Women'S French Bob Haircut With Bangs - Full Tutorial

Welcome back to jatai's academy, today we're going to do one of my absolute favorite haircuts of all time, a little french bob. So we're going to do it with a razor i'm going to graduate and stack the back and the nape, and then we're going to cut our bob probably about to the bottom of the ear. Ish keep it straight and then i'm going to cut some short little cute, baby bangs as well. So let's get started so to get started. I'Ve taken a natural or center part, whichever way my model wears for hair from the front, all the way back to the occipital bone from the occipital bone to the mastoid right behind the ears, and i want to try to get that as even as possible, because This area is where all my graduation is going to take place, and i want to make sure i fit that in and crop that in real nice and clean. This is obviously too much hair for me to start with, so i'm going to sub section this down into a more reasonable amount of hair for me to be able to deal with with a razor. So i'm going to take a small little section right here at the nape, and i depending upon oh, come here, come here depending upon how much of a pokey hairline she has and how many cowlicks she has will determine how thick or thin that section is, if It lays real flat and clean, then i'll, take a big section if it's pokey i'll take a small section and start working it in and fitting it in better. So i'm going to start with a little bit of blade. Glide, the blade glide just makes it easier for the razor to slide across the hair and give me a cleaner cut. I will be using my plie, which will give me the best opportunity to have the cleanest cut and the most control. I can use my regular styling razor if i'm not comfortable using a guardless razor and it will give you 95 percent of the same result. So i'm going to start right in the middle i'm going to take a center section and i'm going to hold straight down and i'm going to cut that right to the hairline and i'm using a fairly broad stroke. Because i want to keep this very soft pull the next section straight down next to it. Follow that guide length looking at the hairline and seeing how it fits in oops come here when i first cut this, especially on a mannequin head, it's going to be kind of pokey and it's going to be pokey on a lot of clients as well, because they Have cowlicks and things like that, i'm not worried about fitting this in perfect right now, i'm just worried about getting my length and getting a shape. I can start to fine tune it later on next section, holding straight down following my guide length in the middle trying to match both sides as closely as possible. The next section i want to take about as thick as i did the first section, parallel same sort of sectioning and just work my way up, so this section i'm going to hold it one finger elevation. So it's going to come out from the head slightly. The first section i held straight down this i'm going to hold out at one finger elevation, follow my guide and cut horizontally straight across if anything, sneaks out just clean that up, so i'm basically going to cut the same line, but because i'm elevating it i'm going To bevel that cut and get me a little bit of graduation follow the same across try to cut that nice and smooth with an open blade. So i have a little bit of movement not trying to cut it perfect. This section i'm going to hold a little bit higher than i held the second section, so the first one i held straight down the second one i held a little higher, the third one, i'm going to hold a little higher. So i'm going to hold a little bit higher with each section that i go up the head following my guide. Now you can really start to see. That'S beveling my shape in the next piece. The same methodology elevate same blade stroke, try to keep it as consistent as possible. Fine tune cut all the way across look see if you got that fairly. Even i got it fairly, even we'll take a little more off right there and then on to the last part of the section on this section. I'M going to do the same thing, i'm just going to hold slightly higher than what i held underneath, follow my guide and cut, so each section gets held a little bit higher a little bit higher. Oh, come on clean that up comb, your section clean, there's! My guide length keep the stroke as even as possible. Now as i comb that down, i start to look at it and see how my graduation is fitting in and at this point i can start cleaning up the inconsistencies in my hairline and inconsistencies in any graduation. That i have, but i don't want to be too precise with it. It'S still going to be a soft shape, so i could scissor over comb with my thinning scissors. I could go through point cut that in i can go through with my razor and just glide over the surface, to help smooth any kind of inconsistent weight distributions that i have out. Okay, so i fit this in to where it's nice and clean as it's fitting in the nape, i'm not done with it. As i start to build my shape, i will take more of that off and especially as it dries i'll really start to see how it fits in and fine tune it more. So the next section i'm going to take is going to go from. I have one flat part of the head two flat parts of the head, so it's gon na go right here, which is the top of the parietal ridge and that's gon na go to the top of the hairline over the ear. So if i've taken the sections properly, it should be parallel to my previously cut section. I will take half of this include it with my graduation from the bottom and then the next section is where i start really building my bob shape. I'M going to elevate this there's my guide from underneath check that in make sure it blends and then continue on on both sides. Now, as i finish my last section of the graduation, i've noticed that i've got a little bit more hair on the right side. So i'm just going to clean that up a little bit hold up elevate, a little bit higher and then just take a little bit of the weight off of that top layer and right there. I can see where it's getting a little heavy so i'll. Take that down right through there, alright. So at this section i want to start building up the weight of my bob shape so i'll take the center section and instead of elevating it like, i was previously i'm going to hold straight down at zero elevation. Follow my guide from underneath and start making a more blunt shape, so i had graduated the underneath now i'm going to go more one length, there's my guide cut! It blunt may help that i make sure that my head is perfectly level so now i can start to work that shape around comb everything straight down in natural there's. My guide cut that one length same thing here straight down and natural fall. There'S my guide cut that one length okay check our line. I like that continue on the other side. So now, at this point i've got my graduation tucked in here. I got my bob shape, starting to build up so from here. I'M just going to take parallel sections until i run out of hair, hold everything down at zero and continue my bob line all the way around, so so so so so, okay, so we finished our bob. Now, let's go through and section out some bangs now, depending upon how much bang i want i'll, take a larger section or a smaller section. I'Ll start the first little flat section right here at the front of the hairline to the center of the recession. Come here baby come here to the center of the recession right here i may take a little bit less yeah. That'S that that looks pretty good and i'll. Look at that and see. Is that going to give me enough solidity and enough coverage for the front and if it is then i'll start with that, if i don't think so i'll add a little more or take a little less if it feels like it's too much now, just as i Did in the back, i want to start with a thinner section to see if there's any kind of cowlicks or anything that i need to compensate for so i'll. Take the entire bang fringe. If you want to be fancy, take a small subsection of that all the way across, and that will be my major guide to determine my length and from looking at this when i, when i'm combing it down, i got a little bit of bounce from the bangs, But not too much so i'm just gon na go fearless and see how short i can get it. I feel like that's looking pretty cute, so let's continue on with our next section now what i'm the methodology behind this is. I don't want just a straight across bang. I want that to be jagged, so why would i cut it straight across and then try to make it jagged afterwards? So i'm just going straight in and just free forming it and trying to guess at the length and just carving out as consistent as possible, the same kind of jag across the entire bangs. I think that looks pretty good, let's dry it and then i'm going to fit in the back a little bit tighter. I want to take some of the puff out of this, but i want to do it when it's dry, so i can see exactly how much hair i need to remove and where to remove it from to get that to kind of fit in a little nicer. A little tighter, okay and we're back from the blow dry. So at this point i want to fine tune what we've already got. I think it looks pretty good the the bangs look pretty good. I think the overall shape looks pretty good, i'm surprised actually at how even it is. I mean okay, don't act, surprised when you get it right. Okay, the first thing i'm going to do is grab my tokyo thinning scissors. I'M going to put the straight blade on the bottom and we're going to go through, and i just want to scissor over comb. This hair underneath take some of the weight out and then fine tune. My hairline here and i'll just go through scissor over comb. That up and out take some of the weight out, get a little smoother blend through there, because this mannequin head hair is pretty thick. Take some of that out anywhere. I think it's too thick or too solid i'll just thin that a little bit just to get a smoother blend. I could just thin and blend the underneath and leave my line solid, but i like a little smoother blend on my line as well, so i'll go about a quarter inch in to the length of it and just thin that out and then down here on the Bottom i'll go through and just free form. This hairline, in until it starts to lay a little bit smoother, become a little bit cleaner until i soften that up as much as i feel that i need to that is not looking too bad. So i just want to keep working on it until i get everything kind of smoothed out like i want now here on the bangs. I just want to blunton some of these pieces up. I like the pieciness of it, it's just too diffused. So i'm going to go through and grab my five and a half inch osaka scissors and go through and just point cut those channels in to blunten it up. So i have a little bit more separation and less diffusion. Don'T move stay still, and so that way i can start to make these pieces a little bit more defined around the front and all and actually increase the pieciness of it by making some of those a little bit more blunt through there. So here's our end result. We'Ve got uh some sweet graduation going on here in the nape, which i think looks pretty good. We'Ve got a good, solid little bob line for our french bob nice and even all the way around we've got some short separation on our bangs here, which looks pretty good and i'm very happy with this one. So, please check out the jatai academy. There are all kinds of haircutting videos on there that can cover a wide range of beginner to advanced. Also, please uh leave a comment, and let me know what you'd like to see next time and we will see you soon. Thank you so much hey you