Detailed | How To Make A Lace Closure Wig On A Sewing Machine

Today, I will be showing you all how to make a custom leg on a sewing machine if you're interested in learning, then please stay tuned, okay, everyone! So I'm just going to start out by showing you all the supplies that you're going to need. You will need quite a few things, so I'm just gon na show you one by one, so you will need a canvas head. The canvas heads come in differing circumference -- is so if you're making it for yourself or for your client you're, going to need the appropriate canvas head being that I'm making it for myself I'll be using a 22 inch. I have a 23, I have 24 yeah. They go, I think, I've seen as low as 18 or 19 for really small heads and like 25 for larger heads, so I have the 22. You actually need some type of comb or brush refreshing to hear out of the way of the closure. You also need some scissors you'll need some type of cap that you'll be sewing onto. I have different kinds of caps, depending on what my client, once being that I'm making this unit for myself I'll be using a mesh dome cap. You can get this at your local beauty, supply store or you can just order it on Amazon and they do come in two sizes, extra, large and regular I'll be using extra-large, because I don't want it to fit too snug. I want it enough, but I don't want to have a headache, so I go for the extra-large. You'Ll also need some kind of wig band that you'll put on to the unit once you're done and that'll just help with additional security. I have different kinds again, it depends on what my client wants. I haven't decided yet what I'm going to use for myself, but that won't be until the end anyways I'll, also be using some type of marker. You can have like a metallic marker, and this is what you'll use to draw your guidelines on to get the actual unit I'll be using a wax pencil, a sharpie brand. I got this on Amazon. It'S very important that you have a measuring tape. Measuring tape will ensure that your unit has a custom fit that matches either your head measurements or the client or person you're making the wig, for you also need t, pin ste pins are very important. This will help you to block your measurements onto your wig you'll. Also need weaving needles which will be used for sewing down your closure or a frontal I'll be doing a closure unit. You'Ll also want to have some type of rubber band or scrunchie, or even some type of Clips, just to get your hair out of the way. You'Re sewing down the closure or the front row. You can also optionally have a spray bottle. I use a spray bottle to get the hair out of the way of the closure and a frontal when I'm sewing that down another optional thing to have, but I highly recommend it, especially if you're new to the sewing machine is the seam ripper. This will save your life when you use a seam ripper. Let'S say you accidentally make a mistake: when you're sewing, you can easily cut the left off of the we cap without ruining the cap, so I would recommend having this some type of nylon thread. Well, it doesn't have to be nylon, but I use nylon for sewing down the wig. Okay, also optional, our wig combs. I only use these if they're requested by a client - I don't use them on myself. You'Ll also need obviously some hair and a closure or Tonto. Today, I'll be using three bundles of hair and I'll be using a five by five closure. Sorry about that, my memory card ran out of memory, but anyways. I only had one last thing, which is the star of the show a sewing machine. Obviously, you can really use any type of sewing machine. I happen to use the singer classic. I haven't had any issues with it. That'S what I've been using since I learned how to make a wig on the sewing machine. So that's what works for me. Okay. So next, I'm gon na show you how it looks when I put the cap onto the canvas head and I'm gon na block my measurements and begin to draw my guidelines. Okay, so I'll be right back, so I've just finished blocking my measurements. I you know I've made wigs for myself so much that I already know what my measurements are. If you don't know your measurements or there are clients and that's why you'll need the tape measure and it's very important again that you are taking accurate measurements. So if you're making the unit for yourself - and you don't feel comfortable, maybe you can have someone else, take your measurements for you, so the measurements that I use, I use for our measurements to circumference. So that's going to be the distance around the perimeter of your head. I also take the front to meet measurement, so that's going to be from the front of your hairline all the way to your name. I also use the air to air temple the temple. So a temple to total gon na measure from where you feel your a temple like sink in on the size of your head, you'll measure from there and to the other side. Okay, so you want to make sure it goes right around the back of your head across the occipital bone right here and then the last measurement is gon na, be the Nate measurement. There are other measurements you can take like the air to air over top the air to air around back all that. But these are the four that I use when I'm making a closure wig. So then the Nate measurement will go from one side of the nape to the other side. Okay, so those are the four also when you are taking our measurements. It'S important that your hair is styled in the way that you would wear it under the wig. So you want to make sure your hair is braided flat and neatly, because if your hair is bulky, when you take your measurements and then your hair is not bulky when you put your wig on the wig is not gon na fit right. If your here is bulky, your measurements are gon na, come out larger and then, when your hair is actually braided down flat, your wig is gon na fit loose okay, so you want to make sure your here is exactly the way you would wear it when you Have it under the wig okay? So now that I have all my measurements blocked, the next step would be to get my closure pinned down. I don't sew the closure on until I'm done, because it's just easier to not have the hair in my way. So I will pin the closure down first, just so that I know where I shouldn't be sewing and then I'll make my guidelines. Okay, also, you may find that when you pin your measurement when you block your measurements, that, depending on your head size, you might have extra space. So I left this area, so I can show you guys what that would look like. So I'm not sure if you can see here, but I extra room in the top. If you want to make sure that you're sewing down this extra room, you're getting rid of it, because when you go to the soda on the machine, you're gon na be left with a loose-fitting unit. Okay. So what I do I'll show you from the beginning, the leg is just going to look like this when you're done. So what I do is, I start from the bottom and I gather all of the extra room. I gather it up and there are different ways. You could do this, I've seen people, do it the opposite way where they gather down. I gather it to the front because the front is going to get cut anyways when I cut the look at for my little closure. So for me that works the best. So I gather all the hair, I mean all of the cap until I get to the front okay. So, as you can see here now, the cap is flesh, it's very taut. What I'll do next is I'll. Take the two pins and I will pin this into place, okay, so this is going to get sewn down right. So I'll just show you all what I do really quickly. So I already have my needle pre threaded okay, so I start at one side and I will begin to stitch it closed. Okay, you don't have to worry too much about how neat it is because again, most of this is going to be cut if you're wearing a closure, and all of it is going to be cut if it's a frontal okay, so it really doesn't matter, but this Is just to really help you out to make sure that the wig is really fitted to your head? Okay, here I have pinned down the closure and I'm just pinning it down so that I know where I don't need to sew around once I have the closure pinned in place I'll be able to trace around in the closure with my sharpie and then I can Take the closure off and take the cap on to the sewing machine. If you would like a more detailed video about how I actually in the closure Don, please leave a comment below and I'll do that for you, as you can see, I've begun to trace the outline of the culture here now I can start removing the T pins As you can see now, I have traced the outline of the 5x5 closure, so we can now move on to creating our guidelines. Creating guidelines is fairly simple. It'S just important that you keep the line as straight as possible. It will assist you when you take the top on to the sewing machine by just keeping the lines very straight across a trick that I use is using the tape measure to measure out the distance between the guidelines. I like to make my guidelines about an inch apart, so I'll measure an inch up from my first guideline and I'll make a small stroke and I'll do that all the way across the head and then I'll go ahead and connect the line so that I can Have one smooth straight line, my second time so I'll continue doing this all the way to the top and then I'll come back to show you. I just wanted to come back, really quick and show you all my finished guidelines. So, as you can see, I just went straight across my lines: aren't perfect, but that's: okay! Okay, I have my five by five closure marked out, and these are what my guidelines are looking like that, so the hair I'm using today, I have 3 bundles of 18 inches, I'm going to start out by doubling the left's and I'll, probably single the left's. When I get to the top just so that it can be flattering, I have about 10 guidelines here. You can definitely do this. It just depends on how much hair you have okay, so I'm gon na show you all how I get started with doubling these West's. So I'm about to put this on the sewing machine, but before I do that, I just wanted to give you all another pointer. So these are the pins that were here because I was sewing down the extra space. I can go ahead and remove that now. So these pins here that are around the perimeter of the wake, represent the measurements. So up here, this pin is here and there's another pin in the back, which represents the front to Nate measurement. There are also two pins right here that represent the Nate measurement, and then there are these two pins right here that represent the temple to Temple measurement so there. So what I do is, I need these pins in their place so that, once I come off the sewing machine and I put the wig back on - I could put them back at DC measurements to make sure that delete is still fitting correctly event. Now I am just removing the pins and replacing them from where I took them so that I can take the cap off of the dome. Now we can start the fun part here. I am beginning to double the web. A little tip that I have is that if you are having trouble getting the wefts to meet at the beginning, when you try to double, I would say to begin your stitch further down on the left and using a backstitch you'll, be able to catch the front Of the weft, and then you can just do your regular front stitch, I'm using a very light hand too. So I'm not pulling or tugging I'm just allowing the sewing machine to do what it does and feed the hair through it. As you can see, I'm simply just holding the left's together, but I'm not really putting much pressure, I'm simply having my hands there, just to hold the two pieces together and the result is a seamless trap, tightly sewn together and very neat. I went on to double two of the bundles and then I left the third bundle alone, as I got closer to the top of the way. Now, I'm beginning to sew the first track onto the cap, I would say that the first track is pretty much the easiest. You really can't mess it up because you're sewing onto the band it's a lot sturdier and sewing on to the mesh part of the tab. One thing that you'll always hear is that if you can sew onto a mesh dome cap, you can sew on to any type of cap. That was the first half that I learned onto and once you sew onto that sewing on a ventilated cap is a no-brainer again. You want to make sure that you are not pulling on the cap that you're not stretching it. If you stretch the tab, it will result in ripples and waves on the cap and it will not be flat. So you just want to help guide the wig cap through the Machine it will move on its own. If anything, you can just have your hand place there for support at the end of the cap, I'm just cutting it off at the end, and then I go ahead and back stitch a few times just to reinforce the ending. This will ensure that there is no shedding and it will just help to ensure a flat finish. Now that I have completed the first track, you can see that I followed the guidelines and it's very neat and flat, and you really can't go wrong with a good sewing machine made wig whenever you, so you will be left with some strands of thread for whatever Reason so you just want to go ahead and snip those off to make sure that your wig is neat. Now I'm moving on to the second track and it's the same process. If you want - and you have trouble attaching the beginning of the left to the front of the cap, you can do the same method that you would do if you were doubling the track, which is back stitching a little further down on the cap, so that you Can catch the beginning of the track and the beginning of the cap and then go ahead with your normal front stitch again. I have my thumb underneath using my left hand, I have my thumb just helping to guide and keep the hair on the guidelines, but I'm not pulling I'm not tugging, I'm just gently gliding it through. I continue the same technique all the way through the top of the cap, because I made sure that my guidelines were straight. I don't have to worry too much about trying to curve the cap. It makes it a lot easier, especially if you're a beginner seller. I just wanted to check in and show you all where I've gotten up to so I just continued sewing in the same pattern that I had been before. As you can see, all of these left's are doubled and then, when I got up here, this left right here is just pinned down, so I could just make sure that I wasn't pulling the cap. I wanted to just test it out, but down here I began singling the West because I'm getting closer to the top, as you can see so yeah I singled here and I'm gon na continue the single the west throughout. I'M almost done I'm going to sew down this row and then I'm going to put the closure back on to the tab and actually slow it down by hand after that, I'm gon na sew around the closure. I'Ll show you all that, but I just wanted to let you know what I'll be doing video ok. So, as I mentioned right now, I'm just gon na go ahead and sew down this last track after that. I'M just gon na have this little section right here to fill in and the closure and I'll speed this up. I don't want the video to crazy long, but if this is about it hair I have begun to so the closure down. If you would like to see more detailed version of how I pin the closure down, please let me know and I'll make a video about that now I have taken the wig back on to the sewing machine. What I'm doing here is sewing the last track right below the closure. The track is not on top of the closure, but it is kissing the closure that will ensure that the wig remains flat and it will seal off the wig so that the other tracks aren't visible. I'M just making sure that I keep the hair out of the way now that I have hair on either side of the cap. It'S a lot easier for hair to get into the way of the presser foot. So I'm just making sure I move that and I keep that area clear of any hair again. You want to make sure that you are back stitching to close it off and getting rid of any excess strands of thread. As you can see, I've closed off the unit that final track is right. Next to the closure, and now it's very flat and has a very seamless look. So I'm just about done with this video. I will make a part two showing how I customized the unit. If you are interested that will include me cutting the cap from underneath bleaching, the knobs, which I do usually do before I make the wig, but this time, for whatever reason I did not so that'll include the bleaching adding elastic band inside, but this video is strictly To show you, the construction, okay, hope y'all can see the inside there's the front, unplucked and unbleached I'll put it off. They don't so. The the pins are still in place. The temple our measurement, isn't there. But I know where the the points where an eighth measurement is there. So when you are done constructing your wig, you want to make sure you put it back on to the dome to make sure that the wig fits if it fits to the dome. At the points where you marked off - and you know it's gon na fit - you are your clients head. So, as you can see here, the cap here is aligned with this part. The temple measurements would have been right here and it it does align with that and from the back once you pull the weight down. You'Ll see that the wig stretches down to meet this point here, and it stretches down to me this point as well as the other point on the other side: okay, nice and flat. As I mentioned thinking, it is not styled at all right. It'S pretty dense and does need some work. This is a five by five culture. Once I add the elastic band, I mean the wig is already gon na fit pretty snug go inside the elastic band. It'S just gon na pull this down for even more seamless. As you can see, it is flat and yeah. So if you are interested in part two of me customizing the seen it please, let me know thanks for watching