How To Cut A Box Bob Haircut Tutorial - Short Bob Haircut

Yes, William welcome to us a very light take over when you're in London and stand-ins things being consistent with late education. This is Michael guys. Thank you for tuning in my name. Is my father's tell you something: that's gon na be our model today, for you guys. So what we're gon na be doing is a lovely sweet Bob. The Bob will be sitting just below that is and sitting just towards the mouth area, and so we're going to be spotting this haircut by doing the graduation in the back, and so the secret I have for you guys today, is how we start the back of The haircut so as you can see I've already sectioned off the bottom from the area that I want to create my graduation. So this is where the haircuts been a sip. I had that just very little bit of graduation in the bottom, under the curve towards the fun something was very difficult in hair. That seems to create this very short amount was really new amount of graduation in the haircut. So I hope this is going to be a good tip to you guys when I learnt this, it really changed my life. So what I'm going to show you guys here is how we create the weight line, what we call the graduation where it sits around the neck, so we wanted to just curve around and sit towards the mouth. The way we're going to do this is we're just going to be lifting the hair up. So all I'm doing here is I'm coming from the underneath. I'M lifting the hair all the way up and I'm going to be pulling the hair out to create the weight line. So, where I place this and when I curl it to and cut it and as it falls, this is where you're going to find the graduation where it's going to sit. So we're not doing this first section. It'S always good, maybe I'll turn the chair around a little bit better. So you can see when you did this first section, it's always good to do it a little bit longer than what you think and then afterwards come back in and refine it. So I've done my first length and I've lifted all the hair up. I'Ve combed it forward and I've cut my first leg towards the graduation, but I want to see if this is going to sit in the right place. So I'm just going to climb the head down and I'm going to look at this top section, this top part and see if that is the length that I want it to be so by telling the chair to the side, when I put it out, I see That the length that this comes to is the length that I want to see towards the front as well. So we're just looking at the length that we've created in the back is going to be the right length that we want to see towards the front. So once we're happy with that, we're going to lift all the hair back up again and we're going to be cutting in what we call the weight line. So this is where the heaviest point of the graduation is going to be. So. Thank you. So much for tuning in guys, as always try and let us know where you're from so we're you're tuning in from in the world, and if you have any questions, we'd be really happy with love to answer them. So if you have any questions, feel free to ask us and my man, my main man, James yeah, who's, gon na ask you all the questions that you have for me cool. I just want to say a quick hi to Maria and Robert myself for tuning in good question, Michael yeah, so why we decided to do it this way. Is it because of the hair texture, or is it just to show different technique? No essentially, the reason why I've started like this is just do the white line. First, it's the easiest way to create that really solid shape in the back, so a lot of hairdressers. What they do is they come in and they do it like this vertical. First and then they turn around as they work so, instead of going vertically and the next section exactly the thing about that, is it's very nice for having that curvature. But the problem is you don't always get a very, very clean shape? You don't always see the wave line very clear in the haircut, so by doing it this way by doing the top section first, what you're seeing is you've seen the weight line being built already, as you work, and that's just going to allow me to have a Really nice shape so it's nice and safe yeah, so you've got that really strong shape and then all you have to do is connect the underneath. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to do a little measuring just to make sure that what I find is the same on both sides. So the way I do this is, I pull my comb and I measure first on one side and then I pull my came out and I measure it on the second side, and so, if I'm happy with that, I can move on. I feel like it's slightly longer on this side, which is why we always measure first and I'm just going to come back in and refine it. We'Ve got a lot of people from the UK tuning in people from the US, from Trinidad from South Africa and for tuning guys of use. You like to see this like and share the video, be great and also a quick question already, which is great Michelle thanks for the question, so are you keeping it square or you rather be it? So essentially, this is actually going to end up being a triangular shape. So the reason why we call it the triangle shape is because it goes shorter in the back and it ends up being longer in the front now any time when you pick up the head and you see that they're pulling the hair slightly more back, it means That you're creating something with more length towards the front. So essentially this is going to end up being a triangle shape because we're pulling the hair slightly back as we're working. But that's a very nice question. So thank you so much. I just want to give a quick shout out to Andrew from scar. We went last year and it's war that started in k-town. It'S Andrews birthday today, so happy birthday, big lots of all the costumes that I've prepared and all the team at scar as well. So, just to recap: what we've done so far for those of you that are just tuning in we're doing a nice little box, while we lifted all the hair up from the wave light. So my sectioning that I took was very important if I wanted to make this a heavier graduation. I take my section lower and if I wanted to make this a flatter graduation, a higher graduation, I would take my section higher. So the reason why I put my section here was because I wanted to have quite a low graduation, so once we've completed that and we've got our weight line from the back by pulling everything out horizontally. What I'm doing after that is I'm going to connect it with vertical sections, so the way that we do this is we just take vertical sections from top to bottom. We move the hair away on either side and we're just going to take a nice vertical section. As we work and we're going to connect the top with the bottom, so the first one this will de and find it no because there's obviously different types of triangular, there's very, very triangle and there's a little bit triangle and because we're going to end up with Its slightly triangle, so you've got to think of the left at the front if it sits here, it's going to be longer than the bit that we've started in the back. So if you see the length of the front is longer and the back is going to be shorter, so that's why we would call it a triangle now. Triangle doesn't mean that it has to be very big difference between the front and back just a little bit of difference between the front of the back would be what I would call a triangle shape, so it really does depend on what type of triangle you're doing Now, if you wanted something a really pronounced, really strong triangle, you know better off to pull all the hair back, but because I worked around my section, I ended up having what we call a very soft triangle, so it's just a little bit of try. Okay, I know, as always guys whenever I answer your questions, if you feel like I haven't answered it properly or it doesn't quite make sense. Just let us know and I'd be more than happy to go over everything for you as well beautiful. So what we're doing in this last section is we're putting everything further back and we're connecting the top of that weight line down to the underneath, so we're creating this lovely little bit of fitted graduation through the bottom, where we've pulled it out vertically, we've created our Weight line through the top and we've just come through an app and connected everything vertically as well. So once I've done well, so I'm just going to spin around and I'm going to start to do the second side for you as well. So, just to recap, for those of you that are destroying you, we just pulled their hair up. We cut a vertical section from the top first we're just going to comb the hair down and we're going to be connecting the second side now beautiful. So when working this way, yeah with mixing our horizontal sections and verticals there happens, do you find that confusing? Oh no. I find that really really easy in my mind, because the way that we think about things our slave is, we think about anything that comes across horizontally as your shape. So a few moves across this way. This would be what we call shape and if you move on the vertical it's what we call our technique. So in this case we're talking about graduation and we're talking about a triangle shape, so triangle shape those sugar in the back and inside the longer. In the front, and what we talked about graduation is something that's shorter at the bottom and ends like the longer at top. So, by working horizontally I created my shape and then now what I'm doing with vertical sections is I'm connecting through what I would like to call my technique. So I hope that answers your question, but for me definitely through something horizontal first to create my shape and then coming back vertically and creating my technique makes things a lot clearer for me in my mind, when I work well so for those of you that are Just tuning in just a quick recap, as I'm finishing the bottom section, we lifted the hair up, we cut in our weight line first, all the way through the top, and then we've come through afterwards with these lovely vertical sections and we've just connected through the graduation. To the bottom, so we just lifted the hair up, brought it in and connected through some graduation in the bottom as well, and what we'll do is we'll be just gently refining it so my way of refining this is not taking horizontal sections. The reason why I do this is because I took the vertical sections I now have to cross-check horizontally, so I'm just going to move the hair away, I'm going to be picking up a tiny bit of hair and I'm going to be checking from one side to The other that it's the same on both side, so I'm not looking at the hair from the top to the bottom. I'M not looking at my graduation at the moment, I'm just looking horizontally to make sure my technique is clean, so working through just lifting the hair up and making sure that it's the same from left to right. So with your elevation yeah. Of course, if you, if you try to over elevate now more than what you were done, when you ticular vertical sections, you would be then layering in so it's very important to make sure that your sections and your elevation is the same. So what I mean is that when I take this, I'm bringing the head down now and I'm just checking it across horizontally. I'M not lifting the hair very high up, because then I would be layering it or changing my technique, which I'm not interested in doing I'm just interested in cleaning up my shape at the moment. So you can see that I'm actually taking sections. So I'm moving the hair away with my comb, so I'm taking them nice and clean to the other side. So you guys can see again what we're doing so again, you're just moving the hair away. So you take a nice little section. You bring your fingers in and you're checking from left to right that it's all clean, so moving the hair away, putting the comb in and just pulling out a section and just making sure from left to right that everything's, clean testily you've got a comfortable Jamie lots Of their color, oh so we have a DIY hair dresser, which is always great Casper, did her hair color herself. So we have a hair dresser in training at the moment, but that's always nice, so guys careful. She might take a job one day beautiful. So for those of you that are just cheating, I'm just going to do a very, very, very quick recap for you and then we're going to move on to the second part of the haircut. What we did was we pulled the hair up horizontally. We cut our graduation and then we connected through with vertical sections. So once we've done, the underneath and they've got a nice base line. We'Re now going to work with our next section, which is going to become horizontal. So this section just works around the head. In the mass horizontal section - and we've already got our graduation from underneath, and so we just have to connect it in that the place that most hairdressers go wrong here. Is they go too short on the side, and this is the length that you have in the front, so you want to be very careful that you're not getting too short here. So what we do is we start on the side, actually, which is the the point that you might make a mistake so by combing, the hair down and starting from this corner, you're being a lot more safe with the length that you can end up with? Is the length that you want? Okay, so we're just working through horizontally just connecting sections in from the back the shelving or scissors? So these are a Osaka scissors, the very good scissors they're, actually very reasonably priced as well, and they're, really nice and sharp. So we love using them, so yeah they're your soccer scissors, so yeah. So normally what I would say is you keep the head upright, but just so you guys can see a little bit better and MJ doesn't kick me and MJ's behind the camera by the way. If you're wondering who's going to kick me, we just make sure that the heads, maybe a little bit tilted more down than I would normally have just to make sure that everyone at home can see, and I don't get kicked, which is always a good thing. To start with, so once we've done that second one, you can see the building really nicely. You could see the beauty of starting horizontally, where we've really got a very strong shape. So I always say that working more horizontally is going to allow you to see your shape better. So I'm just going to say that again, because I think it's a really important point. When working with horizontal sections, you can see your shape better. So what we're doing is we're connecting these sections horizontally and we're just seeing the length that we have in the corner here, which is the length that we're going to have towards the front, and we make sure we're very low at this point. So we really want to build that graduation because we want to have longer lengths towards the front combing the hair down and then connecting in the shape. So the amount of elevation I'm going to use means how high the graduation is going to go and because I don't really want to create very high graduation in this, I'm just taking it quite low. Now you always have a chance of getting some kind of weight lines at this point. So what I like to do is I like to actually come through horizontally and then cross-check vertically to get rid of anyway. So I'm just gon na move this over as well and just beautiful. So what we want to do now is we want to start again from the corner and work our way up so they're pulling the hair down and we're coming through and we're creating our length towards the front there and then we're going to come back and crash. So you can see the angle of my fingers moves towards this point, so it's very important when you're doing this, if your fingers are not pointing away your fingers are pointing towards the center so by starting low moving your fingers towards the center. So, essentially your fingers or what's creating the shape in the back now, okay, so I think there is just when they've just tuned in you're singing about the dark apps and the rivers just really ready, yeah somewhere, and so the beautiful model of ours Kester. So hide everyone kissed, her Hester has is actually a hairdresser in training. It seems and she's been doing her own color, so I think she's done an almighty, brilliant job but from home, but you know, obviously it's a bit hard for him to see in the back. So there are some little patches here in there, so we just have to say, welcome to Cara and I heard justice doing a little bit of training, not quite qualified. Yet this is a pyrex. Why not looks a bit like that? They had dresses version of joined evidence, all right, beautiful so again we're just taking horizontal sections, building our shape and guys. You know, obviously thank you so much for tuning in. As always. If you have any questions about this haircut or any haircut, you know please. Let me know we'd love to answer questions. We always love answering all your technical questions, so if you have any just throw them at me, and James will be happy enough to ask you with your steps as well as the size of the search is very different. Does it change any other person? Yeah size of section is very important when you think about how much thickness the hair is. So if there is really really thick, you want to do something that is maybe smaller section, so you think it has smaller sections and if there has really fine, you want to take maybe bigger sections. So it's very important about seeing your guideline. I think that's a key point in all. This is seeing your guideline. So if your section is too big - and you can't see your guideline, then that's potentially quite wrong. So for us, it's very important so that you can see work of guideline is to really make sure the sections are small enough to see your guideline. So that's, I think, a really important. So may you always have to be able to see your guideline. Okay, the other thing in everything, so a guideline is all all important thing: it's like the hairdresser's ten commandments. Thou shalt never lose that guideline. I think it's a good one to say so. I'Ve done enough now to really kind of see what we're doing here. So it's a lovely little box. While we've worked through that horizontal section, we've come through and connected it, but it's a little bit heavy. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to work through my sections now vertically again, so I'm just going to check that graduation through so always make sure that there has nicely wet when you work that definitely the water sprays are best friends. But you know anything where the hair is more wet is going to allow you to have more control and so by making sure the section is nice and wet we're going to make sure it has a lot of control. So, what's the purpose for us today, so the purpose for cross-checking is essentially to make sure that you're doing it right. So one thing to say is that if you cross check you're just checking to make sure that what you're doing up to now is nice and balanced, is nice and blended, and so what you're doing is you're just having a look at there's. No way that when you do things for the first time in life, they're always going to be correct, you always need to just do a little bit of checking to make sure that where you're going is right, and so that's what we're doing when we're cross-checking we're Just making sure that what we're doing is good so because we work through horizontally with our sections, we're just coming back vertically and making sure that that technique is beautiful. So what we're looking at is we're looking at the graduation at this point to make sure it's not too heavy and everything blends nicely so taking quite big sections is very important as well. So you know if you've taken really really little sections when you're doing your initial shape, it's nice to take slightly bigger sections to check your graduation, because what you're trying to do is you're trying make sure everything blends. So, just by doing that, it's a little bit more blended at the moment for our graduation. Thank you so much. What determines the where you place the way? So it's all about the left at the front, because, obviously, when we're building the graduation, we've got to think about where the length is going to be at the front, and Castro said she wanted it towards the mouth. So what we said was we knew that whether graduation was going to have to be quite below in order for us to connect that point to the mouth, and so what I did was by spoiling my graduation quite lower. It means that I'm not going to go too high in the front and that's very important. Obviously, the men that we're going to end up with at the front has to be correct, see the division. He learned how to say my name, it's quite impressive. Actually, it's not amazing, and then I'm James 8 is on the cutting director today and behind this MJ is the style director. So we saw, as as James said, I was from slate higher education. Obviously we're tagged in the video, so if you do want to check us out, you can just click on that and then say her education, we'll take it into our Facebook page where you can see all about crazy haircuts and our crazy videos. So what we've done now is we've done just a very, very rough cross-check, so we're just looking to make sure that that shape we've got is beautiful. Now I will check the tech, our graduation sitting nice and we can move on with our sections. So those are just tuning in I'll, explain to you how we've done this we've started with the section which works horizontally from left to right. We lift it up there section and we cut our first section horizontally. We then came back in and connected vertically after that. We took horizontal sections around the head and connected our graduation as we worked up the head each time until we got to the point where we are now. After that we came vertically and we crushed checked each section working through. So now I'm happy and we can move on to the next part of our graduation. So this part is really important because it's actually going to start to incorporate to the front so the length that we're going to have at the front. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a section which curves around the head and incorporates the length, or at least incorporates a bit of length that we're going to start coming from the front. What I will essentially do so the angle is a triangle section: I'm trying to get the right angle, so the angle comes higher in the back and ends up being longer in the front. So if you can see that the section as it curves around goes from higher on the back and it goes to the lower in the front, this is going to really push us. So as humans, we have tendencies to do things, and one of the tendencies we have is that when we have a section, our fingers go below it when were working horizontally, and so placing the section from higher to lower is going to encourage our fingers to go From higher to lower as well, and so what we're doing is we're almost encouraging ourselves to do the right type of shape from the sectioning? We have another great way that I like to explain. It is like when you get a tattoo when you get a tattoo. You really hope that the two artists is going to actually draw the tattoo before they pierce it onto your body and so by doing that they are mapping out the tattoo before they commit and in the same way, what I'm doing is when I'm taking my sections. I'M actually looking at the angle and I'm gon na, follow that angle. So it's like an ability for me to draw it before I commit with my hands. So we've put in a little bit of joint code today, which is just a bit of a leave-in conditioner that they use and that's just going to help me cuz. Obviously, clusters done an amazing job, but it is a little bit dry and so putting in a little bit of leaving conditioners just allowing me to get that comb through it. A little bit easier as well, and I work through to the front always find that often is the balance yeah. So do you have any tips yeah, so definitely so for the balance. What I do is the easiest thing that I do is I clip away the front on either side. So what you can see that I'm doing here is I'm separating the front from each side, I'm separating the front from each side. So what I'm doing there, as you can see, is at the front. There was no guideline here and so by taking away the front, I'm taking away the bit that there's no guideline for balance, and so now what I'm going to do is by doing the back. First, I'm going to see a really strong guideline that I'm going to follow towards the front, so to recap that what I've done is I've separated the back from the front I'm going to cut the back in first. So I see my I see my graduation and then I'm going to come in and connect the front when I can see it better. So where do I start, I'm actually going to start at the corner, because what happens a lot of times when you see how addresses do this is when they start at the back. They end up going forwards and they end up too high on the front, and we don't want to end up too high because it's going to make the haircut too short in the front so by starting at the corner. At the back. We'Re going to allow ourselves to make sure we're low and we have more length in the front. So the higher you go, the shorter the haircuts going to be in the front, the lower you go, the longer it's going to be at the front. So it's really important to start this haircut at this point from the corner at the back, so you know that the length you're reaching to is correct when you finish so, if that makes sense, guys give it a thumbs up, let me know that it'll make sense. Yeah please like and share the video. If you have any questions, please ask so you can see now that we've styled from the corner at the back with working our way around the head as we go and we're connecting in that shape and that graduation and so by doing the back first, it's going To allow us to see better what we're doing when we get to the front. So if you guys can see that beautiful angle, we've got already it's gon na just continue towards the front. What about you guys? What do you do? You tend to sit down, they've hired you to stand up for the client I danced last night, and so now what we're going to be doing is we're going to do the same. On the second side, we're going to be working through the bottom of the corner and then working towards the back, and so we're just pulling it down creating our length in the back. So you can see the leg that we have towards the front and we're just going to be connecting through as we work, and so you can see by doing the back. It'S going to be a lot easier when we go and connect towards the front. Now you really start to see that shape coming in and you start to see the limb coming in as well. So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take a moment before we do the front, because we spoke about balance. I want to make sure that it's the same on both sides, because the back on both sides is going to be my guideline towards the front. So it's very important for me that these two lengths of the same so I can have the same length when I get towards the front. So what I'm going to be doing is I'm just going to be having a feel with my fingers? I'M just going to be measuring it against the skin, I'm going to be feeling if it's the same on both sides. I feel like it's, maybe a little be no longer on this side. So what I'm gon na do is I'm just gon na pull the head down and I'm gon na cut a little bit of it off and I'm gon na come back and I'm gon na check that the length is the same on both sides. You know I used to be afraid to cross check my work, especially in front of people watching, but what you learn is that actually, it's better to show people that we all have to cross check our work and we all have to have a little look at What we're doing, especially at these points, when we're about to do the legs towards the front, to make sure that both sides, so I'm gon na, have corporate define I'm just gon na lift this away. She does better and we're going to be using this point at the front to connect a little bit. We'Re gon na be connecting the front. So we have the length in the back and we have the length that we want to create in the front. So now my angle is very easy to see because I have a guide line from the front of the mouth and I have the length at the back. So essentially, what we're doing is we're connecting the dots from the front to the back okay. So what you? Looking at in terms of the bone structure and the face and the custard space where you were pointing the lines, do ya, Cusco has a beautiful face, so it made my life a lot easier. We could do a lot of different things, but one thing that Castro said to me was that you know she feels she's a performer in an artist. You see she feels like it's her identity to have a bob, alright yeah see so so very much. Actually, I didn't have to think about what I was going to do. Custer came in with a very strong opinion about what she wanted, and so that made it my life a lot easier as well, because it worked for her and so what we did was we went with what she said and we decided that the bob was going To be a very strong limb, because, obviously she's a strong character and I'm a strong bob haircut suits it, especially it's part of a part of her image. So we just worked on that one a lot. We agreed that the length is going to be the mouth, because it's a really strong length to have as well, and so that's gon na. Be it's going to be very punchy that you're going to see at the end where it just sits beautifully and that's what allows a little box of you know a box bob can't really be any higher than that, whether sorry, I can't really be any lower than That my bad, so it can't really be any lower than that because you have to have the graduation. So what I'm doing is I'm connecting the left at the front to the left at the back, and so you can see by doing the back first. It just allowed me to have a much stronger guideline towards the front as well. Christian is basically using lots of tension yeah. I use quite a lot of tension, especially this hair, it's very bleached, so it really wants to not blend my sleep. It wants to snap out a lot and so by using more tension, it's just going to make everything blend better. So tension is what allows you to have a more clean blend when they're doing graduation. So for me we were doing a graduation, it's nice, to have a lot of tension because it's going to allow you to create something without the weight lines in it you're. Obviously, a lot of hairdressers have this problem of weight lines. You know he's kind of like stepping bits when they do graduation and so we're trying to avoid that, but actually, with this kind of haircut I quite like it when it starts out as well, which so hopefully, with this very low, very heavy graduation we've got it's Going to stack out a lot as well, and so that's going to really be something: that's quite beautiful in this haircut, it's a bit. What does that fit that, like white orange bulb, that kind of sticks out a lot? So that's something that's actually kind of work in our favor. It'S going to be, I guess we're going quite a lot, a little like Leon. You have to take the hair texture to consideration and make the rest of that. Well. Definitely because you know I feel like it's, not nice really work against the hair, because you know you might be able to blow-dry it a lot and straighten it a lot and it looks good, but you know it ended there if a model of the client has To go home and live with it as well. So I think that's why it's really important to go for something that you know, even if you want to go for that sleek. Look because you want to iron it that it's going to look good when they leave it natural and that's why I personally really like these from clean haircuts, because, even if you wear the messy, they still look really good. They look like you did them with intention and I think that's something that's really important when they're designing haircuts that it looks like it's what you wanted to do. If that makes sense, it looks like that. You really want to create that haircut for that individual, and so what you can see is we've taken our sections now from around the hole of the head, so now we've got the mask would have had to work with that's left out and now I have a Guideline for the whole haircut and we know what we're going to do is we started from the back behind the ear before, because we have no guideline and then we connected the front. So what I'm going to do now is to connect the front and I'm going to start straight from the front, because we have our guide line now. So now that I already have my guide line, I'm just going to start from the front and all the way to the back, so we're just connecting through the back and the front. So you can see that what I'm doing is I'm working for us on today and I'm actually not curling the hair down. So I'm seeing my shape building beautifully as we're working through. So that's something that I used to do. It'S always cleaned it down to see how my techniques going to see how my graduation is going, but now what I tend to do is I try and leave the hair sticking out. So I can see my elevation as I work. So that's something that's really important. Is seeing that elevation as you work, I think a lot of people say different things about how to allow for the data so my take on that is well. First of all, what we're doing is we're doing graduation. So what that means is it means that actually, we don't care about that as much, because we're lifting it out away from the ear already so by putting it over the ear. We don't have to worry. We'Re gon na have graduation that we're going to kind of take that out afterwards, but when they're doing a line. What I like to do is I like to comb it over the ear, so we're cuddling it up and over the ear, and then I like to come and put it down and without tension, and I hold it very gently. I think when you tap it all these things, you end up not having a very clean lines to providing hold it, and you don't pull too much attention. It allows you to avoid having anything wrong with the ear, so I'm never tap, and then that I have a problem, but something else I always do is I always keep the head upright when I do a line. So when I'm doing my outline, I'm always keeping the head upright, I feel like this allows me to see my shape better when I work okay. So what we're doing now is we've worked from the front to the back, I'm now just coming back and working from the back towards the front. I think a lot of hair does ascared working horizontally because of what you said about the steps. What what you have to do is you have to cross-check so the one good thing about it? Is you see your shape very strong, so now we see this beautiful shape coming in this very, very strong shape, but if you're worried about it being too steady, then you can always come back and crushed it. But the truth is when you do something so steep like what we're doing now, it's always going to have that stacked field. So it's always going to feel like it sticks out a lot and that's kind of part of the design of this haircut is actually getting something that sticks out quite a lot. But if you want to slim up, you have to change the angle. So we see here the angle that we have. If you want, you can always lift up the angle to make it less steep. Basically, so if you make it less steep, you avoid it. But if you have a graduation that comes as steep and as heavy as what we have now, you're definitely likely to end up getting weight lines, at least not wetlands, but something that looks like it sticks out a lot, but that's okay. I actually quite liked it. Looking like that, looking very strong in heaven you other colors asked: do you always do that when your fingers? No, I would do a line either on the skin, so I would hold the hair onto the skin and I would cut with my scissors on the skin. I could do a line with the back of the colon. I could do a line in the Curan and I could do a line in my fingers. Now. The difference is when you put a little fingers, you get a lot of tension, so you might get quite a bit of graduation, but we get a lot of control. So if you get a very clean line, if you use the back of the comb again, you get a lot of tension, but not as much as your fingers and it's again holds it very strong. If you use the con you're going to get less tension, so you're going to get less graduation, but you might not get as clean a line and then, if you do hold it in your fingers, you're actually likely to create a graduation. Because if you think about it, you're already lifting the hair away from the roots and therefore you're already elevating, which is what creates the graduation. So when you're working your fingers, you might get quite a clean line in terms of the shape, but you're really likely to get graduation, so you have to be careful of that and possibly cut it out. Thank you so much for the question. Thank you yeah. So, as always guys, if you like the answer, give us a thumbs up, if it doesn't make sense, let us know go over it again. So what I'm doing now is I'm just cross-checking vertically just to make sure that blend of that graduation sits nicely. So we work through horizontally and we did what we call our shape and now which is coming through vertically and checking what we caught our technique. So we're just checking the graduation to make sure it's nice, so we're just skimming the top of this. Just to make sure everything blends better, would you check vertically after every after say d3 after quite a few, because what happens is if you cross check every time you do it. What you're going to find is, instead of having a really nice flow, you're going to have a bit of a gap between each section, so the whole point of checking vertically is to check a few sections. What I mean by this is, if you do one two three sections horizontally you're coming in your check in three sections vertically, so there's no point in doing one checking one checking one checking because you're not going to blend the three together. So the whole point is you: do one through three sections horizontally and then you check those three and you blend the three together to make sure that their shape is nice, the first so just coming through again and checking that last bit of graduation blended and then The last one now always for safety. What I do is when I check that last section, I rarely put it back so that we're not cutting the length in the front, and that gives us a little bit of safety. So we've cut the first side and we've just checked the graduation there. What I'm going to do is I'm going to check the second side and then we're going to continue working horizontally until there's no hair left so again be cutting the hair away and guys. You know the secret of this haircut was the beginning. Was our first section horizontally? So if you didn't catch it, please go back when the video is finished and just watched the first minute and you'll see how we created the first part of this haircut, which is the hardest part. So if you want to know the secret to this haircut when the video is finished, just go back and watch the first minute and it's going to show you the secrets of doing this haircut properly. Just tell us a little bit about staples yeah yeah. Of course, slate is a international hair education company. So what we teach is hair education, but we teach advanced, hair Education. So all of the courses that we offer offer experienced qualified spires who want to advance their technique and the ideas are being able to teach people how to become masters of the art of hairdressing and really creating their vision. So I felt in my business partner felt that hairdressers are incredibly creative, but sometimes we always haven't had the best education which allows us to create the ideas we have in our head. So I found that a lot of have amazing ideas, but they don't have 100 % how to make them a reality, and so our courses, we hope, will give people that ability to be able to create any vision they have in hair. And so our motto is about allowing you to create your vision so giving you the techniques. So you can create your vision in hair and that's essentially what we are, or just an education company based in London, trying to make people's very lives and education better. So last section out towards the front just busting it to make sure it blends and it's nice and clean, and what we're going to do is we're going to continue now with that technique horizontally towards the top. So if you want to just so we're just taking these curved sections again, so the section that I'm taking at the top here just a little bit cluster. So the section that I'm taking here, which occurs around the top, is mirroring the graduation that we've got underneath. So it's really important for us that what we want to see is we want to see that graduation. They have here. That'S curving around mirrors the section that we have at the top remember the sections are like drawing our tattoo before we commit. So it's the same way we're drawing our haircut with our sections before we're putting the scissors in, and so you can take a section ten times, but you cannot cut the hair ten times because there'll be nothing left. So it's a good opportunity for you to practice. The shape that you're going to create before you commit, and so I always like to take a section of both sides out, so I can have a really clean balance when I work so we're doing both sides, I'm going to make sure the balance is correct. With myself and I could follow my sections and my haircut will have balance after that, so so the products we were using today is Jericho. It'S what we have here in the salon, its panel and Slingsby, and we just want to give a big shout out to standard in Slingsby. They work with us in London and we host our classes here, and we also do our own lives here. So the big shout out to the team that styled and slings me that have allowed us to take over their space on many occasions and, of course, have occurred generally absolutely beautiful spaces over what occasion. So the beauty of this now is, you can see. We have a hair underneath, which is our graduation we've created and we have the new hair that's sitting over the top. So it's very important before you start to cut that you comb all the hair nicely now. Hair has to basically be ready for you before. You start so by combing the hair you're, just allowing all the hair to fall in its natural position and you're ready for it to cut so already. You can see the shape of the haircut before we even move in with our fingers and rather hair. So what I'm doing is I'm pulling the hair out in the graduated angle, so I'm lifting the hair I'm getting the length towards the front that I'm looking for and the secret to having consistent elevation is this? So you see my fingers are here right. I have a certain amount of elevation. What I do is when I take my next section, is I actually comb it down and I don't move my fingers until I go and grab the next hair so by doing that, I'm actually keeping the elevation in the same place. So you see now I'm ready. I move in so you can see that the hair always maintains the same elevation as I work round, because what I'm doing is I'm keeping my fingers there and then I move the comb around and you can see that I'm always starting at the front. The reason I'm starting at the front is because it's safer to start at the front and then work back. So you know you have the right length at the front. If you start at the back - and you come this way, you're likely to go to short or too high so by working from the front towards the back you're, making sure that the length you want to create is correct. So now, when I do the second side, I'm going to do the same thing, I'm going to be working from the front towards the back, so guys will tell us later from those people tuned in which is great from Yorkshire. Are you doing any questions? Please ask texts time I remember when, when I was training is so much harder to find education like this. It'S just free to free platforms, so make the most of that. I think it's really important. You guys get into it and then you kind of like I'm sure the video is super grateful so like we do innovation here, yeah they use slightly higher than the previous. So if you imagine what graduation is something those shoulder at the bottom and it ends up going longer as you get towards the top, and so what you have to do is every time you take a section if you pulled it all down to the same place. It would end up going very heavy, so what you have to do is each time you work, you have to pull a little bit higher, so you're creating the graduation going up. So again, if you pulled everything down to the bottom, it would just go heavy at the top. So if you wanted to have consistent elevation or consistent lifting you have to pull a little bit higher each time in order to get that shape. That you're. After from that's religion, diversity to make sure - and then you come back obviously and check vertically to make sure you have the angle that you're looking for within the hair. So when you all kind of started out doing something like this, which is just meant to practice on a dull yeah, I mean so when we teach adversity, we always teach our classes on dolls, because we find it's the easiest way to practice the most important things When it comes to cutting hair - and that is your elevation, so when you elevate you're, either creating or one length without elevation or if you elevate a little bit of creating graduation or if the elevate a lot you're going to be layering it. So how highly pull the hair? So that's something you can practice when you're using a doll. Obviously, your sections are really important because they're going to push you to do one thing or another thing in hairdressing, so they're either going to push you to do something heavier or flatter. So it's very important to practice your sectioning, then you can also practice your over direction, which is what creates your shape. So if you put everything back, you're going to get mom something or triangle or if you put everything forwards, you're gon na get setting around and sort of a doll, you can really practice these important things, your over direction, your elevation, your sections and then, of course, One of the most important is your cutting angle and you actually cut the hair into serve. You know when we work horizontally our cutting angle. What that means is it means, besides their past, where London is Elisabetta sirens. So what we mean when we say you're cutting angle, is it just means that angle that you put the scissors into the hair when you're going to cover? So as an example? If I do this, I'm going to be cutting something triangles, so I'm going to be going longer than the front sugar in the back. So my cutting angle, this triangle - if I want it to be round, I'm going to be coming this way and going shorter on the front so longer in the back. So it's very important to angle that you put the scissors into the hair when you're cutting as well. So the point is that when you do on dolls, you can practice your elevation, your over direction, your cutting angle and your scissors and your sections, and so all the fundamentals are there for you to practice when you want to create a nice haircut, so we really Always even when we're practicing me and James, we always practice on those. It allows you to really create what you want and practice those key points of what make a haircut, so I've never seen for about 13 years or 14 years now, if I'm not mistaken, I think about 14 years I'm getting out of it yeah. So I've been very fortunate in my career. You know I worked in some great places. I used to work with Sassoon in London. I'Ve worked with some amazing hairdressers, so I feel very privileged we're privileged to be able to teach people around the world, I'm very privileged to be a part of the hair brain community. You know we do a live segment of free, higher education once a month, and so anyone who wants see us and learn from us to just tune in to have a brand or you know even watch the videos. If you go to our website, they will own that, so anyone who wants you can just go on our website at slant, hair, calm, so slate pad calm, and you can check out all the videos that we've done on hair brand until now. Well, all of them, but most of them are up there, so yeah guys just throw that slant, hair, calm and you can see a load of free education, videos from her buttons cool brilliant. So what I'm going to do now is I'm going to actually cross check after I do one more section. So, as I told you before, you don't want to cross check every single section you do you want to be able to cross check as you work. So I'm going to do this in one section actually, because her hair is quite leaking a little bit bleach, so there's kind of running out of hair as we get towards the top. So we just want to connect through the front now. So the coding that had a really nicely to the side and we're just going to lift the head up, we're going to connect and so do the lengths that we want to create in the front. So we're checking where there has falling towards the front. And then we're working towards the back so just attention to her. Thank you. We'Ve always got a spare. You know they regard at least one time beautiful so just connecting through the back, and what I'm going to do is I'm not going to pull the hair back at this point? I'M just going to comb it to the side where it falls naturally, and I'm going to let it be connected him afterwards. When I come through and I cross straight vertically - I'm going to be pulling their hair a little bit more back, and why is that? So? The point is that if we now pull the hair from the side, because if you look at the hair here, if you've got to think where does this hair fall? Naturally it falls on the side. And so, if we pulled it back and we cut it in the back when it falls to the side, it's going to be too short and we're going to get a hole. So we don't want that, and the truth is that what I'm actually going to do afterwards, anyway, cuz I'm going to slightly layer this just because a more modern finish and a much easier wearable finishes. They have a very, very soft layer in there, a very small layer and it's going to allow their hair to have a liberal movement and not be too when we finish: okay, yeah, that's pretty good, actually, yeah! Nice! Sorry back! I know a little bit of Greek. Somehow cypriot that said hello from Cyprus, yeah yeah, probably not what she said, but I understood yeah girls from Cyprus. Are they okay, not as a krysta, that you can use a flat brush or a brush? And why so? I am going to use a flat brush because I don't want to create any volume in this really and then we'll probably just tap it with the ions just to get a bit of a sleeker finish for you guys. So the reason why I'm not using a round brush is it has a tendency to actually make the hair stick out a little bit too much. So we just want to get something. That'S quite soft right now.