How To Cut And Style Slicked Back Hairstyle - Brushed Back Hairstyle - Greg Zorian Haircut Tutorial

For our model, today, we have a lot of hair to work with. This is going to be a really exciting haircut. What we're going to do is we're going to keep the top longer we're going to give a nice taper around the outline of the haircut and what we're going to have today is we're gon na have a slightly disconnected haircut, and what I mean by disconnected is On the sides here on the top, especially in the front, the model has a lot of hair, which you would like to keep and longer in the front. But we're gon na have a nice taper underneath and we're going to layer that in so the hair in the front is going to kind of hang over a little bit. But we need the longer length on top. So we can either comb the hair straight back. For this particular style, this this model likes to slicked his hair straight back, but we can also let the hair fall down. We can go one side. We can go to the other side so with longer hair. On top, we have that versatility, and so I'm going to show you a few different techniques called over directing is one of them, where we're actually going to over direct the hair back to the middle of the ear. When we cut the top and use that as our guide and that's what's going to give us the longer length in front so when we look at the when we look at the top length, we're basically going to have this. This type of angle, if you were to pick it straight up, so that means it's going to be a lot longer in the front, then it is going to be in the back and as we spin the client around you can see, he has a lot of Hair in the back very thick, so we're gon na have to use some different texturising techniques with a couple different size, thinning, shears and also a straight razor, and he has a pretty difficult hairline. So we're gon na we're gon na taper that out we're gon na. Actually do a one to two finger taper or fade right around the outline of the haircut and then by thinning out and layering. The underneath portion that hair is gon na lay down easier. So it's not going to be puffed out so far. So what we want to do, what we want to start out with first is we're going to freshly shampoo them. So we get the hair wet down all the way through and we're going to be able to control it better and how I'm going to do. It is going to section the hair off to one side and we're going to cut the underneath and then we're going to do the same thing in the back and on the other side. Instead of clipping it up so right now we're going to firstly, shampoo, the hair and we're going to come back and start the haircut okay. So we're right at the middle of the ear and I'm gon na take just about an inch off, not a lot, because we want the top to be the longest. So now now that we made our first cut, this is going to serve as our guide as we work our way throughout the rest of the haircut I like to use a traveling guide, meaning I always have the previous guide in my hand. I don't like to drop the hair because once I drop the hair and then take another section, you're in danger of it, not being that, even so as long as I have the tension on the hair and that hair in my hands, I'm going to comb the Hair back and as I rotate the comb that hair is still in there and I have my previous guy right there underneath so I know exactly what I'm doing now. I want to take very small sections that way I ensure that the hair is going to be cut evenly. If I take wide sections I'm going to have to cross-check and come back the other way and you're going to see you and if you don't take sections small enough you're going to see a little weight lines which we don't want to. So I'm going to take one more section here and now I'm going to spin the client around and show you what we're gon na do in the back, so that was our travelling guide. So now our traveling guide becomes stationary, so traveling obviously means traveling. The guide moves, stationary means the guy stays right where it is so now that guide stays where it is. I don't want to cut the hair too short in the back and have it standing up, but at the same token I don't want to guess so. I'M just gon na comb that make one section right across right right where his split his natural, his natural break in the back, is which you can see right there and we're gon na comb. That straight up, I still haven't. Let go of my guide and we're gon na comb that forward. So in the front we over directed back in the back we're over directing forward so now that gives us with the hair longer in the back. So it's not going to stand up and longer in the front, so it's going to so it's going to hang over and I'm gon na take a higher section here and I'm gon na start, my layering, and what this is gon na do is. This is going to create a guide for my clipper, my clipper over comb technique, my clipper work from the bottom up and then once we get all that blended in then we'll use our texturizing techniques to thin the hair out. So it doesn't push the top out too far. So I know that's a lot, but you know we'll go slow, we'll take it step-by-step. So what I'm doing is I'm using vertical sections and I'm using my traveling guide, so I'm taking very small sections, so the smaller the section, the more even your haircuts going to be you're not going to have any clipper marks. If you take sections that are too wide, what's going to happen, is you're going to wind up missing hair and the hair is gon na get longer as you get towards the front, so another rule I have is I make one cut then I I put the Hair in at a 45 degree angle, I rotate the comb and I put pressure on the head, so I have tension on the hair, so even without holding with my fingers, I have the tension on my hair and then I regrip. So it's two moves, so I take two sections and then I either turn the chair or I move my feet and if I don't do either what's gon na happen, is I'm gon na start reaching and my body's gon na lean over and I'm gon na wind Up that the comb is gon na wind up going lower and lower, because I'm reaching and the hair is gon na be longer towards the front. I want to even all the way across so I'm gon na angle, my comb, my comb is gon na, be angled. So I meet my guide, I cut to my guide, but I don't cut my guide and I'm also angled out a little farther towards the front to allow for that hair to be longer in the temple area, okay and the whole time, I'm cutting what I want To do is I want to comb the hair or, as I like to say, keep the hair neat while I'm cutting, I don't like it messy. I want to make sure that when I make a few cuts, I call them the hair and make sure it's doing what I want it to do. So it's combing back nicely. I'M following the contour of the head shape now we're going to work on the back. So I'm going to drop it down just a little bit lower in the back, so I want to meet my guy, but I don't want to cut my guide so I'm just taking an imaginary line, I'm calming down taking imaginary line straight up in the air. Until I run out of hair and that way we're going to eliminate leaving a mushroom or a weight line that needs to be blended out, so I'm going to do half the head and now, as we start, I'm starting very close to the head at the bottom. Just to work on tapering out that hairline, so now, all of a sudden it doesn't look as scary as it did when we first started it just kind of works itself out versus. If you do, the outline first you're gon na have to do it twice. I'Ll always do the outline last. Are you a member of how to cut hair TV, learn the art of men's barbering from third-generation master, barber Greg's Orion in full, HD 24/7 from anywhere in the world, sign up for your free membership and learn how to increase your efficiency and make more money behind The chair: how to cut hair TV it doesn't pull or drag on the hair at all the slower. I move it, the more thickness I'm going to take out faster. I move it the less thickness I'm going to take out, so I'm going to move it at a slow pace because I want to take quite a bit of thickness out now is like holding that hair down and combing across. You can see the difference, how it's laying down better and I'm going to go through all the way to the front right temple. With this technique, I'm going to use the claw hold the comb at a 45 degree angle or diagonal, and then every time I make a few passes, I'm going to comb the hair and see how it's behaving and make sure it's coming into place. Now, when I comb the hair back, you can see the difference. It just stays there. Now we're going to do the same thing in the thought. Again, we have to be careful when we get in front of the ear a section that off and comb it over again. We want a sextant lower because we want to leave more hair on top and what we're gon na do it, because the hair is dried out a little bit. We want to give it a little bit of water a little bit of spritz, so it stays over and then the fine teeth of the comb will help. Also so now you can see on this side. Our guide is up here so now we want to blend to that. So on this side we did scissor over fingers to sections and we blended it in with clipper over comb. Now what I want to show you is how you could do the whole thing with clipper over comb and eliminate those first two steps and wind up with the same results. So I'm going back to my my adjust or not I'm sorry, my um detachable blade, clipper rotary motor clipper and now we're going to do it all all clipper over comb. So we're going to start out in tight at the bottom and I can see the guide in my. I can see the previous guide in my comb at all times and, as I said now, we're eliminating picking it up with our fingers and taking those vertical sections. So that eliminates a step, but it does not sacrifice quality at all. It increases our and I don't like to use the word speed. It increases our efficiency because we're accomplishing the same thing but with two less steps. So now, as we come towards the back, we're gon na bend the head straight down, okay and we're - I don't want anybody to get intimidated when you see a hairline like this. All we're gon na do is we're gon na lay that comb flat on the neckline and we're gon na use it like an attachment and roll it out. So basically, we have sixteen eighth quarter. Three eighths so we'll be like using one two, three and four, so you're number one number two number three and number four attachments, and that works the taper right out without taking the attachment combs on and off, because we want to clean out all that excess hair. Before we go in with the open blade and use our scooping motion and finish the to finalize the taper and when we're on the bottom that comb or the Clipper blade is always parallel to the floor. And then we're going to come in a little bit of an angle on the side and we're going to soften that line up in the corner. So when we come back with our outliner, we get a nice straight diagonal line. So now, on the other side, I want to keep the comb parallel to the floor. I don't want to round which is tempting to round here, because his hairline isn't, as his hairline is higher up in this corner here than it is in this corner. So we want to try to match them up the best we can, and then he has a thinner spot here in here. So you're going to find that with a lot of guys, so the closer we can taper it just one finger width at the bottom, then you're not going to see these two thinner spots so nobody's hairline is perfect. Everybody'S hairline is different and we have to work with the hairline we've been given and we're going to taper that out and finalize the fade on the neckline so that calm star, that the clipper blade stays parallel to the floor and parallel to the outline of the Hair, okay, so we're going to go all the way across with the blade open first and on this side the hair is growing straight up. So I'm going to take the Clipper and go down. So we want a nice clean line there. Okay, we're gon na clean up the hair on the neck, just a little bit on the corner of the beard here, so it blends in with the. If your neckline, we want a nice sharp outline there. Now we're going to spin them around and we're going to clean up the hair on the neck right down to the t-shirt line. I don't want to get close to the hairline, because, if I put a little nick or a hole in that hairline, then we're gon na have to raise it up. Introducing Zoran of New York premium grooming products for the modern man designed by third-generation master, barber, Gregg's Orion, made in the USA and not tested on animals. Each of our styling products is infused with natural ingredients and features light clean fragrances. Our two-in-one, shampoo and conditioner is sulfate and paraben free and color safe. Do you own a barber shop or salon rent, a chair or run a school, find out how we support our retailers with world-class barbering education and product knowledge, training, we're currently accepting applications for wholesale accounts and invite you to apply on our website zoria of New York? We'Re gon na go with a straight slicked back hair style. That'S how we're gon na style it we're gon na use ours Orient of New York pomade to style it, but the first thing that we want to do is we want to blow-dry it all straight back. So that way, the pomade is gon na grip, the hair better and you're gon na get a much stronger hold when the hair is dry. So, basically, what I want to do is I want to use a hairdryer with a nozzle on it to direct the heat. I want to use a vent brush and we're gon na dry, all the hair straight back. So, what's gon na happen is initially it's going to be a little bit puffy, but then, once we put the pomade on it and and and comb it back brush it back and flick it all straight back, it'll it'll fall right down into place. The main thing is that we have the haircut correct and then we blow dry and style the hair correctly. So this is what I find to be kind of the missing step. A lot of guys want to rush through their style in the morning. If you don't dry the hair and style it properly, it's not going to come out right at the hair slightly damp or too wet it dilutes the product you're not going to have enough hold and the hair is not going to slicked back or in another case. If you're going to comb it to the side, either way, it's not going to stay okay now we finished blow-drying the hair. So we have it blown drying all straight back and that's why we wanted to leave the hair so much longer on top and longer in the front, so that hair would stay back. So now, what we're going to do is we're going to take ours. Orient of New York classic pomade, it has all natural ingredients of jojoba and ginseng in it. So what we want to do is we want to take. Obviously, since he has a lot of hair, we want to take an ample amount, a good amount there, maybe just a touch more because we want to really slick it down so about that much. This is a water-soluble product. So, even though we're using that much and it's gon na slick it back really good, it will rinse out in the shower just with 30 seconds of water, and then it shampoos out real, easy and there's no leftover residue. So what we want to do is we want to mull safai the product in our hands. We want to get that through there really good okay, we want to spread it through early throughout, and then I want to take my fingers first and get it right down to the roots and after we get it down to the roots, it's still on your hands. Really good, so we want to really press that down and really slick it back. So what this is going to do is it's gon na show off the shape, I'm just going to show off the shape of the haircut and it's going to show off the taper as well. So I want to get that again right down to the roots. We'Re gon na slick that back and at the end, we're going to give it just a little bit of lift in the front. But the first thing we need to do is comb it all the way through. So I want to take a really strong comb and then event brush and comb. It all the way through so step. Number one is we're going to take a strong comb comb that through first all the way through and then we're going to take a vent brush and we're going to comb it through again now all along. I still have the product on my hand, so as especially on the sides I'm pushing it down as I'm combing it. I have that product on my on my hands as well, okay and then at the very end. We just want to push down on the fun a little bit and push it forward, just a touch just to give it a little bit of lift in the front. So it's not so perfectly slicked down and then, as I spin them around, you can see how that really shows off that nice, natural taper. The sides are laying down nicely. I mean, if you remember in the beginning, you had really thick hair, so a taper, and that graduated outline really makes that long, hair on top stand out so again for a quick review, how we style the hair and we dried it through thoroughly. So the product would work better would have a lot more hold because it's water-soluble again it's a classic pomade from the saurian of New York. A line featuring the all-natural ingredients of a whole been ginseng. Water base is going to rinse out really easily and it's going to the hold will last all day you