How To Do The Classic 180 Degree Layered Haircut

What'S up guys welcome to today's video on the video today we are going to be focusing on a back-to-basics haircut. This is a haircut yes from beauty school, it's the 180 degree haircut. The reason I wanted to go over this haircut today is, I really wanted to focus on fundamentals, and I also want to explain why these haircuts are important. So this is all part of a series that I'm putting together for FS Aeons, a man that is a free app available on iOS and Android. So if you guys haven't downloaded the app yet make sure you head on over to your local app store FSE on demand is a great tool for being able to just look up something to use in the salon. It'S straight education, there's not only me on there, but there's other artists as well that we have filmed in our studio. So so it's an amazing tool. Obviously an amazing price so go check it out guys all right, so we're gon na get started with the video. If you have any questions post them in the comments below here, we go what's up guys. Welcome to today's video on the video today, I'm gon na be focusing on a haircut straight out of hair school. Now this is a fundamental haircut called the 180 degree haircut. Basically, everything's gon na be lifted straight up from the head you'll notice. My sectioning was very basic, the basic four quadrants, so I go right down center back all the way down, and then I go at the division point from the high point of the head down to behind the ear, and then I start taking right in the very Front of the head, my sections straight up now, the key to this haircut and having success with the haircut, is to take very small fine sections about half an inch wide take about 70 percent of your old cut, like the cut that are the hair that you Just cut and then add in 30 % of new hair, that's going to make sure that you have a nice clean guideline and you're not over directing the hair too far away from where it lives. So you get a nice clean line as you lift up the hair and cut it, so you can see everything's coming straight up from the head not being over directed at all just straight up and out now, besides working on fundamentals. The reason I wanted to create this series of haircuts to really focus on you know. The back to basics is really just understanding the reasoning behind these haircuts. Now, it's not one that you're gon na go and you're gon na transfer it to all your guests or you're gon na be. This is your layering technique. This is how you're gon na layer, everybody's hair - that's not what it's all about! What this is about is being able to work. The fundamentals learn how to lay your hair and then you can transfer that into different things. So this is all straight up from the head, but then there's other techniques where you're gon na over direct the hair. But this is them in the most basic form, creating layers on the head shape, so another basic fundamental of haircutting is not cutting past. Your second knuckle now I want to discuss this because a lot of people think don't cut past. Your second knuckle, because you might cut yourself well just so you guys know. I have cut my first knuckle many many times, so it really has nothing to do with cutting your your knuckles. It has everything to do with tension. So when we talk about tension, why is tension important in a haircut? Well, if you don't have the same tension throughout your section, if the tip of your finger is holding the hair tighter than the inside of your finger, then that the hair on the inside your finger is gon na be loose and when it's loose, it's kind of Pulled out and then, when you cut your line, you don't get your nice hard line. So a lot of people think I need to hold the hair tight. I need to comb it tight all of these things. Well, when you do that, you're pulling the hair where it wants to naturally live so honestly, lighter tension on most hair types is kind of the way to go throughout in most haircutting is just saying in general right, but there are times where you need tighter tension. There'S times where you need even less tension like when you're working around a cowlick area, you want to really be light on the tension, because you don't want to pull the hair too far from where it wants to naturally fall. So those are kind of key things. So just really focus on that tension. Don'T worry about the second knuckle thing, so much just understand that your tension is going to be different past. Your second knuckle in most cases, so you can see my body position has not changed within this haircut. So I'm staying in the back of the head, I'm combing the hair away from my body. So that's another key thing to focus on is: how do you comb the hair? What separates a good hairdresser and a great hairdresser is how well they comb? It'S not. How well they cut it's where they comb the hair to to cut it off right, so anything you do with the hair. Any shift that you make with your section is going to change the outcome of your haircut either for the good or the bad right. So just understand every move you make and why it's doing what it's doing so notice. My last comb is away from my body because I'm pushing that new hair to the guide. I want it to live right at the guideline. I don't want to move my guide to the new section because that'll make my guide shorter, okay, so just finishing up notice, still consistent with the combing making sure I'm pushing the hair, something that's great, and one thing after making 700 videos for YouTube. You really get to watch yourself, cut, hair and watch every move that you make and kind of analyze. The way that you cut hair. I would highly recommend any of you guys out there, not necessarily that you have to put it out on YouTube and for the world to see but film yourself or have somebody film, you cutting hair so that you can take it back and and watch it and Kind of learn from it and really study what you do and the consistency that you do it, because that's gon na make you a better hair cutter in the end. Alright. So now we're continuing from the front to the back key thing here is just to stay vertical, so we cut vertically from the very front to the midpoint of the head, and now I'm going to start in the center back connect using a guide line from the Top of the head and connect that all the way through and work my way across the back of the head shape. Haircutting is three dimensional and we talked about that a lot really. What that means is that you're working horizontally and you're working vertically and you're working with the length right so horizontally, you're working with your shape and really just what that line is going to be. Are you following the head shape? Are you building corners? Are you pushing weight to the front? Are you pushing weight to the back, that's horizontal, then, when you will get vertical, that's how much weight you're leaving on the haircut? Is it a layered haircut? Is it a graduated haircut and then obviously you pick your length and that kind of makes up all the different aspects of what the haircut is all about right. So right now, I'm working vertically, which is working also on my elevation, but at the same time I'm building a line horizontally. So to try to help you guys, you know make that make sense. If I took any of this hair and I pull it up vertically or horizontally, I should see a perfect line, and that goes to show that the the shape that I was creating is precise. So just make sure you do your cross-checking. Make sure that you have a line both ways and you'll know that you did this haircut correct, so you can see still pushing the hair away from my body into that guideline. When I work on the opposite side, when I'm working on the left-hand side of the head, I will be pulling the hair towards my guide, but everything's still coming straight up from the head shape notice how I comb the hair, I am using the tight teeth of The comb at this point combing the hair away from myself, keeping my section nice and clean, because the worst thing you want to do is get tangled up in and lots of hair. So just keep your sections clean. Even if it takes you a little bit extra time, you can see that line that we're creating right there in the dry. Let'S semi dry, look of it now we're gon na blow a try, but just keep your sections clean as you work through the haircut. It may take a tiny bit longer to do that, but you're not gon na have to go back and make any Corrections, because you have it right. The first time now, I'm going with Paul Mitchell neuro, lift and we're gon na do a kind of an extra like a full-body blowout for this cut, because when I was in beauty school I learned with rollers, you did a 180 degree haircut. Then you did some Roller set and you got lots and lots of volume, so we're gon na kind of mimic that using our Paul Mitchell, Pro Tools, blow dryer and then also my ergo paddle brush and I'm gon na set the hair to get maximum volume. Again. The end style of this is not the point of this haircut. It is going to be a little bit dated because there's nothing modern about this technique, but all of these techniques can be used in the salon. You want to build volume, you do on the base. Blowout, I'm going through I'm keeping everything very symmetrical. This is a very basic round brush blow dry key things here, focus on truck and trailer method, which is basically really keeping that nozzle following the round brush and working my way over and over that section. What I say is like the stages of hair, goes from wet to damp to dry, to smooth right, so a lot of people will go right to dry and then they kind of leave it alone. You want to just do a couple extra passes over the hair. That'Ll get that shine in it because shiny hair doesn't come it's not just naturally shiny. What shiny hair is is a perfect cuticle laying down nice and soft and reflecting light. So you want to make sure that that cuticle is laying nice and smooth the way you do. That is adding that heat and just really smoothing it out. The other thing that I'm doing in this technique is i'm priy you're, not seeing it because I sped everything up, but I pre spray, the hair with protect from Paul Mitchell neuro and the reason I do that is because it's got a nice medium hold for one, Because I'm trying to get the shine, the smoothness and two it's gon na protect the hair from the heat because most damage comes from blow drying hair. So I do that then I go in with Paul Mitchell. Narrow finish really set the hair, let it all cool and then I start taking out the pins right. So we get our set. You can see the volume it's just crazy. Maximum volume looks even better on really long hair, but obviously these mannequins are only as long as they are so, but you could see the seamlessness of the layers which I really love and how that line creates on the top, so really cool layer cut. I hope you guys liked it. I hope you like going back taking this trip back to beauty school with me to go through this hair cut. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments. Thank you so much for watching I'll, see you on the next one.