Modern Hair Cutting Techniques: Undercut Bob Haircut Tutorial Step By Step Using Scissor

She has actually been pre-cut. Why? Because i wanted to show you how we can take a technique from a salon technique, something that a client will come in with every day and then turn it into something new. Without over pushing the concept without upsetting the client without creating something that the client may feel uncomfortable with, so with this, what do we have already? Well, this is being pre-cut into a line. We have a little square line and everything's just being brought back off of the face. Now, i'm imagining. For example, the client comes in they've already got a bob already. They like the bob. They want to have something new, so with this um they don't really want to change it too much. They don't want too much length off and so on and so on and so on. So one idea that we can work with and there are multiple ideas, so please guys don't think there are only one everyone's, an individual with different hair densities, hair textures and growth patterns, so you can work them with each person now with this mannequin here. What i have is, i have a hair density, that's sort of a medium to thick, so there's quite a bit of hair on this mannequin from this there's a slight wave to the technique as well. So i know that this can be moved. Around manipulated can be shipped out, you know created into something different. So what we're able to do is sort of have a little play with the hair as we go through, but what i've decided to do is keep with the concept of a line. Now we know lines, these are the heaviest of all. Our techniques leads leave the weight in the perimeter of the technique, and this is where it expands and because it expands in that area, it can fall quite heavy. So this takes something that could look a little bit more modern, but makes it look out of date because of the weight that sits in it. So what we've decided to do is we're going to work with this length of the front. At the moment it is heavy, so we're going to work with a technique that removes weight from the top gives us options for dressing playing with the hair wearing it down. Tucking it behind the ears, but at the same time, working with these small disconnected panels that lit sit on either side. These will be taken short, so they can be covered over and hidden or revealed, and this will be on both sides, but i'm going to create a slight different feeling on both sides. So when they flip it one way they have more revealing and when they flip it, the other way they have less revealing and then also from this, what we have is we have a very heavy back to the hair. Now this can stop movement and a lot of people they like to still have movement, even if they have something like a line, a pure line, so we're going to then work with an undercut that removes this area here, so this top can sit onto it. Now then, we have options to play. We can tuck these bits from behind the ear underneath and reveal it now. If the client wants, they can wear it just as a pure shape if they're going out, they can adjust and play with it to create many. Many different forms and many different ways of wearing a very sort of classic, but we're calling contemporary classic look. So, let's go from the beginning now with this i'm going to work through this technique, even though i'm going to cut cut very sort of precisely with precision, i'm going to go through this very organically, i'm going to see where i need the weight, i need the Length taken out and work from it from there, so the key thing. I need to make sure that i have my clips uh always a good thing is i have my glasses and i can see what i'm actually doing and i'm gon na be working with a slightly smaller blade. Why? Because this will bring it closer to my hand, which will make it easier for me when i'm doing my blunt cutting, but also if i do any form of refinement as well. So from this we can see from where our young lady had her hair done. She wears it naturally off to one side it just naturally splits in that area. So i don't want to fight this, but i want to make this lighter at the moment it falls very heavy towards the front. So what i'm going to think about is the actual hairline that i have and what i want it to do so from this. If i comb the hair down and i go with it back, i can see where the hairlines start so from this. I turn it to the side, see where the hairline sort of starts, so i can choose at any point along there. Whether i have something that sits more forward makes a smaller fringe or working back to something that can sit heavier well. I want this to sweep across. Maybe we might even dress this up into a shape, i'm not too sure yet, but still keeping it very natural. So this will be the area that i have with that length that falls across the front. Now, if i look on the sides, this is automatically split this area from fringe area to the top down to the side. So let's move that away for now, i'm not going to focus on that for a second. What i will then do after this is. I will use this length here to take away an area that will sit over the ear. This will be taken shorter. So when it falls, everything will sit over the top hiding it and when she tucks it behind the ear, it will sit down and go down into the back. So it reveals that shorter piece. So with this i'm going to layer this, i want more movement. I want to be able to manipulate this, as i work through heavier the hair is harder is to move. Why? Because you have the weight, and this pulls everything down. So from this, i've decided that what i'm going to do is i'm going to have a length that will sit and i can play with and move into different areas. So i need to reduce it from this. If i cut this, we say flat on top creating a flat surface when it falls, it will fall balanced but because the hairline naturally drops down that balance on this side then becomes elongated because of the underneath. So this would fall flat and then there would be more length that would fall into the sun help it blend. If i took it from a shorter to a longer, then what i'd have is the same effect, but it would be flatter and lighter through this set. So flatter and tighter through this area and where the length is lighter through the ends now this will depend on the density of hair. If i've got thick hair i'd want it lighter. I have a heavier hair, uh. Sorry, finer, hair, i'd want it heavier. So i go for a flatter surface and again, depending on how much i wanted to blend with the underneath depends, then, if i can decide, maybe i over direct this over direction, gives more length and helps push it in the opposite way. So with this, what i'm going to do is i'm going to work with a shorter to longer. I have my first section just turn around a little bit to there. Okay, this is where it naturally opened. I will take the section and i will start at the top of the triangle for now. I would pop a clip into this young lady's hairline just at the bottom, so i don't in any way cut any of this hair. It'S very very easy to work through and find that you start cutting hair that you don't need to cut here. We go same on the other side, but in this occasion i'll just comb it away. So here we go so i'll start at the front. I will take a section: the gain is, according to the amount of hair that i have on. This top area is a little bit finer than the side areas. So from this i can afford to take a slightly thicker section, but not too thick with this. I then need to pick it up and have a look at what length i have now, as this was cut out as a line. It goes from shorter to long in the opposite direction, because when the hair falls, it falls on top of itself. What i want to do is i want to lighten it in the opposite direction, so it breaks out into these little wisps. So from this i will stand balanced and parallel to what i'm cutting. I put the comb in and at this occasion i'm keeping it flat before i start to actually move and put my fingers in so it's flat. I have a base now with this. I can then put my fingers in and i can decide where i want the hair to become lighter by reducing that weight. This area can drop away. This doesn't matter okay. This is my external length that i have here. What i'm trying to do is lighten my internal, so i can move it around. I can go shorter if i want less to play with, but if i go too short, then being less hair, it could bunch up, and this is where it becomes a lot harder and that's when you have to start pointing into the hair. So from this i move up into my length my fingers stay straight. My body is parallel to what i'm cutting and i work naturally with my wrists up into this from shorter to longer more extreme softer. It will become i drop down, and i can see from that front area that it's become now slightly softer than what i had before. Okay, so from that, it's dropped down and all the length from top of the nose to the bottom of the jaw is softened. Now i could go shorter and i could point into this later on if it is needed, but i will decide as i go. I decided to a point cutting for the simple reason, a blunt cutting sorry that then i have a choice to break that down. If i need to so i move to my next section, this is going to run parallel, i'm going to work across, but if i wanted to push the hair across to the opposite direction, i would then pivot by pivoting. It works around the head and this will help push it around the head. It won't make it go. You know in a crazy direction, but what it will help is when you manipulate the hair. Now with this, i want this to go flatter, so it will go down and then i can push it against its root later to see what i can do and play with so a parallel section. The same applies, i'm always staying in front of what i'm cutting. So i can see it very very clearly exactly the same as when i do my actual sections i stay in front. I can see everything and then i move now with this. I'M going to pick the hair up and it's going to stay now in the middle of the two sections i'm not over directing. I don't want it to get longer so from this, exactly as before, my cone goes in my body position. I work up to where i had the length before from this same motion and i connect i drop down and that again has made this much lighter through those ends. I keep working a lot in exactly the same process now. At this point, i don't have to think about my sections. I can just work along till i get to the area that i want to start. Yes, sections are very important. It depends on what part of your technique that you're actually working on and when you're doing wet you know wet cuts from wet to dry. You need the sections very clean and pure, so you can see everything you're doing in this situation. It'S dry but i'm still keeping those clean sections, so i still have a guide, but i can still work with very precise sections by just keeping everything falling in the direction. I need it to lie. So again we work up, we go in, we find the length and we take off, and it's the last one. So from this i can work around to the opposite side, just see where that hair was stopping and falling down, and that would be my last section here now - i'm always staying on this side, because what i'm able to do then is cut up into my fingers. So, for example, in this situation i pick up and i can go up naturally into my fingers. If i stood on the other side, i'd be leaning like this, which turns my body off, which makes it harder for me to control, because i am not balanced or balanced like i am more control. I will have so back to what i was saying. So this one here there won't be very much coming off this area if anything, yeah just a small amount, because the hairline dropped and the hair wasn't meeting it from the technique, the shape that was previously there. So i will take this section and for now i'm just going to pop it into a clip and pop it over the top. I release the opposite side. Now i'm going to have a look at this area that we talked about i'll bring her in slightly. So you can see so this is going to be a shorter area. This is going to be an area where she can tuck the hair behind her ears and reveal the short piece now by revealing that short piece. She can have something a little bit more interesting as she um you know goes out on an evening, but also the hair is very, very thick. It can lighten the hair, at the same time, to make it easier for you to actually control your hair for everyday use, and this is something that clients well, it's not just something. Clients like this is something that is important for all clients they are able to handle their hair. I had a client who had very very thick hair, um, crazy, thick red hair and she always wanted a triangle line, and it took me forever to do and then one day i persuaded to have these undercuts it cut all the time down. It became something that she could handle and work with very easily through her day. So from this, i'm not going to take this down technically i'm going to do a little technique, which i find works very very well for when you're working on um when you're working with a you know shorter area, so you're going to refine afterwards. So from this i pull the hair in the direction. I want the hair to go. I will take a small section on a diagonal and for now, let's push this back here for now. I will clip this onto this side. Now we have this shorter amount of hair from there you can see. Let me see if i can spin it around. Just there we go. You should be able to see it much clearer now so from this i don't have to go in and cut everyone finger length down because i'm going to work with scissor comb. Afterwards, i do the same idea. I put my fingers in and then i would go over the top and i would just slice, but with moving the blade until i've taken that length off now. I just follow the same routine. All the way through before i start my scissor overcome i've reduced the length. I'Ve done it quickly and i have done it to a a degree of control. So, let's see, if we can do this, so you can see over so it's this way. Now i go into the hair, i can take it from the opposite side. There we go. This should make it much easier for you to see. So from that see the hair is in there. I go into the same length and i work the blade down. So it connects through. I take the next one off, get this a little bit flatter, so you guys can see it's escaping a little bit as we're working a lot there. We go that's much better. So again, this shouldn't take too long i'll start to speed it up to show you because uh this is a quick little technique. You can work in the salon and we have that's it. So what we have there guys we've got a piece: that's taken down nice and short, so you can see that this can be tucked behind the ear. I will then bring this up to a level where i can see things clearly. Now i'm going to move the hair away from the hairline, so we can see everything quite clearly and what i'm going to do is i'm going to use scissor over comb working up into that point and from this i'm going to take it as tight as i Possibly can without making it look too aggressive. Now on a mannequin, unfortunately um we have. We have a situation where stitching, which can be a problem so from this uh it will show through a bit, but on a real person, you will have a total different feeling. So i'm only going to use the end of the blade i'm only going to use the end of the comb i go in. Can we see that, as you can good i go in, i get my guide, you see, i've got my guide and then from there i'm going to start working up just through that front area until i've got the desired length that i want running through the front. I go to the next point and i do the same again. I have a guide now to follow. I work up exactly to the same desired length and then, finally, i have a small bit that sits just through that area. Over the ear there we go. There'S my first clip gone. Let'S hope i don't drop any more and then to this point and this time i can start turning the blade the other way. So i don't pull the hair out, which i just did, and so i go in. I start working through. I'M just pushing the hair up now, that's with the wide side of the cone. Now i'm going to go to the fine side and do the same again, just just nip off those edges not going to go much shorter, just cleaning what i have and i'm just actually only cutting with that little bit. On the end, it's just that piece. There now again working up into it, always have to be a little bit careful around these areas. So from this i'm just going to work around clean up any of the excess hair. As i said, i don't want to go too short, because, to be honest, this is not going to be seen. This is going to be hidden away, but with that i'm just working through so i can make sure that it sits nicely so from this there's. Just a little bit of weight on the top there, and i can see it now on the other side, there we go so i can see the whole thing there just here so from this i'll. Just take the hair forward, bring the hair forward and i will go the other way. Now i'm going to go into the hairline in the opposite direction to make that go flatter and that will help it slightly jump back and create a bevel that runs just through the edge of the hair. Now, if i had, you know um if i wanted to go through little clippers and skim it over, but it doesn't have many times, i'm going to go over this you're still going to have the gaps and the missing parts of the um, the line. So i have the mounting now we're going to work over to the other side. Now, this time remember, we've got our little side panel over the ear done it's a square line that has an area now that can tuck behind the ear. Now we need to think about what we're going to do on the opposite side. Now, as i say, i was thinking, maybe what we could look at is something that we can flip from one side to the other and look slightly different, so this side's rounder. So when she pushes across sits down very low this side, i think we give a bit more hair and sort of revealed through that underneath area, so, instead of having it as a curve, what we will do last one was down here. We will take this up higher, so you still have hair from here that can fall over and create that feeling of a line, and again this will be different according to each individual that you work with, you can't say it's going to be the same. Every time now, from this drop down into this point, we'll go for a square now more hair. This means it will sit flatter on that side and when you push it across, you'll have more uh, more hairy and some more more of this shorter hair being revealed. So there we have our section now we can do exactly the same again. We can go through and just work, nice and quickly, removing and slicing that area away. I'Ll show you from the side here, so you can see it quite clearly and you know um, depending on how long you want it depend on how um how tight you go, so you can go really tight or you can leave it longer. But, to be honest, it's really. This is a technique for scissor overcoat. This means that you don't have to go through the shape in first and then you know, take the shape out again. This way we're just bringing everything down to a length that we can start straight away since we're overcoming from and it's a quick motion. It'S it's actually very quick. It'S my preferred way of doing this. You know if you really spend some time on this, you can actually match them up really well to a to a level where you well, it's almost like you've done it for your fingers. Everything is about practice, though you know every single thing we do doesn't sort of you know developed just from saying this is how it can be done, and just talking about it, you have to practice practice practice. I taught a student a few weeks ago in russia, russia and the guy was saying i spent always money on these courses. You know i never i've never come away, feeling that i'm better, which is very interesting and - and i said to also are you doing the workshop for these courses and he says well, no, okay, are you practicing these things and he's like? Well, no, i'm like well, of course, you've answered your own question there, so it really is about practice more you practice better. You get better, you get and easier and quicker things will appear to be so exactly the same technique. I'M going to go in right into that root. I'Ve got to be careful again, not to pull out what i've previously got there. I like to start with a bigger comb and then work my way down. So there's my length. I take that off and i'm only using the end of the blade and from this i will start working up into the area above it and then the same again see where it started. I put it in. I find the guide it's just here and i start. Let'S see i'll turn it a little bit more around to you guys and the same again start working out. Okay, i need to move around a little bit more for you guys. Sorry, i'm just i'm trying to look at it in the mirror. As i'm working, not the mirror of the camera, yes, you can use this with clippers um, but what i'm doing here is i'm sort of sort of tailoring this to the lumps and bumps and the lengths that this hair has. If, if i, you know used a clipper, i could get an amazing result, but it can be very um as a machine is it's very um, maybe too pure scissor overcoat, depending on who you work on, depends on how sort of what level of pureness you want. If you can be, if you're too pure on somebody's hair, then what can end up happening? It can look very aggressive, especially on women, so a softer feeling, it's always um. It always works very, very well, go over to the fine side now guys and you can do that by keeping it a little bit looser when you scissor comb using the wide side which i just did and then afterwards, once you get it perfect, is to go Through and just dust it over with a thinning scissors over that surface and that will make it fluffy by making it fluffy, it becomes optically softer and it becomes more acceptable for the eye, and so it looks less aggressive. So you don't always have to do the same effect the same way every time you do something, and then this took me quite a number of years to understand that the rules are there to help you develop they're, not there to sort of you know, um, stop You developing and if you follow them exactly exactly to the um the letter, it doesn't work on every situation and this is something that's very, very very important. Every situation is different, so you have to work differently in each one. So, just going up cleaning off the edges that you're going to go from the other side to see a bit clearer there we go so this piece is off: we've got a little area around the ear where she could tuck it behind the ear. Now, from this we're going to move down into that nape area, i'm going to comb the hair very naturally release those front clips now. Remember we're working through this and changing it from the shape that we have from what we've already sort of you know already got within the technique. Just get the head straight now this this is always important. There we go yeah she's sitting nicely. If the head's not in the right position, then it can be a problem. You can do something. That'S asymmetric quite easily. So from this, i'm going to separate this away and decide where the hair starts to get particularly thick and heavy. But if i'm moving this around, look, it's definitely thick around here, but when that falls over there's still some weight, but some movement to it. Still so, with this, i'm going to take this more square, i'm going to take it more horizontally, tuck this away, make sure it's nice and tight, because i don't want to cut into this at any point, because this is the top that drops over i'll move to The other side and repeat the same process so even though i'm working in a contemporary form and i'm still working with all the same disciplines as if i'm working on the foundations, nothing ever changes as soon as i sort of you know, um start forgetting my disciplines And i'm not talking about i'm talking about haircuts. Now i'm talking about body positions, what you know where to stand which fingers to use how your elbow dynamics works. As soon as i forget to use those which will come from the foundation, then this is when things start to go wrong and they don't work as well and then maybe you have to redo things just so you can see there's my square section. All this needs to go, you could get it. You put it out, it's totally up to you, but i'm going to do it in the same same manner as we saw before. I think bring it to here. So you can see close up so from this section. Goes in i pick up and remember, this is just to reduce, so you can see this. It goes down so watch watch at the back there, nothing nothing amazing going on. It was just removing that amount of hair. So i'm gon na pop that back in i pulled it out while looking at the camera there we go, and this should go down very quickly. I mean, let's time myself, how much have i been going now anybody got a timer going for me so from that bigger and again within the fingers, following the shape that i have remember, this is all going to just be scissor comb in a moment. This is the key thing making sure that i have enough hair still left in it, so i can shape it but again taking enough out that it doesn't become um. You know the hair's too long to work actually with scissor overcome. You know you can start long. Hair like this and start at the bottom and work through and do exactly the same concept scissor over comb and work it down, but it it it's actually better to take the hair shorter. First, i've tried it in many different ways over the years and i've always find the same same thing when i go and try it without actually taking it down first, and i end up finding that makes the job harder for myself. I don't have so much control. It'S slowly coming out and guys if you just joined us, don't worry this, isn't how i'm going to leave it. This is just showing how to take down that length and i'm not slicing through the hair. I'M actually cutting every section as i work so each time. My blade is going just going through, i'm not just ripping the hair, but breaking it down, i'm always using the guide from behind. So i can see exactly what i'm doing coming around just a few. More so i mean that's a minute or so think sort of you know working around this there's actually not too long um. I really need to save the time for when i start working through with this israeli comb, shaping it and that's not my most important part. The most important part i have here is working through and making sure everything is optically balanced now you're thinking, oh, if something like, for example, we have a square on this side and a round area at the front. Now, when the hair cut, when the hair is cut, it won't be too balanced sections on either side, but with the rest of the haircut with the layers and where it's, where it's going to be worn um, it will be optically balanced. So it's very very important. If you understand the two having something optically balanced and having something technically technically, doesn't always mean that it's going to sit correctly because the surface they're working on isn't balanced um. Then we have a situation that the hair won't fall balanced to that surface, because the haircut is balanced. So if you put a balance shape on an unbalanced surface, you will see all of the um problems within the actual shape it will show up. You know in the head shape so having something technically that might be technically unbalanced, but optically balanced um works much better in this type of situation, because, let's get this around, so you can see, listen clearly, if i start from here. Yes, so with this going back to what i was saying, yes, so what i'm doing now is i'm going through i'm going to start taking this underneath area drop over and then we'll start looking at the optical and balance the shape same as 4 wide side of The tooth i go in i'm going to take my first length down and then start to work out back to this again, i'm going to get that a little bit shorter before i start, because this is where the most hair is going to sit on top of And i'll work along again, this is still just removing a lot of the length, i'm not thinking about having a perfect scissor overcome, i'm solely thinking of taking the length down until i move to the fine side of the cone, and then i start thinking about that. How i'm going to work it, how i'm going to make it cleaner or whether i need to refine the shape in a different way again, keeping that blade moving nice and quickly, as i work up through each of those areas. So what i'm able to do is same idea as a clipper blades, keep it working up and i'm not going to get the lines. I never start halfway through this area always start at the base and work my way to the top. Whatever area that i start in so from here i'll start lightly here until i work up to what i need to cut and then i start going in slightly deeper, but i'm controlling that as i go, and it means that i won't get these sudden lines that Appear in the middle of the shape, so once i've done this part here, i will move on to the fine side of the comb and work the same process, keeping an eye on what i'm doing, taking it down always using previous area as a guide, and this Would be ideal if the hair was wet because then, with it being wet it wouldn't stick to itself, it wouldn't catch any other areas saying moving from top to bottom. I'M trying to keep that fluidity of my hand motion as i'm working up into the shape. Now here i'm twisting the comb around till it becomes to a horizontal position a little bit tighter. The clips were in the way a little bit earlier. I'Ve repositioned them, so i can get in tighter to that area. So now i've got that little bit of length. Now down, i need to just clean this up once that's cleaned up. I can start thinking about my top area, the line, the weight that i need to remove, and then it's going to be all about the shape that we've created so fine side. The same concept start working around the edges now, where i'm looking, when i'm doing this, it's right down here this area. This is what i'm checking as i'm going through. Let'S see only there see it's connecting with the other side that i'm not taking too much off and then it's it's balanced as i work through it. That'S why i'm not stopping as i move through the sections you see here as i'm going up, you can see as it's changing in that hairline right here. It'S a bit more, so you can see continuous motion, i'm standing in a place where i can see this very clearly and i'm trying to keep myself nice and balanced. I don't know if you notice my body posture, but i'm actually directly in front of what i'm looking and what i'm cutting. So i can see it clearly, i'm able to judge what i need to take out now, once this is done. We go on to the internal shape with the the line, sometimes because it's a mannequin, yet you sort of you know the the blade will catch on a hair, another blade. The comb will catch on a hair and then it will slip and stops the flow of the scissor overcome, but that's good practice. I i really believe you know, working with the mannequins is, is one of the best ways because it is difficult. You know you do get situations that um are more difficult than working on a real person, so with that in mind, it makes it much better for you to practice the hard way than to go through and practice the easy way. I think this was the biggest thing for me when i went into the salons was that going from you know doing these techniques and i'm real people, but doing these techniques and um? They only seem to work if you had it on the right person and knowing that and growing up and understanding that and how that worked and whether it would um you know how i would have to adjust to do. It was probably one of the biggest challenges that i sort of had in hairdressing, but now because we practice so much foundation and be honest when you put it all together and combine it it's very very easily. It'S very very easy. You know how most techniques look whenever finished, you can judge things quite often um how they're going to sit and fall every time, there's a little bit here and then we're going to go onto the rest. Okay. So, as we said before previously, what we had cut was this square line. So from this, your client now make sure she's straight before we start anything to start with, she had a very, very, very heavy, very heavy technique. There was no movement when you move the hair around everything would bunch up at the back very solid through here now. What we have now is. We have something, even though the hair is still very thick um, but has movement to it. So the next part i'm going to bring her down, i'm going to start having a look at this line - um it's previously been put in. We did it earlier on, but from this we don't want it, this heavy, so working backwards, because all the hair has been cut previously to the same height, so working backwards start the first area, which is the lighter area, i'm gon na work through now. This is quite soft here already, so i don't want to go too crazy, maybe just to take a little bit off there through the front. If i move it forward more, so you guys can see so working into those ends, so that they're still soft and they can be manipulated as they go. So that area is where we have this little piece that we're going to have tucked a little bit later. On now, as we go through, we can start thinking about the weight we have in that underneath so exactly the same concept, so we have a line there already, but it's a heavy line. So what we want to do is now because there's a lot more hair going to go on to this is break into it, deeper, the better um, but saying that, though, if you've got fine, hair and you're doing this, then you wouldn't have to point so much. But then, if you've got fine, hair and you're doing this, you might not even do it at all, because this is to reduce the amount of weight that we have in the hair. So again, you can see, as i go through, where that weight is and i'm not going to cut anything if it doesn't need cutting. So this is always a mistake when it comes to reducing weight within the hair. That'S okay, but there this this part is heavier than any other part running through. You can see finer into thicker, so here i just remove some more out of this part, not too much here, but as i get to the side here again, it gets thicker. I'M not slicing the blade, keeping the blade still so i'm not adding texture, i'm just removing weight, and this is what we needed to the line because it was very heavy. It would still look like a solid line because it was cut as a solid line. You know um at the start of the technique, but it will have movement and flow, which is the main thing we're looking for here. Then i have my last piece sitting on the top. I don't need any here. Look. This is very, very, very, very sparse, but then, as we move to this point yeah, this is where we need to take out that weight. So let's have a look good now, we repeat, on the other side and the same thing here and remember: we have less. We have less hair in this section, it's a curve section, so it's going to be a sort of different process, but we'll start on the top and remember this top triangle we've layered already, so that will be lighter than it would have been as the pure line. So we come through getting a little bit pointed to help blend again that top from the underneath, so the solid shape has been put in and this will lighten everything up there. We go it's time to get heavier and that's where the fringes that we layered out, so i'm not going to touch this and then we start working along the base, as we did on the other side, bring the head forward slightly. Now, if you have a mirror, you can see this in the mirror as you're working and you can move the hair around. It'S really up to you, how you decide to um to visually, see what you're doing i like to see it over the top and i like to work up into it. Then i can see the weight that i'm taking out, see there it's much heavier than the other area. The last few sections on the back here, it's not so much um, because i laid this out before there wasn't really anything to take out of here. So it's been a little bit quicker than when i did the other side. Now again, you don't have to you. Don'T have to do this if the hair hair's finer you'd, leave it in the blunt line that you had. It really all depends on what result you want to achieve and what you've discussed, also with your your client or your model. So from this bring it back around to the front, i want to make sure she's straight without moving so actually there we go okay. So what i'm going to do is i'm actually going to bring her up higher? Why? Because i need to see things at eye level. I know um that i've been in the salon and thought this is looking fantastic as soon as the client gets up and walks away or the model gets up and walks away you're like. Ah, i need to cut this because you're not seeing it from the right level so from this i've brought her up to the level where i feel comfortable that i can see i'm going to check around the outline now. We'Ve changed it slightly because of the um. We changed it slightly because of the pointing and we took away weight so from this. What i need to do now is just to go through check. What i have, which is the top surface of that line, just make sure that i'm happy with how it's sitting so from this just going to take off some of this excess, but not too much guys. Remember. We just pointed this to give that movement to it and from this remember there was less hair in the front because we took that away so from this, i'm going to lift this up to strengthen it again, it's not supposed to be a super solid line. That'S why we're taking the underneath away to reduce that weight and we repeat the same on the other side, move our fringe out of the way we can see from here, we'll just come through now. This has been a natural dry as well. So it's it's not a it's, not a situation of um. It'S not a situation of it's being dried, um, dried into anything. It'S just done from wet to dry and working through the let's sort of look start to sit. Yeah sorry for wet, wet to dry and cut through the cone cut, it would be technically but just letting the hair go to where it wanted to go and not to wear, and i forced it for a blow dry for a second i'll put this these things Down now i need to get some of the products together so that stronghold and i've got some of the outer space, fantastic um sprays. I think what i'm going to do is i'm going to start with the outer space, because you can move it and manipulate it. A little bit more but before i do i'm actually going to use a product that i i find very good uh. I don't know if it's meant to be used like this, but it makes the hair slightly dirtier. Actually, it's not dirty because the wrong works. It'S a shampoo but slightly um, more um for me workable, so it's sort of got a slight um dryness to it, but also at the same time it makes it much easier for it to be moved around very naturally just a little bit of time. So this is the um dry shampoo paste. Can you see that clearly yeah this one, so i'm getting into the roots through those ends and then i'm just gon na start playing? Let'S see what i want the hair to do, which parts i want going up so so we've got this sort of classic shape. That looks like a bulb. So that's that's the very that's the very um, that's very easy um for them to wear each day. They just dry it into position and um and they leave you know they leave it and it has a nice little bob, but if they're going out for a night out, they want to be a little bit more interesting. This way, this way make a slight um tunnel. So when i'm bringing it round, i don't want it particularly clean either. For me, this is just bringing everything up getting out of the way and start manipulating it into there. We go and just something that will sit over the top in a few moments. This will be released. It'S not going to stay like this at the top, so this is just getting out of the way for now now, with this start with a flexible hold this one up to take a little clip to put into there. So this one we're going to comb back, get into our little a little bulk position so for now again, i'm just going to pop another little clip into that position, i'm just seeing how everything everything is sitting. If i put everything in the direction, i want it to fall, move it around to the other side. So at the moment this is a little bit puffy. This is why i need to use the spray to to slip it all down, but now i've got it in the position. I'M looking it's going to be much easier. I need to see what i wanted first, so i'm going to take this comb. It down make sure this sits nice and flat over the ear area. Where did i put it? Put it on the floor in front of me. Excuse me guys there we go so so again, just a little bit of spray. Don'T go crazy on these things. Um people love spray these days, which is fantastic, and i you know i probably one of the forefathers of this on um working with mannequins and styling, because you know when you're doing a lot of um when you're doing a lot of education and you're doing models. Now very often, the models um have to stay there for a long time with their hair in certain ways. So you put spray on, but these days um see, especially when people are working on the mannequin. They they cover it and spray and the whole thing becomes becomes something different. So, okay, i'm just using - i don't know if you guys have got one of these, but for salon, work or just any type of work. Actually, these are very good for just tweaking the hair, just moving it around playing with it, putting it in different positions, and this is what you want from all of your hairdressing work, because you want there to be different options, different ways of playing with the hair And not always just being one option, one style, one way of working, i'm just working against. You know some of these little fluffy bits for the um, the mannequin release. This one see you can actually feel the um stuff in the hair, the um. You can hear it sorry, so i'm going to work my fingers through. Let'S try to build this up a bit more towards that front. It doesn't have to be something that is um. It'S perfectly shaped, as it falls as it's just naturally, full it will go into something and this this is what this is what's interesting, because you don't want to you, don't want to force these to go into places. You just move it around and see how it works, and then something will just fall into the shape that you're looking for and it becomes very natural, which is, which is the key thing you want it to be as natural as possible as you're working through it. Now this definitely gets to go that way. I'M getting into this little piece in front. Let'S get this back a bit more just move around! What i'm trying to do is get it a little bit. Looser. Give me a second a bit more serum, because i need to get that to flow a little bit more, because i put the dry shampoo in to make it a bit more um dirty. But now it's catching a little bit. So i just want to dirty the hair up so, but now it's not going to catch, hopefully as much. Okay, good just last bit of spray a little bit more sort of um work through that front and then almost going to be done a little bit more spray. Okay, so it's just a few little. So what i'm going to do is just go around. There'S always stray hairs. Now these stray hairs is what's going to make. It look a little bit messy at the moment until i've come through and remove the ones that i don't need. I do this on real people. I do it on models. You know um, because these are just the little strays, the ones that we've got away, the fluffy ones, the the the ones that slightly more damaged. In other words, what i'm going to do is um get this young lady molting away. Okay, just a little fluff through here. What i'm going to do is just where's those excess flats quickly with the clippers, remove them yo, guys, okay. So what we've done is we've taken a a bob square line: we've reduced weight in the side. So what we're able to do is use those areas to tuck behind me here and then work with a disconnected length that will blend into those sides as we work through now, i'm not to be honest. This i'm getting a little bit too wet with the spray and it keeps going back down. So i'm actually not going to stop till. I get it right for you guys, which will only be a few more minutes, but i'm not i'm not one for it's not right leaving it see. This is what i want to get is this sort of, but now i've left the spray on the floor. Okay, so that's good it's starting to go into that shape so back to where i was, and now it's going more up and down, i'm not looking for anything sort of you know super tidy or it's like. I just got it scrunched up into the front and made this sort of area now. What will happen is it will fall down as we go along, become looser, it comes softer there. We go that's better, so you can see before we let it go home. So what we've done is we've taken a is a classic bob and just for an evening out, we've changed altered some of the shape, let's bring it down. We'Ve got this cut area, so four looking like a line, a square line with a slightly softer top to it, but as she goes out on an evening, she can play with it. Wear it in different ways. The idea is not structure, but the idea is creating something that's slightly different for her to wear now. Let me just find a good, i'm still not happy with this guys, but you know what i will do is i won't stop after this i'll work through and make sure it does sit perfectly with some photos later this i wanted to come out more. So what we have is we have the back area sitting out. We have the front going in little bits to play with running out. Remember this is just a line. This is a classic line that we've moved played with undercut other side slightly smaller and an undercut underneath. So this is lighter. I still actually give me a second still bits. I want to get off the front here. I don't know if it's noticeable on on the camera, but on in real life, there's always little fluffs that are sitting around the hairline, which is actually interrupting with the young lady's silhouette. Okay. So what we have here guys? Let me move her in a bit closer. We have a bob, a line, a technique that has been moved from a salon look and for her going out on a you know, a night out, maybe in the city, um a party or any any sort of occasion that she wants to sort of look slightly Different from the way she normally looks, we've undercut an area, that's actually a square on this side, so it reveals more and becomes lighter and it's a curve on the opposite side. So we'll actually sit slightly heavier. Can you see so with that the undercut was underneath. We have it running through the side, but also at the same time we had the triangle area on top that was layered out from shorter to longer, so it was lighter to move around. Now myself. I think i might have put a little bit too much product uh through the top, when i did that a moment ago, and it's not sitting as high or as loose as i wanted it to. But what we've done here is we've created a sort of a modern contemporary version of a line that you're able to dress it, but when she wears it, naturally it will just sit down into a square line with a softer disheveled edge. All right guys, listen before. I go would anyone like any questions just before i finish off the live, so what i'll do is, while i'm waiting to see if there is any questions i'll just do a quick recap on the technique, so a classic square line, remembering all the weight sits in The perimeter so there's expansion, we wanted to get rid of that expansion and give a bit more movement and softness to the technique. So from this we came through classic technique, creating our balance, but then came from organically finding where her fringe, naturally parted. We took that area and we laid it out from short to long, so we had slightly wispier edges that we could dress and play with now from that we work through the sides. One side was square. We took it down, um, not actually technically, but slicing the length away and then afterwards scissor over comb from the wider side, then to a finer side to dust off those areas repeated on the other side. But this side was created with a curve. So it doesn't sit so high up, so she has two options for dressing and then the underneath was taken away and again taken down to scissor overcoat pointed into through the outlines and then moved around and actually pushed so it would sit back now. The problem here is, she doesn't have ears. If she had ears, it would go behind and she'd pull and play bend areas out, pull them out into shape and then take the top move it around scrunch it up. She can take it, tuck it behind the ear. So it's much sleeker or just wear it totally natural, so guys. Thank you for watching um again, i'd like to thank adam federico, um he's director of content for r co and a great friend of mine, and you know one of the best. I would say, educators in the us really understands. The business really understands what we need to do again. Thank you, iron, co, for the amazing products. I love the products, thank you and they are actually one of the prizes for the international precision cutting championship of north america, which is on stage two now with ten competitors. Now i've got four days four days to get in their competition, um entries. So with this um again, thank you and if you like what we've done, thank you for joining us. Hopefully you can come over and see us on power and company international page as well, and um yeah join the precision cutting championship um. You know it's a good chance to learn, grow and share your work, say goodbye to my lovely young lady for tonight. Um. Let'S see what a boyfriend says about it. Alright, everybody good night and thank you.