*Detailed* Flat Frontal Wig On A Sewing Machine Like A Pro | Easy Wig Making Tutorial

Hey guys and welcome back to my channel so after months of promising after this specific video, today's video is all about walking you through the process of constructing a frontal wig from start to finish on your very own, using a sewing machine. Unfortunately, today there are no pretty poses and being cute, and all of that, as this is a client's wig, so let's go ahead and just move into what you'll be needing to create a wig. So, as you can see, i'm very excited because i know you guys will love this video and i'm hoping that you'll be able to learn a lot from it. The first thing you'll be needing is a wig cap. I know what i am showing is a dome cap. I don't know why i didn't thoroughly read through it, but you will be needing a mesh. One you'll definitely see what i mean as we move along the video, but you'll be needing some thread. This is some weaving thread from the beauty supply. You'Re gon na need a curved needle. I wanted to go ahead and show this one that i also saw at the beauty supply and hopefully it's able to help you with finding the correct needle that you'll be needing, but you'll also be needing a metallic sharpie. I got this trick from taylor crown on instagram, or you can use a white or very bright lip or eye pencil from the beauty supply. It'S definitely a much cheaper option and it also gets the job done. You'Ll also be needing an elastic band. This is the one inch one from walmart you'll be needing a hefty pair of scissors, not the kitty ones. Okay, i promise we're almost done, but you'll be needing a seam ripper and lastly, your bundles, i'm using three bundles that my client has provided and a frontal which has already been pre-plugged styled, and you know just completely taken care of, oh and also before i forget You'Ll be needing a measuring tape. You'Ll also be needing a sewing machine, of course, but we'll cover the specs of that a little bit later. And lastly, everything that i just listed, i know it's a mouthful will be down below so to go ahead and just get rid of any confusion right at the beginning of this video. I wanted to go ahead and just show you guys the difference between a mesh cap and a dome cap. The mesh is almost see-through, which i highly recommend, because one it is breathable and, most importantly, it comes in pretty handy when you're working on a sewing machine. That way, you can make sure that nothing is underneath what you're going to be sewing. Okay, so the mesh cap is on and placed nicely on my canvas head and by the way i just wanted to put in there, i'm using a 22 inch canvas head. I don't know who needs to know that, but now it's time to just go ahead and place that frontal down as well before i place that frontal down it's important, to have everything as symmetrical as possible, so to have the exact middle of the frontal i'm folding. It in half and i'm making a slit right where the fold is then, with this i'm able to line up the middle of the frontal. With the middle indication line on the canvas head, i like to pull down the frontal about an inch or so where the cap ends and just tack it right in in the back as well tack down the middle of the frontal, with the middle indication line on The canvas head and from here lastly, just tack down the sides, don't pull the sides too far backwards or too far forwards, just try to maintain a straight line all the way through the back of the frontal. If that makes sense, this is what your frontal should. Look like and in the next step, you're going to just go ahead and braid that hair down to keep it out of your way for the entire rest of the tutorial, with your measuring tape, measure out your head from front to back and add about an inch Or so to whatever that measurement is onto the wig. So basically, if your head from front to back is 12 inches, then make your wig from front to back about. You know: 13 inches, so yeah make some changes if necessary to your cap, so that it's you know able to align to the measurements that you've created. But anyways moving forward, i hand sewed the frontal down, and these are the only stitches that i make by hand. I'Ve prepped my needle in my thread and created a knot at the end of the thread and to sew down that frontal down. I secure the first two stitches with knots by looping the thread around the needle three times and then pulling it right through. Then i continue by making simple stitches with absolutely no knots at all all the way through the entire perimeter of the frontal. So i do simple stitches for the frontal, because i want the seams to remain as flat as possible. We don't want any room for bumpy wigs around here, okay and i'm keeping that same simple pattern all the way through and finally, i'm closing off that stitch. The same way, i started by looping the thread around the needle three times and pulling it right through, and then i go ahead and cut my thread moving into what i think is the most important part of this video, which is creating your blueprint that the frontal Wig is going to follow you're, going to use any of the penciling options that i showed you i'm going with the sharpie option, and here i will be outlining where the wefts are going to be sewn onto, and it may seem super easy at first, but it All needs to be calculated for how many bundles you have and whether or not you will be single wefting or double wefting, some or all of your bundles. Today, i'm showing you how i created my blueprints for using three bundles in the fullness that i want. You may choose to add one or two more lines. If you want it to be a bit fuller or you know a few less lines, if you want something not as full but just make sure you have enough hair for all the lines that you're creating. Okay, obviously the more you make wigs on a sewing machine, the better you'll be at gauging how many line spaces and such that you need. But as you can see, my spacings are about an inch apart, and i do this because i like to stick with double lifting my bundles. It'S far less work than single wefting, every single bundle, and also with this far of a spacing it contributes to a very flat unit. So i ended up with a total of seven lines in the back and on the top or in the front. I have five lines: the fifth line, being the perimeter of the frontal, so you also want to make sure that the line before the perimeter of that frontal is not too close or crowding that frontal, because again we don't want to walk around with a thick bulky. Wig on our heads, i mean at least i don't, but for those who think that your cap shrinks, when you take it off of the canvas head, it doesn't okay. This is how it should all look when you're done and we can now move into the sewing portion of this video. So here is my current sewing machine. Nothing too, fancy um. I have my tension at six. My needle position is in the middle. My width is at six, and sometimes five, you know, depending on the weather outside, and my length is at three. Lastly, this is the stitching pattern that i work with for wigs. Also, i wanted to just you know, put it in this video, because in my previous video i had a lot of questions referring to the thread that i use on my sewing machine. You want to make sure that the thread you're using is machine friendly thread and i'm just using a regular one that i got from walmart. The first thing we're going to be doing is sewing our wefts together and in shorts. This is just double wefting. Your bundles already come folded in half before they roll it up, so that part is already done for you. Also, when i'm doubling my wefts, i like to start on the folded side just to keep things in order and honestly, this step is pretty easy. All you're doing is just sewing the tracks side by side and, as i'm doing so, i'm pinching them together for extra security. Okay, please also keep in mind that you are not overlapping them or placing them on top of each other. You are literally just putting one right beside the other so that when it's on your wig one is laying underneath the other. You want to take as many steps as possible again to ensure that you have a pretty flat wig okay. So this is what your track should be looking like when they are double wefted, keep how the tracks again are not overlapping. Rather one is right below the other. Moving on, i'm repeating this same exact, step to all three bundles as a beginner. What you would want to do, instead is repeat this to two out of your three bundles and by the time that you're sewing this on your cap by the third bundle you're able to analyze how many lines that you have left - and you know, make a decision On whether or not to double weft or single weft, that last bundle also just a very, very quick disclaimer, like i said in my last wig, making video, although this video is very beginner friendly, i am making this with the assumption that you already know how to Work a sewing machine, if you don't, and you want to learn how to use one. There are plenty of videos on youtube that will show you, the ins and outs. My focus here is simply how to construct a wig point blank period. That was the second bundle. I just did so. Lastly, i'm going to be doing the third again, i'm starting on the folded end, i'm positioning it properly on my sewing machine, i'm reversing a few times to secure the stitch and i begin sewing all the way through until i get to the bottom of that bundle. I am pinching together and holding those wefts down so that i have no room whatsoever for those tracks to move around and, lastly, i'm finishing out this weft by securing it again by reversing multiple times at the end of the weft. So here's the wig layout again, if you haven't removed the excess part of the cap underneath the frontal now is a good time to do so. By this you are making sure that the cap is not constricted, and you know you just have a bit more room to work with, while you're working on the sewing machine. Also, you won't be needing that part of the cap any longer again. Just to remind you, we are sewing on the lines and i'm starting at the bottom line, and the longest bundle goes at the bottom to sew the bundles on. I start by lining the weft to the little blueprint that i have created. It'S my guide to making the entire unit so i'll, be starting by securing the stitch and reversing a couple times and then begin stitching all the way through. So what you're not gon na do is pull on the cap, while you're sewing okay. That is a recipe for disaster. You'Re gon na leave the cap as is, and you're just gon na sew. The wefts right on so yeah after sewing that row all the way through you're, going to go ahead and close that left by reversing the stitch multiple times for extra security. You repeat the same exact thing to every single line, the same tip as my last video with the sewing stuff. Please take your time if you are a beginner. I know you've seen many videos of people saying that they make wigs in under 30 minutes or so, which is very much possible, but you don't want that to be your goal as a beginner with time. Of course, you can aim for that, but your main goal, when you're starting out should be constructing a unit effectively with little to no mistakes. For example, when i started making wigs on a sewing machine, i used to take about two hours, and i was completely okay with that. But now i'm down to about 30 to 40 minutes depending on the number of bundles, be patient with yourself is all i'm trying to say so, as you're sewing, you should be constantly checking to make sure that you are laying your weft right on the blueprint bit By bit also be sure that you are not sewing on top of anything else, which is a very, very ricky mistake - trust me i've done it before, but this is why i love the mesh cap, so so much because i'm able to see through the cap to Avoid sewing on anything else if you do end up having an accident which can definitely happen to the best of us, it's good to have a seam reaper handy so that you're able to correct any of your errors, so yeah. Everything from this point forward is all a matter of repetition and, like i said before, this tutorial is beginner friendly. But with the assumption that you already know the ins and outs of working, a machine - and if you don't please do not play yourself, get some old fabric practice your stitches and learn how to work a machine with control. I don't want to be that person to discourage you, but this looks a lot easier than it actually is. I don't want you ruining your 200 plus bundles going at this completely blindly um. I promise you won't be happy with yourself. So at this point, you're probably asking and if you're not asking it's okay, i'll ask for you, so legs you've shown me exactly what to do. But what shouldn't i do. I'Ve got the answer for you: okay, so when you're sewing a wig on a sewing machine, the last thing you want to do is stretch your cap as you're sewing on this piece of cap that i cut earlier. I'Ve drawn a line just like you have on your wig cap, okay and i'm repeating the process, as i would any other day, i'm reversing a few times. You know to secure the stitch, but this time around, as i'm sewing all the way across that line, i'm pulling my cap to in air quotes, make my cap bigger, well babes. The results of that are not so pretty. Okay, if you were to do this to your entire wig, this is what you'd be left with a lumpy and bumpy wig. The title of this video says flat frontal and you've done quite the opposite. If you are to follow the instructions that i give you in this video, your wig and stitchings should remain this flat and smooth not bumpy and lumpy. Okay, we don't. We don't do that over here at all. So for those who like to believe that my cap is going to be too small, if i don't pull it, while i'm sewing you're only doing yourself a disservice if you want a bigger fit, just get a bigger cap. Okay problem solved so back to the wig, though i finished sewing down the first two bundles and most of my third and again, you can decide to double or single left that last bundle, depending on how many lines you have left and when i get to the Very top, though, regardless of if i double weft or single left, that last bundle, my very last track, where the frontal is is always going to be single wefted. So that's when the seam reaper is going to. I keep saying reaper it's ripper, so that is when the seam ripper can come in handy again, so that you're able to take apart that double wefted piece. So i sew down the very last track down by making sure that the weft is right. Next to the frontal, but it is not overlapping again. We still want to make sure that our frontal is as flat as possible, and once i'm done with that, i just cut away any extra piece and you have completed your brand new wig with this. You can see that, even though the lines looked a bit you know spaced out, it did not result in a see-through wig and also with the wefts being a good distance apart. It definitely aided in making sure that your wig remains as flat as possible and not bulky, especially at the top. So yeah at this point be sure to remove any loose thread that you didn't cut yet and that's it you guys. I know this was a lot to take in and i hope you were able to watch it and you know take some notes on. It especially show some love down below. If you haven't already, i will appreciate every single ounce of love and i cannot wait to see you guys in my next video you