Davines Color Zoom

So yeah well, of course, and so good morning, and thank you all so much for taking the time to join today. It'S fun to know that this is more of an international zoom. Today. I know that in the beginning we were chatting with some people from the Midwest and I think there are also some from the east. So it's nice to have all of you here so good morning, good afternoon, whatever it is for you. Thank you again. So what today is is basically a session to cover all of the davines color families. What I like to do - and it's probably just for me to keep it fresh as well, but I'm gon na kind of cover it in the context of literally where we are today. So I'm going to share some insights and some of my thoughts based on the fact of that we've had a bit of a pause and what will color look like coming back to work behind the chair, and so some things to consider. So those are going to be some subtopics that will incorporate into all of the different options for davines color. So with that, of course, based on your needs, your experience ask any questions and then you know we can kind of expand or if there is many questions and I move on to the next topic, so it really is going to be sort of you know, driven And - and you can kind of you know - take lead in where you'd like this to go to. So with that again just a reminder: this is a recorded session. The login is my phone number. So at any point, even if you don't want a recording, but later you want to have a chat or more information, I'm happy to have a chat with you and to further connect. So dhavernas has many different, color options. I think that this is such an incredible support for us, because how I like to look at it is in anything that you do. If you get very involved in and very passionate about, or even something that you take seriously, you want to have more than one option, because different situations arise and we often have different needs. So I often bring up the fact of you know if we're all to go and order a coffee we're going to order copies in different ways for our hair, our hair, texture and also our hair. You know styles and length and color everything is going be different and our hair is going to behave differently, but actually our bodies are going to behave differently, and one of the things that I wanted to touch on today, which could be interesting to notice, is that I really wanted to give some focus on the difference between Mass with fiber chrome and a new color, a new color being our non ammonia option and our mass, the fiber chrome, being our ammonia option. They both are permanent colors, but sometimes what we find is that over time, either taking a break from something or excess abuse. Some people can just like in anything you can all all of a sudden, build up kind of a sensitivity to something where maybe it doesn't work as well from a standpoint of irritation even from a standpoint of smell, and so my thoughts were, you know if I Think about what's going on right now and how we've had such little sensory kind of connection. So that means like we're, not touching people as much we're, not interacting with people as much, which also means we don't have. You know the same kind of sound that we're hearing you think of entering a salon. It can be quite loud and energetic and like people all around, so all of that is shut down for us, and so we may find our systems to be more sensitive, and so with that even the smell of a very low base, ammonia line could be more Sensitive to us, because we've taken a break right, it's something that we're not used to, and so these are things that we can kind of cover today of what that could look like, but also knowing that if people have taken a long amount of time without coming To see us, there's gon na be two options. Most likely that will happen. One is they're going to have a lot more regrowth or the other is that they've messed with things themselves. So both of those are going to require us to use our, and you know our creativity, but also our skillset, to really address that at the time and to not kind of just be like. Oh, you want the same thing because the same thing, it's like saying we're gon na return to business. The same way we used to do business, so those will be interesting things that I think we can kind of consider when we're working through all of the different options. A few more people joined us so I good morning and thank you for joining we're just going through the davines color families. So I always want to think that as a consumer, they have the right, if you're a guest or consumer, they have the right and should know what it is that you are using and so for me. I think we often have a missed opportunity where we don't actually share our passion or the reason for why. I think it would be important for people to know that a bonus has you know different color options, but also the fact of the environmental and the sustainability aspects of Davines, and so that they're, using color lines that are going to be better for the environment. That are going to be biodegradable that are going to be using natural ingredients whenever they can assist the performance, but also knowing that the packaging is going to be much less waste than your standard packaging. Anytime. That you look at packaging, which is paper, and it doesn't have a high gloss to it. You'Re going to know that, generally, that is going to be much better for the environment, any time that you see paper that has a high gloss or wine. It'S going to involve a more chemical process when you're manufacturing it, but it also isn't going to have the same ability to break down so all of our packaging. When you look at this is going to be working with what's considered FSC paper, so that's forestation, stewardship! Council, that means that the paper for these boxes is from recycled materials, but also from trees that were planted with this purpose. So as a consumer, I would want to know specifically at a time like this, where there is going to be some more waste, because of so many single-use items that that can be offset or one green circle will take all of your single-use items back. So if we're going to be wearing, you know, masks and gloves and various disposable items. Green circle will take that back, but also for the consumers to know that they're using you know, color on their hair. That is more environmentally supportive. So this paper itself, because of the fact that it's vegetable based ink and water-soluble glues can even be composted so recycle this great option, but it can also be put in the compost the fact of its ability to break down. Whereas when you see shiny paper, that's not going to have the same ability to break down also from a sustainability standpoint when we look at mixing ratios, this too is longer and larger, so you're, looking at a hundred mils and because of the mixing ratio which, when We'Re mixing the standard, mixing ratio you're doing one part to one and a half, and so that's going to allow this color to go longer, but by making a larger tube it means less manufacturing when we manufacture. We also are completely zero impact, so zero impact, meaning that there will be no negative impact on the environment and that we purchased carbon credits through Ethio trees, which is a company that is non profit in Ethiopia, that plants trees, works with water, irrigation and works with The local communities to create a well balanced environment and planet, so that's gon na, be one of the factors here when we work with a new color, although the tube size is smaller, the mixing ratio will still last as long because you're using the tube with a Cream base and the activator, so that's going to allow both of them to have less production, which is more favorable in the environment, but also for a financial standpoint to last longer and to go further because sustainability is not just about the environment. It'S actually about our ability to have longevity in whatever it is we do so. Those are going to be important. Factors for davin is the energy that a facility operates. So the davines village is a hundred percent going to come from renewable energy, which means it can come from rain Sun. It can come from wind, but also it comes from geothermal energy, which means energy coming from the center of the earth. So now, when you think of a choice to have a color brand, not only does the color brand perform, but it supports all of the environmental cycle which keeps our planet well and alive. So those are things that I think are worth sharing with the end consumer. When they're understanding, why, with those colors now for us as a stylist, when I think of why would I use masculine fiber chrome as a color line? For me, there's gon na be many different reasons, but I'm gon na share a few first before we kind of get into it. One of them is the fact that I really appreciate that we have four different options of natural for great coverage. So for me, when I think of personalizing a formula for someone a time like this, we definitely know that if we make our formulas too simple and too straightforward, I'm just like a level six natural, that's kind of average and nobody really wants to become average right. Like everyone wants to feel like they have something: that's special and unique for them, and so with that, it's important that we have different options for great coverage for, depending on the end result, but as well that we have so many different reflex which you'll see in Here for these options that can help personalize it for you, I think, a stylist. We hear key words that the end consumer says to us. Like I don't want gold, I don't want red, but what we forget is that we're using our knowledge for gold and red we're not actually remembering their knowledge for gold and red, and so what I mean by that is that sometimes, if you were to show people I'Ll just go into the brown reflex dudas to show them a whole, like selection of Browns. Here, to see what Brown do you like, they're, like? Oh, I hate Brown with Reds and then you'd watch and they'd pick one that in our mine we know, has red in it, and so what that tells us is that their vision of red is different than our knowledge of red, and so that translation goes sideways Because we just eliminate anything with red in it, but they're just meaning this one portion with. Maybe they don't like the mahogany Reds. Maybe they don't like the copper Reds. Maybe they don't like brassiness, but they actually may like warrants so with blondes, with browns with Reds. Whatever it is, I like to kind of hear what they're saying, but I like to look what they're using I remember. We were doing a class with ROC LeMay, one of our amazing colorist, which you should definitely check out his classes. But with that we were doing this model and she's like oh, my gosh. It always has to be ash like I need my blondes to be ash, so we're going through the consultation and he pulls out the blonde swatches and I'm gon na see. If I can find it here quickly because it was such a good one, and so she says that she would like to have, where is the color? I know I was just kind of being spontaneous in this, so then it's like no - and I want to find it. It'S gon na be more difficult, but she basically says that she wants to have completely ash color and then she's like yeah. I kind of like this color. If you can see up close, this is a 93, so it doesn't mean that we need to use 93 on her because she may already have some gold there, but we all know that this is definitely not ash. So again, just kind of seeing what does someone say and what did they? What do we hear and kind of merging it together? So I want to think of this time frame and, like I mentioned it as a pause, I feel like it sounds nicer that way. So when we have like a pause in the industry, it gives us a chance to revisit everything we revisit how we do our you know how we live in everyday life. You revisit so many parts of how we do things. So what are the workshops that I'm actually going to work on next Wednesday, which you may be interested in? So it's Wednesday at 11 o'clock? Vancouver time is going to be virtual consultations. I believe this can be a very, very effective way. I'M not sure if you guys have noticed, but when you're going out and if you're dealing with you know of that or a doctor or you know any other types of more like appointments in that way. They'Re all doing virtual consultations, which means they're either doing a FaceTime or they're doing a clear conversation to understand what it is that you're going to need and do so that you're in their environment much less. So I'm all about this, because the the whole concept is we're supposed to have more space between us, we're supposed to be together for less amounts of time. Of course we're supposed to be covered and protected. So if we want to maximize how we can do our job, I'm like let's have a virtual consultation, I'm gon na see like the face time. I want to know like what are someone's regrows like. I want to know. If they have a band, I mean none of this is shaming or making someone feel bad, but it's actually kind of exciting. So it's like okay. So that's what we're gon na do, and so with that we're gon na have to do a few different steps and that's going to allow us to get the end result that you're looking for at the same time, it will give you an incredible time to be Able to prescribe what products they should be using to either adjust and manage their scalp, which sometimes can be irritated under stress, but also just from maybe the lack of care or lack of good use of products and maybe even from the fact that they haven't had Their hair cut as often so you literally in the virtual consultation, can address what's happening with the scalp, the hair, the color all in one. So when they come in, you literally get them in the chair, make sure that it is visually as you thought it was touch base and you just go and mix everything and when they go to leave, they have their product package already ready in in a down-ass Cloth bags so that they're ready to go and out the door they go in least amount of time possible, but with that we also can have the opportunity to adjust our pricing. So when I look at that, if someone comes in and they have this much regrowth, it's not gon na be the same cost that it was before. If they've colored it themselves and there's a band, then we may have to be. You know like they open up June 1st, and I know again because there's other people on the call some people may be opening in there or you may even be open now, but regardless it's like, if you see a band, it's like okay. So we're doing you know some some color cleansing to remove unwanted color, and so those are all things that you can factor in ahead of time so that you are prepared to support whatever it is that they're going to have so with that? Going back to the reasons for me with a venous color with mask with fibre chrome, we'll start again with the four Naturals, so the four Naturals when we're looking at great coverage, we're going to have the Naturals which go from one to ten and then we're also Going to have the double Naturals or the natural intense, as you can see here, which is going from a three three to a nine nine. So the double number first means it's double natural or natural, intense. So if you think of our Naturals as having the three primary colors, we are going to sit a little bit more on the cooler side, meaning a little bit more on the blue side. If we mix equal portions of all colors, blue red and yellow, naturally blue is a little bit darker and is going to have a little bit more control than the yellow. So that's where you're going to see that it is going to seem or people may say it's like a blue base line. But it's just the fact that it has great control or me having more of a blue base to it or more control means that when I put that color on anyone's hair, I'm going to be controlling the unwanted warmth that sometimes is brought to the party. So having it more along, the blue side is going to be more ideal from my perspective, but all of these are going to give you the four Naturals which these are two of them will give you a hundred percent great coverage, but coverage can look different to Different people so, depending on your texture of hair, so finer hair, like a piece of thread and thicker hair like a piece of rope that hair the diameter, so the diameter meaning the kind of the roundness of it, is going to be different. So if we looked at like a fine piece of thread, you know it's like a tiny rat hole versus a thicker one for something that is going to be more coarse or thicker, hair texture. So when we want to change that color and we want to deposit, then you may have to use different things to get that job done. A finer texture of hair like mine, I can get a hundred percent great coverage in just the neutrals believe it or not. I actually can also get a hundred percent great coverage with a 10 volume and I'll get into that in a minute. But if you have coarser wiry more dense, thicker hair, you may need to go with the double Naturals, because it's giving you double pigman. How you could think of this is when we look at our Naturals. This could be more like something that's like tights or nylons, and then, if we were gon na say that this is tight, then we would say the double natural is like leggings right, so tights versus leggings. Hopefully, if you have leggings, that means no matter what you do. You do not see your skin through it, whereas when you have tights, depending on the light and the way that it reflects, you may be able to see some dimension. It doesn't mean that there will be gray when we're looking at the natural. What it means is it's going to be dimensional when we think of children's hair and hair. That'S never been colored, so beautiful virgin hair. It is never one flat solid color, it has dimensions, and so, when we think of how does color treated hair work, sometimes our minds want us to think inky solid because we're looking so close. Well, I don't want to see any dimension, but if you look at someone across the room and someone has solid inky color, their hair looks very colored now, in a case like mine, I like to have black hair, so I'm okay with it. Having that dense II, kind of like you shade, although Dominus will never do that, but I'm happy to have what I meaning is more solid coverage. But if you're sitting in the browns or sitting in the blonde tones it's nice to have that reflection and tones. Here'S our three reasons why one is it looks more natural, but also when hair grows out. So if people chose say a few people that come to see you back into the chair, they're not working right away and maybe for them coming in the every three to four to six weeks, is going to be a stretch for them. Maybe they're going to leave! Need to leave it every two months again supporting your guests and your friends, the people that come to see you and saying. Maybe we should shift to something that is a little bit more dimensional, so that then, when you come in again, it's not going to have so much of a solid line. It'S going to have more of a natural finish where it's fades. So that's where you're going to see the difference between the natural and the double natural or natural intense is going to be how intense the pigments are. You could also think of it like a brown piece of cellophane for the naturals and two to three pieces of natural brown cellophane put together and you can see how you would see more dimension. Sometimes I say lip gloss versus lipstick, or you know one quart of nail polish versus two, so all of them are going to be what's considered coverage. It just depends on how intense you want that, but also what is the hair texture that you're putting it on again? Now is the time when our clients come back to us for us to reassess and remind ourselves of that, and even having that conversation with your clients to say, hey, look if your hair is growing this much every three weeks, because I color my hair every two-and-a-half Weeks because of how gray it is and because of how dark it is, but not everyone can have that ability to do it so with that, if they need to get their hair colored, all that often they may not want it to be so solid inky because They don't want to have such a strong line, because the growth is gon na happen, no matter what it is that you do so that's gon na be your difference between your natural and your double natural, intense. Now, let's go to the natural ash. When we look at our natural ash, this is going to be with a point one and in a minute I'll go through what our color reflex are. So our point one is an ant, which is a blue, so in this case let's say: you're working with a level five person's hair, so the person has naturally level five, but they feel like when they get great coverage. It starts to feel too dark for what they now want. It'S kind of funny because we feel, like you know the blondes kind of start, to move a little darker, naturally in their life and the people with dark hair start to go a little lighter and we kind of all meet in that like seven to five or Four range eventually, so in this case, if someone is a five and they want to have a six you're still going to be able to do great coverage and you're still going to be able to get the solid coverage you want, but you may want to use A little bit or use the natural ash to help control that factor, so that's going to be where you're going to find the natural ash is going to be great for controlling, even more warmth than what the line controls already. We have our natural warms. Our natural warms our numbers without any points behind them, so I'm going to show you here just as a good reminder when you're looking at the tubes that you know what it is that you're using. So this is a six which is a natural warm. This is a six six point: zero, which is a double natural or natural, intense, and this is a six point: zero, which is our natural and sorry. There should be a six point, one which is our natural ash, and all of them will give you great coverage. So with the natural warm, what is that the natural warm is what level four I'm like. What am i pointing out what a level four is if you were to go in the Sun for two weeks, so at a level four you're going to see a little bit more of the Reds and coppers that are going to kind of come forward into the Way that the color is, whereas a level five and as we go, lighter you're, going to see more of the coppers and more goals. So each of these we can't call it a Gold Line. We say that it's what's underlying that pigment and that's why? Whatever my hair would look like in the Sun, if I went more on the Sun, I'm gon na pull more red, whereas someone that's lighter, is going to pull possibly more golden or more copper, so the natural warm will be whatever is underlying that pigment. So it's a nice way to kind of bring brightness in some ways just to bring out what the hair naturally would be present present with. So how do these work for gray coverage? We have a great tool. That'S called a great coverage, finder or identifier, and this tells us what each of those numbers or levels so, whether you're a three five or seven. What does 50 % gray look like the great thing about it is for one. Sometimes it helps us know. You know to mix our formula, but also sometimes when we look at at 3.0 with fifty percent versus a three there. All right cover this up. It will be confusing to her eye. We may think that the 3.0 is actually a four when we see all of that gray present. If we formulate incorrectly that's where we often get more warmth than we want. If you start to notice that you're pulling too much warmth, you may need to go darker in your formula because you may have misdiagnosed. I saw kind of a fun photo where someone took a picture of someone's hair and they were putting the swatch on to try to determine what it is and they said, take a picture and change it to black and white, and that will help you know what Is the level I was like that's clever, I actually hadn't heard of that. But mine is I usually like to splint like when I squint, then it's like one blends in and the other stands out. If you're ever trying to decide between the two, but regardless that's gon na be a tool to help you identify. Does the person have 50 %, or also for us to identify the fact of what it is their actual level? So when we're working with all four of these Naturals, what you're going to find is that you need to use at least a third of your formula to be one of those Naturals for great coverage. That'S the rule personally, as a colorist and just for the simplicity of mixing, I always like to say 50 % and that's not a governess thing. That'S just how I tend to mix, I always say 50 % of the formula, one of the four Naturals to give you great coverage, keep in mind all of these Naturals, though they can have the ability to be able to give you great coverage but solid. If you just wanted to use the whole tube, but they also are going to be able to just give you just the color that you want based on what you see, so it can be used as a color. So if you wanted an ash color, then you could be happily to use that so, let's go through what the numbers are, so that as we go through the reflex, like don't kind of confuse you with that that we got this all clear. So, as you can see, this is the color wheel. What I like about the visual of a color wheel, which can be new for some people to use, is that it helps you see there. The numbers sit compared to the reflux, but it also helps you get the visual of the death. So when we look at reflux, so if we have a reflect meaning, it's a level 6 copper I like to think of it as the depth of an ocean-like going deeper. As in darker a reflux. The three booklets I showed you and I'll refer back to are not going to have 50 percent natural many brands that you'll work with in the past are going to have fifty percent natural. Here'S. Why? I prefer a brand that doesn't have fifty percent natural. That is primarily the reflect if I want red I'm going to get red as its full capacity. If I wanted to add Brown, I can add one of the Naturals. If I want to have ash meaning I want to control the warmth, then I can have ash and you know green and blue bases or control factors on their own without natural. The minute that you add natural, you lose your ability to control and you lose your ability to enhance. So that's why, for me or davin us, I love having four Naturals to pick from. I also like to have reflex that are exactly the tone without the natural and again the way you know the difference from a level one to a level. Ten is just thinking of it being darker and depth and not having the brown. So if I was a redhead and we did my formula and we wanted to pull the color through to have great vibrancy, if we pulled it through with a red or a copper, I would get beautiful red and copper shining and singing. If you had natural in that formula, you would mud out or kind of like make it murky the mids and the end, and they wouldn't have the vibrancy of the Reds or the coppers the same with the ash. If I wanted to control warmth - and I wanted to do a tint back - and I didn't like the fact that my hair was feeling red, I would want to make sure that I had every bit I can of control without the natural diluting that ability. So again, there's going to be three points already that I brought up for. Davin is for me: sustainability and the environmental positioning with it from the packaging, from the zero impact from the renewable energy and all the stories associated having four natural options for great coverage. And now having reflux, which are pure as the reflux dictates and shares by the color on the tube. So now the naturals and the natural intents are sitting here so when I was talking about our Naturals for great coverage, they're sitting smack in the blue area. Primarily now, when we're going to look and we're going to work at our ashes that we're going to see that the ashes are sitting in through here so they're still in the blue, but they are kind of moving over and to the side kind of with that Control with the violet, so our ones and our zeros are going to sit more in this area here now, our two, which is considered our violet or I race, is sitting in the violet tones r3, which is a gold, is sitting in the golden area. Our four, which is a copper, is sitting in the coppers. Five, which is a mahogany, is sitting in this range between the red and the violet. And our six, which is a red, is sitting in the Reds and our seven, which is the green, is sitting kind of in through the green and almost into this yellow, which actually creates a very nice brown or neutral control. And so then, when we're looking at eight or eight are going to be solid, green. So that's going to be how the color wheel works. So when you see the numbers you're going to be able to determine the fact of what is the actual reflect. So what I mean by that is, I mean when you're looking at the numbers here, let's go through and pick this one five, seven three! So the five is going to be the depth of a five but not 50 % brown. Then it's going to read seven, which is our beige, which is a cool kind of green, yellow and three, which is a gold. This is a beautiful formula to be able to create a very neutral, but at the same time, kind of full kind of almost like chocolatey feeling to our Brown. How the seven and the three work for the amounts. We always want to say that the seven is the primary reflect, so that's going to be the focus of it is going to be the beige and then the three is just like a sparkle or like a little additive of gold. We can't really say what percentage is the seven versus the three universally for all of our colors and again, like we touched on in the beginning, when I said that if we have blue red and yellow and we put the same amount in a bowl and we Stirred it up together, the first color that would disappear without having any ability to control or enhance, would be yellow because yellow is lighter and then it would be red and then it would be blue. So if we said by chance that the formula was 35 % of one and 15 % of another, it wouldn't be realistic because it would change depending on what the reflect is. So I hope I haven't confused you in that. What I mean is that if you have primarily gold and say that's 35 % and then we're going to have in ash, which is a blue, which is 15 %, that 15 % could actually control much more than what 15 % is. And if we did the reverse meaning, the 35 % was blue and the 15 % was gold that gold would be washed out. So what davin is does is every single tube is formulated to give you the visual end, result of primary and secondary, as opposed to seeing an immediate percentage if it helps your mind to visualize that it is going to be this much of this, and this much Of this, then, absolutely that can work, but from a scientific perspective, it's not 35 percent of the mixture and 15 or 75 and 25. It'S going to be primary and secondary. So hopefully that makes sense when you're looking at how these reflux work. So then, another way to look at it is, if you were to imagine a chandelier in the in the ceiling, so chandelier new chandelier with beautiful prism. So they have all these like sparkly bits. The primary focus of it is going to be in this case. Let'S fill with another one of our shades, that is kind of a signature for us. Let'S go with an ash, copper, the primary look of the chandelier is going to be ash and then a tiny bit of sparkle will be the copper, so the ash and the copper don't neutralize or cancel each other out. They'Re actually pigments that sit beside each other and shimmer and that's going to be because of the fact of the. What is the ingredients and how the color pigments and molecules sit beside each other. So with that you're going to find some unique color formulas and keep in mind too how important it is to personalize what it is that you're going to use for each of your clients, if at all possible, just like you cut their hair differently, see if you Can come up with a unique formula for every single person? I think that that would make everyone feel good to know that they have their own unique color. It also means it's harder for them to replicate, or even for them to show up somewhere else to get the same color. So that's gon na be when we look at more of our Browns. Let me look. Oh sorry and I also forgot when we look at some of our brown shades, there also are going to be some of these. That'S like a two one, one which the two one one and the two two one I mix and match in my formula. So when you're doing great coverage, you do your normal right coverage for your regrowth and then you can also kind of mix and match. Because for me I like to use a one, but then I also like to sometimes do a two point, one one, because that's gon na have the double off so a little bit more blue and then there's times where I use a 2.21. I think you can probably see that there's a little bit of a blue reflect as the Sun is coming in and that's from using the two one one. So these are going to be great ways a lot of times too. You could use some of these because they're such good control, you can use a dab of them into your formula to get some unique mixtures, always remember that davines has a great site called avenues: color on Instagram and anytime, that there's a color on there. They will repost your work if it's clean and beautifully finished, but you also have to show your complete formula with a penis. So, in this case, if you ever wanted to kind of get more creative, you can go through that page and see different formulas and then see what do people choose to use. So in this case, moving to the Reds, as you can see here, we have reds and coppers mahogany's, all sorts of different shades for your option. Our Reds have such intensity and longevity. They really are incredible and a great performance support for us as colourists. So again, knowing the fact that these are not going to be neutralized out with browns because they are reflux. If you wanted to have any Browns, then you have the ability to mix these in. So if I had someone that was a natural redhead or wanted to have red hair with great coverage, I would probably go with the natural warms as my base for great coverage and then go into my Reds or my reflux. Now, let's look at our blondes: our blondes are going to have the ability to give us tons of different options, so we're going to have lots of different reflux. When we look at blondes and we look at toning, I will be covering view in a few minutes. But it's always interesting to think about the fact of how does permanent color look differently than a demi-permanent color, and so, when we're looking at that as a whole, and when we're going to be working with color, it is an important thing to be able to consider How do you want those reflux to look, and so for me, the double toning process is going to be the most effective for longevity. So keep in mind. These are beautiful shades and they are a great support for kind of your primary base as a toner. But you can also use them for blondes in general. We also have an incredible opportunity to use highlights when we look at the high lifts, meaning the 12 series. The 12 series is going to give us the ability to get five levels of lift. So if we started in the mid range and the five and the six we are not going to end up with this visual, this visual of a swatch is only really going to be effective like this, when you're looking at kind of like almost like a seven, Probably even more an eight, so the colors are not going to look this way. But what's important is what the numbers tell us so even out of level five or six, you can use high lists to get a quite nice kind of caramel or even just a nice light brown as a highlight or as dimensions. There'S. Even I think one of our friends it's on educator, that's on the call right now, Terra Lin and I believe she uses the high the high list solely to lighten her hair and she's, a beautiful blonde. It has just a nice kind of new tool with just some gold shimmers from here and there, but she's able to use that without using any bleach or Lightner to get a beautiful blonde. But of course it's for starting level. That'S going to be the important factor. Then we also have a booster. The booster is what's considered our triple zero. This actually reminds me at this point. If you guys are already using mass with fiber chrome, it would be important to check in with yourself and with your swatch book and, of course, with your consultant to ensure that you have the most updated swatch book, because we do keep having new shades added. And it's important that you're going to! I know where it is it's in my book. Speaking of that, because the old one used to have it so the newest book is going to have and silly meet your booster here and your intensifiers so I'll go into the booster and then I'll go into the intensifiers. The booster itself is going to have the ability, because of its ammonia content to lighten hair and give you an extra level of lift. What you have to remember is that there is no pigment in it. So if you have a high lift, that's point about higher percentage of ammonia, the triple zero booster is going to have about the ammonia content of a level 10. That means you do not want to use, ideally the booster with anything, that's lighter than the level 10 in your color formula, because if I have a high list, so let me just grab one again: let's see where do we go? Yes? So if I have a twelve point, one eight remember a one is a blue and eight is a green. I'M liking the benefits of this, because it's going to have tons of incredible control. Now, if I've used the triple zero booster with this, the ammonia content is higher and the triple zero booster is lower. So now I'm dieting my intensity to lighten, but the triple zero has no pigment, and this has controlled pigment. So now I'm even diluting the ability to have control, so it doesn't really make my logical sense to use the triple zero booster with this high lift unless it was an intentional decision. So the triple zero booster, having the lift ability of a level 10, is going to be the times that you want to use that one. Then what you're going to keep in mind is the fact that you are going to be diluting your formula, so it can't eluded your formula and you want it to bring back intensity or control. You have the ability to use these. You can see so that 0.12 is a blue right. Violet blue, I race, which is gon na, be ash and then you're going to have the zero one eight, which is a Bluegreen, so in ash ash, then you're going to have is a two five. I'M like looking backwards so yeah you're gon na have a violet Bonnie and then a six six, which is a double red. So these all of these intensifiers do have ammonia in them. Why it's important to know that they have ammonia in them? It means you can use them on their own as fashion colors, but also you have to factor them into your formula when you're, using the activator, boosters or intensifiers that don't have a moment. You mix your color as is, and then you add them in, whereas this you would add it like your color and then add your activator as it goes that way. So hopefully that makes sense for you when we kind of covered it. So now, what I'm going to do is I'm going to go through how the activators work with mess with fiber comb and, what's in the tube, so that you can be better supported, this fall that works and, of course, any questions along the way. I'M happy to share so we have all the way from a 5, 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume. We the way to kind of look at this, our five and our 40. I often think of like that be like meaning they have different rules for using them. So a five volume and a fort looks good and a 40 volume are going to be used differently. Everything in between the mixing ratio will be one part color to one and a half parts activator keep your math simple, so, for example, 20 grams of color. If I say one and a half activator, then that means you mix another 20 of your activator and what's another half of the twenty ten. So it's kind of simple. If you just keep your math as simple as possible, and then it becomes normal for you, for mixing mixing ratio for a 5 and for a 40 can be different. A 5 is going to give us more of a Demi type of finish. So what we're going to do, but remember that tube of color has ammonia, so it can shift your natural base in color. So a 5 you would mix one part color to 2 parts of the 5 volume, a high lift. You would mix one part color or one part: high, lift 2 parts of the 40 volume, so everything in between is one to one and a half and your 5 and your 40. I wanted to so now. Let'S look about what and why you can use each one. A five volume for timing is also going to be as long as or as little as you like up to around 20 minutes. So that means you may just want it for 5 minutes. You may want it for 10 minutes, because it's just would it be kind of more of that temporary finish. That'S going to be able to not be permanent in the same capacity, although keep in mind again because the tube as ammonia, it can shift the base back way. The 10 volume is going to be what you use as your deposit and your tone on tone level. So for me, because of my fine hair, I can actually get away with great coverage with a 10 volume, and when I was behind the chair for a lot of people, I did use a 10 volume because I like to have a lighter finish to there. To there deposit - and they were quite happy with that too 20 volume is going to be our main go-to for a coverage. It also can get deposit and a 20 volume, keep in mind that 2 1 less than 2 is one, can give you one level of lift. So that's where, if you formulate incorrectly on your scalp, if you think that someone is a level 6, but there are 5 and you use a level 6, the 20 volume will actually give you one level lighter, which means it could pull unwanted warmth. So that's where your diagnosis is so important, so what 20 volume rate coverage can give you one level of lift and it can also be your deposit. Your 30 volume can also be used for great coverage, but it's different than many lines where they will often say. If it's resistant go there, it can give you it, but that'll go to is 20 an hour 30 can give us two levels of lift. Our party will give us three levels of lift and then, if you want more levels of lift, we can either use our triples or a booster or our high lifts. So that's gon na be how you can work with all of those as a whole. So now, looking at the fact that you have your four great coverage options, you have reflex which are primary to the way the reflex works, meaning there's not going to be the brown component put in, so your ashes are going to have incredible control and your Reds Are going to have incredible vibrancy, then you also have the triple zero booster as an additive tool. You have your intensifiers, which you can also work with, and your high lips and so many different activators to work with, so that you really have the complete support in that. So now what is in the tube so keep in mind. Dominus loves to be thinking of natural when it can improve the performance, so we have a relationship with a farm in South America and we use quinoa protein, so quinoa protein is going to give us the ability to give us longevity, but it also helps with the Absorption of color pigments, so for us thinking of you know, protein is the primary base for color. Quinoa is an incredible support for that to be able to allow the penetration and longevity of the color, then our second factor, so that's going to be our natural factor. Our second factor is going to be omega-9, keep in mind: davon us manufacturers, hair care, color and skin care. Omega 9 is used in skin care, so a mega 9 think of kind of what skin care does its softening and its shine. So that's what you're going to find it's going to also give nice protection to the hair. So you're going to have your shine and you're going to have your longevity and you're going to have your softness from Omega 9. Now you're going to look into the fact of you're going to think of what is in the garment industry, so in the garment industry, we're going to think of a silt your fabrics. Our hair is a fiber just like the fibers of soap, so we use the technology, which is a phospholipid carrier. A phospholipid carrier is used in silk coloring. It allows the color pigments to slide in so the benefit of that is that, generally speaking, in a permanent color situation, you know you need to have the environment where the color is going to allow the cuticle to open for the color pigments to slide in. So this phospholipid carrier allows us to only open up a little bit, which means we can lower our ammonia content, so the color pigments slide in beautifully. So that's what you're going to find with our bold color line is we have natural, we have skincare and we have from the garment industry, the silk industry and kind of putting those together to give us our incredible great coverage support. So, hopefully, that helps you kind of see how you can work with masks with fiber film with your clients. I have to remind you of the fact that when a very very first used Avenues color, it was a different coloring. This mask but not mask the fiber chrome. I was using it prior to having any distribution here or any education. When I followed what the manual said and all of the details associated and did my diagnosis, I had zero issues, so always remind yourself that when we look at great coverage, application is always going to be key if you're using a lower ammonia baseline. It'S important that you're thinking finer sections and you're applying nicely with that. If people have been going for a longer period of time, without color you're going to need more color, which Muser is going to be additional times for that, but you're also going to have to be more detailed with your application. Because of the fact that you want to make sure that you have your solid coverage, so you're going to need to have more color than you standard would have color and you're also going to need to do a thicker application than when it's just like my tiny Little roots every three weeks, so because every three weeks we have the ability anything gets missed. You kind of like touch it up and touch over. But in this case, when you have an area like this, that color it needs to be perfectly applied. So keep in mind when you're kind of planning accordingly, but that's something you need to consider so with that timing. Timing is going to be 35 minutes, like I said for your ten twenty and thirty and forty. If it's your color or your high list, you're going to be looking at between 55 and closer to sort of that 55 and even up to an hour when you're looking at your final volume, then you're just using it from a few minutes up to 20. So that's gon na be kind of how your timing works, but if the hair texture is different, that's where you can, as an artist and as a knowledgeable stylist know that you can get away with either less or more. If you have a finer texture of hair - and I even don't do this - but you technically could probably rinse two minutes early, because the timeframe that it takes from my hair to get processed being fine is going to be less than someone with course or wiry hair. So someone with coarse our wiring there, it's okay, if you choose to as a stylist, leave it on longer, just knowing about their resistance. It'S not a rule, but it's just us understanding. It'S like if you're baking, if you're baking, cookies all together and you make one. That'S a tiny mound and a bigger mound. The bigger man needs to be cooked longer than the tiny mound. So it's just kind of knowing the recipes going to say cook for 10 or 12 minutes. But you may know, because you put so much on there, meaning the hair is thicker, of course, or that you need longer and that, oh, that one is little so that one needs less so again. Manufacture rules will always tell you what is the standard, but you have to remember: are you using it on hair? That is the standard and average, or is there something outside of it? So with that, let's move into a new color are non ammonia. So, like I mentioned, this is something to consider if you potentially have known that you have a sensitivity to ammonia, feel free to go into a non ammonia option. I'Ll share from my own personal perspective prior to mask the fiber chrome. I actually started to build up an intolerance, so I became irritated by ammonia, probably because I color my hair so often, and because I was a busy stylist wear, a color was constantly being breathed in and it started to just kind of like not be something that Made me feel good, but also, if I use it on my own hair, I would keep. When master fiber chrome came out. I was able to switch and use masculine fiber comb with zero irritation. At the same time, in the back of my mind, I have to remember that I may at some point build up an intolerance again or an irritation to ammonia, because it's not about deafness. It'S about the ammonia content that my body was. You know kind of like resistant to so with that we have a non ammonia option, which is our a new color. Our new color is likely the ones that I was showing you here, which is going to have with the white boxes. What you're going to think of with the non ammonia color, which is a new color, is that in this case we are going to use ingredients that are going to be water-soluble they're, not a gas emitting into the environment. So with this, we're going to also be using natural based, color pigments, and we have what's called meta silicate, which is a cream base. The cream base needs to be alkaline, because a permanent color needs to have an alkaline component to be able to open up the cuticle. So with that you'll find the non ammonia colors are going to be far more permanent and have more longevity than your standard. Non. Ammonia, because we have the extra additives, so sometimes people say well, I don't want to have an extra additives. Well, people use bond builders, they use all sorts of things as an additive to enhance the performance. So we made it where you have to have the medicine. A cream base because the active alkaline component can't live in the tubes of color for more than 24 hours, or so so we can't put that in there and then ship it to you and expect you to use it in the timeframe. So instead it's an extra component and think of this as giving you your extra lift and your extra ability for great coverage. So when this line first came out, I used it solely for six months. I absolutely loved it and still do love it. It is something that I used on every single client and had a hundred percent success, so there really is no missing piece to it, but, just like I mentioned having more spices in the kitchen or more ingredients to cook with, I think of mass with fiber foam