How To Choose The Correct Lace For Wigs

If you choose the right lace, it will blend to the skin. Right and it doesn't have to be HD.. No, what you'll find with HD. It is so delicate that even when it comes to ventilating on the bath can stretch so easily. ( rap music, ), ♪, Breslin, Breslin, Breslin, ♪ ♪, Author and the speaker, ♪ ♪ Master stylist, using every gift, ♪ ♪. I got the teacher ♪ ♪ Just want to reach her ♪ ♪ With life-changing motivation, ♪ ♪. This is key. ♪ ♪! You can look wealthy ♪ ♪, But know nobody greater as he ♪ ♪ It's Marquetta B, ♪ ♪, Breslin, Breslin, ♪, Hey it's Marquetta Breslin! Here with Waqqas Sheikh. Hi., We are getting ready to do a video explaining to you how to choose the right lace for wigs and then we're gon na talk about when you should be using HD lace. Such a massive subject. Yes. HD lace. Yes. People are obsessed.. I know - and I was talking to you earlier and was saying they're obsessed about what should've been used in the first place, which is really film lace. It'S not HD lace.! So that's neither here nor there we'll get there. Waqqas. What do we have here? Okay? So we've got about five little samples of lace. Yes.. If I start from the left work towards the right., So we've got some 40 denier, here. Yes., Which has been ordered from Atelier Bassi.. I say: Atelier Bassi, you say: Atelier Bassi, you probably say it right. I'Ll, probably jack, it up., You probably say it right who knows: ( laughing ). So let's explain what a denier is., Okay, so denier wise! It works the same as tights in the UK same as here., So the lower the number, the more delicate it is.. Exactly So, we've got 15 denier: 20. 30, 40 denier.. As a wig maker, I would tend to use 40 denier more for theater and 20 denier for film, because it's finer., That's a big difference.. Why would you use the heavier denier for theater Theater, it's everyday use.! So it's blocked up taken off put on taken off.. We want the lace to be quite sturdy., So if you do get like a lace, sample card have a feel of the lace., It is important how it feels. There are some other versions out there. It blends. Quite well. The color of it's slightly peachy., But that's to accommodate different kind of skin tones, obviously not for us. ( laughing ) A little bit too peachy.. But if I was doing a client who wanted a private wig, I would use 40 denier for the back and then maybe 30 for the front. Yeah. And this is also too you guys can't feel it. But it's a little thick., But still the key thing that you said is every day use., Yes, every day use.. So this isn't thick like when you order a wig from a manufacturer thick.. This is just based on what we're used to using, which is the real materials.. It is a little bit more sturdy, but it still blends very well.. It blends really well. Really really well., So this 40 denier will be used as a base - lace right Yeah.. So in the back., So if we talk about base lace - which I think is this one here in the UK - we call it ( mumbles ), but you can use it for base lace back lace.. The thickness is slightly thicker than that one.. Yes, it is.. There'S a bit more stretch on this one., However, there's more hold, there's more give.. So if you can use this or you can use that as your base lace completely your choice., This is slightly thicker, but the knots will hold better. The bars won't stretch and it will last a long, time. Yes.. Now something .... Oh thank you. Yay., My lace book.. So how do you say it? I say: Atelier Bassi. Yep. Bassi. ( laughing ), Who knows. We'll have to ask Mr. Bassi himself. Mr. Bassi.. His company is amazing but look.. This is oh, my gosh. I cannot believe he found this.. I was just telling you. It walked away. Amazing.. This is incredible because you get to feel the different types of lace.. Should we flick it over so they can see. Yes, let's flip it over. To me to you.. As you can see, is this coated lace Yeah? It has coated thermal all kinds of .... Have you ever worked with thermal lace, [ Waqqas ] I've never worked with thermal lace.. I want to so bad.. I haven't worked with it. Either yet. We're going to give it a go. Yeah we should.. Let'S give it a go., As you can see from here, and what I was saying to Marquetta before was there is so much lace. You get confused of what to use when not to use it. When would you use this type of lace? When would you use that type of lace? It'S good that you can see various colors, the color of everyone's skin tone., But it's really good because you can have a feel. Now this is HD lace, which everyone likes to use.. You'Ve got different types of lace and it is really good to have a feel to make sure you're comfortable with what you're using and it's right for your clientele. Right.. Also, it tells you, in this lace, sample booklet kind of what it's used. For. So you'll see film HD thermal. Thermal lace is molded with heat., It's hot steam is what thermal lace is molded with., And then you have all these different types of lace over here. These. And then you have the honey cone ones over here. And you even Have the very very stretchy material on the back., The good thing I like about this lace card? If you look towards the left hand, side towards Marquetta's hand, can you see the little key So you've got the red star, you've got the circle and then you've got the hollow circle.. So it just tells you which one's which.. So what you can use as front lace and we'll discuss this in a moment about HD lace and what to use as your front lace.. But this gives you a guide. What you can use as front lace. Looks like there are hollow circles there.. So it is a really good sample card and I think every wig maker should have one.. Oh you have to have one. Definitely have one. Yeah.. He has one as well for galloon.. Do you use galloon? Ever I say: galloon galloon., ( laughing ), that's the American country girl.. So when I'm wig making, I never use a galloon., I don't either.. I just make sure that the front lace is quite long so when I do tuck it in it holds., But obviously, when it comes to theater and TV, then we'll cut it shorter and just make sure that the galloon's on. There you go.. So what do we have here? Which one is this Okay.? So this is --? Well, actually that one is in here.. It is indeed.. Yes, it is.. It is hexagon shaped., It is stretchier., So you can use it as back lace.. I would say this would be really good for wefted work. Yes.. So if you're kind of doing some weft work, it's got the ability to have a bit of a stretch, so it can kind of mold towards the head. The bar or the holes are bigger. So you do have to be careful on what you are creating. Now you called that the bar. The holes. Got it. The holes and then the bars.. I call it the line and the bar. Oh yeah, okay, the lines. Yeah., The bar.. I call it a bar., So if you look at it, obviously there is more space, so you wouldn't want to do fine work on this because you aren't going to see the whole lace, whereas if you are doing something thicker density wise, this probably would work.. This would be really good for wefts too.. You said that earlier. I haven't used this particular lace for anything other than sending it to my students for practice., But I'm dying to make a foundation out of this just to see how it is.. That'S the best thing to do when you're working with different types of materials and stuff., You have to see how well you work with different types of materials. So it's great to get a few pieces and practice with them.. It'S all trial and error. Trial and error. Trial and error.. That is the name of this wig making game. ( laughing ). Now we dropped a piece of lace over there. I think on the floor or something.. I think it's on that side. We did indeed.. We did indeed., Okay, we're back., So this I'd say similar to your back lace or your base. Lace.. However, it's much thicker and again the holes and the bars are bigger., I'm almost positive and I'm about to confirm that this is thermic formable and that's why I bought that.. First, I didn't yep. ( mumbles ). Yes, this is thermic formable and we actually have a machine that we can use this with.. We can indeed.. Yes, we can and we will. That's a whole nother video. Okay. ( laughing ), We'll be back for this one. Yes.. I want to explain more on this one. Yes. Yeah Yeah. Okay., That one's done., So the last one which is .... I have a massive gripe about this. Me. Too. People are obsessed with HD lace. Yes. Frontals closures, making sure that it blends to the skin.. As long as you choose the right lace, it will blend to the skin. Right and it doesn't have to be HD. No.. What you find with HD is so delicate that even when it comes to ventilating on the bath can stretch so easily, even it's it single hair.. If your tension's too tight this is not every day use lace., Let's say that one more time.! This is not every day use lace. What most people are getting when they're ordering HD lace is film lace., They are selling it as HD lace, but that is not what HD lace is. There's a particular way that you are to use this lace, which is doubling It. Doubling it. So when it comes to theater --, not theater, sorry, wigs for film and TV, what we would do for the top is double it. So when it is (, mumbles, ), it's doubled and then the first kind of half a centimeter to centimeter. It'S single layered, ventilated and it would be cut off just to make sure that the integrity of the lace is kept. Yes. And then still it's fragile. Still fragile. Completely fragile.. So what you've got to think about is, if you're, trying to make a wig for every day use to put this on and off and on and off. This is not going to last. [ Marquetta, ] Nope., So 30 denier 40 denier is completely fine.. The edges do blend., They do blend. Very nicely. Exactly.. So the obsession with this lace - I don't know where it's come from ( laughing ), but it's not for every day, use., No, not for every day use. And it's expensive.. Yes, it is.. But you know one of the things that I always say is if they just get that lace, booklet feel it out, put it up against your skin. You will find that probably 90 % of the time you'll be ordering film lace and not this HD lace.. But if you're an amazing ventilator and want to use this for every day, use. Have at it. Go for it. Good luck. ( laughing ). No, this is still a very nice lace.. This is the lace that I actually carry on my website and it will look nice, but you just have to understand the materials that you're working with and you have to know what it will do and what it won't do.. Now you have a very interesting approach to using this. You spray hair spray on it.. So if I am ventilating on this type of lace - and it does stretch quite easily so for a temporary hold I'll, just spray it with some hair spray and then let it dry and it will temporarily -- The key is temporarily. And hold it's shape.. But it's still fragile. Yeah. Still very fragile., But it looks amazing but is not made for everyday use., That's important to understand., So the key take aways for this video is number one. You need to get that lace card from Atelier Bassi. Fischbach & Miller also has one but the one --, There's loads.. Anyone that sells lace should give you a sample. Card. Yeah. There'S other companies that sell lace, too., There's the wig department., There's the wig department in the UK and they do ship worldwide., There's Bhambri Postish. They also ship worldwide., There's another lady Jagazi Naturals. Yes.. You can find her on social media and the website.. She sells. Lace. She's got her own version of a cradles.. She'S got a lot of amazing things. They've all got amazing, things. Yeah, all of them do. And then there's Fischbach & Miller. There'S Atelier Bassi. There's a ton of .... Well, I guess not a ton, but for us it's a ton, because the wig industry is so small but be sure to order a lace sample card, feel the lace put it up against your skin ventilate with it. So you can see what you like to use and what you're comfortable with using. All right. One little tip that I will give you, when you are buying lace. Just make sure when you are looking at the gray, that it's a hexagon and not a square. Say that again. Now, why Tell them why.? So when it comes to your hexagons, the directions are ventilating, so you can go up down diagonal to the right or to the left.. If it's a square, you've only got four directions. Exactly., There's no way of shifting angles. No and it's going to look boxy and it's not going to look right because our hair doesn't grow in four directions. It grows in multiple directions., The key when you're, making wigs or lace wigs. Rather, you want to trick the eye. You don't want somebody to say. Oh, I love your wig.. You want somebody to say: oh, your hair is beautiful., So the best way to achieve that is working with the proper materials starting with lace. So make sure those holes are hexagons, not squares or triangles. I'Ve seen some -- I've never seen a triangle. I've seen some of everything show up at my events, I'm telling you. One person showed up with some .... I know this company sold it as lace, but they had to have gotten it out of Walmart.. Oh, my god., It was like a you know the material to make like stockings or tole, but it wasn't like it was not lace, but they sold it to this person as a .... She paid $ 50 for it, and I know for a fact. I could've gone to Walmart and got a whole yard for a dollar. Yeah. Research is key., Research is key. If you're ever in doubt ask another wig maker and they will help you out. Yes., All right guys.. We want to thank you so much for watching this. Video and we'll talk to you: soon. Bye., (, upbeat music, ),