How To Make A Wig Like A Pro For Beginners On Sewing Machine - Step By Step | Pinkandnatural.Com

In this video, I will show you how to make a lace closure wig on a sewing machine. Please visit my website for more information: https://pinkandnatural.com/

How to sew on a sewing machine tutorial: https://www.udemy.com/course/how-to-se...

Supply list: https://pinkandnatural.com/blogs/news/...

✅ Timestamps:

Intro: 0:00

Supply List: 3:01

Head Measurements and Mapping: 6:42

Mapping and Placement: 12:24

Sewing On Closure: 27:59

Double: 46:04

Sewing On The Wefts: 52:36

Cutting The Excess Cap: 1:10:32

Deep Wave Wig: 1:12:10

Video Title: How To Make A Wig Like A Pro For Beginners On Sewing Machine - Step By Step

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Hello, i'm stormy styles owner of pink and natural hair company and today i'm going to be showing you how to make a closure wig on the sewing machine. So some suggestions i have for this video. I would review the video a couple times from the beginning to the end, to make sure that you can familiarize yourself with all the steps and that you prepared for everything that's going to come in each person. So after you review all of the techniques that are demonstrated then review the supply list to make sure that you have everything. If not it'll be listed right below this video next, then you want to review the supply list just to make sure that you have everything. If not we'll add our amazon list, where you can obtain everything, that's needed for this class and it'll be right below this video. Once you do that, you know, then, if you want to come back and review the video one more time, that's great to get everything in your head so that when you start sewing on your own and everything you'll be ready to just kind of flow. Through the steps, don't rush yourself? Don'T worry if it's not perfect the first time, don't worry if you mess up on a track or the closure or any that's what your seam ripper is for. So if you make any mistakes um, you can go back in. You can remove the track or you can remove the closure and you can just start sewing again. Um, so practice makes perfect, so don't be too hard on yourself. Don'T rush yourself just take your time, even if you do each part in the video on a certain day, maybe in the morning maybe um the next day or maybe um in the morning and then in the afternoon, whichever you feel is best for you, but don't Try to do everything at one time um, and i just want you to know that um. You know when i started and i made my first wig on the sewing machine. I told myself and i had to redo it about three or four times, but after that i still had some challenges, but but after that, by the time i made my second or third wig, i was good to go and shortly after that i started teaching, because I was like wow. This is something that i want to share with other women who are at home, taking care of their children and would like to work from home. So um, you know that's for another story of how i got into wig making, but you know please enjoy yourself. Please do your best and let me know if you have any questions, just drop them in the comments below alright. Before we begin with the supply list, i would like to say if you are new to sewing, please review the tutorial in the description box that teaches you how to use a simple sewing machine before you start your wig making journey so for this wig making class You'Ll need a closure 5x5 or 4x4 6x6 7x7, whichever one you desire, and at least three bundles of hair, you may use all of them. You may not, but it's always better to have more than enough than not enough hair. So the first thing that you'll need is a simple sewing machine. I like the singer brand because it seems to be a lot more durable then you'll need some weaving thread for your hand. Sewing next you're going to need sewing machine thread. Then you'll want to get a wide presser foot because it makes it a lot easier for you to see the tracks. When you're sewing double tracks, then you want to get heavy duty sewing needles for your machine. You want to get the eight the one that ends with the 18.. Next is going to be your canvas head. You can get the 22 inch, which is a standard, or you can also get one that fits your head size if your head size is smaller or if it's larger, then the adjustable elastic band. I like to get these as well as the standard elastic, because you know, depending on the size of the closure, you may need to stretch it a little farther, so the elastic roll is always good and then you're going to need your metallic markers for your mapping. You'Re going to need your t pins and hand sewing needles for sewing on your closure or your frontal and then we're at our caps. I like three different caps. The dome cap is really good because it has a lot of stretch to it. The next one i like is the mesh dome cap, which is an extra large, because, if you're larger than a 22 inch circumference, these are always good and then the standard mesh dome caps are good for 22 inches and below. Lastly, these are some quick snipping scissors that i like to use, they're really sharp and they cut the thread evenly when you're sewing to make it easy to put back in the needle okay. So the first thing that you want to do when you get a wig order is make sure that you have the measurements of your clients head. You can ask them to take the measurements with a sewing tape measure or you can do them yourself. You just want to make sure that their hair is in a state that they're going to wear it under the wig. So if it's going to be cornrowed and it flat to the surface, you want to make sure that they're getting their measurements with the cornrows in or, if they're, going to wear it in a bun or something like that. But don't measure over top of the bun, of course, so the main measurements that i like to use are number one: the circumference of the head number two from forehead to nape of the neck number five from temple to temple around the back of the head. The obstetrical, lobe and number six for the nape of the neck, so those are all the measurements that that i use in order to make my glueless lace closure. Wigs that you can use to make your wigs. It'S very easy to do your mapping on this is one of the caps that i use and what we're going to do. First is we're going to take those head measurements that we did and we're going to transfer them onto the blocking, so that we can make sure that we have the right measurements when we do our mapping? Okay. So when i do my mapping for my wigs, i only use four out of the six measurements, and so the first one is going to be temple to temple and remember, mines was 17 inches. Okay, so right now the cap does not reach over to that point. So i'm going to have to take a pen and i'm going to stretch it over to that marker, okay, and so from that point i'm going to go back over here again. I notice it's upside down, but you still know what 17 looks like and come back around here. I'M gon na leave that point there. Okay! So now, if i come back over here to where we begin i'll start from this side - and that's one inch come around the occipital lobe and i'm ending at 17, 17 inches okay and then we already have the 22 circumference. So we don't have to do that because we're using a 22 head block the next one is going to be from your hairline to the nape and that is 14 inches. So i'm going to take this pin, grab the whip cap wig cap, i'm going to grab the wig cap and bring it down to 14., that's 14 inches, and then i'm going to do the nape across which is five inches. So i'm going to pull it somewhere around here, because it's not right at this line. It'S a little beyond that point. I'M gon na mark that down for the one inch come back over here, get my five inch point. I'Ve already had a pen right there, so i can see exactly where to insert it, and this is how i'm gon na bring this one down a little bit. I can see that it's a little uneven. Okay, bring that right down to the same level, 5 inches across 14 from hairline to the nape 17 from temple to temple around the obscepical low 22 inch circumference, okay, guys! So now. What we're going to do is we're going to start to map out our lines for where we're going to sew our wefts all right and we're going to do double wefts in this class, and we want to begin right behind the closure we're using a 5x5 closure. Our closure is already placed okay, and so the first thing that we're going to do is the outline around the closure. So we're sewing our closure on by hand, but i still like to have a outline for the mapping. So i'm drawing right around the closure and using this as my guide, this video will show you how to map double wefts one inch apart. If you want to sew single wefts, you'll need to make your wefts a half an inch apart, okay, and so the simplest way to map out for your double wefts is going to be i'm going to take this measurement, and we know we're going to need at Least three bundles of hair, depending on how long your client's hair is how long your bundles are. So just remember that the longer the bundles, the more hair you need. So i'm going to take the t pen - and i want to place this a little over to the side, because we're going to use this for our guide and we're going to do our lines about an inch apart. Okay, so we're going to do about eight or nine lines for our guy. This is going to be the first one we're making about an inch apart. Okay, so i have one two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight i'm using this. Second one for the two. The second um dot, because the second line - because i made a mistake right here so yeah one, two, three four: five: six: seven, eight, nine, okay and so i'm going to bend the big head block down a little bit. Because i want to make sure that i can see my guides and from here i'm just going to go straight across turn it around as needed. So you can see where you are making sure that your lines are in a proper way between each other and proper. Spacing just do your best, this hello do do so when we get to the top and just ignore this dot right here we're going to go up to this one. Okay. What i like to do is i'm going to come around we're going to kind of swerve around and leave this right adjacent to the closure, because i like to sew and seal the closure with that last stitch, i'm sorry i like to sew and seal the closure With that last weft, so we're going to bring this last long, weft all the way around to the end of the closure, i'm going to do the same thing on this side, lean it right around. Okay, we're going to take this line right here that we're going to make and we're just going to go straight across all right, and so, if you see the difference from where i made the outline of the closure and where i did this last line, it's going To probably be a gap right here, so what we'll do is we'll take our last weft and we'll seal right across we'll sew it right across we'll take our last web and we'll sew it right across the back of the closure to secure it even more and To close up the space, okay, let me go over these lines a little bit more and that's how you map out your wefts and so the way that we place our closure is that we want. You want to make sure that when you place this, it is about a half an inch below the hairline, so you're gon na give them a little bit more room when they're wearing the cat so that it doesn't go behind their hairline when they wear it. If we place it right on their hairline, then they're not going to have anything to um. You know to cover their hairline, so you want to come down a little bit further because some people may have willow's peaks. Like myself. Some people may have, you know a hairline, that's really far up, and so you want to make sure that their natural hairline is not busting through the unit or if they fit it. It starts to and it'll start to move back too. So you know you don't want their hairline to show through, because the wig is moving back because it's not fitted right. So i'm coming down about a half an inch below the hairline. As you can see these three lines here, this middle line is going to represent the center of the face where the nose and everything is so you want to make sure that you kind of get it as even as possible. So this is a five by five closure, so we may expand a little bit more past the um out the but sidelines gon na stretch it okay to make sure that's centered to the best of our ability, i'm not going by that part. That was there, because that was not the actual center stretch it over a little bit more okay, and then you can see you can pull it down and once you come back up, you'll be able to see where the hairline stops at okay. So this is sliding down, but when i pull it up because i haven't positioned it in the top, yet i can look through here and see that this may be a little bit below. I don't know if you can see it, but it may be a little bit below um a half an inch, i'm going to move back up just a little bit and some people go about an inch, but just don't really go over an inch. So if i get my measuring tape, you don't have to measure it out, but i'm just doing it for educational purposes. So this is about three quarters of an inch which is still okay, because when i go over here the way that it's framing the roundness of the head, when you come over a little further, it's going to get a little shorter. The distance is going to get smarter as it rents smaller as it rounds the head, so the center is about three-quarters of an inch around the size of the closure is about a half of an inch, so i am totally fine with that. So your next step is going to be so we can um. You can usually braid this i'm going to put a clip on here. Some people braid it down. I usually have this braid down, but i'm used to working. You know with the hair loose. So that's totally fine with me i'll, go ahead and put a clip on here. Okay, because i want you to be able to see that i'm going to grab these two sides right here, the back part of the closure and i'm going to stretch it back and we're going to spread and turn it to the side. So you can see so now, i'm taking this pin and i'm using it as an anchor and i'm stretching it because i'm holding this side as i'm stretching, because i want to spread it out, so it lays flat, i'm doing my best to lay it flat. All the way around, because you don't want one section or the side section or the back section, to have any bubbles in it. You don't you don't want it to look like that. You want it, you don't want it to look like that. You want it to be nice and flat, so i'm stretching it back and i'm spreading it over okay, because it's kind of rounded and square at the same time in the back. So that's one anchor over there, so i'm gon na push this all the way down. So it's nice and flat we're gon na come back. We'Re gon na do the same thing over here. Okay, so this side is going down flat as well, and then this side is flat too. So just check your work and make sure that your closure is nice and flat going around each side. You don't want any gap in the bubbles or anything like that. So this one is. This is good because, actually i still stretch it when i sew it and you'll see in the next video. However, i just want to go ahead and just give it just a little more flatness. We don't have any bubbling or anything this one, i'm gon na leave up right here, just for um. You know the anchor and sick, because this anchor is good. So if it's stretch right here when i sew it, i know that it's going to be nice and flat, but i don't want to stretch it so much that it's going to you know, put a little extra indentation in the closure. So i can still sew across here with this being elevated and then so i'll just turn this t pin and so around it so around and then take it out. Okay. But when i sew it, i'm going to pull a little put a little tension on that corner so to stay nice and flat. But this is good. So don't brush yourself with um placing a closure and everything, because sometimes if, if you're just beginning it may not come out um flat right away, i'm used to doing it and everything but um. You know you utilize. The three guidelines in the front for placement make sure that the front is at least about a half an inch away from the wig cap so that you can have um. You know the proper coverage for your client's hairline and just check your work as you go around when you are placing the back of the closure, make sure you spread it. You know in the opposite direction and flatten it down as you go and um. You know. Just make sure everything is nice and flat before you start sewing: okay, okay, so when you begin to sew on the closure? Okay, so when you begin to sew in the closure, you're not going to start when you're sewing by hand you're not going to start right at the end, i would suggest going back a little further from the beginning of the cap. So the knot is not at the end and it can come loose very easily. So, even though we're going to secure it on with the sewing machine um, i still like to put this practice in place just in case, so i start a little further back. You don't have to start as far back as i did. Maybe you know you could start, i'm probably about an inch back. You can start about a half an inch and i'm sew through the cap and through the closure and through the loop of the thread. Okay, you want to make sure that you do not sew the cap to the dome head, the canvas head. Okay, so i'm going to lift it up a little bit, i'm going under this thick elastic and i'm going to go through the cap through the closure and then through the loop. I'M sewing through the cap through the closure and through the loop of the thread. This is how you lock it in is how you lock your stitching pad to the closure to the loop, and i'm just going forward, i'm going to sew forward until i get to the end, and then i'm going to sew backwards and continue around you through the Cap to the closure, through the loop and i'll show you one little minor trick that i like to do. When my clients are wearing their closure units glueless. I will sew all the way to the end of the hair and i sew it to the cap, because what this does it gives it a nice flat, look when they install it and it holds it nice and secure, and nice and snug, because remember we left That half an inch space i'm going to remove this one, so i could continue sewing. This is just a little trick that i found that makes my glue. This wig stay on a little more secure and look a little more natural because it rounds the frames because it frames your face around your hairline. I can also remove this t-pin since i have a little more security. Yes, okay, so you see how it snugs right to the cap. It already has kind of like a natural lay okay, and now i'm going to go through this stitch, which is about four stitches back, pull that through go one more time, a little further back and remember we're going to sew right over top of this. At the end, so no worries about that. This is just to make sure we don't have that little knot at the end of the closure sitting on someone's head and then they accidentally cut it and they could possibly cut too much and then the closure isn't secured anymore. So i'm going to continue to sew around okay guys. So now we've come to the end of our closure. Let me get this clip, so i can just move the hair out of the way and we're going to do the same thing we did on the other side, so we're going to sew all the way to the end and lift up the band, because it's a Little thick here we're gon na sew through the cap through the closure, through the loop through the cap through the closure and through the loop. So i just want to show you something really quick. So this is why it's important to still do the outline for your um closure, because if it gets adjusted or the cat moves around or anything you know exactly where to sew it at so i know that i'm going to sew this right over top of this Guideline and we're going to sew we're going to do our little trick. We'Re sewing all the way to the end, all the way to the end where the hair is i'm going to remove this t pen all the way to the end it's getting a little stuck because of the elastic band. That'S inside and that's okay, keep going and, as you can see, we are at the end. So now we're going to sew backwards. A couple stitches: let's go back one more stitch and then we're going to go through this loop here, because we're ending off our stitching. We'Re going to go through the loop of the thread, we're going to pull it through one time. Tighten it up, go through it again, pull it through again, tighten it up and that's it trim it on the end, make sure you don't trim too close so that you're not cutting your knot, and now you are ready to sew on your wefts now you are Ready to sew on your wefts okay! So now we're going to sew on our double wefts and when sewn on your double webs, you want to make sure that they are not on top of each other, that one is a little below the other so that they can lay nice and flat on your Wig cap, okay, so i'm going to line them up, i'm going a little bit past the beginning, because i don't want the edge of the wipes to slide out. So i'm going to sew forward a little i'm pinching them together, because sometimes they slide down. So, as you can see how they started to separate here, i'm going to move this up. I want to go right back in so then we'll lift it up a little bit because it's just a little stuck in the groove, lock it in and i'm kind of pinching them lined up together. Just take your time fresh. If you make a mistake, if the track is too low or anything just get, your seam ripper go across you're, using a zigzag stitch and just take the stitching out and start it over. Okay, it's better to make sure that it's done correctly. So you won't have any issues continue on until you get all the way to the end, so this okay, so before you begin sewing, you want to make sure that your closure is faced on the outside, at least until you start getting used to making your wigs And we're going to start at the bottom on this first line and we're going to sew right around this curve, we're just going to follow the line right around okay, so our tracks are double and we're gon na lay them down. Lay down our wig cap, nice and flat, just some important notes i like to go over before you start sewing. So the first thing is that you want to make sure you do not stretch your wig cap, because if you stretch it too much, then your cap will expand and you'll start to have a lumpy rose in your cap, which will stick through the hair. That'S covering it up, okay, make sure that the hair and any other part of the cap is not under any area where you are sewing so make sure the closure is not under the cab. Make sure any of the hair is not under the cap. Make sure that another part of the cap is not under the cap before you start sewing. So we're going to start by laying our weft down right on top of our line that we mapped out and when you begin you're going to sew forward about a half an inch and then you're going to sew backwards. Another half an inch and then you're going to sew forward again, so you can do that about three times so forward back and then forward and then continue all the way across until you get to the end. When you reach the end, then you're going to do the same thing, you're going to sew forward one time backwards, one time and then forward again. So this is going to lock in the end of your weft at the end, cut the weft and the thread and begin. The next row do and now you're going to repeat this process for all the rows that go from edge to edge when you get up to the higher rows. Make sure that you do not sew over the closure. Stop at the end of the line that you mapped out on the cap, so yes, my so now we are at the top of the cap. As you can see, i went ahead and sewed on the first weft for this section here we're going to sew strictly from left to right. So it's going to be like a straight line across remember this is a tricky area, so make sure that you are not sewing over top of anything under the cap and make sure that you don't sew across the other wefts that are at the end of each Line, that's very important because you want to make sure that your cap doesn't come out with lumps in it. You want all your wefts to lay nice and flat. So, let's begin always remember so forward once backwards once and then forward again and all the way across at the end of each weft at the beginning and at the end of each do so. At this point, you will probably have a little more difficulty getting the wig under the presser foot, but don't worry here i am putting the cap under the presser foot in the open area, then repositioning it until i reach the line that i will sew across next. So go ahead and repeat this process until you have completed sewing across all the lines, make sure that you do not sew over top of the closure always sew around the closure. Don'T forget that when you start sewing, you want to go forward about a half of an inch and then go in reverse and then go forward all the way to the end and repeat the forward backward motion at the end of your weft. Just to make sure that you are locking in the stitch now when you reach the last weft that you're going to sew next to the closure, just make sure that you do not place the weft over top of the closure. You want it to be adjacent to it as if they are kissing each other, but not layered, over top of the closure, and when you sew you're going to sew in between the weft and the closure, because you're doing a zigzag stitch. This is going to make the weft lay flat and the closure and the weft are going to be attached to each other to seal up that space. So right here, i'm sewing to the end of my line that was mapped out. I'M not sewing over that open space. The reason is because the reason is because the track that is below the one we are sewing on now is from another area, and so that area, where that track is located is positioned in a way where it will be covered up by the closure. Now what happened is that when i did the mapping, the mapping was off just a little bit, but i was able to sew it down and position it below the closure, where i know that it would have good coverage and it would not be exposed. So, that's why it's so important to map out your tracks before you sew them on, because if anything gets unbalanced, you can still kind of keep a guide as you go along, and you know make sure that you have very good coverage and you don't go over Top of the area just because it's open and cause the wig to become a little bulky and kind of get bumps in it and everything, but this is still going to lay really flat and plus it's curly hair. So it's going to have a little volume to it, but even if it was straight hair, i know that it would still lay flat. I sew my wigs like this all the time. As you can see, there is a little opening on the other side, but they're still really good coverage. So the last thing that we're going to do is cut off the extra cap material. So what you want to do is you want to grab your scissors and we're going to cut right around the stitching, do not cut on the stitching that we did you're going to cut around it. Make sure that you are not cutting the lace. That'S under the cap because then that's not going to be a good thing, so just continue to cut around the stitching cut, alongside the stitching make sure that you can see the stitching so that you don't accidentally cut any of the stitching. Okay. Did i say that enough times all right so continue to cut around until you get to the end, and once you are done, that's it and poof voila your wig is complete. So this is a complete closure. Wig. You made a closure wig with me today. Hopefully, you know you really enjoyed making the wig if it did not come out exactly the way that you wanted to don't worry. If this is your first time, it's not going to be perfect. Practice makes perfect, so keep practicing come back and review this video again. If you need to, but just whatever you do, just be patient with yourself take your time and do your best by the time you get to your second or third unit. You will be a pro you

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