Smokey Platinum Blonde | Lived-In Hair Color Tutorial | Redken Shades Eq | Daniella Benita

Hey everyone welcome back to another color tutorial today, i am working on my beautiful sister brenna and what we're going to be doing is creating a more lived-in look for her. So let me explain what i'm going to be doing today: um we're going to be adding a deeper root, melt and ashy brown, and then i'm going to continue that with low lights all throughout the mids, so that we break up all this blonde and give her A more lived in blonde look, then i'm going to rinse her out, go back and put in some highlights just to give her brightness and blend, and then i'm really going to focus on the front and give her that beautiful money piece so that she has all That brightness in the front and she's going to feel like an amazing blonde goddess: um: okay, guys! If you want to learn this technique, keep watching okay, so we're going to begin with the root melt and what you're going to do is paint all the way down. So it's a little bit more of like a stretched root melt because i really want to show all this depth under the foil when we refoil her and take your time with shades eq. It'S very liquidy, so don't feel like you have to rush, because if one of these little colored dots goes somewhere on her hair you're really going to see it so take your time. So i'm going to take this root melt and i'm going to be applying it all over brenna's root and covering all that extra warmth that she has, and what this is going to do is add this. Basically, the shadow effect under the highlights so that she has so much dimension and it blends all the rest of the lowlights we're gon na put in so it just looks like a more natural color throughout, so don't be afraid to pull down that root and really Stretch it it's gon na look so gorgeous under the highlights we do later and really give someone that nice soft grow out that everyone is really looking for now. So i'm moving on to the back. I would suggest, if you have someone like brenna, who is pretty much platinum on the ends, to really drag it down even a little more than the roots at the top, just because, naturally, our hair, when we grow it out, it has that depth underneath. So if you really have someone who wants to have that lived-in look, you can take this root color or even like a lighter two levels lighter and almost do like a gradient effect where you do the darker root and then that medium color and stretch it with Your hands - and i think that would be absolutely beautiful, just something for you guys to think about for your next color. So i'm just going to keep continuing applying this root all around the head, and you can see that i'm doing vertical sectioning with the back of my brush. I feel like this is the easiest way for me to apply roots, because i can grab that section and pull it away from their face and get it really tight and it keeps my sections really really clean. So try this next time. You apply your root, melt or color melt. It really has been my favorite way to efficiently get this service done. Okay, so now we're going to begin the low lights i mixed 6t and 6n with equal parts, processing solution, redkins shades eq and what this low light is going to do is give her this smoky depth in between, and i like slicing my low lights for more Of a dramatic technique, you don't have to do this if you have someone who wants it to be a little more natural and blended, but i really like slicing especially on blondes, because i feel like when i weave it really doesn't make enough of an impact. As you can see too, my ends are kicked out. So whenever i low light, i don't low light. The ends um, i feel like it, gives this more seamless um look instead of having you know the old, like stripey low, light um technique where it was like you covered the entire ends. I don't really like doing that anymore. So if you want to try this technique, i've really loved it and i'm just going to keep moving up the head doing this slicing technique and it's about an inch. Each section is about an inch apart and i wanted to go over my rule of thumb. For my low lights and how i formulate them so brenna is about a 9 10. um, so i'll do for like drama three levels: deeper, so she's, a nine, so i'll do a six level um for more natural. I do two levels deeper. So if i wanted more a natural look, she would be around a seven for her low lights, um and depending on what your client wants. If they want ashy, if they want neutral, if they want gold, if they want um red, that's how you would formulate the color, but the level, that's how i pick it and then i also want to talk about the root color. So you never want to formulate a low light that doesn't have enough depth to make sense for the root. So if the root is lighter than your low light, it's going to look really really unnatural. So make sure when you are formulating your root is slightly darker and then work your low light off that root color as well. Okay, now we're moving on to the back we're going to repeat the same pattern, but i did want to point out this back area. How you can see it's a little more golden a little more warm, and what i also wanted to point out is that low lights can also be used as like a color corrective. So what i'm doing is taking this? You know ashy color, putting it on top of her most warm areas instead of going back and lifting it, and you know highly processing her hair, we're doing a low light to help counteract and balance that warmth um. So you can also think of low lights. This way and tell your clients like this is also a way of color, correcting your hair without putting any more um like compromise like lighteners or high lifts, or anything to get them to a better place if they have warmth in their hair. So here after i rinsed her out is the final result and you're gon na see what it looks like dry. You have a stretched root. Now that is ashy. It'S like kind of this charcoal um charcoal light brown, which i love, and you can't see the lowlights. Yet but i promise once we blow her out and style her, you will be able to see all the internal low lights, so we're going to move on to the highlights, and this formula is 45 grams of blonde me lightener, with 1 4 ounce of olaplex and 25 volume blondie and, of course, if you need more lightener mix more of a batch for someone who has thicker hair. But this is what i like to begin with um. So we're going to start, of course, with her face frame and what i'm gon na do is take slices right at her face, so we're not leaving anything natural in the front. You'Re gon na. Take that immediate hair and slice that so she gets that bam in your face: blonde um right there, so i'm gon na slice here fold it up and then my next section, i'm gon na leave a little bit of hair in between and then slice again and I'Ve also been loving um using this smaller fermar brush to apply my lightener. I'Ve always used larger brushes just out of habit, but recently i've really liked smaller brushes to apply my lightener for my foils. I just have way more control, so if you guys feel like you're having a little trouble like overloading your brush and when you're applying foils grab a smaller brush and see how you feel and the fermara ones are great, i really love how like straight and tight. The bristles are so give them a shot if you guys want to um, try out their stuff and i'm going to be moving on to the side here, as you can see, i'm doing these wide foils and gathering all that, like area and just slicing it again. Keeping a little bit of hair in between and we're doing, three back-to-back slices with a little bit of hair in between and then we're gon na move on to the one spot that most people forget, which is the temple. So i always want to point this out to people who foil this little area. When you don't foil it, it's crazy. How much you can see it, especially when people pull their hair back. It'S like this little dark hole. So don't forget that and i'm going to do one more slice right here, just to connect that line and make sure she has that full full beautiful face frame. Now we're going to be moving on to the other side and i'm doing the exact same technique. So slicing right on that face, face frame and then i'm going to leave a little hair in between slice again and then do one more and then i'm gon na move on to the side slicing one more time right to that face. Then i'm gon na leave a teeny bit of hair in between i'm slicing again and then finishing this little section, with one more slice with a little bit of hair in between and then don't forget the temple and i'm finishing with this last little piece right on The end to complete that line so after you finish the face frame, we're gon na section right from the temple and then begin our partial baby light so make sure when you do this, your weaves are very fine and thin. Why we're doing that is because the finer and thinner your weaves are the more dimension you'll see so brenna really wanted to have like way more depth. She wanted to see that darker root. She wanted to see those low light. She wanted to see the root shadow underneath um. So that's why we're making these so thin and i'm going to put about four or five foils in this section for her partial highlight and what that's going to do is give her this beautiful blend with the highlights. But it's not going to create this overall blonde. At the top again, because that's not what we wanted, we wanted her to have a more lived-in look. So i'm just going to be working up about an inch section. Each doing these paper fine baby lights, and you would be amazed at how bright her hair is going to look, even though we're only putting in four or five baby lights. So just keep that in mind when you're foiling like. Why am i foiling how much lightness do i really want to see? Do i want this to be blended? Do i want to see the shadow root i just created and then the thicker, the weave, the more brightness you'll, see the thinner, the less brightness you'll see in the more depth. So just keep that in mind when you guys are foiling and again, as i always say, make sure you find your clients exact part and brenna's is a little bit off-center. So i'm really making sure that that's exactly where her hair parts and putting that foil there. So when she does style her hair she's going to have that brightness and that foil right there and now we're going to do the same thing on the other side. So we're going to begin at the temple for our partial, highlight and you're going to do these fine baby weaves and then go right up all the way to the scalp and then once you're finished we're going to move on to the back and we're going to Repeat the same pattern, right above where the occipital bone is and i'm going to begin. My first weave right in the center and then i'm going to take diagonal sections on the left and the right just to fill in where the height of that occipital bone is and just to fill, that in and make sure she's totally covered with foil and highlights There and then i'm going to go back to my horizontal section and just keep doing horizontal weaves all the way up and then for the top last two sections make sure you take really fine slices and really make sure you get those baby weaves in there. So it reaches all the way to the root. So you'll see this last section. I weave that tiny little piece just to make sure that root gets all the way covered and really is nice and tight to her scalp. So as soon as you finish, the back move on to the front and check out your face frame, these are the most fragile part of your client's hair. So you want to make sure you open up each one of the foil packets and check how well they are processing and the ones that are ready to go. Just. Take a dry towel and pull out that lightener just to keep their hair nice and healthy and safe. So now we're going to move on to our balayage and what i'm mixing is one to one and a half mixing ratio of schwarzkopf clay lightener with 1 4 ounce, olaplex and 30 volume for 10 minutes after the application. So i'll show you how i'm going to apply this and then after i'm done, i let it sit for 10 more minutes to process, so we're going to be in begin in the front and what i'm doing is surface painting. So i don't really want to completely saturate the hair, especially in the mids. I want to make sure she has a lot of brightness on the top, but still keeps that dimension underneath so take your bowl and your brush and don't heavily saturate it. You only need a little bit and make sure you feather up to the mids, and what that's going to do is help connect your highlights that are going to be bright blonde to the ends. But what i'm doing is it's piecing out the low light? So do your best to find the low light and piece that out just so, you don't lift it. It'S not the end of the world if you lift it, but if you can see that low light piece it out, take the time and then add that brightness, where the low light um is in between and what brenda's going to have at the end of this Is just brighter tipped ends from this balayage and the bright highlights in the top are going to really be connected and look absolutely stunning, since she does have this kind of charcoaly gray, silver color. She really wanted to be brighter today. So i'm just going to keep moving around her hair and taking section by section about an inch holding the ends and then painting up. But you can see here, it's only really touching the surface and then i'm connecting it to the ends and making sure the ends are saturated. I also feel like balayage is such a um visual service? It'S kind of depends on the client's hair. Can their hair handle? Having you know balayage tipped out on it, is it what the client wants? Do they like seeing brightness on the ends? Do they want it more natural, so it really depends on what your client is looking for. For this actual look, this is what i did to create the final result, but don't feel like you have to do this with your clients. You could saturate each and every piece and have all that lightness on the ends. If you want dimension, you can do every other piece or you can even do a little bit less than what i end up doing, and that would give you more dimension. So it really is dependent on the client situation, your consultation and also just you as an artist like what do you want to see and just remember like step back and visualize when you are painting like okay? Where do i want to see the brightness? How do i want it to lay? Where do i want to see depth and that's how you can paint? So that's what i always say with balayage. It'S a very, i feel, like it's a very personal technique and service, so i did want to point this out when i am doing clients with bangs. You want to stop and take the time to balayage that piece on the end, so it's nice and bright. So brenna has this like pretty dramatic side bang. So you can see. I took the balayage and made sure i painted those ends and you can tell like she's gon na have that brightness right in the front, and then this is kind of my pattern in the back. It'S almost like a bricklay, so it's like every other piece is balayaged and then i made sure to follow pretty much where, like the sun would hit it and that's how i wanted it to look. It'S like really natural and um just refreshed basically, and i'm gon na finish the other side with that front. Bang area and i'm gon na paint that so she has evenness on both sides. Okay, next step we're going to mix the root melt and the toner, and what i'm going to mix for the root melt is one of my favorite favorite root melts um equal parts, 7t 7nb. It is like the most gorgeous smoky ashy fruit color. I use it constantly for my blondes and then for the ends, we're going to use 10v and 90 and i always clarify my blondes after i do their lightening sessions. What it does is really remove all of that um lightner out of their hair, and it also helps um equalize, the alkaline alkalinity, it's a really hard word to say, um and porosity of their hair to help absorb the toners. So i've been doing that for years. I learned that trick in la and it's been amazing for um, my color, so you can see here the highlights. Look, amazing. The ends look gorgeous and now we're going to add that lift and root that everyone is obsessed with right now. So it's a level seven. So she's still gon na have those beautiful pops of highlights, but it's just gon na be way more melted and blended. It'S gon na be gorgeous um, and i also wanted to show you guys my face framing technique, um pretty much. What you're doing is painting the top of the highlights, and that means that the underneath is going to be left bright, so you're not really um blending like i'm not going to take a brush and brush this through. I just want it to sit mostly on the surface and then, when you blow dry, you're going to have that perfect, blended but bright pop, because the top has been shadowed, but the bottom was left bright. It'S stunning i've been doing this for the past couple months. It'S been amazing to um for my money pieces and my front face frame pieces so just going to go through and then paint forward on my client's face, and i know it's touching their skin um, it's going to be fine. We will clean it off as soon as this is done. It is totally totally worth it. So i'm just taking the back of my brush, sectioning it and then painting forward so yeah give this a shot. When you guys do your next face frame, you'll, absolutely love! The result and then i'm just going to take sections going backwards and just keep painting forward about two inches and make sure you drag it down so that your client gets that really pretty overall smoky long root. Okay, so now we're going to repeat the same technique on the other side again just taking those um diagonal, slices and painting forward on the top, and then i'm just going to keep moving my way back about two inches down the hairline and down the root. Just to give her that really melty smokey effect, and now i wanted to show you guys one of my favorite tricks in the back tilt your client's head down to help you paint down to the neck. It just goes with their head shape and also their neck shape, and it just helps you get that perfect painted root when their head is tilted down. I learned this at a class and it's been so much easier for me to apply the root melt in the back, so give this a shot. When you do your next root mill and again, depending on how much depth you want your client to have in the back, you can paint further down than what i'm doing. So if you wanted to have her, have more of that lived in grown in color this level, seven would look gorgeous a little bit further down the back to create that like gradient effect back there. So if you have someone who wants to have even more um just talk to them in your consultation with your blonde zupernets or anyone who wants to be a little more natural and say that's the technique you can do you can add that dragged root in the Back to give them more of that natural feel. Okay, so here i'm just gon na pull her hair back gently from the face frame, and you can see that bright little piece in the front. That'S exactly how i want that to process and we're just going to clean off her forehead and then let her process for the next 15 minutes and now we're going to grab the toner. So i always section out the face frame and apply that last. So i'm going to put the toner all over the ends and she does hold a ton of gold. So i'm really making sure that i let it process for the full amount. So she gets all that color correcting capability from redken shades eq. So i'm going to add this to the ends first and then move on to the front to keep it a little bit brighter and then let that process. So you can see the color here how it developed to this like smoky beautiful blonde um, it's super ashy. I'M like absolutely obsessed, i love the 10v. If you haven't used it yet from redken shades. Eq be very aware, it is very strong, but if you need that violet cancellation, it is incredible. So i'm going to use my minou hair serum to blow out her hair. That'S from daveness it's one of my favorite um products to style my clients with it's super lightweight and it also enhances their color and makes it super super shiny. So give that a shot. It'S super lightweight too, and smells amazing, so we're gon na blow her out and then show you guys. The final result, so here you can see all the gorgeous baby lights and that smoky root is still very um prominent. So we didn't put too many highlights. You can see how blended and like gorgeous that is, and you can see here how bright the ends are with the highlights. We did so it's all even and cohesive, and how everything has a little bit of depth in between still so. We didn't just make her platinum blonde. We kept all of that dimension um and you can really see the low lights in there now shining through um and the beautiful bright face frame, and i am telling you guys you have to try the 7nb root tone um for your blondes. It is like it's. My favorite i've created yet so um give that a shot. If you have someone who wants this like ashy blended root, and i'm just going to show you guys the back here, how incredibly gorgeous this is, and you can see the more i move my hands. The low lights are, underneath you can see that dark stretched root melt under there to give her all of that natural tone. It feels like this is her natural hair color. Even though we spent you know four and a half hours doing it, but if you can um just imagine your clients who are really blonde and want to go to a more blended natural transition. This is such a great tutorial and technique for them and they'll absolutely love it. That toner also is so good for blondes who hold so much warmth, and i also recommend schwarzkopf's blonde me lightener and their clay lightner balayage. It is by far the best lighteners. I have ever worked with so definitely give them a shot if you haven't tried them yet uh. How gorgeous is this guys, i'm gon na throw in a quick wave just to show you guys how incredibly beautiful this is styled um and, as you can see, when i'm curling the wand, all the depth and dimension be built into this blonde color. It'S just absolutely. Absolutely incredible: i'm going to take a little bit of pomade. This is a shine wax by daveness. I learned this in la using a wax to rake out your waves and your curls. I'Ve really been loving this to add a little bit more texture and hold it. Also is great for getting those little baby fly away, hairs so try this next time. You do any type of beach wave or curls and i always like to begin in the back by applying. So i'm taking the wax starting at the bottom of her neck and then rubbing it in through the front. Because i have a lot less product. And i don't overdo the product in the front of her face and i'm just going to take my fingers and gently pull out these waves and really give them a lot of like judging and make sure they're all broken up and look super super soft and gorgeous. Thank you guys so much for watching. I really hope that this technique was um easy to follow, and you guys learned a lot. If you have any um comments, please leave them below. I will answer them as soon as i can and i will be listing all the products and tools used in this video below alright guys. I will see you on the next video bye. You