Redken Color Gels 101 (Low Ammonia High Saturation)

Hey everyone, so I know you guys liked my previous videos on redken color brands. I did one on the red can shades eq and the shades eq cream and one on red chromatics. So today, I'm gon na be doing one on the awesome Red King color gels. So I've had purchased this about a year ago, when Red King color gels was still out. This was their try, color gels, it's their permanent color that guarantees rich saturated results with exceptional great coverage and inside you get. They give you a 20 volume developer $ 25 $ 25 voucher for the red can exchange red can insert, which is a basic mini shape. Chart of what to expect from the color line goes over all their little tones and a gigantic salon wall chart that you can use in your salon or in the back bar the wall. Chart is very helpful if you want to get a quick reference without having to go through the swatch, looking your color all over it. So if you've got like color on your hands, you don't know what to mix. You can run into the back bar. Look at the wall chart and that will give you more than enough information. My personal favorite red can neck color remover a stain whites. These are an absolute must if you're using color gels because of the texture, it's a very different consistency that I'm used to working with the pH bonder kit and $ 25 20 % off any red. Can retail new user very cool, so I'm gon na use this. I don't even know that was in there and then you get the I use this two applicator bottle. So what I like about this kit first off is that it gives you a really good introduction on what to expect from the line. It tells you, however, all the information on here, so I always recommend to my students or any aspiring cosmetologist. When you get your license, if you're unsure about a color brand, get the kits ask the sales associate, how many you have to buy, because that way you can actually get a good amount, but for I think this is like getting 10/10 of the color gels. I picked out 10 awesome shades. Well guess what I also got free developer because it was free after you get a certain amount. Free developer, free wall chart free vouchers, all that comes with the box. So that's what I really like about this color brand. Is you get free stuff for a certain amount that you purchase going to red, can color gels, so red can color gels from what I've heard from my cosmetology teacher back in the day is actually a little bit more older, I think, came before color fusion. I don't know if that's true, but it makes sense because liquid color, which, by the way is an American thing, is something that was very popular, 20 and way before that 20 plus years ago. It'S really what we had to work with. We didn't have these cream colors, we really didn't know much about color. There wasn't this big stress about measuring color, but now that we've, you know, become more scientific with our practice or, as red can used to call it the scientific approach. We want to measure everything so color gels is impressive because you can actually measure it in the bottle without using the color scale. I use color scale just to be safe. They have 10 20 30 and 40 volume developers and it's a special emulsified developer. You cannot mix color gels with the color fusion developer and don't mix it with the shades eq developer you're not going to get an even result. This color is designed to react with the liquid developer and it becomes like a gel like consistency, it's really odd how you mix it. My own personal opinion, though i will tell you guys right off the bat. The bottle is not the most efficient for it. I prefer to use a different bottle because i found that, while using the bottle, I literally had a good amount of color that was left over after I beat the crap out of the bottle and how to come out. So you know be mindful that there is color thickener that you can use. You can actually put a color thickener in a color Bowl. If you try to mix the color gels in a bowl, I've done that and - and it still is a mess - so please apply this the applicator bottle. You need to use a any kind of liquid color bottle because it does make a mess and if you squirt too hard actually explodes. So it is a little bit more of a messy color, even though it says the gel base color. I think it's still more of a liquid, it's very similar to the old style liquid colors. The color also claims to ammonia, and I will be honest - I don't know how true that is because I personally found that this color stunk a lot more of ammonia compared to the color fusion and in addition, it covered gray a lot better than color color fusion. The colors, because I'm gon na go over the swatch book, for you guys, the color is in this line tend to be a little bit more deeper. They tend to be a little bit more of a heavier pigment in base, so that is really good for gray hair. You know you get good coverage that way. It'S not as translucent as color fusion is so. If you're mixing color be prepared to get a slightly deeper result, and that's why I prefer to always go a shade lighter while using this. The other good news with this color is that it actually matches up perfectly two shades eq and the names are very similar. So like in the video I did, I used 6r rocket fire on my retouch and then I used a sex rocket fire and shades eq to refresh everything else, and the results are perfect, even from roots tip very easy to apply. The one downside is that, even when you do your best application, you still will get a slight overlap. So that's a downside, but it did not darken it didn't band. This is actually a month of the color I used 6r. I also found that it faded much more quicker in my hair. I don't know if that's because I was in the pool I was outside in the Sun, but it faded a lot lighter. So I was impressed by that. It lifts your hair really. Well, so don't worry about it being a lower lift one. I did notice that when I did it, the color was a lot darker and then it immediately faded out to a lighter shade that I was impressed with. I even had a lot of the artists at the energizing summit comment on how good my color looked and I'm like red can represent. So I also want to mention the stain removers. If you get color anywhere, the red can color gels tends to be very clear when you first apply. It has like a light off color pigment and then, when you apply all around the hairline, if you get it here, it becomes very dark. So the color stain removing wipes help to get it off immediately. If you have a client that stains well, this color will definitely stain around their scalp. So I usually tell them: wait a few washes or take the stain removing wipes to take it off. So I'm gon na go and talk about the swatch book and a little bit about the color families. You'Ve got where a lot of people get confused. You have your neutrals are your Naturals, which are a actually their cool tone, even though they're natural, they are cooler based. So if you're, covering a hundred percent gray, you might want to go for the neutral warm which or the natural warm, which has a slightly more gold and warm base to it like a tan color that comes out much nicer compared to the Naturals, because it might Be a little too cool toned and the natural ash is incredibly cool toned that will make your gray hair look even greater, so don't make that mistake of doing that you can cover Dre with. I can look at the insert. What I think is really creative, as you can. Oh also, they do have high lift hair colors and I have not used them. I would assume you're a little bit stronger. So if you're trying to remove color or bump some of it out, you can actually use the double 40 volume and the blue or the violet fashion gels and that will lift the hair up to five levels. So, let's see, according to color gels, I'm reading right off the insert. This is versatile, reliable and dynamic permanent hair color. It'S a select eye system that contains a hundred percent oxidative UV, stable long, lasting dyes for holding power and resistance of fading contains wheat, protein and avocado oil for strength and condition formulated with a traditional ten level system also includes fashion gels, achieve ultra high, lift with Superior tonal control light unbelievably and bright and brilliantly in one simple step. Follow the formulation. Guidelines are very simple, so you have superior great coverage families, let's see, to maintain the most control and covering grace like to formula no more than two levels lighter than natural hair. Really depends on the level gray you're working with on a hundred percent gray. You can do just about anything so up to one hundred percent gray. You can use these five superior gray coverage, families alone or mixed to cover a hundred percent and those are the natural with an only natural, warm NW. Only warm gold WG, only copper Brown CB. Only or Ruby bound, our be only the copper Brown and the Ruby Brown are really good to mix together with the red series. If you have a client, that's originally been coloring their hair with a pure red series and now they're gray, and they don't want to get the pinky look. Use the RB mixed in. According to the formulation chart in the dilution chart for gray hair. To achieve the same red result without having it be too muddy or too brassy and hot, so it gives you an example there. The best practices is to apply zone 1 use quarter inch. Diagonal partings then use the opposite direction across check, use a timer to use to make sure your timings, accurate common sense and then what I do for the last 10 or 15 minutes. I apply the shades eq everywhere else. If you don't feel comfortable doing that, you can actually shampoo the hair apply everywhere and then rinse out. Let'S see so they do have a clear and I will say the clear is one of my favorites, because the clear can be used. If someone is wanting to get rid of hair color, that's in their hair, what I'll do is I'll use a color remover best example: box: black hair dyeing multiple applications. I use a color remover, take it out and I take the clear with 20 or 30 volume. I put it over there process it for 45 minutes, rinse give them a deep condition, put a toner on them, send them out, and sometimes you do it again. I'Ve gotten great results out frying the hair off by doing that, as opposed to using a bleach. The clear alone is a really good product for getting pure levels of lift. You can use it clear with 10 20 30 40 volume to get pure lift just know that if you use a clear before you volume on dark hair, you're gon na pull out orange. Likewise, if you have someone who's at a level 7 and you mix 2013, the clearer your might not get the level 10 you're gon na get some yellow, so you'll have to tone. So the old-school way of doing hair was, is you can use the clear, put clear everywhere, bump them up a few levels and then take your toner and put the toner over it, so you can actually get fashion. Read results I having to bleach the hair. I'Ve done it way back in the day where I mixed clear, 40 volume on my own, applied it to regrowth, got a chat, nasty, brassy orange color. Then I took the toner or the debt, my color, that was a register shade and I applied it everywhere and I got the nice fashion results. So, let's see the clear is also really good for any of the shades like. If you have the 5rv and you want to make lighter right, violet shades, you can have the clear to it and dilute it lighter. You can use a clear with any shade just about or if you don't feel comfortable, you can mix shades like. If you want to get a seven warm gold, they don't have that you can mix equal parts of the six and the eight, and that makes your seven you can use it to also make the color more translucent. So, that's really how I would use clear personally the high-lift hair color. You cannot mix anything else, so mix a clear in there that just I Lutz it down. You can mix the blue in the violet high-lift hair color to get like a pearl color and that will make a nice high, lift blond color for clients that just want a very simple single process color. So I think I covered everything on the shades of cue color gels. I personally like it. I think it's great for covering grays. I personally find that it's a little bit more alkaline compared to the color fusion comment down below. If you agree, I know a lot of other stylists will say the same thing that they don't really believe it's low ammonia. I had someone when I was behind the chair, who she always used: color gels on her client, because she got the best gray coverage. I find they're very good for great coverage. I actually use them on my grandma, who is a hundred percent white up at the regrowth. We do a ten neutral, warm or natural warm, and we get pure gray coverage by doing that. I process her for forty five minutes and that's the big key. I find that these colors work best if you process em for the full 45 minutes again always check cuz, there's a lot of variables that go into that, but on my own hair and when I got vibrant red, I did 45 minutes for this, even though it's Faded out quite a bit - and I just want to let you guys know that I think color gels has been discontinued - they're, replacing it with a brand new line, the color gels lacquers, which I've heard mixed things on. I haven't tried it yet, but when I get the chance I will purchase some of the shades and get one of their usage kits. So I can do a video of me trying it and a review. So at this point, if you guys want to stop the video, you can stop it here, but I'm going to continuing go on to the swatch book. So let me get my swatch book and I'll see you guys in one sec, alright, everyone. So this is the color gels swatch book. This is all the information to know, I always say get a swatch book, because that will give you all. The information that you need to know is the artist to do hair, color scientifically and have fun and create amazing results. It tells you everything from the tonal families to the processing times so right here we have the greens, so GN is green. Ash is not green by the way ash is actually a blue color, so green natural is formulated with a gray background and a yellowish green tone to control warmth. It comes in levels, four, six and eight. These are used on clients that want to get a higher lift Brown result and you can control the red tone with the green. So if you use the green you're gon na cancel out the red, you might be left with a slight warmer brown, so be mindful of that. If you're lifting more than two levels, I prefer the greens for doing cooler, tone brunettes brunettes that want a deep green. I also think that you can use them for fashion results, because I have a slight green roof rack reflect if you're doing on Vivid's, you can do a green base and then do foils and put a nice green color in there and it blends in nice. You get like a hunter green look of the forest, so the greens, I also don't think, are suitable for use on gray hair because it will make them look incredibly drab and dull onf Watson mentioned the green shades are for jian forest 6gn, moss, hg NID. Then you have your a B, your ash, blue, blue and silver tones for ultimate control of warmth. I actually like mixing the a B and the GN for incredible cooling results that creates a super, a shade that controls, warmth and you can lift to higher levels while controlling warmth. So your tones are v. A B Twilight 7, a B moonstone a a B Stardust. I'Ve actually mixed the 7, a B with a gold neutral to create a very nice Brown with out as much gold, so it actually controlled some of the warmth and as we lifted my client, she got a nice Brown result and we did some highlights over it. You have your natural ash, which is a corresponding corrective tone at each level to help control warmth. So the background is kind of tan. If you see that - and the tone goes up, the 10n is actually really violet. I'Ve tested on my swatches, if you have for na chicory 5n, a walnut 6n a which is Moroccan sand 7n, a mirage, a 10, a Mojave. The names are really interesting: 9a, a 909 and a platinum ice 10 and a silk. These are really nice colors for natural or about 25 % gray. So this is the one color that I like for just a general mixing guidelines for doing any kind of color the Naturals, which are balanced, neutral tones for complete, never too warm gray coverage. They do have a slight um. I don't know if I would say a a slight bias to being cool, but they kind of are there a tan background, but the tone of it is actually very deep. It'S like a cooler one. You have three n3n espresso for n hazelnut 5n coffee bean 6n suede, 7 n bamboo, a n sesame, 9 n cafe elite or a lot 10 n creamy latte cream latte is a really nice light one, but look at the difference between the two. These colors look. Incredibly different at each level, and the one downside that I found was that the neutrals don't have anything below a three, so there is no, and there is no level one which is kind of a bummer. You have your gold beige, which is champagne tones that are never too warm. So what I like about gold beige is that it's a balanced gold, so you don't have to worry about someone turning into a screaming orange head in your chair. They come in levels. 5. 7 & 8 level, 5 GB is truffle level. 7 GB is praline cream. It gives you a very nice result for low lighting. I like doing these low lights over a nice light blonde and 9gb champagne. I'Ve used an I'm Jim, be over 8 ten days because she didn't want to go too deep and just by adding up one of one level deeper, it actually made her look like in one dimension. These are your natural worms that come in to full levels from level one all the way through level ten, and these are more accurate to what a natural or a neutral shade looks like the natural, warm Browns and blonds. Oh, no, the natural warm is rich, warm, Browns and blondes that cover gray completely. They have a very broad tone right up here and a warm tan background. Color. You have level 1 and W, which is midnight. You have level 2 NW chocolate. You have 3 MW, mocha Java for NW maple 5 MW, cappuccino sorry, but the camera is having a problem: focusing 6 MW, brandy, 7 MW, chestnut 8, NW, Safari, 9, NW, Irish cream and 10 MW Moroccan or no macadamia a --, the which is one of my Go-To formulas for clients that want that translucent blonde result. It may not cover all the gray, but you get a very nice result with it. We'Re almost getting there, your energies, which are your natural Gold's. These are natural, soft golden Browns and blonds that come in a nice, yellow tone and a brown background. Color all of these shades by the way have a with the exception of the cool tones and the no background colors have a slightly balanced background. Color of a brown Stan anything neutral. Well, you have 4 mg pecan 5ng, caramel, 6 mg, topaz, 7 mg saffron and a mg sunflower, 10 mg honey. The 10 mg honey looks yellow, but it comes out very nice and rich. If you mix it with the gold beige, it becomes a very nice shade. The gold beige can be used to actually covered ray from what I found. I have met with the creator of that shade. Ferment can a while back on one of the classes on warm Gold's WG. The warm Gold's are golden that cover with exceptional great coverage. These have a orange to yellow tone and they have a deep tan brown background. Color, so you have 4wg Sun tea, 6wg mango, which this is one of my favorite fillers to use in the demi-permanent line: 8w g golden apricot. These are one of my favorite shades to this family to use on brunettes, because brunettes don't have to be boring and brown. You can actually add a little bit of warmth to them and give them some life without being too warm or too bad. And that's where the warm Gold's come in cv, the copper bounds. These have an orange tone and a slight Brown to tan background. Color copper Brown is brown with warm and copper tones with exceptional gray coverage. You can use these with some of the other fashion Reds. Here, if the client wants to still maintain her read her his red look, you have for CB clove a 5 CB sandalwood 6 CB cognac and the cognac actually is a slight purple tone nuit. If you look at it carefully, this is the rbv Ruby Brown shades or the red Brown. As we know it. This is brown with a cool red violet, with cool red violet tones, an exceptional, great coverage. So you got your red violet tone and a tan background. Color and they come in 3 RB, which is a mahogany shade, 5rb manzanita, and I find that if you mix these with some of the fashion Reds, you still get the same result on 100 % white hair. I'Ve used it from one client who wanted to maintain her red in Auburn and we still got the same effect without having her roots turn too dark or too hot. So you got now your fashion shades, which are no background. Color, you can see. The background is completely white here with an orange tone. These are your red oranges, which is a dirty word in hairdressing. In the minute you say, Orange I've seen clients literally freak out in the chair. So I always say it's Auburn. Red orange is a light to dark red orange. No added Brown. You have 5ro paprika, 6ro, bonfire, 7ro mango or may marigold. Sorry marigold. If you mix the marigold with the 7r, a flame red, you actually get a very nice purpley red result, and sometimes I find these shades aren't accurate your there might be a little bit deeper or more vibrant, depending on your level and developer used. If you mix these with 30 or 40 volume on darker bases, you can get that nice fashioned red result as opposed to just going 20 volume, because you're, exposing more warmth and you're, depositing a lot of warmth. So just know that for creating fun Reds my personal favorites love. These two shades is the R series, the red these are intense red, with increased tonal depth and no added round. So you get a pure red. So you get your pure read from a gentle. I mean a non gentle: a cool, intense purpley, read to a medium read into us very, very bright red. You have for our lava 6r rocket fire, one of my favorites and that's the one I have in my hair. Now seven are flame. This one is a really cool red to mix around with the red violet, and these Reds are very cool toned. They may look like they're pure red. They are kind of a pea red but they're actually slightly on the cooler base, especially the 6r, and it comes up like with a slight purple hue in the light. So, finally, in the last of the permanent shades, you have the rvv red violets. These are cooler red, violet tones and no add Brown, so you have like a nice purpley wine color and you have for our V Cabernet and 5rv scarlet. The 5rv scarlet is one of my favorites and it mixes perfectly with the shades eq 5rv. You get a perfect match. You can mix this with the ARS or the red oranges to get a nice brighter red result with control of the warmth, because the violet will tone out some of the warmth in the red or the red orange shade. So finally, you have your fashion gel blonde series. I think these this line used to have more shades back in the day when I've used it. We had a lot more of the options, but I think they wanted to cut it down. For this version, you have your blonde series v violet for control of yellow and your blonde series B for control of orange e tones mix them together and you get a pearl which controls both and you can use this at a starting level. 5, because you'll lift the hair 5 levels, so you have everything from your color wheel, color wheel. All that theory is the same know. The color families read all of this: the technical information and the basics. Alright, so sorry, my camera ended up, stop filming. I did not realize that I was at the last 10 seconds technologies we looked at sometimes, but I was saying that I really wish you guys. The best with the formulations make sure you read the technical information. Technical information is everything that you need to know as a colorist and that's what I always tell people. My big crazy secret is to knowing all this. I do a crazy thing called reading when you go through and you read everything first, I was lucky enough to have a cosmetology instructor that stressed that and the importance of actually going through and reading the literature highlighting it. If you need to highlight it because all of us hairdressers are dyslexic to a certain extent, I truly believe that, and we find helpful to highlight something or circle it, so you don't get lost or if you want to make important points pop out, you can get All the information they need here, I always think it's important for a salon owner to photocopy the technical information and hand it out to new stylists, a nice packet of information, and you can go and go over it with them when you're either doing training with them Or if they want to enhance their own color knowledge, color manuals will are important because they prevent you from making mistakes. So a lot of errors that I've seen stylists make behind the chair when they take the color gels and they take the color fusion developer. Think they're one in the same and they mix them and they have a giant mess and heaven forbid if they put that on a client, the color doesn't turn out right. It'S got like you know leopard spots or it ends up too warm too dark. Not the right shade it's because they didn't follow the directions they give. You case study examples in here to help you formulate it tells you everything with how to mix it. The timing, the lift. I will say that, regardless to the developer that you use, you can still process for up to 45 minutes for great coverage. So that's my own little bit of advice not to necessarily go against this, but when you've been doing hair color. As long as I have you kind of know, that 45 minutes is the standard for good coverage. That'S for, if you want pure gray coverage results, so I do like this line. I think that it is great I'm kind of bummed they got rid of it. I'M nervous to try the color gels lacquers, because I don't know how it's gon na turn out. I'Ve heard it's a little bit more translucent. It'S a little bit more similar to shades EQ. If that's even possible, because this one was and they've made all of the names and the numbers this same as shades, you can get a perfect tonal result so other than that. I will say too that it's interesting how the neutral are the natural ash, the nine and a platinum ice is the exact same shade as the Oh 9v and shades EQ. So that's really interesting. That shades a cue, even though it's a violin, it has no background. Color comes out near identical to that. I also want to say that these are great for blondes. If you want blondes with cool tone results, please use the color gels. If you have any left, because you get that extra added pigment that will cancel out at warmth compared to using a translucent color, that might expose a little bit too much if you're lifting in more than two levels, so color gels is well worth the investment. I did use the pH Bhandar and I am in love with this. If you add this to your color services, you can actually increase the price of your color. I always increase my prices and I use this because it's a built in price like a non-negotiable option like if a client tells we don't put peach bonder I'll, say: oh no, don't worry and then I usually end up doing anyway or I'll explain to them. This is what you really should do, ideally, that this pH Bhandar is insurance for their hair. This will prevent hair breakage, it's a Bhandar, and if you put this in the color, it makes the color adhere to the hair color better and you can get really good great coverage results. What using this there's no need to bump developer and no change in mixing consistency and no compromise on processing time and it maintains lift and it helps to increase visible shine, a touchable, smoothness, better elasticity and helps reduce the breakage and increase strength. It'S a power of pH science, really good product, it's very similar to the other big Bhandar out there, but I definitely recommend using this and any of your color services. You can make money as a stylist, but also help keep your clients integrity of their hair and when they start seeing if their hair feels a lot better after using it it's more stronger. It'S vibrant they'll, put down the box and I'll ideally stay with you as a client, because getting clients to stay with you is one of the toughest things you'll deal with in this industry and color gels. Great product comment down below. If you have any questions and color gels that didn't touch on I'm a little tired, so I think I covered everything that I needed to. If I didn't, let me know down below, and I also want to know from you guys have you guys, tried redkin color gels if you're an older style, I'd love to hear your own experience using it as a line has evolved. So, like a comment hit that subscribe button down below so I continue to make, I can continue to make more awesome content for you guys. I am really excited to be doing all these videos this summer, so I'm super grateful for that. So have a great summer. Everyone and have fun with experimenting with color gels.