Understanding Hair Color Pigments
- Posted on 18 August, 2019
- Hair Knowledge
- By Anonymous
Understanding hair's underlying pigments helps you formulate colors to overlay or to counteract any brassy colors. Get your Guy Tang #Mydentity swatch book at the website and get the new Shadow Ash collection in-stores and online.
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Do you teach a load all the help that you've been with I'm here with my client of how many years hi? No it's all right, I will just say 7, because it's been 7 years. Danny is her name and checkup. How long our hair is. Now your natural parents bought level 2. So it's like black brown. This is the base color we applied a year ago. This was once naked and dusty lavender mixed together, totally ready for you. Oh you don't really care. Well, I don't so you read get started. Let'S go come on alright, so now that we're inside I want you guys to see what her color looks like lighting, it's pretty much black! You can see where I lived at her base with a level 6 ash last time that kind of embrace in transition. I don't want to over highlight her hair, because I don't want her hair to break. I actually prefer Benny's hair long as possible, so when hair is really dark and you're trying to lift them to our level 10, 9 or 8 or 7 you're gon na expose some warmth as it little turn red and orange II. You want to lift her up to around a level 6, so the only way to control it is by using an ash color. So the shadow ash collection is able to mute out the breath and give it a beautiful control Brown. I am gon na use. Our new shadow ash 6 and what I'm gon na add is dark shadows. Dark shadows is at a level 5 calibrate it with a lower ammonia level. So it's gon na prevent hot woods, so I am going to use 20 volume. My first formula, I'm gon na, apply only on the Rouge. You don't want to override celebrate on the scalp. That'S why I'm using 20 on the scalp and 30 in the mid shaft, because the mid shaft is cold. You have to accelerate it. Furthermore, to give it that boost, I'm gon na leave the hair, naturally dark as possible to the transition, looks more like slate. Alright, the second formula for a base - color, is shadow ash 7. Okay, so this is gon na, be one permanent shot. Now I'm gon na shift the volume of developer, so I'm moving up to 30 volume. I'M gon na apply the second formula through from mid-shaft starting from her nape area working my way up and transition into the previous base, just like this minimal product enables you to blend seamlessly, keep the area nice and clean by applying a messy down. So now we're gon na process for 30 minutes so got Benny over the shampoo ball right now, but what's really important that you don't want the ash color to bleed into the blonde. I grabbed her hair, since it's very very long, I'm just gon na tie it around her neck. It allows me to rinse the ultrabass without bleeding on to the blonde. There'S that nice ash brown it looks like it should be your natural hair color earlier she had that demarcation line. Now, look how integrated it looks. I am gon na use big 9 with 40 volume. I don't want the big night to over lit your hair. Something makes it 1 to 2 ratio, the 40 bottom now my goal is to connect the highlights, so I'm not gon na highlight every single section and it'll leave some out, so I'm gon na start on the left side of her neck here. Micro highlighted - and this will be a baby light right in an ape, I'm going to take bitten, fine slices and when I move up to the top I'm gon na do the baby lights. You have dimension. Let'S take this thin section here, I'm gon na back home back up into the scalp itch. So with the big 9. I am gon na swipe it on Sephora. I am gon na go ahead and drag this up and place it on top of itself. I find sometimes when the hair is too long, it's too cold on the ends, and it doesn't do it. It may do it for overlay, I'm taking a half an inch section, so I get to the top. So I finished boiling her whole entire backside and then now I'm working around the side. I did leave a bunch of hair out. I want to incorporate our previous on right into what we were done so when she comes back, maybe six months later or a year later I highlight around it. So now I'm working around the face, there's a low demarcation. I could choose to weave the hair, but I really want the pieces about her face to really pop, so I'm just got back home this whole section in painting on the foil, so we're going at a diagonal boiling method and feather vertically - and I do about to Read back-to-back foils like this around the front of the face before I start skipping anything all right so now that we're up to the front, I'm sure it goes into I could be. This is very, very important when I say be so. I do one side first before I do the next to the first couple slices around her face frame. I take thin pieces no weaving here, but I am gon na back home, so there's got ta, lay the foils and do not overlap whatsoever. I'M gon na do three back-to-back foils of slices before I start weaving baby license so get to the top of her head. The density is all bit different just due to the shape of her head. So now that I did the three back-to-back foils. This is where we're gon na do the baby light. It'S gon na do back-to-back baby lights, so there's no skipping, so I still take thin sections and I'm gon na micronized. These highlights, you can see the stitching and only back home this piece and anchor it down in the next section above it now we're doing everything back-to-back so make sure everything is thinly, sliced just like this, so it's been about 40 minutes Wow, so she lifted pretty Light there, it's mainly like about level nine. Now my goal isn't to lift her hair completely white. I just want to work with what's going on here, so I'm actually gon na tone her hair back down the fine hairs, always look really nice and bright. Look how blonde data is the formula with Eclipse is gon na shadow. Any of this, and I'm going to put the Misti mop in through the end so whole tube of misty model. The Eclipse was going to give this color deposition and you're gon na mix one to two ratio with a dedicated developer six-volume I'm gon na slide tap right into there. That'S gon na indicate that that's the shower. If formula of some this thing off by itself, misting off it's a great toner foundation to mute out all that brass, alright, so the one with Eclipse is even have more shadow in it. This is gon na be applied over damp hair. If you can choose to leave it on for five or to leave it up to twenty five minutes, if you want to the longer you leave it on the more color deposit, you're gon na get alright. So now I'm going on my second formula and dragging it down it's okay, to mix the previous formula and just kind of pull it in so there's a transition in between alright. So it's been about 15 minutes in and you need to see how the color process you see the misty mock it at that depth of color. The Mothe tone cancels out the gold in a yellow. So when rinse this out, you see a lot of beige reflection with a touch of almost like a smokey lilac mob tone, which is so beautiful. Look, how pretty does we're not done yet? I'M gon na overlay a final gloss on top, so you can see where all four highlights fish marks are gone. But when you look at her ends, it just has that little bit of lovely beige tone, which is really really pretty. We could literally stop here, but I like to do like a final overlay. I love using silver smoke to create, like a smoky cast over like a brown base when I say multi-levels root, almost 6, 8 and 10, that's pretty epic, so there's so many ways to utilize it. I love to create a style root anyway. You know her. Hair is already showered it. I still make sure there's enough pigment there. So there is longevity. The second formula it's gon na be 8 SS, and now our third formula, 10 SS, a little bit of today, I'm gon na, apply the first formula on her vataj. Now, I'm on to formula 2, I'm applying it only on the mid shot and I'm leaving the ends out. Some apply. The third final formula I'll also apply it on the midship two. Just so it merge. My confidant shampoo actually brings clarity to your color. So after I rinse out the shampoo I'm gon na spray on it and new my hero, collagen repair spray, over 30 % of our body has collagen in it. So the collagen helps repair the hair after rinse off in my hero, collagen repair treatment, I'm going in with my khatma conditioner, that's so much moisture and it feels really luxurious. If any tell me how you feel I love it. I love this because it's like dark, but then is kind of light. At the same time, when you're dealing with hair, as naturally dark as Benny, you have to go through multiple steps to lift it up, just to bring it down, no matter which lighting we're in is pretty look at this. The gradients like thumbs up subscribe picked that vowels to get all the notification. When I put up new videos follow me on Instagram and Facebook. I love you guys so much
Comments
Pure Estrogen: This cliff notes version is EVERYTHING I needed. Thank you!
2shadowcats2: Your knowledge of colour and pigment theory is phenomenal!! You should write a book!!
Rebelle Game: Make a show. We need you to be a judge on aspiring hair stylists ASAP.
vovowo: Who else likes watching Guy Tang even though you don’t understand 90% of what he says about hair?
hairmakeupbyfaith: I’m in cosmology school right now I love watching your videos. You teach me so many new things that school doesn’t touch on. Your such a true great artist!!!! Thank you for sharing your talent!!
Phetsakone Sipanya: I wish I wish I could get my hair done by this man!!!!
time tells: This is beautiful!! I just wanted to tell you that you are the reason I will be going to school in January for cosmotology. I've been watching you since 2015 and I've admired your technique and the way you treat your clients so wonderfully!! I love you and your work and I can't wait to start my dream career. Love you Guy!!! ❤️❤️❤️
joblank74: Guy Tang is an artist! Anyone who says differently doesn’t know art when they see it! This almost brought tears to my eyes. Stunningly beautiful!
Ladosha Wright: I love it! I've attended many Schwarzkopf training classes and they were really into layering colors. All of this makes sense, when you consider how much we shampoo our hair. So, as she washes her hair, it'll look better and not fade so fast.
hobuspobus: This really helped, you're a great and generous teacher! Thank you for your wonderful videos. That is so true that some people have dark hair and you have to lift it just to get it rid of the red tones before you get your goal shade. I did this today, lifted toned and then toned again. Some might have said why, but I know that in the end I got the shade I'd been aiming for. Btw as always beautiful hair look forward to the next videos xx
Crystal Dao: I’ve missed videos like this !! Don’t worry about cutting parts out !! I love watching it all. I’ve learned so much in this video. After you lightened her up, did you use olaplex no 2? Or because you’re using you new x2 spray you didn’t ? How else do I learn about your products and hair products. I’d love to understand more about the new series
Tataí Insertlastnamehere: I appreciate that Guy always shows how different color appears in different lighting. It's so important. I also appreciate how transparent he is with the process and always going back to basics. He is such an inspiration and a great teacher. 8 years in the industry and although times can be discouraging, watching his videos reassures me that this is what I love to do. ❤️
Nonmi Hiseddeo: Thanks for this excellent tutorial, Guy Tang! When I'm quarantined and can't go to the salon, I can order product online and spend a whole day (literally) coloring my hair. For lightener, doing my own hair, I'm still obsessed with your Pravana collaboration clay lightener. It gives me great control, and the board that came with it is a fantastic tool, helping me place the lightener exactly where I need it to be. I sit on a tarp on the floor, mirror in front, mirror behind, whichever product, humidifier running, and I go town. What would I do without you? It's too horrifying to think about!
John Vogt: Wowza. I think this is my favorite look you’ve done so far. Her hair looks absolutely stunning. One day I hope to be able to color hair like you. ~crosses fingers~
Astrozy__: This was super helpful ! I've been trying to get my hair done for years but when it's bleached it pulls so much gold and no salons can do it properly
Dea Blair: Thank you Guy for everything that you put out. It keeps me inspired and you have really helped me improve my corrective color applications. You seem like so much fun to hang out with! Your genuine spirit comes across everything that you do. I live in Florida but have friends in Cali, and travel out to visit on occasion and would love to meet you in person. I have been a stylist for 20 years. Your full attention to your clients inspired me to finally turn an office suite into a 1 chair salon. I am now 2 years open and am so glad I took the leap. My niche is organic hair color and corrective color. I service those with color sensitivity. Thank you Guy! And don’t stop baby! Keep it up!!
Colene McClard: Absolutely GORGEOUS! Love those blending of colors! So good with her skin tone too I appreciate all the knowledge and expertise - always learning so much! Thanks Guy Tang! ❤
Bailey Gagliano: It would be great if he posted his timing on all of these processes, what time the client came in and what time the client left. And price range estimates. Useful knowledge for hairdressers. We have a bad habit of under selling ourselves.
Neha Phookan: The amount of artistry this man has is AMAZING!!
Natascha Valkenhoff: You make it look fun. Would love to learn this. Worked as a hairdresser for 6 years but only cut hair. Sometimes foils and root coloring. I want to be a color expert like you!
Sparrow Cheeeeps!: This was an amazing look! ❤ that is a helluva LOT of hair to be working with, but wow! What a fantastic result! I like how you explain the science behind hair colour too, it is complex, and definitely best left to the professionals! My current pet hate is well known television celebs, advertising box hair colour by claiming their own luscious locks are the result of a £5 box of that particular brand of hair colour! *yeah... COURSE it is! smh!*
Javier: Great video! I'm currently going to styling school. I'll definitely be watching your videos! Thanks for taking the time to teach.
Autumn Byrd: I am so jealous I can't get my hair done by someone half as good as you are. I literally have been binge watching your videos. You are a hair God.
Nicole Liu: I always enjoy watching your transformations. Most of what you say goes over my head since I've only had one bleach/ balayage experience but
mouse v: I can watch your tutorials all day. Amazing job every time!
Juice Box: I wish more clients would understand the time, knowledge, and work that goes Into stuff like this. I work in a chain salon and we get random people showing up with pictures of stuff like this who have obviously chemically altered hair asking for a price. We tell them whether or not they’d be able to make it to that end goal and that it may take multiple sessions and they can’t come in at 5pm to start that. They get so upset about price and that they can’t have it instantly. I’d love for them to see your videos or other stylists posts and see that it may like more than 4 hours+. Your work is gorgeous and you put so much time and care into it. Thank you for posting!
Kristi Beauty: You're a genius. I _love_ how this was done in a 'tutorial style'. Thanks, Guy! Mad love from Downunder!
Michelle Duarte: No matter what you do..... it’s always amazing!!!! You’re a TRUE ARTIST!! and your canvas is HAIR!!! I love it! You’re awesome.. you really are! I have always loved watching your videos, I always will!
J-MeGirl: You're so amazing at what you do. It's seriously art to me. You create masterpieces. I wish like crazy that you could do something fun and different with my hair. I feel you know and understand hair like no one else. You'd also be fun to talk to. ❤
Jenny G.: That looks amazing!!! Thanks for sharing your information and time to help explain what you do and why you do it.
Miguel Salas: I reealllyyyy want to see the haircut and styling process! Not only for this video but for all of them. I really love the outcome but I wish you would share some of your other techniques as well
Kristína Kecsöová: Whaaaaat ... I actually really liked the color before the final "silver" coloring, but even the final result is amazing! I wonder how long that took and how many times you had to wash and dry her hair
Excellent Hair Salon: So freakin amazing. I love everything about this. That Shadow Ash is everything!!!! Absolutely obsessed. The Eclipse, Misty Mauve, and the Silver Smoke, they are all my favorite. LOVE ❤️ LOVE ❤️ LOVE ❤️ I can’t wait for MyHero Collagen Repair
Katie Swanepoel: Guy Tang, being a hair magician as always. Doesn't matter how many videos I watch, Guy never ceases to amaze!
Thor Alder: Being a hair colourist for over 25 years, I know how hard this is to achieve, Guy Tang is AMAZING I was wondering start to finish how long it took you? And in the salon what would you have normally charged for this?
Sergio Diaz: Your videos are fireworks in my heart! Definitely inspiration for many many professionals.
turkishdelight2013: I love how you’re not afraid to use like 50 different colours, products etc and you get the best results....... hairdressers need to learn from you and not expect magical results with only 2 products
Michelle Celeste: I totally LOVE this! <3 I can follow along, it's just near impossible to do on myself. I think I need your help Guy Tang.
Julie Sanchez: Great job done on her hair, the length is so long and full with volume. Love it the color is beautiful
ivana lovrenschi: You are very knowledgeable and your explanations are very interesting and on point! You are a great teacher! Thank you for sharing your experience and your magic with us! You are amazing
Halannah Hartman: I know he went through a million steps, but honestly, I love how effortless and natural her hair looks!! Takes a true artist/(genius) to accomplish that!!
Fallon Zoey: Guy, I REALLY want you to write a book! I love your technique so much and I wish you'd do a class close to South Carolina so I could come see you live. I liked the finished result before you put the ss series over it, but the transitions are beautiful!! Cant wait for my hero collagen spray to be available for purchase...when is that finally gonna be? I've been waiting ALL year! Anyways keep doing your thing & being you. Your awesome
Krissy Dale: I'd give anything to have you do my hair! Wonderful job as always!
Paula Tristan: Once again Guy Tang is bad ass at what he does !!! Damn it he can totally change and transform hair to a whole new level. Guy you're AMAZING !! I've been watching your videos for a very long time now and you amaze me every time❗
Caroline Nigg Aya Lee-Janet: So from my understanding, when the colorant says “cool blonde” or “ash blonde”, they have purple/blue pigments instead of having actual blond colored pigments. (the name of the dye isn’t the name of the pigment but the result) So on gray hair, will those dyes appear as purple/blue instead of blonde?
cassvii: Beautiful hair color. I wish I could find a stylist with even half the talent you have. ❤️
Chitown Sha Sha: I wish I could do this. I'm not a hairstylist though but I love your work.
Vania Otaviano: Incrível as cores que você faz nos cabelos amo seus vídeos bjs.
Daniel D.: Also, could you do a tutorial con how you style hair? I love the way it looks!
Jo-Anne Clarke: Wow! What an amazing head of hair that is so beautifully coloured. Now I have to try doing this myself, on myself. Perhaps you can make some lovely videos of how a hair bestie across the world can do her own hair. The local hair guys and gals always want to chop my hair off, and their colouring techniques are just not like yours. I am growing my hair at 60 years.
Miss A: wow....that looks stunning. Lots of color and lots of work. I can see why it’s an expensive process but it sure looks beautiful on her!
Akali silverfang: I really love Guy's vids and look at me, I am now ash blonde and I just did this all at home. It was terrifyingly a great experience to lift hair from black to blonde to ash. Pls do not try this at home HAHAHAHA its not for the faint hearted
keekatee: That last step really pushed it next level! Love this.
THE SNOOZE BUTTON: You never cease to amaze me with your talent!!
La Chula: Guy Tang I don't like posting comments. But I couldn't control myself. You are a genius. I love your work, your knowledge & how dedicated you are to every single of your clients. I am addicted to your videos.
Michelle Moran: Would love to have my hair done by you , absolutely amazing
Rania Segakis: I believe this is the colour for grey hair I have greys around my face only, I think this is the way to go for longevity I am sick of going to my hairdresser every four weeks looks great on young girlls, the middle aged like me and for mature women, Guy can you do a video on blending greys for all us exhausted gals out there, I love you work you are a hair magician❤️
MissGrace4: One thing that is so underrated about Guy, is that he thinks so hard about the longevity of the colour. Even though his client had her hair done ages ago, it’s faded to a nice colour and the way it’s grown in looks like it’s been deliberately ombréed. So it was still so nice and wearable when she came for this colour treatment.
Carmen Montanez: This man is a true artist, he really knows whats hes talking aboutwe need more stylists like him
AkaSyd: You need to do a world tour to dye hairs on people please! Forget concerts , we need guy tang!
lori whitmer: I'm not a fan when you do all that crazy color stuff (blue, purple etc) but this, now this was spectacular
Alanca Abyssal: You are amazing Sir, impeccable results as always
Holly Bryant: You are just a hair wizard, Guy. The Wizard of Hair. Your knowledge is so impressive! Hair colorists around the country need to train under you so we can all experience your talent!
Hez eLGee: The end result is so ethereal! Superb job!
Andromeda V.: SO beautiful! You’re a true color master, Guy! ✨✨
Parents are strict Duh: The video I was waiting for !! Looking forward to get shadows in Europe when they’ll be available
Jessica -aka JessaNae: *I've always wanted to learn more in depth with coloring!! I know a good bit, but Im a perfectionist and anything I do, if Im not sure at the finished product, then I'm not confident!! Thing with color though... it's fixable unless it's fried lol! I understand that with all hair colors, all three primary colors exist, and like me...i have a level 6/7 light ash brown/ blonde but when it's lightened, I still get that pale yellow tone! I always have to use a toner when i lighten!! Even if I get a pale blonde hair color with a blue/ purple base, it'll still have brass although my hair is ashy!! So i have you tone, or i also have added extra cool toned color drops to my color to help get a more natural, or cool toned result! I'd love to take one of his color classes!!!*
Kim Haney: I wish my hair colorist/stylist could do even a little of what you can..You're a Genius of the Hair Color World..love you ❤
SANDRA N US: I love the work you do, is so amazing!
Jen Niebla-Love: Do doing all these layers of color add any longevity? The end result is stunning!
Sandra Mullikin: Oh wow, that turned out beautiful! You had me worried for a minute how all these completely different colors were going to come out. LoL but wow, you the man! Great job, you definitely know what you’re doing! Tyfs!
kimmy0868: Your knowledge of hair science is just . I almost had a cow when you started the final tone, I’m screaming NOOOOOOOO LOL. Then BAM, Dude you nailed it!!!!!! You are the Goal, Thank You ❤️❤️
AmyJacqueline G.: I like that you worked with her own Haircolor level , but brought out the highs and lows in a very subtle modern way.
Sarah Oua: And I suddenly understand why all my attempts to change my hair colour were epic fails!! Most of the"pros" I've been to don't know **** about colour. Sir, you are amazing
zedd man: From one hairdresser to another, i understand everything you're saying, you sir are my hero !! You use soooo many tubes , i get why thou.
Joan Gentile: Wow!! That's absolutely beautiful!! You do an excellent job with coloring hair!! ;)
Silvia Medina: Hermoso trabajo. Gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.
RainEdayWoman H.: Such a neat idea for your bowl design, Guy, to keep track of the multiple formulas.
Debi B: I always LOVE your videos Guy! Your an amazing person... Much love to you.
Lone Traveller: Amazing result. Wow. I coloured my virgin hair for the first time as a guy, I just wanted to cover some greys. I'm a light brown so I tried a Level 6AA Loreal Dia Richesse from Sallys with 20 volume, my hair is now dark dark brown with an Orange tinge Looks a hell of a mess. Maybe I should have tried a 7 Ash. Love your hair transformation videos.
Banke Ogunnaike: You're a hair artist and a hair god wrapped into one ... AMAZING!!!
anna andrade: i’ve been in cosmetology school for 3 years now. i’ve learned more from Guy’s channel in the past month then at school.
xGunMoll: Ugh one day I'd like to get my hair done by you!! #HairDreams
Jacki Rodger: Guy Tang! You never cease to AMAZE me with your VAST KNOWLEDGE OF COLOUR AND TECHNIQUE . RESPECT
A. S.: it was beautiful before the smoky overlay and after. the colors are gorgeous! i was expecting disaster when i saw how blond her highlights got but wow. i wish that muave-y brown was more commonly available! how can i find i stylist who uses these colors??
Yoki Lee: Looks amazing, must cost a fortune to get done!
Mimi Hndz: I just think you are the best colorist ever, i ruin my hair trying to get this look i paid a lot of money and my hair just ends ruined i had to dyied brown again at home.. i hope some day i meet a colorist like u!
Tina Hill: so how does one get an appointment with you or someone you trained ? and how many hundreds should i be saving up to pay for it ? Love your videos and your energy and personality . Thank you for teaching us so much
Lala Love: Currently in cosmetology school. I’m here to learn from the best! Will be purchasing your products.
fairytalefee: genius. you make me wanna ditch my marketing job and be a hair artist
Cheryl Altschuler: Absolutely beautiful dimension of color and looks shiny and soft.
Sarah Taylor: You are an absolute genius. Seriously, what an artist. Skills. ❤️❤️
thatswhatshesaid: I would die if I could afford to have my hair done by guy tang!! He seems so nice, considerate and happy!
Star Tavares: Wow I think you are the best when it comes to hair coloring I enjoy your videos and have learned alot from watching them I've also ordered your products and they are on point if I ever had to choose some one to color my hair it would be you thanks for the info btw can you list all the products that were used in this video thank you
HairOrDye: Your a genius! I love everything you do!
Sařa Hevesi: I attend Paul Mitchell school and I am grateful for your educational videos! Please do more education xoxo
Maritza H&M: Beautiful I love your color line !!! You are an awesome artist
TinaSparkles: As a fellow hairdresser, this guy (pardon the pun) really is a genius.
Hanna Pajanen: You really are a true artist, phenomenal
miss china: Guy tang u work so hard man. U deserve all the success you get...