How To Get The Best Hair Extensions With Neil Moodie'S "Alphabet Of Hair" Letter E. G

Hello, one and all and welcome to this episode of the alphabet of hair. The lecture I'm going to be looking at today is the letter E, which stands for extensions. It also stands for the name of the person who is going to be my special guest today. Who'S name is Earl. Earl Sims is one of the leading hairdressers in the world right now he works with the likes of Sienna Miller, Nicole Kidman Lily James and that's just the very start of the list of celebrities whose hair that he does for magazines and for the red carpet. So, oh and I both use extensions when we're working and what we wanted to do is crack open the myth of extensions a little bit and hopefully give you an insight into what we think works. What we think is good and also give you some of the pitfalls so that you can decide which extensions you prefer to have so we're here with the lovely Elle Sims again who features in some of my other videos, and, as I mentioned, we are today looking At the letter e, which is extensions and again the reason why I thought I say that in the intro, by the way, so the letter E is expensive and oh yeah we're gon na be looking at hair extensions and again. The reason why I bought earlier on this is because, like me, he has to use them for his work sometimes, and so what I want to do is talk about. Why do we use them and are they as popular now as they have been in the past, because I remember at one point every shoe I went on. I was putting extensions in. I don't further happen so much anymore, but then also - and what I want to talk about, then, is what do we prefer as hairdressers to use in terms of what type of extensions, because there's quite a few different ones, isn't there? So, let's just quickly give you a rundown of the ones that are available that we know of so first off. You'Ve got the ones that you can sew in and they are like a weft and it comes like a lot left with lots of hair on and you either cornrow the hair and sew them in or you can glue those in yeah right and or you can Actually use a special tape which allows you to take them in also and they're, what's known as a more sort of like semi-permanent type extension yeah. So what are the other ones? L that you learn clip ins mm-hmm, which you know you can buy them with the clips on yeah or you can buy your clip separately and make your own clip on. So you can make them how you want them as long as you want them as thick as you want them: yeah, okay and then there's also the ones that are considered more of a permanent method which are either the micro bonds or the micro rings, and the Micro rings aren't have a little metal clasp on and the micro bonds you bond with a certain type of bonding glue. Now these are very different. They are attached to the hair, much more individually as like little strands of hair and people tend to use those more as a more permanent method that will grow out for a while until they need redoing so we'll be covering those later and the other ones that I know of is ones that are called the halo extensions and they use those allowing films where the hair is attached to a super super fine piece of circular wire and you pull it over your head. And then you pull your hair right over the top. There'S a few different versions of those. Yes, so quick yeah, you know they're just it's literally a wire the hairs on it and you just put it on. There'S no clipping no gluing and it doesn't irritate the hair. But I mean I, you know you can't be sort of in a girl force, wind or anyone pulling anything yeah. Now, let's take a closer look at the temporary methods. First and Early's going to talk about the clip in hair extensions, because they're ones that you like to use more often on you, your nails for speed, yeah, so yeah tell me a little bit more about them. Cuz. I don't use those as much where you can get them is clicking yeah. I mean I like a clip-on, because I feel like with the clips Adam. If you can see viewers these tiny little clips, they come in three sizes. These are the baby ones and they snap in and out that's out, clip it on the hair and then you clip it in, and so how do you actually attach them to the hair? Oh, what you do well, what I do is I literally sort of section off the hair that I made and I backcomb the root very lightly, not like a fine piece: yeah yeah, fine, fine piece of hair back home. It'S lightly spray, a bit of hairspray. Some people like to clamp this back home to peace. I don't with heat it's a tiny bit of hairspray and it just gives it a little gold a little bit of an anchor, and then you clip the clip unto the hair that you've back combed and it just holds it in then you just close it and Seal it and you do those all around the width of this. You have to take it that that's the section of hair has to be that which doesn't it around the head yeah, I mean basically demonstration that would be at the back of the head. Yes, yeah through there and as you get to the top, they get smaller, don't know. Yeah the head sort of angles inwards a little bit so they're not as wide as they yeah you get smaller one. So you just sort of put them where you feel you need them. Sometimes you don't need all of them in the head. Sometimes it's just about putting three at the back, and sometimes you really need to figure out how the hair is gon na be. You might have to put a whole head in mmm, but obviously the higher you go up, it's better to use smaller clips and you can actually get it flatter and if you need to pull it yeah, I was just about to say how do you deal with The fact that when somebody's maybe got a part so like either parting in the middle or on the side, you know if you feel like that, needs filling a little bit. How do you deal with the clips there? Well, what I guess it was my concern that it's a little lump exactly I sort of try and find the smaller clips or the medium clips. And when you're coming up to where the parting is a try and section to fake hair round under the parting or that way right, so it's kind of not too close to the parting mm-hmm and then you know sometimes then you've just got a cut. This right off and then right up to the party yeah, and so when would you use these? What type of hair, what kind of effect would use a book just to let you know this is 100 % human hair yeah, it's real and we as hairdressers on on shoots and working with actresses and stuff. We use human hair because I always think it behaves more like real hair than yeah, because you can get synthetic hair and there is no synthetic hair available that you can put heat on, but I still find it doesn't react as well as actual human hair yeah. For me, I'm all about the real hair, because we haven't got time to be gauging the temperature. Sometimes you've got it in quick. You know, but I'd like to use these on jobs where it's not permanent, mmm, let's say someone's going out for an evening: hmm, they need longer thicker hair, but these in your fashion, shoot five o'clock you out the door yeah. So it's very temporary this. It'S very temporary if you're someone who knows how to keep these in for the next day they can stay in for two or three days you have to meet the person, who's really careful with them yeah and they can actually staying for a couple of days to Sleep sitting up yeah yeah, you know, but it's about a quick fix with these yeah. These are not permanent. Just for more look editorial or just an evening, or I know a couple of hours, you want to put them in yeah, cause you're going to have a meeting and your hair looking fabulous and you take them out they're, also not difficult to put in on. No, I know a lot of you that can put them in let's look at the next one now, which is the tape in extensions these which are these now. The thing is with these, these aren't very wide, but you can get them much wider right and these can last between four to six weeks again, if you treat them correctly again, it's human hair, and so once it's in it behaves like real hair. Now the way this works is is that you, so if you can see, you've got the little white stickers on here now when you peel that back. That is like a sticky tape like a clear sticky tape and basically what you do. You take a very, very fine section of hair and then you take the tape off and you place that underneath the fine section and then let that section stick to the tape. Then you take the other one and you take off the white backing again and then you place it over the top. So it becomes a nice weight like it's sandwiching, the real hair, but I use them before so no, you have a no I have and they are. I do find them great. I think one of the things with these is so I've seen people just go. I need to get them out now and they literally rip them out of their hair right now, because your hair is taped to this, it can tend to rip and pull and actually pull your hair out. So there are removers right for these and it's really important to use the removers yeah, because what that does is it makes the stickiness of the tape sort of like become almost like a slimy effect, and then they just slide out right and really that to me Is the most important part of using these is the removal, because if you remove them correctly, then the hair doesn't get damaged. Can you reuse those? Yes, you can yeah, because you can buy also rolls of the tape that stick on here, which is almost like a double sided tape, so you can apply it on top. Obviously, you can't keep doing that over and over again, because you get a buildup right of tape. I see you like a couple of maybe two or three times yeah but yeah. They are reusable because obviously they're human hair, so it can be shampooed and cleaned, and then you can start again. So that is those okay, okay, so next with the semi-permanent ones, is the ones that I use a lot of, and Oh has those in his hand, and these are known as a West or track tracks, which is more of an American term yeah yeah again, these Are made of human hair, as I mentioned before, we prefer to use human hair because it just behaves better in terms of styling and everything like that. But there's a couple of methods to attach these. Isn'T there? Oh yeah, I mean you know you can cornrow your own hair in certain sections and so this to the cornrow. That'S what that's! The method of you know how a lot of black women have done for years, which has translated over into European hair. Hmm! Well, you just cornrow certain sections of the hair, and then you just sew this, which means you can keep it in for like a few weeks yeah and you can wash them and stuff like that or you can glue them in and when we say glue. There'S a special type of hair glue for this kind of thing, so not just any old glue nor Pritt stick either. No that won't work. So it needs to be a special kind of hair, glue, special hair glue and a special solution to take it out with yeah. Well yeah, you don't just glue it in and then just okay right. Where now you do need to put the solution on it, rub it in, let it soak in and then slowly slide them out. Yeah take them out and then another method is with the tape a little bit like the ones that I just talked about. But what with that? The tape actually comes on a roll and you take it off the Roll and then attach it along, and you measure it to the width of the weft. So that's another way of doing it, and again quite temporary normally can last sort of like three to four days. I think, and what about the glue ones all I'd say they last three four days maximum yeah they can last longer. It depends on how you look after them. Yeah I mean if you're someone who's gon na get up in the morning and maybe just put dry shampoo through, I think getting a good week out of them yeah and if you're gon na try and sort of be yanking them and trying to shampoo bit they're. Not gon na last yeah - and I don't know about you, but I always find the white glue a little bit more gentle for hair. The black glue that's available is generally a lot stronger and is actually harder to remove. Although sometimes some of the white glues can have like a white residue which can be visible, but there are ones where the white glue will dry and be more clear yeah. I tend to use that because I'm on a shoot, it's a more sort of temporary measure, but I just find it comes out a little bit easier with the remover yeah. I completely agree personally I stay away from the black Billie because it's it just grabs too much, and I just you know you're using this temporarily, you don't want to be pulling anyone's hair out. No, so the white glues better, I feel yeah, it's my yeah okay. So um, the other version is this one which I mentioned earlier, which is called the halo. No, I don't know whether you can see that it's super fine, but it's like a very fine piece of wire that you well is attached to the weft like this and what you do is I'm going to demonstrate. Although I don't have long enough hair, I will in a minute - and you sit it onto the head like this and then I've now got money. I believe and then what you do. Is you pull with the tail comb, the natural hair over the wire? So it's it's like oh yeah yeah, but normally you would have the longer hair yeah and then you would pull it over the top and then it just sort of got a bit of a mullet right now. But obviously, if you wanted money, you can't have one, but again these come in different lengths, different colors. These aren't as popular. Not many brands actually do these right, but I know I was discussing with Earl earlier that I discovered these when I was working with the actress Anna Friel, who had been in a TV show in LA, and they used these kind of extensions to quickly change her Hair because the ear is kept changing and depending on which episode she was in and they needed to change her hair very quickly from one thing to another, so they use these and part of our own hair. To make that happen, so I feel like these are used more in film less in our world yeah. Only, although you do get the a person that has them yeah and likes them yeah. I think what's great about those, if you know how to work with them. They'Re, quick yeah, there's no gluing, there's no attachment, it's like a jacket, yeah and there's also no damage when you take it. Oh no because you just grab the hair and pull on it. Yes, pulls out of your hair. Just means. If you can't be near too much sort of chaos yeah this one used to love an extension of an extension. So that's that one now, the other ones that want to talk about which we don't have any here. Because Earl and I don't actually use them, but they are the more what they call them. A permanent type of hair extensions and they are the micro rings and the micro bonds that I mentioned earlier - that there was a magnetic version, although we found that the magnetic ones tend to not be so common anymore now, with the Rings, what they do is they Close the ring, so it sort of clasps onto the hair with the bonds. It'S like a glue that glues it onto the little special gun, with a special yarn for us for work, they're not so conducive for us, because one of the things that we found with those is they're great when they're first done for sort of you know making Somebody'S hair longer, but then when they start to grow out, because it is more of a permanent thing, not permanent as in it never comes away, but it basically starts to grow out. And so the clip the metal clip or the bond starts growing out with your hair and for us, it's more difficult to actually then blow-dry or go in with a curling iron. If we want to get in at the roots, because you suddenly hit this like barrier of metal, clamps or plaster and plastic, it's important to make sure you take them out at the right time because, as they grow out the longer they get the more they actually Pull the hair, and then you can end up with what's known as tension, alopecia yeah, where the hair is being pulled by the weight of the extension. Now that can also happen with a weft can't yeah, which I've seen where the corn row has been done. So tiny entire night, and if you it's like anything, if you keep doing the same thing in the same place and eventually those follicles yeah, they weakened they're, gon na weaken. And if you do it too much, it's too tight and it's you're not sort of giving it the attention. You should really you need to sort of mix it up. Yeah I mean it's all to do with how you look after them. The way they're put in the way, they're sort of maintained, really they're not necessary something I would push or recommend to people, because I think you do have to know how to look after them. Yeah they're very specialized - and I think we should say at this point too, with any extensions. It'S always good if you can to have a professional stylist put them in for you, as opposed to, like I say, auntie's friend, Phyllis, who lives down the road and bless her. She might be okay in it, but she might not be at it, and you know, Earl and I have seen some disasters from people on oh yeah. My friend put them in, and it's not always been great, so in an ideal world to try and get a professional to do the extensions one of the last one of the last thing I want to talk about is how much hair you should actually have put In when you're putting extensions in people get asked me this, all the time as I should have a lot have a little obviously depends on the effect that you're going for, doesn't it but there's a bit of a rule I think, like hardening rule in terms of Like if your hair is like really fine and you're, trying to thicken your hair with the extensions, it's good to not actually put too much hair in, because the weight of it can really sort of pull on the finer hair, which is tends to be more delicate Right and so that can actually damage the hair. That'S already there. What they say is the amount of hair that you have. I believe the rule of thumb is this: the amount of hair that you have. You should only double that amount and then that's enough yeah. I mean, I think my thing is to put extensions in that. Don'T look like extensions, but yeah don't over extend the hair, don't overfill it don't over, make it yeah much because you've got to carry that around yeah and some of that as well and don't you think on is about the color match too absolutely matching your color As close as you can yeah there's nothing worse than seeing somebody would blonde hair and then they've got like a sort of dark brown bit underneath because it's a bit extreme. But you know it's about matching up the color and you can get extensions in human hair where they mix the tones fades. Yes, so it looks more natural and more real, but then with obviously when somebody's hair is naturally thicker, then you can add more cuz. Thicker hair tends to be stronger, yeah, isn't it yes, so yeah basically, and that is the rule of thumb - that's what we suggest. So thanks for watching and thanks for coming in and I'll see, y'all Monsieur your expert opinion again on extension and if there's anything else, you want to ask us about extensions. Urls Instagram is coming up, so you can DM him or you can dare me or you can do in both of us. But if you like this video and want to see more, that you can subscribe to my youtube channel, which is here - and you can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter and also it's on TV