Easy Trend Alert! Contrasting Money Piece With Dark Roots | Blending Money Piece | Leaving Dimension

Hey guys for today's video we're going to be doing a high contrast, money piece while preserving her depth and dimension throughout the rest of her hair, so to see how we go about doing this service, keep watching. You can follow me on instagram at christy at the cottage all right guys. Here'S my clients before really quickly we're gon na do a trim before we get into the service, but right now we're gon na go in the back and talk about what we're gon na. Do today, hey guys, so i'm just getting ready for my color that i'm gon na do today. I'M super excited, so i haven't done my client's hair for, like it's been a year and a half, so she has a lot of grow out which actually works. Really great for what we're doing, because she wants to do like that really trendy like brighter piece here and then maybe some like brighter pieces through, like the underneath um, so she's really liking. That high contrast look so today we're going to do like our hairline foils. Give her a nice bold money piece but blend it into the root, so it doesn't grow out too heavy, and then we're also going to go through and add some darker through the ends of her hair. Just to like give her more contrast, um, she really likes the ashier tone, so her hair is very like gray right now, with the overtone shampoo that she uses so we're gon na try to lift through some of those areas and see how light we can get It um we're also gon na add some facial framing her hair is very long right now, so we're gon na do a quick, little snip, maybe like four inches or something she likes it more one length um so doing that little snip plus, like the facial framing Layering is what we're gon na do so that's the service today. I don't think this will take very long. I mean i know. I say that all the time and then it ends up being like five hours, but i just don't think that's gon na happen today. So i'm super excited for the super she's she's such a little cutie, so um, i'm just excited for like the after pictures and how they're gon na look. So, let's get on with the service i'm going to use schwarzkopf on me with 20 volume and olaplex. Her natural hair is probably like a level four, so we're gon na make sure to take like really thin slices. However, we're staying mostly around the face where it's a little bit more fine, so it should look pretty good, so um, that's what we're going to do today and here's the lightener we're using schwarzkopf blimey with 20 volume and olaplex all right my clients before again those Ends are pretty scraggly, so we're gon na start with doing like a good trim. She also said she wanted to cut a lot of facial framing. So that's where we're going to start the service off is make sure that we're going to do the haircut first. You always want to make sure you do the haircut first before you do a balayage, because you know what, if you do all the blonde and then you cut it off above where you did the balayage, and now you lost all your blonde that you worked hard For so make sure, if you're doing like a drastic change that you always go through and just do like a rough cut to start the service off and then um, just even it out and double check your work and everything after the color is done. So we're just gon na go through. I was asking her if that's where she liked the length to be at so we're gon na go through and just slide cut and blend her facial framing all the way down don't ever grab like. I try to start the facial framing and not go beyond like the back of the ear, or else they might feel like their hair is too short, so we're just slide cutting down and um, making sure this blends in with the back, but not going really much Further back beyond behind her ear for her facial framing sections all right, the reason why not to go much further back behind like the front quadrants behind the ear when you're doing facial framing when i was in beauty school, this girl had hair down to her butt. It was all one length and um the instructor ended up doing layers. He pulled all of her hair like straight back down the center and pulled all of her hair forward and did very blunt, very heavy facial framing when her hair was pulled back behind her shoulders and, like the front section, was falling forward. It was like sitting at her shoulders and maybe a little bit below that, because he did such severe layers and brought it back um all the way behind her ear like to the back section of her head. So when all of her hair was like pulled back, it looked like she had nothing left in the front and so never really go back behind the ear. Just be very, very cautious of that, because you could take off a lot of that length in the front. If you're, not careful - and i mean if somebody wants like a very deep v-cut - that's different - which is essentially what that gal ended up having. But it's not what she wanted and she was literally crying so just be careful when you're doing like facial framing to um. Just slide cut a little bit and you can always do a little bit heavier if they want it heavier, but just start a little bit softer and then go heavier over time if they feel like they want a little bit more. But that's just something i learned and that i will always stand by that to not go back behind the ear to preserve the length in the front. He was okay really quickly. Does that facial framing layering, look okay to you! Yes, and then does this like short pieces in there like? Does that look good to you? Okay, all right! So now we're just finishing off the haircut and taking probably like three and a half inches off the length and her hair felt so much better. So now we're gon na move into the color part of the service. She wanted it to blend really nicely, so we are gon na start off and do these hairline foils. That way, this will give her the brightness like around the face. But again these foils grow out really nice and subtle: they're, not like too heavy. So just some really fine weaves and we have that just a smaller piece, um kind of red on her hairline of her natural, so that will help it grow out a little bit softer too, because this foil is not like the first foil like directly right on Her hairline there's a little bit of a subsection of her natural before we start doing this foiling so that will help blend, as this grows out when she pulls her hair back. So we're just gon na do like three of these foils on the side and then repeat on this other section. Do all right now that we're on to this side we're just going to repeat the same thing in this section, and i want to talk about her color. So she wants it. High contrast - and i was kind of thinking - you know when somebody likes having blonde hair and then they pull their hair forward. Um that, like dark, underneath part, makes them feel really really dark, and they usually want to brighten that up. So i was fully prepared to like really heavy um underneath hairline foils, but she actually said that she really liked having that darker underneath because it made that front brighter blonde stand out a little bit more. So keep that in mind, if somebody really wants to do like a really bright money piece and have like the really high contrast against the dark that might be something to remember, is to leave the dark underneath like leave it alone. I feel like when somebody comes in and they want to do blonde and have brightness like sometimes we over foil, we overwork and feel like. We need to do more, and that's just really not. The case like especially like high contrast, is coming back like it's definitely not like chunky. Foils like it was in the early 2000s, not the 90s, the early 2000s um. We did not have chunky foils in the 90s. Okay, i would know i was doing hair when it like became popular like in early 2004. 2005. I think, is when it was like at its biggest peak, so um anyways that just like gets under my skin. When i see that, but i i digress, i'm sorry. So make sure if somebody really likes the high contrast like leave that depth and that darker area alone, don't overfoil you'll see as the service goes on, like i really barely touched that underneath part some of the pictures that she was showing me it was like um Lots of dark, but you could definitely see like just really bright, like ribbons through the hair. So that's what our goal is today, so i'm gon na really try to keep it light through the back section and make sure that i'm not touching any of that, like that hair, that's falling underneath right now! I'M making sure that i'm not gon na touch that so that went away when it like pulls forward. She has all that nice dark and then the blonde will lay on top of that making it stand out a little bit brighter. So now we're gon na go through and do her money piece and again she wants it nice and bright, but she wants it to blend a little bit softer into her roots, so we're gon na weave it back comb it and just kind of feather up into Her root area, so we are gon na, go a little bit higher, but we're not going directly up to the scalp, so we're just gon na go all the way through the ends of the hair and then you'll see me just kind of feather in that. Like top inch into her roots, so she's gon na be nice and bright all the way up, but she's, just not necessarily going super high up into the scalp. So we're just gon na do a few of these foils, where we're going to do the same, weave back comb and then i'll. Take like a thicker section, pull it all the way forward and then back comb. It weave it and then that's going to create like a softer blend um through, like the sides of her hair. So she does. She wants it to be like nice and bright of a money piece, but you know you say you see some people that just have like it's super chunky and super strappy, and it's almost so solid that it that's like not what she wants. So i'm making sure to do this like a little bit more blended and softer. So that's definitely something that you want to talk to your client about there's so many different types of money pieces there's some where, like you know where it hits maybe around the eyebrow. Maybe they want it like super bright and solid. Maybe they want it more blended, so make sure you have that conversation with your client? How do they want their money piece to grow out? Do they do they care? If it's like a super harsh line or do they want it a little bit softer if they don't care, then like stack in like three slices back to back, to make it really really bright and really stand out um. But if they do care, then maybe do like really soft weave back comb it just to soften it up a little bit so make sure you have that conversation with your client on all the different types of money pieces that they like and then also let them Know um you're, gon na notice the girl and feel it a little bit more, probably like in a month and a half or so is that going to bother you and then just you know, base your work off of what they have to say all right. So here you can see i'm taking a little bit thicker of a section weaving it so that way she has her natural to help it blend back, combing it and i'm pulling it all forward over directing it forward. So that way, it's just gon na create like a really soft blend, where it just feathers back a little bit where the brightness is and then directly off of the sides of this piece right here that i'm doing i'm gon na go through underneath, where her hair Parts and do another section, um, just one more foil, underneath that way it helps it blend um. So it's not just like this one strap of like not like a strap because we're blending it. But i don't want her to have just this like money piece and then it doesn't blend through the sides of her hair. So when i go through and do the underneath foil and i'm just doing the one on either side, that's gon na help. It blend a little bit more and just be a little bit softer all right. So this weave that i'm doing right here, you can see where her hair parts and it's going directly underneath diagonal back on the side of where her hair parts um just right behind to the side of that money, piece that we were doing so. This is just gon na help blend her hair from the sides of her head to the money piece, and it just gives it like a nice connection. So that way she has like even brightness all the way around her hairline. All right so you'll see me, keep pulling her hair forward and seeing exactly where is her hair going to fall so you'll notice that every time i kind of go back and forth, i'm going to keep pulling her hair forward and seeing where it lays. So i'm just trying to see exactly where do i need to like paint the hair and how much of a section do i need to do? She doesn't want the blonde to go like in the top layer of like up into the rooty area. She wants it to just be like say, as if somebody just had like no facial framing at all, it's just all natural long and blonde that money piece section that you would do that would reach all the way through, like the ends of her hair, because it Was just nice and long, but because we ended up cutting all of her facial framing now i have to go through, like almost the whole side section of her hair and paint that to make sure that i have that blonde going through the whole length of her Front like facial framing pieces, so that's where i'm trying to go through and see exactly like, okay, how much hair do i need to pull forward? Where is it going to fall? How is it going to lay, and where do i need to paint this, to make sure that it's like that? It looks like it's just the facial framing part, that's um blonde and not like going too far back into the rest of her hair, where she feels like she has like a full balayage um at the toning part. I told her that i want to go back through after her hair is all like washed out and everything and then we'll go back through and add that dimension, because i realized that i'm having to take a lot of this hair and like pull it forward and Paint it where normally she just didn't, really have any layers or any facial framing then i could just work on like that front section would be the blonde and, like the actual sides of her hair, i probably wouldn't have to paint too much, but because i'm having To paint the sides a little bit more um because of the facial framing, i can't really go through yet with the dark um. So i just told her i'd rather see how it is this process. How much dark do you want to go back through and add in, and so i was waiting to do that part of the service until after all, the blonding was done to see exactly how much dark do i need. Where do i need to put it? How do i need to break this up or whatever um, and just so you know, we ended up, not doing the dark. She ended up really being happy with the hair she loved how the money piece looked and everything that was like her main focus and because she still had so much dark from her natural grow out. She felt like she didn't need to go back through and, like add any more dimension into her hair. So at this point in the service, so i'm kind of thinking that's exactly what i'm gon na do, though i'm thinking i'm gon na go through and add some more dark dimension back into her hair um. So i'm still trying to like figure out exactly where my placement is gon na, be so just know as you're watching the service, like, i thought i was gon na. Add that in there um i thought i was gon na go through and do like a slightly darker cooler blonde shade. We ended up not doing that either so um. So now that we're reaching like now, i'm pulling more hair forward because i'm afraid that where i'm stopping at right now, i was worried like maybe that is just the facial framing part. That just is like halfway down but not like extending all the way down through the ends of her facial framing. So i was like i'm just gon na do more because i'm worried that if i stop here um, this isn't gon na be like all of your facial framing and then you're gon na be like super bright, but like only halfway down your facial framing part. So i just ended up going through and painting more towards, just like the end of this section to make sure that she had like the brightness going all the way down. I hope that makes sense. I feel like it's kind of confusing, but like um, it's just hard to like try and explain it when i'm doing a voiceover versus like if i was actually doing it. I could tell you guys like what i was trying to explain so hopefully like it makes sense to you guys, so i'm pulling that hair forward now to see where is it gon na lay and how is it gon na blend, and luckily everything blended really nicely Like when we're all done - and i'm asking her like, do you want me to go back through and add any more or do you feel like that's, okay, so towards the end of my application, i did end up going through and just doing like um, a really Small soft veil over the top - and i did some like wider pieces um like with more of a subsection in between that way. I could make sure that the sides weren't just like blonde, that we had some of that brightness blending through the back section of the hair too, so um we're just gon na finish doing our application. I'Ve only got a few more pieces to do with the sides and then we'll go through and start blending through the back and just picking up some ribbons in the back underneath section of the hair too, all right so now that we're in the back, i'm just Going to take a few little fine pieces back comb and like weave them, make sure that you just have these few little bright pieces through the ends. Because i want to make sure that we have connection from the front to the back. Even though, at this point in the service, i'm thinking we're gon na go through and add some depth back in the hair. She did say that she wanted to have like some contrasting brighter pieces too. So i'm just gon na go through and paint through, mostly the ends of the hair where she was already pre-lightened and just try to brighten this up a little bit more and then that's it for like this very, very top layer. These are just some really really fine pieces and then i'm going to do a thick section directly below this and then just go kind of sporadically through the underneath and grab some like pre-existing, lighter pieces and just paint through those to brighten them up a little bit. More and then that will be it, i'm really just doing maybe like three different sections with like a heavy midsection um uh subsection in between, so that way, um she kind of just wanted it to like. You know when your hair pulls forward, how you can see like some brighter pieces showing through she definitely wanted to stay away from like having more of a overall, lighter, blended appearance, um and just give like some more like bright pieces. So that's what we're just finishing up right now and then um. She will process for like 30 minutes. So you can see here how i'm just taking like a wider section and it's more of like a piecier section. That'S what's going to create more of a contrast. How, before you could see she came in, she was really blended, really heavily blonde through, like the ends of her hair. That'S because we did like um, like the whole width of that section like underneath versus just like grabbing larger pieces and painting those. So this is gon na help create more of that contrasting blonde. That she's wanted versus like more of a blended, which is what she came in previously. So i think it just helps to like go through. Maybe take like two very wide weaves, with like a very distinct like sub section in between, and that will give you like some more high contrasting pieces versus being too blended all right. So you can see that i'm really keeping it super simple and limited in the back. Just a few little pieces for brightness through the underneath, and then i just took some really fine leaves through that top layer just to help it blend with the sides. And this is going to sit for just like 30 minutes and process, and then i will come back and check it to make sure that it's okay and also before i let it process. I went and checked through the ends of her hair, just because she has been bleached out before and i made sure that she wasn't over processing or damaging or anything so at that point after double checking her hair and making sure that it's processing, okay, um. That'S now, when she processed for 30 minutes, i'm checking it now. It lightened really nicely so um, i'm just going to let this finish sitting for you know a few minutes past this warm stage and then we will rinse her out. Okay, so my client just got done processing and we rinsed her out she's sitting at the shampoo right now with the deep conditioner in her hair, we're getting ready to tone her for her lightest blonde um. She still wants to stay nice and like ashy, but still uh bright at the same time. So because asher tones tend to deposit a little bit darker, i want to try and stay with, like maybe a little drop of level. 9 p, a mostly 10 p, a and 10 v um. Let me see if i have i'm going to add a little bit of the 10 nb, also to keep it nice and bright um to prevent it from like overtoning, though um, because we've lifted it through some other color. She does have some like warmer areas, maybe like eight, probably like a nine honestly um, but i told her that i want to start and tone for like the lightest shade and then, if it doesn't cover those warmer areas, then we'll tone down from there. So this is our first formulation for like the lightest blonde. If it ends up toning down the rest of those warmer shades, then that's great but we're just gon na start here. First, all right, you guys know. I really tried to like write out my formulation. It was just too difficult, so i did the majority of the formulation, the 10 pa 10 v equal parts. I did probably a little bit less with the 9pa and then i really just did maybe like um a few heavy drops of the warmer tone, the nb and that's because those warmer tones in there that's what the level nine was for to help kind of cool Those little pieces down, we really wanted to try and stay as bright as possible, but i knew that there was still like some more existing in the hair. She ended up really liking the way that the color was. I gave her the option like i dried her hair um just gave her a really quick rough dry and asked her like. Are you happy with the toner? I was fully prepared to like go back through add more darken through the hair hit, those slightly warmer level. Nine areas, but she was really happy with everything and ended up not wanting to go back through and do anything. She just thought everything blended so well already. She knew with the shampoo that she uses that it would touch any of those just slightly warmer pieces, and i pointed them out. I had her grab the mirror, look at it and i just said look. This is like just a slight warmth to it: um, not even bad or anything, but just because i know how cool she likes her hair. I just wanted to give her the option like we can tone this right now. If you want to - and she was like completely fine, so um, that's what adding that level 9 was for just to like cool it down a little bit more. I probably could have added a little bit more of it to the formulation, but i just didn't want to darken the blonde down too much so um and then also that nb in there to just help it prevent from overtoning, especially around the face and those brighter Ends where it's more porous and it can really grab. So that's just the way that i like to break down my formulation and try to explain it for you. I really tried to write it out. It just wasn't working um. It was too hard to try to figure out, like all the different like you know how many grams or fractions of whatever i was using so anyways, here's her hair, just rough dried. You can see the blend really good, um, still lots of contrast. The biggest part that she was concerned about was around the front of the face and just having that really big piece: that nice big, bold money, piece of brightness in the front and then making sure, like the blonde, extended all the way down through the end. So i'm glad that we did our foil the way we did where we went through and basically did from the ear forward, but hit most of the ends as we got down through, like um the lower ends of her facial framing. That way, you know, since we trimmed a lot of her facial framing off. If we didn't do all of that, then her blonde her brighter blonde would have just stopped like around her chin or whatever. So i'm glad we went through and did a heavier amount around her face than what was expected. It really helped bring that brightness like through the whole um length of her facial framing pieces so and then you'll be able to see, as i'm curling her hair, that we just ended up putting a few little pieces of brighter blonde in there. We don't want to go too heavy just enough to give it some like bright pops of blonde in there. So you'll see me kind of flipping back and forth. Well, you probably won't see me because i'm not leaving a whole bunch of footage in of styling the hair, but i'm using this paul mitchell flat iron. I really love this. I like doing a flat iron more around the face, because i, like the type of curl that i can get more than just like a curling iron, so it's a paw mitchell flat iron. I like it because i can adjust the heat on it. Um keep your heat below like 350 for blonde, especially or else you might like burn the toner out and then also the curling iron i'm using. If you watch jay-z styles here on youtube, it's her curling iron. I like it because again you can adjust the temperature, but also um, it's a longer barrel. So i love that for like curls for extensions or longer hair, whatever it's like one of my go-to styling tools now and then i'm using the kendra hairspray, which um it's a little bit stronger of a hold. So i just wanted to break all that stuff down for you. Thank you, yeah! That'S exactly all right! So here's her before again a good practically two years of grow out super rooty and here's the after much brighter around the face, but still blended into her roots. So that way, if she wants to go another year and a half you know she's not going to, but if she wants to go a little bit longer, her grow out won't be as harsh here's the back again and i'm definitely glad we snipped a couple inches Off her hair felt so much better and we're still able to keep a lot of length, but it just looks so much healthier and here is the after, and she really loves how bright and bold that front money piece is and with her all the roots that She has that natural contrast just really helped with the style that she was wanting, because we ended up not even having to put any of that dark back into her hair, and you can see through the ends. She has a lot of contrast still so yeah. She was really happy this took about maybe four hours and the total cost was 255. So thank you guys so much for watching. I hope you like this video and don't forget to like and subscribe