How To: Layered Bob Haircut Step By Step | Textured Bob Haircut 2021 | Curly Bob Hairstyles

All right so before we start like, i said, we'll just wait. A few more minutes, um i'd like to thank my lovely assistant, michelle, who is operating the camera today, but as we all know, it's not just about ourselves. It'S about the team that supports us, so she is a new artist in our training program, she's about to be on the floor full time and she is a star to be reckoned with in this industry. So she is one of those that always says yes and um. She is she's a great help, so i do appreciate you michelle. Thank you. Thank you. So, for today we're going to do a few things. Let me just get started with a little bit of a party okay, and i know that i still have to introduce myself and tell you exactly what we're doing but, like i said, while we're waiting, i'm just going to go ahead and start this. That'S the first one all right go ahead and get you can see, i'm making these offset our semicircle partings coming off of the offset part, i'm just really isolating this top cool, so my name is chris guidry and i was asked by orenco to come and demo A haircut for you guys, so i absolutely appreciate the opportunity that laurenco has given me today. I live in new orleans. I have been doing hair since 1996. I want to say - and i work for the neil corporation - the new corporation is a distributor of aveda products and we distribute to about 13 states in america. We also have a handful of beauty schools and we have nine salons and barber shops all in louisiana. So the name of our our salons, our salon division, is salon paris parker. So i work at one of those and i have been employed and working there for right around 20 years. So i am also a global ambassador for wings, which i think they make great scissors and i truly appreciate working with those guys so um again i you know, i was wondering how i was going to make you know: incorporate orango being a brand and corporation representing Or selling a brand, but i i think it's awesome, because everyone that i talked to about you know. Well, i work for this company and we sell this product and that's another company and everyone was like just get up there and share you know, and i think it's really it's really great - that our industry has gotten to a point to where it's really about hair And it's really about the craft of hairdressing. So with that being said, i want to again thank oren, co and neil corporation for allowing this to occur. It'S really really great. I'M coming to you today from studio 633 in new orleans, it's uh it's actually set on top of one of our paris park locations and it's in the heart of downtown new orleans. So if you hear a rattle, it's not the building, it is a streetcar that is actually passing by. So, if i'm talking and i start to hear the streetcar, i will stop talking and let it pass because sometimes it gets a little a little loud. So anyway, with that being said, let's get the uh let's get to cutting. So if you notice, let me see uh, i'm i'm taking my lady and i i gave her offset part right down the center perfectly symmetric would be a little a little too easy. So this is a little bit more real, real-time. I think the offset part - and i made some semi-circle sections now the right side is going to be a bigger section, whereas the left side is going to be a smaller section and my semicircle partings. I don't want to go below the parietal ridge and i don't want to go below the occipital bone. Okay, so i'm going to really focus on layering throughout the top and then i'm going to also layer in the back here which will incorporate the front and then we're going to do a little fringe work as well. Okay. So with that being said again we're going to do flat layers in the back and we're going to do some undercutting on the side on the on the sides here uh. I really wanted to play with the undercut because again, i've been cutting hair since 1996 and we used to undercut hair for a reason and the reason was to flatten or to eliminate weight. And when you do that the hair tends to fall or react in a different way than it normally does, and so for years we have been working and just cutting shapes into curly hair, and so what i wanted to do today again trying to do something different And a little challenging was to undercut in a way to where you can't tell that it's undercut and it does eliminate some of the weight. So i decided to again take my offset partings and what i'm going to do here. Let me see michelle is going to isolate by taking another semicircle. Can you see that like so so now we have a oblong football shaped section just a little bit here and it's left over okay, so we're gon na isolate that as well. I'M gon na repeat this parting on the other side, so it's not going to match because the density is does not match. The density is different because of the where it's located on the head right and the offset part dictates that i'm going to do same approach. It'S just not going to be quite as big okay, so the good thing about today is that i have a mannequin that is already done. So when we finish this, you do not have to sit there and endure me blow drying right, but we will talk about all the products, how to use them when to use them and how to get the final shape that we want or the desired outcome that We want so again same parting, as we did on the on the right hand: side just a little bit smaller because of where it is on the head shape, going ahead cool, so two semi-circles divided into two, almost creating up more of an oblong shape underneath next We'Re going to isolate our fringe area, we're going to go right to the corner of her eyebrows. This area is also fun, because this is where you have the freedom right. So if the lady likes long fringe, we can leave it long and we can incorporate it into the sides. If she wants it uh cut shorter, then we can certainly cut it shorter, but it is going to be disconnected from the layers up front and in this instance it's going to be disconnected from the side panels as well. So with that being said, i'm going to start in this back section and my intention is: i'm going to cut square or flat layers? Okay, so the good thing about flat layering is: is it it's going to eliminate some of this bulk here? Okay, so my attention with the undercut this is going to be one part. That'S undercut. Is i'm going to cut these these flat layers here to where these layers fall on top okay? So i want this like soft diffused result. Okay, so when cutting square or flat layers first, we want to make sure and our lady is evenly damp, so just a little water, i'm going to grab my scissors wings, of course, wings. I'M gon na lift my head just a little bit so center section. I'M going to pull it straight out at 90 from the head. You can see it's 90 right right here again. I know that i want to make sure that this is long is short short, and this section here hangs over right so again undercut so i need to make sure that my work matches my desired outcome right. So i'm going to stand here, lower her just a snitch, my shoulders pieces right there, so i just got to make sure that this covers that just a little, but it needs to cover it so again, flat layers. I know that i'm going to go 90 from the head until i reach the round of the head. At that point, i'm going to become stick. My my guide is going to become stationary, so i am cutting a square line or layer from the back of the head. Okay, so i'm going to take the next section, the traveling guide straight out at 90.. Remove that hair at this point, i'll cross check just to make sure clean up any little bits. Take my next section and incorporate my previous straight out. So if you notice, what i do is i'll cut the section and then i'll go back around behind her directly behind her and then that way i can judge exactly where the head is starting to round. So now the head is rounding, so i know that i need to stop and make my previous a stationary guide so again, standing behind her go ahead, cross check, making sure everything matches a little bit just to clean it up and continue on. So, with this side, i'm going to go and bring all this back, so i'm going to incorporate the front the sides in the back all together. So i'm going to do this on this side and i will do it on the other side as well. Now you may notice that i did not cut my perimeter first in the salon. I work in the salon one day one week. I work in the salon four days a week and next week i'll work in the salon three days a week, so i am actually a behind the chair, hairdresser, okay and i have clients - and i do clients, um and so you're, not just behind the chair yeah. So um i am behind the chair and i i work on photo shoots for the company, but i also have to build a book and keep a book and maintain a book. So i'm always in search of new fresh perspectives on hair cutting and new fresh perspectives on styrofoam, just trying to keep my guests engaged and new guests coming in. So i do think this live streaming is really cool because it gives everyone a great opportunity for resources, either inspiration when you work or what happened, but i really think it's a great platform, especially in this day and age, something else that i do or don't do. I should say in the salon now you'll you'll notice, that that weight is going to shift and get longer in this triangular shape. One thing that i also don't do in the salon is: i never cut my perimeter first when i'm cutting layers, i always cut my layers, first see how they fall see, how they react, and then i will commit to the to the left. I know in this haircut that i want to leave this length right around here right around the base of her neck right so, and i'm going to go in and freehand these this perimeter later. Okay, so flat layers everything out 90 from the head until it gets to the round. All of that becomes then that last section becomes stationary. All of this is over directed to that section. Same thing on this side stand back 90 from the head. Take one more section, i'll check make sure it's even so. Now i'm gon na i'm gon na go in and cross check and make sure that both sides are matching up telling the same story. My head is starting to round so my previous becomes stationary just gon na continue to travel to the front of the head, bringing everything back and cutting flat. So as far as products go, my approach is prep style, finish, okay, so what i mean by that is what is my prep? How do i prep the hair right? The way that i prep the hair is, i use the shampoo to clean it. Then we use a conditioner to soften the hair, deliver protein moisture. Whatever um do we need a regular conditioner or do we need a mask right? So my prep is my shampoo and my conditioner. My style is what products am i going to use to best help me get the desired style right. So is it a moose? Is it a wax or a model wax? Is it a mousse? Is it a gel? Is it a volumizer right and then my finish? Is going to be, is it a hair spray or is it badlands paste right, so my prep is going to be shampoo conditioner, my style is going to be my styling products right and then my finish is going to be how i choose to finish the hair. What products do i put in to finish the hair, so we'll go back to the products in a second, you can see how that flat layer is starting to collapse. The shape right. You can also see how it is incorporated throughout from the back to the front right. The reason we're doing this is because people tend to be a lot more heavy in the back and a lot more shallow in the front and with wavy hair, especially on this mannequin. You can see through it she's pretty shallow. I didn't want to go through and take any of this out yet, okay, if she was really dense, really thick throughout the front, then i would probably go through and eliminate some of this, probably by doing simple, face framing and bringing all of that forward. So then, it would just go back and forth right so, but in this instance we're just going to focus on the back. Okay, let's cut our fringe, i'm just going to dampen her again what i want for her fringe, something that is loose to go with the rest of the hair, and i want it loose and i want it to have plenty of movement now you can see. This is where she parts her hair right, so currently we're just going to work in this front section, okay, so what i'm going to do is i'm going to cut it shorter here to longer this way? Okay, because i want this longer bit in the in the center to have the ability to move and to swing - and i want this corner here to be shorter, so this has a place to swing and when it does swing, this is nice and shallow. Okay, so we're going to basically eliminate that corner and we're going to leave the length in the front okay, because we again, i want it to move, and i want it to have the freedom to move. So i'm going to go through just like. So all right now i'm going to cut it shorter here, all right, just right down the hair shaft, so you'll see that we have plenty of hair left in the center for movement. Now, as i go up the head, my elevation is going to shift okay. Now i'm shifting my elevation, because i want a softer lighter fringe. This scissors cut right through that hair, so nice, and so because of the elevation you get a softer, lighter line, the same thing on this side. On this section i should say again shift my elevation. A little bit higher than the previous and it'll help with the weight distribution. If i move this out the way you should see what longer here shorter there, the ability for this to still move and swing over okay cool, so we'll go over to the other side of the fringe, and you will notice that, because of the offset part, only Going to do we have a little bit of hair, so we're only going to do two sections. So being that this is not a graduated bob, it doesn't have to necessarily perfectly match, but i do want it to visually match. Okay, so i'm just going to use my previous as a guide just get a visual match: okay, but again shorter in the corner longer towards the nose okay. So now i'm gon na go in and cut in the same manner releasing some of that unnecessary length. In the fringe, so same thing just go through channel cut. Some of that out again, you can see what it's doing you can see how, if you eliminate that weight in the back, this is a place to move okay. So so far, we've done flat layers in the back and we've cut off range right, easy. This is where it's not hard, but this is where it gets fun right and if you think about what we do for a living, especially in these crazy ass times, that we live in having fun, isn't always easy to come across. But we're able to not only have fun but dictate the fun that we have so that's another reason that hairdressing is a great great career choice. It'S not the easiest, but it certainly is fun and we're in control of it. So for the sides, i'm sorry for the top here. What we're going to work on is this first panel? Okay, can you see it michelle so for this panel we're going to take a horizontal section here, i'm going to pull it up 90 from the head and we're going to cut a square line? Okay and then we're going to take all of these sections in this parting and over direct, so we're going to cut a concave shape, okay due to over direction, and what that's going to do is it's going to shallow or make this a little bit more shallow. Throughout here, okay, so we're going to undercut it, but we're not shaving some crazy line in it. We'Re not shaving it to the head, we're just going to eliminate a lot of this weight and a lot of this length. So this next section can fall over and live on top okay. So when cutting this section, we want to make sure that our first section that we cut because of the over direction, this piece is going going to be our shortest and this last piece, because over direction is going to be our longest right and when it unfolds. It'S going to do this right. We need to make sure that the shortest piece is around the occipital bone. If it is too short, it just pops way up. Okay, so all we do. Is we take a horizontal section like this straight up from the head? All right measure, if you need to and remember we're going to the lady, is going to wear her hair waiting. So if it's going to be waiting, this is going to have some spring in okay, so it is going to pop up so leaving it on the longer side might be easier. The first time just to make sure okay take our next section and, like i said we're just going to over direct to our first okay, seeing the other direction, i'm going to take another section, very, very small, but not in a hurry making sure to come. All the way from the scalp, just like they told us in kyle's middle school right over direct eliminate. Do we have any questions so far? No, no, nothing either means no one's watching or i'm just answering all the questions you're doing a pretty good job, explaining you're, good, okay, so again back to the original making sure to over direct and to comb clean all right. When we finish this section, i will show you what it does, but it's basically going to create a pocket. This next section to live in. So this is i've done this several times on people uh and it's it's had varying degrees of brightness. But it's always really worked so uh again. It'S learning, you know. Unfortunately, you know you have to your clients. Sometimes are the guinea pigs but uh. If you feel confident in what you're doing and you're experienced and knowledgeable with the head shape and density, you should be fine and if not then get you a mannequin, try on a mannequin perfect it on a mannequin and then do it on fire. But i know because of the head shape that i will be good with my technique. So if you notice the longest layer goes beyond the opposite of the parietal edge right, so you can see. Let me show you how it collapses on the corner right right through here. It collapses right there for us, okay, the good thing is being that we didn't go below the uh, simple uh, the parietal ridge, i'm sorry. We still have density on side of the of the head and in front of the head. Okay, so we're going to save this top until we do the other side. Okay, so take the next section separate the two again we're going to work in our little oblong football section: okay, so going back to prep style, finish right again, horizontal section right, pull it straight up! It needs to clear the parietal ridge right, okay, so for my prep, my shampoo and my conditioner, i use the cassette curl shampoo and the cassette curl conditioner, okay, the way that they formulate these curly products now is really fantastic, they're, so light so light that it Allows the curl to do what it's supposed to do and i really love that about the products these days. Um again, whenever i first started reading people were like don't condition my hair because it was so heavy. You know or don't make my hair curly, because it was so heavy and goopy and the curls weren't ever able to be curls and now with technology science curly hair products are fantastic. So if you don't do a lot of curly hair work, i would encourage you to start because the technology is certainly there. We have a question from tanya. Would you consider this a strag? No? No! No! No! I would not. I would not. I would consider this cutting to suit my clients needs and trying to eliminate bulk in certain spots while saving length and over spots, so the shag. I would not consider this a shadow right, so you should be able to see where that weight is going here. Right and you should be able to recognize the weight is going here as well. Okay, so what's left is we still have to cut our perimeter and we have to do something with this top right, so we're going to cut this top so with the top being left we're going to cut the light side first or my lady's left side. First: okay, what i'm going to do again we're going to release these the weight and let these curls be curls? Okay, so the one thing i don't like in curly hair is a lot of uniformity, so we're going to cut each section at a different length. Okay, so i'm going to turn her to the side here. So to start, i'm going to start in the front. Okay and i'm going to start in the front. I'M going to take horizontal sections, i'm going to pull it up at 90 and i'm going to cut it and i'll show you that and i'm going to do that until it starts to get to about the crown or the round of the head right. So whenever it starts to go backwards, i'm going to start in the back and i'm going to go from the front to the center and the back to the center okay. So i'm going to take a horizontal section, pull it straight up from the head. Okay, now you sure come stand over here for me. So if you notice, we have layers here right that undercut that we that we cut. We have our length here and we have our fringe here. Okay, so with this, we want some of this to cover right, but at the same time, some of this can be short okay, because we want an explosion of curls, okay or a rand rand, randomness of curls, okay or waves. So what i do in this section that i'm holding is not going to be the same thing that i do in this section in terms of length. Okay, i'm gon na take my section straight up and i'm gon na cut just like so, and then this one. I might leave it long and then this one i might do it short okay. So now, when this falls we'll let lays now we have that. Okay, so again, horizontal section standing in front of your lady straight up from the head now this side, i'm going to leave long, this one i'll cut short this one do that whatever that is all right so now we're starting to get into where this hair really Starts to move around so the good thing about this technique. Is it really allows you to customize the weight, distribution and the length to suit your want? Your need. Your clients needs okay, so and the reason i separate the two is sometimes the client is in charge and sometimes the hairdresser's in charge, so we're just going to go up and slowly remove that hair. Okay, again now we're really starting to see some of that movement. Cool, so i reached the crown of the head. So now i'm going to come in the back okay, so typically we get all of this at 90.. So typically, you would think that this would be a 9., but i'm going to over direct all of this up. Okay, to make sure that i'm saving length to cover my layers that i created in the back. Okay: being that i'm elevating this hair is going to be a salt whenever, when it falls, it's going to be softer. If i was to cut it like this, it would be a bit heavy, so i want to a lift it to save the length and b, lift it to create softness okay, so here i might want to be on the longer side to make sure that i Have enough coverage back in the back, you see it's covering take my next section again straight up to the ceiling, so prep style finish once again. Eventually i'll finish this, my prep is my cassette curl, shampoo and conditioner. My style is going to be the prep, the one prep spray, the great thing about the one prep spray is: it helps your styling products adhere evenly to the head to the hair. I'M sorry well that's a great feature, but the thing that i like most about the product is the next day: it's a great refreshing spray, so you're applying it and use it to refresh her hair on the following day right, so she doesn't have to rinse it Or shampoo, it start all over with the process right. Everything is so fast these days if we could help them eliminate time spent blow drying their hair and still looking great. That will go a long way with our guests, so we finished that top side right and you can see how these curls are just really supporting each other right. So i didn't run my fingers through it. I didn't run my comb through it. I didn't do anything like that: okay, so the style, the one prep prep spray, is what we use. Okay. The second thing that we use for our styling portion of the haircut is the aircraft mousse. Okay, the thing that i love most about the aircraft mousse is, i love moose in general, but i really love the fact that this moose gives it that second day tousled lived in feel so that is, that is my style anyway, and that is certainly a current Thing that we have been seeing in hair for a really long time, so that's why i love that mousse. So going back to the the haircut our left side and our right side does not have to match. We do not want it to match it. Shouldn'T match right so making sure again to pull it straight up from the head. We'Re going to cut one side, one piece, a little short one piece, a little long, the other piece we can do whatever we want with that. But what we don't want to do is we we don't want to measure and we don't want to make sure and we want to make sure that our pieces do not match, because that helps the erraticness appear. Okay, tousled broken individual. Those are all words that come to mind when i think about what i want this hair style to look like. Okay, so finish with the top go to the behind the lady to the back portion and again, horizontal sections elevating up to the ceiling, making sure that our pieces are long enough to cover the layers that we cut earlier in the back same thing. Here, right to the ceiling drop it over and to finish the style, we're going to use the badlands paste. The great thing about badlands is: it has the effect of dry shampoo mix with a paste or a waxy kind of feel. So it's like two for one with that product really really cool and then, of course, the finish the moon landing because of its anti-frizz anti-humidity properties. Again i live in the south in new orleans. I love my city. I love the people i work with, but we do have a humidity problem, so anything that will help combat. That is always a good thing. So, if you notice some of these bits are going to be long and some of them are not going to fit in. I am okay with that. That is what i want okay, so this is our desired or our finished product right now you can see that it has the ability to get some lift if you want. It also has the ability to lay flat if you want again with the fringe. We have the ability, because we left that left to kind of swing over or to be incorporated into the sides right. So what we have left to do is our perimeter, so with the perimeter, all i'm going to do is really just free hand this front to match the back okay. So i like a soft, broken perimeter. I think it looks a lot more natural, especially in weight. Here i mean i love a good bob line. Don'T get me wrong, uh a good, strong, solid bob line, but if i can have loose soft broken pieces, i will take that all day long. So i'm just going to go through and visually cut. My perimeter, we should just follow me around. I'M just gon na go through and clean up all of these little bits and pieces, so we did a little technical work and we did a little visual work and i think that speaks to the modern day haircut. I think it's about knowing your techniques, knowing your desired outcome, but then, at the same time, i think it allows you the flexibility to create something that is special and unique for you and your guests, so gone are the days that you have to do it. This way, which those days are sorely missed in some regards, but it is today more about the collaboration between the guests and the hair stylist, which is really cool cool. So now that she's cut get my wide tooth comb. I'M gon na dampen her again just really trying to get it even perfect. Okay! So now my one prep spray right. So i really want that product to stick. Okay, so i'm going to apply the product with my hands, apply the product with my hands and comb. It through okay, once that has come through and the moisture fit, feels consistent right. Then i will take my aircraft mousse right and apply in it. So i'm going to apply this front section a little bit in the back. It'S a great sound, it's kind of like when champagne pops this whole back section here, make sure that we get it all throughout again this front section making sure to get it at the roots, we're going to comb it through to make sure that we get it All throughout the ends, and just because it's wednesday we're gon na put a little bit more because who doesn't love moose on a wednesday all right, so we'll get it all throughout. Get our cone coming coming all throughout and make sure you should be able to feel it on the hair at this point. Next, we need to make sure that we have some sort of pins. We got to make sure that we have some sort of blow dryer, whether it's a a little roundabout thing or a hooded dryer or a diffuser um, but we should all have all the necessary equipment that we need to deal with waves, there's so many uh hairstyles. That i know that are like i don't even own a diffuser, i'm like you do hair for a living. How can you not own a diffuser, you know? So if you don't own a diffuser, i would strongly suggest that you go and purchase one. They have the baskets and they also have the sock diffusers. I really like the sock diffuser. Another good thing for curly hair is a wide tooth comb right, so i'm going to get the hair in place. How i want it to look right, do i want it off of her face? Do i want it towards her face right? Do i want to open up a little bit off her face right and same thing with this side? I know that i want some of this in her face right, so i'm going to start to set the hair and i start to set it by placing it like. I wanted to look okay, so i have these little clips that i love. I got these in paris years and years and years ago and now shear world started to sell them, which is a great thing, because now you can get them in america. So i get these little clips and i go in vertically. I grab the section of hair right. I almost really just let it talk to me and tell me which one you want me to pick up right. So this piece i want it to be a little, have a little, not necessarily lift right. We'Re not trying to make anything, we don't want her to look like a country and western singer. For god's sake, we just want a little lift. It also helps to separate so the air gets in there and dries it faster okay, but we're creating a set. So we're putting it in place to be set. Okay, so same thing here. This is a great thing for your clients to do in the morning time, so they can set the hair and then they can go ahead with their morning chores while their hair dries in place and then finish with the diffuser before they walk out of the building Or their building their house right, so their drying time can be greatly reduced if they just set their hair and then finish it with the diffuser at the end. Okay, so to recap, we cut flat layers in the back right. We cut our layers throughout the top. We use our over direction to create that that empty shallow space right. We cut our other pieces throughout the top at different lengths to create the erraticness, and then we cut our fringe right. We cut them from shorter inner corners to longer towards the nose to create a little bit more movement and a lot and allowing the hair to move creating that separation. Okay, so, like i said, i'm not going to diffuse the hair, because i already did that. So let me take her off and bring her out and you can see she still has the clips in her hair okay. So we diffuse this probably about 90 of the way dry. Okay - and i usually do curly hair to about 95 to 100 percent dry, because i really want the product and the curls to interact, and i want the product to do what it's supposed to do. The product is supposed to set the hair right and give it a give it the hold or the shine that it's supposed to do so now you can see i'm going to put a little air to it. I'M just going to scrunch it right and that'll. Just go in and help break up that look of product. Okay. So again the only thing we have in it right now is the prep, the one prep spring and the aircraft mousse. So, as you see once you go through and you start breaking up and softening that product, the hair really comes to life, the good thing about pearls is, if you let that product do what it's supposed to do, and you don't touch it too premature. You can really play with curls all day long without having to worry about frizz. So once it's dry and you take that sticky product look away, then you can really start to have fun with it and let the personality of the guests come out right. So i always put a little air in the curls, because i want them to look a little bit warm and not so fresh out of the salon right. So once you finish that, then you can take a little bit of your badlands paste right. This stuff's wicked, by the way, if orango, if you want to send me a t-shirt, i would wear it all the time, one that said badlands, because it really is a cool product, so put it in your hands, you emulsify it and you can see the shine. You can feel the grit in the hole that it provides and then you go through and really again scrunch that product into the hair cool and separate some of that. So what you're trying to do is get that that hair to separate from itself, because you want to be able to see through it and you want to see the erraticness of the curls. So this is the moon landing beautiful product again, this is my finished result. Michelle will take you around she'll, show you the back and the sides. I hope that you love it. I hope that you use it and i hope that, if nothing else, you at least attempt it and play with it and get some ideas and some inspiration uh again, my name is chris guidry chris guidry does hair on instagram uh. If you have any questions, comments concerns please reach out to me big big. Thanks to the neil corporation oren, co wings, get you some wings! You got to get you some wings, some four and a half. These are great uh, paris, parker salons, all my friends and family and, of course, mr adam federico for setting all this up. Thank you. So much cheers.