Disconnected Layers | Remove Bulk, Keep Length And Speed Up Blow Drying Time
- Posted on 06 April, 2015
- Bob Hairstyles
- By Anonymous
One problem area that many of our guests with thick, coarse hair face is having too much bulk or weight at the back of the head. Too much hair in this area creates challenges when blow drying & styling hair, not to mention it feels like a village of hair is living back there!
So how to we go about removing the bulk while keeping the length? The answer is simple my friends. Through a simple under layering technique we are able to detach the haircut, remove bulk, create movement and reduce blow drying time! Watch the video and read below to learn how it's done.
Learn more about this technique on our blog:
https://www.samvilla.com/blog/disconne...
Recommended Professional Tools For Success
Professional 7" Dry Cutting Shear - perfect since we'll be removing dense, coarse hair and this shear will get through the hair with ease.
https://www.samvilla.com/products/shea...
Professional Dry Sectioning Clips - keeps the hair out of the way so you can concentract on your cutting techniques.
https://www.samvilla.com/products/acce...
Professional Long Cutting Comb - great for creating the zig zag section that you'll use for this technique.
https://www.samvilla.com/products/comb...
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You hi Sam, VA here with my guest Karen one of the major concerns that we hear in the chair from a client is: will you please get rid of all this bulk back here and if you noticed when the hairline grows, as you look at the hairline, The growth pattern is, there's less hair in the front and a lot more hair in the back. So we really need to go in and know how do we take out weight without really releasing any length? So it really is about saving the client blow-drying time. So when we think about that, let's think about detaching areas to save the client blow-drying time. So, let's think about this particular problem. Here'S your solution! So what we're talking about is we're talking about this center back area back here and, as you know, for a client to dry back here. It'S a lot of work for them to get back there and work with a blow dryer and a brush in the back area, so take away hair that they can't see, and they can't really work with it's just too much hair. So what would you do? Sam I'd come in and I'd separate front to back, so I just go through and we separate front to back. Okay once we have that front to back separated. All you need to do is just separate one side. For now. I want you to comb the hair horizontally. Look how much slope the grain is going horizontally across the back area. So once you have a combed across the back area, ask your client just to tilt her head forward, move our shoulders forward. Okay right there! Thank you! Karen, I comb all the hair this direction now watch the comb comb is going to come in, keep it all nice and level the grain now that going to comb comb is going to come in right at the height of just at the top of your ear. I'M going to come in, I'm gon na move it ups and down up and down up and down up and down up and down up and down up and down, and I've kept the teeth of the comb right up against her head. Now I come in and I slice a section right at that level so that what I achieve is I achieve a zigzag section. So it's really simple doing that now I want a zigzag section because I'm going to detach this bottom area here so where you go in and where you slice, that's where the line is going to be. So if I take all this out, okay, then how much hair do I have? On top of that, I want you to always check that. I'M going to take my line a little bit higher. Why? Because there's still a lot of bulk and wait here, so you have to determine this by density, so let's go a little bit higher, so I go back up. I comb the grain once again horizontally. Okay, so remember this: if you want a horizontal zigzag line, your comb is vertical. So now I go in just slightly higher than the ear this time and I go in I'm going to zigzag up and down up and down up and down now, because I'm higher I'm going to make my zigzags a little deeper look at my comb and you Just move your comb across till I get to the other side of that ear: slice where I want it, you can see. I'M higher okay now come through and lift up, and you can see the zigzag this time it's a little bit deeper. I love that. Okay, so I'm going to come across to the opposite ear, so I'm coming across and I just come through continue my zigzag to the opposite side. Now, it's time to go ahead and isolate this, you can see. She'S got an existing bob with a detached length into the front area there and I'll show you how you can go in and get a little bit more of a blend out of that come back through and now I'm going to isolate this now. Take a look at the clip. Okay, we made a clip for you with elastic because when you're dry cutting your clip something like this when you're dry cutting and then what happens, is you get a mark on that hair? Also, I want you to notice how that clip isn't sliding out, especially with that thickness of that hair. A lot of times Clips like that slide out, so make sure you pick up your dry. Cutting clips and they'll really help you in terms of your work. Now I want to take this out, but I have a mature client here. Why should I take this scissor over comb? That'S a little bit more of a drastic kind of shape to create, underneath that would be an undercut. What Sam wants to create here is an under layer. Remember. The objective here is not to create something aggressive. The objective here is to solve the problem of the client, which is there's too much hair in the back, and it's taken me a long time to draw it because I'm going to work with draw a I'm going to work with a 7 inch dry, cutting okay, Something has a little bit more weight to it and can handle getting through that mass amount of hair we're going to come through and I'm going to come just to the left of center and to the right of Center. I'M going to take all of this section up up up up, I'm taking it up, so I bring this up. My hand is right up against her head. So can you see especially Carol? I want to maintain my length, I'm leaving her length, but I'm going to take the weight out, so I'm taking it horizontally across. So we come right across horizontally. Okay now watch what happens when we release this is automatically going to collapse, and then this hair here is going to sit on top of that, so we're actually taking all of that weight away come through and I'm going to stay horizontal watch. How I stay horizontal straight up, there's my guide looking for that guy come through and another continuing the same, horizontal line straight across in that back now, that's going to give me a little bit of length right back behind that ear area here coming back through and I'M cutting it dry, so I can go in and see it. We can dampen this and go to our finish afterwards, but I want to go through and just get the weight out here why I want to do that first before. Maybe even you do this first before you take them to the shampoo bow and the reason being you do this first before you take a shampoo bowl is get it rid of hair that you really don't need. You know you're going to cut it out, cut it out now and then you can come back and back in and refine it now watch what happens when I take this now I put this over that I'm going to give you a profile view of how that Has collapsed the shape and you can just start to see how she doesn't have as much massive hair here. Karen bring your right hand back behind here and just run your hand through that, and just tell me what your response is in terms of that. It'S a lot: it's a lot thinner, so we've taken that weight out, so it's a great little trick to go in and release the weight in terms of saving the client blow-drying time now. This would be a good time. You take the client to the shampoo bowl. So I do that after I have my consultation. I know it's something I'm going to do. Why take her the shampoo bowl shampoo, all that excess length then bring her back here. I know I'm gon na dry cut it now, I'm drawing something that I know I'm going to take off remember this is something that you and the client cannot see, but remember this when you look at this, it's really interesting when you look at this graduation underneath Here, what you're going to have is we're going to have a vertical section? That'S going to move from short to long, so it collapses that underneath now you can go in and leave cut. One link Bob go through and layer it out we're going to go through and layer out and give us something that has a lot of movement to it. Has this kind of essential kind of edge to it so once again, really cool trick to solve the problem problem. Get rid of this bulk back here. Taking me too much time to dry solution. Do an underlayer not an undercut that would be based upon the person. Easy way to do it, do it before you shampoo, you know you're going to take it out now, you're working with less hair, because you're going to dry cut this. You want to dry cut this in this particular case. So now I go in and come back to the shampoo. Do my blow-dry get that where I want it now I can go in and tweak it refine it, and now I go in and cut this dry Sam. Why you're going to cut this dry? It'S got a blonde texture to it. It'S a lot of hair. I know I'm going to point cut aggressively into it. So, as we go in remember, dry cutting is a visual exercise. It allows us to see the visual edge as we release each section. So it's really good for you to cut dries for the benefit of salon professional, not for the client once again, Sam with Karin, coming to you with a great little tip to help you solve a problem. Remember at Sam via we have the solutions, and thanks for watching you
Comments
Herbs and Magick: Thank you so much! I have thick, curly hair and it’s very hard to find a good stylist. After I moved, it seemed no one knew how to handle this hair so I started just doing home cuts. It worked well enough, but I didn’t know how to do this bulk-removal that leaves the length alone. After watching this video, I did it and it worked exactly perfectly! Because I did it on myself, and possibly due to length, I had to also remove bulk from the sides. My hair is so, so much lighter now! It is summer and the summers here are so hot and humid that I often chop off length to manage. Now I don’t have to anymore!
Lisa Ward: This is awesome. I use this technique with the triangular section on a lot of my male clients to debulk the area on the sides. Now I can use this also. Thank you.
Brian Lambert: Sam to me your videos are some of the best on the internet. Thank you for your guidance. I wish I could work with someone like you to become great. I have a license, but I do not practice cosmetology like I would like. Please keep showing us your magic.
kthoopify: Love this! Idea for a video-how to help a male client go from a short clipper cut to long, shoulder length hair! Have a male client trying to do this now and we are hitting some pretty awkward stages at the moment!
Courtney: Thank you so much Sam for everything you do to help us!! You are amazing!! Love that I have a free website to learn from!! You Rock!! :D
Sophia Summer: Very great video! I wonder why some schools don’t teach this! Most stylist I go to don’t know how to do this. They love to use a razor and my thick hair doesn’t do well with that.
Angela: I had this done today best thing!!
Bramstoker: A group of salons owned in Australia and elsewhere, has an excellent cutting technique for removing weight from thick, frizzy/coarse hair. It is a game changer! I am offered an undercut, a keratin treatment or cutting shears when l ask for this process, that is, maintain length and remove weight from my thick hair .
Nadine Eberts: Thank you Sam!! This was amazing to see- it'll definitely help!
Amber Smith: I love his videos and how he explains everything!
Mary Brazil: Just brilliant! Now I know what to tell my stylist on my next visit. Thank you Sam!
Dawn 💚🌟: Awesome tip!!!! I have several clients this will be perfect for! Thank you!!!!
bookwrm4evr: Great technique! How could you use this technique for the sides of the head, or would you? Specifically for thick hair with short cuts or men's hair who is thick on the sides, but bald on top.
Star Seed: Wish I would have found this before doing a pixie on myself. That was my entire issue, extra thick hair in the back!
Mel Ventura: I got an A-line bob haircut and i have thick hair so the ends of my hair looked kinda "bubbled" (mainly around the area that is behind my ears and the back of my head.) I asked the hair dresser if she could soften it a little and take away some weight but all she did was point cut it... and its still looked blunt and round. Smh. I figured I'll try fix it myself. And I'm so glad i came across this video! I tried this technique on myself and omg, it worked! My hair doesn't look as heavy and blunt. Now it had more of a softer look and falls very nicely. Thank you Sam, for sharing your talent and knowledge with us. You saved my hair!
Anngie Siruma: Hi and good day to you! I have a concern on how to create a graduating hair cut at the lowest (the ends) length of the hair? It's like how chopping a lengthy hair flat and even... I would really would love to see you do it on semi-curly hair. Thank you very much for your time!
NeutronX101: This should be the video they show in hair dresser school. Tired of seeing my mom getting butchered.
masha antonia: This helped so much !!! Thank you you consisive explanation
Monique Donshay: sam how long would this take to grow out even? and can you please record a video doing this on a longer hair client please !!
Distinct Loafer: This man never missed a beat, phenomenal!
Sandy: What are the pros and cons to this procedure? I like to wear my hair up too.
Dawn Bennett: I'm also a mature woman, going to have this done!
nel dormiveglia: My hair is fine but I have A LOT OF IT, so when I get blunt haircuts it can look pretty heavy and bulky. I currently have it just below my chin and just by looking at it you wouldn't be able to tell the amount of hair my hairdresser removes off my head in layers lmao. She doesn't do this undercut technique, but these: - Subtle traditional layering but pulling the hair up on an angle and cutting the tips. - Literally dragging the scissors down my hair. - Twisting strands of hair and dragging the scissors down as well. I always love paying close attention to the way she does it all. My hair comes out looking like it's been styled even before we've done anything to it. A good cut really makes a difference, specially with shorter styles.
Maria Pereira: SAM SEMPRE VEJO SEUS TRABALHOS E TENHO APRENDIDO MUITO, VC É BARBARO,PARABÉNS DEUS TE ABENÇOE
Lacey Prokop: I realize I'm super late to the party.... I'm watching this now b/c I need bulk removed bad! My hair is so heavy. However, my hair is coarse and curly. Cutting horizontally is adding volume. I don't want volume added at all. What do I do now?! Also, would this be recommended on curly hair in the first place? I'm going to keep searching your videos. *crossing fingers you have videos on long, thick, curly hair".
Shenia: The client has such beautiful healthy hair Awesome video. ❤️
Scarlett: This is a fantastic tutorial
queenpig: Would an under layer work on someone with long thick hair(hair thats a little longer than bra strap)
Sonia Holmbeck: love this! Super idea!
Alex Williams: My jaw dropped when he cut. Then voila!!! Amazing!!!
Passionate Brazilian Girl.: Thank you so much for this tip. can I use this trick to remove bulk in the crown of a curly full lace wig please?
Curlytash J: This was a great video thank you
Cat Bee: Does anyone know of a stylist in Southern California, who does Sam's technique for layering and reducing bulk in thick, coarse hair? I have not worn my hair down for YEARS because I've been unable to find (another) stylist who knows how to work with my thick, coarse hair. My previous stylist, who I was with for 15 years, was forced to retire after a near-fatal car accident:( He cuts were amazing because she knew how to work with my thick hair. Ever since, I've been to many stylists, but they do not have the technique or ability to cut my type of hair. For the past 10 years, I have just resorted to putting my hair up into a bun or pony tail. l and I'm SO sick of it. I have great hair (stylists have always told me), but I have not been able to wear it down because it no longer has any shape, layers or movement to it. If anyone has a recommendation for a stylist in So California who truly knows how to work with thick, coarse, shoulder length hair, I would be most grateful. thank you! ~Cat
Fernie Andong: love those new thinning shears Sam !! gotta get me some
Sara khan: thank you so much Sam sir
I'ma Vegemite: Hello Sam, I have wavy hair, fine hair but lots of it, I like it really layered and weight taken out, can you do a haircut on someone with hair above the shoulders and show me how to cut my own hair, cause her where I live in Australia, the hairdressers have no idea, I lose length every time I say to take weight out, whilst having it heavily layered.
Cindy Snow: The zigzag thing is confusing me. But I think cutting the thickness out makes sense.
Ashley Wadlington: super helpful
Jellyy Bun: And im over here wanting to get my layers removed
Xara Rose: Thank you
Mr &Mrs Reed: Amazing!
Monique Donshay: if this is done on longer hair, would you go up the head and stop when you see the length drop out ?
wanditasflow: Omg! love this man!
Joshua Young: That's great!!
leila9409: GENIUS. THANYOU SOOOOO MUCH!!!
deline dotito: Thank you!
Susan Amin: Very smart idea .
Hanan Ra: What if we want to make our hair to be thicker!!! What is the method ?
Misty Fontenot: Can this be done for sides to?.. I have very thick curly wavy hair..but dry and straighten it also
Mustard Seed: Villa the greatest!
Sara khan: Awesome sir
J Wilde: Mines more higher near the top at the back. Would this still work. Ty
Sandy: Could this be done at the sides and cut out the “dog ears”?
Felicity Kassis: What about long, bulky hair? How can i make this technique work?
Mariela Aleiramh: I love this Man!
eviee: God bless you❤️
Nathi: wow you're amazing! I want you to cut my curly hair! <3
Lyona Mahshcenko: I want more bulk in the back!! On the bottom :( how do I get that I want to reverse of that haircut please please please help!!! Every hairdresser cuts my hair like this and it creates only more bulk in the middle of the face and I want my Bulk to be on the bottom below my cheekbones, They leave too much hair in the front of the face so I have this ugly layered boat in front of my face they leave too much hair in the front of the face so I have this ugly layer bulk in front of my face
Manny Hood: Sam Villa we love you!!
sana m: Does this work on ppl with wavy curly hair ??
Theresa UzhcaP: Wow!
Judy Ha: "Thank you Karen"
bone red: looks like her hair is made out of silk. Never seen anything like it
I'ma Vegemite: Hair dressers are hopeless too many people go into the field and have no idea, or they aren't trained properly, my god I so wish I could afford an expert like him, or find one to start with.
Jeanette White: Awsome
Ushma Asher: I asked my stylist to do this but she just won't understand :( And I don't really trust other stylists with my hair. Man I wish I could book an appointment with you but I'm in India....:/
islem kacem: But how u do it with super long hair!
Donielle: OMG she DOES NOT have thick Hair!
SolListens: okay am gonna show to my hair parlor next time
Ambers Lil Rose: What kind of wizardry IS this?!?!!
Brooklyn D: I cut my bangs into a fringe and well kinda grab a piece that didn't belong in my bangs and I cut it short and now it sticks up any advice on how to fix it please help & reply.
Donny Indoiz: Keren
Deepika Kumari: hii i need ur new video
Nas irB: She has beautiful hair
Cecilia Reynoso: Can you cut my hair?
Lucky Bhatia: ABAHAHAH KAREN
Jaquosh: You really think, you're the master of haircutting, don't you? What do you think about finishing a cut? Don't like the half thing you did there.