Short Layered Haircut Tutorial For Women - Cutting To Shape Using Blade And Scissors

Okay, so I wanted to show you just before I started to cook the hair, what we have prepped for you today and basically the reasoning behind why I've done this beforehand is that Chloe has a huge amount of hair, and I really wanted you guys to actually See what I've done first, so basically, what I've done is I've just taken a little undercut very, very small section right here and it just worked through here and then a diagonal line just to the back of the ear and by taking that short through there. What it's going to do is we're going to reduce that weight on that here. Back down, we've had a little bit more. I also did another guide, so let me show you the guide, so, as you can see, the section is a very repetitive section. We call it a teardrop, so it works from here works its way down and works its way and right around. So you've got this really nice teardrop exception. You can start in so many different ways, I'm a very, very visual hairdresser. So what I wanted to do was this morning. I wants to see where I was so. I basically took my first section through here. You'Ll see what I did was. I started to go really soft, with the blade to the top of the ear and then, as I went around the head, I started to create this like a little mullet but like still a blend, a connection, but it's very organic in its shape. So it works from here here and down, so you can start at the tip of the nose start to get there length and then work or work from the ear down and work around where we go a little crazy, all the time with the blade. Yes, it can be creative, but yet we always have to follow a line. So, as I said, the teardrop started here and it works its way down, and this is the next section we're working from so I'm going to start at the ear and I'm going to take out my section a little bit of elevation on this. So, as I can can actually see where my haircut was before, so that's important that we can see where we were before. So I'm always following a guide in there right through to down there and there's a little bit of potion. I'D like mixed in a water. Also helps the canvas of the hair to have a little bit more condition, and now, if you can see the angle of the blade and I'm gon na, go from just working that condition or shake them see, this is working for Sebastian. I almost when I'm having a consultation or whether I'm doing something creative, I think of something in Reverse. First, so I almost see the image and then I try and break it down in my head or a visually, try and see it and then from that I'll go okay. So how would that actually work? So what is the process? What do I need to use? What products gon na help me get there, so everything that I do is very sort of like almost done in Reverse. It'S like a reverse consultation. Somebody brings in a picture from Pinterest and you see this picture and you go well that really helps. But what's the process, so how do I attack the hair? So is it like the tool I'm gon na use on the type of texture of hair? It is what's the technique that I'm going to use. What'S the sectioning pattern and I'm gon na use. So I'm very visual always in brings me to towards the haircut. I think. Basically, we all have to learn that you know that we also have to learn that process and knowing that that doesn't work, or that was a failure. Or sometimes we don't know what tool is the best tool to use on the type of hair that you're going to use? I think it's important for somebody young copy copy copy copy. So if you like this haircut today and you see a picture of this haircut copy it, I copied for so many many years, because it taught me and how I could make it my own. You learn, you made the mistakes as you went along, but by having something to copy it was fantastic or if I could watch a video, then it was videos you could watch and - and I learned just basically from making mistakes, so it trains your eye, it trains. You how to look at something like shape and balance. It makes you look at sort of things that why does it sit better on the head shape, and so many young people are in here, so they never leave going on that, sometimes so important to step back and actually look at something from a visual so intensified. Their section their tension, their angle, whereas you know, as we get older if they just become the norm, but we still have to step back. We still have to step back and really look at what we're doing, and you know looking at what we're doing to the hair and would be to always put hair with a white background or a white wall in your house and then to be able to step Back and have a look at things that you're going, it is an art form. What type of reason work. What do you call oohed lee and it's it's a really big part of Sebastian's education? Is that, like we still follow a lot of guidelines, we don't just go in willy-nilly, we don't go like where we we just really cut to shape by just reducing the weight and it's being quite aggressive. That'S why I explained about the teardrop section and also how we actually use the blade. The blade is something that, if, if you're not using it on the surface of the hair and you're, not actually cutting onto the surface of the hair, and the angle is wrong, it can be very aggressive and it can tear the hair. But if I take a section and just to show you here, come around you'll see from my shortest point. When I lay the blade on, I always lay the blade on super super flat like that. So then it's the pressure of that blade that will run down the head. I can see my guide underneath I can do this quite quick, but you can see that the hair is actually being caught instead of being torn. So it's very much about a combination of the hands, not being so stiff the angle of the blade and the pressure. So it's all about just that smooth flow of the hand working on the hair. You should really feel a very smooth cutting field. If you ask Chloe Chloe, can you feel that in your hair, is there any tearing sensation or anything like that, so the client will tell you straight away. I mean how many clients have said to you. I never want a razor being used in my head again. You know was a horrible sensation. I hated the way my hair was when it grew out. Can I just tell you you know: hair brains sell a lot of feather blades they're the biggest hardest thing right now, but it's how they're used so it's yeah, it's great. I just like to talk a little bit about this haircut as well. It was telling the guys it's being very much inspired by Kovac in the sense of since we've opened the song. We'Ve had a lot of hair coming back in that has grown that, but it's grown up in a nice way, so shorter hair has grown out and it has these sort of lighter sort of a lighter texture on the ends. Like you, you know it's almost like: it needs a trim which that you don't want to trim and make it too solid. So this haircut is going to be cut from down to dry. So it's very much a organic haircut that Chloe can actually wash and go, and I think it's very in these times that were in that were leaving something and she's even said that I, like the softer hair, that's grown out, and I've really become attracted to this. And I've been working in the salon now for over three and a half weeks and I'm doing a lot more softer haircuts a little bit more organic in the shape to change my hair. She was thinking of a very strong boys, weren't you, you were thinking of something where she really wanted to go intense, and then I said well, why don't we just do something. That'S like using the blades in its best potential would be something that sort of is super soft, very light through those ends, but yet it's gon na have strength. So again, I'm starting exactly where I was. The teardrop now has just moved and we're not layering the hair too much or anything like that. We'Re really just doing the perimeter so again same angle, and we start just to go through there say: why are you choosing to cut everything at such a low elevation? So the lower elevation helps when you're, using the blade, you're arts. So basically, sometimes if I come out here like so and I start to work, it can work in my advantage, but sometimes it can reduce a little bit too much weight and I end up taking too much bulk out. So when I like, so I'm also working on the lower elevation, so I'm working in the natural fall. So I'm visually looking at what I want to create. But when you work with a lower elevation, the blade actually cooked through the hair just that little bit easier and also I can actually see how much weight I want to take out. I can feel it more so the higher the elevation, the more weight comes away because the pressure is now on the top. When it's down like this, you can actually apply the weight, you know or apply the pressure. So it's doing two things. It'S basically letting me see the shape. If I just take that little bit way now, you can see I'm actually, I call it cutting to shape, but I'm basically cutting the hair into the way it falls and, as I said it's it's something like this haircut is very organic. It'S the same. You know you could say: oh that's over direct everything here. Oh, why not. Why just do this? Take it into its natural fall. I personally want some advantages: cutting in natural fall that is kind of easier to style, yep, yep, yeah, absolutely yeah exactly, and I think you know I know you Gerard you don't like to blow dry hair. What'S your over covered with your $ 5,000 heads, but also you have people like clients like Chloe here, Chloe, probably doesn't even own a blow dryer. So, like the difference about when you cook, with you know in the natural fall or like you are literally cutting through the way exactly what you see is what you get exactly that so I'm just working through even that nice thing. So we can just let that sit. Yeah, it's been going great. We were very, very busy. We were just told on the Friday that we can open on the Monday and then, as a trying day, then we had the protests on the Friday night, which scared us a little bit. So we had to board up the salon, but we got through it. Fine and to be totally honest with you, clients were so desperate for haircuts, they wanted to come in the back door and we were very fortunate. We have got a back door, so we could actually sort of bring them in and we were manic for those three and a half weeks. I have to say it was it's very hard to get used to the masks. It gets really really warm yeah. So we've got the a/c pumped, obviously our clients have to wear masks also, and what you do find is that the clients have so. This is the first time in the Cylons have had to wear a mask for four hours. So even there for you, so the clients going. Would you mind if I stepped outside? I just need to get some air because you forget that they haven't been anywhere either. So I think it's and for ourselves. I think it's important that we sort of just take that time, I've just to sort of go in and just sort of step outside for 5 or 10 minutes covert as well. I don't think I ever want to go back to that yeah. I really have to think about that as a hairdresser and go really. Why do I kill myself Thursdays when I can just do maybe an extra two on a Friday, so basically yeah we've given ourselves a little bit more time in the door. It'S a whole new process and I don't think it's going away Gerard. I think we're here for quite some time. I'M sure it's till we get a vaccine. That'S gon na be yeah we're going to be in this as well. I mean we were very fortunate. Well then, that's exactly exactly and we've we see the fallout. I mean we just see Sunset Boulevard here in West Hollywood. You think. Well, it's you know it's bulletproof. It'S not bulletproof. There must be six units, so it's very solid weight. I mean, as you said, there's really no time to sanitize. We know that the clean yeah - those are the kind of comments we want to say what you know our guests to go out and go and Yelp and talk about how you know they felt so safe and I think that's going to help us get back into Business I've been guest, say to us, they say wow, you know we feel really comfortable here. We feel really secure here I say: would you mind going onto Yelp and checking in there's a check-in? It doesn't asking them to go and actually make a comment or anything like that. Of course they can if they want. So I'm just my second section here, as you can see, I'm not I'm just gon na tell you that your friend German from Argentina is sending a big hug yeah. So basically, what we're doing here is we're, as I said, we're still working in the natural fall and we're working around the neck. Because, again you know you have to work with. What'S in the chair with you at the time, and if I go in and start to really cut Chloe's hair and it's gon na get big and she's a very young girl, she's, a very trendy girl. We don't want to have poofy here, and so what we have is just so simple again we can start all our guides are all here you can see everything is underneath so by taking small sections, it's so easy to be able to see everything that you've created Again, don't take too much hair into the hand we using a blade, just keep everything nice and clean so that when that rests on there and you've got that nice section, it starts to clip the hair straight away. This is what they call a short skin and so skimming hair does two things. It reduces the way in the length and but a short skin is really reducing less weight and just taking more length. If you want to elongate that stroke. Well then, you're gon na take more weight away. So if I wanted to fit it in a little bit more, I can just go a little bit higher, so you can see some of that top layer of that way dispersing, but by skimming the hair away. What you're doing is diffusing the line all around, but your job also reducing the weight, so we're gon na reduce some of the weight using the scissor, and I wanted to sort of say that that you know you can do this with a scissor as well. I'M not the guy, we just you know, only uses a blade, but the reason I use the blade is because of the person the person and the hair. You know, Chloe doesn't have a hair dryer she's, not the type of girl who styled her hair constantly. She likes a more grown out, organic feel so the blade and the hair texture is perfect for the blade like there's, not that many like. If you look, okay, just cuts the hair. Like perfectly so I don't use the blade on curly hair. Don'T use it on over compromised hair so little things like that. If there's anybody sort of you know a young assistant out there, you know choose the hair you're going to use it on. So, as you can have fun with it yourself, you don't want to have a bad experience for the client or you don't want to have a bad experience for yourself. I have two questions for you, Hampshire, because well to be honest. What I like to try and do is, with the holding and closer to to the hair, like that, I am inclined to do a little bit of turning with my hands. So with the angle, I feel that Mike, I know the pressure, so I can feel it. I'M closer to it when I'm out here. So if I take it out here, I feel I'm very far away and I can't feel the pressure I feel I'm a little disconnected once I come back in closer. Let me take that section little cleaner. When I come in closer, I feel much more connected to the hair and where I want to apply the pressure and then I can break my wrist a little bit and I can actually feel the pressure a little bit more. So it's more about actually feeling the pressure, because that's really how you take the weight away, yeah so yeah, it's all about for me. I suppose that your fingers get sensitive to the pressure and you can actually feel it cut the hair so either closer. I am to the hair, I can actually go in there and then just go. Sometimes I want to go in and eat a little lightness, so I just feel it's a little bit more sensitive. The teardrop is for me really really simple to do. I mean what do we want to do? We want to create something that works section here to shorter to longer, so if you think take in first participation, so everything works from this angles. It'S rail and it drops its way down. The section reflects that so that the heads now box over the heads turn. So if we take the round section and bring it down into the name, it's the same line. So it's almost like we're following putting the perimeter as if I was teaching. This is where you start and where you finish so basically I would have started here and I've worked my perimeter line. You can't get lost you're, not going to be one side shorter, one side longer because you've laid down so well. You know true coded the team. In Geneva, the team basically asked me when I start to work and prepare for the issues that we should have been doing. I'Ve actually seen everybody work on doll, heads and well. I can actually start to do the shoes on the doll heads first. Take the pictures send them to Geneva and if they gave me the green light and they liked well, then that's my preparation done for when we do shoot so and unlike every big brand, we we have to think of. Like you know, this is all gon na end and we're gon na start to shoot again. So we start to shoot again, hopefully in September, and we are concentrating on two shoots. We are getting right back into education and we've revamped the education system in Sebastian and we've looked at everything that we do like hero products like hero techniques. As you know, we mastered the blade. So, like 40 years, we've been using the blade. So we really want to sort of expose the techniques that we've created and because, as you know, the blade is super hot. At the moment, everybody wants to use the blade so yeah and we've been in this situation for so many years that why? Don'T we so that we're working on, and then we have a lot of really cool new products that have been we've been sitting on to sort of launch, but we haven't been able to so we're going to do a shoot for that too yeah. This there's some really really good stuff. To be honest: um there is one product that sort of is well, we have a few creative products and then we have a few amazing products that will help the clients so for the hairdresser there's a there's, a lotion. That'S all I can say that does two things, but it can bond the hair in the most incredible way so that I like that, I can talk about, which is absolutely amazing. I'M super excited about that and we're going to bring a little haircut collection that comes with that too, and then there is a real, a real styling revamp er and that I can't really talk about. But it's amazing styling products yeah, it's a strong styling, a conditioner, a mask. There is an that. A mist like there's this type of a mist that you can just basically spray in each of the hair. We just got ta know it super-heavy. What it will do is we'll just coat the hair, so you can use it on dry hair. You can use it on damp hair. You can use it as a coating tool, so yeah it's become because it was such a big seller. It has become. It smells wonderful, so again might if you can have a look at just what I'm doing here, because I'm now elongating the stroke just at the end. So we don't something. That'S super boxing. So if you can just see this section here and soon move Chloe's head, so you can see it's now fitting into the head. So by just taking my section, I'm from here now, I'm gon na start to elongate that stroke just to take the squareness out. So I'm just going in I'm just taking a little bit more weight out because, as I said, we don't want to have a super strong mullet that sort of sticks out. We still want this to sort of sit in a way that it's you know nice and organic. So with these together I think that's a finnish name, mama yeah yeah there we go it's just nice and soft, and then you just shake this out a little bit. So we get this really nice, but isn't it amazing? How sometimes gorillas netcode with hair can inspire you and it's been cool? Is it that you know that kind of wispy miss and flexibility around the edges, that kind of yeah? And it's even like see like these little bits, that sort of kick out like that, naturally, because you've just reduced that weight. You can just see that it almost looks like it's been it's grown. So let me just finish this side here. We need to sort of blend that in just a little bit more now not a colorist shade, but here it's a little bit like the haircuts. Even though people have had roots it sort of been nice and you can see that people have looked at it and I've sort of said well, maybe if it comes back, maybe we shouldn't go in and go crazy with the color again. Maybe we should just do something: that's a little bit softer, I'm sort of liking, the shadow, so you can actually see that people didn't get that crazy. The fact that the hair, especially the blondes when the roots started to grow out, they were sort of like in that shadow and that little bit more dimension in the hair. So I think that maybe we've sort of you know you've had a few that have taken hours to repair, but there's been a lot of them as well, where people are going. Maybe just do some baby lights, maybe just sort of put some darkness through it, so that if this happens again, I know everybody's if this happens again we're like. Oh, dear God, if this happens again, but you know, people are going for something that looks a little bit more natural, it's one of the other or else they're changing. So it's like no. I want sick of this color make it dark. I don't want to be blonde anymore, make it rich make it shiny. I'M over all this dryness get shade to cut this, I'm sick of my hair, you know so, but in general it's been great and I think you know what it's been it's just being so great to be back and actually doing here and we're. You know. Hairdressers are born to talk the talk and walk the walk and enjoy what we do. So I think it was really hard for a lot of hairdressers not to be in the salon. I mean I'm not in the salon all the time, but I really do love it when I'm here, it's it's it's what we do. You know it's what we do best so and I don't think I would be an educator for or be as creative. If I didn't do some work absolutely and also, I think that what happens with people that sort of aren't doing hair as much. I was fortunate that I was doing quite a lot of hair like you or Gerardo in Kovac, but you're what you actually would normally just take and just rip into, and then I think you know if I hadn't got those quick hands when I'm on shoots for Sebastian aren't thinking quick, it makes you think, quick, you know like you've, got maybe six clients in in a day and maybe you've got time, but maybe you have a client in and sometimes you really have to visually see it and then to get going. So it keeps your hands fast and it keeps your mind fast as well, so yeah I do about three or four days a week in the salon and I look absolutely low and then I had to find my own because I'm a little bit edgier. So in LA that was a little tricky to find people willing to lose there. No, but you know what I found them. It took me a little bit of time and there are people out there that, like to get like and you've been here for the other girl. If these are all clients in man, so like there's, definitely people that are willing to go that little step further or individual put it that way, and you can see that the blade is now gone. The feather blade is, is put away, and now we have the scissor. So again, this is very visual, so I'm just going to sort of get the hair ready for what I'm going to do with the scissor. It'S it's sort of it like a deep channel, cutting situation. Sorry, Chloe there we go, as I said, always good to get the hair prepared just make sure that everything is balanced. So I'm just going to soften that out there maybe spin it around, have a look at where you want to reduce that we, as I said this is a very very, very grown-up, look, so it's extremely sort of like inspired by Kovac. So it's really really soft. Those sections like so and forth. Why am i starting here because, usually on the round to stick out so just about an inch and a half down? I just want to go through and just slice out some pieces and I always start up where I think that weight is. Let'S take my hair as an example. I very fine hair on top, but the sides have that curl, so it always grows at first and I start to look like my dad. So it's take out some of the sections but keeping in mind that I'm putting everything in its natural form. So here just put that blade in and just slide it down. I just really like the scissor doing this because it cuts the hair and it just reduces that wave and I can really feel it in my hand. So it's just wood. You seen anything like you. Will you wouldn't see those channel marks and you know if you tried to look for them yeah and I suppose that's the thing you don't want to have like to go over the top too much. But now I can feel I'm on the rounding. So I can just go in and wait nearly going vertically down we're, not itching. So if we go to horizontal, you get too much of an etching where it's this way we just sort of move with the head and go down, so it's in turn it and go down. Do you feel that that gives the hair some direction as well? Actually, I do I do because I feel that, like with Chloe she's, not gon na wear a hair completely like this. What she's, gon na wear her hair is like basically very messy and she's gon na. Have it more sort of like this type of shape. It'S gon na be sort of just bang there and it. So what we don't want is that it's to get you mushroomy right, you pull this and it's a little what they call liposuction for the hair so but it could easily end up that excu heavy. So why just separating the hair you can go in with your hand. In this way, fine your hand go down, leave a little gap, so you're not gon na, have any too spiky hey. Thank you Christina, but, as I said, you know, this is something that hopefully khloe's gon na really like, because it's it's very organic and it's something now if you wanted to change the direction actually, when you say that you could go in this way and you could Take that front layer away like that, but I'm still going in here and just gently going through I'm just slicing out that weight and now the same in the back. It'S a little heavy here. So let's follow that teardrop around and we can see here and now, just believing from here and then slice that over so really a combination of two simple techniques, the kind of low skimming we have razor and were you calling the slicing a chattering, yeah yeah, like Almost like channel coding, you know so that, basically the scissor is doing one thing where it's just reducing that waste and it's still keeping it nice and organic. And and yes, the blade has basically taken away length and it's also softened the perimeter, because the skin was actually quite short. You know this game wasn't an elongated skin, but what we don't want to have is a pageboy. You know we don't want to have something that looks too bulky and too heavy and if it sticks out here, I'm all forests. Let me tell you, I don't want the hair to be too square to round to bulbous. So it's a case of just going in and just taking out a little bit of that waste, so it sort of fits the head a little bit more. I'M fitting the head and, as I said, cutting to shape is to me it's so it's so organic in its way because you're just watching it all the time - and you can see now it's starting to fit her head and that's the cool thing about using scissor Or sometimes putting in the natural fall, I'm not always putting hair in the natural fall, but for these type of haircuts I much prefer it. So again you can see the weights go on from here, but now we have this area here. So we just want to go in almost from the occipital bone and then just go in a little deep and you just pop the head of thank you and then you can just go in here and just reduce that as well. So your tribe, from around the world, giving you lots of love her mom is still here I mean or lame, is excited about your combination of techniques yeah. Thank you. Mc is watching Randy MC race, oh she's, probably making sure it works all right. I always say how did Randy get MC everybody's question my good buddy leek lobster this year I connected with these a great razor cutter as well. So do you want to tell them what we're going to do when this Kovac thing is over? Well, we've been talking about it for a while, you have to really do it. So yes, so I got a present from a company and I can't remember the name of the company, but it's such a beautiful blade and I will post it and it's an open blade with a black bone and it's it looks amazing. But it scares the life out of me, so Randy or not Randy Gerard was doing a haircut early or late last week and I watched him and how he pushes the blade away. So it doesn't, you know, hit the person or put his hands and I've never used one before so. When he said to me, look you know we could do a jam session, I'm like all over it, so I can't wait to know how to use it in the right form. We could do some type of an evening where it's you know creative really. Have you never stop learning and I just the way people look at hair. You know it's been so interesting and I mean I've watched. I don't. I can't know how many haircuts I've watched, yeah, yeah, absolutely people here in so many different ways. It was incredible and you know I mean to see the industry come together as well. It was pretty incredible. You know that was just unbelievable yeah. It'S a great question. You know what it's very visual and you can see. I just got Chloe's hair a second ago and just put my hands through, and I just shook it out, so it's usually very much fun feel and then visually looking at the past. Looking at you know how the hair is sitting, just you know, I'm just basically being a hairdresser like just don't hesitate to stop step back. You'Ll know when the hair starts to move in itself, then you'll start to get like you know, cool shapes. You know when you're cutting you're just like a geometric shape a square, so I really like that there, so I'm not going to go any more. I mean I just like that. I want to give a shout out to some way, so I think I'm done so. I'M just literally just going through taking off that little corner. You know so I'm just sort of softening it out by just doing a sort of a deep point. But it's not anything. You know perfect, but I'm just gon na check everything. True, just pull it out again, it was just yet yeah just and even when we went in deep it, there was still a little bit too much length. So it felt a little boxy to me so now by taking that in you can see it's a little bit softer, so it just sort of it helps it from not. Looking member we mentioned about that pageboy, we don't want a page where he wants something. That'S just basically really natural, so no and III don't know whether that's just me my try and break things down to keep them as simple as possible, precision and the way it leaves the head. Maybe my dyslexia confuse that yeah. Well, whatever the reason is it works beautifully, as you can see here on Chloe's really super heating. So many great compliments beautiful such a cute cut. I appreciate this so much. I can do more washing more styles, that's coming from chat, but even if she doesn't this way, there's no, I can tell she's smiling okay, it's great or you could use a little bit of like something with a little bit of moisture into the hole like a Molding mud, like great images, put a little bit of building because she's gone under here and actually every week, so the molding would might just give it a little bit of direction for her and it's for the state moisturize as well, so it'll just sort of fall. So I mean something like that, but really the dark wasn't way to hair down there. So you get this nice sort of volume and movement. You know it's just nice, yeah