Permanent Hair Color And The Levels Of Lift You Can Achieve

Hello and welcome i'm chris, and this is the hair tutorial channel and on this week's video we're going to be looking at natural depths of bass and how this will affect your choice when picking a color to use. We'Ll. Also, look at the levels of lift that you'll be able to achieve with permanent hair color on natural hair. Now this will be a series of videos and on this one, we're looking at bases and levels of lift. We'Re then going to look at the levels of lift and the effect that that will have on your tonal choice and we're then going to look at how to counteract the tone that may be required, or you may want to neutralize now. Remember there is one fundamental rule when using a permanent hair color, and that is we're always looking at natural hair, because tint won't lift tin. So if the hair already has tint on it, you're not going to be able to use a tint to make it any. Lighter you could add tone to it or you could go darker and again we'll discuss this in this series of videos. So, for now we are purely talking about natural hair with no color on it and if you want more videos with tips and tricks on hairdressing, don't forget to like subscribe and hit the notification button. Now, depending on what color brand, some color companies will use letters on numbers. However, every company for how light or how dark someone's hair is naturally will use a numbering system with one being the darkest and 10 being the lightest. Now, how light or how dark somebody is is dependent on how much melon they have in their hair. Now i'm not going to go into too much scientific detail in this, as you can get the information online or out of a book. But what is important to remember when we're looking at hair is the three main colors you'll find present in the hair, so from bases one to five. There will be a lot of red present in the hair from bases six to eight. There will be a lot of copper present in the hair and from bases nine to ten. There will be a lot of yellow present in the hair, so the first thing you're gon na need to do is establish how light or how dark your client is on this scale of one to ten, as this will determine your color palette. Now, if your client is going darker than their natural color, this is not a problem. However, if your client wishes to go lighter, this is when you'll really need to identify the base that they are on now. Sometimes it can be really difficult now, luckily, with a swatch like this you're able to hold it up against the hair, it can then become difficult because you can get stuck between colors, depending on the tone. That'S in the hair and again i will cover that in the next video, but using this simple guide will allow you to quickly narrow down to at least an option that you then may have to get the extended color chart to see it now. As i said at the beginning of the video, if your client wants to go darker than their natural color or simply wants to add some tone to their hair, then that's not a problem. It'S when your client wants to lift their natural color that you will then need to identify which developer you're going to use you'll have to always look at your manufacturer's instructions for this, as there are slight variance in manufacturing, and this becomes more aware when we look At tones as a general rule, 3 or 10 volt is used, grey coverage or one level of lift six percent or 20 volt is used for two levels of lift nine percent or 30 volt is used for three levels of lift and 12 or 40. Volt is used for four levels of lift unless it's with a high lifting which again i will come to in another video as we're merely talking about bases one to ten on this video. So if you establish that your client is a base, six - and you just want to lift one level on natural hair, then you're going to use your three percent 10 volt, two levels, your six percent, 20 volt, etc. Now, although you can use up to 12 40 volt to lift four levels of lift, you are going to be pushing the color to its maximum ability. So what this means is you are likely to bring out more of that natural underlying tone within the hair. So if they have very red hair, it's going to bring that red out if they have very copper hair, it's kind of going to show more of that copper and if they have yellow hair, it's going to show more of that yellow or gold. Now this is when we look at tone which will be the next video now on the reverse side of this, there can be an issue when you want to go darker, so, for instance, let's say our client is very naturally light base, 7, 8, 9 or 10, And they decide that they would like a red color put into their hair. Now that lightness of bait has no natural red pigment in it. So when you apply a red to their hair, you will get a very bright vibrant red because they are on a very light base. So, therefore, it gets to show that color really vibrantly, however, because there are no red pigments. Naturally, within the hair, red will tend to fade off light hair, much quicker than it will off a darker base, because the darker base has red pigment already within the hair, and you will find this a lot on naturally, light hair or hair that has been pre-lightened With bleach, where clients want vibrant colors such as reds, coppers, purples or blues, all of these colors will be vibrant because those pigments are not present in the hair. They tend to fade off the hair very, very quickly. A quick recap: you're looking to establish your clients, natural color, between bases one to ten. This will identify how much lighter you can go. You can use three, six, nine or twelve percent to lift them up to four left. The more you lift, the more you will bring out these unwanted natural tones, the red, the copper or the yellow. So if you found this video helpful, don't forget to like subscribe and on the next video i'll, discuss the tones within the hair and how we can use these either to help us deposit color or how we can help them to neutralize these unwanted colors. That we get when we lift the hair, you