How To Cut A Classic Side Part Haircut (On Difficult Hair) - Full Mens Haircut Tutorial

Hi guys welcome back to the legal gentleman youtube channel the hunter collective. Today, we've got ben in the chair. How are you ben good, good, you're good, so tell me what we're doing today. What'S the plan uh, so i so typically i get my haircut like every six weeks, but obviously it's kind of thrown out of it: okay, cool um, so i think typically, i go for a short back and sides and then you know very basic, like a classic. A classic more than yeah, i think, a classic acre, yeah, okay, cool yeah, um and then kind of just coke yeah comes over on on the top okay noise. And how short, would you normally go on the back in size? You have do you use clippers? Do you scissors, do you have a grade? You go to normal like a number two yeah yeah, okay, yeah sure. So it's been a while then yeah, okay, yeah, all right, no worries, yeah, that's cool! That'S cool all right and is that what you want to do today? You wan na do the same kind of thing today, so i mean i guess so kind of since i got into like styling my hair yeah ages ago. Um. I always kind of liked. The look of you know there's like really slick kind of almost like beckham style like yeah, yeah yeah, definitely yeah yeah, but i think i've kind of struggled throughout the years to try to get that. And i don't know if that's because of like the texture of my hair, the color of my hair um, the product or so yeah. I think it would be interesting to kind of know: okay, yeah, yeah um so generally, when you're working with thick straight hair, because i've got the same as you right just a lot greater. Unfortunately, um you tend to have to leave it a lot longer to achieve them looks okay, because the shorter is because it's so thick, and so straight it almost forces itself in the way it wants to grow now. Mine does that so i would not be able to slick this length at all right, maybe with the heaviest of heaviest of pomades, but comes effort then right. So i always think it's going to work with just an easy. It should be easy and effortless to be able to still create that nice style. Okay. So with yours, yeah you, it looks quite short up up the top here, so it looks as though it's being cut really really short or one length up to here and you've got a lot of lines through here, and the crown is already sticking out at the Back so, if you turn your heads to the side, that's sticking out quite a lot through there. Okay, now once it's all wet, we'll be able to see why, but i've got a feeling, it might be just a little bit too short. Okay, that's why it's sticking or just out of interest, have you been leaning on something when you to get here, probably you're, leaning over it could be that as well, but we just that's why a wash is a good thing to do so. Essentially, it's quite short throughout okay. So if you look at them bits there, that's on the top of your head, okay! So it's there right before your yeah, almost right before you crown your crown's there, okay, so it might be hard to get a slick look today, but it will be something we can grow into okay, so it could be a bit of a work in progress. Okay yeah, if this was that short here, not a problem at all, but because it's gone over the round of the head that bit wants to go forward and that bit will spike okay, so it'll stand up just like that very easily. If i lift this bit up, it doesn't stand up as so easily. So if you look at that, it's just standing up already now that that shouldn't be that short yeah with that length, that's good! So you cut it: okay, okay, okay, that all right! That makes more sense yeah, thank goodness for that yeah, okay, right, okay, so rule number one, no diy haircuts now, but we're open we're back open. We do not need lockdown, haircuts, okay, um, but all that's done is is slightly put you back a bit. Okay. Now, obviously you know you if you had to do you have to do it? That'S that's fine. I i can't comment but um with that being so short where it is, is it might limit limit us to having that kind of slick? Look unless we put a pattern in it now have you ever wore a part in your hair before giving you a solid part: okay, okay, more more of a soft one, okay, so for that kind of slick, kind of again, like that kind of rock and rolly Kind of bike, air and you you want that to be a hard person really okay, because if it's slick and just brushed over, it doesn't really have the same effect. Okay, you need that kind of parting, or at least it would come back or something like that to give that classic element to it. If it's just slipped over, it could just look a bit greasy and a little bit kind of flat. So i think, putting the part and then for that kind of style is a really good one, because that's what gives that classic finish to the haircut? Okay is the parson. Now partner is very easy to get the rights if you get in the right place. Okay, so usually, and where i've always done, my partners from is a very classic way, is from the crown to the recession. Point okay, so you just bring it from the crown straight down into the recession point now. Yours is easy because yours is pretty much smack battling in a straight line, literally comes at a slight slight angle, but it's pretty much in a straight line. So if you practice that it'll take you a couple of weeks to practice, it maybe less if you, if you pick it up quicker, but that will give you a bit more of a slicker finish. The only problem is you've cut them short bits right on that line, as you can see there, okay now, unfortunately, i can do with that today at all okay. The only only thing i could do with that is to cut it to that same length, which i don't want to do so i think we need to disguise them bits and then cut the rest in the way we normally would okay. So i reckon you because your hair is slightly finer. I reckon you could probably get away with that much off, and that would still give you the slick finish that you that you want to achieve because we're going down to the number two as well. It should be, it shouldn't, be too bad, it's just where that bit is there well why'd that, be i wasn't just i don't know. I think it was just sticking out: okay, okay, cool all right. Well, at least we know in future not to do that. All right leave it to the pros. Yet exactly that's right! It'S like me, it's like it's! It'S! Okay doing it! Obviously you know everyone. Does it it's just knowing where to do it. That'S the only thing. Okay, so it's a bit down here. It wouldn't be too much of an issue because we're gon na cut that anyway, but essentially you want to leave as much length on the top as you can within reasons. Obviously, so it still looks fresh and cut. So i think with yours. It still sits nice and classic. So i reckon you probably get away with taking off about that, much to still create that classic finish. Okay and then we can still wait that right down to number two. It will start to look really nice, so hopefully it should work today. Obviously we have to leave these little bits together, but that's not an issue at all. It'S fine um, i'm just concerned how this is going to stick out. So i want to see what that's like when it's washed and then we'll be able to know where that's going to play at its part, but yeah. Essentially, i think it'll be a really nice finish. I think the twos are two's. Quite short, so it'll be quite quite a sharp finish the circle. So i think it'd be nice. But if you're happy to do that and try the part and i'll show you a choice of pomade to use as well, which would be really nice for you as well yeah give it a go. Yeah awesome! All right, then good right, we'll give it a shampoo and condition and then we'll get started all right right. So i've just shampooed the conditioned bends here now i really want to see how this side here is sitting. Now it's wet okay, because if it's kicking out it's wet it's going to kick off when it's dry, that's my rule! So i'm going to have a little look at this. So i'm going to work this, so we work with very, very ultra straight hair. You want to work in the way the hair wants to grow now. Ben not only has super straight air and he wants to wear a part in it. He'S also got a crazy double crown as well. Okay, so look at that: let's go crown there and crown this. That is a solid double crown right, but it's workable okay, because if you look at that it falls over the other side nicely. Okay, so it's workable! We just need to make sure we leave that to the very end and we basically just freehand cut that bit to make it sit flat. Okay, so we're gon na. Do i'm gon na get rid of the the crown i'm gon na start with the horseshoe section? Now i wan na cut the backing sides in first, because i need to see how it's gon na sit from the crown as well just a bit. Where then cut right on the round of the head, the worst place. He could have possibly chosen to cut it, but it's all right. You know we live and we learn, as you can see them, but so so when we, when we do the separation around the head, you'll see why i do it so then bit one two forwards: okay, so i'm trying to work with the way the hair wants. The naturally formula this one's to fall forward, so this doesn't want to fall down. So that's definitely not the top of the head at the top of the head. This wants to go forward, so that's definitely the top of the head. So that's! What'S quite nice, when you separate it, is you see the way it actually wants to fall, so i'm gon na work with this crown? Okay, so i'm actually gon na put this crown into play with this horseshoe. So i'm gon na comb this out from here and i'm gon na work it with it. So i'm going to drop that a little bit there. We go so that's spiraling out from the crown into what would be a horseshoe and then there's the other crown here and, as you can see, it's wanting to sit quite flat. So what i'm going to do is i'm going to start horseshoe from that side there, leaving that in play. Okay, the best thing to do with double crowns is just to work with them. Do not try and fight them. The only two things you can really do with a double crown, or i say the three things you can do with a double crown is you can either work with it like i am and get the best out of it or you can cut it right off Or you can leave it super long, but they're the only things you may do with it right, but i'm working with it. I always think it's the best option to do that. That way, you know exactly how it's gon na fall when it's dried as well. So that is the good thing about working with a double crown. Now that side is slightly higher, so i'm just going to drop it down a touch like that. There we go perfect either side, so i'm going to click this at the back, just to keep it in control and just on a little bit there, i'm just going to one second, i'm just going to clip them out of the way too, because it's at the Point now, where it will, as it starts to dry they'll, probably start to fall into that section, which i want to try and keep them out of there we go like so now, i'm going to try this off before we start. We should just try it loosely with the fingers just to try the hair for when we start with the clippers. So there we go so now, it's all being washed and i've dried it through. That side isn't sticking up too much stickiness a little bit, but i can control that when i come to clipper in it, so i think we'll be okay, so start on a three go head down for me, such now, three on the back here. Further back, as you see with the double crown, it will give a bit of lift and a bit of height there, because we're gon na be working over the crown. So we don't need to worry about leaving too much length through the corner here through this bit. Just above the octave of the bone, if you feel it, it doesn't protrude out too much very standard. So we can get away with taking this a bit higher up here which will really really help when it comes to working through this corner here, because, obviously, as you can see, it sticks out a little bit through there as well, starting on my number three and We'Re going to about here so thank you, um you good inside um uh, now moving on to my tuna, so two and a half turn into the three beautiful. So the reason for number three is like mainly bulk production. Okay, so i always like to do a bit of a longer grade, just that you know if you come across any problem areas or anything that, but the two might expose you know where to work to and from there we go same on this side. You can up and off into the three and then finally into our number two, my in a little bit okay, so i'm going to work on the taper first, so again we're going for quite a classic haircut. So i think a nice classic taper will be very nice for this as well give a bit more of a kind of sharper finish as well. We'Ll do quite quite a quite a strong taper to this as well so um, you start to see it really cutting into zero down the bottom, that real classic finish so starting on my one guard: leave it break it up and off to really expose the neckline. This will give a lovely contrast to when you're wearing it really slick on the top we're working in between the one and the one, the half so the lever, just in the middle and then down to the way and then down to the one same. The other side, one and a half up into that two into the middle in between the one and the one half and then into the one. There we go. One guard off onto the open blade now leave her back into the half position and we can open off and then halfway from being fully closed and then closed down to the zero. Now i'll move the mast down finish off the sides, shout to my number two, i'm working off and off into the sides foreign. How would you like your side bench? Would you like them squared off or do you want to blend them down? Uh? I think it's going off squared off yet always i'm just moving on to one and a half, i'm just working that around the ears just to taper yeah and then just tip the side bends just to create exactly where this. The sharpest point would be for the square enough, so i think, as you can see it's much stronger about there, so that'll create a nice best strength in the sideburn too same again. This side, so we'll do now, is we'll blend it in so start from the back, especially starting from where the crown is i'm going to start the blend, i'm working up and off hang on the teeth towards me to layer that crown as soon as you want To layer in the teeth towards me, it keeps the heaviness off. Okay, i'm working down on this one: hmm um mm-hmm foreign, three, i'm just working through the cone smooth off that blend tap on your little bit, starter spiking out as well foreign. There you go see me on the other side, now head down a little bit, hang on the teeth towards me to lay that crown on so three, i'm just working down again there we go just tied. You know we're about to wait to now. So i'm going to work around the edging now lying out of the hairline. So again, i'm not going to cut too far in. I don't think it's needed on this hairstyle just going to strengthen it up and clean up the temple into the side, bends and pop a nice line at the right height for the side, bends too so ben, i would say about there: that'd be okay for you. For the for the line on the side, yeah cool, okay, yeah this little loop around the ear just work over that with the cone, i'm going to strengthen that neckline, so i'm going to cut into it slightly to really strengthen it up my easy there we go Same again, on the other side, no, it's a lot look so using middle finger. I just find a point on that side and work up until it matches there. We go turn to the side and there's my line resting it on my index finger and just turn. It to a semi circle, or so moving around with that and just cleaning up and place it on middle finger same thing again to meet in the middle a little bit of a comb just to taper. In any little longer bits you may have missed with the clipper heads um: hey, hey yeah! Now we can move the extender just finish through the back and therefore just work on the taper down the bottom, sharpen off the bottom of the neckline. There we go now. I'M just going to go over a little bit of scissor comb just on the neckline through here, just working up from the bottom size, 5 comb just working all the way up. Yes, i've been through here i'm going to work on properly when we've connected the top. All right, so i'm just working on the clipperwork, a scissor of a comb. Now there we go cool now, let's see this all there, we go. Let'S work from that part, and so put it straight down like so as you can see, working with that crown, that part is going to work really nicely. Okay, there we go uh there we go all right, so i'm just going to cut that side of the partner first see here. What i'm going to do, i'm going to work here, stairs and connect underneath, like so keep that connecting on the sides there we go and we'll find that with this as a comb when we come to the end, there's essentially a apart and cut on that side. So we need to work on the top now, so we want to leave this section here, the longest point, so what we do we're going anything classic like this, as i never take a section from where the parting is. I take a section from the middle because we essentially want to leave this section the longest, so i can sweep over and create that squareness through here and that sits in through that side as well. So this needs to be the longest point of the haircut. So i'll start by working in the middle and i'll naturally keep that side longer there. Okay, so are you okay to take off what we thought before that'd be okay, yeah, yeah cool? So can we get away with about that? Just to be sure, now i'm cutting this nice and straight nice uniform because the classic haircut so we're not looking for texture in the circle. We'Re looking for precision we're looking for shape primary shape is the main focus today, as we are doing a very, very classic haircut. That needs to be cut in the perfect style for it to work now to get towards the back. I'M going to stop just as we get to about here there we go just so we can work on the crown a bit later, so we're starting to build that table now. So this is the longest point now, and this will be the longest point in the top when we come to finish and we'll work just off center now and there's the guide that i'm going to use right back again when i just get to this section here With near the crown, i'm gon na cut that and then i'm gon na leave the crown are later okay next session is here so going from the front, i'm going to keep that nice and straight there's my guy from the top there's my guy from the clipperwork. Now we're going to use really small sections now because we're connecting in the top into that transition point i'm gon na stop there. Just for now there we go now. I'M just gon na cross check lean it over i'll forget about a little bit there. You see how close them sections were very little cross checking to do. I have to sit nicely. The fringe is left longer because we pulled that back to the recession. Point we've got the fringe now down now. This needs to be cut on an angle. Okay, so remember we're leaving this side here the longest, so the fringe needs to be kept the longest. So it needs to be cut on this angle here so asymmetric. Okay, because we're leaving a bit of length in there and bring that down, lose out the weight and use that, as i guide the fingers on the shape, i want to go and cut what we should do. We should end up matching on the other side. There we go matching to there and then matching to the side. What it does is it sweeps over. It all connects and it all falls nicely into the side as well. Now i'm going to connect in the crown just by doing a horizontal section like so leaving all that length there just bring that across, like so and very loose tension to it same here same here, just cutting these little bits. Okay! So that's something really nice! What we'll do i'm going to dry it off, then we'll thin out a touch and then we'll perfect anywhere that we need to perfect so a little bit of spray and use a medium feed them to small round brush start on the left hand side face with The partners and then we'll dry from section from the right over to the center. So what we'll do now is try it in the back and dry it round the side. So in section so i'm trying this on a medium heat and a medium speed. Now i'm just wrapping the brush the roots and just rolling it over like that. There we go so now. This i'm just trying to everything, just feel that's dry you'll see how it's going to look as well just across the blend, just with a bit of scissor of a comb, make sure that's sitting nice break up the ends as well. Yeah. Now, when it comes to this crown here now, let's just freeze it, usually you head down for me slightly there we go. I'M gon na start to layer this in i'm lifting up elevation, i'm just working slowly down yes and then we're going to point those into a little bit outside this, which is a little bit softer there. You go same on this side more slightly forward yeah. Now, that's a little bit don't work over with the clippers just to cap off any bits that if i could sit a little bit closer in ah just check every which way. Now. Last but not least, i'm going to point her through just the thin out a little bit as well. This is the ends just to take that thickness away. I'M not cutting into this side. Here i want to keep the weight in there, so it holds itself keeps yourself sweeping over into the side. Part too. I think that's all we need to do there. We go a little bit of cold air to finish yeah awesome now. Do you want to sleep with a bit of pomade yeah, awesome notice right, so i'm going to use a product called rusal? Okay, this is like the the ultimate kind of pomade brand, really um. They used to just specialize in these. I think it was a pink and the was it the green and the red. Wasn'T, i think, with the originals weren't, they i think yeah. I think so now this the green one that just the smell of it i mean, i don't know if you can smell through your mask, but you never try. If you want it smells incredible: it's like a seed. Okay, it's like an acidity kind of smell, so you'd use about - maybe i don't know - maybe a piece of maybe a tiny bit more, maybe bigger than a pea-sized amount. Okay, a bit into your hands and what i'd say first is put it along the part, because that is the problem area, so you can see that's holding them little bits down right now, so put it over there like that, okay work it through next thing from The front to the back right through the blend, to finish and through the back and the sides as well just to gloss the back inside, so you've got the same color when the light hits it it's one good thing, you're gon na do is make sure you, The remainder of your hands around the blood around the clip away, because when, when the light it looks the same colour, don't just look really wet on top really slick on top, but nothing else on the other side and now comb into place. So what you're left with is a nice slick, hairstyle and whatever you got left just place over to finish and there you go nice small circle, coffee yeah. Definitely like. I think i like this and also like before you did the comb with like the kind of hand. Combed one was quite nice as well: oh yeah, of course the beauty is, you can wear it anyway? You really want you know. If you want it a bit drier now, this is the kind of slick finish you get, so it sits really really smart super super small haircut with the part in it and, as you can see, the pomade is holding them little ones down as well, got a Really nice slick finish to that as well. But if you wanted just natural, you put a clay in there as well. If you wanted to and just have it more natural because i'd still stick the part in there, though, because i think it really helps, especially with the shorter bits, but that is essentially a really nice classic finish. Thank you very much. I love doing the classics. You know i don't get many of the kind of classic ass. Does it's quite nice when you get a proper classic, pomade one, so so um yeah? Just to recap, we did a two back inside and benny wanted quite a classic finish, but obviously at the start, he'd cut his own hair in little bits, but the problem was there was kind of smack bang on the round of the head, so they were automatically Going to stick up and he's got a solid double crown as well, which can be an issue if you don't work with it. So what we did was um two back and sides, but the way we horseshoe the top - we let the crown be involved in the horseshoe, so normally i'd kind of get rid of the crown and get it out the way. But on this one i kind of went with it. So, whichever way it was forcing itself down, i worked at that and then separated it and just kind of stopped the horseshoe weight of the crown and continued the horseshoe. On the other side and two, i started with a three and then went down into a two, the nice sort of quite tight taper, very classic taper and blend it in, and then i went down with the clipper as well. That'S a good way of kind of just finishing off kind of very straight spiky hair that sticks out. You basically just kind of cut the shape in yourself, and it helps to keep it growing in that shape as well. I find it works really well for me and then, through the top. I cut it into the part and first connected this side in nice and easy and then because this bit was sticking up, it's actually sitting flat. Now we want to leave this section here so from the center of the head to the pattern we want to leave toe. I completely leave the length because that's where it needs to be the longest bit so as it sits in this shape. This length here is creating that shape through there. Okay, if that was too short, it would be doing that and going out so it'll be almost making that point, whereas now you're getting more that shape. Okay, that's why you want to leave that, but by leaving the there's some length of this blend here as well, that's what creates the shape of a part, and i would never really shave up to the part, because that way you just end up being, like really Short, it rounds off one side and then the other side stays nice and square. So i always try and keep both sides balanced and that's what i was always taught as a very classic haircut and and then yeah finished off with a bit of free hand, especially over the crown, because i wanted to see exactly how that was going to force A bit scissor over comb and then just a bit horizontal um section as well, just to kind of cross check the blend really and then to finish with a bit of point: cotton just to thin out just through that panel. Here, just on the right hand, side from the recession back just to get thin out the the very ends, because it's a little bit thick on that side and you get a bit of build up when you wear it over to one side. It just helps to thin that out and then finish it a bit of green rosel and yeah. That'S it all done. Looks awesome, really good. Thank you very much. You