Long Layered Haircut Tutorial | Perfect Creative Layers Cutting Techniques & Tips

Okay, so i'm going to get it started and i'll show you guys my first section so matthew's got pretty long, hair um. I work with a ton of long hair here at the salon and i absolutely love it. Somebody was asking me what my aesthetic and hair was the other day, and i didn't really know what the answer to that would be other than just like really cool really loose like lived-in hair, and i know that we talk about lived-in, organic hair all the time, But i always think that if you can have a style that you don't have to touch that's kind of my hair, though then you're good to go so anyway. Maggie'S hair is really long and it's really thick. So at first glance, whenever you see her hair - and you don't really realize how thick and dense it is until you get your hands in it and it expands a lot. So i think that spending a lot of time with longer hair and a lot of density and a lot of curl will only teach you as you go. I don't expect people that are just starting out to know exactly what to do with hair like this. The minute that they start, but i think that i've just spent so much time with this - that i'm not scared to layer into hair pretty severely so anyway. I'Ll show you this first section, so i've got a nice center parting here in the back, and i have lifted off just like this convex ish right. So i'm going to clean up this line. I think it's always good to cut a line twice and i am elevating off the round of the head right, so roundish layers, convex ish right so don't think in terms of um know what you absolutely and combine as you go ooh that was cool. Okay, i said it yeah okay anyway, so i'm into that. So i'm going to take it off here, so get rid of the majority of this section here and clip away whatever you're, not working with clip it away. That is how you're going to stay clean. That'S how you're going to stay consistent, although it becomes monotonous after a while. I know that people that have trained with me before are like. Why are you making me do all these steps, but eventually, as they come back around they're like dude, that helped so much? Well, you got to look at it this way. Also, i mean maggie's got a lot of hair, i'm watching you, it's not like. You have the largest hands in the world either. So the fact that you're controlling all that hair and i'm even looking at the actual tension how consistent it is in all that hair. It'S because you're using such clean sections. If you were not using clean sections, it would just be buckling like crazy and one thing. I think that people don't realize something that you do, that i've seen you do for years. That, i really think is amazing, is whenever becca combs the hair. She grabs the hair almost immediately from the root, so that doesn't have a chance to buckle. So that's very easy to do when you're dealing with short hair because there's not a whole lot of hair to let buckle. But when you start dealing with long hair, i see so many people, good hairdressers, make that mistake and letting the hair buckle and not having consistency. But you can see whenever she goes to section to actually do her cuts with her subsection. She grabs the hair close to the root. It'S something that really makes a huge difference in the consistency, as well as just the actual cleanliness of your sectioning, and i mean you can see she grabs it right away, pulls it up and that's completely. You know consistent up to her second knuckle: resections grabs the hair pulls up. I mean that's just using all of the techniques that you learn when you're cutting a graduated bob or around graduation, or something that people think of as very technical and classic and using those same tools when you're cutting long hair. And i mean she really does a great job of making. This look so easy when i know good and well from touching maggie's hair before it's not easy to control her hair and again like if you've trained with me before, and if you haven't then i'll dish out the same advice. You know uh start small. You know - and i i typically when i'm teaching we'll kind of maybe do a half section right, so maybe i'll start at the bottom and then cut this first and connect. But again i know what i know and i know how to control this much hair. So i'm not afraid to just go for it and go ahead and cut this much here and, like daniel just said, the roots are going to count just as much as you're in so, although i'm cutting a super clean line here at the ends, if i don't Have a consistent tension all the way through and these roots are buckling, then your line is going to have hills and valleys and then it's not going to do you any favors. Nor is it your client. So so i'm going to just interrupt you for a second. I just want to say hello to everybody. Logging on we've got hundreds of people that have logged on already. We'Ve got people from italy, poland, a few people from brazil. We'Ve got people from all over the globe which we love. Seeing that russia right now, we've got all over and i wanted a couple of people are asking this. So how did you determine your guide as far as your original station? Your original guide that you created okay, so the original section was just like this at the back, then we placed our comb here in the center and pulled straight up. So you, basically what you were doing is you found the outline as your guide at the angle that you wanted so when she elevated up to basically work off of the head shape, she took the the length of the hair and used that as the guide to Start and then work kind of a convex and then rounded off layering section through the top, and now we've got a lot of people logging on now, like a ton of people, logging on and we got people from new york louisiana. The uk. We got people from canada, new jersey, british columbia, pakistan, oklahoma, ireland, south africa, all over the world logging on um, that this is one of the things that i absolutely love about: the harebrained network and the harebrained family, and i always have to give a good shout Out to amy and gerard for always being so welcoming for us and having us do education every month. I absolutely love the fact that we get to do stuff here in atlanta and it gets to broadcast all across the world and we're able to meet people from around the world. People are always, you know, messaging me and becca, via instagram or through facebook, with any kind of questions, uh, also giving us opportunities for us to learn. It'S really a great experience, the whole hair brained family that we get, and so i want to say thank you to everybody, but we've got a bunch of people now from the u.s logging in from all the way from california to uh north carolina. We got people in again, more ireland, more russia, more uk um we've got them everywhere, romania, but we're really having a great a great showing for this um. So i guess that uh guide was uh answered because mark who asked about the guide originally says now. I can see that perfectly fine, thank you so yeah i mean, and you can see becca's working right off the round of the head, so it starts to round off, even though her original section is more of a convex shape, which, at the very beginning, we were Talking about the amount of hair that maggie has and she has natural texture to her hair, so it tends to expand so by working from the occipital bone down in that convex shape. It actually creates an internal concave which lets the hair collapse from the occipital bone down, because if you look at the round of the head, where it starts to almost turn into like a question mark that hair underneath, even though it's cut at a convex angle, it's Going to collapse, that's what's really nice with maggie's hair, because it'll keep it from expanding out in width, but allow her to have a little bit of volume. On top with the round layering going on, we've got people coming all around. We'Ve got lebanon. Northern ireland, canada, texas, slovenia, uh we've got the uk india we've got phoenix. Oh that's diane from phoenix diane palumbo one of my favorite people in the world. She actually was my beauty school teacher um like 25 years ago, and i love her more than anything. She'S retired, to arizona - and i can't say how much i love that woman, but as you can see in a very short order, i mean this - has only been about 10 minutes that becca cut half of this haircut and you can already see with all that hair. It'S taken out so much weight. It'S collapsed from the occipital bone down, but right where she's grabbing, it's got just a little bit of natural volume. This is a technique that i saw: um, brandon, dara who's, one of our great educators, here at van michael, do when god probably 22 years ago on curly hair, and i it stuck with me my entire career. This is actually one of my favorite techniques for people that want some interest to uh layered hair. Now, all of a sudden we're getting a couple of people logging in and commenting about how? Well, you cut hair becca they're, saying how they love your sharp sections, how they're flawless this is such a popular look right now. One gentleman said - and i will agree with him completely, especially because so many people over the last year have grown their hair and all of a sudden people are like. Oh no, i think i want to keep with long hair, but i'm bored that's very easy to hear in the salon nowadays - and this is pretty cool, because this gives you a little bit of movement. So, where are you going to go from saw what i was now i'm sitting here and i'm just encouraging a little bit of her texture just to kind of expand like it naturally? Would it's not stopping wet, so i'm letting it kind of air dry a little bit and i'm not worried about a consistent again. It'S one of those things where, like i usually hate when people are saying, feel it out. But if i know that my sections match all the way through with fluidity, then i'm not going to worry quite as much so also too. I know that you guys saw me layer into the perimeter also, which is like a golden rule where people are like. Don'T do that, i'm not afraid to do that because again, i know how this hair naturally expands it's going to take care of it. It'S not! It'S not going to look sparse at all. So while it's wet, we look a little shaggy, but we look really full through here. I'M also going to show you guys how to texturize into this to make it flow even more even better, so you don't have these shelves. So so you brought up a point that i've heard people say before that i think, is a little bit of a myth in hair. I think it's something that's really good to think about when you're dealing with hair when you first start working with hair to not cut into your outline with your layering um. I disagree that i think you should be able to do that absolutely, but i do understand how people realize that you can create holes. But if you look at what you've done with this outline here, obviously it rounds off because it's following the head shape and the hairline rounds up. But i can tell just by your pre-sectioning that you're obviously going to be having some over direction through this top and probably the outline will fall out in the front correct, so layering the outline in the back and layering. The outline in the front are two totally different things, and sometimes people take a rule and make it an absolute and that's something that i really like about the way that you teach in the fact that you are very systematic, you're, very clean, you're, very technical. But you aren't an absolute, i don't think you should ever be that person who says you can only do this and only do that. I think that you have to realize there's a time and place for everything you have to know how to once you get to a certain point. You can start to bend the rules or even break the rules well and also too you're here to appease her and for the last few months. I cannot layer into this girl's hair enough, like i just can't like. I can't it's every couple of weeks, she's like more more more more and i know her hair can handle it. So she's like a layering addict and she never was like when magne first started with us. It was long and it was all one length and i used to like - have visions of like wearing the crap out of her hair and now that i finally get to i'm not scared of her. I'M not scared of her texture and i'm not scared, because again i've worked with this hair so much and this kind of hair. So much that i know what it's going to do, and so, even if i were to elevate all of this like and her hairline kind of recedes through here, i'm not scared like i could i didn't. I could pick up all of this because of the natural expansion of her hair and i could layer that bit too, but i'm not going to i'm going to hang on to that length. Okay, but i just think that the people that say, oh no, you shouldn't - or no you can't - that's not true - it's individual to individual and you're here to customize things to accommodate them, you're here to make them happy, always yeah the thing that also strikes me about What you're talking about like with maggie i mean i've, seen you cutting maggie's hair now for a while, and it's amazing the transformation i've seen in her personality, as you have done more stuff yeah, just your through her style when her hair was all long and one Length with maybe just like an inch of layering at the bottom, she seemed so much more reserved almost like hidden behind her hair and now you know you see her walk through the salon. You'Re, like wow she's, really like strutting her stuff now, and i do truly believe it's becau, not only because of the haircut, but that is a big part to do with people. You know when you give them a little bit of something different, they feel different. That'S the whole purpose of our career, like you're, saying like it's an attitude always i i know that people are always like. I'M gon na cut this to accommodate the face, shape the body structure, but this that, whatever i cut her hair to encourage to encourage a little bit more pizzazz to encourage a little bit more style. And i think it really does take that kind of encouragement from you, as the stylist in order really bring out their full potential in that way. So for me personally, i have started asking my clients, which i used to feel so scared to do. But now i just do it like when they're like yeah, i guess just i mean what do you think and i'm always like well, we could do whatever you want. Do you want an opinion and if they're like yeah, i want an opinion. Then that's when we'll go through pictures and that's when we'll start we'll start looking at something new. I can't tell you how many times as of recently i've had people come in and i just feel their energy they're like yeah, that's yeah a little just trim it. I'M like do you want to change. You want to change something and they're like yeah, oh my god, yeah, and then we do it. You know, but i think really just taking that time, to ask and to study them and getting to know them really helps and then the next time you see them. Whenever you change them, they change they change everything. So you can already start to see all of this confidence because we are hair doctors. This is one of the comments i'm seeing right now, that's a good one yeah. So a couple of people have asked if you've changed the angle yeah, what happened was as we transitioned through once we got to the top of the head. Basically, right at the crown, becca switched from being just pivoting sections to all of a sudden becoming more of a diagonal moving forward, a triangular section in which she's over directing back just a bit as well as now she's. Taking that shortest piece and she's cutting a little bit flatter it's not quite as round and convex as it was in the back. So now it's still slightly rounded, but it's a little bit higher elevation. But that's also because she's getting a little more length due over due to over direction, which is keeping some of that outline, while really removing a lot of this bulk through the sides. I mean these hairs here that are hitting up through. Here were all the way down here when she started, so you can actually see on the floor. She'S not been scared in the slightest to take some hair off. I never scared. I ain't, never scared! That'S the paulding counting coming out in you represent y'all um yeah so anyway, just continuing on i'm letting this outline drop out again because the hairline changes it's lower here in the back than it is on the side. So you could potentially have a hole in the sides if you were to layer all into all of that hair, also something that daniel showed me a long time ago. A good indicator of whether or not something is going to show through and peek through is, and if you want to know how much hair you can layer into. I do this with short hair. I do this with all i'll kind of let that hair fall over. My hand and i'll see how it looks. Can you see through it and if you can, maybe you shouldn't layer into it, but again with maggie's texture and expansion within the hair? I know i can, but the that case is not always true with all hair textures right, so taking that time to really maybe just section out a little bit, let that fall over your hand. Can you see through the hair? Can you see the hand right and if you can maybe don't layer that much into it, maybe just move up and maybe take another section out again, do it again yeah? I i think you that's such an accurate statement. The big thing about that that i take away from it also is what you're saying is look. This is not a cookie cutter haircut this this layering, even though you're being given a diagram or a blueprint of what you're going to do, you're changing it for her hair you're, changing it for the client, which really takes the difference between like say like if you're Talking about fashion, just you know, clothing off the rack versus you know: tailor-made clothing, something that is tailor-made for someone's hair, is going to look so much better than if it's just been bought off of the rack. Absolutely how long does it take to make a rolls royce? I don't know but way longer than it takes me way longer than it takes you to do a haircut. That'S for sure, okay, i think it's like three months or something, but it's probably like nine, but i work next to becca now and i feel like i'm in a race now to get done with each client. He doesn't win. No, i get to talking so do i and then my clients are waiting? Okay, okay, all right! That looks awesome. So now what i'm going to do, because i just want to see so i like how all of this is falling, but maybe i can collapse just a little bit more away if i were to go back through here on the top and maybe cut off that Brownness, so i'm going to take a section that first section that was on my left side and combine it with that. First section that was on my right side and just take a look and see if i want to square this out or not, and this is really also helping you check - balance through yeah. So you see that we're perfect. That'S exactly what you want to see most especially the convex ish layer right so, but i'm gon na take off. I'M gon na swear it out again. All of this knowing and me going through and doing this and customizing. This all comes with time and studying your craft and if you take the time to kind of hang out with us here at vm, michael haircutters you're going to see that yes, we all went through the same program. We all went through the same kind of learning, but we all implement it and combine it and create differently, which makes us, i think so unique and really cool, so something that you, i think people need to realize also is yes, she's squaring that off on the Top but she didn't just pull the hair up and cut it straight across the top, because she used a convex through these sides and then rounded at the parietal ridge and then squared the top that hair can move. If you just cut the hair straight across the top and let everything fall out, it's very rare that the hair is going to be allowed to move without creating lines, weight lines and just and sometimes divots in the hair, especially when you start dealing with thicker hair. Like maggie's, and if you were to do that with somebody who had thinner hair, you would end up with lines and sometimes holes that are gone because the hair is not thick enough. But in this situation, because you did that convex into a round into a flat layer through the top you're, giving a lot more versatility to the hair, it can move, which i think is extremely important in this day and age. Because i'm sure i know you mentioned like you, don't want to really have to have your hands on your hair all the time, but if she does want to run her fingers through her hair, if it is blown out straight, does she is she able to let It move, or is it going to look like it's a bit off, so that's something that i actually talk about with clients all the time and we laugh about it a lot. You know i always say that, like my favorite thing in hair is whenever it moves. Like if it's not moving, i don't feel like it's natural. I don't feel like it's like where it should be. You know and something and if you stand next to me or come hang out with me in the salon i like i said i do this all day. If not this then a short variation of creating movement within hair, i flat iron curl a lot. I diffuse a ton i am in curly hair like dude. I love it so much and i always tell people you can put your hands in your hair. You can touch your hair if you can't touch your hair, i don't know what you're doing. I don't know why you're wearing it, you should be able to touch your hair, because i am a person that likes to do a lot of this. A lot of this like and if i can't do that, then i don't have the right style for me. So, okay, moving on, i don't ever get to do that with my hair. So maggie has given me permission to take these little babies a little bit shorter. So i am now going to wet her back down. Sorry uh! It'S a rainy day here in atlanta, and i was driving here and apparently there was a tornado in our neighborhood and we had our buckhead location who's in class right now. They all had to shelter in the shampoo rooms, and so as we were walking in it was rainy and maggie told me that her eyebrow was wet, and so now i feel bad because i just wet her whole face so, okay cool. So now i've got this triangular section right here, i'm not going to worry about. If it's, where the comb leaves the head, i got lucky, it just so happens to be, but i'm not going to worry about that because i am going to layer to you know right about here: yeah you're you're going a significant way back. I guess it looks like you're, probably using a bit of the like the curvature of her front. Hairline is almost your guide there, where it's start where it's going to work towards so now, instead of classic long graduation, i'm going to cut the hair where it lives. So this hair would typically live right about over here yeah. I hear you say that a lot there's a there's, a handful of our educators that love to use that terminology, and i think it's very it's very easy to understand. I'Ve always used the term natural fall and people are like what are you talking about, but then, when you say like i'm going to cut the hair where it lives where it just goes to on its own, that makes perfect sense and people. I think people get that more and my tension is not. I was actually talking to a good friend of mine who's, a hair cutter who we just who just did a hair brand a couple weeks ago and i was cutting his hair and i was like pulling on him and he was like dude. Why do you use so much tension all of the time you don't have to and it's true, because if you pull really really taut really really tight, sometimes whenever it goes to bounce back and live where it's supposed to, you might have heels and valleys when the Hair and it might look uneven and it might not fall the way it should. So, although i am going to hold it in my hands, i'm not going to yank her scalp off right. So it's funny what you're mentioning is something that i learned a lot about once i got into razor cutting yeah once i got into razor kind of eating, i realized how much of elasticity hair has, especially when it's wet versus dry and how it will jump drastically, Because of the amount of tension that you have so i really think that, for myself very frequently, i will use tension as the dynamic that i use to create graduation or layering, and i will alter my tension but know why and how i'm doing that right. So now, as you can see, i'm no longer cutting really really clean lines. I am moving my fingers down slowly and i am just chipping away here. So what that's going to do is it's going to give me a lot of softness through here we're going to have short pieces so when she throws her hair up it'll be super cute right there too, and we're going to leave it disconnected. So i'm going to right here at the top of the ear and stopping so we're going to have a bit of disconnection within the haircut. It'S going to look really cool, so our boss van told me something that he learned when back in like 1974, that he he was told. Once you see the your client smile stop cutting, but i was gon na say you wouldn't have you wouldn't have done very much because maggie seems to be smiling through this entire haircut, the whole time, okay, so um. This is where people get confused so like. If you show them this right here, there's typically a recession within the hairline. We all have it and when you go to connect these two kind of the way that i'm doing it gets tough, because this falls out and then you're like oh crap, is that where i'm supposed to cut - and yes it is so don't second-guess yourself - trust yourself And if you need to adjust here at the end, just to check and make sure you totally can so i know that i need to stop right there, i'm gon na look at where i need to go. Let'S go right about here again like if i need to fix it at the end, i'll totally fix it. I trust what i what i know so just watch out for that. You know and don't freak yourself out everybody. It happens to everyone, and so now you can see the more hair i grab. That gap is filled right. So again, my finger angle is significantly different over here, because i need to be able to slide down the same in the same manner that i was able to just second ago there we go stop readjust and, like i said last time, paying attention to what i'm Doing i'm stopping here at the top of the ear right so right here, just right there, okay, again that gap's going to be filled even more, so it's going to be even easier, this time cool all right! So, okay! So i'm stoked! I love how this is falling. I love what it's doing already and we've talked about it. We want to diffuse it. We want to see how it looks while it's curly, and that was one of her first concerns when we initially went to go layer into her hair, was that she wanted to start being able to wear it curly and enjoy the shape and be able to not Do a whole lot so again with me: diffusing hair a lot i'm going to do it the right way we're going to let her back down at the shampoo bowl and then i'm going to show you guys how i prepare the hair before defuse so follow me. Let'S do this really quick? This is going to take the longest part, so yeah. So ashley just asked about the angle that you stood from behind yeah the best thing that the easiest way to explain that what she was doing is because, on the on maggie's left side or the right side, looking at her, the her becca's right handed in her Finger angle to create that concave line she if she stood in front, she would need to basically flip her wrists around and cut from the bottom up, and she was using that top as her guide. So what she ended up doing was actually standing from behind and using the top of her knuckles. So literally, all becca just did was yeah swear down because she's going to diffuse this, but here's a big thing that people forget about you know when you are diffusing. Hair, you want the hairs curl to be consistent, so a couple of things you want the product in the hair to be consistent, you want the moisture in the hair to be consistent. You want the hold to be consistent. You want everything consistent, so if you wet them down back at the shampoo bowl, you know that they are going to be consistently damp because the hair is going to be extremely wet from instead of just using a you know, just using a spray bottle. So this is a little trick that working next to becca. I hear her talk about all the time, so becca you're not using any kind of a leave-in or anything you're, using real conditioner right yeah and to all the clients or clients that are watching. Please know that there is, whenever i talk about, why i do this. This is just to help because we all sell retail in this industry, and this is the only reason i do it. But i will say this: if you work for a beta, you know that our shampoos and conditioners have a price tag on them and with the price tag. That means that you uh do even better come your next paycheck right. So i always encourage a lot of my curly clients to leave conditioner in their hair and whenever i ask a lot of my people, what they're, using at home they're like pantene, okay, how's, that working for you, i highly recommend how asking why and how does that Work for you because then they tell you and then you're like well, okay. This is what i notice about your curl pattern, and then you show them this trick and then they're like, oh, my god, it's conditioner, i can use it as conditioner and i can use it as leave-in and it's a big thing. I think smooth infusion retails for what like 100 and something right, yeah just over 100 for a large bottle, but if you think about it, they're all conditioners to a degree leave-in conditioners, conditioner whatever. But i just think that the more curl within the hair, the more moisture you're going to need this, especially when there's bleach involved maggie, has bleached hair and although it's not over processed, it's still processed. So i want there to be as much moisture as there can be, and this specific conditioner is perfect for summertime, because it is all about frizz reduction, so it's smooth infusion. I love that entire line this especially for this time of year, so you can see the hair and how wet it is. We put maybe three pumps of conditioner and i know people are like. Oh my god like no, like that's gon na make the hair look. So oily, no, it's not her hair's gon na soak it right up - and i learned this trick i'll - give credit to mario from zagat. I watched him cut a beautiful curly shape and dude. I swear to god. He used like half a liter of conditioner in that girl's hair and i was tripping the whole time. I was like oh how's that not gon na look like really oily and sure enough. It was some of the most beautiful curly hair that i've seen cut. So i take that - and i tell you use conditioner, encourage your clients to use conditioner it'll help your pocket and it'll help their hair. I think something that you should probably mention right now is what you're doing that. I think is really great the way that you're twisting the hair, but each time you get a section horizontally, you're, not creating just a straight line, you're doing a little bit of a weave with your finger to do your sectioning. Well and again. If i want the hair to look lived in, if i want it to look loose, if i want it to expand the way that i know that i will i'm not going to go crazy and make it super perfect, because i don't want her hair to be Super perfect so again gauging all of the things that i'm saying now come with time and be patient with yourself and really take the time to study textures and to really feel people's hair. Maggie has no consistent curl all throughout, like it is all different kinds of curls throughout which is really cool, and i like to bring that out. So that's why we're not going crazy, perfect section here! Well, i'll, tell you what you're moving through that pretty quickly. You know twisting a head of hair in two minutes, so i just recently took on one of the bigger challenges in the salon that i ever i never thought i would end up doing. I now work off of the 30 minutes. I see somebody every 30 minutes in the salon on saturdays and i see about 16 people every saturday and i have an assistant who's amazing, who not only keeps me on time but keeps my brain from imploding. So the reason that i did that was because i do move quickly, and i do want to tell you guys that there was a time where the greats before me every single one of them. I would stand next to them and they would take a really long time on their haircuts and i always appreciated it. So much and i was like well maybe i need to cut hair like that. But then, as i moved forward and through my career, i was like dude i'm fast and it doesn't make me any less methodical doesn't make me any less precise. It doesn't make me any less. It just means that i move just a little quicker and dude. I really really enjoy it. If i'm going to be at work, i might as well be get my butt beat. You know, but that's me, everybody has their own thing. Everybody has their own way. Well, you know me, i i i believe, if you're not working your butt off you're, not working okay, so you've twisted the whole head, it looks like you did about. You did about like three panels or three sections or tears whatever you want to call it on. Each side you weaved your fingers through, so that there was no uh hard line so that'll, let the hair kind of just diffuse in together, even better and then now you're taking a diffuser. So now you're taking a break. Let me get you a cigarette and coffee. Okay, so maggie uh. This is what you're gon na do with your clients. If you want it done right, you're gon na have them sink down if they have neck or back problems. Obviously don't don't let them do that, but we're gon na have her. Let'S sink down and she's gon na take a nap now so, okay, so i am for the bottom half of her hair, at least i'm gon na put it on high heat high speed. Because again i know how her hair reacts. I know how it works. It'S gon na be fine, we're not gon na blow it all over the place. It'Ll be all right, so we're knocking out a lot of this water. Okay, also too a tip and something that you're going to watch me. Do i'm not going to put my hands in the hair? The diffuser is going to do the work for me and those of you at home who diffuse your own hair need to do the same. The more of this that you do, the more frizz you're going to create and the lesson you're going to screw the curl up. That'S all. I heard somebody once used the term that, when you're diffusing hair, you need to treat it like your grandmother's finest china. You want to be very gentle with it, try not to touch it, try not to grab it, just be very gentle with it, so it can take its form on its own is and she came in, and so, if you're sitting down like, i am right now. You know just do it right, let me know, take care of your client throughout the service. The futures get really hot most, especially if you guys work with a diaphragm hair dryer. Those chickens just get glory to be hot. So if you work with those in particular, make sure think about what makes your price that much more worth it. So you know like whenever you think about how much you start behind what is you charge even more money? Because if you think it's just your haircutting skill and your hair, i'm zooming in a little bit here, you can really see that curl is starting to take form. The one thing that looks really nice about this is: i do know that maggie has a ton of hair, but that twisting technique that you had has really tamed it quite a bit. It'S actually kind of compressed it in because you know it's going to expand just because something looks a little wild and crazy doesn't mean that there's not methodology behind it. You know, there's a method to your madness. So the only time i'm touching the hair is to control it and put it in the diffuser and to kind of contain it, because, although it is a diffuser, you can see it blowing up this hair right here, which means it'll blow up here through here, and That encourages frizz, so the only time i'm going to touch the hair again is just to kind of contain it. I'M not scrunching it. I don't need to the diffuser is doing it for me. So diffusing is simulating air drying, so we're encouraging natural texture. We'Re probably going to get a little bit more lift and a lot more curl because of the diffuser than we would with air drying. But that's because i think keith is involved and also too because of the way that her head is right. Now it's really starting to come together. Are you okay? Another time that you will see me touch your hair is a lot of uniformity whenever we were going through and twisting. As you see like, we have like these things, bunching up we're going to scratch her root, which is going to stimulate blood flow here at the scalp, and it's going to push up and give her that much more volume and body. But we're going to wait until we've got the majority of this actual hair dry, but that will be another time that you see me guess that goes back to the no absolutisms somebody just said: omg love it. It is it's really looking beautiful i'll, tell you what this is something that i'm watching right now that i want to mention is so becca cut these short uh. Let'S call it framing almost curtain bangs, whatever you want to give the terminology for around the front, but a lot of times those hairs, especially when you curl or diffuse it end up falling right in the face. But i'm looking at you diffusing those away from the face, the way that you are right now, and i know that this is going to end up laying really nice, basically accenting off of maggie's cheekbones. That'S just it. You know like whenever i used to like have the visions that i did for maggie's hair, because i'm telling you dude when she first started. It was so wrong. It was all in life - and i just remember thinking like dude like we got to show off that face. I don't want to put all her hair up, but i want to show off her face now: she's beautiful and now we have opened her up so much. We'Ve given her so much distribution of pearl for over here, because that's the part that i wanted to mention earlier. That i completely thought was that when you have hair like maggies - and it has so much natural pearl and natural texture, should it all be one length because of the weight of everything it's going to pull all of that curl down to the bottom and a lot Of complaints that i hear with a lot of clients aren't man. I want to wear my hair curly, but it's straight up here and that's curly down here and then i'll give them jump jet and then they're like yo. Oh, my god, like it's everywhere, the curls everywhere. So, yes, you got ta. Remove that weight. Okay, yeah somebody says that they do this very often, but not with conditioner, and can't wait to try it um. I am just shocked at how well her hair is coming together. I mean when you look at that, with the fact that all she has is conditioner in the hair. I mean she just used the same conditioner she conditioned with before cutting, but i think the biggest thing is this becca has been unbelievably methodical in cutting this haircut, but she has been just as methodical in diffusing the hair and she has been really patient. I know so many hairdressers who would have stopped defusing five minutes ago and definitely wouldn't have been scratching the scalp at this point. Now it's really coming together and just looks so pretty i mean this is that lived-in beachy? Look that people like just want to kill for and really you're knocking this out in no time. Okay. So now just really quick, so i'm gon na just turn this off for just a second, so you guys can really hear me. So you see how curly it is so now i want to make it look just a little bit more modern, so i'm going to use my diffuser and i'm going to point it in the direction in which i want kind of these ends to go. So a lot of times well, my hair is a prime example. I love my natural texture, however, like that more modernized kind of look does include me using an iron just on my ends and often times i don't really have to. If i take the time to kind of pull on the hair yeah, it's almost like a twisting pulling motion and people can do that at home, also very easily yeah. Getting the somebody made a comment said you're getting that beach wave comes from the scalp manipulation. I totally agree, but that is just something that people don't do they don't take that extra time to you know, work the scalp work through the ends, a lot of people, just let the hair just walk out the door wet. I feel like i want to do school here. I want to make people look cool, you know, and so i'm like well. Okay, maybe i need to study, but just a little bit more as you can a little bit you're getting a lot of likes and hearts right now now that it's coming together! Well, it's looking pretty amazing. Now i'm touching that pearl encouraging a little bit more of that expansion. We just got ta obsess with you both and i think they're talking about you, two not me what product does she use with her? This is only conditioner, that's what uh becky becca was talking about earlier was that she actually just took the same conditioner. It'S aveda, smooth, infusion, conditioner took a few pumps of it, put it through the hair, extremely wet when she started before she started diffusing, and then she took three uh horizontal rows in which she weaved with her finger, just very inconsistent lines and twisted the hair um. How much do you take for this? I'M thinking somebody's asking uh, how much time you would you take for this? This would probably this took her about 40 minutes to do so. You know this is something you could definitely booking on the half hour 45 minutes and be able to do this without a problem and um. How much would she charge for this? This would be about a 100 haircut from becca, okay, so real, quick um, you see all this. It'S awesome, that's great, like i'm not going to touch it and that that looks sick, but just like any other haircut just like anything, i do i'm always going to have some imperfections, something i don't like. So this is me, showing you and being honest with you, and just you know, making sure that you guys do the same thing to take the time, to really turn your to back up away from your people to turn them around. Do whatever you want to really see something that you know really study what you just did really look at what you do, and there are a few things that i don't really love and this again comes with time and training your eye and also two developing tastes. So there's something right here i agree. Yeah i mean. Maybe this is a little heavy and then i'm going to clean up that perimeter and yes, i'm going to clean it up curly because again, i know her hair texture and i know that i can so really quick you're, not club cutting it you're kind of pointing It out just leaving it soft and textured. Sometimes you got ta get on the ground. You know on the eye level, i see everything right in front of me, a tip that i have for people whenever you're working with a perimeter and working on cleaning up a perimeter is when you feel your eyes start to move, which means like if i'm here And i need to move over here when you feel your eyes start to move. That'S when you know your body needs to move, i'm stagnant and i'm in one place right now, because i had one little bit of hair that i needed to cut off. If i had this whole bit right here with all of her hair to clean up that perimeter, then i would be standing up right now. She would probably be standing up right now. I just had like a little tail that i wanted to get rid of so so this sometimes the hair and the way it curls is inconsistent on one side more so than it is on the other. So i'm going to take very, very light and maybe split that into i'm going to take very light tension in between my fingers, that's more uncomfortable than this so turn my fingers over i'm going to get rid of some weight just like this slice through here. Come it out, oh yeah, that that did wonders yeah and now this yeah see how much better so much better again. This takes time in developing, like i just said, taste, training your eye and taking the time to really analyze your work and appreciate your work and what it looks like and the outcome. Oh yeah, oh my god. Okay - maybe this one and now this is the only thing left that i don't love so splitting that into again that hair is going to live over here. So we're going to cut it over here, slicing down, starting from the middle of the hair, shaft and working our way down. That looks great now now that i've looked at the back, i need to look at everything dude. It makes her look like she's got so much more hair, so something i want to do really quick. I don't love that it kind of looks like just floppy on her, so i want to make it look a little bit more modern. Sorry, i just got ta. Do it because maggie's not gon na wear her hair with her cowlick sticking up like that anyway, so i'm gon na do what i personally think i do best better than cutting hair even fluttering again. So this is something that you can also show your clients without speaking and without all this. This will take me 45 minutes, so i show my clients how to flat iron curl, maybe this very thin top layer because, as you can see, everything else, curls so pretty, and i struggle with this part of my hair too. You can see like there's not as much uniformity or prettiness in this section of her hair. Same stands. True with me, mine even fell out today. Thank you rain, so i show them flat iron curls, because first of all it looks cooler. Second of all, it's different everybody's using a curling iron right now be the one who doesn't so i place turn backward one time and pull down, and then i always tell my client. No, it's not gon na. Look that tight, we're gon na be all right place. Turn backward one time pull down place backward pull down. Then it looks like you're just breaking those apart with your fingers a little bit right and again, it just makes it look a little bit more yeah. It looks more uniformed on that side it flows together with the the curls that she has already exactly and if i don't like how curly it got, then i'll go through and iron out even more, and it just looks that much better to me. So, okay, now this little bit didn't curl as well as everything else did and again. This is what i feel like makes. Your service have added value because you just showed them how to wear their hair curly with a diffuser and how to do that at home and now you're showing them how to make it look like they've, fixed it too. So her whole head looks like it's been done like this, and it hasn't so it looks like you did what three four sections on the left side: yeah yeah, and do you know how special your clients feel whenever you curl their hair like they're, like stoked, you Know they're, like oh, my god, okay, that's awesome! A lot of my clients want me to curl their hair all the time and they won't ask me because they don't think i have enough time. Although i see as many people as i see a day, i still try to just breathe, even if i'm behind, if i'm behind, who i'm already behind, i don't care like i'll curl, your hair, you know yeah. The last thing someone wants to feel like is that they're being rushed out, don't charge them more. I already get paid enough for my haircut. You deserve curls, you came and saw me okay, so something that i like to do with my own hair is now kind of bring these forward over direct them forward, and now i'm going to rock that little baby bit right here. Let that heat sit on and then pull down and now protect them, don't burn them, and that gave her even more room. Yeah that looks great okay, cool and last little bit with scissors here dude it looks so good. Do you feel good? Okay, she's, like no? That'S all that matters all right. So again, a little bit of these tags light tension, just get them off come over here light tension, everybody's, mentioning great job, even bannon - is watching this right now light tension, traveling