Reverse Platinum Hair To Natural Blonde Color Correction | Easy Highlight And Root Shadow Technique

Oh welcome to this video. I am so excited for this particular transformation because you might recognize my model, miss ally. We did her hair a couple years ago when we took her from a dark brown, almost black color, to a platinum blonde with our platinum card. It'S one of my most popular videos and in fact it went viral all over instagram, but i am excited to share with you our transformation today. She is ready to go from a full platinum root, touch-up to something a little bit more low maintenance. And so this is going to be a great technique that you can use on your clients who are looking to transform their hair from something so high maintenance, where they're having to get their roots done every three to four weeks to something that they can go. A lot longer in between so we're going to do this transformation. It'S almost like a color correction and i'm excited to take you along for the journey. So let's get started all right, so this is our before and as you can see, we've got a fun color correction on our hands, so ally has been growing out her roots. We had done a fun platinum card before and you can also see that she did a little bit of pink underneath there. So that's been kind of fading out and then she did have her husband, diy some highlights in between there. So we have some fun. Color correction: you can see there's even just a little bit of bleed marks some banding and a very strong line of demarcation that we're going to be tackling and working through. But i'm excited to do this color transformation because we're going to get ally back to a place of lower maintenance hair so that she doesn't have to do her roots every four weeks. So i'm excited to tackle this. Let'S get started all right, so i'm getting ready to mix up her lightener and i'm going to be starting with 20 volume in the bottom section, we're going to work our way up to 25 volume and then we're going to go up to probably about 30 volume. Once we finish it off, but by changing up our developers every time when i either remix or when i get to a new section, we'll help ensure that we're making sure that everything processes all at the same time and we're not over processing her hair in the Bottom in the middle or on the top section, and i'm also going to add in just a little bit of olaplex, just to ensure the health of her hair as we're working through it. So we are going to dive in and i have already done the one side of her head, but i'm going to start here and i'm going to be doing a diagonal back just to get her a little hairline, i'm going to start with baby lights around her Hairline and then we're going to work our way up to regular highlights now, if you've ever watched any of my full highlight videos, that's basically what i'm doing here. Um but, like i said, we're just gon na start with some baby lights just around her hairline, so that it really grows out super seamlessly. This is really important because she wants low maintenance. She wants to not have to be doing her roots all the time. So obviously the thicker highlights are gon na show up more so the baby lights allow us to have it grow out and just grow out almost like a balayage would so we're gon na get right in there, and i'm probably gon na do about six foils um. All the way up around her hairline just to tackle this and again we're starting with 20 volume with olaplex here, just to ensure that we don't you know, have anything that over processes, especially down in this section, even when we're doing those baby lights do so. As you can see, i'm getting down into her lower hairline as well here. So i'm grabbing not only just the sides, but also this bottom area, and one thing that you want to be very careful of, especially when you're highlighting somebody and transitioning them out of a platinum. You want to make sure that you're not overlapping where they had their lightener before so we're just like barely tapping it in making sure to get that line of demarcation, but also making sure to be very aware that we're not overlapping just to be very cautious. With that hair, because it's definitely going to be more sensitive because it was platinum before so, i'm going to continue doing a few more highlights diagonal back till i kind of reach right here and we'll meet up with our other side. So i've met up to the middle and, like i said, i tackled that bottom hairline in these foils. So now what we're going to do is i'm going to start just going straight up now. This is going to be a little baby foil right here, because um we're just kind of marrying it with the other section. So i'm going to grab this little guy and then we're just going to continue weaving all the way up until we get to the top. So now we're moving up to our top section. You can't even see these foils, but i finished all these foils underneath she's got a lot of hair, so we did diagonal backs and then we worked all the way up to kind of just higher a little higher than the occipital bone. We'Re kind of about midway through so now. What i'm going to do is i'm actually going to section this out real quick here, i'm going to go to about the apex of the head kind of where her head starts to round down, and i'm just going to take a straight across section. We'Re going to clip this away and if you've watched any of my other foiling videos, you know that i like to foil backwards. So we're going to start here and i'm going to literally take our foil and do it the opposite way. So i'm going to weave this section and a big reason why i'm weaving is to help break up that line of demarcation. We could do slices, but i really want to make sure that this grows out subtly and that we're breaking up that line. At the same time, so i'm going to work our way down to the section that we had before and by the way i did switch to 25 volume with olaplex right when we got to the top, so we're just kind of moving along here. Okay, so i finished all the way down to that section and now what i'm doing is i'm coming down and just pulling the foils down now. Usually, what i do is i fold them in half, but i'm actually not going to do that today, because we're actually going to be painting in between on this hair and it's nice to have a backing. So i'm not going to fold them down. I'M just going to literally bring them down gently making sure to not have anything slip or anything like that, and then we're going to start on their top section all right. So now i've spun her around to the front and i'm going to be working through her mohawk section. So i'm first going to take a little section and section away this and then we're going to go in with our highlights. I already have a clip there and you can see we have a little bit of bleed marks here. So this is great because we're actually tackling those right as we're uh dealing with it. So i'm going to pick up that bleed mark in to our foil so that we can remove it essentially and, like i said, all of the hair in between these foils are going to be glazed over and kind of drag that root down. So i'm not too worried about it. If anything is left out because it's going to be covered up anyways, so we're going to blur those out not a big deal. So i'm going to continue all the way up. Her mohawk section doing more highlights not so much baby lights and then, when we get around to the front of her hair, we're going to be doing some more baby lights just again, so that around her face it kind of blends really nicely um. But then also too, because she's got a lot of little baby hairs up there. So i would not say that i'm doing chunky highlights, but i am doing just average thickness and you can see we can still see through the foil um, but we're just kind of tackling that there there's a couple of our bleed marks in there. So again, we're just going to kind of take our lightener go right over them and just making sure not to overlap at all over the previous blonde. So we're going to continue this all the way forward and i'll show you when we get to the front all right, so we worked our way all the way up to the front, and now we are here at her hairline now you can see. She'S got a little bit of these baby hairs in here that we're going to tackle but they're long enough, where we're actually going to highlight them. Sometimes the people have too short of baby hairs. It can almost look like breakage if you highlight them too closely, but hers are long enough that we'll be able to get those in there. So i'm just going to go in and i also noticed that she's got a decent amount of gray coming in, which is awesome, because this is actually going to help us blend in these baby lights even better. So i'm going to kind of be working with her gray pattern here as well, and this will help it grow out even nicer for her. So this is really important of why we're doing those baby lights. It just helps it grow out softer around the face, so that your clients don't have these lines growing out if you've ever had clients complain. Oh it just feels like it's such a strong grow out. When i wear my hair back in a ponytail, it's probably because you're not doing fine enough highlights around the face. So, even if i do a full highlight a regular highlight whatever i do, i typically do baby lights around the face and my clients started to notice that it was different than what they've ever had done before and different from other stylists. So this will help set. You apart, it's a big deal and it's definitely something that you want to integrate into your highlighting surfaces. So i'm just going to work my way, all the way up to the front and we'll probably end up doing about five or six foils in this little front. Section, maybe more less is more so again, i could have done this in like three or four foils, but i'd rather get it all the way in there and make sure that we're tackling this. She also wants a pretty strong money piece here in the front as well, so i'm not leaving a ton of hair out all right. So now we've got our little baby hairs and what i decided to do was, i ended up folding a foil in half, so we've got these little mini foils. So i'm just going to take our first section here. We'Ll do two foils, and this will help us get into that widow's peak area, so this next foil, these hairs are little tiny, tiny ones. Normally. I might leave these out on a regular highlight, but because she wants a strong money piece, i am going to highlight these, but you can see they're just like tiny little baby hairs, so we're going to put those in a small foil and these actually because they're So small in such a small amount of them, we might actually need to pull these foils earlier before the rest of the hair is ready. So now i'm going to tackle her sides and we'll show you uh once i do this side i'll show you the other side. Okay. So now we are on her other side and you can see she's got a lot of these little baby hairs. So again, i'm going to go in with my smaller foils here and i'm going to try to tackle this little section right here. Um. These are just going to be really tight and i almost call them like intimate foils right they're like really tiny, they're, really tight and they're all up in there. So um these take a little practice. You'Re going to see. I even got a little lightener on my fingers. I was trying to place that down. Don'T worry, it's going to take a little practice to get this down, but the biggest key and the thing that helps you have the most success with this is small foils and a brush that can get in there and get really tight. So you want to make sure that your foils aren't too stiff or too thick. It'S going to be really hard to get those in there and you want to make sure that your brush isn't too wide or the bristles aren't too thick. So i love this brush from framar, it's one of my favorite brushes. I actually have it linked in my description box below, so you guys can check out all of my favorite frame art products there, but that is a key difference. If you don't have the right, brushes or you're, using cheaper, brushes or something that's too stiff, you're not going to be able to get all of these little baby hairs in there, so definitely invest in it and honestly having those brushes have saved my life. Now her hairs right here are just too short, too short, too fine, and it's going to look like breakage, so we're just going to kind of brush those out of the way i'm going to do one more little foil, right here, kind of actually going backwards, and This is something that's really fun about doing foil work around the hairline. Is you get to customize it for your client, so we're just going to kind of do this little backwards guide right here, tackle this and then i'm going to go around to the front. So now we're here on her side and you know, clients have have been wearing masks for a little while now, so we're kind of used to it. But the biggest thing that i like to do when i come around to the sides is just kind of take. My comb and even just comb it out to make sure that there's no hairs left underneath the elastics around the mask. So usually you can work around the mask no problem, but you just want to make sure that you're not missing any hairs or getting lazy right. There, because you could miss some really important sections, so i'm going to do this first foil, this one's going to be another little baby light we're not taking that much hair, we're barely weaving anything out. I'M going to take one of my small foils here and tackle this and again we're kind of blending it into her gray pattern that she has going on. So this is going to be great because her grays are almost going to act like baby lights when they grow out. So this is just going to accent that and make it even better for her grow out. Now i'm going to go in with just a regular size, foil here and we're going to continue doing diagonal, backs baby lights still around the face. I still i'm going to weave out just a little bit here, just a tiny, tiny bit. I don't like it to be too solid on the sides i feel like that grows out really strongly it's fine to have it a little bit on that widow's peak area, sometimes through the top, but i don't like it to be too solid on the side. So i do weave a little bit of hair out. I just think it looks more natural, so i'm going to continue doing some diagonal backs all the way till we get to the top all right. So i'm going to be mixing up her root shadow and i'm gon na be doing half of our formula is the four and b i'm gon na just do one ounce of that and then i'm gon na be doing the other half six gb. So half ounce of that and then a half ounce of six n, so two ounces, total and then for our processing solution. I'M going to be adding this to a bowl not into a bottle, because we're going to be painting this in between i'm going to be using the gloss to gel processing solution, so the thicker processing solution, not the regular one. This will allow it to just be a little bit thicker as we're applying it and help it flow better. So add that in and previously you used to use the color thickener, but because we have the gloss to gel developer, we're not going to have to use the color thickener. So i brought this out just to show you. If you don't have the gloss to gel developer, you could use something like the color thickener just to thicken up a little bit um, but then they developed this and you really don't need it so anyways. Let'S mix up and we're gon na head over there and one last thing i am going to just add a little bit of our biolage raw color care, acidic milk rinse into a bowl, and i'm gon na have a little brush with this, because this is going To help us blur so that there's not a line of demarcation, as we add this in and it's gon na help just make sure that it's just a nice soft blend so just have a little bowl of this on the side. So we've let her process for just about 15 minutes and you can see that she's kind of lifting up to a nice pale yellow, but she still has some processing time to go. I'M going to assume that she's probably got about another 15-20 minutes. So this is the perfect time to put on her color and i did kind of slide that foil down here. So i'm just gon na slide this one in there just in case, so we don't have any bleed marks or anything that overlaps. But what we're going to be doing with her natural root? Is i'm going to be dragging down this root? Color and all i'm doing? Is i'm just kind of barely dragging it down past that line of demarcation? So you can see, we've got her natural color, i'm going all the way to the root on it and then we're just kind of barely going down that past. That line of demarcation about half an inch and then i'm taking that blending agent and just kind of tapping that in there so that's going to ensure that we don't get another line right there, because as we're going down, we don't want to create more lines. So i'm just going to drop down each foil and it is a lot easier. If you have somebody helping you do this, but if you don't have somebody doing it, it is going to take just a little bit of time. It takes a little bit of practice. Doing this i know this is kind of tedious, but you'll just keep using clips and just be very clean with your sectioning being very aware of these ends and all of that kind of stuff, because nothing's worse than if you go and touch one of these ends And then we've got a dark spot right there. So just be very aware of that and some of these foils i am pulling just a little bit deeper or sorry a little bit further down and like see this little piece right. There just want to clean that up so that we don't get any like spots throughout there and, if you need to, i actually had to do this underneath because those foils had been folded in half what i was doing was. I was applying the foil i'll show you just real, quick right here. I had been this. This foil is long enough, so i didn't need to, but i was putting the foil down, so i had enough surface to paint on so you could do that as well. If that's going to be helpful for you, but ultimately this just takes a little practice takes a little bit of um. You know skill and it just takes a little bit of patience. So if you're feeling like this is taking a long time, it probably will it takes me a long time to um. But that's why you want to make sure that you're, giving yourself at least a 15 20, sometimes even 30, minute processing time, because this will take probably about 10-15 minutes to apply all the way throughout her whole head. So just something to be aware of, and once we let this go we'll. Hopefully let it process for about 10 minutes and then maybe she'll be ready to rinse. Now one thing i just want to mention, as i'm finishing up this top section, she did have those kind of bleed marks in there again this little root shadow is now just blurring those out. So we don't even have to worry about those bleed marks, we're taking care of them all in one step, so nice and easy, and then i'm just gon na finish it up here. Okay, so one thing that i did, i already finished the other side, but when i was foiling the hair, i made sure to always pull the extra hair off to one side. So this is going to make it a lot easier when i'm pulling the hair up to make sure that i don't get it on these ends um, if it's all on the same side, if it's on both sides and you're, constantly like pushing the hair off to One side or another inside the foil, it's going to make your life a lot more complicated because you have to do this for both sides. So this is the more complicated side, which is why i wanted to show you. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to take up her little ends and she's got a lot of these little baby ends. So we're just going to kind of clip them up out of the way here. Um even just kind of this type of thing and we're going to take a foil just like this and we're going to end up putting it here just to be extra cautious. We will not be really putting color up there, but i just want to be sure that we're not accidentally getting it on these ends. Now i will tell you this part of the process looks super messy and it looks very um, maybe unprofessional. I don't know it. Just looks messy and disorganized, but i promise you that there is a organization to this. So if it starts to feel a little overwhelming, just know that that's why it's totally normal. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to take each foil and kind of fold it up individually. If you try to do them all at once, it won't collapse right. So we're going to fold these up and again. This is definitely a lot easier. If you have an assistant helping you with this, it can be a little hard put these guys up out of the way get all of these back up in here now, we've got our little foils and we're just going to kind of clip them up, and i'm Just going to barely paint on now, i actually left the one foil out right around the hairline, we're not going to tap on that root because we'll do it right when we are at the shampoo ball. But i'm just going to barely tap this down here and i'm not really going beyond where her color was because these are very short little pieces. So just kind of go right in here, and one thing i also did was i tore some foils in half so that we can lay this on here and not have to worry about sticking it or getting it on the hairs below that. So i'm going to use these, as i continue all the way up the side and that's going to make this so much easier and less messy for us, especially when it comes to your client's mask being in the way and all that kind of stuff you just Want to make sure that you're keeping this really clean and organized so i'm going to continue all the way up till i get to the top. So i worked my way all the way up and you can see because i started from the bottom and worked in the direction that the foils were falling. It made it so much easier because now i've just got all of these little baby hairs. All kind of in here, so i'm gon na fold, this away from my model's face so she's not having to sit with it um we can remove this foil um and if we really wanted to, we could even put one of these little baby foils just right Up in here just to ensure that nothing accidentally sits on it or whatever one of these hairs but um now you can see that's nice and clean and we're gon na let her process for a little bit longer and then we'll rinse her out. Okay. So, as i'm rinsing you're gon na notice that i'm actually trying to keep these ends up out of the uh out of the shampoo area now, this is definitely helpful if you have an assistant, but we want to try to keep those ends, light and bright, and We actually might be doing a treatment on her ends just to depend on how they're, how they're doing, but i'm actually leaving her money piece in that foil for a little bit. But just while we try to rinse this section to get a lot of that root. Shadow out, i don't want her ends to get too dingy, so that's definitely something to keep in mind as you're rinsing all right. So i just rinsed out all her foils and, as i was pulling out even the sides i was going through and rinsing as i was going. Obviously, it takes a little bit longer to rinse out the hair that way, but it's going to ensure that the ends don't get super muddy. So um, here's what she looks like completely rinsed out. This is just our you know, highlights in there and then with our um. You know natural root, just kind of blended down so so far it already looks so good. But what we're going to do now is we're actually going to go in and put a just a slight root shadow on her root area, so we're just going to kind of tap this out and that'll help blend it just even more now you can see she Has a little bit of that leftover pink in there? I don't know if you guys can kind of tell she's got a little bit of leftover pink. This actually isn't from the color blending out right now or fading. I should say, as we were rinsing it. That'S from her leftover pink, so i'm going to do a treatment on her just to kind of help, get rid of leftover toner or anything like that and i'm. While she is sitting, i'm going to put some olaplex number two on her just to kind of close down that cuticle close down the bring down the ph a little bit and then we'll do the treatment on her ends and then we'll do her root shadow. Okay. So i rinsed out her olaplex number two and then i went through and i put the malibu cpr on her end to kind of break up that extra pigment that she had. She had some old purple shampoo in there um and then obviously her pink that had faded out. So we just put that on her ends for about 15 minutes and now i'm gon na rinse that out and i'm gon na go mix up her root shadow. So i'm gon na mix up her root shadow. We'Re gon na do a slightly different formula, uh for this than what we did before. So i'm gon na do three quarters of an ounce, 5n and three quarters of an ounce six and b. So it's just slightly a little bit lighter than what we had done for her in between. So we've got an ounce and a half of color and then i am going to be doing the thicker processing solution again the gel to gloss processing solution uh, just because it will be a little bit easier and we are going to apply this over at the Chair, instead of at the bowl just for a little bit more precision, so i sectioned out her hair just to make it a little bit easier and to make it less messy again. This is something that can be messy or feel a little disorganized. So pre-sectioning out is just going to make your life easier, so i'm just kind of working my way across this lower section right here, i'm just doing a baby root, tap we're not doing a full root shadow. If i was doing a full root, shadow we'd be pulling it down, but her hair is already so blended. With these highlights, i don't want to blend it out too much. She doesn't want to be too dark, so we're just doing a little tap tap right at the root you can see. I'M just literally tapping it in there and this will drag down naturally, just a little bit more. As you know, i move the hair and all that kind of stuff, so i'm just kind of working my way across just to keep it clean and fresh and then we'll start working our way up the head all right. So i finished the back section of her hair and what i like to do is i actually like to take a foil and just kind of place it over here. So when i'm working in the front, we're not accidentally squishing any color down onto this area, so we'll just kind of place, a foil - and i kind of even did that as i was working up the head. So now i'm going to move over to the side and i'm just again just barely tap tap tap the little root and i'm actually going to start at the bottom and work my way up, because that's helpful, so it doesn't drag up as you're sectioning. So i'm just shampooing her out, but i decided to put a little tiny bit of purple shampoo right around her hairline. We did not tone this and we actually didn't root shadow it either. So i just wanted to kind of tone it slightly a bit with purple shampoo, but she didn't need a toner because her ends. I didn't want them to grab at all. So just a quick, quick, little purple shampoo and we're good to go so we're going to rinse her out we're going to do a deep conditioning treatment on her because her hair's a little dry um just from stuff that she had been doing before and then we'll Show you what the results are all right, and here is our final result. Oh my gosh, i love how it turned out, it's so beautiful, so blended, and this is going to be something that grows out so much nicer for her. Definitely a lot more lower maintenance, and i just love it so much more dimension. You guys can see that coming in and out that depth that she has now just so fun. I'M excited for you guys to try out this technique. It'S one of my favorite techniques for transitioning somebody from platinum all the way to a multi-dimensional blonde. So let me know what you think. Thank you so much for watching. I hope you enjoyed this color transformation. I had so much fun making it and, to be honest, i love how it turned out. I think that it suits her so beautifully and i think it's something that's going to be a lot lower maintenance for her. So i hope that you learned something new. I hope that you try out this technique, whether it's on one of your clients, maybe it's a model that you bring into the salon, and maybe you just take bits and pieces from it. Maybe it's some of the formula, some of the root shadow techniques that i was talking about, or maybe it's even just the highlighting technique. So i hope that you learned something today and i hope that you try it out in the salon soon. As always, if you haven't come on over to instagram and said hello, please come on over to instagram, say hi. Send me a dm. I would love to hear from you and i'd love to hear what your favorite part about this video was so come on over, say hi. Send me a dm. I respond to all of my messages, or at least i try to, and i would love to chat with you and if you are still watching this video and you have not hit the subscribe button, hit the subscribe button right now, you're not going to want to Miss out on any of my videos, i share a video every single week, whether it's on how to grow your business as a hair stylist or how to do one of these fun techniques that you can use in the salon so hit the subscribe button and make Sure that you're tuning in to my videos right when i drop them, because i want to make sure that you're one of the first people to see them alright guys. Thank you so much for watching and i'll see you next time.