3 Ways To Blow Dry Hair To Achieve Various Degrees Of Volume

Hi everyone I'm Andrew Carruthers education, director for Sambia, so today we want to talk about blow drying. Why? Because it's one of the most important things that we do, you can take a horrible haircut and you can brush a flage it into a beautiful haircut with the ease of a round brush. Well, you can't do, though, is you can't show off a great haircut without a great finish, so really understanding blow drying is so key to what we do behind the chair recently I was teaching some classes on blow drying, and I realized that one of the foundations That we learn in hair school, that's so important, and I think maybe some of us would let go of. Is the really basic principle of off base half off base and on base? So we're going to review this? We have our doll head set up here and I'm just going to take a horizontal section. What we're going to do is we're going to going to do a little bit of a round brush set in three different sections. First, one's going to be completely off base and just to review off base means that this being 90 degrees from the head, we're 45 degrees below the 90 degree from the head and again, that's really important to clarify this is 90 degrees from the head 45 degrees Below gives us fully off base, so we're going to take and we're going to prep that section with our guts 10 the redkin gut stem. We want a lot of hold in here for this round brush set. I really want you guys to see the major difference in between these three elevations we're going to come in we're using our small thermal round brush to really get as much curl out of the hair as possible. We'Re going to use our blow dryer first here at the base, and you can see at that 45 degree angle. There'S a lot of distance between where the scalp is and where it starts to curve around my brush and that's really what gives that stretch in the reduction in volume when you're off base, so we're going to take that round. Brush place it in here we're going to bring in our blow dryer and we're going to work just down at the base here. First, now again, I need to keep that elevation low because with off base we're keeping the volume factor in that section low we're going to work the base. First, we're going to come out where mid-shaft, mid-shaft and mid shouts, then we're going to come in and we're going to hit our ends, we're going to do our ends and and then now to set it. What I'm going to do is I'm going to start to wrap that up make sure those ends get in there and I'm going to heat all the way. As I come up towards the scalp once they get that nice and hot I'm going to turn off, my blow-dryer set my dryer down. I'M going to grab just a little set clip I'm going to take the hair out, go ahead and sit down your brush and at that same elevation we want to roll this baby up, which, for some reason is always the most challenging part for me, should be The easiest rate, because you don't even have a brush in your hand, and we want to pin that to where we're off base you can see. I'Ve got that 45 degree angle here and then rolled and set now the reason we need to actually set this and let it cool is something that I didn't realize is it actually takes a very long time for the bonds to reform after we've heat heated, those Up and stretched them out so on this one. You know it can take up to about 25 minutes for those bonds to fully and completely form so think about that. If I just go in and round brush round brush round brush, let it fall while it's hot. I'M going to lose a lot of the technique involved in it so make sure you're letting it cool if you want that maximum shape from your round brushing. So let's go to the next horizontal section. Alright! So in this next horizontal section we're going to do half off base. So again, let's go back to our elevations now, what's 90 degrees from her scalp, her scalp has started to curve upwards a little bit so 90 degrees isn't down here flat with the floor. That'D be 90 degrees horizontal. We need 90 degrees from her actual head. So that's about here. You can see shape of her heads here, so I need 90 degrees. Again, let's apply some Redken guts 10 for a lot of hold, don't be shy with this stuff. Get a good amount in there when we're doing round brush sets and things like that for photoshoots guys will use a half a case, a head of hair so get after it all right. We'Re at 90 degrees here bring our round brush in now, as they come down. What you can see is I'm a little closer to the scalp now at 90 degrees. There'S still a little bit of stretch here, and I think especially what I think is interesting here is just from shifting from 45 degrees below up to that 90 degrees, you're, really reducing the distance of the brush to the scalp. So you have a lot less stretch there. So let's blow-dry this section so again, I'm going to come in and work. My base first work, the bass and so here's one of the things I'm not going to do guys. Is I'm not going to do this and we need to get away from this, because all that does is blow out the cuticle? So the reason we do this is we don't want to get the scalp too hot. So what you can do is just barely kind of come in and just chop towards the base, instead of doing a big wave at it and blowing out your cuticle. So at the base we're going to work out to the mid shaft, mid-shaft mid-shaft and then we're going to come out to the ends a little trick. You can do here to get these ends in is you can actually take your hand and you can bring those ends up and around the end of your brush that way they're caught into the bristles, and I can work them in a lot of times. If you have a really heavily layered shape, that's going to be a really beneficial trick for you we're going to work. Those ends work, those ends, work those ends and then again we're going to come out. 90 degrees, get it hot. All the way make sure those ends tuck in and then heat it all the way down. Until we get to the base set my blow dryer down, grab my setting clip I'm just going to place that in right above bring my brush out. We want to work fairly quickly with this, because we don't want the hair to cool too much before we get this in work. It down work it down, you'll see I'd. You know I started still at that 90 degrees and from that front view, what you should see is that this has a lot less stretch than this until you get to the curvature. So last one here is going to be our unbasic Earl, so this one is going to give us the maximum amount of fullness, and our goal here is to get that brush to have curvature all the way down until it hits the scalp, because if I have Curvature all the way down at the scalp. That means from the scalp it's going to curve up and out we're not going to have any drag so we're going to work our guts ten in there. So again guys. This is really important. Here'S 90 degrees from her scalp right now to go on base now I have to go 45 degrees above that, so I'm almost straight up and down at this point - and this is a really essential part - and this is the piece that I think we get a Little lazy with sometimes in the salon is we don't realize how far we need to go past, that 90 degrees to truly get on base. So we're going to work again that base face face come out into my midst, Rand, mid strand mids and as we come to these ends, it's really important that that elevation still stays high guys because it would be easier to drop my elevation right now. But then the base isn't going to stay stretched up at that proper elevation. So I come out to my ends, make sure they get tucked in real nice and I'm going to keep that all the way back down and when I finish there now you can see my brush is sitting right over top of my section and that's what we Need for on-base grab a little set clip place that there for a second bring this out, make sure I'm starting again back up here at my 45 degrees above 90 from the head, I'm going to work that curl back down here nice. You can see that curl sits right on top of my section, so we're going to let that cool for a second, let's drop down our first section. So again, this first section is our off base. This is completely off base and you can see on that off base section. I'Ve got a real big stretch there until we hit the roundness of the curl, and so this is going to create not that much volume in our shape now a lot of times. I think we forget that you don't always want volume at the base when you're doing a round brush. You know think about. What'S modern on Victoria's Secret, it's actually kind of closer down through the sides. It'S not big and full through the sides. The fullness is more through the corners of the shape, so maybe you want to do your off base through the interior, then you want to build up just like we have in these sections until you get on base on top. So that's what our off base looks like come up to the next 1/2 off base, so again 90 degrees from the head, and you see this one has a lot more bounce to it now compared to our on base. You can see that on base it really pops up off the scalp. We have a lot of volume coming straight out from that scalp and giving us lift our half off base some volume not as much and then are completely off-base. That'S going to give us the most reduction of volume with still getting a nice curl through the ends guys. I know that a lot of you learned this in beauty school and then we get into the salons and there's so many things we have to remember, and sometimes these fundamentals are what we let go of anytime you're feeling stuck in your work. Come back to the foundations, that's what we found works so bringing back in what you learn in hair school into your modern clientele. I'M Andrea, Carruthers education, director for Sam via you,