Ombré | Honey Blonde | Foilayage Application

OMBRÉ | Honey Blonde | Foilayage Application

foilayage techniques

honey blonde hair color

fall hair colors

First time client coming in, wanting a soft blonde ombré.

Foilayage techniques plus formulation.

Using Schwarzkopf BlondeMe with olaplex for lightening.

Toning formulation included.

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Follow me on Instagram @kristi.at.the.cottage

Hey guys for today's video we're going to be doing a really soft natural honey blonde ombre, if you guys would like to you, can follow me on instagram at christy at the cottage okay, so my client that i'm doing right now, um she kind of has like A light brown probably like a level six hair color. Naturally, it's really pretty um, and then she wants to kind of do like a golden ombre color. So she wants it to be like where her hair falls like not right up to her hairline but just kind of more like have the blonde go kind of like this and then through the ends. So we're gon na mix for that right now and then the sham shampoo, the products that i'm using are schwarzkopf blonde me with 20 volume and olaplex. So here's her hair when she came in you can see that she kind of has a little bit of a soft lightning towards the ends and she did color her hair a few months ago. So there is a slight banding and also a chance that we might have some brassiness that's going to be hard to lift through, but luckily we're doing a little bit more of golden tones. So hopefully, whatever warmth that we can't break through, will just help blend with the color that we want to achieve and to start her hair, i'm not going to be doing any foiling directly on her hairline. So i'm just going to be doing a very fine weave directly on her forehead and we're going to back comb it and feather up really softly, and this will give us probably like an inch to an inch and a half where her hair starts lightning through her Ends so that way, this will give her plenty of room to grow out without feel like she's gon na have like a harsh line or anything because we're not going directly up to the scalp. So that way this will be nice and low maintenance for her. So i just did two zigzagged weaves right on her hairline, nothing too strong, that's gon na be too bright or anything. We still want to be pretty natural and then directly, where she parts her hair. I'M going to kind of zigzag right on her part that way it will ensure that wherever her hair falls, it will have a nice even brightness. I don't want to foil straight down the center of her hairline and then, if her hair falls a little bit over to one side or the other, then all the brightness might fall onto one side of the head. So i always think it's a good idea to do a zigzag down the part and that way whether the hair falls. They'Ll have an even amount of brightness to start her foils. I'M just doing my diagonal sections up the side of her head. I'Ve really loved doing my balayage sectioning. This way, it really stops me from like doing too many different sections and like wasting so much time, just doing like small little sections and, like literally, like 10 foil sections up the side of the head. I really feel like this has been so much better for me and been such a time saver. So i know i've said it before in my other videos, but i highly recommend just doing diagonal sectioning if you haven't tried it and a lot of you guys have said that you have really enjoyed doing your balayage work this way. So for me, i really have liked doing it this way, so i just feel like it creates such a nice blend. I do like a zigzag diagonal back parting and then i really only end up having to do maybe like three or four like sections up the side and then whatever detail work. I want to do like off the part, so it definitely makes a big difference as far as saving time so right now, as i'm working up either side of her head. I'M doing these foils relatively close to her scalp, probably like an inch and a half to two inches off of her scalp. That way, we keep the brightness pretty close to the inner area of her hair and then once i have those sections, those three or four foils that i'm doing up the side of the head that are closer to the scalp area. Then i'm gon na go through the section of all of those foils that i just did and i'm gon na go through and paint more like at the mid section of the hair through the ends that way, it will help create a nice even blend from, like A darker root to a little bit more of a softer blend just beyond the roots and then even more so, blending down to brighter ends and i've always liked doing it. This way i feel like it will help create a really nice soft brightness, but it will still give them lots of dimension because we're still weaving out some of their natural and leaving some of the sections with her natural hair in it. But she'll still definitely feel nice and bright as her hair like fades from the roots to the mid shaft to the ends. So once i have all of her foils for the most part from the bottom section of the sides of her head, i'm going to go through now and do the mid section to the ends and then once i finish that part of it, i'm going to continue Working up through the top section of the head now that i've finished the sides of the head and we're kind of towards the top section, i'm going to try and figure out how i want the brightness to fall. I definitely don't want any of the balayage pieces or much of the blonde to be directly right, where her part is because she does want it to be low maintenance. And she does want to be nice and blended from root to ends. But she doesn't necessarily want to see a lot of blonde highlights directly on the top part of her hair. So i figured that the best way to go about this is to go like right, where her part is and right, like kind of right now at the temples before i get to her part, i want to make sure that i'm connecting from where her bangs are, And on this corner section of her forehead and doing a heavy blonding piece here, because this again is going to preserve the brightness that she's wanting. But it's going to fall more underneath of her hair. So she is going to have that brightness. But since it's underneath, it's not going to be too in your face too much of a pop of blonde, her natural hair is going to fall on top of it. So that way it will kind of tone it down. But when she has movement in her hair and when she curls her hair or styles, it it's going to show from underneath and then she's going to really like how that brightness falls and now we're just repeating that on the same side over here, just doing a Zigzag weave and then blending from being higher towards the front of her face and then foiling it to be a little bit more of a diagonal blend down towards the back section of her head and that will kind of create it to be brighter towards the face. And then, as we get to the back part of the head, it will kind of be a little bit darker towards the crown. So i feel, like that's kind of a tip is, if you i mean, maybe it's new to me because, like i just realized that it worked out for me so, but maybe you guys have done it. This whole time is, if you're doing a balayage, and you want to make sure that it kind of is going to be brighter around the face. Pull the section towards the face and you can you can hold the hold it straight to you, but just pull it more towards the front of the face and that will create enough drag to where you can do it higher at the front. But then it will fall a little bit lower in the back and then when the hair naturally falls down, it will kind of create that depth towards the back section of that panel that you're painting - and i don't know - i just realized that that's probably like not Brand new information to anybody else, but i really felt like it was a saver for me because i felt like i didn't - have to try too hard on trying to make sure that i was painting diagonally down. I felt like i could paint straight across, but because it was having like a little bit of a drag towards the front of the face. It just naturally created that soft diagonal. For me towards the back section of that hair. I don't know if i'm making sense anyways. If you already know this, then just tell me to shut up, but if you don't know it then try it out and hopefully you'll like it. Okay, now we're at the very top part of her hair, and i am back combing extremely heavily, because i want to make sure that we have such a good blend. I don't want her to feel like she has a heavy blonding like right on the top of her hair. I want to make sure that there's no lines i want to make sure that it feathers really nicely so i'm back combing like almost three times the amount as what i normally do just to be safe and cautious that when her hair lays down, she doesn't feel Like it's, this huge amount of blonde and i'm not taking it up very high because again she wants it to have more of a natural rudy look and then softly blending towards more of a blonde through the ends. So i'm doing it like probably a couple inches away from her scalp and then i'm diagonally, the hair again down towards the crown area, but i'm doing some high points and low points just to be safe, that it blends really nicely. So once we finish this on the other side, then we will move towards the back section, but i'm honestly just going to be doing a few panels through the back and doing enough of her natural hair will be falling out. That way, she still feels like she has a lot of dimension, but we are doing it a little bit heavier and fuller in the front that way, she feels more blonde in that area, but still a little bit of her natural just for some dimension and for A better blend, so we're going to finish this and then work in the back. Do one thing that i've been asked before is: am i surface painting, or am i saturating all the way through the hair and right at the top of the area where i'm painting right in there, where it starts to feather, is where i just do more surface Painting but then you can see right here where the mid shaft is through the ends. I usually do full saturation of bleach, just because one thing with balayage generally is that it creates a lot of warmth and my clients, don't necessarily want a lot of warmth or brassiness, and so i've found that's. Why i always do foil work is because it will insulate the hair and it creates enough heat that we usually have minimal, brassiness or minimal warmth, just because i always do full saturation and because i use foils. So if you feel personally, like you're having a hard time with your balayage in getting too much warmth or too much brassiness in your colors or your blondes or whatever services that you have, then maybe try insulating your balayage and see if that works, whether it's open Air balayage, but then maybe you lay some plastic over the top of it or if you use foils, try other options out and see if that improves the color just because it's always gon na have a little bit of warmth to it. But if you feel like it's an excessive amount of brassiness, then just try to insulate a little bit and shoot it with some heat if you're able to not under the dryer, but just with like the blow dryer for a few minutes and see. If that helps boost the blonde up a little bit or if you feel like it's kind of stopped processing and stuck at a brassy stage, then remix some 30 volume just go through and paint it really fast, and that should help burst it through that brassiness and Get to a brighter blonde okay, my client that i'm doing right now is pre-toning at the shampoo bowl with vanilla, no yellow shampoo um. She had a pre-existing color on her hair. It blended pretty good with her natural color um, but it's kind of preventing some of the blonde pieces to go as blonde as other areas. Oh, my god, i thought that was like my hair, like sticking straight out, um anyways um, so i asked her if she wants to tone a little bit darker. She wants like a cooler blonde, so i asked her if she wants to tone down to have a nice even cooler tone just because some of the areas are still a little bit warmer than you know what we want it to be, or does she want to Tone the brighter one pieces and be as cool as we can for the brighter one, and so she said try to keep the um brighter blonde pieces and tone those down, and hopefully it will all blend - and i just told her honestly you're my last client. So why don't we try toning for the brighter blonde pieces to cool it down and see how it looks and if we need to go back through and tone with a darker toner, then that's an option that we can do too. So right now we're going to mix to tone her brighter blonde and i'm going to be using paul mitchell because i feel, like you know, if i'm able to tone for a brighter blonde, i feel like that. Color turns out really pretty with the palmetto toners um. So right now, this is what we're going to be mixing with okay, so we're using some cooler tones, but the goal is to not necessarily be super cool. She just wants to be brighter, but not brassy, so we're going to be using the majority of the level 10s and then just a little bit of the level 9. That way it kind of helps tone down any of those darker warmer pieces that we have. So that's why i'm mixing the way that i'm mixing - and i know a lot of people are interested in how i style my clients here. So sometimes i like to throw a few of these little clips in here, just if you guys are interested. So this is how i style my clients here just using my flat iron and i curl all the way away from their hair towards the back center and then once we're done, i will use my fingers and my comb and comb it out so that it all Blends nicely together and also my client, is so cute, but right here look the second she's turned enough to look at herself in the mirror. She will always stare at herself, so i have to constantly keep turning the chair just far enough so that she can't keep looking back, but i swear the second that she has the chance to look over her shoulder. She immediately starts looking at herself and it makes it so hard to style her hair, but i mean hey she's, a cute girl, but it would just kind of make the service a little bit more difficult, but i enjoyed having her in my chair. She was super cute and friendly and everything and loved her hair, so um, you know it's always fun to have cute clients in your chair. Oh my goodness, i love this. I love this so much. Thank you! So much yeah. You can look that up with the mask off if you want yeah it blends, so good, yeah, no and like like the difference in like the blondes and stuff. Like i love like, i think it's like perfect and like and like especially like this front piece like yeah, i could like literally like nitpick this for hours, but like not for like bathing suits. I love. I love it. Oh good, here's her before again just kind of drab and then, as you saw her after just blends, really nicely into her roots. She definitely has her darker roots and it just blends really softly, and this will be perfect because she'll be able to go to school or work or whatever. If we shut down again because of stupid coronavirus, she won't have to worry about having to get into the salon if it's gon na be a while. So thank you guys so much for watching, don't forget to like and subscribe.

Alli McCoy: But I love the outcome too!! So pretty!!

Tiziana Paonessa: I think we are always learning new things. So don’t worry if it might be new to you. Your teach us great ideas.

Alli McCoy: She’s got such a pretty toned hair color naturally !!

Rachelle Walters: Love this honey blonde ombre color!

Nathan Todorov: You are a pleasure to fallow and watch, keep doing what you doing, it's amazing job, I learned a lot from you. God Bless ♥️

M. Skinner: Pretty! It's that FALL 2020 sunkissed hair!!

paul Davies: Hi Kristi Fabulous outcome as always your just the Best and too have Plenty of head twisters usually as I'm just about to take a section weaved and and.... WOW full on head twist feel my pain take care and thank you x

Zaki Ta: Yaaay you're like a hair magician.

Andelina Gonzalez: so the hair that was left out did you go over with bleach or just left it alone?

TousledbyJess: How do you like the paul mitchell demi line? I want to switch to a color brand that is more natural/less toxic.

LauraKat87: This looks like chaos to me. I know it makes sense to you and works for you but to me the way you’re working on this one is chaotic and stressful . Beautiful result!

Amy Jackman: I was really disheartening the other day second time doing a foliage and I backcomed but there was still a harsh line any advice xx

Melissa Lewis: did you tone the whole head with the demi PM? it looks beautiful

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