Shorter Layered Hair Cut | How To Cut Short Layers | Face Framing | Tutorial

Hey everyone welcome to my channel i'm summer today we're doing another haircut tutorial today, i'm going to be showing you guys how i go about achieving my shorter layer, haircuts on clients who also want to keep their length a lot of times. We just have your standard long, layered, haircuts or your bobs, but often we still get clients who like their long hair, but they want a lot of movement and texture. So i'm going to be showing you how i do that i'm also going to be doing some nice face framing, so you also get that texture around the face. So let's get to it. Okay, so i'm going to start off by showing you guys how i do my sectioning. I always just tend to cut right down the middle with a lot of clients. If your client has a specific part, go ahead and cut to their part line. But for this video i'm just going to keep it down the middle okay, so her hair is parted down the middle, and then i like to just come right at the ear, not too far back kind of close to the tip of the client's ear. We'Re just gon na bring that hair forward and clip up out of the way and repeat the same on the other side, right close to the tip of that ear, bring it forward. Okay, now that we are to the back, i usually like to take my back section. You can just bring it all the way down or you can also go ahead and part it right in the middle, creating two sub sections. If you're wanting to keep the cleanest lines possible, just to ensure that your guide is always in place, you can always see it. It just kind of helps things stay nice and neat. So that's what i like to do and then i will make two additional subsections off of these two and then i'll. Have my client look down a little bit when i'm cutting below the occipital bone and cut my perimeter so, like i said, i'm not really trying to take off too much length, i'm just trying to even it out, because this front was a little bit shorter. So i'm just taking just a little bit off so one of the things i do like about the two partings here it just when you're moving section to section to cut your perimeter. It just keeps it cleaner, like i said, especially with people who have a ton of hair um, it's definitely easier with the two sections to clip the hair up, rather than trying to clump it all together with one big section. So once you get basically past the curve of the hair here, the occipital - you can go ahead and have your client just. I always tell them just look normal and bring their head back up in the upright position. So what i also like to do, while cutting the perimeter, i will just take my two outer corner pieces - bring them to the middle, to make sure that they're lining up right. Just to make sure that my guide is straight and now that i'm up past the halfway point, i'll, probably just bring the rest down and cut straight across okay. So now that we have cut the perimeter, what you're going to want to discuss? Also in your consultation is what's the shortest layer that your client wants to see, while keeping their length. I'D like to also tell clients who want to keep the length but see more layers than like a traditional long layer to still keep in mind how long their hair might be. If they've got crazy long hair, you obviously don't want to do you know a layer. That'S going to only be like this long on top, you want it to still flow nice, but you can easily create more layers and movement by shortening the layers without it being so extreme. If that makes sense, so today, i'm going to basically be bringing the shortest piece just a little bit kind of in the ear right at her jaw area. I still like to have some bend and movement for my shortest piece on top and you can always go a little longer and cut into it more once. It'S dry if need be, but i do want to stress the importance of still having a little bit of movement and bend in that shortest layer. So that way they can create height and still like a curl pattern if they're gon na curl their hair and whatnot. Okay, so i basically will start my layers off sort of similar to how i do a long, layered haircut i like to flip my comb back and forth to really get some good tension, so i'm gon na bring it out. Let that base weight fall because we're trying to keep the length which you need a little bit of thickness and weight here to do so so bring that all the way out and cut move up, see the guide cut and then we're gon na go all the Way at the top here cut okay, so now that we have created, like our standard, long layer layers to get that extra shortness. So what we're going to do is we're going to bring the whole hair up and you're going to twist your fingers and your hand. Almost straight and where that point is here at your finger, that's going to become your shortest layer, so kind of bring that down with your hand, just to make sure you're still getting some bend and shape in the hair. So we're going to bring it up and twist those fingers up, go from your top point and point cut into that top piece. So now that we have created this shorter layer, what i like to do to make more of a seamless blend is, i will come in pull the hair and do more of an angle with this section here. So, just to kind of you can see where your guide here is, and the guide kind of up here and you're going to cut this little in between. If that makes sense, just slightly it's not taking a ton of length off you're, not losing your weight down. Here and then i like to just come back down twist, see that hair dropping off. You still have this little corner piece here and just lightly point cut into that, and then we're going to move on to our next section. So then, moving on to our next section, you're just going to take some of what you had there go into your next little bit, so you keep a guide, bring it out, cut, bring it up, follow that guide and then once you get to your top again, I kind of like to bring it a little bit back to the center if you can for your top piece but you're, going to bring it up twist those fingers and cut and then again, as you go back down the head almost twist and cut. What'S left out, on top there go back down twist let that hair fall out from the bottom and cut again bring out, let that bottom fall cut and then again, when we're coming in the top, bring it straight up twist and by this point you start seeing Your guide a little bit better, so it's not quite as maybe intimidating at first, if you're new, to cutting a little bit shorter layers, the importance of twisting is letting your last section fall out, so you're not over cutting and then we're gon na go back down Twist to cut those little hairs that are still sticking out here, all right now, we're on to our last little section here right behind her ear, again bring it out. Let that hair fall, find your guide, cut, cut and then just kind of twist ever so slightly by the time you get to this very end, piece, there's really not much twisting that you need to do just because of the way the hair is falling. It'S a little less hair to work with, if that makes sense, and then we're going to repeat and do the same on the other side. Okay, so now, on the other side, we're going to do the same thing. Bring that hair out, find your guide and cut and twist up see. That piece was a little bit left over from the first section, come out cut, bring it up. We'Ve got some little random guys here, so just cut those once you usually get into your like secondary side. It is flows a little bit better, just because you've already created all your guides. So it's easier to see everything and you've got the movement of it down and again just twist and cut, and then we're gon na go back down the hair, bring it out twist cut twist and just barely cut and now before. Moving on to blend in her sides, i like to just go through everything a little bit one more time of kind of checking before i dry and i always pull out and twist don't forget to do that. It'S kind of an important step i feel for getting the layers short enough with enough movement and always remember, keep that bottom part. Let it fall out, so you're not cutting into the length. So what i also like to do for my final step in the back is i'll just take my comb and come across to pull out like her very top layer, essentially and you're, just going to bring it straight up to kind of double check everything and then Pull it all the way up and what you're going to do is just even out that top line. So i can see my guide right here, the shortest piece and same over here and we're just going to cut into this middle and let it back down. So our shortest piece falls right here and then you can still take a little bit. Bigger you've still got enough bend here and the hair for when we go to blow dry, if they're wanting a lot of volume and movement and when you curl the hair as well, okay and then we're just gon na blend in the sides, i'm big on still Creating those sub sections for your sides, i don't like to just bring all the hair down and cut straight across okay. So to cut the layers on the sides, i tend to kind of focus the hair pulling it back away from the face. I am going to be doing a lot of face framing so that does cut into like the weight and length in the front. But if your client's, not wanting a ton of face framing, i do like to kind of pull away from the face. Just so you're kind of assuring you're keeping that length at your perimeter, so you're going to take your first section here, you're going to pull it up and away and twist your hands you're, going to see your guide almost kind of let the hair fall out there And then keep that hand at an angle and cut same thing here, bring it up and away twisting that hand let that hair fall and cut uh very front piece, all the way back twisting and cut, and then i kind of check it in the same manner. Bringing it kind of down at an angle and cutting if you need to, like i said, i'm going to be doing a decent amount of face framing, so that kind of changes how it's going to lay here and then i'm going to repeat the same. On the other side, okay and then on our other side, we're just gon na take our section go up and away twisting letting that hair fall out and cut next section up and away twist. Let that hair fall and cut all the way back twist and cut. Okay, so what i like to do before i cut the face frame, i will just kind of separate at the ear here on both sides, and i will take my top layer similar to how i did the back. It doesn't have to be like completely precise and i'm just going to bring it up, and i like to you'll, see your guide a little bit. I don't know how well you guys can see it here or not, but it's about right there and i angle it back just ever so slightly for the top and then point cut into that and then now we're gon na cut our face framing okay. So what i like to do for the face framing i'll, just kind of separate right at the ear area and i'll just pull that hair back and kind of clip it out of the way we're going to do the same on this side. So again, with your client you're, going to figure out where they want their shortest piece. What we're gon na be doing is kind of bringing her shortest layer around her face right, basically at her mouth, so we're gon na pull the hair down, and i try to kind of match my finger to basically where i want that shortest piece to fall, and Then what i like to do is just angle, my hands. I take my scissor and i just literally kind of sliver going down more straight than angled, because i don't always like to cut in too hard at first, because sometimes what happens? Is you end up taking like too much of a chunk, and then it creates like this shelf here that it's harder to blend in, so i like to pull my scissors more straight down rather than going straight back, if that is making sense. So, even that you can see a little bit the angle that it's already creating just by slivering down and then what i'm gon na do is just continue to bring the hair in to match that up. So again, now we have a little bit more of a guide, see that guide and then again just sliver in moving. Only that thumb and coming down, rather than straight back, bring the next piece a little bit forward. We'Re going to cut all of this. So once you get over here to like your little bit of a last piece, it's easier to see and you can almost just either cut up into it or still do it the way i've been doing it. So i'm just going to keep showing you guys how i've been doing it so right here come in and just slipper. We have that last little bit there just gon na point cut, so we have a nice little angle going there and then i'm gon na do the same on the other side. What i like to do, too, before i cut too much into the other side, i'll just kind of bring down my guide here and then lightly just angle, so i have already a little bit of a guide going for myself, so i don't get too lost in This next side, so we're going to do the same thing. Take this first little area, bring it down. Have your hands at an angle, bring your scissors moving, only your thumb and just go straight down. I already have a little angle going there, though you can also come on to the other side of them. Pull it down, angle your hands down and come up from that bottom. So match your side here or match your shortest point. Here bring your hand all the way down come down at your lowest point and angle up bring it forward angle, those hands down, cut up that last piece in and bring it up. I like to bring these two pieces forward, see what might be shorter or longer they're matching up pretty well and then what i like to do to balance out my front angles. I will take right along their ear and i'm just gon na bring it forward twist. Let it fall and cut this top and do the same on this just keep moving forward with it, bring it all the way forward twist let it fall and cut that top piece and we're gon na do the same. On the other side, i'm gon na bring it out forward twist it and cut it. So what this does? Is it just kind of layers into the front pieces a little bit more to blend it in bring it forward twist? Let that fall and cut and then, if you want to get really precise to even it out, i like to just bring it up and over and cut what's left out from that little guide. I'Ve just always found this is kind of like a good cross. Checking. Basically, for your front face framing layers just to kind of make sure they meet up as best as possible all the way over okay. My last last step before drying is i'll. Just comb back out the back that i had clipped up for my sides and what i like to do is i just lightly bring it forward just to make sure see how this little guy here sticking out? What i like to do is just to bring that forward. Let down that back, bring it forward and cut any little bit that might still be out just to blend it in with the back and then i'm gon na check my face framing some make sure it matches up. I like to just kind of pop a squat in front of their face, but obviously it's hard to do on camera, but you can also bring their pieces in front of your mirror and look down at them to get a good reading of that as well. Okay, now i'm gon na go ahead and blow dry her and then we'll do a little bit of dry, cutting and cross checking some more and texturizing okay. So we have her styled. Now i tried to give her a lot of like bend and movement with the blow dry, so you guys can see the layers so much more movement and shape than maybe your standard, a long, layered haircut. So what i like to do now is go in and texturize. If you have watched any of my previous cutting videos, i'm always big on dry cutting and texturizing. So a lot of times with the shorter layers. What can happen? Is you get this little shelf? Sometimes that happens. So that's where your thinning shears can come in handy or some deep point cutting especially to the thinning shears are great. If your client wants their ends a little bit more textured looking, so i'm going to show you guys how i go about doing that. So as we see here, it's just a little - i call it mushroomy, so i'm just going to take this hair and then just go into it with my thinning shears to soften that up. So now that i've done that, i just want to go in and kind of cross check and blend anything that might not be blending. So i can even see a little bit in here. Still, we have a little bit of disconnection, so all you're going to do is kind of do what i was doing when it was wet, pull it out with an angle, so we're gon na pull it out angle i can see in here and then we're just Gon na point cut into that bring it down angle and blend we're going to go around the whole head and do that cross-checking. So i see in here a little bit point cut into there they're, looking better, i'm going to do the same on the other side, and i also like to even though we texturize this with the thinning shears like to bring up that top layer and really just Deep point cut into it, soften that out a lot more. This is why i'm so big on the dry, cutting you never know how somebody's hair is going to lay until you get it dried and styled dry. Cutting i feel like is honestly it's just as important as like, proper sectioning everything, because you need to kind of go in and cut into where you need to cut it after. It'S dried, okay! So now that i've done kind of the bulk of my texturizing, what i still will do is just kind of comb the hair down and go through one more time. If there's any spots that i feel like in the middle, maybe right in here - i kind of feel like she's - got a little bit of a disconnect. So i'm just going to kind of check it with my eyes and go in and point cut into any of those pieces just to soften it up some more so okay, so i went ahead and smoothed her out a little bit with the flat iron just so You could see it a little bit better but yeah after all, the dry, cutting and point cutting to blend everything in we've got some nice clean lines everywhere, much more movement. Our shortest piece is right in here. So when your client, who wants shorter layers, goes to curl, their hair they'll have a lot more texture if they like that, like wild messiness, especially if they have a little bit of wave in their hair it'll, kick up a little bit more. But that blends in much much better, let's see two from her side, her face framing just blends right in lots of movement. Looks nice, i'm happy with it. Okay, guys! Here we have our finished. Look. We'Ve got some nice framing around the face for that extra movement. We'Ve got tons of layers in the back, so your client's going to see a lot of texture, a lot of movement, a lot of body. You want to keep in mind with your shortest piece. You still want to be able to see a little bit of bend when placing where that shortest piece is going to be always remember. To keep your hand at an angle when creating that extra, shorter layer on top dry, cutting and point cutting is key. That'S how you're going to create your texture, that's how you're going to fill in any lines. Do not let your client leave wet short layers is very vital, just like with a bob. A lot of dry cutting is needed with them, so that is very important. Do not let the client leave wet, always finish with a nice blow dry and do the point cutting and dry, cutting and cross checking that you need to so i hope you guys enjoyed the video. A short layered haircut is ideal, really for anybody who wants extra movement and texture to their hair and just a bit more fun with it than your standard. Long layered haircut so feel free to leave a comment below. I will be happy to answer any questions. Please like share and subscribe and i'll see you guys next week.