Blending Gray Hair With Highlights And Lowlights - Full Foiling Technique #Foilhighlights

What'S up and welcome back to my YouTube channel and if you're new here my name is Marella Minnelli and no, I forgot to record a freaking intro video for this video, so we're just gon na Dive Right In so, if you like, educational content, like I'm gon Na show you in this video make sure you like And subscribe, so you don't miss any of this literally free education, I'm giving you so this client here she had lots of highlights lots of bleached highlights and I'm really sad to say that this last job was From a stylist that I personally know - and she normally gets high, lift highlights done, but for whatever reason, the stylist used Lightner on her and it is not a good look on my client because she actually has pretty white porcelain skin. So if you can imagine how washed out this actually makes her look, there's no depth, there's no Dimension. So that's what we're going to be doing today is adding all of that depth back in while bringing back those high lift, highlights back and blending in her gray. All at the same time, all right so in the color room - and I have quite a bit to go over and kind of redo on my client's hair. So the last time she got her hair done was with another stylist and she just wasn't too happy with the lightning process. She feels like way too blonde. So what I'm going to be doing is going back to our old high lift color, which I am excited about, because high lift can do an amazing job of lift and deposit all in one step, but because she's so blonde. I need to go back in and add in some depth, so the way I'm going to do that is by low lighting her, especially in the interior, because we need a lot of depth on the underside in order for those highlights to kind of pop and give The illusion of some ribbons kind of happening: we basically want her natural gray to kind of like blend into this blonde. So that way, her Grays don't look so gray right. She wants to add a little bit more warmth, so she loves a high lift with a natural gold. That'S typically what we do believe we do 30 and 40. I'M gon na use uh look at her notes really fast, but as far as the low light is concerned, sorry, I'm like looking up here because this is where my color bar is at okay, so finally decided on the formula I'm going to be using the ultralift In ice as well as the natural, so this is how I'm going to make the natural gold - and I want to mix this up one to two. With 30 volume developer, the 30 volume is going to give you the most control possible, but because it's going to lift it is going to expose some warmth and the underlying pigment. So that's where the ice is going to come into play. So I want to enhance the warmth and the gold, but also neutralize it a little bit. This is why I'm gon na add these two together in one formula and then for her low light, I'm going to be using 10n with 8B, so the B is more of like a beige tone, so the natural is going to have you know a nice Natural End result with that natural light, reflection that comes through on natural hair and the B is just to kind of beige it out just a little bit. So again, still you know enhancing warmth a little bit it with the end, but beiging it out. So I love the B shades are just so rich and creamy, alright guys. So this is how I start a lot of my hairline highlights and if you watch a lot of my videos, you'll see that I've usually start out with this V section right here and even though I'm trying to put in a lot of depth for this client. She does want to see some blonde around her face, so I'm going to go ahead and maintain that plus you can see the root regrowth in this area is a little intense. So I kind of want to even this up a little bit and soften it as well, and I'm going to do that by using this comb, which is a Dreamweaver from framar, and the way that I like to use. It is in this case of blending. I'M going to take that entire section and weave it with the comb, so this is going to pre-highlight it. For me, this is like the medium to thicker chunk weave, I would say - and overall it's gon na soften that really harsh chunk of blonde, that she's kind of has in this hairline area. We want to make this really soft and subtle, so the best way that I love to highlight is by flipping my foil up towards the head, and this is such a cool hack. If you can get over the learning curve of it by knowing how to fold the foil and that's because the head is a much more flatter area than the bend of the neck, so this is why I love highlighting this way. It just makes it so much easier. So if you've tried this foiling hack before and you love it or maybe you hate it or you're going through a little learning curve. I would love to know down below and if you're new to foiling, and you want to learn more about the, why behind foil placement technique and the effects that they create. Please join me for some in-person education, I'm offering three different, foiling master classes and hands on Workshop. You guys so excited about this class because you seriously will walk away feeling confident in everything, from foil application, processing the formulation and really ready to tackle any highlight. Look. Your client desires to learn more about this, foiling master class and Hands-On Workshop, be sure to check out the link in the description down below now back to this hair tutorial. So, as you can see, I just to get this highlight started around the back hairline. I'M doing two back-to-back highlights, so there's not a terrible amount of hair in between these foils. As a matter of fact, you can see for that next section, I'm just highlighting that entire chunk of slice, so this is about a quarter inch wide thick highlight where I'm just blending this in and that's how I'm going to get the ultimate blend, especially using this High lift hair color, I'm not so worried about the saturation piece, because I already have the lift and deposit working for me in this formula. That'S why I love using high lift when possible and then, of course, to marry these two sections together. I'M now going to do another set of two back-to-back highlights and doing this sectioning right here. This is basically outlining the entire back frame so when she wears her hair up you're going to see those highlights kind of Pop through all right. So here is my six foil hairline highlight placement. This is literally my go-to for almost every single client that I have and now we're going to add in the depth in the interior. So I'm basically assessing exactly my clients needs for the look that she wants. I want to keep it bright on the outside, but we'll need to add the depth on the inside. That'S what she is lacking right now. There were just too many highlights put in before so now. We'Re gon na deepen this up, but here's a hack you're not going to pull through this low light all the way down to the ends, we're just adding it in on the top and blending it into the ends, leaving them out. So that way, it goes from a dark into a light. This is how you're going to create that more subtle, soft depth that we want to create, so it looks like she's, been getting highlights and leaving some depth inside for as much hair. As my client has, this technique actually is not going to require an absorbent amount of foils because she already has enough blonde. I'M not looking to touch up so much of that until we get towards the top. So for this next few sections, I'm very focused on adding in the depth and creating some shapes within this as well. So, for example, for this section here, that's horizontal that I'm mirroring the two side sections my diagonal box for this section, I'm basically creating an inverted V section, so I'm just bringing down that that dark towards the center and also leaving the ends out. So you really want to be purposeful and think in the terms of Balayage on how things grow out and the way that the hair is going to fall. That'S how you're going to be able to understand not only the direction of where your foil is placed, but also the placement of the color as well. So, for example, you can see how I'm bringing this low light in a little deeper towards the interior and keeping the brighter pieces towards the outside. This is naturally how we like to see our highlights appear, especially in the interior of the head. We want to mimic the brighter pieces towards the outside, and this is very true even for our blondes, our brunettes, and that's where the tone and everything else comes into play. Your form formulation. But you can see here that she has an overall really beautiful natural base, and this is why I chose to use the high lift in addition to the demi-permanent. Once I get closer to the parietal Ridge. This is where I'm going to start to introduce my high lift. So this is the exact section where I started: adding in that lift and deposit all in one step and then I'm starting on the same pattern with those diagonal backs and my horizontals. But this is where it starts to change. Also, not only am I adding in the high lift, but right behind this high lift, I'm going to add in the depth that we need to create again. This is a very Prime area where a lot of people will split their hair, so this was imperative. You can almost kind of see that chunk of blonde that she's got going on here and that's what I want to diffuse. I want to blend that out. So hopefully you have the idea of the formula placement as well as my formula choice and where it goes, and why I'm going to continue on with this pattern right in the back section and then moving on to the front section. This is where I'm going to incorporate a lot more of the low light in. There is a reason for that. It'S because there was a ton more highlights placed than anything else here in the front now I kept the high lift formula right around her face frame, and I didn't film that just because my client wasn't super comfortable being on camera, so she was okay. Having a little Aaliyah thing kind of going on with her face half covered here, so that's totally cool. But overall the amount of ratio to highlight here did change. So we added two low lights to every one highlight I processed her for a full 45 minutes and that's because the high lift needs the full amount of time to lift and deposit so you're, just a general rule of thumb. If you are using high lift hair color, that is mixed up one to two mixing ratio with any developer. You do need a to process it for the full time and that's because it's first 30 minutes is Lifting and that last 15 minutes is depositing the neutralizing tone that you need. So that's really important that you do process for the full amount of time and, as a matter of fact, you can even leave it on longer. It is non-progressive in the sense that it will stop lifting, but it will continue to deposit some tone. So if you struggle with high lifts that just simply you know, are left too brassy or just not the right shade of blonde, you might need to either re-look at your formula or maybe even just process it longer. Overall, when I'm able to control the amount of lift and deposit in any process that I'm doing I'm going to go that route. So just remember you don't always have to use bleach lightener in all of your highlight applications. So right here, I'm adding in a brand new color for the first time that I've never tried and it's the Moroccan oil demi-permanent toners that they have. I believe it's called calypso and I'm just trying it out, because my team absolutely loves it and I'm gon na go ahead and elaborate a little bit more on this next clip. I finally got to try the brand new Moroccan oil demi-permanent Shades and my team has been using them this entire time, so we typically use either camera professional, Demi or the Moroccan oil, and I just haven't gotten around to trying the Demi permit from Moroccan oil. So I finally took the opportunity with this client to try it out so put in a little bit of 10 G um, and I had to mix up a total of how many ounces did. We do eight ounces a full bottle because she has a ton of hair and we're just processing it. I'M just gon na leave it on for like 10, 15 minutes or so just kind of watch it. I'M hoping that the 10g just kind of like gives a nice light reflection around the front hairline because she has lots of white and for all of the white gray hairs. It just gives like a hint of warmth because, as we age, we start to lose the warmth and color in our hair and our skin. So, adding a little bit of more warmth to her is going to give it a little bit more of a youthful appearance which I'm really excited about. I personally love her white hair. I think it looks beautiful on its own um, but she definitely likes a little bit of warmth. Light reflection, so fingers crossed 10g looks beautiful and here is the final result. I am totally obsessed with how this turned out. I think I got it to a really great place almost to what she had before, and this is the side by side I mean the results speak for itself. Look how much more blend. We got the dimension, the depth, the smoothness and overall, I don't know I'm kind of obsessed with how the Moroccan oil Calypso did the 10g. I mean it Blended. In her gray, we got a beautiful light reflection, it warmed up her natural white hairs and it also balanced out a lot of that brassy tone that she had when she first came in now. If there was something new that you learned or you loved, do you hate it? I would love to know Down Below in the comments and if you hate it, I don't know what to tell you, because this was, I think, a really kind of like seamless, color correction. If you will, I mean adding in the depth, I think I nailed it all right. So that's a wrap and I really hoped you enjoyed this really quick hair tutorial. If you did please comment down below, let me know what you liked about it. 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