Hair Color Formulation Examples

Oh hello and welcome back to my channel today. I wanted to give an example of a simple formulation. So when a client sits in our chair most times, they've come from another salon where they have previous color on their hair. So we need to determine what their natural color is their percentage of gray, and we need to try to match up what they have on their ends. Most of the time by the time they're ready for a retouch, their ends have gotten warmer. Then they start it out so something that is a common mistake that people make is when a client is new to them, trying to match what is existing on the ends when it may not be what the client originally wanted. So here's an example on this swatch. This is a level 7 swatch that is really warm, so this client may have left the chair of their former colorist happy with a balance more BG level 7 without this much warmth, but she goes to the beach she spends time out in the Sun she's blow Drying her hair, she's flat ironing, it's you know hitting all of the elements and it starts to get really more. So it's important when that client comes in to have the conversation of. Is this the exact color that you were looking for, or has this faded most clients don't know the difference, so they're not going to volunteer that information and because it's warm it's harder to determine what the level is when it's warm most of your level finders. This is my tool that I can't live without when I teach most of your level finders when they show the natural levels they're very cool and ashy. So when you go to place this to find where it sits along the levels, you're not going to get an exact match, so something that I have started doing and as a fun little trick is going by the exposed remaining pigment side of the swatch chart. Where everything is super warm, then, when you separate this and go along the way you can see it matches more perfectly to a warm swatch. So this lens we're in between your level, six and seven, so we're gon na call it six and a half. So if a client has six and a half warm, it didn't want it to be warm, and you determine that her natural color is a five most people land in that four five, six area of natural color, it's very rare that you have a level eight or Level: nine natural, unless you're you know in Sweden, but mostly for in that four five, sometimes six level, and it's all by individual opinion as well. Some people will look at me and say that I'm a six. I consider myself a five, so it depends on if it's a European level system and American level system. But let's say that it's a natural five and we determined that she has faded out she's faded out six and a half. So we're only lightening one and a half levels. What we've been taught by manufacturers and by beauty school is that if you're looking for a six and a half, you would mix a tube of level seven and a tube of level six, and that would create your six and a half. However, it's not true you're, not coloring, on a blank piece of paper, you're coloring on top of colored background, so you're taking a pigment at level five and putting a chemical on it. That'S going to lift it any time you lift, hair natural hair. It is going to expose warmth so for you to get. If this were to be her desired level, she wanted the warmth. You can simply use a neutral on that formula and it's going to get super warm because what happens when you lift someone between a five and a six. Naturally, this is what comes out in the hair when you go up one level you're getting super orange. So if she wants that warm result, a simple natural will bring out that warmth. But if you want to fight that warmth, then you want to go across the color wheel and you want to use the opposite, but not only that you don't want to use a tube of six and seven. They are not going to get you there where they're going to get. You is halfway in between both so you're going to take your that's justice, a seven to make it easier. Math your level seven tubed, applied on level five hair is 7 plus 5 is 12 divided by 2 is 6, so a full level. 7 2, with 20 volume on level 5 air is only going to get you to 6 and 6 is deeper and warmer than this client wants to be so, in order to formulate the way that I teach and the way my color hair, you want to take That desired level multiply it by 2. So let's do 7 times. 2 is 14 minus 5. Being the natural level tells you that you actually need a level 9 tube of color to be able to reach this six-and-a-half almost 7 result, and I can show you on these swatches the finished product. So this is level 7 n and 25. This is what you were taught in beauty school to use, and you can see that that did not bring it up late enough. The next watch is level 7 n + 30 volume. The only difference between the 20 and the 30 is that more gray was left behind this one is level 7 and 40 volume and again, the only difference that you can see visibly to the eye is more gray was left behind it's a tiny bit later, but Not really and then this final swatch is the level 9 with 20 volume, and if I put this up against level finer next to the level 9, I'm sorry the level seven you you can see our it's hard to put everything up to the camera. This level nine matches the level seven on that level. Finder it's that cool Oishi level, seven that you were looking for, but you had to use the level nine color to get there. So you may be watching this scratching your head and saying what what is she talking about? I'Ve been coloring her for 33 years, this math works and it makes your job behind the chair so much easier. If you want to learn more about this or your, I totally confused, you please reach out to me subscribe to my youtube channel. Follow me on my coffee, chats on expert color solutions on Facebook and check out all of my online education at wwx per color. Solutions.Com talk to you soon,