Haircut Tutorial - How To Cut Layers - Thesalonguy
- Posted on 09 October, 2014
- Hair Knowledge
- By Anonymous
Please enjoy my haircut tutorial on how to cut layers. Layers are designed to remove weight, add volume and shape in the hair. In this haircut tutorial video, I share some of my techniques on how to cut layers.
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With 20+ years of experience as a hairstylist and media personality, Stephen Marinaro, a.k.a. TheSalonGuy, focuses on bringing fashion, beauty and entertainment content to millions of people through TV, radio, print and the web. Whether he is offering style advice or chatting with stars on the red carpet, Stephen lives by the values of professionalism, respect, and passion for his work.
Since entering the beauty industry in 1992, Stephen wanted to give back to his community in different ways. After serving the public and protecting our families for six years as a law enforcement officer and Firefighter, Stephen decided to forge ahead with a new career path that combined his first loves: Beauty and Technology. Stephen brought his core family values, respect and an overwhelming sense of dignity with him during his transition. Not only is Stephen a mentor to millions of viewers through television and radio, he is also the founder of salonsearch.com, an innovative online directory for salon clients and professionals.
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Stephen is currently signed to CDS, one of the top 10 YouTube Networks in the world. He was also cast by eHow as an expert, for a 13-episode series on hair and grooming tips. He's chatted with and interviewed cast members of several shows including How Do I Look?, What Not to Wear, The Real Housewives of New Jersey, Real Housewives of New York, Cake Boss, Jersey Shore as well as covering red carpet events and fashion shows that include the Oscars and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week NYC. Stephen has appeared on Style Networks hit show, Jerseylicious on Season 4 and has worked with other networks such as MTV and BRAVO.
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Hey everyone Steve in the salon, guy here and happy Thursday. I hope you're all enjoying my new filming schedule, we're putting up videos every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. So today, I'm going to show you guys how to cut layers now, if you're, a professional salon. This tree is to be very helpful to you. If you're, not professional, usually gon na get something from this, because I'm gon na go over something. That'S really important with haircutting, so I'm going to show you different types of layering hair and how to achieve it. So let's get started alright. So the first thing to ask yourself is: why do you want to create layers? Are you looking to remove weight? Are you looking to build weight? Are you looking to add volume to the hair layers can do a lot of great things, but you also have to be careful, because if you wear the hair and properly you can get some serious mistakes and some serious stuff going on. You don't want to happen. So I'm gon na break down a couple of different ways: how I layer the hair and explain what each one does. So I've got the two front sections you have sectioned off and say, for example, if you were to take this a piece right here on the top back of the head. As you see the comb here - and I already cut this - and I cut it straight across that hair would then fall down to a certain point so we're, however short you cut it. It'S gon na fall to that point and that's where your layering is going to start. So, if you bring this all the way up and cut it in the very tips right here, that means it's going to be a longer layer. So if you cut it say halfway into here, it's going medium and then, if you cut it really really short like this. Obviously it's shorter layer. So, however, far up you hold your fingers and, however long you leave it that determines the type of layering short, medium or long. So here's a technique that I do sometimes which, if you cut this, it keeps things even, but it really removes a lot. A lot of weight, okay, so if you're gon na hold this straight up like this cut it straight across, alright, then cut it straight across. Let me turn this around here. There'S a guide right here, as you can see. Now, if I were to take a section, okay - which I do this off and let's turn the head like this - alright - and we go right down the middle like this - then take another horizontal section right here in the back, alright right here in the back like that, That'S all straight up like this. Okay, calming all straight up to that first section that you cut there. It is right there cut this straight across wow. You just got yourself another layer all right now, if you continue to do that again, all the way down comb it all the way straight up like this, so the first section that you cut you're going to be able to remove a lot a lot of weight. All right, the good thing about this is that you're keeping everything even there's no way that make this haircut uneven. Then what happens when you drop it down? Let'S just zoom in like this and show you guys what happens. Is this whole area, as you can see, is layered, but what it does is it removes a lot of the weight into here. Now, if I were to take this whole thing on the bottom and comb it straight up, it would make it very, very wispy and very fine on the bottom, which I don't want, that I never really cut hair like that. What I do is I come in through the bottom like here. Alright, I see where my last section was where I cut, and then I cut upwards this way all right, this way, I'm maintaining the bottom the length and also the thickness of it, because I don't want to remove too much weight throughout the bottom here. You always want to have a nice solid line throughout the bottom all right now, this one I haven't, cut any length but they're consistent right now, so you've got a nice beautiful shape with layers and you're removing maximum weight. This way, another technique is say, for example, if you were to hold that straight up like that, like how we just did alright and now you're ready to move down the head shape, but now, instead of holding it's right up, you're going to cut it, let's bring The camera up again, what you're going to do is you're going to comb it straight out like this. Alright, there's the guide and now you're going to over direct up this way, which is going to leave maximum length. It'S going to remove some weight, but look what's happening. Okay, all that hair down in through here just fell out. Alright, let's do that again on this side here, combing it straight up. There'S the guide right there. My left elbow is pointing up this way. The higher you point, your elbow, the more you're gon na get layering and you might end up building weight might remove weight, but your elbow basically is going to help you determine how much hair or and how much layer you're going to do now. Again. We'Re gon na work all the way to the bottom here and there's a section, but look all that hair dropped out. So what you did is you created now layers, but you left some weight throughout the bottom. So it's a very, very safe way to keep the length, keep the weight into the bottom, but also add soft layers like this. Okay. So, as you can see, you're barely cutting anything off and there's still some weight down through here, whereas before you removed a lot more weight all right now. Another way you can lay your hair is, if you work from the bottom up, if you're working from the bottom up, you're really gon na, remove a lot of weight and you're gon na really layer, it pretty heavily. But it's a great way to stay, really consistent and really take control of the haircut and you get to really work from the bottom up, so you're, seeing all the internal shape in through the bottom, because when you work from the bottom up this really. Where a lot of the weight ends up being is throughout the bottom half of the haircut, that's why? If you hold it up this way, you let all this drop. You see haircuts that have a lot of layers and then from here under there's, nothing there because you're letting the hair drop out when you bring it up this way, alright, you're being safe, but your end that you end up, leaving it really really heavy working from The bottom up will help eliminate that, because you're actually going from internally throughout the bottom here - okay you're starting throughout the bottom - and this is gon na - be a great way to really really add and remove weight in through down here and then, as you work up. The head shape, then you change body positioning with your hands and your and your shoulders, and then you work upwards. So what you've done is you've created a nice shape working from downwards going upwards, alright. So what I've done now is I've taking the clips out and let's say, for example, now we're ready to work in front. So there's a few different options. What you can do is you can take the hair just like we did in the back part, and you can comb it straight up all right and you can see your guy from before cut it, and then you can work forward. Okay, you can take another section right down the middle here: we're not working into the corners go to the sides. Take a section straight up like this and again there's your guide. There'S a hair needs to come off and we're cutting horizontally, but cutting everything horizontally here. Keeping it all balanced and you're keeping a nice even shape, but then the key lies here where what do you want to do into the corners? Because if you take this - and you then have this corner here - then over extend it this way and cut that way. You'Re going to be leaving the corner, and it's going to lay a little bit flatter into here all right. If you were to cut that corner all right like this and round it out, that's gon na create a more rounded shape and you might get some volume to it or the last thing you can do. Is you cut it and leave it square like this? Where you pull everything straight out and then cut up this way, that's really gon na leave a lot of weight in through here. It'S not gon na have a best flow. I don't really like doing square layers, especially when it comes to longer hair. So what I like to do most of the time on my layers, is I usually round everything out so by rounding it out. You'Re gon na get a nice even shape throughout both sides and throughout the whole haircut all right when you get it through here, you'll see the hair drops out and that's where you you leave the hair when it drops. You don't want to cut too much because you don't want to cut that length. You don't want to make it too wispy. You want to keep a solid base, especially when you're layering hair. You want to make sure that base is really really solid. All right. So here another example: one more time is: I'm rounding it, so I'm pretty a nice full shape around this way. All right, that's how I like to cut my layer of most of the time what I typically do when I'm doing layering, especially throughout the front, is I create my outline first, all right, I cut my base all the way throughout the front and then I'll determine Where I'm going to cut so say, I want the layers to start up here. There'S a number of ways you can do it. You can slide cut down like this. Alright and again, as you can see, I'm doing this dry, but you can slide cut down like that and look we've got layers already: okay, there's the the angle there's a face frame, but what we're doing is we're actually creating and creating a guide for our layers. Okay, there you go, then you have the whole thing to work in through there's your guide and you're gon na bring everything up to that. One piece which is going to be your your guide, so look there's a quick way to create layers without making it too thin, and with that removing you know too too much weight. You can do the same thing on the other side, or we can do is on this side comb, the hair down like this. You create your length and after creating your length, then you cut upwards like this. Alright, you determine where you want the link to be. You position your elbow, pointing up towards the ceiling you're standing in front and you're, just simply working your way up like that. Alright, what that's gon na do again, that's giving you a nice beautiful base line and a guide to where you're going to then cut your layers. So when you're cutting in through the corner here like this and you're going throughout the the head shape, you can see where you cut before, then you can round it. You can cut a square. You can do whatever you want alright. So I like doing my base guideline first and then creating my layer. Well guys. I know this was a lot of information. I went over, but I hope you got Club me from this. I try to break down how I do layers and how you can lay your hair, and I hope you get something out of this and you find this video helpful. So, thank you so much for watching and I'll see you guys on Sunday for more tutorials with a Salonga
Comments
Maria Palermo: After watching this (again) I was able to do this cut on myself and it came out really good! I mean it took a long time because my hair was wet and it took a while to make sure everything was even but your tips helped to make sure everything came out nice and even! Thank you! Keep up the great videos!
sue Downey: Thank you so much for this info! I needed this layering so much, and was able to do it myself, without paying up the ying yang for it. Love it, and you’re right about the weight it took off! Looks great too! Thanks again for sharing your time and talent with us
Resheda Gray: I appreciate you so much for sharing this technique with us! This was very Helpful and clear, keep them coming!
Hayley Shaw: This helped a lot this looks easier than starting at the nape of the neck. I tried doing layers and ended up making a 90 degree haircut (I don’t know how but I did luckily it was only a mannequin) . I’m going to try and practice this, thank you!
freedom dove: Thanks so much for your helpful videos. I've sent them to my hairdresser and she likes them, too. :) Could a stylist use your layering techniques, except for starting at the front? I have collarbone-length hair right now (all one length) with long side bangs. It's too heavy and thick for me and I want to have it layered. I think the most appropriate length for the first layer might be the shortest pieces up front, but am unsure if that would be too short for layering. Can she start up front and use my bangs to find/create the guideline? How would she proceed after that? I presume she could go in the opposite fashion you go in the video and do the top first then blend in the sides and then work around to the back. Does that sound alright or would you do it differently? Also, do you think the bangs are too short for a layering guideline (the shortest pieces fall just below my mouth)? Thanks again. :) If you're taking video requests, I definitely would like to see a layer cut on hair that is all one length with long side bangs, using the bangs for the guideline. ;) I have my next appointment in two weeks. :P Lol.
Ti Blair: Oh dear. I am so unbelievably thrilled to have found you, this video and the video you made about layering the back of your own hair. My Covid hair journey has taken me on a wild ride and I am pretty sure I have made every classic mistake. (Which is actually hugely helpful for learning!) I don't know why it wasn't "clicking" before when I watched other tutorials or cheat videos. Now I understand. I did a couple of layers to take the hideous weight out of the back of my hair and can't wait to really take my time and try this. Instant lightbulb moment. Thank you!
blackmoonpearl: This was an awesome tutorial! You explain the many different ways to layer hair. I have problems connecting the side to the front. Can you do a video explaining this and what not to do that will create steps when cutting layers. This especially happens with thick hair. Thanks for all your videos.
Alex Flores: Love love love these layering techniques! They could've came at a better time! Thanks Thesalonguy!
Tori Bond: Straight to the point and focused on different techniques. Loved it.
Ambers Lil Rose: I really love your tutorials, and find them very helpful. Thanks so much for doing them! However, standard layering techniques don't seem to work for my hair, which is very very thick and pretty long, and I don't want short layers/wispiness. My stylist has to pull some wizardry type moves to keep my hair from getting a huge block/chunk because of my side part... :/ Do you have any suggestions, other than thinning shears? Thanks again! Really appreciate your videos.
Sarah McKeen: Love these technique videos. Thank you so much Stephen. You know how much I appreciate your work by now haha. Take care ..
Helen Lewis: I find your videos so helpful, just gone back into the salon after a short break from the commercial environment and your videos have helped my confidence no end. Thank you steve
Rajeshwari Vishnumolakala: Classes are very much helpful . thanks a lot. I really really love your classes
Isabel Stylist: Thanks for this explanation, it has answered many questions. Keep these videos coming.
Penny Shirey: Thank you so very much! You've motivated me to cut my hair in layers but I wasn't expecting to be short then intended ♀️ You're really good and would absolutely love to schedule an appointment with you if I lived in your area!!
Side Effect: I'm learning to be a professional hairdresser in Finland and thanks to this tutorial I just got 5/5 review/grade from my cutting exams :D thank you so much :)
Christina Shala: At the back of the head- if I chose to do the layers how you first described by cutting your guide and then taking horizontal sections and lifting them up, do you recommend to do the same when you go to layer the front? Or switch to round layers in the front? Mainly focusing on the section by the ear to avoid making it look too skinny. Seems like that’s what you were saying.
Charlotte Mary Morrisroe: Thank you, these videos help me , only been qualified one year but great to follow you :) x
Yvonne Summer: I am glad you put your videos on Youtube so I can learn what I need to ask for from my stylist. I have a question if you have a video on how the bottom line is cut straight across on medium length hair. I always have a problem because I have lot of hair in the back, that ends up being an issue because all the hair cut straight across ends up being a thick heavy bottom line and I would like to know the name of the technique or layering I need to ask for. I think each section can be cut maybe a millimeter different in length, would that make sense? I usually ask the stylist to take off the heaviness when it is dry, then they point cut the h*** out of it and I don't like the end result...... What is a better way to do it?
Kasey David LeBoeuf: Thank you! I’m growing out my hair and want to get layers when it’s longer.
Fire In A Teacup: Really excellent video--great job not forgetting to adjust the camera, too! Thanks!
Suzy Kas: I love your work very simple and helpful .
amy namvong: I love you’re technique This is the one that I looking for
no.: Very helpful! Thank you!
Irene V.: Thanks, good explanations! Maybe you could add a pic of each style of layering so we can see the results in real people :)
Suzi P: You are amazing. Thanks so much for all the great tutorials.
Ben S: Thanks. My wife got so frustrated with her hair after months of COVID keeping her salon closed. Thanks to your tutorial, she is still able to be seen in public, and I am not sleeping on the couch.
Promise Richardson: YOU EXPLAIN THINGS SO WELL...THANK YOU !!!!
Abiiglez: i love how you explain!! you made looks easy!!
amari jordan: Love it! Short sweet and to the pointty!
Angela Trotter: I am in beauty school and have been looking for someone to help me. I just wanted to thank you for your videos
Yvonne Cheung: Thank you. Very helpful to cut my daughter's hair. Nice
Madame Musashi: He's got the best haircut of them all
Peggy Irvin: OMG... Thank you so much for this awesome video! I already knew this because I have done hair for yrs. but I needed to teach my daughter how to layer hair. I will be using your video tommorow and I'll be her client I'm new to this channel but already I love it
Judy Arnall: Excellent video, advice and explanation.
Lubna R.: I'm studying in a beauty school in Belgium,but everything is in Dutch and it's way harder to understand everything,just yesterday I learned this haircut and found it really complicated,but this video made things a bit better for me,thank you so much :)
Sharon: I'm about to cut my son's hair for the first time. This video is very helpful.
Sharon Margaret Stewart: Great Steven I keep asking them to shape it but they slide the scissors down causing my hair to be wispy at the ends so could you please advise me what to ask for I rather have a good old fashion cut scissors and comb as I feel when they slide it ,it’s too thin at the ends thanks Steven for your video
Katrinakaif: Can you please make a layer haircut very simple and easy to follow . I’ve almost searched your channel but I’m a junior stylist and I need a very simple easy to follow basic layered haircut that works on all type of hair even
Samuel albritton: This is the video I needed. If there is a way you can think of to make this video even better, do it. I've watched it about ten times now. I'm taking alot away from it. If you can ever think of what else we need to know or could improve the video with even more of your knowledge on the subject, do it. I've got cutting guys down. Understanding what I'm doing with girls has been a different story. I've watched you other layer cut videos and they are good but this made them make alot of sense. I like when you show us what we could have done and what it does when we do make certain cuts vs the other. doing something because you tell us vs us knowing why we are doing it is huge. Anything else on the subject of layers, would be huge in my career as well as others I assume. Thanks loads. I appreciate every bit of you time. You the man
Luz Vibes: How would you refine this haircut? I’m guessing it depends on what type of hair it is? (Fine, thick, curly, wavy, straight?)
leslie espana: Hello Mr. Salon guy! Can I apply this technique after rebonding long length hair?
kim bum: I liked it very detailed thank you.
Carol Reynolds: greatest tutorial that I have seen. thank you so much.
Finnezze: Thank you for this tutorial.:)
priscila pires: I am a hairstylist and I was looking for a vídeo like that a long time!!’ Thank you!!!!
HerrDanilo: Hey Stephen, you spoke of making a round shape for the cut to create the layers. Would you do same procedure for a male long haircut? If not, how it would differ for both genders? Thank you.
Amy Namvong: I wish I can study with teachers like this guide!
Lucy girlbb23: Thank you. this will help me with a problem that happened with a friend of mine.
Adha ղƒ: Thank you for explaining so well. Please next video angle the camera where u don’t have to move it.
Princess Ki: Very usefull video, cheers! :)
Canon Nikon: Thank you for your teaching
Tiffxo: I tend to point cut but some pieces mostly in the back still come out choppy is there a way to make that not happen ??
Marisa Lauania: I have NO experience cutting hair , or watching videos. I didn’t think this was too much information. I really understood it all lol
Jeff and Roz Juptner: Thanks but the screen is cut off at the top when your doing the front layering. That’s the part I really wanted to see!
Leighann Gee: do you have any videos where someone has hair to middle of back but want short angles around the face and shorter layers throughout .I find this difficult to do and blending it all together .love your videos
Mary Gingerich: Very helpful video!
inztynct: grate job! keep doing this
PM Capwell: Some helpful notes, I hope: 1) pull camera back to view entire cut, so you don't have to stop and move it up or down, easier for viewer. 2) yes, too much info in one video, becomes confusing because there are three different cuts on one head at one time, transitions are so quickly illustrated. 3) perhaps make several 'How to Make Layers' videos and name it accordingly, such as Layers, part 1- Sides; Layers part 2- Bangs/Front ; Layers part 3- Short, Medium & Long; Layers- part 4- Thick or Wispy; Layers part 5- What Works, What Doesn't ... etc. 4) This could be like a teaching class and still stay on an every other day schedule. Your instructions are easy to understand, just slow down a little. Just my suggestions as a viewer, not a pro like you. Thanks so much!
Eta: Now I can go cut my sister's hair. Thanks! ❤️
Michelle: I'm a bit confused because when I do layers there always seems to be a line where the layers are, I'm not sure how to make them blend correctly so they don't look so choppy
Hillsy: I went to the hairdressers yesterday and requested a layered haircut. All she did was slid her scissors through my hair. It took literally five seconds to layer my hair. I wasn't happy with that - very lazy.
Jessica Griffith: Probably should’ve watched this before cutting my kids hair will definitely keep this in mind for next time.
Cosmo Gal: I like the way you explain - thank you. One thing though is maybe you can have your camera back a little farther because toward the end you forgot to move camera back up so we could see what you were doing ;-)
maria doherty: thats a lot easier for me to understand, we have learnt to do frame the face layer using the 6 o'clock 12 o'clock method , but the elbow higher up the shorter layers you will get, is a lot better to understand thanks. can i ask, do i always have to do a frame the face layer as a guide before i start doing the rest of layering at the back? or can i just start at the back like you done?
Mojgan Hagi: I found the best techniques layered.I try this.love it.you help me so much
Raul Marquez: The first part was very good and super helpful but the front layer cutting was lost on me. Maybe do a video on the front layering and framing but go slower? Thanks again.
Carly Ramsumair: I learnt alot thank u
Watch Me: Hi love your video I’m doing a barbering course and I first got how to do layers she did it differently I think she got it under the hair at the back. Can you send me a video that has the same as hers ? I forgot because next day was square layer.
Chloe Pavelka: How much did you pay for the manikins? I would like to try practicing on one, if they are not too expensive. :)
bookwrm4evr: Would you take the hair at the same angles for curly hair? I have med textured naturally curly hair and if it's cut with everything pulled up (about 90% of the time, tho ive explained those angles do not work with my hair) I get crypt keeper hair where it's all bunched up at the scalp then thin scraggly hairs at the bottom ...like a weird triangular mullet fro with puffy ears didn't think it was possible, but I get it every time
The Smith family life: Wish you had an online hair academy to teach cutting skills to already licensed people online. :) wink
Vibe'n w/ The Truth: Awesome thanks
Olivia Co: Love this, will try this on my sister’s hair
Abigail Jones: I’m desperately trying to find instructions for a vintage Middy Plus hair cut. Can you do an instructional video for this cut?
Maleah Mounivong: I’m in cos school and have only learned how to do layers using the certain degrees starting at the bottom. Every time I do it, my top layer ends up being super short and I don’t feel confident in cutting an actual persons hair that way. What should I do?
PlatypusGuitar: I made the mistake of getting my hair cut by a student because she's a friend but it really is ugly. I have exactly no money to go somewhere and have it corrected so this tutorial is gonna save the day for me tbh
NotGreatNotTerrible • 48 years ago: My hairs too long ): I can’t hold it up like he. Anyone know if there’s another way/any tips for doing this with long hair?
math's center: its very nice easy to cut hair in layers
Callie B: So I'm in beauty school and would this be something like a 180? We use 180s on longer hair and 90s on shorter. I am wanting to try this but when I explain what I did to my instructors I want to know the name lol
harleen virk: where can you get those doll heads from? sorry I don't know what the name is for that. btw loved it!
Home ImproveMent Tips : I'm an old Barber hairstylist comment at a practiss thanks for the refresher course they're doing a good job bro now God-bless
donyamalak lolo: Great tutorial so big thx ...subscribed
Carol Johnson: I love the video's, where can I find the video's how to layer your own hair?
Mirna Serrano: Thank you for share ur knowledge
plussizedbeauty: THANM YOU SO MUCH. I've watched several people and I swear you ate the only one that made sense to me I have so many units to transform now.
Udit Arora: thanks for showing this video and i tray this cut in my salon
Stuart Reed: As a person new to cutting hair, cutting layers seems to be the most basic thing to learn however, Hair dropping out, starting a layer here, into corners, cutting my base etc. all mean nothing to me so found this video to be useless. Also finger/wrist angle is surely more important than the elbow height.
James Luu: please do a V shape haircut with layers. Thanks
unlimitedwealth1: Lots of info great video thx
Kim Tran: thank you heaps you made things more easy to understand. Amaizings stylist.
blonded: u might have just saved me from embarrassment and a night of crying update: nope i stand incorrect i still fkd it up
hello world: My front hair is longer than the sides and the back of my head. Do i cut it? Been growing my hair for 6 months now
Pixel: Do you use special shears for mannequin hair vs real human hair? I heard the mannequin hair dulls your shears
Cassandra: the best layering video ive ever watched!!
Lady_ Insane86: Everytime im going to salon when all i wanted is a good layer haircut but always ending up of the haircutters also removing the length of my bottom layers too high ! also using a lot of razor and almost lose all my hair and making my hair prone to fly aways and i hate it . I got s phobia on getting a haircut..it’s really hard to find a good hairdresser ..
Laurie Daley: Thanks, I'm hoping this video can save my ass when I have to fix a haircut I totally jacked up today
Amir Herselman: This is good stuff :D
weavile enjoyer: If I’m gonna turn into a scene kid for twenty nine scene watching these is necessary
Royal Magar: This proves you dont need to have a girlfriend to give advice about relationship