How To Replace An Outer Tie Rod End
- Posted on 06 August, 2015
- Lace Frontal
- By Anonymous
How to replace outer tie rods. This video will show you in depth, how to change the inner tie rods of your car or truck. The job straight forward and anyone with basic tools can do it!
Tie Rod Ends I used: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=as_li_ss_t...
Mevotech Tie Rods: http://www.mevotech.com/?s=tie+rods&po...
How to check to see if your tie rod is bad: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brI2fe...
Inner and Outer Tie Rod Replacement: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz...
Outer Tie Rod Replacement in my Truck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxHnN9...
Tie Rod End Cutaway: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RjhtV...
HOMEMADE Penetrating Fluid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WuVBF...
Socket set I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L...
Torque Wrench I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5...
Grease Gun: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002...
Chassis Grease for the Tie Rod Ends: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002K...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ChrisFix assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ChrisFix recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ChrisFix, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ChrisFix.
Hey guys chrisfix here today, I'm going to show you how to replace an outer tie, rod in your car or your truck. This right here is an outer tie, rod and that's how you steer your car. It'S also used for the alignment process to adjust your tow. All you need to do to get this off, there's a nut right here and then there's a jamb nut right back here and then this unscrews and then you put the new one in tighten the nut. Tighten the nut and you're good to go here are all the tools you need to do. The job I'm replacing my tie. Rod ends with these new memo. Tech tie, rod ends and the nice thing about these is they have a grease fitting right here and the castle nut and cotter pins set up, which is way better than OEM. You can see here. The stock set up has a regular nut, but I really prefer the castle nut with the cotter pin through it. So it doesn't come off because your steering system is very important. You could also see the stock tie. Rod end is not greasable, so it doesn't. Last long, whenever you're replacing tie rods replaced both sides because you're going to have to get an alignment after you do this. The tools are basic tools: sockets ratchets wrenches, pliers, breaker bar torque wrench, and I suggest you get some penetrating fluid. It will just make your job that much easier. I should also include a propane torch and a large hammer is the 4 pound hammer because odds are your tie? Rods aren't going to want to come off that easy, usually the jam nut and/or the castle nut on the outer tie. Rod could get a little stuck, so these will help. You'Ll need a marker as well to mark the tie rod. So you can get the alignment on the new tie, rod pretty close to the old alignment, so you could drive it to the alignment shop and then a grease gun because you're going to have to grease the new tie. Rod and there'll be a link to the grease gun and the grease I use in the description. So let's begin, the first step is to make sure you have your car jacked up safely. You have it up on jack stands. I slid the tire under the car as well, and my rear tires are blocked off to prevent the car from rolling. The next thing. You'Re going to want to do is turn this so that you're working with the car and we can easily access the tie rods. So just go in the car turn the steering wheel, and now you can see we can easily get to the tie, rod right back here, the next step. Let'S get some penetrating fluid on this nut here and the jamb nut back there, I'm going to be using my homemade penetrating fluid. If you want to see how to make this I'll put a link to that video in the description below this stuff works miracles. Now we're going to get our socket in this case, it's a 13/16 get our breaker bar, oh right! That was not hard at all. Usually that is a lot harder. Breaker bar did the trick all right. Okay, now you're going to get your nut and you're going to just screw it on the top. Just like that, usually you just get it so it's flush. In this case, this little stud sticks out a little bit, because the next thing you're going to do is you're going to hit the top of this with the hammer and just pop that tire out down just like. So the next thing we're going to do is get this lock. Nut right here, loosened so just put your nut back on just tighten it a little bit. It doesn't need to be tight or anything, and now we're going to loosen this. This is a 7/8 on this vehicle, usually they're relatively large, and you can just hit it with a hammer just like that. Now these could get pretty stubborn and don't want to come off and a lot of times. You need to use heat. So I'm going to go, watch the rubber boot here, so you don't damage it quench it a little bit with some penetrating fluid. Try this again. There we go okay! Now we can take our nut off here. So now we're going to spin this whole thing to remove it, but before we do that, we want to try to get the alignment spec as close as possible. We'Re going to have to take this in for an alignment, no matter what but get a marker, and this guy's have a white marker and you're going to mark the threads right here. So you're going to mark it right here, which is how deep the outer tie rod is screwed into the inner tie, rod marking this allows you to get as close to the current alignment as possible, so we could safely drive the car to the alignment shop. Now we could unscrew this just by twisting it, and you can see our white mark right there. That'S how far we're going to have to screw the other one in and I'll show you how we're going to measure that in a second, so just unscrew this all the way there we go. We got the old one out. Let'S go compare it to the new one, alright, so here's the old tie, rod and here is the brand new tie rod. These are identical parts they're the exact same size. So there's our white mark that we used before - and you can see it's right about here. So that right, there is, where we're going to want to screw in our outer tie rod into the inner tie rod. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take this nut off alright? Now we want this to go right there, just like that. So now we want the back end of this nut to be right there. If we compare it to the old tie, rod you can see, the nut is just about on the white spot of the old tie, rod which should be very similar. It doesn't have to be perfect. We just want to get it close, so we can get rid of the old tie, rod and install the new tie rod. Now this car doesn't need an inner tie. Rod the inner tie. Rod still feels good, there's no play it's relatively stiff. If you want to see a video on how to test your tie rods, see if they're bad, I have a video on that I'll leave a link to that video. In the description for you to check out this inner tie, rod is just going to screw right in and we're going to screw it in up to this lock nut, so that lock nut is our alignment, so we're just going to close it right up to that Perfect right there now is a good time to get the grease fitting and install the grease fitting, because this is going to be upside down. It might just be a pain to install it upside down. So the grease fitting just threads right into this. You do it by hand to start make sure you don't cross thread it, and in this case it's an 8 millimeter and you don't want to tighten this too much. You just get it snug. So once it starts getting tight, you just snug it right down. So right there it's pretty tight. Now, I'm just going to take a turn just like that, and that's all you want to do you could over tighten these and strip it out. You don't want to do that. Will grease this at the end. For now, let's go install this I'll, take the castle nut off here. So if we look at the tie, rod end stud, you can see the hole right there and the castle nut will be tightened down until we have it right about there, where the hole in the little cutout and the nut meats and we're going to have to Align this stud to go right in perfect, get our castle nut on here. So now, let's tighten it up. Okay, once this starts getting snug we're going to get our torque wrench and we're going to put the torque wrench on here, and this range is from 38 to 44 foot-pounds. So I set the 38 so that we don't over, tighten it. You don't ever want to loosen the castle nut, so I'm tightening it down. Okay, that's 38 foot-pounds right there and if you look here, you can see the cotter pin hole is blocked, but just barely. We only need to tighten this a tad and we should have clearance to slip our cotter pin through. So I'm barely going to tighten this just a little bit. That looks perfect. Let'S see if we can slip this in beautiful, our cotter pin goes right through then you take a pliers and you can see. The bottom piece is a little bit longer, so you could grab the end to separate the two. You separate it and then you bend each one around the nut just like so so. I bet that around the castle nut now I'll bend the other side around which will make it so it doesn't come off. That looks pretty good. You can see right there both ends Bend around the castle nut and that really locks it in place. So now we just have to add grease over here, but before we add grease, let's tighten this lock nut here, so this lock nut here you want to tighten as hard as you can. You don't have to get it super super tight because you're going to be taking this to the alignment shop and they're going to adjust the toe and to do that, they have to loosen this either way. I like tightening it down as much as I can. Okay, and that is tight beautiful now, with the castle nut torque down and the cotter pin through and the lock nut tighten as hard as we can. We could go add our grease for our final step, and you just want to put a few pumps of grease into here enough, so that you see this expand a little bit and you can see after two pumps that boot is expanding slightly, which means we are Done and that's all there is to it, that's how you replace a tie, rod in a car or truck the good thing about tie rods is they're pretty much all the same in most vehicles, so everything you saw, I did here pretty much works on any other Car you want to change these out in pairs and I'm going to go. Do the other side. Hopefully this video was helpful if it was remember to give it a thumbs up. Also, if you're not subscribed, consider subscribing up on the screen are going to be other videos related to tie rods like how to check your tie rods, how to replace inner and outer tie rods, and another outer tie rod. End video that I did on my truck
Comments
Angel C: I love this guy, he makes everything looks as simple and not over complicated at all. Makes me want to buy a project car and apply these steps without the second thoughts of "if I am doing this right" thoughts. Love it!
aquateen: Thanks for the thorough description on changing out the tie rod ends. Most people wouldn't try this at home, but you make it seem almost easy, Chris.
Jordan Cooper: great video man, really appreciate all the effort you put into making these and that you put links in the description for all of the stuff you use :) keep up the great work!
Jeff: Good stuff, Chris. I just changed out the tie rod ends and drag link ends on my 1990 Suburban based on your tutelage. Also straightened the steering wheel that's been crooked for 5 years (after a professional alignment).
Ali Kayed: Amazing Job Chris! , Really informative video i just love the amount of detail u give for every step Feels so professional , Learned alot from you man! Keep it coming Regards!
Musta Kustaa: ChrisFix I gotta say you made me do it! I have not been able to even change the oil in my car. Only in a few months I went from that to complete maintainance work, including brakes and tie rods, even changed some hoses and flushed my cars systems. I am going to start to study automotive mechanics as I got so much into this. Thank you.
Ephraim Camacho: Thanks Chris! You make it look so easy! Keep up the good work!
Ryan Amberger: I'm so happy I found your channel. No only have I saved money doing minor fixes on my own now, it gives a good amount of satisfaction doing things myself rather than a mechanic. Not going to lie though, I still have a garage change my oil during the winter. It's worth a little extra to not lay on that cold concrete. LOL
Dogg416: Great videos yo... Keep up the good work... Good to see young mechanics that know how things go...
Larry Heller: Great video as always, Chris! Your camera work and narration are the best I've seen on youtube, in my opinion ... the one thing that surprised me a bit was you didn't replace the tie rod lock nut because it looked like the old nut was rounded over quite a bit. (It always amazes me too that new parts don't automatically come with new fasteners!) Comments on that?
Bassmith1: Best auto repair instructional videos on YouTube. Very professional and you explain all of the details. That’s important! I’m a subscriber!
David H: Additional tips : Count the turns and re install same amount. Measure threads ( distance ) and put jam nut in proper spot. I like to grease tie rod before and after jam ( lock nut ) in place and then grease. Best to lock down ( tourque ) nuts and tie rod in straight ahead position.Realistacally they are in straight ahead position when driving. This way your not creaing damage before you leave the lot by wedging tie rod in the knuckle. Remember parts are not defective instalkets are . . . Just saying.
David Plass: Great videos. You explain everything, and more importantly, you show the wrenching!
LoneWolf 96: I bought myself a suspension kit for my '91 Honda Accord EX I'm selling and I'm pleased with myself. I changed the sway bar bushings and the driver's side tie rod. Passenger side rod end is a pain but I'll be getting that and then do a test drive. Thanks ChrisFix! you're the automotive guru my man!
Daniel Coman: Hi Cris! First I want to say that i really like all your videos and I want to thank you for teaching me a few things. About this video...I wanted to say that a better method than marking the outer tie rod before taking it out, is counting the rotations. That what i do and when i take the car to the garage for the alignment most of the times they tell me that they actually didnt make any changes. Just hope this is helpful. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!! :)
Captain Dark: I replaced my entire suspension because the stealership wanted a total of $4000 for parts plus labor I laughed bought the kit and did it myself so $590 car feels like new thank you chris
Marc Rodriguez: I replaced both my inner and outer tie rods myself. I am a decent mechanic but your video was a ton of help!!! You explain the process so well and simple. KEEP IT UP!!
IT?: You're the man! Nice camera work, great audio and you showed the right way to do something...Thanks for your upload...It's nice that we have so many manufacturers making better than OEM parts now and you can have them at your door in a day!...Some of the parts on these SUV's are minimum spec..shared, saved, thumb already subbed...:)
Lofi Ambience: Thanks for this video Chris. It helps me even with a different truck know what to do. I bought some new tie rod ends for my truck and new out of the box I can with medium force move the joint part . From your video you said that is not good. They don't freely move, but I can move them. Your input would be appreciated. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Kevin Rovelli: Hey Chris, I have never been very mechanical but your videos are so helpful. I just find myself wanting to do all these things to my 1999 Mazda b3000 just because you show me how. Lol Keep up the videos I really enjoy them!
Muataz Jabri: Very informative, thanks. Your videos make me very comfortable while working on my car cause I know exactly what to do and the tools I need.
Jose: Chris thanks a lot for posting helpful videos Like this Because of you I have sorta become a DIY guy And saved tons of money... Really appreciate it And keep it up with your awesome work
al mai: You’re a solid guy Chris. Please make more videos like this
Zaeem Khichi: Awesome i really love your videos, you make the job so simple and easy. lots of respect for you bro...
pee cee: Hi Chris, thanks for all these helpful uploads. The rubber boots on my tie rods and ball-joints are all cracked and falling apart. I've been spraying them every time they made noise with wd-40 waterproof lubricant. If I continue keeping them lubricated with spray but not changing them, would the wear accelerates to cause a problem? The car (2000 Grand Marquis) is 19 years old with 110000 miles but running good.
BestBuildPC Power of imagination: Perfect!!!!!!! Thankssssssssss a lot!!! Learning from your amazing ideas!!! It is incredible how much I learn from your videos in one way or another one. You are transferring your knowledge to my brain!!!
Hudson Valley Drone Flights: Well done! Excellent presentation!
Brandon Reilley: I love watching these car videos it helps me a lot as I want to become a car mechanic and these videos teach me how to do things and how to do them right I have learned a lot and plan on learning more keep up the great work
Kyotra: As appreciated as these vids are, there's an issue here - all you've ever covered is rack-and-pinion steering, not recirculating ball (still in use on some trucks and performance cars). Left me a bit clueless as to how to deal with a center/drag link and Pitman arm. Might be time for an update, considering these vids are nearly a decade old.
Ismail Mohammad: I had some notions of doing small works my self, but with ChrisFix, I have a confidence i have the right planning, the right tools and the right material, I also make sure I treat well every screw and every part of my car while I am performing the steps. all this means, saving money, saving time and quality job....great satisfaction, Many thanks Chris
RangeRov49: Please note that envoy/trail blazers as do most Toyota truck tierod jam nuts are reverse to the treading of most vehicles. I would recommend using map gas over propane, as you will be there forever heating it with propane. Castle nuts generally do not seize, as lock nuts almost always do. I also advise anti-seizing the threads of the new tie rod, just in case you have to replace it again and it's a nice gesture to the aligner, especially years down the read when it needs to be aligned again. ;) Good video, though.
RobEJC: The MOST I've ever done are oil changes, before now. Replaced inner/outer tie rods, sway bar links and strut/coil assemblies on both sides of my mother's van using Chris' videos as a guide. Took the van in for an alignment. Service Manager calls asks to see me and says, "I don't know who did the work on this van," *gulp* "but they did a great job. It came in tracking really straight and my tech only needed to make minor adjustments. Most time when they come in, they're so bad we wonder how they got here without the wheels falling off." DAYUM, Chris - these vids WORK!
RS 1990: Bear in mind that surplus toe in/out of the front wheels can result in a worn tire tread condition called 'feathering'.
Rocky Bernardi: Thanks that was very good, going to try it out on my own car , keep the videos coming
Brayden Phillips: Technician here. I agree with most of it. Only thing I'd change is hit the knuckle where the tie rod mounts to the knuckle instead of the top of the old tie rod. If you aren't careful, the top of it when hit could bow out, making it near impossible to get out
DE Nichols: Wow! Congrats on 300k+ subscribers. I remember when Might Car Mods had less and that's a big reach channel. Thanks man. Even though I'm a pro now I still haven't changed a Tie rod. I'm a pro thanks to you and other great channels. Looks like I need a Torch just in case. :)
christopher fuller: Great video. Love the wealth of info. Keep up the good work
Halcyon: Hi Chris. Your videos are really helpful. I have a problem with my car. I get a single clunking noise when I make a sharp turn at about 15 mph. The funny thing is, it only sounds once per direction. For example, if I make a right turn, I hear the noise. But if I make another right turn, there is no noise. On the other hand, if I make a left turn I hear it again. I was in NC for a while and took my car to a friend's recommended mechanic. He replaced the F/R ball joint, inner and out tie rods. The old parts seemed to have worn rubber grommets--I have them with me. We went for a test drive and the noise seemed to have stopped. But now that I am back home (in FL) I started hearing the noise again. Unfortunately I can't go back to the mechanic in NC. Do you have any ideas as to what might be making that noise? I even have videos recordings where you can hear the noise. Looking forward to your feedback.
John Alastair Stewart Alastair: Difficulty ZERO, great video. Thanks a lot!
Longbox55: Good video. A little tip that will make things easier should the tie rod need to be replaced in the future, plus will help with aligning, is to put a little grease or anti seize on the threads before you thread the tie rods together. That will help prevent corrosion that will seize the tie rods together.
RJ Mildenberger: Another good trick to get the tie rod ball joint end out of the 'suction' on the knuckle is to hit the knuckle on the side with the hammer where the tie rod is attached. I am referring to the part in the middle of the screen at 2:55. It makes the tie rod pop out pretty easy. I used to use a pickle fork, but now I do it this way, and the pickle fork sits in the tool box.
mik pugl: Excellent, this just cost me £100 for both sides on my Jag S type at a Jag specialist which ain't too bad but will do it myself next time thanks to you!
Robert Parker: That Mevotech stuff is great quality! I look for it for all my replacement parts, cant beat the price for the quality either.
David Miranda: @ChrisFix 's Penetrating Fluid really rocks man!! and is unflammable too, awesome! The lock nut got kind of stripped, thoug, I'd replace it, just in case. The marking part is SUPER important, like you said, for driving safely to the alignement place. An important job made easy, great video Chris, as usual!
ZIMALETA MOTORS & Sprinter How To Show: *Great Video I liked and I will check out more of your videos, I do all my own service on cars I mostly work on Mercedes and Audis funny thing I never did tie rods before so watching your video helpd me understand it, I knew how to remove it and install new but how you use a white Marker was an awesome Idea to keep the Alignment, keep up the good work.*
w0bblyd0inkb0ink: 2:53 You risk threads compressing, better to hit indirectly on the side, you can hit harder without risking damage and it’ll pop loose very quickly.
Ryan Schindo: Thanks for your great videos. Where can I find the torque specs for my vehicle for the bolts used?
Rigid Wing: I just replaced the right tie rod on my 07 trailblazer with an OEM AC DELCO part. All went pretty well, nothing really tight. The tie rod would not take grease. I removed the zerk and it flowed grease. I knocked the ball around with a piece of wood and I could see that the ball moved. Guess its too tight to let the grease in. I think it already has grease but found this strange. My plan is to try to grease it again after about 1K miles and maybe it will have enough clearance for the grease to enter. Measured and counted turns and its back exactly like it was.
Basic Pony Mods: The best tutorial video. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.
Real J Wheezy Productions: Well instructed video! Once again, i have another video request which it may or may not be on the list yet but it would be installing an aftermarket radio deck/unit and installation of an aftermarket muffler such as a flowmaster which usually isnt a direct fit.
hisham202: Chris, Try using a floor jack to push on the wrench in order to loosen the nut on the inner side. This should help you instead of heating up the whole thing. Thanks for the video.
trollaphobic: Hey chris great vid as always. You probaby alredy know but just in case, map gas is the best for at home diy use without an acetelyne torch. Its the yellow bottles next to the blue propane bottles. Map just burns hotter, enough to make some then metals red, but wont melt or cut anything.
Michael Kennedy: A little hint. If the threaded stud spins as you're spinning the nut, put a scissor jack under it and press it up
Fredrik Ernofsson: Hey Chris! Do you use original spare parts? Or is it safe to use aftermarket parts? Thanks!
Khalid Al-Bahi: Hey Chris. It's Khalid here. I think this is your 3rd video changing tie rods. However, you always find a way to add a new tip here and there. I personally like your old method of counting the turns. Because no matter how organized I try to be, I seem to forget a key tool back on the shelf (like that marker or corrector). Keep the good stuff coming champ!! Short and to the point!!
Mikey 305: Love watching your videos Chris!
xXHUNTERXxXx: Hey Chris, I am going to be changing the inner drivers side tie rod on my car soon. Do I need to replace both outer tie rods in addition to doing both sides of the inner tie rods? Thanks!
Jerry Ligues: Chris you explain everything so perpect that i do alot of my own repairs.i would like to see you work ok cadillacs more often
Totanka1989: Had a minor accident a week ago, the screw holding the front right tie rod broke and the wheel disconnected from underneath me at 30mph (I'm lucky I didn't go into the ditch). I was just about half a mile from home, so I could replace it temporarily with a plumber screw, and got a new 10.9 class (the strongest and hardest class) on both sides, now I have to reconnect, possibly replace the axles, and pray that my clutch and transmission survived this
RS 1990: On buses specially equipped for Curb Guided Busway Duties, the front wheel alignment has to be 100% exactly 'Toe Neutral' because both guide rollers have to make contact with the track walls.
Funny farts smell funny: Great video! Only thing I'd have done different was to replace the lock nut for a new one.
Who cared..!: Great job, it does help me a lot
C C: We need a CV joint replacement video from you. We already know you'll do it better than any other youtuber.
William Prah: Simplest explanation and video demonstration I've ever seen/heard regarding tie rods. I've never done it myself, always took it in to have this done, then aligned. I just might give it a shot.
Callum Cowell: you could count the turns it takes to remove it so you get it in the same place as the last track rod end
The Opiner: When I remove the zero from the outer tie rod ends after greasing, grease oozes out quite a bit. Is it okay to leave the zero in the outer tie rod? Is it a sign of over filling?
Jonathan Martinez: Your videos are very helpful but if you could include how one would know that the certain part you are showing in the video needs to be changed would be awesome thank you love your vids.
Randy Rodriguez: interesting tidbits: those grease fittings are called zerk fittings in aviation. also in aviation we normally keep pumping grease until we see fresh grease coming out.
Shantel Williams: Your videos are really helpful
un tal tin: thank you, your video was very helpful and saved me some good dollars
Bill Shaw: Don't change a thing. Great video and tells me everything I need to know. Saved me tons of money.
RCMan98: I just replaced the steering rack in my car. Man, what a pain! While I was at it, I replaced outer tie rod ends and sway bar links. Lol. Shop quoted me $1600 for the rack installed.... I bought the rack for $130 and installed it myself. Haha. I'm pretty cheap
RJ Mildenberger: Also, its pretty simple to do your own alignment. For just aligning the toe, I would never pay to have it done at a shop.
happinessisafulltank: I remember the first time I changed tie rods (in winter).... didn't know about using heat... many wasted hours cursing, hammering, and fighting with that inner nut. I'm getting ready to change them on a truck now so I invested the $30 in a propane torch. Not making that mistake again lol.
Rick Curiel: It would be nice if you showed more work being done on 1999 jeep grand cherokee 4.7L.... Thanks, your videos are very helpful.
Smenny: Lucky that came out so easy! Doing this on my old car I had to get a tool to press it out. Tighten it all I could, let it sit for 10 minutes, tighten, let it sit and so on. Eventually it popped out with one hell of a bang
Ok De: I said it again and again !!!this guy knows what he's saying and no one come even close the way he teaches!!
neworder18: Another way to get the new outer tie rod in the same spot as the old one is to count the number of turns the old rod took to come out and count the same number of turns in with the new
14725800369: Hey Chris, I couldn't find any video of you changing the CV shaft/axle/joint? As many economy cars have front wheel drive and mostly people with economy cars work on their own vehicles, that'll be a great and very helpful video for many of us
Chewbacca C-3PO: amazing Chris...i just replace my crankshaft position sensor on jeep liberty 2004..its was easy Mr Chris...thank you gor your videos...
Tackle Tart TV: Hey Chris, awesome channel, My steering wheel is turned to the right a little bit when driving straight, how would i go about adjusting this?? thanks in advance for your help, happy to donate to a charity of your choice for advice
Dixon Cider: ah, perfect timing. got one of these to do. thanks Chris! Also guys, there are some videos on doing an alignment at home using a string on youtube and jackstands at each end of your car. Its not perfect, but you might be able to skip the alignment shop.
JoKeRAzzam: A good and clean job
Blazer: Hey Chris, I have a question about the mevotech parts you are using. How are they holding up? I’m looking at getting all 4 control arms from mevotech for my 2000 Chevy blazer . Did they fit properly? Was the quality worth it? I was looking at Moog but they don’t make the heavy duty control arms for my blazer any more. And when I do find some they don’t have all 4. But since I’m eyeing mevotech for now I haven’t bothered with Moog much for other then steering components. If you could please answer ASAP that would be amazing because I need to order those today or tomorrow. Also the parts I’m looking to get are the mevotech supreme. Thanks in advance.
san379: great vid.. ive never tried it.. here in northern canada its rusty with salt and snow but rustproofing is key here
brian.dudek: Nice attention and technique for torque specs and maintaining alignment but the jack stand "cheater" and wheel chock especially, are truly scary.
Terrance Askew: Really chaps my gears, when folks dont use anti-seize in applications like this.....either way, great video.
Alperenn40: it was nice and interesting like it always is!
bob -: Do you think the tie rod torque specs are for most cars?
Abhishek Roy: excellent video! keep up the good work Chris!
Charkatak: ChrisFix, if I am replacing only one outer tie rod, do you recommend going OEM or aftermarket? The other side has OEM
razz P: Do work coilovers ruin outer tie rods? I already have to replace the outer tie rods, I'm wondering if I should also replace the coilovers as they are soft and have never been replaced. The car has 330K km on it.
Keviiiboo: Do you take off the zerk fitting after installation or can you leave it on?
are snickle: Thanks Chrisfix for helping me with my vehicle on ALL your videos I've redone everything that you did now my car is like new
Gymell Chrichlow: This video is perfectly detailed, now i can do this stuff myself, not sure why mechanics charge so much when it's really that simple... Thanxx Chris....
maged ahmed: chris, would you please make a video about ordering spare parts online ? i watched many of your videos specially for the suspension system, and man you are doing a great job, but when i try to look for spare parts in local store for my Mazda 3 2009 i found them very expensive. i.e : my control arm bushings are totally worn out and when i check with a local store and the Mazda agent they said bushing are not sold separately and i have to buy new control arm..!! but i keep watching videos showing people found and fix it. please can you do a video on this topic ?
Julian Archibeque: Hi Chris. I’m debating on taking on the job of rebuilding my front end, ball joints, control arm bushings, etc. i have found very few videos on how to remove the torsion bar from the lower control arm like on my 1993 Chevy k1500. Is this something I can do in my garage or should I just cough up the money and pay a shop to do it? I’m confident that I can do everything else but the lower control arm
Shane Foalima: Awesome video Chris could you tell me how do you determine torque for each nut on the vehicle?
Stephen Fisher: How unsafe is it to drive without getting an alignment for a couple of days?
Bas van der Vegt: One question about the alignment, you said to mark the old tie rod ( the broken tie rod that is out of allignment probably right? Isnt the new one going to be stretched and stressed too much?