about the toners um. I think it's Shawna she's saying how do you know which toners are strong? So what I mean by a strong toner is when you get familiar with the line. You'Ll know that some toners have a lot of pigment and then some are a lot lighter. So that's what I mean by a strong toner, it's you're, not gon na know it. So you get used to using the line so um. You could always try on wet. First and just know, I also recommend that you always use mannequins to test things out right. So anytime, you're bored in the salon - or you know, you're looking to you know just figure things out test things out. You'Re in between clients, grab a mannequin bleach a spot and then try out toners, try it on dry, try it on wet and then you'll know moving into it. That'S what an educated person does so that they go into the situations and they set themselves up. So now we start our elevation here and I'm gon na use that bottom piece as my guide line and I'm gon na work up the round of the head, so we might think doing a 90 degree. Haircut is a little bit dated. You know, that's what we learned in beauty school and we always thought that was a dated haircut. Well, the Rachel haircut kind of caters to that rounded layer effect. So I take PI shape sections and I bring it over to the previous section. So it's a traveling guide. So, even though you can't really see how far over I'm pulling it just know that I section about a half inch section and I pull it to the previous and I just work my way all the way across the head. The reason that I can do this is because of those that same density, so this whole back panel that I'm working on has the same density. If I sectioned over top of the ear that last section, I wouldn't want to elevate it and cut it at that 90 degree, because I would be taking out too much weight and then you get a hole so understand that. That'S why? When I'm working my way around the head, but I just I make sure I stop right at that - hairline, alright, so continuing around and now I'm going to do the same thing on the opposite side. Good to see all of you guys logged on got lots of people on here anybody's still working in the salon. That'S what I'd like to know put that in the chat. So I just continue same thing now that one difference here is gon na, be that I'm pushing the hair now on this side to the guide. So I've talked about this a million times, but maybe you're tuning in for the first time. I always want to push the new hair towards the guide line. I never want to drag the guide to the new hair. It'S just a good rule like to go by now we're gon na work, the most important part. So I want to talk about the face frame a little bit, so you can see. I take a diagonal forward parting right there and what I'm doing is I'm taking that diagonal forward parting and I'm gon na pull it over to me now in a lot of cases, your guest doesn't want a real heavy face frame. So what I like to do in that kit, in when they don't want a heavy face frame, is I elevate the hair, you're gon na notice on this point, I'm going to be lowering the hair with my elevation. Also gon na find my guideline now. A good golden rule here is to cut it and then check it and then cut more if you need to err on the longer side so that you don't cut too short of a face rim, so you'll notice - I even left it in there because I wanted To share with you guys how many times I cut it, I cut it three times to really get that length where I wanted it to. I just work it little by little. So now another diagonal forward parting, bringing it over to me. Low elevation building up that way and I'm just gon na continue through this side and what you'll notice is that my elevation drops more and more and the reason it's great to drop your elevation. At this point is we're starting to work so where it's going to connect to the opposite side. So now I'm connecting it all through and we've got a nice face, frame nice heavy face frame, and then it connects to the back. So same thing here, grab a piece from the other side, use that as my guide, so now I don't have to cut multiple times got through it and just keep working diagonal forward party. Oh just keep working through. So it's pretty simple the technique. Just kind of keep bringing everything over you could do this on longer hair as well, so it doesn't have to be the Rachel haircut. So, if you're looking to build like a heavy face frame on long hair, this works that way as well. You just keep bringing everything over. We saw across the street back in the day, working with Paul Mitchell um, pretty simple technique. Now, I'm just blending the back in the front. So now I cut my blunt line. This is like a good point. I think a lot of people like to cut on the late like they cut the length, then the layers we did that in the back, but I don't like to do that for the whole cut. So I wanted to determine the length in the front one. I see how the layers kind of play out so you'll notice that I did all the layering all of that and then I connected the back with the front and you can finished off that round line. I also don't love cutting from the bottom point, especially in the front, because if I cut layers from this bottom line, if I cut the line first, then layer it if you layer from that line, what tends to happen is it takes away the density from the Line so you don't get a nice blunt feel and a lot of people with the trend. Nowadays they want that um that real blunt line that blunt feel on the haircut so I'll cut it blunt afterwards and I'll even take it up, maybe a little bit just so I get an even more thick kind of feel to the line. Hopefully that makes sense. So now I'll continue through there all the way around the other side. So Marco saying he's from Italy, 15 days closed, take care, guys crazy, craziness out there alright. So now I'm gon na blow a try I put in Paul Mitchell. This was invisible where volume a whip. I put that in the hair work that through love this product, cuz its humidity resistant and it's got a really natural feel to it. It doesn't feel sticky at all. I love a good foam in the hair, so I'll put that in there do a little bit air drying first and then I go in with my ergo round brush and I start round brushing it to get that volume. So you know create that kind of that face frame that goes into the face. So you'll see right here, start to round brush around brushing everything straight out from the head, get a pretty much maximum volume on there and really smooth and polish that hair out. We won't go through the whole technique. It'S a basic round. Brush set all the way around you'll, see 90 degrees, and then I'm gon na finish it up with invisible, wear orbit. Hairspray, it's got it really good hold to it. It'S pretty standard hairspray, I think smells delicious um, don't eat it and that's kind of the end result. You can see the the tone really calmed down from that toner that flash toner really made it a nice soft, beautiful blond. But then it's got all those layers in so here's the one thing I want to say to you guys, I'm not the inventor of what's fashionable right. Everyone should know that I'm an educator, so I was looking through what our popular haircuts and people are saying. The Rachel so um, you know I just go through and I teach you guys what I'm seeing is popular. So I'm not creating the popular looks, I'm just teaching you them. I don't know if this haircut would become popular, but what I want you guys to really think about is the fact that it's um, it's learning techniques so understand that techniques are important, you're going to use them all through career, so that face dream technique. Maybe you take that from it. Maybe you never do this haircut, but you'll do that face frame technique and think about the fact that you could do higher elevation to remove weight, have a nice light, face, frame or lower elevation to keep weight, which works really well as well um, and that's pretty Much that so do you guys think that this is gon na, be a trend? Do you think that this is something that will be popular out there? Let me know post in the comments, I'd love to see that does anybody have any questions post, those I'm going to hang on here for just a second, so I can see if you have questions about the technique. Remember comment Paul Mitchell. If you want to win this kit, we're giving it away at the end of March 2020, so just in a couple weeks, we're gon na do a giveaway. Thank you to Paul Mitchell for providing that and supporting free saw in education and its community. You guys so um you guys. I have a lot of fun with that kit. Let'S see - and you do this on very fine hair Jenny's asking so um. Yes, you can do it on fine hair. It'S actually. So it depends on what your clients like, but a lot of my fine hair clients that want a face frame. I do low-elevation on them to keep that density a little bit um and it it creates that face frame without layering it too much um. So any type of fine hair, the problem with fine hair is you don't want to have too little of layers, because you also don't want their hair to be heavy and falling down. So picking the right product which this invisible, where volume whip is actually pretty good because it makes the hair feel a little thicker, humidity resistant, but also it's light so for fine hair. It works really well. When you pull the front side out how far over? Did you go Lyn when you pull the front side out how far over I'm not sure? If I understand the question so I'm gon na say so the front side when I pulled it out how far over did you go? I think she's, probably talking about the over direction on the face frame, I'm assuming. If that's what she's asking we went until there was no more hair, so I kept pulling it till my guide that I had in the front ran out and there was no longer hair coming over and then you know to stop on the sides. So it could be different on on all different haircuts, especially if you didn't cut the back, so we layered the back, so we didn't have to go as far back. But if we didn't layer the back and she had really long hair, then you might pull even more hair from around the back to the side to the front. Okay, I love volume with it. So versatile awesome, let's see Inc, that's it! I think that's good. I think we got it, I don't see any other eye. I see a lot of. Thank you, so you're very welcome everyone. I want to just let you guys know that you know free sauna. Education is here for you guys and we actually have some big things coming up. I'M testing something tomorrow. I wish I could tell you guys about it, but hopefully it'll be out in the next week or two which will help your training needs even more. It'S really hopefully gon na, take Reese on education to another level, make it more accessible for you, guys and more of a tool for you guys as well, and of course it will be free, so um, so yeah Reese on education is here. If you guys need anything, let me know post in the comments what you want to see next, I know that I had some great things sent to me. Some products sent to me to make videos with so I got some new products to announce to you guys as well, which will be really exciting, that'll be coming up in the next couple days. I'M gon na be filming all day tomorrow, multiple techniques so that the education just keeps coming out and you guys don't get bored and you have lots and lots to learn. So, thank you guys so much. I think it's Cassie, Cassie or Casey said Matt. Will you do any kind of petitions to help us, so I have seen the petitions going around to help Beauty professionals. So obviously I think the word is out there and obviously we'll do anything we can to spread it, but yeah guys make sure you're signing those petitions - and you know so, but I believe in my heart that the government right now is trying to figure things out In the US, hopefully around the world, because this isn't anybody's fault, this is just a big. You know a thing that we all have to deal with. So all I can do is educate cuz. That'S all. I know how to do and we're gon na keep doing that and, and hopefully figuring things out men's cut. Next, that would be cool. Probably will do that for sure. Let me know anything else. You guys want to see any hands-on classes coming out. No, it's funny. Cuz I was just telling Christina yesterday that I was thinking about launching some hands-on classes and I'm glad I didn't because obviously we don't know when we'll be able to do that in person, but we can do it this way. So hopefully this helps alright guys. Thank you so much for for being a part of everything, for I don't need to play that video again, unless you guys want to do it all over again. Okay, thank you guys for being a part of briefs on education. I really appreciate it being a part of the community. Let me know if you have questions comments, support the channel by subscribing, and I will see you guys soon, thanks so much. I won't come this way. It'S gon na be a great day shop, equip it spray. It flip it. Let me show you the way it's gon na be a great day top equip it spray. It flip it. I woke up this way. It'S gon na be a great day chop. It